Posts

Does Lion Farming In South Africa Have A Positive Impact On The Conservation of African Wild Lion Populations?

lion

Does Lion Farming In South Africa Have A Positive Impact On The Conservation of African Wild Lion Populations?

South Africa’s commercial lion breeding industry does not benefit Africa’s iconic wild lions, according to new research by Blood Lions and World Animal Protection. 

This finding may have vital implications for the future of lion farming in South Africa – an industry that has been allowed to grow over the past three decades to around 350 captive facilities holding nearly 8,000 lions and thousands of other big cats for tourist entertainment and profit.

Researchers from Blood Lions and World Animal Protection reviewed 126 peer-reviewed articles and 37 public reports published between 2008-2023. Their analysis identified several red flags suggesting that lion farming may harm wild lion populations by accelerating – and potentially facilitating – commercial demand for lions and their body parts, including bones, claws and teeth.

The review also highlights key knowledge gaps that must be addressed to better understand the wider implications of the captive lion industry. Recommended areas for future research include: consumer preferences for lion products sourced from either captive or wild populations, supply and demand interactions relating to captive lion products, economic comparisons between farmed and wild lion products, the genetics and genetic health of captive lion populations, and the extent of illegal activity taking place between Africa and destination countries in Southeast Asia.

Currently, there is no scientific evidence to substantiate industry claims that commercial captive lion breeding protects wild lion populations. On the contrary, the findings suggest it may be driving demand with potentially damaging consequences for the species in the wild.

Contributing researcher and Director of Blood Lion Dr Louise de Waal said: “We need to err on the side of caution globally, but in particular in African lion range states, to stop facilitating the further emergence of commercial captive predator breeding and trade. This is particularly relevant when considering the increased wildlife trafficking opportunities between the African continent and Southeast Asia, fuelled in part by the expansion of the Belt and Road Initiative[1] – a global infrastructure development strategy by the Chinese government.

In May 2021, former Minister of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment, Barbara Creecy, initiated a process to ultimately close South Africa’s commercial captive lion industry with all its associated activities, such as cub petting, walking with lions, and “canned” or captive trophy hunting.

This decision followed the release of the High-Level Panel report, which found that, among others, the captive lion breeding industry damages South Africa’s eco-tourism and conservation reputations, lacks the necessary transformation, and is widely accused of animal welfare neglect and abuse.

In its 2018 Non-Detriment Finding Assessment for African lions, the Scientific Authority of South Africa concluded that exporting captive-bred lion trophies, live captive-bred lions for zoological or breeding purposes, and/or trading lion skeletons from the captive population did not negatively impact South Africa’s wild lion population. While wild lion populations in South Africa are currently considered stable, this new research shows that using captive breeding as a tool to meet the demand for lion commodities  may pose potentially detrimental effects on already vulnerable lion populations and other big cat species across other range states.

Dr Angie Elwin, contributing researcher and Head of Research at World Animal Protection added: “Our review finds no clear evidence that South Africa’s captive lion breeding industry benefits wild lion populations, and growing indications it could be doing harm by fuelling demand for lion parts. Given the precarious status of lions globally, any claims of conservation value should be treated with extreme caution. Lessons from tiger farming show that legal trade from captive animals has failed to protect wild populations and may even accelerate their decline. We risk repeating the same mistake with lions.

These new research findings are highly relevant for the current political process and should urge Minister Dr. Dion George (Department of  Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment) to take two critical next steps: first, to impose an immediate moratorium on the breeding of lions in captivity, and second, to develop a structured and timebound phase-out plan for the broader commercial predator industry.

[1] Hughes, A.C. Understanding and minimizing environmental impacts of the Belt and Road Initiative. Conserv. Biol. 201933, 883–894.

Find a PDF version of the full peer-reviewed research paper HERE.

Source: Blood Lions

Don’t let movement hibernate, here’s how to keep your dog active (and healthy) heading into winter

movement

Don’t let movement hibernate, here’s how to keep your dog active (and healthy) heading into winter

April might signal the start of cooler weather, but it’s also Active Dog Month, a timely reminder not to let the season put a pause on play. While you may be tempted to hunker down and embrace the indoors, your dog’s health doesn’t follow the weather report. Keeping them moving through the colder months is crucial, especially if they’re managing extra weight or joint stiffness.

According to Dr. Guy Fyvie, Senior Veterinary Affairs Manager at Hill’s Pet Nutrition, active living for dogs starts long before you clip on the leash.

“Nutrition plays a pivotal role in helping dogs maintain a healthy weight and supporting joint function,” he explains. “The right balance of nutrients can make exercise more comfortable and help dogs stay active for longer.”

New Hill’s Science Plan Perfect Weight & Active Mobility is formulated with both weight and movement in mind.  With research showing that more than half of household pets are overweight*, it’s clear we need to rethink what ‘healthy’ looks like. While daily walks and weekend hikes are vital, real change often starts in the bowl.

