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Tips on Brushing Your Feline Friend’s Teeth

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  • Brushing a cat’s teeth is a challenging task to say the least, so starting earlier than later in their lives is advantageous to you both
  • Cat’s generally don’t enjoy having their mouths touched so first get them accustomed to it by lifting their lips and exposing their teeth daily
  • Ease your cat into their favourite resting place whilst you brush their teeth. This could be on a particular piece of furniture or even on your lap
  • Use a specially designed cat toothbrush with soft bristles. A child’s toothbrush will also do. Alternatively, you could use a finger toothbrush or a cotton swab
  • Never use human toothpaste, baking soda or salt to brush your cat’s teeth. Use toothpaste especially designed for cats. They come in feline-friendly flavours to make the experience more palatable for your feline friend
  • Give your cat a tiny taste of the toothpaste a few days prior to the initial tooth-brushing session
  • Raise your cat’s lip to reveal their gums and teeth
  • Gently brush in movements like you would a child or your own teeth
  • Most cats won’t permit you near their inside teeth so focus on brushing the outer surfaces of the gums and teeth
  • The canines and back upper molars are prone to tartar accumulation so don’t overlook these in a brushing ​session
  • Once your cat is familiar with the brushing process, aim to maintain a daily brushing routine
  • Reward you cat for his patience and cooperation with a dental friendly, tartar-reducing treat after the brushing session


Written for inFURmation
by Taliah Williamson

Tips & Methods for Switching Dog Foods

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Tips & Methods for Switching Dog Foods

It is important that your dog switch dog food gradually from his current dog food to avoid digestive upset or tummy trouble.

To transition, mix your dog’s current food with his new food. Over 7 days, gradually decrease the amount of the current dog food while increasing the amount of new dog food.

To help you with the switch and dog food transition, refer to the 7-Day Transition Schedule below.

Remember these tips when switching your dog’s food:

  • Puppies become adults at 12 months of age and should transition to an adult dog food to ensure they are receiving proper nutrient levels for adult dogs.
  • Large breed puppies and small breed puppies should switch to a large breed or small breed adult dog food to ensure that their special needs are met.
  • For small and medium size dogs who are older, about the age of 7, they should transition to a mature adult or senior dog food that ensures that they are receiving the appropriate level of nutrients for that older lifestage.
  • For large breed dogs that are around 5 years of age, their food should switch to a mature adult or senior large breed dog food so that their special nutrient requirements are met.
  • Pregnant or nursing dogs need energy-dense foods with increased calcium content so be sure to transition them during this special time to a puppy food. However, during pregnancy or nursing, large breed dogs should be switched to a regular puppy food, not a large breed puppy food.

If your veterinarian has recommended a therapeutic dog food for a specific health condition, please be sure to discuss transitioning in detail. There could be some special considerations and suggestions to ensure success.

Source: Hills

Website: www.hillspet.co.za

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What If My Cat Doesn’t Want To Eat?

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WHat if my cat doesnt want to eat?

How you can encourage a reluctant eater.
Last week we looked at some tips for when your cat is reluctant to drink and today we will look at some tips for reluctant eaters.  Cats’ ancestral diet was moisture-rich prey which helps meet their fluid requirements, so feeding your cat dry food only, which is <10% water, can create a problem.  It can cause chronic dehydration, leading to constipation and kidney stress, which is why vets recommend feeding cats moisture-rich diets. One of the first signs that a feline family member is sick is a lack of appetite. Cats can’t go without food for very long due to the risk of hepatic lipidosis, so it’s important to address the problem quickly.

TWO MAIN REASONS WHY YOUR CAT MIGHT NOT BE EATING.

  1. STRESS

Cats who are stressed can lose their appetite. Has something in your cat’s life changed?

  • New family members (human or animal)?
  • Have you moved?
  • Sometimes it can be too few resources or the placement thereof. We suggest a water and food bowl for each cat plus an extra one, as well as with the litter box and neither the bowls or the litter box should be placed close to the other.

This is a situation pet parents can often resolve without consulting a veterinarian.

2. UNDERLYING ILLNESS

Several underlying diseases can cause kitties to lose interest in eating and it’s important to contact your veterinarian right away if you suspect your cat is ill. Remember not all vets are good with cats, so find one with a special interests in cats.

TIPS TO TEMPT KITTY’S TASTEBUDS (Dr. Karen Becker & The Cat Nurse)
There are things you can do to try to entice your cat to eat; however, veterinary intervention is necessary if, despite your best efforts, your cat isn’t eating. Helping a cat who is refusing to eat stay nourished is an exercise in creativity, gentle prodding, and patience.

  • Warm her meals to bring out the aroma as cats respond to the smell of food before the taste.
  • Lure her with species-appropriate “people food” she has enjoyed in the past, for example, warm baked chicken or salmon.
  • Offer her canned food with a strong smell or a sardine (packed in water).
  • Buy a small selection of different flavours and textures of canned cat food or use home-cooked meat or bone broth and see if one catches her interest.
  • If she’s hooked on kibble and refuses everything else, try adding warm water to the food or an aromatic enticement like tuna juice or chicken broth.
  • Double bowls tend to be small, quite deep and are of course joined together, which could risk aggravating your cat’s sensitive whiskers. Try using a large flat bowl that gives plenty of room for your cat’s whiskers. Offer new food from a paper plate (in case she associates a bad memory with her food bowl). Whisker fatigue plays a role if the bowl is too small or deep.
  • If you are changing your cat’s food bowl, offer food in the old bowl and original location as well as using the new bowl and in a slightly different location. This allows your cat to have a choice. You can then remove the old bowl once your cat starts using the new one.
  • Raised bowls can help encourage some cats to eat. This means that your cat doesn’t have to dip its head down into the bowl to eat or drink, meaning he/she can still keep watch for any threats. Consider raising the bowl, especially if your cat is elderly and/or has arthritis as it may be more comfortable for your cat to eat that way (less pressure on its joints and less flexion of the neck). 
  • Consider offering food in ceramic or glass bowls. Plastic holds odours and metal is reflective.
  • Keep the food and water stations separate. Being survivalists, cats like to eat in one place and drink in another. Cats living in the wild do this to prevent food (blood and tissue from prey) from contaminating their water (a sick cat is a vulnerable cat) and because it helps to keep the location of their food (and them) a secret.

