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Tips for walking your dog

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Tips for walking your dog

Exercise is crucial for pets, but walks are also about more than just exercise.
 
Walks are essential for the well-being of canine companions and done correctly, with the right attitude, they can be very beneficial for us, as well. It is a commitment responsible pet parents make.

Walks are an opportunity for dogs to:

  • Relieve themselves.
  • Move their bodies.
  • Get fresh air.
  • Help with weight control.
  • Reduce anxiety, boredom and depression.
  • Interacting with their environment and “earthing”.
  • Socialize with other humans and dogs.
  • Strengthen their bond with you.

If you can’t do this daily (30-60 minutes) or walks are stressful for you or your pet, we suggest finding other ways to exercise and provide enrichment for them, like playing games in and around the home or by hiring a professional dog-walker.  AbsoluteDOGS has a game for everything!

Different kinds of walks (Dr Karen Becker)

  1. Purposeful walks — These are typically short and have a specific goal, for example, walking your dog to her potty spot.
  2. Training walks — These walks can be about improving leash manners and learning basic or advanced obedience commands. Remember to take some healthy training treats.
  3. Mentally stimulating walks — Most leashed dogs don’t get to spend nearly as much time sniffing and investigating as they would like, so allowing your pet some time to explore is good mental stimulation for her.
  4. Sniffaris — During these mentally stimulating walks, your dog takes the lead, you follow, and he gets to sniff whatever he pleases.
  5. Power walks — Power walks to keep your dog’s frame strong, his weight in check, and help alleviate arthritis and other degenerative joint diseases. These walks can also be an essential method for ensuring your dog gets enough exercise.
  6. Walks with friends — If your dog is comfortable around other dogs, consider meeting up with neighbours or friends with dogs for social group walks.
  7. Different dog-walker walks — Everyone walks a dog a little differently, so the more members of your household who walk your dog, the more variety she’ll enjoy.
  8. Change-of-scenery walks — Instead of heading outside in the same old direction, instead, buckle your dog in and drive a few blocks away or to a neighbourhood park or nearby hiking trail for your walk.

Common dog walking mistakes

  • Not allowing sniff time — Your dog’s most acute sense is her sense of smell. She explores and experiences the world through her nose.
  • Ignoring your dog or multi-tasking — Unfortunately, there are pet parents who do everything but, pay attention to their dogs during walks. The activity becomes so routine that they do it without giving much thought to the furry fellow at the other end of the leash. This is a bad habit primarily for the danger of what your dog can get up to if you are not looking.
  • Choosing the wrong type of collar, harness, or leash — Many pet parents don’t realize the importance of choosing the right type for their dog.
  • Not taking advantage of different types of walks, mentioned above, to keep things interesting for the both of you.

common dog walking mistakes

Safety first

  • Before the walk, test the road/tar/ground temperature. If you can’t keep the back of your hand on the ground for 5 seconds then it is too hot for their paws!
  • Discuss with your veterinarian when your puppy’s immune system is strong enough to go for walks.
  • Even if off-leash, always pack their harness and leash (no choke or pinch collars) and include an ID tag. They should be accustomed to wearing it before you attempt to take them for walks.
  • Watch out for dog snatchers who follow your walking routines as well as any other hazards.
  • Keep them hydrated and prevent them from drinking contaminated water.
  • Do not let young children or the elderly walk animals alone.
  • Pack a mini first aid kit.
  • Go at their pace.
  • Wear reflective gear.

Keep in mind

  • If you are having trouble with the walk, then get some professional help. This could be a trainer, if your pet just never learned to walk on a leash properly or a behaviourist if there are other underlying issues like anxiety or re-activity.
  • Although walking is a great activity, some breeds might not be getting enough exercise for cardiovascular health through just a walk. For others you might have to start slower for shorter distances.
  • When you do suburban walking, the other dogs barking, are not them “saying hello”, it is more like “death threats”. For re-active and anxious dogs this won’t be beneficial.
  • Be mindful of fellow walkers.  Never allow your dog to just approach another dog, even if they are friendly and especially not when that dog is on a leash because they might be fearful, re-active, aggressive, in pain or recovering from an operation.
  • When going for hikes, make sure your pet is up for it, you have enough water, the trail is dog-friendly and never let your dog chase any wildlife.

The most important thing you can do to ensure a lifetime of enjoyable walks with your canine companion is to help them learn to be the perfect walking partner and be one too.

By Ancois van Zyl

How to stop dogs from jumping up?

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dog

How to stop dogs from jumping up?

Jumping up enthusiastically is part of normal canine behaviour. It has its roots in puppy greeting behaviour which involves licking the muzzle of returning adults. For a weaned wolf puppy it is essential and normal to beg for food by jumping up and licking the adult’s mouth to stimulate it to regurgitate food. In adulthood and domestic dogs jumping up becomes a normal greeting and appeasement ritual. Dogs consider it a compliment – we consider it a nuisance, especially in adult dogs.

