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Helpful Tips for Walking Your Dog

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Dog

Helpful Tips for Walking Your Dog

Before you got your pooch, you likely imagined walking a dog would be a wonderful experience of long relaxing strolls, exploring neighbourhoods and hiking trails. In those pre-dog fantasies, your four-legged sidekick likely trotted obediently by your side on a leash, following your every command and looking at you adoringly.

Then you got your dog and the fantasy disappeared. Why does my dog have to stop and pee on everything? Why does he have to stop and sniff every blade of grass? It can be frustrating, but don’t hang up the leash!

After all, walking a dog is important to their health and happiness. Walks keep your dog agile and limber and can help relieve issues like constipation, according to PetMD. Regular walks also help keep your dog from gaining unwanted kilos. Walking a dog can also go a long way toward reducing or eliminating destructive behaviour. Dogs who haven’t had enough exercise–who feel pent up or have extra energy–can turn to digging holes in your yard or chewing everything from your shoes to your couch cushions.

Walks with you also strengthen your bond with your pooch and give them a chance to meet and interact with other people and dogs in a controlled environment. Having a dog that is socialised is very important. Socialised dogs are typically happier and friendlier than unsocialised dogs, who can be anxious and fearful around new humans or animals.

And we haven’t even talked about how walking a dog impacts your health! A study from Michigan State University and reported by the New York Times found 60 percent of dog owners who took their pets for regular walks met the federal criteria for regular moderate or vigorous exercise, with almost half of dog walkers getting an average of 30 minutes of exercise a day at least five days a week. In comparison, only about 30 percent of people without dogs got that much regular exercise.

But what is with your pup’s strange habits on your walks? Let’s take a look at some weird (and annoying!) things dogs do on the leash, why they do them, and how you can work to reduce the issue.

Dog Peeing while Walking

Why your dog does it: Dogs are territorial, and urine is a natural way a dog can mark their territory. It communicates to other dogs that they have been there. Marking usually begins in puberty.

What to do: First, consult your vet. You want to make sure the fact that your dog stopping to relieve himself every few meters is, in fact, related to marking and not because of a health issue such as a bladder infection. If it’s a behavioural issue, you can train him to reduce his need to mark as much, but it might be impossible to get him to stop it all together. Also, dogs that have not been spayed or neutered have a larger tendency to mark territory than those that have.

Rolling in the Stink

Why your dog does it: When you encounter a dead animal, garbage, or anything else stinky, does your dog stop, drop, and roll? While it’s not known exactly why dogs have this disgusting habit, one train of thought is that it’s a trait inherited from wolves. They roll in the scent then take it back to their pack for further investigation.

Dog

What to do: Keep your pup leashed on walks (this is an important tip regardless of whether they like to roll in filth or not). Train them to recognise the command “leave it,” then reward with a treat when they do. Never pull hard on the leash to yank them away from the smelly object to avoid injuring your dog.

Pulling on the Leash

Why your dog does it: Because you’re moving too slow! Because you’re moving in the wrong direction! Because he wants to!

What to do: This behavioural issue can be fixed with proper training. Use treats and positive reinforcement to get your dog to follow your pace instead. If you have a dog that pulls, you can also try a head or body harness.. A harness may help keep your dog from pulling away from you while leashed while causing less stress on their neck or spine. Also, giving them less slack on the leash will help train them to stay close to you while walking. The more lead they have, the more they think that they have permission to explore the surrounding area causing them to pull on the leash.

Lying Down and Refusing to Move

Why your dog does it: They could be hurt, sick, or just plain tired.

What to do: Examine your dog. Are their paws rubbed raw? Is the cement too hot? Are they too hot? Let them rest and give them a drink. If that doesn’t work and there’s no obvious signs of injury, coax your buddy home with treats. Keep in mind your dog’s abilities and exercise needs before embarking. An English bulldog, for instance, will likely have much different walk expectations than a Labrador retriever. Never force walking. If they truly aren’t having it, come back and try again later. Forcing your pooch to walk when he doesn’t want to could lead to injury. If it becomes a chronic problem, consult your vet to see if there is a larger health issue of which you might not be aware.

