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Fun Games to Play With Your Dog

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Image: Pixabay

 Use a Flirt Pole

A flirt pole (also called a flirt stick) is a long pole with a rope attached to the end. On the end of that rope is a lure that’s used to entice your dog to chase. Flirt poles provide great exercise, and they’re mentally stimulating. They’re a way to let let your dog use their natural prey drive in a non-destructive way. And they’re a great for practicing some basic impulse control such as letting go on command.

When playing remember to let your dog ‘win’ or catch the lure on occasion as a reward. By letting them win you’re making the game more engaging and fun, and that will encourage them to keep playing. If they don’t get that chance to win they can become discouraged and uninterested in the game. You can make your own flirt pole with some pvc pipe, some bungee cord and a dog toy.

Health Concerns: This is a very high impact exercise that can be rough on your dog’s joints. If your dog isn’t very active to begin with start with short sessions and work your way up. If your dog has any joint or mobility issues don’t use a flirt pole. They can can cause further joint damage, so opt to some of these lower impact exercises instead.

Play Tug of War With Your Dog

Tug is by far my dog’s favorite game. It’s fun, it’s engaging, it’s great physical exercise and it’s a good way for dogs to practice good manners. And if you spent a lot of time training with your dog I’ve found it to be one of most motivating rewards around.

When playing tug just remember to follow this basic rule – the game stops if your dog’s teeth touch your skin. Some dogs may struggle with this more than others since tug gets some dogs (puppies) pretty riled up. If you stop when their mouth touches your hand they’ll catch on that ‘the fun game stops when I mouth my person.’

And contrary to popular belief playing tug with your dog will not make him aggressive, nor will letting him win make him dominant. Letting your dog win makes the game more engaging, and it shows your dog that you’re a lot of fun to be around.

Play Frisbee With Your Dog

 A game of frisbee is great exercise, and it’s a lot of fun for dogs that have a natural drive to chase.

If your dog doesn’t know how to catch a frisbee I’d start out by using a soft disc. Traditional plastic frisbees are pretty hard, so if they hit your dog in the face they can discourage them from trying to catch it. Practice by getting your dog excited about the frisbee by tossing it short distances or rolling it on the ground. Encourage them when they start to follow it around and chase. Once your dog is excited to chase it you can increase the distance and start tossing it.

Create Your Own Agility Course

Another fun game for dogs is creating your own agility course. It’s a fun way to teach your dog some new tricks, and it’s a great source of mental stimulation for dogs.

Using an agility course for your dog is a fun way to give them some mental & physical exercise. It’s that added focus of having to perform one thing after the other that’s really exhausting.

And while you can go out and buy plenty of obstacle course items at pet supply stores I prefer making my own. You can use a hula hoop to jump through, some blankets to jump over and some little mini cones to weave through. If you want to step it up a notch you can can make some agility equipment of your own.

Use Kong Stuffing & Food Dispensing Toys

Using a stuffed Kong or some food dispensing toys is one of the easiest games to play with your dog. It’s fun, it encourages them to use some of their natural scavenging ability, and it’s mentally stimulating.

Food dispensing toys are great for giving your dog some more mental stimulation at meal time. You fill it up and they have to knock it around to get the food out. If your dog has never used a food dispensing toy you may have to practice a bit before they get the hang of it. After filling it up encourage them to play with it so they can see that ‘oh look food comes out when I move it around.

Teach Your Dog to Chase Bubbles

One of the easiest games to play with your dog is to teach them to chase bubbles.

If your dog doesn’t know how to chase bubbles start by blowing a couple at a time. Point them out to them and encourage them to chase. Catch some yourself to show you dog that there’s nothing to worry about, and that the whole point of the game is to get them before they touch the ground.

We use bubbles made for kids (they also make flavored bubbles specifically for dogs). They’re non toxic, but can upset their stomach if they ingest too much. And be sure to wipe off your dog’s face afterwards because they can irritate your dog’s eyes.

Play Some Water Games With Your Dog

Going to the local beach can be a lot of fun for dogs, especially those that already love swimming. (don’t forget a doggie life jacket for safety) You can bring along some dog toys and play a game of fetch in the water.

