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Why Your Dog Incessantly Sniffs and Pees on Walks

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Why Your Dog Incessantly Sniffs and Pees on Walks

If you’re a dog parent, have ever walked a dog or are simply observant of dog behavior, you’re well aware of how much time our canine companions spend picking up and sending “pee-mail.”
If you’ve paid attention to your pet’s urination rituals, you know he’s using his keen sense of smell to gather information. As he stops and sniffs (and sniffs, and sniffs), he’s picking up facts about all the other creatures, in particular other canines, who’ve relieved themselves in the area. The behavior around urinating is called scent marking, and it’s used by a wide range of animals as a means of communication. There are a variety of ways to scent-mark, but for dogs, peeing is the hands-down favorite.

The Purpose Behind Your Dog’s ‘Urinary Communication’

Despite how much time our canine companions spend in pee-related pursuits, very little is actually known about urinary communication among dogs. However, a pioneering 2011 study1 suggests dogs of both sexes use a variety of different urination activities to:

  • Assert social status or position
  • Find potential mates
  • Size up unfamiliar dogs
  • Limit potentially threatening close contact during social introductions

The study authors believe dogs may use urine investigation and scent marking to establish safe social connections with other dogs. Anneke Lisberg, Ph.D., study co-author and an associate professor in the department of biological sciences at the University of Wisconsin-Whitewater told Discovery News it’s possible dogs “might be able to assess many personal aspects of health, stress, virility, diet” and more just by sniffing another dog’s urine.2 
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Lisberg believes marking and countermarking could be “a sort of Facebook of their personal life, easily accessible from a safe distance.”

Does Size Matter When It Comes to Scent-Marking?

We know or assume scent marking allows mammals to exchange information with each other without direct contact. We also know that in the animal kingdom, body size is often an indicator of competitive ability.

So recently another team of researchers, this time from Cornell University, set out to test their assumption that smaller dogs might be more into pee-mail than larger dogs because they have more to lose if a one-on-one interaction with another dog goes bad. This assumption challenges the popular notion that competitive dogs do more scent marking than less assertive dogs.
The study involved 281 shelter dogs.3 The researchers observed the dogs on 20-minute walks and kept track of total urinations, urinations directed at specific targets in the environment and also defecations. The researchers walked some of the dogs once and others multiple times, for a total of 619 potty-walk observations.

Study Results: Small Dogs Scent-Mark More Often Than Larger Dogs

The researchers discovered that small dogs pee at higher rates (0.36 urinations per minute) than both medium (0.26) and large dogs (0.24). The little ones also directed more of their urinations at targets in the environment (72 percent) than large dogs (60 percent). The researchers also confirmed the results of previous studies that showed male dogs pee at higher rates (0.41) than females (0.18), and direct more of their urinations at targets in the environment (87 percent versus 45 percent for the gals).

Pooping for all the dogs was random, having nothing to do with size or sex, which makes sense since defecation seems to play a much less important role in scent-marking than urination, at least among canines. The researchers also noted that dogs who had been at the shelter longer did more frequent targeted peeing, and were also more likely to poop on their walks. The researchers concluded:

“Our findings regarding body size and urinary behavior support the hypothesis that small dogs communicate more frequently via scent marking than larger dogs. Body size is known to influence visual and auditory communication in mammals, and our data show that body size also influences chemical communication. Finally, our results provide context for problematic marking behaviors in the home.”4

Of course, the smaller size of small dogs’ bladders can sometimes account for more frequent peeing, but it doesn’t explain the targeted aspect of scent marking. The takeaway: Small dogs prefer scent marking and do more of it because it’s less risky for them than direct interactions with other dogs. They’re able to avoid conflict through sniffing and marking.

Scent Marking: The Boys Versus the Girls

In one of Lisberg’s 2011 experiments, she presented short wooden stakes that had been urinated on to a group of dogs that included both intact and spayed/neutered dogs of both genders. She then observed and recorded their behavior.5 Somewhat surprisingly, the females in the group spent just as much time investigating the pee of unfamiliar dogs as the males did. The males were primarily interested in the urine of unfamiliar males; however, the females were equally interested in the urine of both sexes.

