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Dogs Chasing Cars

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Dogs Chasing Cars

Many dogs, especially those of the herding breed love to give chase to fast moving objects, unfortunately this sometimes includes cars! I have seen dogs that appear to be lying in wait just waiting for a car to appear so that it can give chase. One would wonder what the dog would do if it caught the car? I once worked with a Bullie that used to chase cars around the owners yard and when the car slowed, the Bullie would actually attack the tyres. In fact, it had started trying to bite the tyres while the car was moving!

I would imagine that from a dog’s point of view, not only is the chase good fun, they also ‘win’ – after all the car leaves when it is chased!  This would make the behaviour even more rewarding for the dog. If we add an owner that is screaming and shouting at the dog to stop the behaviour to the mix, then the additional attention received (to a dog attention is attention whether negative or positive), will further reinforce the chasing behaviour. And so a vicious circle begins!

If your dog is already engaging in this behaviour, don’t fool yourself, not only does the dog stand a chance of being seriously injured,  road users who may suddenly swerve to avoid the dog as well as innocent bystanders are being put at risk. This can be a serious situation and it would be advisable to call in a professional to assist you. You can find a behaviourist in your area by visiting www.animal-behaviour.org.za. If you are unable to find anybody here, then please just contact us via the site and we will do our utmost to put you in touch with somebody to assist you.

 Once the dog is chasing, it is a behaviour that is very difficult to change as it is so self rewarding and unless worked on constantly, this is a behaviour that dogs tend to revert back to, especially if they are stressed, bored or frustrated.

Reasons why this behaviour may develop

  • Chasing involves a dog’s natural prey drive, this is not only a game, and they are actually hunting.
  • Genetic -Some breeds, such as herding, sporting, terriers and hounds, have a higher prey drive and are more likely to engage in this   behaviour than other breeds. 
  • I have found that the majority of dogs that do exhibit this behaviour share the following traits – they ignore the owner and are seldom walked, there is a lack of stimulation and/or human companionship, they are bored, or frustrated. 

Prevention

  • Both you and your dog would be much better served by avoiding this bad habit in the first place by not giving chase to your dog if it steals something – rather call him back and reward him for coming.
  • Put in place an excellent recall. My favourite is the Real Reliable Recall, which, if the directions are adhered too and practised often, makes an excellent recall. 
  • I find that basic training, such as House rules help to prevent this problem from arising as the dog is more likely to listen to the owner. 
  • Make sure that the dog has regular outside exercise and supply plentiful chew toys etc, to keep the dog occupied in the yard.
  • Many breeds are bred to retrieve and actually need an outlet to perform same. If your dog is of this type of breed, then engage in a lot of object throwing which satisfies the dog’s natural instinct to retrieve, but also make sure that the dog brings the object back to you.

If you are out with your dog and it shows interest in a car for the first time – get in there quickly. Call your dog in a happy tone of voice, and as it turns to look at you, reward with both verbal praise and a treat. You will have to practise this often and get the dog to associate moving traffic with something good coming from you, so carry a supply of high value extra special treats on your walks.  You will find, if done often enough, that the dog will start to turn towards you in anticipation of a treat when a car is nearby.  If the dog does not turn towards you, wiggle the treat in front of his nose until he does, and then reward immediatly. A lovely tool to use here is the Watch exercise and you can link to the article to see how this is achieved. Basically whenever you say ‘watch’ the dog looks at you, thereby serving as a distraction and an excellent training aid.

If your dog already chases cars

As mentioned above, the modifications to change this behaviour need to be adhered to constantly and it would be advisable to call in a professional for assistance.  Many behaviourists prefer the ‘startle’ method of stopping this behaviour by way of filling a balloon with water and throwing at the dog as it gives chase, or banging something loudly, turning the hose pipe on it etc. Some people even advocate the use of either electric shock collars or an electric wire placed at the gate. Personally, I will only use a method such as above as a very last resort and if all else fails; I would rather train the dog not to chase. If you and the dog are Clicker savvy I would suggest using a Clicker where necessary.

These are the basic exercises I would bring in before starting on the modifications to teach your dog another way of acting around cars.

Management – if your dog is running out of your gate to chase cars, either close the gate or fence off an area that will stop the dog gaining access to this area.

Stimulation – Supply the dog with a variety of chew toys, changing daily, to provide entertainment and diversion while out in yard.

Human Companionship – make sure your dog is not left in the garden all day by himself. Dogs are social animals and need the human connection.