If your dog isn’t a great swimmer, or if you don’t have any beaches nearby you can play some water games in your own backyard. Get a plastic kiddie pool and fill it with water. Many dogs love splashing around and having a nice little pool of their own to keep cool in. Toss in some toys and turn it into a ‘bobbing for apples‘ game.

Some dogs go crazy for the hose. The hose may be intimidating for some dogs. If your dog isn’t into the hose they might prefer playing in a sprinkler that doesn’t let off such a strong stream of water.

Play Find the Treats With Your Dog

Find the treats, like all nose work games, are mentally stimulating and a fun way to let our dogs hone in on their natural sniffing abilities.

To play find the treats you’ll want to start by putting some treats on the ground while your dog is in the stay position. Give your dog their release command and encourage them to ‘find the treats.’ Point to them and help them along if they’re struggling. Encourage them along the way by praising them each time they find one.

Once your dog understands what ‘find the treats’ means you can slowly start to increase the difficulty of where you’re hiding them. And once you’ve practiced enough in one room you can move onto hiding treats throughout the house.

Use a Digging Box

Some dogs love digging, and having a dedicated digging box for them is a way to encourage them to dig in one approved area – one that doesn’t include your landscaped garden. You can make your own digging box with some wood and sand from your local hardware store. If you have a lot of cats in the neighborhood you might want to build a top to keep it from becoming a litter box.

Some dogs will be thrilled to have a place to dig to their heart’s content. If your dog doesn’t dig right away you can make it game by burying some of your dogs favorite toys in the box to encouraging your dog to dig them out.

Play a Game of Hide & Seek

Hide and seek lets your dog use some of their natural scent tracking abilities in a fun and stimulating way.

To play hide and seek have you dog stay while you go find a hiding spot. Once situated call your dog and praise them when they find you. If your dog doesn’t have a good ‘stay’ you can enlist the help of someone else to distract your dog as you hide.


Source: puppyleaks.com

Choosing Toys for your Pets

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toys

Choosing Toys for your Pets

Most pets love to play, but are your toy choices safe?

Most healthy dogs and other pets retain their love to play throughout their lives, but some don’t and that is fine. Nando Brown calls them disco dogs vs. library dogs. “You don’t take your library dog to the disco; they’re not gonna like it.” There are two types of play pets engage in, namely social and solitary. Social play involves a playmate, either a dog a human or another species of animal. As the name implies, solitary play involves the pet and an object. Hopefully, it is an appropriate toy and not your favourite pair of shoes!

As with humans, we might have similar interests to another person or a sibling, but we are not carbon copies and this goes for pets too. There are some basic requirements for your pets, but to really fulfil your pets’ individual needs, even within the same breed, you have to find out what they really love. One dog loves a ball, another loves an empty Coke bottle or a soft toy. Our one dog rarely touched a ball and he was a solitary player. Keep this in mind when you play with them!

Your pet’s temperament, size and age all play a role in determining which toys are safe, and there are considerations, too, based on the toy itself (materials used, size, shape, and more). Here are some guidelines below, compiled by VetStreet, to ensure the toys you choose for your pets keep them enjoying play, but also keep them safe.

TIPS FOR SELECTING SAFE PET TOYS

  • Choose toys that are the right size for your dog. Giving a small toy to a large dog poses a risk of inhalation and choking. Generally speaking, you should choose large toys for large dogs and smaller toys only for smaller dogs.
  • Avoid toys that have small parts that can be chewed or pulled off.
  • Avoid toys with sharp edges or that can be chewed into sharp points.
  • When playing fetch, avoid toys that are heavy or hard enough to damage your dog’s teeth or injure him.
  • If your dog likes to de-stuff toys, be sure he’s not eating the stuffing. Some dogs really enjoy stuffing-free toys.

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SOME TOYS REQUIRE CLOSE SUPERVISION

  • Long rope-like or tug toys, since they can become wrapped around your dog’s neck.
  • Squeaky toys if your dog likes to play “rip out the squeaker”.
  • Battery-operated toys, because if your dog manages to get the batteries out and swallows them, it can result in battery toxicosis.
  • Tennis balls can be a choking hazard for large dogs, and the abrasive fuzz may wear down the teeth of an aggressive or persistent chewer.
  • Frisbees and similar flying disks that may cause your dog to jump up and twist simultaneously, which can lead to leg and back injuries.