STILL NOT EATING?
If despite your best efforts you can’t get sufficient calories into your cat, call your veterinarian, who may prescribe an appetite stimulant, a homeopathic remedy, or a vitamin B12 injection.

5 TIPS FOR STRESS-FREE FELINE DINING IN GENERAL (Dr. Karen Becker)

  • Offer food in a variety of ways that gives your cat more control over her environment. When possible, feed smaller, frequent meals throughout the day, instead of two larger meals. Use food puzzles, hunting feeders, or other novel methods that encourage her to actively look for food and burn calories in the process.
  • In a multi-cat household, feed everyone separately. Establish multiple feeding locations that provide solitary access to food. Food puzzles, hunting feeders and regular bowls/saucers containing small amounts of food can be placed in different spots around the house to help satisfy the natural feline desire to dine in different locations. It also encourages cats to spend time hunting for food and allows them to be in control of their food intake.
  • If feasible, feed your kitty from an elevated location, since cats tend to feel safer in high spots where they can see what’s going on around them. These platforms should only be large enough for one cat. Do not put their bowls in a corner as they feel safer when they can view the area for threats, as in nature.
  • Try to place your cat’s food in areas with minimal human activity and away from loud noises and visual threats like a window where your kitty might catch a glimpse of another cat outside.
  • Put food in locations that encourage climbing and set aside time to play with your cat each day, which will provide him with both physical and mental stimulation.

CHECK THE POOP
It sounds weird to some, but it is important to regularly check their poop as it can indicate health concerns. Watch this video about it. Urine is discussed with drinking in last weeks’ article.

Keep your cat healthy and fed by following these tips.   Next week we will look at post-operative care for your pet.

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin
Website: www.thebulletin.co.za

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Cleaning Your Dog’s Paws: Tips for Success

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Cleaning Your Dogs Paws Tips for Success

You know your dog needs to be groomed regularly, but did you know that cleaning your dog’s paws is an important part of their grooming routine? On daily walks and romps in the yard, your pup’s feet are exposed to rough surfaces, wet ground, dirt and debris.

And the pads on the bottom of your pup’s paws serve an important purpose. As the ASPCA explains, they “provide extra cushioning to help protect bones and joints from shock, provide insulation against extreme weather, aid walking on rough ground and protect tissue deep within the paw.”

If paw cleaning isn’t already part of your dog care regimen, here’s how to get started.

How Often Should You Clean Your Dog’s Paws?
Unlike bathing your dog, which the ASPCA recommends you do at least every three months, there aren’t specific guidelines for how often dog paw cleaning should occur. However, consider checking your dog’s paws on a regular basis. Depending on their level of exercise and the season (harsh summers and winters can be tough on your pet’s paws), you can adjust the schedule to fit your pup’s needs. If you frequently take your dog hiking, for example, you may need to check and wash their paws after every trip to the trails. On the other hand, a pooch who spends most of their time indoors and just goes on light neighbourhood walks might only need a cleaning when the weather is bad and their paws get dirty or wet.

Cleaning Your Dogs Paws Tips for Success-2

Preparing for a Dog Paw Cleaning
It’s important to check your dog’s paws before lathering them up. Often, debris gets stuck between the paw pads or in toenails.

Look for anything that doesn’t belong on your dog’s paw, such as minuscule pebbles or broken pieces of glass, shells or other material. You’ll also want to look for splinters or anything embedded into your dog’s nails or paw pads. If you find anything, remove it carefully.

Next, if you have a medium or long haired dog, take a moment to trim the hair on the bottoms of your dog’s paws so it doesn’t get matted; this can help them stay clean and prevent dirt from sticking. The hair should be approximately as long as the pads.

Cleaning Your Dog’s Feet
If you’ve bathed your dog before, you’ll find it simple to do a dog paw cleaning. After checking your pup’s paws and trimming their hair, wet their feet, lather with mild dog shampoo and rinse. Don’t forget to keep a towel nearby to dry your pet’s paws, so they don’t slip or leave wet footprints around your house.

If you want to do a routine dog paw cleaning after a quick walk, just gently wipe the paws with a washcloth and water. As an even more convenient option, the American Kennel Club recommends using moist wipes that are safe for dogs.

Don’t forget to trim your dog’s nails and dewclaws (the extra nails on the sides of their paws) if they need trimming; nails should end just before touching the ground. If you hear any clicking when your dog walks, that’s a key sign their nails are too long. If you’re not comfortable doing this yourself, be sure to ask a professional groomer or your vet to do this at their next appointment.

Cleaning your dog’s feet is just one small aspect of being a dog parent, but it’s also a great opportunity to build your bond with your dog and remind them you’ll always be there to take care of them.

Source: Hills

Website: www.hillspet.co.za

Need a Vet?
Search our Vet Directory!

Did you know this about your pets and their needs?

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Did you know this about your pets and their needs?

Some interesting and important tips to improve the lives of your animals!

As pet owners, we are entrusted with the well-being of our furry companions. It’s crucial to remember that just because a product is sold in a pet store or recommended by a veterinarian doesn’t guarantee its safety or suitability for our pets. We are their advocates, and it’s our responsibility to do thorough research and consult trusted professionals to ensure their health and happiness. I cannot cover every single topic here today, but I have included some of my favourites which I have learned through the years and wish I had learned earlier.

How many of these do you know about? Every topic we touch on here can be found in more detail on THE PAW COMPANY’s page. You can just add the keywords in the search option on the page. 