“This food was created with Hill’s unique understanding of the biology of overweight dogs,” says Dr. Fyvie. “It offers pet parents a smart, proactive way to manage their dog’s weight while helping them move more comfortably and stay active.”

Whether your dog’s exercise routine includes bounding through the park, gentle evening strolls, or weekend adventures, the goal is the same: to keep them moving in a way that supports their health, and your shared bond.

It doesn’t have to be all-or-nothing. Cold days might mean shorter outdoor bursts, but adding indoor games, or even a brisk hallway fetch session can go a long way in keeping your dog’s mind and muscles engaged.

At the end of the day, your dog isn’t thinking about calories, nutrients, or cartilage, all they want is to keep up with you. Active Dog Month is a reminder that movement, when supported by the right food, becomes a lifestyle, one filled with energy, exploration, and connection.

Visit Hill’s Pet Nutrition for more on Science Plan Perfect Weight & Active Mobility and how to support your pet’s health this winter.

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Helpful Tips for Walking Your Dog

Dog

Helpful Tips for Walking Your Dog

Before you got your pooch, you likely imagined walking a dog would be a wonderful experience of long relaxing strolls, exploring neighbourhoods and hiking trails. In those pre-dog fantasies, your four-legged sidekick likely trotted obediently by your side on a leash, following your every command and looking at you adoringly.

Then you got your dog and the fantasy disappeared. Why does my dog have to stop and pee on everything? Why does he have to stop and sniff every blade of grass? It can be frustrating, but don’t hang up the leash!

After all, walking a dog is important to their health and happiness. Walks keep your dog agile and limber and can help relieve issues like constipation, according to PetMD. Regular walks also help keep your dog from gaining unwanted kilos. Walking a dog can also go a long way toward reducing or eliminating destructive behaviour. Dogs who haven’t had enough exercise–who feel pent up or have extra energy–can turn to digging holes in your yard or chewing everything from your shoes to your couch cushions.

Walks with you also strengthen your bond with your pooch and give them a chance to meet and interact with other people and dogs in a controlled environment. Having a dog that is socialised is very important. Socialised dogs are typically happier and friendlier than unsocialised dogs, who can be anxious and fearful around new humans or animals.

And we haven’t even talked about how walking a dog impacts your health! A study from Michigan State University and reported by the New York Times found 60 percent of dog owners who took their pets for regular walks met the federal criteria for regular moderate or vigorous exercise, with almost half of dog walkers getting an average of 30 minutes of exercise a day at least five days a week. In comparison, only about 30 percent of people without dogs got that much regular exercise.

But what is with your pup’s strange habits on your walks? Let’s take a look at some weird (and annoying!) things dogs do on the leash, why they do them, and how you can work to reduce the issue.

Dog Peeing while Walking

Why your dog does it: Dogs are territorial, and urine is a natural way a dog can mark their territory. It communicates to other dogs that they have been there. Marking usually begins in puberty.

What to do: First, consult your vet. You want to make sure the fact that your dog stopping to relieve himself every few meters is, in fact, related to marking and not because of a health issue such as a bladder infection. If it’s a behavioural issue, you can train him to reduce his need to mark as much, but it might be impossible to get him to stop it all together. Also, dogs that have not been spayed or neutered have a larger tendency to mark territory than those that have.

Rolling in the Stink

Why your dog does it: When you encounter a dead animal, garbage, or anything else stinky, does your dog stop, drop, and roll? While it’s not known exactly why dogs have this disgusting habit, one train of thought is that it’s a trait inherited from wolves. They roll in the scent then take it back to their pack for further investigation.

Dog

What to do: Keep your pup leashed on walks (this is an important tip regardless of whether they like to roll in filth or not). Train them to recognise the command “leave it,” then reward with a treat when they do. Never pull hard on the leash to yank them away from the smelly object to avoid injuring your dog.

Pulling on the Leash

Why your dog does it: Because you’re moving too slow! Because you’re moving in the wrong direction! Because he wants to!

What to do: This behavioural issue can be fixed with proper training. Use treats and positive reinforcement to get your dog to follow your pace instead. If you have a dog that pulls, you can also try a head or body harness.. A harness may help keep your dog from pulling away from you while leashed while causing less stress on their neck or spine. Also, giving them less slack on the leash will help train them to stay close to you while walking. The more lead they have, the more they think that they have permission to explore the surrounding area causing them to pull on the leash.

Lying Down and Refusing to Move

Why your dog does it: They could be hurt, sick, or just plain tired.