Exercise –Walk your dog daily. When out for a walk, do not let you dog off lead until the chasing behaviour has been dealt with. If the dog is trying to chase while on lead, rather drive to a park and walk your dog there until you have completed the modifications to change behaviour.

Training – if your dog is not listening to you now when you call him, your chances of getting him back when chasing a car are nil. It is imperative with behaviour such as chasing that the dog views the owner/s as pack leaders and will listen to them. Here are some of the modifications that I recommend:-

  • House rules. Bring in the basic House Rules as in the article, doing a lot of the ‘work to earn’ exercise utilizing the recall in this regard. Feed all your dog’s daily requirements by hand, getting him to come to you for every single morsel of food, when you are not at work. Included in these is the NRM (non reward marker), which is good to bring in as you will be able to give your dog feedback as to what behaviour you like, and that which you don’t, in an everyday interaction. Once your dog understands this new cue and is proficient in it, you will be able to use it when you start the serious training to stop the behaviour.
  • Watch/Watch me. Being able to get your dogs attention on you at all times, will give you a huge advantage in getting his attention when a car is in the vicinity. With this exercise, start in the home (even using some of the ‘work to earn’ exercises to practice the Watch exercise). Don’t expect your dog to watch you in the street initially – practice in the home, in the garden, in an area without cars etc. This will help you to be successful when a car is in the vicinity.
  • Real Reliable Recall. This is an exercise that results in a dog having an excellent recall if the modifications are adhered too – a must with a dog that is a chaser. As in the point above, this is practised and perfected in the home and garden and places where it will be easy for the dog initially. When outside, I would suggest that you keep the dog on a long-line to really become proficient in this skill before attempting it without a long line or lead. There is an excellent article called Recall using the long line on the site which will help you to achieve this.
  • With a dog that was previously a chaser, it is vitally important that the dogs natural chase instinct is met with plenty of objects being thrown and brought back to you. I would suggest keeping the dog on a long line until your dog is proficient in this exercise to stop the dog running off with the item. This will also raise you in the human/canine hierarchy. There is an article on the site called Fetch – Teaching your dog to fetch, to help you with this.

Behaviour Modification for dogs chasing cars.

By now you will have brought in the changes and exercises above and it is time to start with an actual car. It is much easier to have a friend with a car help you with this exercise as you can then control the speed; how many times the car drives past and make sure you do not do more than your dog can cope with. This needs to be practised over and over again – doing only 5 times in one day is just not enough.

Start this exercise in your own driveway entrance as it will be much easier for the dog, and that is what we are aiming for – success. Starting this while out for a walk will offer far too many distraction initially.

  • Have the dog on lead near your open gate with a plentiful supply of nice smelly treats situated about your person, and a couple in your hand for easy access.

  • Ask your friend to drive very slowly past the entrance of the gate and as your dog turns its head to look at the car, use your Watch cue in a happy voice. As the dog looks at you, reward immediately with several treats and verbal praise. The reason for several treats (jackpot) is to really get the dogs attention and let it realize that looking at you is more rewarding than looking at the car. Repeat this exercise several times.

  • If this is too hard and you cannot get the dog’s attention, then go back a step and ask your friend to park the car in the road at the bottom of the driveway instead and practise as above.

  • If at any time your dog ignores you and tries to pull away towards the moving car, shout your NRM of ‘uhuh’ at the top of your voice, even giving a quick jerk on the lead. The second the dog stops trying to get to the car, offer treats and praise lavishly. By this time your dog should be totally familiar with the NRM as it will have been used by you daily.

  • When your dog is watching you each and every time your friend drives slowly past, ask her to go a bit faster and repeat the exercise over and over.

  • Your next step is to take a few steps outside the gate, closer to the road. When we change the location, we always go back to the beginning, so this time you will repeat as (b) above, asking your friend to drive past very slowly. Once your dog is proficient at this, request your friend to drive past faster, repeating as above.

  • Next step is to start walking your dog along the pavement and again you go back to the beginning of your friend driving past slowly and gradually increasing as the dog becomes more and more proficient at this exercise.

  • When you have mastered the above, choose another location to practise in, again starting from the beginning.

  • The key to success is as Gary Player, the golfer once said ‘the more I practice the luckier I get’.

  • When your dog is ignoring the car in the above situation, then it is time for real life. Choose a street that does not have cars whizzing past, rather find a quieter street that has speed bumps to force drivers to slow down. If your dog finds it too hard to walk in this situation without trying to chase a car, then go back a few steps, and ask the dog to Watch you from a standing, or sitting position, gradually building it up as you did above. 