‘TOYS’ TO AVOID

  • Pet toys are not regulated, so they can be made with virtually any material.
  • String, ribbon, pantyhose, socks, and rubber bands, all of which can be swallowed and cause life-threatening complications in the digestive tract.
  • Children’s toys (such as stuffed animals); they’re not designed to withstand the type of play dogs engage in.
  • Toys stuffed with beads or beans.
  • Rocks & Sticks.
  • Containers (including bags) large enough for your dog to put his head in; if it becomes stuck, he can suffocate.
  • Tug toys for dogs with neck or back problems, such as herniated disks.
  • Rubber toys with a hole in only one end, as they can form a vacuum that catches your dog’s tongue.
  • Rawhide chews aren’t recommended for several reasons, one of which is that they pose a high risk of choking and intestinal obstruction.
  • Potentially toxic toys – Plastic toys, in particular, can be dangerous, as many contain endocrine-disrupting chemicals such as phthalates and bisphenol-A (BPA).
  • Old or weathered toys (such as those left outside) leach higher concentrations of harmful chemicals.

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OTHER IMPORTANT CONSIDERATIONS

PLAYING FETCH – Although fetch can be a great way to get rid of some energy, it also has a dark side you should be aware of. This article explains it well. There is healthy fetch and then there is “fetch-fall-out”. It is a great enrichment activity, but should never be the only one. There are many other enrichment games available. There is nothing wrong with changing up your routine to cut the problem out of the picture and doing this can often lead to big improvements in health and behaviour outcomes for both dog and human.

Mind and Manners suggest playing fetch 1-5 times per week for 10 minutes at a time, but again it might depend on your dog. Playing such a high-intensity game for too long can put them at risk for certain injuries.

LASER PLAY – Dr Karen Becker says: “While your cat may be driven to pursue the laser light, even if they are successful, there is no tangible reward for the effort they put in. This type of pointless play can lead to behaviour problems such as developing a tendency to compulsively chase shadows or reflections.” This goes for all animals with all games. You need to give them some wins!

RESOURCE GUARDING WITH TOYS – Mind and Manners explains resource guarding as a serious behavioural issue where the guarding dog acts aggressively towards dogs and or humans who approach them when they have a ball or other toy. They do this because they (often correctly) assume that the oncoming dog or person will take their toy away and they really want to keep it! Dogs who mildly resource guard balls may retreat or play “keep away” when approached, or may growl when asked to relinquish the ball.

In moderate cases, the resource guarder may growl or snap and if left untreated resource guarding may become severe enough that the guarder bites the approaching dog or person, or even swallows the ball to prevent it from being taken. If your animal presents with this behaviour, do some more reading on the topic or contact a behaviourist to assist you.

Finally, don’t underestimate your ability to stimulate your dog’s interests. A session of playtime with you, whether playing fetch, tug-of-war, or hide-and-seek, will be far more stimulating to your pet than any toy could be.

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin

How to stop dogs from jumping up?

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dog

How to stop dogs from jumping up?

Jumping up enthusiastically is part of normal canine behaviour. It has its roots in puppy greeting behaviour which involves licking the muzzle of returning adults. For a weaned wolf puppy it is essential and normal to beg for food by jumping up and licking the adult’s mouth to stimulate it to regurgitate food. In adulthood and domestic dogs jumping up becomes a normal greeting and appeasement ritual. Dogs consider it a compliment – we consider it a nuisance, especially in adult dogs.

In all likelihood it is also a behaviour you have reinforced (rewarded) when your dog was still a puppy. Tail wagging, jumping puppies are just irresistible. How great must your dog’s confusion be when he grows up and suddenly you punish him for something that comes naturally to him and he was praised and cuddled for all along. He was never really taught not to jump on you, was he??

So, let’s teach Fluffy to stop jumping.

In a nutshell you have to make jumping up unrewarding and teach him an alternative way to greet you, which is rewarded.

While retraining your dog try to avoid the situations in which he normally jumps up. Use a leash or his collar to stop him from jumping on visitors and yourself. Alternatively ignore the jumping up and turn your back, don’t speak to him (no, not even to shout at him!!), don’t touch him. It is important that all family members stop to acknowledge the dog if he jumps.

Cool your greeting ritual. On returning home, walk past your dog, ignore him for a little while and then call him to greet him calmly. If he is not too hyper kneel down so he does not need to jump up.