Choosing the Right Fit

Before welcoming a pet into your home, it’s essential to do your homework. It is not just about how the dog looks and never should be. Consider factors like energy levels and compatibility with your family’s lifestyle to ensure a harmonious bond between you and your furry friend.

Adoption

Adoption stands as the most ethical choice when bringing a pet into your family. Opting for adoption helps combat the overwhelming overpopulation crisis facing animals worldwide, offering a loving home to those in need. It has many benefits and is inexpensive compared to buying a pet or even getting one for free.

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Choosing a veterinarian

Understanding that veterinarians are akin to general practitioners was an important realization for me. They are also not specialist in any particular organ like the heart, are not orthopedic specialists, or have expertise in every disease, including diseases like diabetes or cancer. 

While they can offer immediate assistance in emergencies, owners of exotic pets such as rabbits, birds, and reptiles should seek specialized care from veterinarians with expertise in these unique species to ensure tailored and effective treatment. Even when it comes to sterilizations they are not always equipped to deal with all animals.  Please do your homework about the vet you use and SA certainly needs more vets that act preventatively instead of just putting out fires.

Expecting too much from our pets

Expecting a dog to seamlessly integrate into our lives with a laundry list of expectations may be unrealistic. Dogs don’t inherently understand our world’s intricacies, and it’s our responsibility to gently teach them. Puppies, especially, require patience and consistent training to grasp our rules and routines. Frustration often arises when owners overlook the significant time and effort needed in the first months of a puppy’s life (or any animal’s life).

Despite the challenges, it’s essential to remember that animals don’t choose their circumstances and rely on us for guidance. Reflecting on their perspective can foster empathy and reinforce the importance of patience and understanding in building a strong bond with our furry companions. It is especially important when it comes to their mental health and understanding their emotions as sentient beings.

Enrichment Beyond Basics

Providing for your pets goes beyond the essentials of food, water, and affection. Enrichment activities and species-appropriate diets, tailored to their species-specific needs are vital for their mental and physical well-being.

Some dogs were bred to use their noses and some for agility and more. Understanding your pet’s breed or species is crucial when selecting appropriate toys and activities. Engaging in species-specific games and providing safe, suitable toys ensures a fulfilling playtime experience for your pet.

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Choosing toys

Many of the most popular toys at pet stores or even vet shops contain dyes, heavy metals, and chemical residues that are harmful to pets, and a safe label on the toys’ packaging cannot tell you that it’s completely harmless. Here are 3 things to remember when choosing toys to ensure your pet’s safety:

  • Look for appropriately sized toys that your pet can comfortably hold in their mouth, but not small enough for them to accidentally swallow.
  • Choose toys made out of 100% natural rubber, organic cotton, or other eco-friendly and contaminant-free materials.
  • Avoid toys with bright colours and chemical smells, as well as those are usually made from nylon or flavoured plastic.

Socialization and Companionship

Recognize the importance of socialization for your pet’s overall happiness. While some animals thrive in the company of others, some may prefer solo play or interaction with their human companions.

Socialization is NOT about animals playing with each other although it is an important skill.  It is about safe exposure to a wide variety of stimuli so they can learn to act calm and confident around many people, animals, and things and in many different situations.

Stay with mom until 8-12 weeks

We in animal welfare do not support breeding when there is a massive overpopulation crisis!  We don’t support the selling or giving away of animals for free and I have written extensively about it before.  However, a bad practice that has been rearing its head for a while now is these breeders (anyone who allowed their animals to have litters) who give these pups and kittens away around 3 to 6 weeks.

These pups/kittens learn valuable behavioural info from mom too. Other problems commonly found with removing these pups/kittens early include being unable to problem-solve calmly, low tolerance for frustration, poor social skills, poor impulse control, and sensitivity to touch and handling.

Rescues doesn’t have this luxury though because many times these babies are dumped or the mom dies. If you have a very young pup or kitten, plan on doing extra behaviour modification work to help them overcome their early social deprivation – lots of interaction with socially appropriate animals, conditioning to handling, redirecting their mouth to toys, and teaching them to bite only gently.

Training

If you don’t train them, don’t blame them. Remember that there are basically three sectors involved in dog training and behavior, what to look for and who to go to depending on your needs are with your dog.

  • Dog Trainer
  • Dog Behaviour Consultant / Behaviourist
  • Veterinary Behaviourist

Barking and other Natural Behaviour

Dogs bark. It is a natural behaviour and a way of communicating.  Yes, excessive barking is not good, but you need to find out why the dog is barking and address the underlying reason, whether it is boredom, fear, trying to get your attention, or something else.
Accepting natural behaviors in dogs and animals, like barking, humping, digging, and licking, is crucial for understanding their instincts and needs. Barking communicates various emotions, humping can be a form of energy release, digging satisfies natural urges, and licking serves as a form of affection and grooming for example. Recognizing and embracing these behaviors strengthens the bond between humans and animals.

Dog bite prevention

Dog bites are 100% preventable, but all we need are responsible pet guardians. If it is a dog bite in a public area, it usually includes an owner who didn’t secure their yard properly.  For that, we need more accountability, but when it comes to dog bites in your own yard or including your children then know this:  Dogs do not bite out of the blue, there were many calming signals and signs the dog gave you before they bite. This includes subtle signs like licking, yawning, whale eye, lifting a paw, and more.  Learn to read body language well to protect them, other animals and humans.

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NEVER PUNISH A GROWL – Growls are one way the dog communicates that they need help.  If you punish it, then they will skip the growl next time and go straight to a bite.

Safety and Comfort

Creating a safe space within your home where your pet feels secure is paramount. We will only remove ours from their safe space in case of an emergency. Prioritize their well-being by safeguarding them from potential dangers and providing a comfortable environment.

Letting them sleep inside is one way you can help protect them because they shouldn’t be used to protect you. Great if they can warn you, but you are responsible for protecting them from the dangers of this world, including securing your yard so that they can’t get injured or lost.