What to do: Examine your dog. Are their paws rubbed raw? Is the cement too hot? Are they too hot? Let them rest and give them a drink. If that doesn’t work and there’s no obvious signs of injury, coax your buddy home with treats. Keep in mind your dog’s abilities and exercise needs before embarking. An English bulldog, for instance, will likely have much different walk expectations than a Labrador retriever. Never force walking. If they truly aren’t having it, come back and try again later. Forcing your pooch to walk when he doesn’t want to could lead to injury. If it becomes a chronic problem, consult your vet to see if there is a larger health issue of which you might not be aware.

Walking Back and Forth

Why your dog does it: A dog’s nose is much more powerful than yours. You can’t sniff all the exciting smells of other animals and humans that he does. He’s following scent trails when he’s zigging and zagging in front of you and probably not even noticing he’s tripping you.

What to do: Teach your dog to walk at a heel and on a certain side of your body. You can use verbal cues and treats to teach your dog how to walk nicely on a leash. However, a dog thoroughly enjoys sniffing so giving him an opportunity to do so when you’re both comfortable is a nice thing to do for your pup. Again, keeping the leash short and close to you will help reduce this behaviour and hopefully keep you from getting tripped up.

Biting the leash

Why your dog does it: Your dog is soooo excited that you’re taking them on a walk that they have to release that energy somewhere. Suddenly your leash becomes a tug-of-war toy.

What to do: Teach your dog to relax at the sight of his leash rather than get overly excited. VetStreet offers some tips like training him against being too rambunctious and rewarding him when he sits and stays nice and calm when you break out the leash.

Going on a walk is likely to be one of the highlights of your dog’s day. By training your pup and understanding why your dog does what he does, you can enjoy your daily rambles just as much as your dog does. Always keep in mind that a walk is just as important and fun for your dog as it is for you. So, while his habits might be a little annoying sometimes, understand that it’s also okay to let a dog be a dog… just maybe not roll in stinky things.

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Take The Lead, Safely! Leash Walking Skills Every Human Needs to Know

Lead

Take The Lead, Safely! Leash Walking Skills Every Human Needs to Know

People frequently ask me why I use hands-free leashes in my dog classes instead of letting owners hold the leash. One main reason is the hands-free leashes allow the clients to easily handle and deliver treats quickly, in rapid succession, and with correct timing. A less obvious but very important reason and my answer: Have you seen what people do with a leash in their hands? I remember attending a seminar early in my career by Patricia McConnell where she showed a video of chimpanzees handling objects. They grabbed, swung, lifted and pulled at these objects. Her point was, primates can’t help but manipulate objects in weird ways. 
What type of weird ways do human primates handle leashes?

#1 For one, we like to grab things and pull them up in the air.

We humans tend to hold leashes up and tight when we want a dog to stop and stand stationary.

The appropriate direction to hold the leash when trying to give a dog a cue to stop is backwards, not up.

#2 We grab things and hold them high, even when stationary.

Humans also tend to hold the leash up and tight when standing around stationary. When we’re not standing stationary, we are randomly shortening and lengthening the leash so the dog has no idea what location or position will lead to a loose, comfortable leash.

Instead, we should shorten the leash to the length we want that will allow the dog to move. This way the leash is loose when the dog is in an approved location and tight only when he tries to move out of position.

#3 We even raise them above our head.

An entertaining habit of humans is the need to pull the leash above our heads in order to pull it short enough to give a quicker stop-cue.

A better way to shorten the leash is to gather it in one hand so that both of your hands can stay low. Then, slide your hand down the leash to indicate a stop-cue.

#4: And tend to love the false control, even when just walking.

Not only do we tend to pull the leash tight when standing stationary, we also tend to want to hold the leash tight all of the time while walking a dog from place to place. As a result, the dog learns that the leash will be tight no matter what, so there is no need to try to walk on a loose leash.

The leash should be loose when the dog is in position or about to get into position. It should only be tight for a few seconds at a time when you need to guide the dog to catch up to you or to get back into position when he’s straying off course.

#5: We humans also often do some unsafe things with the leash, such as wrapping the leash around our hand.

We often wrap the leash around our hands, which is dangerous. If the dog startles or sprints away this can lead to broken fingers and sprained hands.

A better method is to place your hand in the handle and then gather the leash in your hand instead of wrapping it around your hand. If needed, get a wider leash for better grip.

When the leash is gathered, it should not come out of the top of your hand. If the dog pulls, you would need a lot of wrist strength to control it.

The leash should extend from the bottom of your hand down towards the dog.

#6: Or grab the leash in ergonomically odd ways.

Humans often hold the leash awkwardly. Here, the hands are facing the incorrect direction. This is ergonomically incorrect.

Instead, your pinkies should face downwards and your thumbs up.

With all that can go wrong with holding a leash, hands-free leashes allow humans to learn the natural body posture and movement that help guide a dog. Once the handlers have practiced good habits, then they can go back to to using a regular leash. It’s a win for everyone!