Lisberg also observed that the dogs with the highest tail positions (assumed to be the highest status dogs) spent less time sniffing; dogs with low tail positions spent the most time at it. However, dogs with high tail positions did the most over-marking (urinating on or near the mark left by another canine).

None of the females over-marked. Instead, they adjacent-marked from a distance of 4 to 5 feet. In a previous study, Lisberg demonstrated that over-marking and adjacent marking are actually different responses with different motivations. Lisberg performed another experiment at a popular dog park to observe dogs’ pee investigation, ano-genital (AG) investigation (butt sniffing) and peeing behavior at the entrance to the park. A few of her observations:

  • Male and female dogs were equally likely to urinate immediately upon entering the park; however, males peed more frequently.
  • Male dogs already at the park over-marked or adjacent marked more than females, and spent more time doing pee investigations of new dogs entering the park.
  • Dogs of both sexes with high tail positions marked and investigated more than dogs with low tail positions, and no female dog with a low tail position either peed upon entering the park, or over-marked or adjacent marked.
  • Butt sniffing was done more by dogs already in the park than those just entering, and was done more frequently by dogs who appeared relaxed. There didn’t seem to be any relationship between AG sniffing and either the sex or status of the dogs.
  •  

Interestingly, Lisberg noted a consistent tendency of dogs getting the AG treatment to quickly move a few feet away and urinate. This caused the other dogs to sniff the urine rather than the new dog, which ended the potentially stressful physical contact.

Lisberg speculated that urine marking might be a way for dogs to reveal social information about themselves, while avoiding the tension created by butt sniffing strangers. It’s possible that if more dogs were able to greet one another through the pee-and-sniff method versus the butt sniff method, there would be fewer issues when leashed dogs meet up with other dogs.

When You Go for Walks, Let Your Dog Be a Dog!

According to Lisberg:
“Urine marks are really complex signals, and dogs seem to be far savvier than most owners seem to think when it comes to deciding what to sniff (and for how long) and what to counter-mark (adjacent or over-mark). When we walk our dogs, all we notice are the big responses, but we don’t see the likely many signals that they are ignoring or avoiding.

For the most part, dogs are not wantonly running around and sniffing and urinating on everything (despite appearances to the contrary), but rather appear to be making decisions about what marks are important to pay attention to and whether and how to respond.”6
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Food for thought! “When it’s dog walk time, let your dog set the pace, and let THEIR walk be for them,” suggests animal behaviorist Marc Bekoff Ph.D. “Let them sniff and pee to their heart’s content and enjoy the fact that you are allowing them to be dogs.”7
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How to Handle Cat Spraying

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Cat

How to Handle Cat Spraying

Keeping the house clean can be a challenge for anyone who owns pets. There’s nothing worse than getting home after a long day at work to a terrible odor or mess on the floor. Spraying is one of the most common behavioral problems in cats, along with scratching. But while your first instinct may be to discipline your cat for this undesirable behavior, keep in mind that she is predisposed to this practice, and it should be redirected.

Why Does My Cat Spray?

In the wild, cats leave scent signals to communicate with other cats through rubbing, scratching, urinating, and spraying. Scent signals let cats know when another cat has claimed an area as her own, when she was there and might return, and if she is looking for a mate. While most neutered cats who live indoors do not feel the need to spray, those who do are typically under stress and want to surround themselves with their own scent for protection. Even though you’ve created a safe, nurturing environment for your cat, she may still feel distressed and want to mark her territory.

What to Do if Your Cat is Spraying

First, determine whether your cat is spraying or urinating. Cats urinate by squatting onto a horizontal surface; spraying occurs standing up. The cat makes a treading motion with her back feet and quivers her tail, leaving her scent mark on a vertical surface.