Nutritional Awareness

Here I will stop a little longer as very few people consider this topic! Food can do one of two things heal or harm.  You have to question the prevalent notion that processed kibble is the healthiest option for your pet. Consider exploring alternative diets (raw, gently cooked etc.) and consulting with professionals to ensure optimal nutrition for your furry friend. I always try to find pet food that are human grade with lower carbs as most pet food are feed grade, meaning that it is not fit for human consumption.

50 years ago veterinarians saw patients primarily for acute injuries and infectious diseases. These days, most patients they see are suffering from gastrointestinal (GI) problems, allergies and skin issues, musculoskeletal issues, and organ dysfunction. As someone who studied nutrition, I can’t help but question the role of the diet in this problem. The vet profession seem to be the the only medical professionals that says: “eat more processed food”, meaning kibble.

Search “can my dog eat this” on The Paw Company’s page to learn more about this topic.

Storage – Try to avoid using a plastic container to store kibble. However, if you already purchased the container, keep the food in its original bag and place that bag into the plastic container. This will help keep too much oxygen away from degrading the kibble. Do not buy in bulk as kibble after being opened loses nutritional value. Only buy what you can use in 30 days.

Food and water – Did you know that cats in nature do not eat where they drink due to possible contamination of their water source?  Therefore make sure the food and water are not next to each other.  In addition, you should have a water bowl and food bowl for each cat/dog as well as separate litterboxes for each cat. Even an extra one as some experts suggest.

If you drink filtered water because you are scared of the harms of tap water, why do you give tap water to your pets?

New food should be changed slowly at least over a week mixing in 25% of new food in old food, then 50%, 75%, and then only 100%.

Poop – Did you know their poop can tell you about their health!  We do regular poop patrols at home. Those who consume kibble have larger amounts of poop and they tend to be more stinky. This is likely due to the digestability of the food. When you go to the vet, give them some feedback on the latest poop or even consider taking a sample with.

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Choosing bowls

Every type of bowl can have its pros & cons!  It is your responsibility to do the research for your pet’s needs and health. Take into account the size of the pet, their mouth shape, length of ears, health, and even temperament. Choosing the right material for the bowl. Plastic, Ceramic, or Stainless steel are the 3 popular choices. Each has its pros and cons, but I prefer stainless steel bowls.

Here are some additional tips about bowls:

  • Try using a large flat bowl that gives plenty of room. This can also avoid whisker fatigue for cats and dogs.
  • Consider raising the bowl if your pet is elderly and/or has arthritis or has some digestive issues, as it may be more comfortable for your pets to eat that way.
  • Non-slip flooring so the bowl doesn’t move around. 
  • The area where the bowls are located, they should be shaded to not heat the water and away from contaminating environments. The pet should also not feel “trapped” when eating. 
  • Although eating is a social experience for humans, it should be a sole dining experience for your pets. Do not put bowls too close to each other.
  • Wash your pet’s bowls daily.  You don’t want to eat out of a dirty bowl every day, do you?
  • Don’t forget travel bowls.
  • If you are changing your pet’s food bowl, offer food in the old bowl and original location as well as use the new bowl in a slightly different location. This allows your pet to have a choice. You can then remove the old bowl once your pet starts using the new one.

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Choosing beds

When choosing a bed for your pets, consider their size, sleeping habits, and any special needs they may have. Opt for materials that are durable, easy to clean, and provide adequate support for their joints. Do clean their bedding regularly, at least as often as you change yours.

Microchip Registration

Your microchip only contains an ID number.  If you do not register your pet’s microchip on multiple databases, then the chip is useless as it can’t link anywhere with your details. The large search databases are also not required to share any data (we are working on that), so even if registered on one platform, it doesn’t mean it will come up on another platform.  Always keep the details updated and let the vet check if it is still working with your annual vet visits.

Exercise Needs

While walking is beneficial, it often falls short of meeting a dog’s exercise requirements. Most dogs need at least 20 minutes of heart-pumping exercise every day to maintain optimal health and vitality. That is however not the only exercise they need.

Toxic dangers in your home

Be mindful of the numerous household products that pose risks to your pet’s health. From cleaning chemicals, pesticides, gardening products, parfume, scented candles, to non-stick cookware, and more, take precautions to limit their exposure to potentially harmful substances.

Appropriate Gear Selection

When selecting harnesses and apparel for your pet, prioritize their comfort and mobility. Opt for harnesses that allow for natural shoulder blade movement, promoting unrestricted leg movement and overall well-being. I don’t use collars, only harnesses attached to their leash and always a Y-harness (in front) with lots of space over the shoulder blades.

Euthanasia and pet loss and the grief that accompanies it

Making that dreadful decision is not one I wish on anyone, but please do not let your pet suffer because of your feelings around it, and never leave them alone with basically a stranger in those last moments.  I will always do it rather too early than wait a day too long to ease their suffering. 

Loss is loss and grief is grief.  Do not let anyone diminish the loss you experience when you lose a beloved furry, finned, or scaled animal.   Do reach out to people who can help you with that grief and be kind to yourself. Remember that pets can grieve too!

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Pet emergency plan and your Will

Including your beloved pets in your will and having an emergency plan for them is of paramount importance for their well-being and security. Pets are cherished members of the family, and ensuring their care after your passing or in times of unforeseen circumstances is a responsibility every pet owner should prioritize. Designating a caregiver in your will, setting aside funds for their upkeep, and outlining their specific needs in an emergency plan provide peace of mind, safeguarding their future and ensuring they continue to receive the love and care they deserve.

Remember that any animal who becomes a nuisance to you was failed by a human.

As pet owners, we hold a profound responsibility to prioritize the welfare of our animal companions. Remember, they didn’t choose to live with us; we chose to bring them into our lives and it is our moral duty to help them cope in this human world.  Let’s ensure we fulfill this responsibility with compassion, knowledge, and dedication.

