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Old World vs. New World Parrots: Precautions That Need to Be Taken in a Multi-Species Household

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Old World vs. New World Parrots: Precautions That Need to Be Taken in a Multi-Species Household

We have all heard that it is a bad idea to keep old world and new world parrots together but why is this? Are aviculturists just pedantic or is this something we should be aware of? Parrots can be broadly classified into old world and new world divisions – with old world parrots being classified as those originating from Asia, Africa, and Australia, new world parrots on the other hand originate from South America, Central America, and Mexico. Generally old world parrots can be classified as dusty and new world parrots as non-dusty species – this classification has to do with the methods these parrots use to keep their feathers in pristine condition.

The dusty old world parrots (most notably cockatiels, cockatoos, and African Greys) have a large proportion of powder down feathers scattered among their normal down feathers – powder down feathers are not molted but instead break down over time to produce a fine dust layer which, in combination with oils produced by the preen gland, keep the feathers clean and bacteria free. New world parrots (most notably macaws) on the other hand tend to have adapted to high humidity conditions as found in rainforests and use regular bathing (in lakes, streams, and even rainwater) along with oil from their preen glands to keep their feathers clean. This is all very well, but why then can’t we keep dusty and non-dusty birds together?

Dust to dust

Cassie and Echo, an Orange Wing and Blue-Fronted Amazon bonded pair that was recently surrendered to Cheeky Beaks Rescue, can easily be housed together as they are both subspecies of the same parrot.

Recently avian veterinary specialists began to describe a condition where non-dusty birds developed severe respiratory symptoms (wheezing, coughing, and difficulty breathing) – the one thing all these birds had in common was that they shared a living space with dusty parrots. It was realized that these ill new world birds were being affected by the copious amounts of fine dust produced by the old world parrots and unfortunately by the time the bird started showing symptoms it was either to late to save the bird or permanent respiratory damage resulted.

Oil glands vs. powder glands

Eclectus parrots have a very specific trait that almost sets them apart entirely from other species – they have an oil gland instead of a powder gland, like the majority of parrots. This means that Eclectus are particularly sensitive to airborne pollutants, such as dander from Old World species. Pictured: Pistachio, a male Eclectus in foster care with our Gauteng branch at Cheeky Beaks Rescue.

I own both old world and new world parrots – what should I do?

Firstly it is imperative to separate your old world and new world species – either by housing them in different rooms or different aviaries, unfortunately in many cases this is not enough as the fine powder down tends to spread throughout the whole house, not just the room where the old world parrot is kept, therefore you should also:

  1.  Ensure your old world parrots bathe regularly – even if this means you have to spray them down (with a fine mister). The water will trap the dust particles and make them less likely to spread. 
  2. Invest in an air purifier (these can be purchased at large pharmacies) – the air purifier will trap most of the dust produced by the old world parrots. 
  3. Change the cage substrate (newspaper/paper liners/paper pellets etc.) more frequently – at least once a day is recommended – you can also mist the substrate down before changing it so that dust particles are not released by the motion associated with cleaning the cage. 
  4. Take both species to a secure outdoor area as frequently as possible – the outdoors is the best ventilation system you can hope to find.

Nothing like Cockatoo dander

The feather dander produced by the white cockatoo species quite a handful for any parrot owner familiar with it. It is also the most visible because of its starkly pale colouring – and believe us, it sticks to clothing, furniture and almost any other surface like an absolute menace. Owning a cockatoo definitely reminds us how ever-present large amounts of feather dander is in our home atmosphere on a day-to-day basis. Pictured: Dosh, the Umbrella cockatoo – another Cheeky Beaks Rescue bird in Gauteng.

Do all old world parrots produce feather down dust?

All parrots whether old world or new world produce dust to some degree – the main difference is the dust in old world parrots tends to be very fine and is produced in large amounts, whereas the dust in new world parrots is more granular and produced in a lesser quantity. Not all old world parrots are dusty – the brown headed parrot is an example, similarly some new world parrots produce a finer dust, such as the Amazon parrot (they do not have preen glands and rely on dust for feather hygiene). As a general rule if the parrot species originates from an arid area or a grassland type setting they will have finer dust, whereas parrots from tropical areas produce more granular dust.

Hypoallergenic parakeets?
 If you are prone to respiratory issues such as asthma, you might want to look at which parrot species are less likely to inflame your chest if you’re a prospective parrot owner. Parakeet species such as Indian Ringnecks, Pionus parrots, Eclectus parrots and even macaws are known to produce less dander than birds like African Greys, Amazons and Cockatoos.

What’s the moral of the story?