Source: Friends of the dog

The Importance of Sniffing for Dogs

Sniffing

The Importance of Sniffing for Dogs

Dogs live in a sensory world and use their noses to receive important information about their environment through sniffing.  Sniffing is mentally stimulating and leaves them with a “feel good” factor and helps reduce stress. Dogs have up to 300 million olfactory receptors in their noses, compared to about 6 million in ours.  So, you can understand why sniffing is so critical in their daily life. Also, just as a comparison, the part of the dog’s brain that processes smell is proportionally about 40 times bigger than ours, so yes, sniffing is that important for dogs. 

The olfactory nerves are connected to the limbic system which is the part of the brain where emotions are processed. Allowing your dog opportunities to sniff on walks gets him moving and exploring his environment. This gives him a great physical and mental workout and boosts “happy hormones”. More sniffing opportunities on walks means a happier dog as the dopamine levels increase in his brain and body. 

So, stop and take the time to let your dog sniff on walks. It gives him an opportunity to find out more information about his environment. Don’t pull your dog on a lead for sniffing, that’s like covering someone’s eyes throughout a movie- not fair!!

You can also mix up your walk schedule to encourage different routes for different smells for added stimulation and add more decompression walks to their routine.  A decompression walk means more walks in nature where your dog can relax, decompress and explore his natural environment with his nose. It’s a great way to reduce stress for him too. You’ll find that most dogs aren’t as relaxed doing city walks or walks where dogs bark at them from behind gates or traffic nearby.  So, where possible get away from these triggers and into more natural environments.  In on-leash areas and for safety purposes, use a longer lead (a long-line (3m/5m)) so he feels he can explore with his nose, yet is safely leashed and with you at all times. 

If you’re too far from nature, find a grassy trail or a grass area and scatter treats on the ground for him to find through scenting.  A tree-lined verge can also be a great place to let him “read” the local news.  If that’s also not possible in your area or too far for you, take him for a walk at a quieter time of the day to let him explore his neighbourhood without lots of noise and distractions. A change in the environment gives him the opportunity to engage with his world and enriches his life.  Even taking a handful of his dog pellets or treats and scattering them into his immediate environment can help keep his nose and brain stimulated. 

On your next scheduled walk, try a quieter route, a grassier path, or a field where there aren’t a ton of distractions like traffic and suburban stressors.  Let him explore his environment with his nose. Let your dog read every “pee-mail”, let him smell every flower, sniff the grass or the pathways and if he wants to stand and “read all about it” on the local lamp post for several minutes, let him. After all, it is his walk.

Source: Cape of Good Hope SPCA

Protect Your Dog’s Paws from Hot Surfaces in Summer

Paws

Protect Your Dog’s Paws from Hot Surfaces in Summer

Many owners like taking their dogs on walks, but many of them forget about one important detail: hot surfaces can burn a dog’s paws.

It can be tempting to take your dog everywhere you go, but it can cause serious harm to your dog if you are not careful. Remember that if it feels way too hot for you to leave your hands comfortably on the ground for at least 10 seconds, it can result in severe burns on your dog’s paw pads, especially if you have a new puppy with tender young paws.

Your dog’s paws have footpads that can usually handle whatever a stroll or walk in nature throws at them. But a lot of human-made surfaces can burn your pooch’s paws, including concrete, metal, pavement, sidewalks and asphalt.

Symptoms of burned paws may include:

  • Limping or avoiding walking
  • Licking or chewing feet
  • Paw pads are darker in colour than usual
  • Pads are visibly damaged
  • Blisters or redness

If you suspect your dog has burned paw pads you should:

  • Flush the foot with cold water or use a cold compress
  • Try not to let your dog lick the injured pad
  • Take your dog to the vet as soon as you possible because burns can become infected.

Depending on the severity of the burn, your dog might need antibiotics or pain medication.

Tips to keep your dog or puppy from getting burned this summer:
These tips will help your dog stay safe and uninjured this summer from the dangers of hot surfaces.

Walk your dog in cool temperatures
The best time to walk your dog is in the morning or late evening, when the pavement is cool. Avoid walking your dog in the afternoon when the sun is high in the sky or early evening, because the pavement will be hot.

Walk your dog on the grass
If you end up taking your dog out during the warmer times of the day, be sure to stay on the grass and stick to shady areas. To avoid burning, stay away from sidewalks or any paved areas.

Moisturise your dog’s paws
Minor injuries such as cuts, cracking, or peeling of the paws can make your dog’s paws more susceptible to burns and other serious problems. Moisturising your dog’s feet with a veterinary approved product for your dog on a daily basis, will help prevent these injuries.

Paw wax
Paw wax is designed to protect your dog’s feet from hot surfaces and potentially harmful chemicals like road salts and can easily be smeared onto your dog’s paw pads to protect them from harmful surfaces.