If your cat has begun urinating outside of her litter box, be sure that the box is regularly cleaned. If the behaviour persists, take her to the vet to check for lower urinary tract disease and cystitis. A urinary tract infection can cause your cat to urinate while standing, confusing the act with spraying. Cystitis can also cause symptoms of lower urinary tract disease, including frequent attempts to urinate, straining to urinate, crying while urinating, and blood in urine. Cats who suffer from recurrent cystitis often benefit from increased fluid intake, which may require switching your cat to wet food. Consult your vet for nutritional management.

Consider recent changes to your household that may be affecting your cat’s behaviour—especially if she spends most of her time indoors—such as the arrival of a new baby or pet, a house move, schedule changes, or even rearranging furniture. To deter threats from other household or neighbourhood cats, block access to cat flaps or doors. Once your cat feels that her territory is not threatened, she will no longer feel the need to mark it.

Moving furniture or redecorating can be upsetting to a cat, because it removes her scent from places she has designated around your house. By spreading her scent to familiar places, she may feel less inclined to spray. Rub a soft cotton cloth gently around your cat’s face; this is where her individual scent and pheromones are produced. Apply the cloth several times per day to areas where your cat is spraying. Synthetic pheromones are also available through your vet.

Cats also feel most comfortable when they are secure. You can make your cat feel a sense of security by limiting her patrol area to one or two rooms.

Once your cat has urinated or sprayed in your house, she may return to that spot again if the area isn’t thoroughly cleaned.

  • Keep your cat away from the area as long as possible. For example, place a piece of furniture on the spot.
  • Wash the area with enzyme-containing laundry detergent and rinse thoroughly. Then, mix a solution of 50 percent white vinegar and water, and spray.
  • Spray and scrub the area with rubbing alcohol and dry. Test delicate surfaces on a small area before application.
  • Talk to your vet about a stain and odor remover to get rid of residual odors.
  • Do not use an ammonia-based cleaner. Because urine contains ammonia, this might attract your cat to return to the spot.

Finally, with any behavioural issues your cat might display it is important to never yell at or punish her. This can only cause a situation such as spraying to get worse as she may become more stressed. Cats do not understand punishment, so to correct a behaviour problem is best to train her and continue to show her love and affection. Slowly over time you can help redirect poor behaviours and have the cute and cuddly cat you’ve always wanted.

If your cat is suffering with urinary issues, ask your vet about how Hill’s Prescription Diet c/d Urinary Stress or Hill’s Prescription Diet c/d Urinary Stress + Metabolic cat food can help.

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Wags and Purrs fact sheet on adult toilet training and scent marking

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adult toilet training

WAGS AND PURRS FACT SHEET ON ADULT TOILET TRAINING AND SCENT MARKING

When a dog urine marks something they deposit a tiny amount of urine on an object. It will usually be on a vertical surface.  If they are toileting in your house they will empty their bladder so there will be a large amount of urine.

This fact sheet discusses how you can address urine marking issues and toilet training. The notes in the fact sheet can be applied to puppies and adult dogs.

WHY DO DOGS URINE MARK IN YOUR HOME AND WHY DO DOGS WEE WHEN THEY COME INSIDE THE HOUSE (THIS APPLIES TO OUTDOOR DOGS)?