Walking Back and Forth

Why your dog does it: A dog’s nose is much more powerful than yours. You can’t sniff all the exciting smells of other animals and humans that he does. He’s following scent trails when he’s zigging and zagging in front of you and probably not even noticing he’s tripping you.

What to do: Teach your dog to walk at a heel and on a certain side of your body. You can use verbal cues and treats to teach your dog how to walk nicely on a leash. However, a dog thoroughly enjoys sniffing so giving him an opportunity to do so when you’re both comfortable is a nice thing to do for your pup. Again, keeping the leash short and close to you will help reduce this behaviour and hopefully keep you from getting tripped up.

Biting the leash

Why your dog does it: Your dog is soooo excited that you’re taking them on a walk that they have to release that energy somewhere. Suddenly your leash becomes a tug-of-war toy.

What to do: Teach your dog to relax at the sight of his leash rather than get overly excited. VetStreet offers some tips like training him against being too rambunctious and rewarding him when he sits and stays nice and calm when you break out the leash.

Going on a walk is likely to be one of the highlights of your dog’s day. By training your pup and understanding why your dog does what he does, you can enjoy your daily rambles just as much as your dog does. Always keep in mind that a walk is just as important and fun for your dog as it is for you. So, while his habits might be a little annoying sometimes, understand that it’s also okay to let a dog be a dog… just maybe not roll in stinky things.

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Tips for Giving Your Cat Pills & Medications

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Cat

Tips for Giving Your Cat Pills & Medications

Being sick is no fun, especially when you have to take medicine in order to feel better. It’s no different for your furry friends. Whether for an illness or allergies, medicine for cats is sometimes required to improve their health.

Use these helpful tips on how to give your cat a pill to make the process less stressful for both of you, and help get her on her way back to feeling better.

Holding Your Cat

For some cats, simply being held can create stress. Approach your cat carefully, speaking to her in a gentle and soothing voice as you scoop her up. Wrap her in a towel or blanket, fully supporting her legs so they don’t dangle freely, which can make her feel uncomfortable and insecure, Marilyn Krieger shares with Petcha.

How to Give Your Cat a Pill

Medicine for cats usually comes in pill form. With medication in hand, keep this in mind: cats are smart creatures that don’t take kindly to changes in their routine, and they won’t make it easy on you. Unlike your dog, who will happily scarf a pill down in a spoonful of peanut butter, you’ll have to approach your cat in a calm but calculating way.

If you have a cooperative cat, try putting the pill directly in her mouth. Don’t toss the pill into her mouth because you run the risk of a choking hazard (or she’ll just spit it right back out at you). Instead, place it on the center of her tongue near the back of her mouth, then gently rub her throat to encourage the pill to go down, advises the ASPCA Pet Health Insurance. Offer her a fresh bowl of water to wash it down.

The “Meatball”

Another method for how to give your cat a pill requires a stealthier move than putting the medicine into her mouth. Start by hiding the pill in her usual food dish with her usual food. Wet or semi-moist cat food works best, but if your fur baby only eats kibble, you can give her the moist food when she takes the pill, making it an exciting treat.

Another is to hide the pill in a small ball of cat food. This game of hide-and-seek can be played with a pill hidden in her wet food that you form into a ball and present to your kitty as a fun snack.

If your cat refuses the pill in her food, you may be tempted to feed her people food, like tuna, to tempt her. However, many foods can cause gastrointestinal distress in cats. Always check with your veterinarian before giving non-pet food to your kitty.

Cat Food Gravy

If you’re looking for another option for how to give your cat a pill, you may be tempted to try crushing it into a powder form. But, as Animal Planet points out, “unless your vet recommends it, never crush or grind pills to put in food or water. Crushed medication can taste bitter, so your cat won’t get the full dosage.” Always get your vet’s express permission before administering medicine for cats this way.