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin

Senior pet tips

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Tips

Senior pet tips

Handy tips to help your senior pet

  • The following senior-specific tips will repay the loyalty and companionship your pet has shown over the years:
  • Help them reach their food better by raising their bowls off the floor.
  • Give your pet the opportunity for regular exercise to help preserve muscle tone and to keep bones and joints strong. Remember, your senior pet is slowing down, so make sure the exercise is less strenuous – easy relaxed walks are great!
  • Consider using a ramp to help them get into difficult areas, for example the car.
  • Be on the look out for new inventions such as paw gel pads or booties which help provide traction for unstable dogs or slippery floors.
  • Because senior pets are often less active, inspect your pet’s nails on a regular basis and trim them when necessary.
  • Don’t overlook your pet’s dental health. Have your pet’s teeth cleaned by your veterinarian when advised as bad teeth can have serious health consequences for older pets.
  • Keep your pet’s bed in an easily accessible spot. Ensure it’s easy to climb onto, warm and comfortable
  • Give your senior pet a massage! Great relaxation therapy for your pet…and you!
  • Consider using holistic treatments to supplement your pet’s health such as acupuncture – a needling treatment method which uses your pet’s body’s own ability to heal itself.
  • Don’t forget to give your pet plenty of love and attention – the keys to a healthier and more fulfilling life for your best friend!

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Mastering the art of dog walks

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Mastering the art of dog walks

Optimize dog walks for you and your dog with these essential tips.

Walks are essential for the well-being of canine companions and when done correctly, with the right attitude, they can also be very beneficial for us. It is a commitment responsible pet parents make.

Walks are an opportunity for dogs to:

  1. Relieve themselves.
  2. Move their bodies and get exercise.
  3. Get fresh air.
  4. Help with weight control.
  5. Reduce anxiety, boredom, and depression.
  6. Interacting with their environment and “earthing”.
  7. Socialize with other humans and dogs.
  8. Strengthen their bond with you.

The truth is that most dogs don’t get nearly the amount of exercise they need, resulting in many canine companions becoming obese. Pet guardianship means committing to keep your pet healthy and moving, rain or shine (or snow).  Keep in mind, that for most dogs, a walk is great, however, they need at least three days of 20-minute plus heart-pumping exercise per week, which will likely be achieved more by fast activities or running, rather than walking. 

Set the stage for a lifetime of good walks for you and your canine companion!

  1. Get the right gear for your dog’s needs and get them used to it.
  2. Train your dog to follow loose lead and reduce your dog’s urge to pull.
  3. Explore the different types of walks and make it fun.
  4. Be mindful of the common mistakes we can make when going for walks.
  5. Take safety precautions.

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1. THE RIGHT GEAR

Investing in quality gear, not only enhances safety but also makes walks more enjoyable for both you and your furry companion. Start young/early and slowly. They should be accustomed to wearing the gear before you attempt to take them for walks.

HARNESS, COLLAR, AND LEAD

For your dog, a well-fitting harness or collar is crucial, as it provides comfort and control while minimizing the risk of injury. A sturdy leash, preferably one with a comfortable handle and appropriate length, allows you to maintain control and guide your dog effectively. Even if off-leash, always pack their harness and leash and include an ID tag.

Every dog should have their own secure-fitting flat collar (no choke or pinch collars, please) and an ID tag.

I always advocate for a Y-harness as collars may cause injury to the neck and soft tissue. However, a harness won’t work if your dog does not have loose lead walking skills or training. In a dog’s forward movement, a harness with a ribbon crossing their chest from side to side hinders them, in the same way humans would be bothered hiking with a rubber band holding their arms. Physiological movement of the front limb is inhibited.  Check out this video on the harness and read more on The Paw Company’s page, by searching harness.

I prefer a strong lead of about 1.5 m and advise against retractable leashes as they are more prone to create injury and be a safety hazard, they break, and you have less control.

Make sure your ID tags are legible and have updated contact numbers on.

Other gear may include:

  • Muzzles are not only for aggressive dogs as they can also be used for those dogs who like to eat anything on the road. Muzzle training is important for emergencies too.
  • Reflective gear for both of you if you walk during darker hours.
  • Wear comfortable, supportive shoes yourself and weather-appropriate clothing to stay dry and protected.
  • Consider carrying essentials such as water, waste bags, and a first-aid kit for unexpected situations.
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2. TRAINING TO WALK

Here are some walk-training tips from Dr. Karen Becker.

Training Your Dog to Follow on a Loose Lead

Initial walks should be short for most puppies — the main goal is to get your dog used to being attached to you by a lead. Find a safe environment and allow the puppy to drag the line behind him for a bit, then pick up the opposite end. Let him lead you around for a few seconds while you hold the line just off the ground. Slow down so he’s forced to slow down, ultimately to a stop. Take a short break for praise and a little playtime.

Next, let him trail the line again, but when you pick up your end this time, call him and stand still. If he pulls, hold your ground without pulling him in your direction. The goal is to teach him to put slack in the line himself by moving toward you. When he puts slack in the line, praise him and call him to you.

If he comes all the way to you, give him more praise and a training treat. If he stops on his way to you, tighten the line just enough to apply a tiny bit of pull to it. Immediately call him to come again. Give praise as he moves toward you and treats when he comes all the way back. Two or three repetitions is all many puppies need to understand lack of tension in the line is what earns praise and treats.

When your pup has learned to come towards you to relieve tension on the line, you can begin backing up as he comes toward you to keep him moving. Next, turn and walk forward so he’s following you. If he passes you, head in another direction so he’s again behind you.

The goal is to teach him to follow on a loose lead. Once you’ve accomplished the goal, you can continue to use the light line or replace it with a leash.

Depending on your pup’s temperament, 5 to 15-minute sessions are sufficient in the beginning. Practice controlling him on the lead for 30-second intervals during each session. Exercise patience and don’t engage in a battle of wills with your pup. Don’t snap, yank, or otherwise use the line for correction or punishment. Stop before either of you gets frustrated or tired.