In all likelihood it is also a behaviour you have reinforced (rewarded) when your dog was still a puppy. Tail wagging, jumping puppies are just irresistible. How great must your dog’s confusion be when he grows up and suddenly you punish him for something that comes naturally to him and he was praised and cuddled for all along. He was never really taught not to jump on you, was he??

So, let’s teach Fluffy to stop jumping.

In a nutshell you have to make jumping up unrewarding and teach him an alternative way to greet you, which is rewarded.

While retraining your dog try to avoid the situations in which he normally jumps up. Use a leash or his collar to stop him from jumping on visitors and yourself. Alternatively ignore the jumping up and turn your back, don’t speak to him (no, not even to shout at him!!), don’t touch him. It is important that all family members stop to acknowledge the dog if he jumps.

Cool your greeting ritual. On returning home, walk past your dog, ignore him for a little while and then call him to greet him calmly. If he is not too hyper kneel down so he does not need to jump up.

Praise and greet only while all four paws are on the ground.

  • Teach an acceptable behaviour that is incompatible with jumping up like a sit or down stay (your choice).Get a nice treat, hold it in your hand but don’t give it to your dog. Don’t give any command; just patiently wait until your dog shows the behaviour you want. Praise and treat immediately.
  • Take a step away from your dog and repeat the process until Fluffy sits / downs reliably and immediately after each step you take. Don’t make your training sessions too long (5-10 min), rather practice a few times a day, as you can. Always stop on a high note and while your dog is still eager to work. Steadily increase the length of the sit before you give the treat.
  • Practice in different locations, especially close to the gate / doorways where your dog normally gets to greet you and your visitors. Slowly raise the stakes but only increase one criteria in each training session. So, if you decide to increase the time Fluffy needs to sit before he gets rewarded, do not change the location where you practice as well.Once your dog reliably sits or downs you can introduce a verbal cue or command.
  • When Fluffy’s sit stay has become fairly reliable it is time to practice with willing friends. Armed with treats ask them to ring the bell or come to the gate and only greet and reward Fluffy if all his paws are on the floor.
  • Teach your dog a “too bad” – a signal that informs him that he just lost a treat / his reward.  Once your dog understands this signal it can help you a lot to stop unwanted behaviours, as dogs learn quickly to abandon behaviour that does not pay.
  • Get your dog to sit. Hold a very tasty treat about 30 cm away from him on nose level. (His nose – not yours.) As soon as he moves towards the treat (and he will) simply say “Too bad!!” (or “No” or “AAH AAH” – or whatever word you want to use as your no reward signal) and snatch the treat away. Get him back into a sit and repeat. If your timing is good Fluffy will soon decide to change his strategy and offer another behaviour. If he stays and simply stares at the treat reward/ reinforce immediately.
  • Repeat the whole process several times to establish your “too bad” signal or practice sit-stays. To raise the stakes change your position, change the type of treat, put the treat on the floor (but make sure you can get to it first in case your dog makes a mistake) etc… Again, don’t make a training session too long and stop while Fluffy is still keen to go on.  Use these two steps consistently.  Praise and reward acceptable behaviour every time and inform your dog about his mistakes with your no reward signal as soon as he jumps up on you. In that case turn away and walk away and leave him for a minute or two.
  • Give your dog an appropriate outlet for all his energy.  Daily walks – off-leash if possible Play sessions with other friendly dogs.  Retrieve games.  Hide and seek.  Recall practice with 2-5 people.
  • Stand opposite each other or in a circle and take turns calling the dog. Reward enthusiastically when he comes to the right person.
    • Chase – Teach your dog that a certain cue e.g. “I am gonna catch you” will start the game of you chasing after him.
    • Tug-of-war – Played with rules tug-of-war is a great energy burner and good exercise for yourself and your dog. Please teach your dog the rules and stick to them.  The dog lets go of the tugging toy or rope immediately when told to.

dog

  • Give your command to let go and swop the toy with a nice treat.
  • Give your cue to retake the rope and start tugging again.
  • Practice these exchanges before your dog gets really excited with some slow-motion,calm tugging.
  • Once the dog releases the toy on command put the treats out of sight.
  • He only retakes the rope when invited to do so.
  • Get one specific toy for your tug-of-war and stick to that toy.
  • The game starts only with that toy and on your cue e.g. “Take the rope”.
  • Should Fluffy grab the toy uninvited, tell him “too bad” and interrupt the game for a short while before you start again.
  • Do not tolerate accidents
  • During the heat of the game dogs will sometimes make contact with your hand by mistake. Screech “OUCH!!!” and immediately stop the game. Fluffy is very capable of controlling his teeth and you can use this as a reminder to keep them off people at all times.
  • Other than that let Fluffy be as excited as he wants to. Let him tug, shake and growl to his heart’s content.
  • Tug-of-war makes a great reward during obedience exercises as well.