If you have old world parrots and new world parrots you need to take precautions to ensure your new world parrots do not get respiratory issues from fine dust. If you are considering adding another parrot to your flock, rather go for the classification you already have (i.e. if you have old world parrots get another old world parrot). Your birds are reliant on you to care for them – do not play with their health and well-being by exposing them to known dangers.

Written By: Kathleen Boshoff

Source: Cheeky beaks

Winter care for your feathered friend

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Winter care for your feathered friend

As the winter months approach, it’s essential to pay special attention to the well-being of your beloved parrots. These beautiful creatures have unique needs that require extra care during the colder seasons. By following a few guidelines, you can ensure that your feathered friends stay healthy and happy throughout the winter.

Adequate rest:

One fundamental aspect of parrot care is providing them with adequate rest. Just like humans, parrots need their sleep when the sun goes down. During the winter months, the days are shorter, and it’s crucial to create a conducive environment for their natural sleep patterns. Designate a quiet, dark room where your parrot can settle in for the night. Covering the cage with a lightweight, breathable cloth can help create a sense of darkness and security, mimicking their natural habitat. By ensuring they have an undisturbed rest, you’re helping them maintain their physical and mental well-being.

Increased food consumption:

In addition to creating a suitable sleep environment, it’s vital to meet their nutritional needs. During the winter, birds, including parrots, may naturally increase their food consumption. This is because their bodies need extra energy to stay warm in colder temperatures. As a responsible parrot owner, it’s important to provide them with a well-balanced diet to support their overall health. Include fresh fruits, vegetables, and high-quality parrot pellet. These provide essential vitamins, minerals, and nutrients that are crucial for their immune system and vitality. Additionally, you can offer treats, as these can be a great source of healthy fats for your feathered friend. Our snacks range from our Veggie Treats to Tropical Sensation are perfect for this. 

Correct water temperature:

While ensuring a nutritious diet, it’s equally important to provide ample access to fresh water. Parrots, like all living creatures, require hydration for their bodily functions. In colder weather, the water may get chilled quickly, so it’s essential to regularly check and replace it with fresh, lukewarm water. Avoid using metal containers that can retain the cold, and opt for ceramic or plastic bowls that are easy to clean and maintain. If you use plastic bowls please make sure that they are good quality and that they don’t break easily as your feathered friend can swallow the plastic. 

Hygienic Environment:

Maintaining a clean and hygienic living space for your parrot is crucial, especially during the winter when they spend more time indoors. Regularly clean their cage, including the bars, perches, and tray, to prevent the accumulation of droppings and potential bacteria. Replace the bedding material and wipe down the surfaces with a bird-safe disinfectant to ensure a healthy living environment. This practice reduces the risk of respiratory issues and keeps your parrot’s overall well-being in check.

More interaction:

Remember, parrots are social animals that thrive on interaction and attention from their human companions. The winter months can sometimes bring a sense of isolation, so it’s crucial to spend quality time with your parrot. Engage them in interactive play, teach them new tricks, or simply enjoy their company through gentle conversation. Your love and attention will create a positive and stimulating environment for your parrot, warding off any feelings of loneliness during the colder days.

Conclusion:

In conclusion, caring for your parrot during the winter months involves some additional considerations, but the rewards are immeasurable. By providing a quiet, dark room for sleep, ensuring a nutritious diet with ample food and water, maintaining a clean living space, and showering them with love and attention, you are safeguarding their health and happiness during the winter season. Cherish these delightful creatures and embrace the joys of being a responsible parrot owner all year round.

Source: Nature’s Nest

What is wrong with parrot owners?

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What is wrong with parrot owners?

The harsh reality of parrot ownership is that most owners are NOT FULFILLING THEIR NEEDS!

How do you not understand that parrots are not just beautiful, exotic pets to show off, but highly intelligent, emotionally complex creatures that require constant care and a lifetime commitment? Parrots are not meant to be kept in small cages, ignored, fed terrible diets, and neglected while their basic needs go unmet. Too many people take on the responsibility of owning a parrot without the slightest clue about what it truly takes to care for one of these incredible creatures. We see the birds pay the price!

Parrots are wild animals, not just pets. They live for decades—sometimes over 50 years—and during that time, they need a variety of things to thrive. The idea that a parrot can be happy in a small cage with a few seeds and no stimulation is not only wrong, it’s cruel. If you’re one of those people who thinks that keeping a parrot in a cage all day is acceptable, I’m here to tell you—it’s not, and you are failing the animal.

THE CAGE IS TOO SMALL

Let’s start with a basics one: the size of the cage. Parrots are flight animals. In the wild, they fly long distances daily, exploring, foraging, and interacting with their environment. A cage, no matter how large, is not enough. Birds must be able to stretch their wings, fly, and explore outside the confines of their cage as well as get some sunlight. Yet, many parrot owners trap their birds in cages so small that the parrot can hardly move properly, let alone engage in natural behaviours like flying or climbing.