After each short session on the lead, liberally praise your puppy and spend a few minutes playing fetch or some other game he loves. Remember: you’re building the foundation for an activity both you and he will enjoy and look forward to throughout his life.

Reducing Your Dog’s Urge to Pull

Dogs pull for various reasons including but not limited to:

  • It is unnatural to be attached to a leash. They are not meant to walk like robots next to us.
  • They move faster than us and by pulling their human moves forward.
  • Excitement.

It is unrealistic to expect them to never pull!

If your little guy or girl just doesn’t seem to be catching on to the loose lead thing, don’t despair. Some puppies and untrained adult dogs stubbornly fight the “pressure of the line” rather than create slack.

If your puppy freezes on a taut line or consistently pulls against it, it’s important to use a halter or harness rather than a collar attached to the lead, because she can create serious neck and cervical disk problems for herself by pulling against a collar/leash combination.

Next, make sure you’re not part of the problem. Our human instinct is to hold the leash taut, so you must also train yourself to move in ways that keep slack in the line. A dog’s natural response to a tight line is to pull against it. Once you’re sure you’re not contributing to your pup’s refusal to create slack in the lead or move toward you, do the following:

  • Maintain tension on the line and turn your back to her. Allow time for it to occur to her she can’t win by pulling against you.
  • Remain still with your back to her holding the tension in the line — don’t jerk it, don’t pull, or yank her toward you, and don’t put slack in the line yourself, as this will show her that the way to get slack is to pull at the line, which is exactly the opposite of what you’re trying to teach her.

The message you want to send to your pup is that pulling on the lead doesn’t accomplish a thing. It doesn’t change the scenery, it doesn’t get you moving in a direction she chooses, and it doesn’t earn praise or treats. Eventually, she’ll stop doing what doesn’t work, especially when she’s consistently rewarded for desirable behaviour.

From the very first moment you begin leash training, make sure your puppy accomplishes nothing by pulling on her line. It takes some dogs longer than others to learn to keep the leash loose, but with patience and persistence, any puppy can learn to follow a loose lead.

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DIFFERENT KINDS OF WALKS 

I have learned a lot about the different kinds of walks from Dr. Karen Becker. Here is what shes shares:

Once your furry companion has acquired good leash manners and both of you look forward to your walks each day, consider changing up the routine to keep things fresh and fun.

  1. Purposeful walks — These are typically short and have a specific goal, for example, walking your dog to her potty spot.
  2. Training walks — These walks can be about improving leash manners and learning basic or advanced obedience commands. Remember to take some healthy training treats.
  3. Mentally stimulating walks — Most leashed dogs don’t get to spend nearly as much time sniffing and investigating as they would like, so allowing your pet some time to explore is good mental stimulation for her.
  4. Sniffaris — During these mentally stimulating walks, your dog takes the lead, you follow, and he gets to sniff whatever he pleases.
  5. Power walks — Power walks keep your dog’s frame strong, and his weight in check, and help alleviate arthritis and other degenerative joint diseases. These walks can also be an essential method for ensuring your dog gets enough exercise. Your dog may be pumped up after such a walk, so prepping some post-walk-enrichment (like a food toy, licking, etc.) can help them wind down.
  6. Walks with friends — If your dog is comfortable around other dogs, consider meeting up with neighbours or friends with dogs for social group walks.
  7. Different dog-walker walks — Everyone walks a dog a little differently, so the more members of your household who walk your dog, the more variety she’ll enjoy.
  8. Change-of-scenery walks — Instead of heading outside in the same old direction, instead, buckle your dog in and drive a few blocks away or to a neighbourhood park or nearby hiking trail for your walk.
  9. Decompression walks – The idea is to reduce the dog’s stress and anxiety by providing a calm and controlled environment where they can use their natural behaviours. These walks often involve a slower pace and a focus on allowing the dog to make choices about where to go and what to explore, rather than following a strict route or pace.

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ALTERNATIVES FOR REACTIVE DOGS

When you do suburban walking, the other dogs barking, are not them “saying hello”, it is more like “death threats”. For reactive and anxious dogs this won’t be beneficial. For some guardians, walks then become stressful too. In such cases, it may do more harm than good, to commit to that walk.

Ways to improve the walk for a reactive dog (R+Dogs):

  • Avoid the triggers (still work on them later)
  • Let them sniff more
  • Build their confidence
  • Skip the walk
  • Get professional help

Here are some alternatives for physical and mental stimulation:

  • Active games
  • Dog puzzles and toys
  • Dog play dates
  • Online training (for you)
  • Scent work where you hide things for them to find in your home or yard
  • Obstacle course in your yard

AbsoluteDOGS has a game for everything!

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4. COMMON DOG WALKING MISTAKES

  • Ignoring your dog or multi-tasking — Unfortunately, there are pet parents who do everything but, pay attention to their dogs during walks. The activity becomes so routine that they do it without giving much thought to the furry fellow at the other end of the leash. This is a bad habit primarily because of the danger of what your dog can get up to if you are not looking.
  • Not allowing sniff time — Your dog’s most acute sense is their sense of smell. Remember that dogs perceive their world in a big way through scent. It is important to allow them to sniff during walks.
  • Choosing the wrong type of collar, harness, or leash — Many pet parents don’t realize the importance of choosing the right type for their dog.
  • Not taking advantage of the different types of walks, mentioned above, to keep things interesting for both of you.

5. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Here are some safety precautions to take:

  • Pack a mini first aid kit.
  • Take water for you and your canine companion.
  • Keep them hydrated and prevent them from drinking contaminated water.
  • Wear visible gear so the public can see you and reflective gear if you are walking during darker hours.
  • Watch out for dog snatchers who follow your walking routines as well as any other hazards.
  • Do not let young children or the elderly walk animals alone.
  • Go at their pace.
  • Protect their paws.
  • Puppy precautions.
  • Microchip and ID tags.