Dog shoes
Not only do these booties look cute, but they are also one of the best ways to protect your dog’s paws from heat and potential injuries. If your dog will wear them, be sure to buy shoes that have rubber soles to offer the best protection. Be aware that not all dogs can get used to dog shoes, and some might have a hard time walking in them. There will definitely be an adjustment period for your dog with dog shoes. If you can get your dog used to using them, nothing else offers better protection. Disposable dog booties are also a great short-term fix for the summer heat. Dog booties can provide good protection from the heat, and are a great temporary solution if you need to take your dog out on a hot day and your dog is willing to wear them.

Peel and stick paw pads
Another solution to minimising heat damage to your dog’s paws in summer are peel and stick paw pads. They are easy to put on and they can be cut to the perfect size for paws and can be reused.

Check their paws regularly
Check your dog’s paw pads daily for any signs of damage and wash his paws frequently. If you do happen to see a problem, or if your dog is acting strangely on his feet, take your dog to your nearest vet for medical assistance.

Source: Cape of Good Hope SPCA 

Mastering the art of dog walks

dog

Mastering the art of dog walks

Optimize dog walks for you and your dog with these essential tips.

Walks are essential for the well-being of canine companions and when done correctly, with the right attitude, they can also be very beneficial for us. It is a commitment responsible pet parents make.

Walks are an opportunity for dogs to:

  1. Relieve themselves.
  2. Move their bodies and get exercise.
  3. Get fresh air.
  4. Help with weight control.
  5. Reduce anxiety, boredom, and depression.
  6. Interacting with their environment and “earthing”.
  7. Socialize with other humans and dogs.
  8. Strengthen their bond with you.

The truth is that most dogs don’t get nearly the amount of exercise they need, resulting in many canine companions becoming obese. Pet guardianship means committing to keep your pet healthy and moving, rain or shine (or snow).  Keep in mind, that for most dogs, a walk is great, however, they need at least three days of 20-minute plus heart-pumping exercise per week, which will likely be achieved more by fast activities or running, rather than walking. 

Set the stage for a lifetime of good walks for you and your canine companion!

  1. Get the right gear for your dog’s needs and get them used to it.
  2. Train your dog to follow loose lead and reduce your dog’s urge to pull.
  3. Explore the different types of walks and make it fun.
  4. Be mindful of the common mistakes we can make when going for walks.
  5. Take safety precautions.

dog

1. THE RIGHT GEAR

Investing in quality gear, not only enhances safety but also makes walks more enjoyable for both you and your furry companion. Start young/early and slowly. They should be accustomed to wearing the gear before you attempt to take them for walks.

HARNESS, COLLAR, AND LEAD

For your dog, a well-fitting harness or collar is crucial, as it provides comfort and control while minimizing the risk of injury. A sturdy leash, preferably one with a comfortable handle and appropriate length, allows you to maintain control and guide your dog effectively. Even if off-leash, always pack their harness and leash and include an ID tag.

Every dog should have their own secure-fitting flat collar (no choke or pinch collars, please) and an ID tag.

I always advocate for a Y-harness as collars may cause injury to the neck and soft tissue. However, a harness won’t work if your dog does not have loose lead walking skills or training. In a dog’s forward movement, a harness with a ribbon crossing their chest from side to side hinders them, in the same way humans would be bothered hiking with a rubber band holding their arms. Physiological movement of the front limb is inhibited.  Check out this video on the harness and read more on The Paw Company’s page, by searching harness.

I prefer a strong lead of about 1.5 m and advise against retractable leashes as they are more prone to create injury and be a safety hazard, they break, and you have less control.

Make sure your ID tags are legible and have updated contact numbers on.

Other gear may include:

  • Muzzles are not only for aggressive dogs as they can also be used for those dogs who like to eat anything on the road. Muzzle training is important for emergencies too.
  • Reflective gear for both of you if you walk during darker hours.
  • Wear comfortable, supportive shoes yourself and weather-appropriate clothing to stay dry and protected.
  • Consider carrying essentials such as water, waste bags, and a first-aid kit for unexpected situations.
dog dog

2. TRAINING TO WALK

Here are some walk-training tips from Dr. Karen Becker.

Training Your Dog to Follow on a Loose Lead

Initial walks should be short for most puppies — the main goal is to get your dog used to being attached to you by a lead. Find a safe environment and allow the puppy to drag the line behind him for a bit, then pick up the opposite end. Let him lead you around for a few seconds while you hold the line just off the ground. Slow down so he’s forced to slow down, ultimately to a stop. Take a short break for praise and a little playtime.

Next, let him trail the line again, but when you pick up your end this time, call him and stand still. If he pulls, hold your ground without pulling him in your direction. The goal is to teach him to put slack in the line himself by moving toward you. When he puts slack in the line, praise him and call him to you.