A small cage is a physical and mental prison for a bird. The cramped space leads to frustration, aggression, and depression, and many harmful behaviours. A parrot needs space to move and freedom to fly. If you don’t have the space to let your parrot fly, then you shouldn’t have one at all.

parrot

LACK OF ENRICHMENT

Next, we get to the issue of enrichment. Parrots are highly intelligent animals, capable of solving complex problems, mimicking human speech, and learning tricks. Yet, they are often left in cages with no toys, no puzzles, and no opportunities to engage their minds.

Parrots in the wild are constantly challenged: they have to find food, navigate their environment, and interact with their flock. In captivity, when these birds are deprived of mental stimulation, they develop boredom and behavioural problems like feather plucking, screaming, and destructive behaviour.

If you’re leaving a parrot in a cage with only a couple of poorly chosen toys—maybe a swing or a mirror—then you’re doing it all wrong. Birds need variety: toys to chew on, puzzles to solve, and foraging opportunities to stimulate their natural instincts. And these toys need to be rotated regularly (almost daily)—parrots don’t stay entertained by the same thing day in and day out. If you’re not providing your bird with these essential forms of stimulation, you’re neglecting one of their most basic needs.

parrot

THE DIET CRISIS

You might think you’re feeding your parrot well by giving it sunflower seeds. Think again. The majority of commercial bird seed mixes are high in fat and nutritionally inadequate. A diet of mostly sunflower seeds can cause obesity, liver disease, and heart problems in parrots. Birds need a balanced diet that includes fresh fruits, vegetables, grains, and specialized pellets designed to meet their nutritional needs. If you are not willing to make them fresh food daily, then you are failing them.

By feeding them an improper diet, you’re not only robbing them of the opportunity to thrive—you’re setting them up for health problems that could drastically shorten their lives. And let’s not even mention how many people don’t offer their birds clean water, fresh food, or even properly cleaned dishes daily.

parrot

THE EMOTIONAL ISOLATION

Parrots are social animals, and in the wild, they live in flocks. They communicate with each other, they play, and they take care of one another. But in captivity, many parrots are kept isolated in cages, often without any opportunities to interact with other birds. While some may bond with their human owners, this is no substitute for the natural social structure they need.

Isolation leads to emotional stress and behavioural issues. Birds deprived of proper socialization can become aggressive, withdrawn, or excessively noisy. It’s not enough to just put a parrot in a cage and throw a bit of food at them. They need attention, companionship, and regular interaction with both humans and, ideally, other birds. If you can’t offer that, you should reconsider owning a parrot.

THE IMPORTANCE OF VETERINARY CARE

When was the last time you took your parrot to the vet? I’m not talking about a quick checkup every few years—I mean regular visits to ensure your bird is in good health. Far too many parrot owners skip the vet entirely. Birds are experts at hiding illness, and by the time symptoms become visible, it’s often too late. Regular checkups are essential to catch problems early, and a responsible owner should be proactive about ensuring their bird’s health.

In addition to routine vet visits, parrots need vitamins, deworming, and disease prevention. Yet, many parrot owners neglect these basic health needs, leaving their birds vulnerable to illness and suffering.

It is important to see an Avian veterinarian, who specializes with these creatures. Not all vets know enough about parrots.

parrot

THE BOTTOM LINE: ARE YOU READY FOR THE COMMITMENT?

Parrots are not pets for the faint of heart. They are a 40+ year commitment, and if you can’t meet their needs, then you shouldn’t have one. Parrots are not toys, not accessories to show off, and not status symbols. They are living, breathing, feeling creatures that deserve to be treated with the utmost care and respect. If you are planning to get a parrot, read this, volunteer at a parrot rescue like Brainy Birds – Parrot Rescue and Rehabilitation (consider donating to their work), and talk to our local parrot educator Shy first!

If you can’t provide your parrot with enough space, enrichment, socialization, proper diet, and medical care, then don’t get a parrot. There are far too many parrots suffering in silence because their owners didn’t think through the enormity of the commitment. Birds, big or small, are not good pets for children.

Do better. Don’t take on the responsibility of an animal unless you can meet all of their needs. Stop buying parrots on a whim or because they look cute. They deserve so much more than what you’re giving them. Stop buying parrots for you aged parents!

If you can’t commit to giving your parrot a life of freedom, care, and love, then perhaps it’s time to consider a different kind of pet—one that’s better suited to your lifestyle. But if you are ready to make the lifelong commitment, then step up and provide your bird with the life it deserves. Also, make sure they are provided for in your Will!