You can crush the pill between two spoons or consider investing in a pill crusher/cutter at your local pharmacy. This tool makes crushing a little simpler and cleaner, as the medication is contained to the device.

Stir the crushed-up medication in a small portion of cat food gravy, which (hopefully) your kitty will lap up. The strong flavour of the gravy will tone down the gross taste of the pill. Never give your cat medication in milk, since many cats can’t digest dairy. If she refuses a spoonful of gravy, incorporate it into her regular food, either as a special topping for kibble or mixed with wet food.

Liquid Formula

When a cat refuses to take medication or if she can’t eat normally during her illness, the vet may prescribe the medicine in a liquid formula to be administered via syringe. Most forms of liquid medicine need to be kept refrigerated; however, cats are more likely to accept medicine that is at room temperature. Never microwave medication. You can warm it up by holding the syringe in your hand for a few minutes or submerging it in a cup of warm (not hot) water.

As noted earlier, hold your cat in a safe, comfortable way with the syringe in your dominant hand. Allow your kitty to lick the tip of the syringe so she can sample the medicine, then depress slowly on the plunger. Aim the stream of medicine toward the back of her throat, but be careful not to tilt her head back, warns Petful. This could cause her to inhale some of the liquid or choke.

Once the medicine is in her mouth, hold her mouth closed for a bit to make sure she swallows the liquid. Don’t worry if she spits out some of the medicine — it’s common. Even if some ends up on your lap, avoid remedicating her and wait until her next dosage is due.

Eye and Ear Drops

Sometimes, a cat needs to take eye or ear drops, particularly if she has allergies. Just as when you administer a pill or liquid formulas, you’ll need to hold your cat securely to administer them.

For eye drops, recommends Ernest Ward, DVM with the Newport Harbor Animal Hospital, place a hand on the top of the cat’s head (often best to come from above or below their head, rather than straight at their face so they don’t see it coming) “use the last two fingers of the same hand to pull back the upper eyelid. Place your remaining fingers under the cat’s jaw to support the head. The lower eyelid will act as a pouch to receive the drops.” Never touch the cat’s eye with the eye dropper or your fingers.

For ear drops, Dr. Ward says, “gently massage the base of the ear in a circular motion… You should hear a ‘squishing’ sound as you massage the medication deep into the ear canal.” Your cat won’t like either of these methods, but as with all medication for cats, it’s vital to her health

Injections

Certain illnesses, such as diabetes, require pet parents to inject medication under the skin. You’ll benefit from a second set of hands when giving shots, so enlist a helper to keep your pet in place with a towel or firm but gentle grip.

A cat can require a shot in the hip, neck or other site depending on the medication, so ask your vet to show you how and where you should give the injection. You will also need to know if the injection should go into a muscle, vein or a fold of skin. Always use a new needle for each dose and record the time and date of every shot.

After administering medication, give your kitty some extra snuggles. She also may want some alone time, so give her the time and space she needs if she wants to hide for a bit. Never throw a needle in the garbage when you’re finished. Dispose of it in an approved sharps container or bring it to your local pharmacy or veterinarian’s office.

If you suspect your cat is sick, first contact your vet to schedule a checkup and only give your pet the specific medicine prescribed by the doctor. You should never give your cat over-the-counter (OTC) medicines formulated for people (including eye drops), because many of these medications are hazardous to pets. These tips are intended to only be helpful thought starters. You should always have a conversation with your vet on the best course of action for administering medicine to your cat. Additionally, a thorough examination by a vet is the best course of action to correctly diagnose and treat your cat of any illnesses.

Whether it’s a short course of antibiotics or a lifelong means of managing a condition, medicine for cats is sometimes necessary. She may not thank you, but your kitty will be happy to be healthy!