  • Dogs are territorial animals: Dogs like to stake out a claim to a particular space, area or object. Urine marking is a normal behaviour in dogs but it’s normally done outside when they go for a walk and not inside a home. The reason why dogs do this is because urine marking is a form of communication between dogs. Urine consists of metabolic waste products and pheromonal chemical signals. The pheromones carries information about the gender, age, reproductive status, identity and health of the dog. When dogs scent mark on walks this is what their urine is telling other dogs. When dogs urinate over another dogs urine spot they are laying claim to that spot and leaving information to other dogs about them. Dogs will urine mark regardless of whether they are neutered/ spade or not.
  • Dog Breeds: Smaller dogs breeds such as Yorkshire Terriers, Maltese poodles, Chihuahuas and Pomeranians are known to struggle with house training. These dogs were bred for their juvenile characteristics which makes them struggle with house training.
  • Stress and over stimulation: Urine marking in the home can be stress related. A number of things can cause your dog to have anxiety including the presence of new objects in the home, furniture or luggage in a dog’s environment, the departure of a resident from a dog’s home, a new person moving into the home and conflict between a dog and people or other animals in the home. Dogs can also urine mark when they are over excited/ stimulated.
  • Unfamiliar smells of dogs or other people in home. If you go for a walk and accidentally walk in urine or pooh on the walk and then come home and walk this in the house your dog can smell this and will urine mark over it. If you go to a house where there are other dogs and they sit on you your dog may also then urine mark your clothes or belongings when you come home as they smell of other dogs. Dogs will also urine mark when people come in a home that have an unfamiliar smell to them. They may mark where the person has walked or sat or even on their belongings sometimes.
  • Diet: Dry make your dog thirsty. Of course the more your dog’s drink water the more they will want to pee. You can give your dog’s wet and dry food if you want to or when you cannot watch the dogs inside leave them ice cubes in a water bowl instead of water. The dogs can still quench their first when they are in the house but won’t gulp down water making them want to pee. Of course your dogs should always have fresh water available when they are outside.
  • Dogs living outdoors: Dogs that live outside often end up not being house trained when they are inside a house. Outside your dogs have learnt they can wee wherever and whenever they want. When they come inside they think the same applies in the house.

HOW TO TOILET TRAIN AN ADULT DOG

These notes apply to puppies and adult dogs.

  • Keep an eye on your dog when they are indoors. When you are house training any dog you need to keep them under constant supervision when they are indoors. For the first two weeks of house training put your dog on a leash and keep them by your side. You can also play with them, give them a chew toy or just cuddle them but make sure their leashes are on. This will allow you to keep an eye on the dogs. Look out for signs that they want to urinate such as sniffing the ground intently or circling. When they do this say “Ah Ah “loudly or “No” and take them outside to urinate/ mark. If they urinate outside praise them and give them a treat. Until your dogs are 100% house trained you need to supervise them. As your dog’s start to understand the rules you can give them more free access to rooms by tying them to a chair in the room or letting them walk around a room but with their leads still attached. Eventually you will be able to let them come you.
  • Put your dog in a crate or a confined space in home when you cannot watch them. If you cannot keep a constant watch over your dog when they are in the house put them in a crate, play pen or a room that is tiled. Put their beds, water and food in the crate/ room/ play pen. The area must be an area where they have not urinated before. Dogs generally don’t like to urinate in their sleeping areas. If you decide to use a crate your dogs would need to be crate trained. See the video link below this report about crate training. Crates can be bought at a pet shop or on line. You can probably get pet pens on line as well or from hardware shops. Leave chews for your dog to chew on when you leave them in the crate/ confined area so they have something to do. Do not leave your dog in a crate for long periods.

adult toilet training - crate

  • Take dogs out every 30 minutes/ 1 hour when they are inside. Dogs normally want to pee after eating, playing, sleeping or drinking. If you are your dog in a crate or confined area you will need to take them outside to pee every half an hour to an hour. Eventually they should be able to last for two hours or longer without needing to urinate. When you take them outside and they urinate or pooh outside give them lots of praise and treats. When dogs realise they are going to get yummy treats when they urinate outside they should learn quite quickly to go outside when they want to wee. Do make sure your dog wees when you put them out otherwise they may come back inside the house and wee inside.
  • Try and ensure that your dogs don’t have an opportunity to urinate inside. Ideally you need to try and ensure your dog’s don’t make a mistake and urinate inside. If they do then it just means that more mistakes may follow. Of course it’s hard for mistakes not to happen try your best to make sure your dog is in the right place at the right time when they need to go the bathroom. Being able to predict when your dogs want to use the toilet and taking them outside in time is the real secret to successful house training.
  • Doggy nappies: You can purchase dog nappies which you can put on them when they are in the home and you are unable to watch them. These can be used if you cannot confine them to a crate or separate room. Dogs are not particularly fond of nappies and sometimes wearing them is enough to make them not want to mark or urinate in the home. My friend used them on her dog and they worked but every dog is different.