Always use your judgement and if you feel the situation seems too tempting, too distracting or too stressful, don’t ask your dog to perform miracles. Practice with him daily and with every opportunity that arises. All dogs learn at different speeds and in the case of a dog that has been chasing cars, it will depend on how ingrained the behaviour is.

When your dog is ignoring cars while out for a walk and you want to take the training of this further and allow your dog once again off lead, then I would suggest you use a combination of the Recall using the Long Line together with the The Real Reliable Recall, starting off with a very short distance and gradually allowing the dog to get further and further away from you.

When you eventually let the dog off the lead completely, start at the beginning again, and don’t allow the dog to get further than a few steps away from you before calling back. Again you will build up the distance accordingly. When starting this exercise, I always advise owners to first walk the dog to tire it out a bit – nothing wrong with prevention!

Personally, I never allow my dogs off lead in any area that could pose a problem where traffic is concerned; rather look for parks that are fenced, on a beach, soccer field etc. With a dog such as this, where you know there could be possible problems with chasing, keep your eyes peeled for possible cars that could trigger the impulse to chase and call the dog back before it starts chasing. Don’t forget to do plenty of fetch exercising in your own garden. 

By Scotty Valadao : Accredited Animal Behaviourist (Cn) (ABC of SA™): TTouch Practitioner

Source: Friends of the Dog

The proper Lifting and Lowering of a Rabbit

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The proper Lifting and Lowering of a Rabbit

What a you should know about caring of a rabbit

Every now and then it is necessary to pick up a rabbit. If it is to take then to another enclosure, put them in a transport basket, lift them to examine them more closely or for whatever reason. Depending on the nature of the animal (anxious, shy, aggressive), preparations may be necessary (creating a basis of trust). If the ‘chemistry’ between rabbit and human is right, it is possible to lift the rabbit without harming it. The following steps will shortly explain how to pick a rabbit up safely and set it down again:

As a prey creature, the rabbit is a flight-animal by nature, among its natural main-enemies are gripping-birds. If a human wants to access the rabbit from above, it will defend itself against being picked up with the danger of breaking its backbone by kicking its hind legs. Against this background one must

  • establish a basis of trust
  • carefully accustom the animal to the lift
  • first familiarise the rabbit with the touch of your hand

A rabbit must never be pulled up by the ears, legs, neck or tail. The risk of injuries of the soft tissues, dislocation of the joints, bone fractures, spinal fracture is too high. In order to be able to receive the animal properly and safely one must

  • place one hand under the chest of the rabbit, fixate the rabbit’s front legs with your thumb
  • put your other hand under the rabbit’s buttocks, and fixate the hind legs with your fingers

To carefully get used to lifting, one should

  • lift the front legs slightly
  • resettle on the ground
  • reward the rabbit
  • repeat the exercise
  • later lift the hind legs just as easily

Now the rabbit can be lifted carefully. So that it cannot flee, one must grasp it well.

In order to put the rabbit down again without danger, you must

  • continue to hold it well
  • squat or kneel down
  • lead it carefully to the ground
  • let it go carefully

Source: Four Paws

Why Teaching Your Dog The Emergency Stop Is So Important

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Why Teaching Your Dog The Emergency Stop Is So Important

An emergency stop is an important command for your dog to learn as it can be used in urgent situations that need immediate intervention.  

For example, this could be used to stop your dog from running up to a potentially reactive dog, running across the road, or if your dog has become overstimulated How to calm down an overstimulated dog. The command helps to get their focus back to you and can stop a situation from escalating.

To teach the emergency stop, we will be using food as a reward. It’s helpful to find what motivates your dog, such as a high value treat like chicken or cheese.  ​

Step 1
Start with your dog a small distance away from you. Using a treat or verbal cue, encourage your dog to come towards you. As they do, raise a treat up high above your head.  
Before they reach you, throw the treat behind your dog so that they stop, turn back and fetch the treat. Continue practicing this until your dog starts to slow down or stop when you raise your hand, anticipating the treat.

Step 2
You can now introduce a verbal cue. Repeat step one, but this time say ‘stop’ as you throw the treat. You should see that your dog will expect the treat to be thrown and will prepare to stop and turn to get the reward.  

Keep practicing this until your dog stops immediately when you hold your hand up and say ‘stop’.

Step 3
Continue practicing, but now when your dog stops, walk over to give them the treat. This will encourage your dog to hold their stop position, rather than relying on you to throw the treat behind them.  

Remember, the aim is for your dog to stop in their tracks and stay where they are.