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Blind Dogs

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Blind

Blind Dogs

  • Try not to move furniture around or leave obstacles on the floor
  • Remember we take things so much harder than they do and they also pick up on our emotions. So try to express “happy” emotions around your blind baby
  • Emphasize the senses they still have:
    • A blind dog/pup-their sense of smell, hearing, taste and touch
    • A blind/deaf dog-their sense of smell, taste and touch (they can feel  vibrations-especially when you walk). 
  • Ask people to let your dog “smell” their hand before touching them. Most blind dogs personalities don’t change. Some dogs however can easily become “startled” and this could also lead to fear biting in some dogs.
  • Try to treat them as normal as possible. Building their confidence is key to letting them know they can still do things and that you still love them….let them know they are still the same dog in your eyes. For a blind pup it can be the basis for what type of personality they will developed.
  • Coax, encourage and praise them to do the same things they did before. However, understand and still praise them if they “can’t”.
  • Be creative with different scents to mark areas for your blind babies–just make sure its safe for them. You can use different scents of flavored extracts or even something as simple as hanging a car air freshener or potpourri sachet on a door. Using different scented candles in each room may also help your dog distinguish from different rooms in your house
  • Use textured materials to mark areas. Throw rugs and decorative pillows are great (and people don’t even realize their “Real” purpose). Indoor/outdoor carpeting, wind chimes and something as simple as cedar chips or decorative bricks or blocks can help guide them along their way outside.
  • Use bells or jingling tags on your other dogs.. not only help your blind babies to find/follow your other dogs, but will also avoid them from being startled by your other dogs. You can also use bells on your shoes to help them find you
  • Don’t be afraid to walk with a “heavy foot” when approaching them especially with a blind/deaf baby….they can still feel vibrations.
  • Don’t under estimate the power of touching and massage.
  • Be very vocal with your dog.
  • A tabletop fountain can be used as a water bowl. Get a simple one with a large bowl and the sound of running water helps to orient the blind dog and helps him to find his water bowl as well as know where he is from the sound. Some dogs like drinking from running water too! This can be especially helpful if you have to move to a new home with a blind dog.

Source:  Friends of the dog

Giving a Cat a Bath: A How-To Guide

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Giving a Cat a Bath: A How-To Guide

Cats, especially curious kittens, can get into all sorts of messy and smelly situations as they explore their environment. They also have a well-known aversion to water. While it’s certainly true that cats are excellent groomers, in certain stinky and sticky cases, bathing your cat can become necessary. It’s can also be a great way to give her a healthy coat and healthy skin.

Whether you’re looking to pamper her or clean her up from her latest adventure, be sure to gather these supplies first and learn how to give your cat a bath to prepare for a positive cat bath experience for the both of you.

  1. Cat Handler – Although you may not think of another person as part of your must-have list, don’t underestimate the power of an assistant. VCA Animal Hospitals points out that “sometimes two hands isn’t enough when dealing with four paws,” so it’s recommended that you enlist a trusted friend or family member to help out. For obvious reasons, a fellow cat lover who understands how to properly handle a cat is best.
  2. Gloves and Protective Clothing – Washing your cat can be a contact sport, so you should prepare yourself with the right equipment. Thick, vinyl dishwashing gloves (you know, the yellow ones) will protect your hands and forearms. Long sleeves are a good idea, too. Basically, expose as little skin as possible just in case kitty reaches out to scratch. Pet parents also have been known to wear goggles due to excessive splashing.
  3. Towels – You’ll need one washcloth for your cat’s face and head, a second for her body and one big bath towel to wrap her up in afterward. Have extra towels on hand for the unexpected.
  4. Shampoo – You’ll find a wide range of cat shampoos at your local retailer or online. Read ingredient labels carefully, and, as VetStreet advises, do not buy shampoo meant for dogs or humans as it may irritate your kitty’s coat and skin. Some cat shampoos don’t require water but ask your veterinarian first to be sure this type of cleanser is appropriate for your cat, and that she doesn’t have any allergies to any of the included ingredients.
  5. Treats – Unless she’s a rare exception, your cat will not be very happy with you after bath time. It may be a good idea to have some of her favorite kibble on hand to reward her for getting through the experience.