Should you encounter any problems or have any questions please contact:

  • Hermanus Animal Welfare Society : 028 312 1281
  • Janine (Trainer-Touch therapist-Puppy classes) – 082 490 1650
  • Naomi (animal communicator) – 083 226 3526

Source: Hermanus Animal Welfare

Aspects to consider if you have an existing dog and are considering adoption

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dog

Aspects to consider if you have an existing dog and are considering adoption

When you are adopting and have an existing dog, it really is helpful to ask yourself the questions below – this will give you a greater chance of a successful adoption. 

We need to bear in mind, that if the adoption does not work out, not only will you feel terrible about this, each and every time a dog is sent back to the shelter, there is more physiological damage and stress, and the chances of the dog being successful adopted in the future are reduced. 

Additionally, our responsibility is always to our existing dog, and he/she must be considered first and foremost. 

The following is not mentioning the costs and training involved, however, these are aspects you need to take into consideration as well. 

  • If your existing dog is NOT sociable with other dogs, then rather do not even attempt an adoption, especially if there is any aggression involved. You can always contact a qualified behaviourist to help your dog, however, a dog such as this can learn to cope with other dogs when out for walks, but the chances of it accepting another dog in the home are very low. 
  • Some dogs will be happy with other dogs when out for a walk, however will not accept another dog into their home – this is more relevant in some breeds rather than others.
  • If you have an existing dog which is of the fighting breeds, or a cross of same, these dogs do much better as only dogs – if you are not sure, then rather get the help of a qualified behaviourist to discuss the possible match. Here is a link to our Compatibility Chart which will give you more knowledge to make an educated decision.
  • If you are getting a dog because you feel your dog is lonely, do ensure that it is getting sufficient physical, mental and sociable stimulation first of all. If not, do not expect the dogs to entertain themselves – you could possible end up with ‘double trouble’.
  • If you are getting another dog due to one dog dying and the existing dog being lonely, rather work on helping it to cope and get over the grief, before considering another dog. Here is a link to an article to help a dog that is not coping after losing its friend.
  • If there are any behaviour problems occurring, even if not serious one’s, it is far better to resolve same before thinking about adopting, as dogs often mimic one another’s behaviour, and you could end up with two dogs exhibiting the unacceptable behaviour. A common problem that often occurs when a second dog is adopted is resource guarding – of food, toys and objects and food – contact a behaviourist to resolve first and foremost. This new knowledge will allow you to ensure that you can train the new dog to avoid problems where resource guarding is concerned as well.
  • Ensure that the dog to be adopted is both dog and people friendly to avoid problems.
  • Consider the sex of the dogs. Your ideal match is one female and one male. Two males can get on well together, however the breeds of each have to be taken into account. Your very worst match, and one to be avoided at all costs, is having 2 females. The chances of problems arising is very real, especially around the 8 – 24 month period.
  • Consider the exercise requirements of both dogs. You don’t want two high energy dogs together, neither do you want a couch potato and a very active dog. Consider also if you have both the time, and energy, to take 2 dogs for walks daily and also if you can control them.
  • Think about the grooming aspects – if you are already spending time grooming your existing dog often, then perhaps a breed that requires less daily brushing would be a better fit.
  • If the existing dog does have any behaviour concerns, even one as small as jumping up against people, you would have to do the work to change this behaviour. The majority of behaviour problems found in shelter dogs can be easily changed, however there is no magic wand to wave – you have to do the work involved, and there is always the possibility that your existing dog may mimic same.
  • Think also of the breed from a point of view of how easily they can be trained – some breed are much harder to train than other, and you need to make sure your dog skills are sufficient.
  • If you already have a young puppy, rather wait until it is about 6 to 7 months of age before bringing in another dog. This will allow you the time to really bond and train the behaviour you want – one dog is always easier to train than two at the same time. Additionally, if you do bring in another puppy close in age to your existing pup, they do tend to bond to one another more than to the owner. Additionally, one pup tends to become more confident and the other less so, and this can end up at extremes. 
    If your existing dog has any physical challenges, or is a Golden Oldie, do speak to your vet to get their opinion as to whether getting another dog is an option.

After you have chosen your new dog, do get your existing dog to meet same, and always on neutral territory – this reduces the possibility of any resource guarding in the home. In order to help you have a success when you do take the new dog home, here is a link to an article that gives you the step by step procedure to follow – Introducing and new dog to a resident dog