HOW TO STOP A DOG FROM MARKING IN YOUR HOME?

Besides house training Tyson from scratch here are some other things you can try.

  • Take dog to the vet: It’s always to take your dogs to the vet if they have behaviour issues to rule out any medical reasons for the behaviour. There are some medical issues such as Urinary incontinence (more evident in older dogs) and Urinary tract infections that can cause your dog to urinate or urine mark more often than usual.
  • Clean soiled areas thoroughly: It’s very important that you clean the areas where your dog messes thoroughly using a cleaner that does not contain ammonia. Ammonia is a constituent of urine. If you don’t clean thoroughly your dog will continue to mess in those areas. Clean the area with warm soapy water or preferably a weak solution of a biological detergent. You can then apply an odourless spray on disinfectant solution to the area. Avoid using bleach or strongly scented disinfectants. To clean carpets you can put detergent on the carpet then a plastic sheet over the area weighed down with books/ bricks to allow the cleaning agent to reach down to the underfelt of the carpet. Sprinkle the spot with baking soda when dry and then vacuum when dry. After this you can spray the area with surgical spirits or white vinegar just to get rid of the smell.
  • Keep objects likely to cause marking out of reach. Items such as clothing, blankets, curtains etc should be kept out of reach of your dog when he or she is in the house.
  • Make areas that your dog marks unpleasant. If there are specific things your dog urinates on such as your curtains, couches, personal clothing , chairs, heater etc try and makes these things unpleasant for your dog to mark on. You can do this by using double sided sticky tape, vinyl carpet runner turned upside down to expose the knobbly surface, citronella oil or other types of humane harmless booby traps. You can put plastic sheets over the items when your dog is around or clap your hands when you see him about to mark an area. Keep in mind however, that your dog may simply select another spot to urine mark. Another thing you can do is pop a balloon when you see your dog marking an area this is a form of punishment but it’s not causing him any harm. Ideally if you hide where he cannot see you and pop the balloon that would be good so he does not identify you with punishment. Once you do this a few times he will learn that marking in the house is something unpleasant.

Provide dog with a suitable target for marking. You can put a fire hydrant, tree trunk or any other vertical object in your garden and rub some urine on it and then when your dog looks like he wants to mark in your home take him outside and show him the object and when he marks it treat him. You can buy a target called a Simple Solution Pee Post on some online pet shops. See image below excuse the blurry quality.  

adult toilet training - pee post

  • Stress related urine marking: If your dog is urine marking because of stress you need to try and identify the cause of the stress. If a new person has moved into the home or you have done renovations to your home this can cause dogs stress and make them mark. You can put dogs on medications to help relieve stress but you would need to speak to your vet about this. If you think your dog is marking things in your home because he is anxious or over excited you can buy calming collars from a vet shop to put on him. This helps to calm dogs down. It contains artificial hormones that the mother dog gives out through her milk to puppies.
  • Establish your leadership: Sometimes dogs mark as a way of showing dominance. Ask your dog to sit before getting food, getting a toy or putting on his leash. Teach him some basic commands such as sit, down, stay and watch me. This can teach him that you are the one in control.

WHAT NOT TO DO

Don’t punish your dog after the fact. Punishment administered even a few minutes after your dog have messed in the house is ineffective because your dogs won’t understand why they are being punished.

VIDEOS ON URINE MARKING, CRATE TRAINING AND HOUSE TRAINING.

Below please find some interesting videos to watch on urine marking, house training and crate training.

INFORMATION IN THESE NOTES WAS TAKEN FROM THE FOLLOWING DOG BEHAVIOUR WEBSITES AND BOOKS:

Source: Wags and Purrs

Is there such a thing as a hypoallergenic pet?

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Is there such a thing as a hypoallergenic pet?

Image: Pixabay

A pet allergy is caused by proteins in an animal’s dander (tiny flakes of skin shed by animals with fur or feathers), saliva and urine. In addition, hair or fur from an animal can collect pollen, mould spores and other outdoor allergens, such as grass, which can also trigger allergies.