cat

Let the Bath Begin
Once you have the right equipment within reach, you’re ready to start the bathing process. A bathtub or large sink with a gentle spray nozzle is best. If you don’t have a sprayer, you can place your cat in about 2 to 5 inches of water. Always use lukewarm water and carefully follow the shampoo directions. Gently wet and shampoo your kitty, starting with her face and avoiding her eyes, ears, and nose. For cleaning her body, you can use your fingers to lather her up, or a clean, separate washcloth.

When she’s soaped up, gently but thoroughly rinse her off with the lukewarm water (use a third clean washcloth for rinsing if no sprayer is available). Rinse out all the shampoo (again, steering clear of eyes, ears, and nose) to avoid irritation. She’ll groom herself for a long time afterward, and you don’t want her to lick any shampoo residue.

After the bath, wrap up your cat in a fluffy towel and dry her off, especially her paws (you don’t want wet cat prints all over the house), as much as she lets you. Both of you deserve a reward after a cat bath, so have a few pieces of her favorite kibble ready to thank her for cooperating and give her space–she probably won’t want to cuddle up in your lap right away. Let her come to you when she’s ready.

As PetMD points out, with patience, trust, and persistence, you can incorporate a bath into your cat’s care routine without too much fuss. Bathing your cat successfully isn’t just myth, and now you’re armed with the supplies and tips for giving your feline friend a good soak to keep her clean and shiny! But remember, bathing a cat doesn’t need to be a regular activity like it might be with dogs. Because cats are such excellent groomers, meticulously cleaning themselves, you will only need to give your cat a bath in unfortunate (and stinky) situations like if she gets sprayed by a skunk.

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Correctly remove ticks

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ticks

Correctly remove ticks

Due to the mild weather, ticks are now active almost all year round

The small arachnids love our dogs and cats as a source of food but they can transmit dangerous pathogens such as borreliosis, babesiosis, ehrlichiosis and TBE. In order to protect our pets, the tick should be removed as soon as it is discovered as these diseases can have fatal consequences. Not only does time play an important role in removing ticks, but also the aids you use.

Necessary aids
Before the tick is removed, the following aids should be available:

  • Tip Tweezers
  • Disposable gloves
  • Disinfectants
  • Treats

Gloves as a protective measure
Disposable gloves provide good protection against pathogens carried by ticks, which can enter the human bloodstream through injured skin.

Soothe dog and cat
In order to remove the tick quickly, the infected animal must remain calm. This is easier said than done as it’s not always easy to keep dogs and cats still, especially when they are subjected to an unusual ‘intervention’. Ideally, a second person should be present to help keep the animal still and calm or distracted with a few treats.

Animals must never be forced to keep still as some may become frightened or react aggressively if they cannot get away. If the animal is not still, there is also the added danger of only removing part of the tick, leaving the remainder under the skin.

Applying tweezers correctly
Tweezers with fine tips are recommended when removing ticks. They should be applied as close as possible to the animal’s skin without crushing it. The closer the tip of the tweezer is to the skin, the greater the chance of being able to pull out the entire tick.

Remove tick
The parasite must be fixed with an even pressure but do not squeeze the tick as this may cause it to release its infectious saliva into the dog or cat. Jerking or pulling out the tick, or – as was common in the past – twisting the tick, can be counterproductive as it may leave the head or mouthpiece (the proboscis) in the animal’s skin. It is better to pull the tick straight and upwards with a slow, even movement. A look at the area will show whether it has been completely removed. If part of the tick is still visible in the animal’s skin, a veterinarian should be consulted to remove the rest immediately.