Step 4
Now you can start to increase the distance between you and your dog. With your dog at a distance from you, call them over and raise your hand and say ‘stop’. When your dog follows your instruction, walk up to them and reward them with a treat.
​
Step 5
Finally, you’ll need to practice the behaviour in different environments and with added distractions, to ensure that your dog will reliably stop when asked, no matter what the circumstances.  
For example, if you have a friend to help you, get them to walk past your dog. Using your verbal cue and hand signal, encourage your dog to stop. If they end up following the friend, your dog may need some more practice.  
Once you’re more confident, you can also try practicing in various locations. If you’re worried about practicing an emergency stop in a new environment, you could use a long line lead.

courtesy – www.battersea.org.uk
Battersea is one of the best known shelters in the UK. All shelters and rescue organizations really need our help. Please do all you can to support your favourite shelter – financial may not be an option, however, there are so many other ways to help – donating to their charity shop, baking or donating books or similar to help them raise much needed funds. Just take a little time and go any give a dog or cat some love – take a dog for a walk – ask them what you can do for them – they do soooo much for all the animals in their care!

Source: Friends of the Dog

How to Introduce a Rescue to Your Family

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How to Introduce a Rescue to Your Family

We all know how exciting it is to welcome a new family member into your home. But we also know how easily things can go wrong when introductions are rushed. Too often, rescue animals are brought back simply because they weren’t given enough time to settle in or to get to know their new fur siblings properly. It breaks our hearts at TEARS Animal Rescue — and it’s why we’re so passionate about helping adopters get this step right.

Bringing a rescue animal home is pure magic. You’ve found your fur-ever friend and they’ve found their forever home. Your heart is full, they’re over the moon, and you just know they’ll fit right in. But here’s the catch: while you’re picturing happy cuddle piles and instant besties, your pets are thinking, “Who’s this stranger in my space?”

The thing is, introductions don’t happen in a day. Most rescues come from challenging backgrounds that make it hard for them to just relax and become one of the gang. Plus, even the most chilled resident pets need time to adjust. It can take weeks and even months before everyone feels safe, settled, and ready to share the couch. Think of it as a slow dance, rather than a speed dating session (because we all know how those end up).

Here’s how to make those first steps smooth and stress-free:

  1. Do Your Homework
    Before you commit to adopting an animal, quiz the team at the shelter about your potential rescue’s history and personality. Have they lived with other pets? How do they behave around cats, dogs or children? Are they easily frightened by loud noises, like thunder or shouting? This information will help you make an informed decision about whether or not they’ll be a good match for your particular environment. It also means you’re able to set realistic expectations at home.
  1. Safe Spaces = Happy Faces
    Once home, your new arrival needs a space to call their own — a spare room, special bed, or a comfy nook. They need to know that this is theirs alone. Likewise, your current pets should also have their own spots to retreat to when they need some quiet time. This way, nobody feels crowded and everyone can get on with life. It will take some gentle guidance in the beginning, but with a little patience they’ll soon learn the ropes.
  1. Meet on Neutral Turf
    Dogs are usually more relaxed when meeting on a walk, where there’s less “this is my space” tension. With cats, try using a cracked door or small barrier (like a baby gate), so they can check each other out from a safe distance. Once both seem calm, move the meet-up into a neutral spot indoors. Keep some tasty treats nearby to make the experience positive and watch their body language closely so you can step in before things get heated.
  1. Keep It Short and Sweet
    Those early get-togethers should be calm, brief, and always supervised. Leashes and barriers are great tools at this stage. Don’t worry if they’re not instant best friends — simply being in the same space without drama is progress. As your rescue starts to relax, slowly stretch out the time and freedom they have together. Every pet has their own pace, so go slow and celebrate even the smallest wins.
  1. Think Parallel Play
    Side-by-side walks (with a bit of space) or feeding pets in separate areas where they can still see each other can go a long way to building positive associations. Soon enough, they’ll start linking “new friend” with “good things happen.” This kind of gentle reinforcement builds confidence and trust.
  1. Treats, Praise, Repeat
    Make a point of rewarding calm behaviour as often as possible. A wagging tail, a polite sniff, or even peacefully ignoring one another is worth a treat and enthusiastic “Good boy!” or “Good girl!” Snacks obviously work well, but rewards can also come in the form of praise, affection, or a good play session. The point is to notice and celebrate small steps forward, so your pets feel safe and supported.
  1. Learn Their Language
    Animals are always communicating through their body language. Watch for stress signals like stiff posture, pinned ears, low growling, or intense staring. When you notice any of these, pause the interaction and try again later. Respecting their signals is one of the best ways to not only keep everyone safe but build trust.
  1. Patience, Patience, Patience
    Patience is key. Resist the temptation to hurry the process and don’t worry if you feel things are moving too slowly. Like their human counterparts, animals need time to get comfortable and build trust. There may be a few setbacks along the way, but keeping a calm, consistent routine will help everyone adjust.
  1. Don’t Leave Them Alone (Yet)
    Until you’re sure they’re best buds, keep them separated when you’re not around. Once your new rescue can interact calmly with your current pets, then you can think about leaving them unsupervised for short periods. Start small and gradually increase the time as they get used to it. Celebrate every milestone and reinforce positive interactions with treats, praise, and playtime.
  1. Ask for Backup if Needed
    Struggling? Reach out to TEARS Animal Rescue or a qualified trainer for guidance. Sometimes a little expert advice is all it takes to smooth out the issues. They can provide tailored strategies to help your pets feel more at ease and build stronger bonds. With their support, you can overcome any challenges. Remember, patience and positivity are key.