Praise and greet only while all four paws are on the ground.

  • Teach an acceptable behaviour that is incompatible with jumping up like a sit or down stay (your choice).Get a nice treat, hold it in your hand but don’t give it to your dog. Don’t give any command; just patiently wait until your dog shows the behaviour you want. Praise and treat immediately.
  • Take a step away from your dog and repeat the process until Fluffy sits / downs reliably and immediately after each step you take. Don’t make your training sessions too long (5-10 min), rather practice a few times a day, as you can. Always stop on a high note and while your dog is still eager to work. Steadily increase the length of the sit before you give the treat.
  • Practice in different locations, especially close to the gate / doorways where your dog normally gets to greet you and your visitors. Slowly raise the stakes but only increase one criteria in each training session. So, if you decide to increase the time Fluffy needs to sit before he gets rewarded, do not change the location where you practice as well.Once your dog reliably sits or downs you can introduce a verbal cue or command.
  • When Fluffy’s sit stay has become fairly reliable it is time to practice with willing friends. Armed with treats ask them to ring the bell or come to the gate and only greet and reward Fluffy if all his paws are on the floor.
  • Teach your dog a “too bad” – a signal that informs him that he just lost a treat / his reward.  Once your dog understands this signal it can help you a lot to stop unwanted behaviours, as dogs learn quickly to abandon behaviour that does not pay.
  • Get your dog to sit. Hold a very tasty treat about 30 cm away from him on nose level. (His nose – not yours.) As soon as he moves towards the treat (and he will) simply say “Too bad!!” (or “No” or “AAH AAH” – or whatever word you want to use as your no reward signal) and snatch the treat away. Get him back into a sit and repeat. If your timing is good Fluffy will soon decide to change his strategy and offer another behaviour. If he stays and simply stares at the treat reward/ reinforce immediately.
  • Repeat the whole process several times to establish your “too bad” signal or practice sit-stays. To raise the stakes change your position, change the type of treat, put the treat on the floor (but make sure you can get to it first in case your dog makes a mistake) etc… Again, don’t make a training session too long and stop while Fluffy is still keen to go on.  Use these two steps consistently.  Praise and reward acceptable behaviour every time and inform your dog about his mistakes with your no reward signal as soon as he jumps up on you. In that case turn away and walk away and leave him for a minute or two.
  • Give your dog an appropriate outlet for all his energy.  Daily walks – off-leash if possible Play sessions with other friendly dogs.  Retrieve games.  Hide and seek.  Recall practice with 2-5 people.
  • Stand opposite each other or in a circle and take turns calling the dog. Reward enthusiastically when he comes to the right person.
    • Chase – Teach your dog that a certain cue e.g. “I am gonna catch you” will start the game of you chasing after him.
    • Tug-of-war – Played with rules tug-of-war is a great energy burner and good exercise for yourself and your dog. Please teach your dog the rules and stick to them.  The dog lets go of the tugging toy or rope immediately when told to.

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  • Give your command to let go and swop the toy with a nice treat.
  • Give your cue to retake the rope and start tugging again.
  • Practice these exchanges before your dog gets really excited with some slow-motion,calm tugging.
  • Once the dog releases the toy on command put the treats out of sight.
  • He only retakes the rope when invited to do so.
  • Get one specific toy for your tug-of-war and stick to that toy.
  • The game starts only with that toy and on your cue e.g. “Take the rope”.
  • Should Fluffy grab the toy uninvited, tell him “too bad” and interrupt the game for a short while before you start again.
  • Do not tolerate accidents
  • During the heat of the game dogs will sometimes make contact with your hand by mistake. Screech “OUCH!!!” and immediately stop the game. Fluffy is very capable of controlling his teeth and you can use this as a reminder to keep them off people at all times.
  • Other than that let Fluffy be as excited as he wants to. Let him tug, shake and growl to his heart’s content.
  • Tug-of-war makes a great reward during obedience exercises as well.

Should you encounter any problems or have any questions please contact:

  • Hermanus Animal Welfare Society : 028 312 1281
  • Janine (Trainer-Touch therapist-Puppy classes) – 082 490 1650
  • Naomi (animal communicator) – 083 226 3526

Source: Hermanus Animal Welfare