If he comes all the way to you, give him more praise and a training treat. If he stops on his way to you, tighten the line just enough to apply a tiny bit of pull to it. Immediately call him to come again. Give praise as he moves toward you and treats when he comes all the way back. Two or three repetitions is all many puppies need to understand lack of tension in the line is what earns praise and treats.

When your pup has learned to come towards you to relieve tension on the line, you can begin backing up as he comes toward you to keep him moving. Next, turn and walk forward so he’s following you. If he passes you, head in another direction so he’s again behind you.

The goal is to teach him to follow on a loose lead. Once you’ve accomplished the goal, you can continue to use the light line or replace it with a leash.

Depending on your pup’s temperament, 5 to 15-minute sessions are sufficient in the beginning. Practice controlling him on the lead for 30-second intervals during each session. Exercise patience and don’t engage in a battle of wills with your pup. Don’t snap, yank, or otherwise use the line for correction or punishment. Stop before either of you gets frustrated or tired.

After each short session on the lead, liberally praise your puppy and spend a few minutes playing fetch or some other game he loves. Remember: you’re building the foundation for an activity both you and he will enjoy and look forward to throughout his life.

Reducing Your Dog’s Urge to Pull

Dogs pull for various reasons including but not limited to:

  • It is unnatural to be attached to a leash. They are not meant to walk like robots next to us.
  • They move faster than us and by pulling their human moves forward.
  • Excitement.

It is unrealistic to expect them to never pull!

If your little guy or girl just doesn’t seem to be catching on to the loose lead thing, don’t despair. Some puppies and untrained adult dogs stubbornly fight the “pressure of the line” rather than create slack.

If your puppy freezes on a taut line or consistently pulls against it, it’s important to use a halter or harness rather than a collar attached to the lead, because she can create serious neck and cervical disk problems for herself by pulling against a collar/leash combination.

Next, make sure you’re not part of the problem. Our human instinct is to hold the leash taut, so you must also train yourself to move in ways that keep slack in the line. A dog’s natural response to a tight line is to pull against it. Once you’re sure you’re not contributing to your pup’s refusal to create slack in the lead or move toward you, do the following:

  • Maintain tension on the line and turn your back to her. Allow time for it to occur to her she can’t win by pulling against you.
  • Remain still with your back to her holding the tension in the line — don’t jerk it, don’t pull, or yank her toward you, and don’t put slack in the line yourself, as this will show her that the way to get slack is to pull at the line, which is exactly the opposite of what you’re trying to teach her.

The message you want to send to your pup is that pulling on the lead doesn’t accomplish a thing. It doesn’t change the scenery, it doesn’t get you moving in a direction she chooses, and it doesn’t earn praise or treats. Eventually, she’ll stop doing what doesn’t work, especially when she’s consistently rewarded for desirable behaviour.

From the very first moment you begin leash training, make sure your puppy accomplishes nothing by pulling on her line. It takes some dogs longer than others to learn to keep the leash loose, but with patience and persistence, any puppy can learn to follow a loose lead.

dog

DIFFERENT KINDS OF WALKS 

I have learned a lot about the different kinds of walks from Dr. Karen Becker. Here is what shes shares:

Once your furry companion has acquired good leash manners and both of you look forward to your walks each day, consider changing up the routine to keep things fresh and fun.

  1. Purposeful walks — These are typically short and have a specific goal, for example, walking your dog to her potty spot.
  2. Training walks — These walks can be about improving leash manners and learning basic or advanced obedience commands. Remember to take some healthy training treats.
  3. Mentally stimulating walks — Most leashed dogs don’t get to spend nearly as much time sniffing and investigating as they would like, so allowing your pet some time to explore is good mental stimulation for her.
  4. Sniffaris — During these mentally stimulating walks, your dog takes the lead, you follow, and he gets to sniff whatever he pleases.
  5. Power walks — Power walks keep your dog’s frame strong, and his weight in check, and help alleviate arthritis and other degenerative joint diseases. These walks can also be an essential method for ensuring your dog gets enough exercise. Your dog may be pumped up after such a walk, so prepping some post-walk-enrichment (like a food toy, licking, etc.) can help them wind down.
  6. Walks with friends — If your dog is comfortable around other dogs, consider meeting up with neighbours or friends with dogs for social group walks.
  7. Different dog-walker walks — Everyone walks a dog a little differently, so the more members of your household who walk your dog, the more variety she’ll enjoy.
  8. Change-of-scenery walks — Instead of heading outside in the same old direction, instead, buckle your dog in and drive a few blocks away or to a neighbourhood park or nearby hiking trail for your walk.
  9. Decompression walks – The idea is to reduce the dog’s stress and anxiety by providing a calm and controlled environment where they can use their natural behaviours. These walks often involve a slower pace and a focus on allowing the dog to make choices about where to go and what to explore, rather than following a strict route or pace.

dog

dog

ALTERNATIVES FOR REACTIVE DOGS

When you do suburban walking, the other dogs barking, are not them “saying hello”, it is more like “death threats”. For reactive and anxious dogs this won’t be beneficial. For some guardians, walks then become stressful too. In such cases, it may do more harm than good, to commit to that walk.