Inviting a rescue animal into your home is a truly rewarding experience, but it’s not without its challenges. Knowing this upfront and having the right tools at hand to deal with issues as they arise will make all the difference. Remember, patience and love are the answer to almost any situation. With enough of both, all your fur friends and you will be snuggling together on the couch in no time.

Source: Tears

Celebrating the Unbreakable Bond: Dogs as Companions and Our Responsibility

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Celebrating the Unbreakable Bond: Dogs as Companions and Our Responsibility

FOUR PAWS South Africa marks International Dog Day with a call for compassion, commitment, and responsible pet ownership.

As the world prepares to honour our four-legged friends on International Dog Day this 26 August, FOUR PAWS South Africa is spotlighting the deep companionship dogs offer—and the importance of being responsible guardians in return.

Whether curled up at our feet or standing loyally by our side, dogs bring joy, comfort, and unconditional love into our lives. But this special relationship comes with responsibility. This International Dog Day, FOUR PAWS is urging South Africans to not only celebrate their dogs, but to reaffirm their role in providing safe, loving, and cruelty-free homes to the animals they care for.

“Dogs aren’t just animals we share our homes with—they’re family,” says Fiona Miles, Director at FOUR PAWS South Africa. “In South Africa, dogs play vital roles in communities as companions, helpers, and guardians. Responsible pet ownership means ensuring these animals are protected, healthy, and treated with the dignity they deserve.”

Through its community outreach projects, FOUR PAWS South Africa has witnessed firsthand the impact of irresponsible pet ownership—ranging from overpopulation and untreated disease, to neglect and abandonment. As part of its work, the organisation provides free sterilisation, vaccinations, and education programmes across rural and underserved communities to promote long-term change.

What Responsible Pet Ownership Means:

  • Providing clean water, proper food, shelter, and veterinary care.
  • Spaying or neutering your pets to prevent overpopulation and suffering.
  • Ensuring pets are kept safe, not left to roam or chained for extended periods.
  • Understanding the emotional needs of your dog—companionship, love, and mental stimulation.
  • Committing to your dog’s wellbeing for their entire life.

Beyond physical care, dogs need mental enrichment, companionship, and protection from harmful environments. Abandonment, abuse, and backyard breeding remain serious challenges in South Africa, but they can be prevented through education and community-led solutions. “This day is a celebration—but also a reminder,” says Miles. “A reminder that when we take a dog into our homes, we make a promise: to love, protect, and care for them responsibly. Let’s make sure we live up to that promise.”

FIVE Ways to Celebrate International Dog Day Responsibly:

  1. Adopt, don’t shop – Choose to give a rescue dog a loving home.
  2. Vaccinate and sterilise your pets to prevent unnecessary suffering.
  3. Volunteer at a local animal shelter or support a mobile outreach clinic.
  4. Speak out against animal cruelty and report neglect or abuse.
  5. Celebrate your dog’s life – share your story using #InternationalDogDay and tag @FOURPAWSSA.

For more information, visit our website www.four-paws.org.za 

Source: Four Paws

A natural Life for a Guinea pig

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A natural Life for a Guinea pig

Interesting background facts about these lovely rodents

Although they were domesticated around 500 years ago, guinea pigs haven’t lost their original instincts. Their natural habitat is the mountains of South America, where the climate is tough, making them highly adaptable. Guinea pigs live in small family groups of three to ten. They spend most of their day looking for food together, covering great distances and always following the same paths. As defenceless prey animals, they avoid open areas without shelter, moving quickly from one patch of cover to the next.