Let’s elaborate on a few:

Protect their paws – To protect your dog’s paws while walking, ensure you avoid hot pavement or rough terrain that can cause burns or abrasions. Before the walk, test the road/tar/ground temperature. If you can’t keep the back of your hand on the ground for 5 seconds then it is too hot for their paws!Opt for early morning or late evening walks when the ground is cooler, and consider using dog booties to shield their paws from very harsh surfaces if neccesary.

Regularly check their paws for signs of injury or irritation, and keep their nails trimmed to prevent discomfort. Additionally, applying a paw balm can help moisturize and protect their pads from drying out or cracking. I also do a paw-soak after walks with filter water and apple cider vinegar. Taking these precautions can keep your dog’s paws healthy and comfortable during walks.

Puppies – Discuss with your veterinarian when your puppy’s immune system is strong enough to go for walks. This is usually after they had all their initial vaccinations. Also, discuss with your vet when running and jumping will be appropriate for your puppy, when we look at bone growth.

Microchip and ID tags – Make sure your dog is microchipped and registered on multiple databases as well as wearing an ID tag.

KEEP IN MIND

  • If you are having trouble with the walk, get professional help. This could be a trainer if your pet just never learned to walk on a leash properly or a behaviourist if there are other underlying issues like anxiety or reactivity.
  • Leash manners are important, even with the right gear.
  • Sterilized dogs will likely be less distracted or distracting for other dogs.
  • Although walking is a great activity, some breeds might not be getting enough exercise for cardiovascular health through just a walk. For others, you might have to start slower for shorter distances. Remember to take precautions when running. Start slow, go at their pace, and be cautious with growing dogs, old dogs, and those from certain breeds or with certain conditions.
  • When going for hikes, make sure your pet is up for it, you have enough water, the trail is dog-friendly and never let your dog chase any wildlife.

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Yellow ribbon – Be mindful of fellow walkers. Never allow your dog to just approach another dog, even if they are friendly, and especially not when that dog is on a leash because they might be fearful, reactive, aggressive, in pain, not child-friendly, in training or recovering from an operation. The yellow ribbon on a dog’s collar or leash is a sign to other people, that the dog needs some space and that you need to proceed with caution. Never take away another dog or their owner’s choice to interact or not. Always ask permission from the owner and most importantly from the dog.  Help us spread the world on this!

The most important thing you can do to ensure a lifetime of enjoyable walks with your canine companion is to help them learn to be the perfect walking partner and be one too. As Dr. Karen Becker says: “One of the most important gifts you can give your dog whenever you interact with him, including on walks, is your undivided attention.”

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin – Animal 101

Summer Care for Horses

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Summer Care for Horses

As the summer heat sets in, it’s important to take extra care of our equine friends. Here are a few tips to help keep your horse healthy and happy during the summer months.

Flies
Flies will probably bother your horse the most during the summer months. Use Fly spray regularly, morning and evening to keep those pests at bay. Another way to combat the flies is a fly mask, making sure the fit is not too loose or too tight.

Skin Care
Use sunblock on white or pink areas of your horse. Applying sunblock once a day should be sufficient.

Remember to check that your sunscreen is safe for use on horses’ skin. Zinc-Oxide (used by lifeguards) is horse friendly and water-resistant.

Hydration
Make sure your horse stays hydrated and always has access to potable water. Also make sure water is placed in a shaded area.

Your horse may need extra salt intake and a good way is to provide it with a salt block, Himalayan Salt is also very good.

Keeping Horses Cool
Make sure your horse keeps cool and always has access to shelter even if it is in the form of a nice big tree when your horse is out pasturing.

Have good airflow if your horse is stabled, and place a fan inside the barn or stable if need be to increase airflow on those extra hot and stifling days.

A quick rinse after a hot ride will also cool your horse right down.

Healthy Horse
Be sure that your horse is in good health before heading out on a summer ride. Consider riding in the early morning or in the early evening when it is cooler.

Summer is a great time to spend more time with your horse. The weather is nicer, and you can take advantage of the longer days to ride more often. However, it’s important to remember that horses are susceptible to heatstroke and other health problems in the summer months. Use the tips above to ensure a happy summer for both horse and rider.

Source: Cape of Good Hope SPCA

Aspects to consider if you have an existing dog and are considering adoption

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Aspects to consider if you have an existing dog and are considering adoption

When you are adopting and have an existing dog, it really is helpful to ask yourself the questions below – this will give you a greater chance of a successful adoption. 

We need to bear in mind, that if the adoption does not work out, not only will you feel terrible about this, each and every time a dog is sent back to the shelter, there is more physiological damage and stress, and the chances of the dog being successful adopted in the future are reduced. 

Additionally, our responsibility is always to our existing dog, and he/she must be considered first and foremost. 

The following is not mentioning the costs and training involved, however, these are aspects you need to take into consideration as well. 