Ways to improve the walk for a reactive dog (R+Dogs):

  • Avoid the triggers (still work on them later)
  • Let them sniff more
  • Build their confidence
  • Skip the walk
  • Get professional help

Here are some alternatives for physical and mental stimulation:

  • Active games
  • Dog puzzles and toys
  • Dog play dates
  • Online training (for you)
  • Scent work where you hide things for them to find in your home or yard
  • Obstacle course in your yard

AbsoluteDOGS has a game for everything!

dog

4. COMMON DOG WALKING MISTAKES

  • Ignoring your dog or multi-tasking — Unfortunately, there are pet parents who do everything but, pay attention to their dogs during walks. The activity becomes so routine that they do it without giving much thought to the furry fellow at the other end of the leash. This is a bad habit primarily because of the danger of what your dog can get up to if you are not looking.
  • Not allowing sniff time — Your dog’s most acute sense is their sense of smell. Remember that dogs perceive their world in a big way through scent. It is important to allow them to sniff during walks.
  • Choosing the wrong type of collar, harness, or leash — Many pet parents don’t realize the importance of choosing the right type for their dog.
  • Not taking advantage of the different types of walks, mentioned above, to keep things interesting for both of you.

5. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Here are some safety precautions to take:

  • Pack a mini first aid kit.
  • Take water for you and your canine companion.
  • Keep them hydrated and prevent them from drinking contaminated water.
  • Wear visible gear so the public can see you and reflective gear if you are walking during darker hours.
  • Watch out for dog snatchers who follow your walking routines as well as any other hazards.
  • Do not let young children or the elderly walk animals alone.
  • Go at their pace.
  • Protect their paws.
  • Puppy precautions.
  • Microchip and ID tags.

Let’s elaborate on a few:

Protect their paws – To protect your dog’s paws while walking, ensure you avoid hot pavement or rough terrain that can cause burns or abrasions. Before the walk, test the road/tar/ground temperature. If you can’t keep the back of your hand on the ground for 5 seconds then it is too hot for their paws!Opt for early morning or late evening walks when the ground is cooler, and consider using dog booties to shield their paws from very harsh surfaces if neccesary.

Regularly check their paws for signs of injury or irritation, and keep their nails trimmed to prevent discomfort. Additionally, applying a paw balm can help moisturize and protect their pads from drying out or cracking. I also do a paw-soak after walks with filter water and apple cider vinegar. Taking these precautions can keep your dog’s paws healthy and comfortable during walks.

Puppies – Discuss with your veterinarian when your puppy’s immune system is strong enough to go for walks. This is usually after they had all their initial vaccinations. Also, discuss with your vet when running and jumping will be appropriate for your puppy, when we look at bone growth.

Microchip and ID tags – Make sure your dog is microchipped and registered on multiple databases as well as wearing an ID tag.

KEEP IN MIND

  • If you are having trouble with the walk, get professional help. This could be a trainer if your pet just never learned to walk on a leash properly or a behaviourist if there are other underlying issues like anxiety or reactivity.
  • Leash manners are important, even with the right gear.
  • Sterilized dogs will likely be less distracted or distracting for other dogs.
  • Although walking is a great activity, some breeds might not be getting enough exercise for cardiovascular health through just a walk. For others, you might have to start slower for shorter distances. Remember to take precautions when running. Start slow, go at their pace, and be cautious with growing dogs, old dogs, and those from certain breeds or with certain conditions.
  • When going for hikes, make sure your pet is up for it, you have enough water, the trail is dog-friendly and never let your dog chase any wildlife.

dog

Yellow ribbon – Be mindful of fellow walkers. Never allow your dog to just approach another dog, even if they are friendly, and especially not when that dog is on a leash because they might be fearful, reactive, aggressive, in pain, not child-friendly, in training or recovering from an operation. The yellow ribbon on a dog’s collar or leash is a sign to other people, that the dog needs some space and that you need to proceed with caution. Never take away another dog or their owner’s choice to interact or not. Always ask permission from the owner and most importantly from the dog.  Help us spread the world on this!

The most important thing you can do to ensure a lifetime of enjoyable walks with your canine companion is to help them learn to be the perfect walking partner and be one too. As Dr. Karen Becker says: “One of the most important gifts you can give your dog whenever you interact with him, including on walks, is your undivided attention.”

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin – Animal 101

Dog walking 101 – happy trails make for waggy tails

You’ll be hard-pressed to find a pooch that doesn’t love their leash time. In the South African sun, walkies with your pet is almost the order of the day.  Now you can take walkies to the next level with these 3 simple tips for stress free leash time from Melissa-Rae Lourens, Founder of Kreature Comforts.