This means that pet hair itself is not an allergen – the problem is that it collects and harbours all the allergens mentioned above.  

Many breeds of animals are marketed as being hypoallergenic, which means they are unlikely to cause an allergic reaction – but do such breeds actually exist? 

No such thing as an allergy-free breed

The American College of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology says that while dog breeds like white poodles, Portuguese water dogs and certain types of terriers have a reputation for being hypoallergenic, there is no such thing as an allergy-free breed. 

Many people believe that getting a pet with shorter hair will keep allergies under control but according to the American Academy of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology allergic dander is not affected by how long the fur is or how much the animal sheds. 

A study, published in the American Journal of Rhinology & Allergy, collected and analysed 173 dust samples from homes with dogs, including so-called hypoallergenic breeds. The results were interesting – the levels of allergens did not differ between hypoallergenic and non-hypoallergenic breeds.

“Any way we looked at it, there just wasn’t a difference,” said senior author and epidemiologist Christine Cole Johnson. “There is simply no environmental evidence that any particular dog breed produces more or less allergen in the home than another one.”

The same goes for cats – there are no studies to show that hypoallergenic breeds exist. Like with dogs, allergens are carried in the dander, saliva and urine. The length of a cat’s fur, its gender or even how much time it spends indoors does not influence allergen levels. However, higher levels of allergens can be found in homes with multiple cats. 

Don’t fall for marketing claims

“Contrary to the many marketing claims made to appeal to people with allergies to pets, there is no such thing as a hypoallere, which means you’ll have an allergic reaction to harmless proteins found in urine, saliva or dander. 

Pet allergies can cause the following reactions:

  • Sneezing
  • Runny or blocked nose
  • Itchy, watery eyes
  • Coughing and wheezing
  • Shortness of breath
  • Skin irritation, hives or rashes
  • Asthma attacks

Manage your allergy and keep the pet

People are quick to get rid of the animal that is causing the allergic reaction but this is often not necessary. Here are seven ways to manage your allergy:

1. Keep pets out of the bedroom. Make sure you clean regularly and thoroughly.

2. Animal allergens can stick everywhere, so remove carpeting to reduce your exposure to the allergens and keep surfaces dust-free.

3. If you cannot get rid of carpets, make sure you steam clean them regularly.

4. Use a vacuum cleaner with a HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) filter and wear a mask when cleaning – this will protect you from any allergens the vacuum will stir up.

5. Change your clothes if you have been exposed to an animal for a long period of time.

6. Wash your pet once a week – this can help reduce airborne allergens. Or ask someone without an allergy to brush the pet outside to remove as much dander as possible. Keep litter trays and cages clean.

7. Speak to your doctor about medication you can take to alleviate symptoms.

Source: Health 24

How To Know When It’s More Than Just Your Dog’s Bad Breath

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Image: Pixabay

It’s unlikely that your dog’s breath will ever smell like a bunch of roses, but if it carries a stench that makes you want to pass out, something may be amiss.

“So many dog owners forget to check the condition of their pet’s teeth. Bad breath is often ‘brushed over’, when in fact, if left untreated, can lead to the deterioration of your dog’s health and standard of life,” said Ashleigh Sanderson, senior brand manager at Dog Portfolio.

Smelly breath can be a sign that your pooch suffers from gum disease and cavities. However, persistent bad breath can also indicate larger medical problems in the mouth, respiratory system, gastrointestinal tract, or internal organs, according to Pets WebMD

“Your dog uses his teeth for much more than just eating. He uses them where we would use our hands – to hold, carry and play,” said Sanderson, and this is why it’s important for a pet owner to get to the bottom of what’s causing the odour.

When to see the vet:

  • Breath that smells like urine can be a sign of kidney disease.
  • An unusually foul odour accompanied by vomiting, lack of appetite, and yellow-tinged corneas or gums could signal a liver problem.
  • Unusually sweet or fruity breath could indicate diabetes, particularly if your dog has been drinking and urinating more frequently than usual.