Clan animals

There’s nothing worse for a guinea pig than living alone. No matter how attentive an owner may be, he or she will never make up for the absence of other guinea pigs. Other species – such as rabbits – are no better as substitutes: a guinea pig’s well-being depends heavily on physical and social contact with other guinea pigs.

For guinea pigs to have the social contact they need, they must live in groups of at least two. If they’re kept in groups of three or more, they will be significantly more active. They will stimulate each other and have better social lives, giving rise to a dynamic little community. Males establish social hierarchies, with alpha males dominating the lower-status males. When it comes to potential mates and territory, males can become very aggressive.

Mobile and shy animals

Mobile and shy animals Guinea pigs are naturally compelled to be active, to gnaw, and to hide away. In the wild, they busy themselves digging holes and burrows to hide in. Some species are excellent rock climbers and will also climb in low shrubs, jumping from branch to branch.

They are shy animals – and not without reason, as they have many natural enemies, including wild cats, coyotes, wolves, snakes, hawks, owls and humans. In some cultures, these cute little mammals are seen as a source of food or an ingredient in traditional medicines.

Vegetarians

Guinea pigs are herbivores, eating only plants. In the wild, depending on their habitat, their diet consists mainly of grasses, hay, various plants and herbs, seeds, twigs, bark and occasionally roots. Such foods – which are rich in fibre and contain plenty of vitamin C – should also form the basis of a domestic guinea pig’s diet, with the addition of a few extra side dishes as needed. For more on this, see our guide ‘A balanced diet for a guinea pig’.

Source: Four Paws

10 Facts about Rabbits

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10 Facts about Rabbits

You can house-train them, do clicker training and much more

  • The oldest rabbit was 18 years old: ‘Flopsy’ was originally a wild rabbit. Under the care of its owner, it turned 18 years and 10 months and entered the Guinness Book of Records as the oldest rabbit.
  • Rabbits can move their ears independently in all directions. The rabbit can perceive 360 degrees of its environment without having to turn its head.
  • Rabbits cannot vomit: The smooth musculature of the oesophagus allows movement only in one direction. Knowing this is very important, because it demonstrates the need for a balanced diet.
  • Rabbits can be house-training: You can do that with a few simple tricks. Since rabbits like to use several corners for their business, their owners should set up several toilets accordingly.
  • Rabbits can jump high: In June 1997, “Mimrelund’s Tösen” from Denmark made a jump of 99.5 cm in height and thus a jump into the Guinness Book of Records.

rabbit

  • Rabbits can die of fear: In the wild, rabbits belong to the loot-animals. That’s where their terrible nature explains it. Loud noises, sudden violent movements can cause extreme fear in the animal and lead to a fatal heart attack.
  • Rabbit teeth grow constantly: These are the incisors and molars, which grow back for life; the incisors grow up to 1.5-1.8 mm per week. The abrasion of the teeth takes place through a sufficient number of grinding movements during the grinding of the food. Suitable feed such as grass and hay guarantee sufficient grinding movements.
  • Rabbits can reproduce between the age of 4-6 months. With bigger breeds, sexually maturity begins only later. Owners who would like to avoid offspring, should therefore let its rabbits be castrated in time.
  • Rabbits are highly social comrades: They clean each other, eat together and like to lie next to each other.

Source: Four Paws

How to Design a Habitat For Mice

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How to Design a Habitat For Mice

Mice are intelligent animals and need an engaging enclosure

The design of an enclosure for pet mice should be carefully tailored to the nature and needs of these active animals. Pet mice are known for their natural instincts to move, to dig, to explore and for their climbing skills, and in the wild, they live in caves and passages. This must all be taken into consideration when designing their habitat.

What you have to know about location and furnishings of a enclosure
The position of the enclosure should be quiet, bright and free from draughts, heat and cigarette smoke. The animals feel comfortable at a room temperature of 20-24° C and react sensitively to slight temperature fluctuations and humidity. A location close to a heating system is not recommended, as the dry air can lead to respiratory diseases in pet mice.

Since free running outside the enclosure is possible only occasionally, the mice’s enclosure must be large enough and varied enough for the curious animals to pursue their urge for exercise and investigation. Most cages offered on the market are inadequate. For two to four animals an enclosure with a floor area of at least 0.5 square metres is required.

Enclosures with grids are good for keeping pet mice, as they guarantee sufficient and constant ventilation.