Disinfecting the bite site
The bite site should be treated with a disinfectant recommended by the veterinarian for such purposes. Keepers must keep an eye on the affected area and on their animal. If the skin remains reddened and inflammation develops at the site, the animal must be seen by a veterinarian, especially if the affected dog or cat shows symptoms such as fever, fatigue or swollen lymph nodes, etc. Please ensure you dispose of the tick correctly by putting it in a sealed container and placing it in a suitable bin.

Protecting your own animal      
Measures should be taken to protect dogs and cats from tick bites; a veterinarian will be able to discuss which protection is most suitable for the individual animal.

Source: FOUR PAWS

Cat Cold – What to Do

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Cat

Cat Cold – What to Do

Tips for cat owners: how to help your feline friend recover

 

Colds – Triggers and symptoms
The common cold in cats describes diseases of the upper respiratory tract, the symptoms of which are usually caused by a virus or bacteria.1,2 Feline patients show similar signs of illness to humans with a cold, such as sneezing, sniffling, watery eyes, a runny nose and mild fever.3

How do cats catch a cold?
This primarily happens through infection. Animals that spend a lot of time outdoors and are more likely to meet other cats that are sick are primarily affected as well as house cats that live in close quarters with other cats.

A cat can catch a cold if its immune system is weakened. Immune deficiencies can be inherited or caused by stress, malnutrition, insufficient supply of mother’s milk, toxins, or serious illnesses such as cancer.4 In these cases, the body is unable to fight cold viruses.

The symptoms of a cat with a cold may include the following:

  • sniffles
  • sneezing 
  • nasal discharge
  • blocked nose
  • red, swollen or watery eyes
  • mild fever
  • ulcers on the lips, tongue, nose or oral cavity
  • fatigue
  • loss of appetite
  • increased need for rest and warmth
  • coughing
  • increased salivation

How to care for your sick cat
You can help your furry friend recover by providing a cosy and warm environment and encouraging plenty of rest. Gently clean their nose and eyes with a soft, warm and damp cloth. A humidifier (without essential oils!) can relieve nasal congestion and irritation of the airways.

To strengthen the immune system, you can offer your pet food supplements that are enriched with important nutrients and vitamins among other things.6 Be sure to consult your vet about this.

Under your loving care, your house cat should recover within a few days.

Pay attention to eating and drinking
Depending on the severity of the disease, affected cats tend to eat and drink less because they have problems with their sense of smell and taste.1 Test what wet food your pet still eats and offer it to them warmed up. You need to make sure that your cat continues to eat. You can also mix some water into the food to ensure that your pet does not become dehydrated.

Cat

When a vet should be consulted
Cats with a cold can recover in a short time (approx. 5 – 10). Monitor your pet’s health and overall condition carefully. If you notice little or no improvement or a worsening of the condition within a few days, make an appointment with your vet. It cannot be ruled out that your cat may develop a more serious condition, like pneumonia, for example.7

Pay attention to the following warning signs:

  • Your cat has not eaten for more than 24 hours
  • It is dehydrated because it is no longer drinking or is not drinking enough
  • There is green or yellow discharge from their nose
  • It has breathing difficulties
  • The animal vomits or has diarrhoea that lasts longer than 24 hours
  • Your pet is no longer responsive
  • A word of caution

Never give your cat medicine for humans! Medicines are only given by the vet and only when they are necessary.

Source: FOUR PAWS

TIPS: How to test if your dog is dehydrated

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Dog

TIPS: How to test if your dog is dehydrated

Beat the heat with our summer tips for your pets. We must remember that just like us, our pets, especially dogs, can get dehydrated.  

Early signs of dehydration are a dry mouth, sunken eyes, and a loss of elasticity in their skin. Severe dehydration can lead to organ failure and even death. Know what to do and what to look out for.

Here’s how to test if your dog is dehydrated:

  • Softly pinch a piece of their skin on their back between two fingers for a few seconds and see how quickly it returns to its normal state.  If it does not fall back to normal, your dog is dehydrated.