Some other underlying clues include red, inflamed or bleeding gums, a receding gum line and tooth root exposure, loose teeth, tartar build up and in severe cases, a change in eating behaviour – such as preferring softer foods or chewing more on one side of the mouth.

You can take an active role in your pet’s dental care by:

1. Brushing your pet’s teeth. It is recommended that all pets be trained early on to accept simple tooth brushing as part of their daily (at the very least, weekly) routine.

2. Regular dental cleanings by your vet. Your vet will carefully clean every tooth surface and remove plaque and tartar from hard-to-reach recesses below the gums and between teeth.

3. Ask for other dental care routines outside of brushing your dog’s teeth. For example, daily oral swishes and rinses, chew treats containing anti-plaque ingredients, and specialised teeth-cleaning diets.

Source: Huffington Post

Potty Training your Puppy

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Puppy potty-training often becomes an unnecessary burden to both puppies and their new parents. It creates stress for both parties and can also instil fear in your puppy which should be avoided at all costs. Here are some toilet-training tips that will ensure an easier, more pleasant journey to a house-trained pooch.

What it Takes for the Parent

House-training your fur baby requires immense amounts of patience and consistency on your part, as the parent. Showering them with positive reinforcement for favourable behaviour will also fortify the loving and trusting relationship between the both of you.

House-training can take between 4 – 6 months and in some cases, even up to a year so try to maintain a sense of humour throughout this sensitive process.

Size Matters

Smaller dogs tend to have faster metabolisms and obviously smaller-sized bladders than their larger counterparts, so they’ll need more frequent trips to relieve themselves.

Appropriate Age to Commence

12 – 16 weeks is considered a fitting age for a puppy to start learning where to do their business.

How to Commence

  • Maintain a regular feeding schedule for your puppy and don’t allow them any treats to snack on in between meals as this will set in cause for confusion.
  • Take your puppy outside onto the lawn immediately after a meal. Feeding generally stimulates the digestive system and puppies usually need to urinate approximately 15 minutes after eating. Mother Nature generally calls after your puppy has woken from a nap, so lead them outside to the same spot in the garden to do to their business.
  • Ensure your puppy has gone to the toilet just before you retreat to bed as well as just before you leave them alone for any amount of time.
  • Lead your pup to the same place to relieve themselves every time and stay with them until they’ve completed their task.
  • The most important thing is to make a fuss of your puppy with reassuring praises and scrumptious healthy treats.

Parental Blunders to Avoid

  • By punishing your puppy, you are not only causing them to fear you, which is unacceptable and damaging to the special bond between the two of you, but you’ll jeopardise all the hard work you’ve both put into the house-training process thus far.
  • Using ammonia-based cleaning products will only encourage your puppy to urinate again in the unsolicited area as the scent of these detergents resemble that of urine.
  • Rugs and carpets that bear a resemblance in texture to grass, should be either locked up or closed off from puppy’s reach until house-training is successfully achieved.
  • Set an alarm at intervals during the night to let your puppy outside to relieve themselves. They are too small and too young to go through the entire night without urinating.
  • Laziness on the parent’s part, especially in the middle of the night, is not an option when house-training. Your diligence and hard work will pay off and will swifly speed the process along.
  • Over feeding your pup or feeding them meals at the incorrect times will only stand to confuse them and put the whole system out of sync.
  • It’s unfair to leave your puppy alone for extended periods of time, thereby forcing them to relieve themselves indoors.
  • Exude a calm, patient and supportive attitude throughout the training process. Your intuitive little bundle of fur will pick up if you’re agitated, nervous and impatient with them and this will impede all you have both worked for

Remember that house-training is not a race! It requires patience and empathy from the parent and is also a wonderful opportunity to strengthen your bond with your puppy! By ignoring unfavourable behaviour and reinforcing positive behaviour through encouragement, praise and treats, you’ll be on your merry way to having a house-trained pup in no time!

Written for inFURmation
by Taliah Williamson