Important enclosure furnishings include:

  • Different levels (three-dimensional structuring)
  • Little house to sleep in
  • Nest material (hay, kitchen paper)
  • Tubes (wood, cardboard, clay)
  • Suitable branches (for gnawing)
  • Hemp ropes
  • Ladders
  • Swings
  • Shelter and retreat possibilities
  • Climbing poles
  • Labyrinths
  • Mouse-friendly wheel

Inappropriate accessories: 

  • Hamster balls
  • plastic tube systems
  • spoked hamster wheels
  • hamster wheels not closed on the axle side!

Do it yourself: 
In order to keep the habitat interesting for the pet mice, the equipment should be changed at regular intervals. You can use your imagination, creativity and craftsmanship here! Nature offers a lot of ‘building blocks’ for climbing possibilities and shelter – wood discs of different heights are perfect for constructing stairs for the pet mice. A cave woven from willow branches not only looks pretty but is a great shelter. Small houses can be built easily with some wood and a few screws.

Source: FOUR PAWS

500 Extra Pet Sterilisations in Khayelitsha

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500 Extra Pet Sterilisations in Khayelitsha

The Mdzananda Animal Clinic and Shelter in Khayelitsha will be sterilising and additional 500 dogs and cats in just two months, commencing 29th July 2025, as part of a mass sterilisation campaign to reduce the number of unwanted pet litters in the community. This is on top of their yearly approximate 3000 sterilisations performed in the Khayelitsha and surrounding community.

Sterilisation is one of the most effective ways to address pet overpopulation, reduce the spread of disease, and prevent the suffering of animals born into homes or streets unable to care for them. It also improves pets’ health and wellbeing, preventing certain cancers and infections.

“We are excited to launch this campaign and significantly impact the lives of many dogs and cats and, in so doing, create a better environment for pets and their pet owners in Khayelitsha,” says Samantha Mann, General Manager. “We have been signing pets up for sterilisation for the last few months and educating about the importance of sterilisation.”

Thanks to a significant donation from a granting foundation, Mdzananda is close to its goal but still needs to raise R60 000 to cover the full cost of the project. The Clinic is appealing to the public for 100 people to donate R600 each to sponsor a sterilisation.

“Even if the full R600 isn’t possible, any donation towards a sterilisation will be appreciated,” says Marcelle du Plessis, Fundraising and Communications Executive at Mdzananda Animal Clinic. “Together we can make an enormous difference in the current and future pet population in Khayelitsha.”

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Donations can be made to Mdzananda Animal Clinic, Nedbank, Current Account, Branch Code: 198765, Acc: 1314465147, Reference: Steri + Your Name

Alternatively, visit www.mdzananda.co.za for SnapScan and additional donation portals.

The Mdzananda Animal Clinic and Shelter has been serving the Khayelitsha community since 1996 and treats up to 1500 animals per month through a hospital, theatre, homeless shelter, mobile clinics and animal ambulance. Education is of great importance, being extended to the community through various outreach programmes to encourage responsible pet ownership.

Source: Mdzananda Animal Clinic 

My Dog Attacks Other Dogs at Gates

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My Dog Attacks Other Dogs at Gates

One minute your sweet loving dog is lying relaxing in the sun outside, or playing happily with your other dog, and the next minute he is tearing down to your gate, looking like he is going to kill the dog walking by with his owner – how dare he come near my gate, just not acceptable, I will make sure it does not happen again – the behaviour says!

This behaviour does not only occur at gate – you may have a dog that is inside the house, and a security gate is preventing it going out, or it occurs when the dog is looking out the window – in all these situations, the dog tends to go bananas as another dog walks by. 

This is not an uncommon event with dogs, and in dog behaviour terms is known as either barrier aggression, fence aggression or barrier frustration. What is interesting with dogs that behave in this manner, is that often they are totally friendly and sociable with other dogs they meet – not all however!

Why Does This Behaviour Occur?

Very often a combination the factors below could be the reason. 

  • Frustration is a common reason – it could be that the normally friendly dog is totally frustrated not being able to go and say hello, however, the behaviour can easily and quickly escalate. 
  • Frustration and Boredom – the dog may not be receiving sufficient physical, mental or even social interaction. It has found a great way of entertaining itself, although we humans and the dog and owner on the other side of the gate may not find it entertaining!
  • Fear – yes fear can be a factor! Approximately 98% of aggressive behaviour is due to fear, just the behaviour exhibited has gradually increased from perhaps a growl until it looks like a full blown attack taking place. Think about this from a dogs point of view – if I appear big enough, nasty enough, the threat will leave!
  • Owner inadvertently reinforcing the behaviour by shouting, screaming at the dog – remember that to a dog, attention is attention, whether negative or positive!
  • Previous experiences. The dog may have been attacked himself when he was out with his own owner, and by exhibiting the aggressive behaviour the dog is trying to ensure it will not happen again – he is behind a gate, so is safe.