Get your good boy used to his collar

You can’t just strap him up and get ready to roll, you must get your dog used to some of the items that will become regular features of your walkies time. If you have a new puppy, let him wear his collar around the house until he seems comfortable. Then add the lead for him to get used to for short amounts of time while you’re playing or giving him treats (remember to never leave your pup unattended with a lead on though). Then take the fun outside! There will be new challenges with this step because all the sounds, smells, and sights your puppy encounters will be intriguing and new to him.

Soon enough though, if you’re patient and keep walks short and reward him with treats, he will get used to it and even get excited when you get it out of the cupboard because he knows what to expect. Start him out with this Incredi-collar which has a classically comfortable design.

Let her leash the way

Your pretty pooch may not like being leashed up in the beginning because there is so much to see and do, but a good leash is incredibly important to keep her safe while on a walk. Between traffic, other dogs and all the other distractions you may encounter, ensuring a strong leash ensures their – and your – safety. It’s natural for a curious creature to pull the leash, but resist the urge to pull back, yank or jerk the leash, and never drag your dog along by it. If she does pull, simply stand still and refuse to move until she comes back to you. She will soon learn how to keep a steady pace right by your side.

It’s important to choose a leash that is strong and sturdy, made from tough materials and is comfortable for her and for your hands. A swivel clasp will also go a long way to helping you avoid getting tangled if your doggo starts to dance with excitement. This is going to be an every-day activity after all, so comfort is key. Check out the Incredi-leash for its ergonomic design.

Harness the power of the harness

Ok, we know you’re not walking a horse but harnesses are for dogs too, believe it or not. A harness is super comfy for dogs during walks because they’re generally easier going than a collar. On long walks there is less pulling on your dog’s throat and neck and they also help prevent the leash getting tangle in your dog’s legs. The biggest benefit is the shift in pressure from the neck to a much larger part of your dog’s body so back pain is alleviated. A dog in a collar can also often wiggle out of it and run into danger or get lost, whereas a dog in a well-fitted harness is safer from escape because it’s harder to get out of. And finally, harnesses are great for older dogs who may need a bit more love and support to keep them on their feet.

Choose a harness that has two attachment points to accommodate the mood your dog may be in that day, like this Incredi-Harness.

Before you even get your dog on the leash, it’s important to highlight just how much our dogs need their walks. Aside from being a super fun adventure of sights, sounds and smells for them, it also provides much-needed exercise time. Unfortunately, studies have shown that 20% of us don’t walk our dogs every day.

Our dogs love life and thrive when they get regular walkies. It’s fantastic for their mental and physical health; and hey, you benefit too when you’re up and moving – it’s a win-win-woof-woof experience, so unleash the leash and make it a habit.

Source: Kreature Comforts

Walking your dog? – Careful does it

Image: Pixabay

This summer is going to be a scorcher! If you and your Bulldog love your walks, please bear in mind that your Bully struggles to vent himself and the heat can possibly be deadly. But don’t give up the walks just yet, here are a few tips to ensure your bully is safe while you are out and about.

  1. Don’t walk on the tar road, if you place your hand on the tar for 10 seconds and it’s hot to the touch, bear in mind it will be hot for your Bully’s paws as well. Walk him on the sidewalk where there is grass or take him to the dog park where there is lots of trees. Hot tar roads can leave your dog’s paw pads injured and painful.
  2. Take some water along. Just like you need a drink along the way, so does your dog. Not only will it help quench his thirst, but it will help to keep him nice and cool. For bulldogs it can even be helpful if they suffer from heatstroke and you wet their body with nice cool (not freezing cold) water, to help bring their body temp down. Water is a definite must!
  3. Walk early morning or early evening, this way you avoid the hottest part of the day, and your dog is less likely to overheat.
  4. Always keep your phone with you, this is important as you will need to be able to call transport and a vet should your dog develop heat stress.
  5. Keep walks short and easy. Taking long walks with many uphill stretches can be very hard on a dog that struggles to regulate his own body temperature. Short walks around the block or up the street and back is often enough for a bulldog. This way he gets exercise and gets rid of some excess energy, but doesn’t overexert himself and run the risk of heat stroke

This summer is going to be a scorcher! If you and your Bulldog love your walks, please bear in mind that your Bully struggles to vent himself and the heat can possibly be deadly. But don’t give up the walks just yet, here are a few tips to ensure your bully is safe while you are out and about.  

If you notice your dog isn’t feeling well, end your walk immediately and get to the vet. Try and keep your dog as cool as you can while on your way there. Heatstroke is life threatening, the sooner a vet can stabilize him, the better. 

Source: English & French Bulldog Rescue SA

Looking for a Vet?
Search our Veterinary Directory!

Tips for walking your dog

Tips for walking your dog