OR

  • Press your finger on their gums for a few seconds and remove it again.  If it takes a long time for the white to return to the natural pink colour, then your dog is dehydrated.

How can we ensure our furry friends stay hydrated?

  • Provide them with lots of fresh water by leaving many water bowls and or places to access safe and clean water.
  • Water bowls should be in a shaded area so that it doesn’t evaporate too quickly or get hot from the sun.
  • You can cool your pets’ water by putting ice blocks in their bowls.

How to design a Garden for your Cat

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Cat

How to design a Garden for your Cat

Words of advice for cat owners: Tips for a cat-friendly garden

Cats like to explore their surroundings, and fences and walls cannot prevent this. For them, roaming freely through the garden is the most species-appropriate behaviour imaginable. Essentially, what they need is to monitor their turf regularly, to mount expeditions and above all to act out their natural urges and instincts.  

If you want to prevent your cat from going beyond the boundaries of your own garden (e.g. because of a particularly dangerous road), a special cat fence can help. This might be made of a material your cat will not be able to scale (e.g. plastic or Plexiglas) or it might have an extension at the top that skews back inwards (also made of plastic or similar), making it harder for a cat to climb over. In any event, a cat fence definitely has to be very high. Trees, or other plants cats can climb up, should never be planted around the borders of your garden. If you already have a tree there, the solution is to fix a fairly wide plastic shield around the trunk to stop the cat climbing up it.

Unlike dogs, cats cannot be trained not to do their business in your vegetable bed or flower bed; to them, the loose earth pretty much constitutes an invitation. Here, it helps to mulch the soil with natural materials with long fibres, such as dry bark mulch or chopped twigs.

Vegetable beds can be protected by bordering them with plants which have a scent disagreeable to cats – Balkan cranesbill, for example, or common rue or wormwood. Not all animals will react to the same plants, so it is best to find out first by trial and error what will deter your cat. 

Further tips for cat-proofing your garden: 

  • Sandpits should always be kept covered when your children are not using them. 
  • To stop your cat getting into the habit of visiting a neighbouring garden to do its business, a sandy area or small pile of sand should be provided on your own property and the dried faeces removed every now and then with a rake. 
  • Cats sharpen their claws, which may cause fruit trees or other young or delicate trees to shrink if their bark is badly damaged. This can be prevented by wrapping the relevant tree trunk in a scratching mat as tall as the cat itself. You can also protect your trees from harm by placing a few home-made scratching trees in the garden. 
  • Rain barrels must be covered with a secure, properly fitting lid. This is essential to prevent cats drowning in them. 

Please consider having your cat neutered

Domestic cats that have not been neutered are the main cause of the excessive proliferation of strays. Sadly, cats are still being shot, poisoned, beaten to death, drowned or killed by other methods in order to curb the number of strays. Only by neutering your own cat and supporting projects for neutering stray animals can you help prevent this suffering!  

Source: FOUR PAWS

TIPS: What should you do if you see a dog in a hot car?

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TIPS: What should you do if you see a dog in a hot car?

Leaving dogs in a car is a serious form of animal cruelty.

In a matter of a few minutes, the sun’s rays can quickly turn the vehicle into a death trap. Parking in the shade is also not an option! You wouldn’t leave your child alone in a car, so why leave your dog?

So what should you do if you see a dog in a hot car?

  • Search for the driver, ask in nearby shops, ask people nearby, ask the car guard or security in the area.
  • Call the local SPCA and law enforcement immediately so that they can assist in assessing the situation, the condition of the animal, and can take further steps in helping the animal within the parameters of the law.
  • Take a video/photos where you include the position of the car, a temperature reading if possible, any witnesses (car guards or security), the dog through the window, the number plate and the license disc.
  • If the dog is salivating, looks about to collapse, vomiting or having seizures then move quickly, you might not have a lot of time left .
  • If you do get the dog out of the hot car, make sure the dog is kept in an upright standing position to allow cool air to flow under its stomach area and pour cool water over the dog’s body. A dog with signs of heatstroke (like mentioned in 4️.) should get to a vet immediately.