​Can this behaviour escalate?

Most certainly yes, and these are some of the things that can occur:-

  • The behaviour can become more and more extreme. Each and every time this aggressive behaviour occurs it tends to escalate, and again, from a dogs point of view, the perceived threat left, so the behaviour worked and will be repeated.
  • There are other dogs in the home and they come down to see what is happening and start to bark and act up as well. The initial dog’s arousal levels may get so high that it will exhibit what is called redirected behaviour, and in total frustration will turn on the other dog. This can end up with serious consequences. 
  • The owner tries to interfere to stop the dog – dog turns on the owner and a bite can ensue – the arousal levels have just gone so high that the dog is reacting, not thinking at all. 
  • Not all dogs walking by will accept the aggressive behaviour and may react with aggression in return. This increases aggression in both dogs and the likelihood that they will become aggressive to other dogs when out for walks, and even other dogs in the home.
  • If it is a small dog on the other side of the gate and it is reacting back and there is a gap in the gate at the bottom, or the bars are set wide apart, the small dog can be pulled under the gate or through the bars – this happens, and mostly when it is one of the fighting dog breeds involved. 
  • The gate may open unexpectedly! One of two things normally occurs in this situation – either the aggressing dog will run back towards the house, or heavens forbid he will go through the gate and a serious fight ensues. It is not unusual in these circumstances for the owner walking the other dog to be bitten trying to stop the fight – this is a serious and very dangerous situation. 
  • When engaging in gate aggression, both adrenaline and cortisol are surging through the dogs body and it is in an aroused state and may even be over threshold. Although the behaviour may stop, it does take time for the adrenaline and cortisol levels to drop, and there is always the chance that the aggressive behaviour could occur in another situation.

Not all owners realize that instances such as above can occur and it is of the utmost importance that behaviour such as this is stopped immediately.

Management and Prevention

  • Deny the dog access to the gate – put the dog in another area of the garden where it cannot access the gate.
  • Often suggestions are made to put shade cloth or similar against the gate so that the dog cannot see outside. In some instances this will help to prevent the behaviour, however, with some dogs it can actually increase the frustration.
  • If a situation where the dog goes nuts when inside but is prevented by going outside by a security gate – either keep the main door closed, put shade cloth or similar over the gate to prevent the dog seeing out. 
  • If the dog is engaging at the behaviour at a window, keep the dog out of this room, or shut the curtains. 
  • Ensure that the dog is receiving regular walks and mental stimulation such as safe chew toys, digging pits

We believe any situation where aggression is in place, that a professional should be called in and below will give you an idea of the work that may be done to change the behaviour. 

Changing this Behaviour

We believe that all aggression should be handled by a professional behaviourist, and one with sufficient experience. A trainer is not a behaviourist, and neither is somebody that has done an on-line course over a few months. Becoming a behaviourist involves at least 2 – 4 years of study – understanding dogs – how they think and act, in-depth knowledge of body language, practical experience, understanding of stress, arousal, threshold, triggers that could be contributing towards the behaviour, as well as knowledge of all the modifications that can be used. It is up to the owner to request a copy of the behaviourists qualifications to ensure that they are entrusting their beloved dog to somebody that has the knowledge and experience to change the behaviour and that the behaviourist works only with positive reinforcement methods. Anybody that suggests alpha rolls, jabbing, aversive equipment such as shock collars etc, should be totally avoided. These are the old fashioned methods of working with dogs, and can cause untold long term harm and totally damage your relationship with your dog. 

The first thing the behaviourist will do is to determine why the behaviour is actually happening, and that the dogs mental, physical and social needs are being met. They will also examine your overall relationship with the dog and see if any factors in this regard are contributing to the behaviour and show you how to change same. 

After the above has been examined and any modifications needed brought in, the behaviourist will probably use a method called counter conditioning. Simply put, counter conditioning involves changing the way a dog feels about something – they are going to change the trigger (the dog on the other side of the gate) with something the dog loves – food, and not just regular old kibble, something delicious such as biltong or liver bread or some other favourite treat – this will change the dogs feelings towards dogs going by the gate. 

The owner will probably be given knowledge and tools to be able to call the dog back successfully in the event it does dash towards the gate. 

What is important, is that if a dog is engaging in this behaviour, that owners get help as soon as possible – the longer the behaviour is in place, the longer it can take to change, and the more difficult it can be. 

Source: Friends of the dog