  • If your existing dog is NOT sociable with other dogs, then rather do not even attempt an adoption, especially if there is any aggression involved. You can always contact a qualified behaviourist to help your dog, however, a dog such as this can learn to cope with other dogs when out for walks, but the chances of it accepting another dog in the home are very low. 
  • Some dogs will be happy with other dogs when out for a walk, however will not accept another dog into their home – this is more relevant in some breeds rather than others.
  • If you have an existing dog which is of the fighting breeds, or a cross of same, these dogs do much better as only dogs – if you are not sure, then rather get the help of a qualified behaviourist to discuss the possible match. Here is a link to our Compatibility Chart which will give you more knowledge to make an educated decision.
  • If you are getting a dog because you feel your dog is lonely, do ensure that it is getting sufficient physical, mental and sociable stimulation first of all. If not, do not expect the dogs to entertain themselves – you could possible end up with ‘double trouble’.
  • If you are getting another dog due to one dog dying and the existing dog being lonely, rather work on helping it to cope and get over the grief, before considering another dog. Here is a link to an article to help a dog that is not coping after losing its friend.
  • If there are any behaviour problems occurring, even if not serious one’s, it is far better to resolve same before thinking about adopting, as dogs often mimic one another’s behaviour, and you could end up with two dogs exhibiting the unacceptable behaviour. A common problem that often occurs when a second dog is adopted is resource guarding – of food, toys and objects and food – contact a behaviourist to resolve first and foremost. This new knowledge will allow you to ensure that you can train the new dog to avoid problems where resource guarding is concerned as well.
  • Ensure that the dog to be adopted is both dog and people friendly to avoid problems.
  • Consider the sex of the dogs. Your ideal match is one female and one male. Two males can get on well together, however the breeds of each have to be taken into account. Your very worst match, and one to be avoided at all costs, is having 2 females. The chances of problems arising is very real, especially around the 8 – 24 month period.
  • Consider the exercise requirements of both dogs. You don’t want two high energy dogs together, neither do you want a couch potato and a very active dog. Consider also if you have both the time, and energy, to take 2 dogs for walks daily and also if you can control them.
  • Think about the grooming aspects – if you are already spending time grooming your existing dog often, then perhaps a breed that requires less daily brushing would be a better fit.
  • If the existing dog does have any behaviour concerns, even one as small as jumping up against people, you would have to do the work to change this behaviour. The majority of behaviour problems found in shelter dogs can be easily changed, however there is no magic wand to wave – you have to do the work involved, and there is always the possibility that your existing dog may mimic same.
  • Think also of the breed from a point of view of how easily they can be trained – some breed are much harder to train than other, and you need to make sure your dog skills are sufficient.
  • If you already have a young puppy, rather wait until it is about 6 to 7 months of age before bringing in another dog. This will allow you the time to really bond and train the behaviour you want – one dog is always easier to train than two at the same time. Additionally, if you do bring in another puppy close in age to your existing pup, they do tend to bond to one another more than to the owner. Additionally, one pup tends to become more confident and the other less so, and this can end up at extremes. 
    If your existing dog has any physical challenges, or is a Golden Oldie, do speak to your vet to get their opinion as to whether getting another dog is an option.

After you have chosen your new dog, do get your existing dog to meet same, and always on neutral territory – this reduces the possibility of any resource guarding in the home. In order to help you have a success when you do take the new dog home, here is a link to an article that gives you the step by step procedure to follow – Introducing and new dog to a resident dog

 

Caring for Birds in Summer: Tips for a Cool and Comfortable Avian Companion

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Caring for Birds in Summer: Tips for a Cool and Comfortable Avian Companion

As temperatures soar and days lengthen, it’s crucial to help our winged companions stay cool and comfortable. Here’s a guide to ensuring your bird’s well-being during hot summer months, emphasizing the importance of proper bathing, a key aspect of avian summer care.

Ensuring a Comfortable Environment

  • Shade and Air Circulation: Keep your bird’s cage in an area with good airflow, shielded from direct sunlight. Use curtains or blinds to block intense sun while still letting in light.
  • Hydration Stations: Always provide fresh, clean water for drinking. Place several water sources around to encourage drinking.
  • Chilled Snacks: Offer your bird cool (not frozen) fruits and vegetables, especially those high in water content like cucumbers and melons, for hydration and enjoyment.
  • Gentle Airflow: A fan can help circulate air around the cage, but avoid direct drafts that can stress birds.
  • Mist for Comfort: Gently misting your bird with water on hot days can provide relief and mimic their natural habitat. Ensure the mist is fine to avoid soaking the feathers.

Bathing: Key to Summer Care

  • Regular Baths: Increase bath frequency in summer, preferably in the mornings to allow feathers to dry before cooler evenings.
  • Bath Options: Provide a shallow dish with lukewarm water for self-bathing. Observe if your bird prefers this or bathing in their drinking water.
  • Spray Bottles: For birds that enjoy it, use a clean spray bottle with room-temperature water for a gentle shower effect.
  • Safety During Bathing: Always supervise bath time and ensure your bird is dry before nightfall.
  • Variety in Bathing: Offer different bathing methods and observe your bird’s preference.
  • Safe Water: Use clean, dechlorinated water for baths to protect their skin and feathers.

Enhancing Bath Time with Nature’s Nest Feather Sprays

Our range of feather sprays – Aloe Vera, Lavender, Spearmint, and Eucalyptus – are designed to enrich your bird’s summer bathing experience while nurturing their plumage and skin.

  • Aloe Vera Spray: Ideal for dry skin, this hydrating spray promotes a healthy feather sheen.
  • Lavender Spray: Offers calming effects, perfect for relaxation after a busy day or before sleep.
  • Spearmint Spray: Refreshes and energizes, providing a cooling sensation during bath time.
  • Eucalyptus Spray: Supports respiratory health and offers protection against summer pests.

Using Nature’s Nest Feather Sprays:

  • Optimal Timing: Apply during your bird’s usual bath time, preferably in the morning.
  • Application Technique: Spray from about 30 centimeters away for a light and even mist.
  • Watch for Reactions: Observe how your bird responds to each scent and adjust accordingly.
  • Freshness is Key: Shake the bottle before use to blend the natural ingredients.
  • Moderation: Use the sprays sparingly to avoid overwhelming your bird.
  • Please note our sprays are not to be used as a medical treatment, if your bird plucks its feathers the underlying factors like an unbalanced diet, etc should be considered. 

In conclusion, summer care for birds involves creating a cool environment, offering frequent baths, and being vigilant for signs of heat stress. Nature’s Nest Feather Sprays add a touch of luxury to this care routine, each with unique benefits: Aloe Vera for moisturizing, Lavender for calming, Spearmint for revitalization, and Eucalyptus for respiratory health and pest prevention. Integrating these sprays into your bird’s summer care ensures a harmonious blend of enjoyment and health, allowing them to thrive in the warm season.

Source: Nature’s Nest