We can all #LiveKinder. Let’s be kinder in what we eat, kinder in what we do and kinder in how we treat animals and the planet…

Source: FOUR PAWS

No hot dogs, please!

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dog

No hot dogs, please!

Every summer there are cases of dogs dying after being left locked in a car for ‘just a minute’ while their owners pop into a store or run an errand. This is a tragedy that should never occur.

Durban summers can be brutal but even when the temperature is a comfortable 22º, inside a parked car it can soar to 47º within an hour. Humans can sweat to regulate body temperature, but dogs can only cool themselves by panting. Those with thick fur or short skulls (brachycephalic breeds) are particularly susceptible to heatstroke; they can suffer brain damage or die from heatstroke in just 15 minutes.

Signs of heatstroke in dogs

In the early stages, dogs may be unusually thirsty and pant a lot. Without intervention, they may become too weak or exhausted to move, or may collapse during a walk in the heat. Look out for these warning signs:

  • Excessive panting and drooling, often with very thick saliva
  • Dizziness – your dog may not be able to walk properly, or he may collapse
  • Vomiting and diarrhoea
  • Muscle spasms or seizures
  • Loss of consciousness

Left untreated, your dog could suffer organ damage and die. This can happen quite suddenly and without much warning, so you need to be aware of how your dog is coping in the heat of summer.

What to do if you suspect your dog has heatstroke

You’ll need to bring down your dog’s temperature and make sure he’s properly hydrated. First, remove him from the hot environment. If he’s unable to move, carry him to shady spot in the garden or take him inside, especially if you have air conditioning or cool tiled flooring.

Wet the dog’s coat with water from a bucket or hosepipe. If you have a fan, let it blow over the damp skin. Don’t plunge the dog into a bath of ice-cold water, which may result in shock or cause blood vessels to constrict too rapidly.

If he’s lying outside, you can also wet the ground around him, or have him lie on a wet towel. But don’t cover him with the towel, as this prevents heat from escaping.

Place his water bowl within easy reach and top up as often as necessary.

When to see the vet

If there’s no improvement, or the dog’s condition worsens, get him to a vet as soon as possible. Your dog may need intensive care and treatment with intravenous fluids, oxygen, nausea and diarrhoea meds, pain meds, cardiac meds or antibiotics to help him recover.

Other tips to keep your dog safe in summer

  • Don’t walk your dog on hot cement, sand or tar.
  • Opt for early morning or late afternoon walks.
  • Apply sunblock to your dog’s ears and nose, especially if he has a white coat.
  • Put an ice cube in your dog’s water bowl and be sure to top it up throughout the day.
  • If your dog lives outside, provide a shady area.
  • If your dog is struggling in the heat, hose him down with cool water.
  • Never keep a dog in a garage or shed on a hot day.

What about cats? Can they also get heatstroke?

Although heatstroke is less common in cats, it is possible in very hot weather. If your cat is able to move freely from inside to outside the house, they will unerringly find the coolest spot, and stretch out instead of curling up to keep themselves cool.

However, if they are enclosed in a small, hot room, they may not be able to escape the heat. Older, pregnant or overweight cats, and those with chronic conditions, are more at risk.

Unlike dogs, cats don’t usually pant to cool themselves down. They cool themselves by licking their fur; as the saliva evaporates, it provides a cooling effect. Symptoms of heatstroke in cats are similar to those in dogs. Your cat may even pant, which is not normal behaviour.

Even though most cats dislike water, the best treatment is wetting their fur and offering plenty of water. If your cat doesn’t seem interested in drinking water, feed wet food rather than nibbles, or add water to their dry food.

As a pet owner, the best way of keeping your furbabies safe from the summer heat is to be aware of how heat may affect them, and take steps to ensure they are cool and comfortable.

Source: Durban & Coast SPCA