Shy is our local parrot educator, who helps with healthy diet changes and enrichment, and arranges for the Avian vet to visit Secunda, hosted by Vetcross Eendedam.  Please contact her for guidance on your parrot care. 083 6539755.  You can also follow The Paw Company and search #parrot or #bird on the page for many educational posts.

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If you can no longer or properly care for your bird, consider surrendering the bird to a parrot rescue.  Shy will advise on this.  Do not just give the bird, but donate to the organization that is cleaning up your mess.

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, YOU DO BETTER!

Source:  The Bulletin

Building Healthy Routines: Daily Habits to Promote Your Parrot’s Wellness

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Building Healthy Routines: Daily Habits to Promote Your Parrot’s Wellness

Just like humans, parrots thrive on routine. Establishing a healthy daily schedule for your feathered friend can significantly impact their physical health, mental stimulation, and overall well-being. From feeding habits to playtime, each part of a parrot’s day plays a vital role in keeping them happy, active, and healthy.In this blog, we’ll explore simple yet effective daily habits you can incorporate to build a balanced routine that promotes your parrot’s wellness and happiness.

1. Rise and Shine: The Importance of a Morning Routine

Mornings are an important time for parrots, setting the tone for their day. In the wild, they wake up with the sun, stretch their wings, and prepare for foraging. At home, you can help mimic this natural behavior by:

  • Uncovering the Cage: If your parrot’s cage is covered at night, uncover it in the morning to let natural light in, helping regulate their sleep-wake cycle.
  • Morning Stretch: Allow your parrot some time outside the cage for a stretch and a flap. This is great for both their physical and mental stimulation. If your parrot is allowed outside the cage, always ensure their feathers are properly clipped to prevent accidents and keep them safe while they play.
  • Fresh Food and Water: Change their water and offer fresh fruits, veggies, and balanced pellets. Providing breakfast first thing in the morning helps them start the day with the energy they need. Our Avian Wholegrain is the perfect balanced food for breakfast. Refer to our feeding guide for the recommended daily amount of food—this can be split in half between breakfast and the afternoon feed.

2. Balanced Diet: Timing and Nutrition Matter

A balanced diet is crucial to your parrot’s health and vitality, but so is timing. Splitting meals throughout the day can keep them energized without overeating. Here’s how you can plan their feeding:

  • Morning and Afternoon Feeding: Offer balanced pellets and a mix of fresh fruits and vegetables. Variety is key—rotate what you provide to keep meals interesting.
  • Foraging Time: Create a more enriching mealtime by offering foraging opportunities. Place food in different parts of the cage or provide toys that encourage your parrot to “work” for their food.

Ensuring that meals are nutrient-rich and served at regular intervals helps promote digestion, maintain energy levels, and prevent overeating.

3. Enrichment Activities: Play, Exercise, and Mental Stimulation

Parrots are intelligent, social creatures that require daily exercise and mental stimulation. Boredom can lead to behavioral issues like feather plucking or excessive vocalization, so it’s important to include enrichment activities as part of their routine:

  • Playtime and Exercise: Aim for at least 1-2 hours outside the cage each day for physical activity. Whether it’s flying around, climbing, or playing with toys, exercise is essential for keeping your parrot fit. If your parrot’s feathers are clipped, ensure they can safely play and move around within the limits of their ability to fly.
  • Interactive Toys and Games: Offer a variety of toys, from puzzle feeders to chewable toys and bells. Rotate toys regularly to keep your parrot curious and engaged.
  • Training Sessions: Simple training sessions like teaching tricks, talking, or recall training (flying to you when called) are not only fun but also strengthen the bond between you and your bird.

For engaging and stimulating toys, our friends at The Parrot Supplies Company offer a great selection that your feathered companion will love.4. Social Time: Bonding and InteractionParrots are flock animals, meaning they thrive on social interaction. Set aside time every day to bond with your parrot, ensuring they feel loved and part of the family:

  • Daily One-on-One Time: Spend quality time with your parrot through petting, talking, or simply being near them. Even just sitting together and including them in your day-to-day activities can go a long way.
  • Introduce Them to New Experiences: Exposing your parrot to new environments, sounds, or people (in a controlled way) helps prevent fearfulness and encourages confidence and socialization.

5. Quiet and Restful Moments: The Importance of Nap and BedtimeParrots need restful periods throughout the day, not just at night. Ensure your parrot has time to relax and rest:

  • Midday Naps: Parrots may enjoy a short nap during the day, especially if they have had a busy morning. Provide a quiet space or cover part of their cage to give them a sense of privacy.
  • Consistent Bedtime Routine: A consistent sleep schedule is vital for your parrot’s health. Aim for around 10-12 hours of uninterrupted sleep in a dark, quiet environment. Covering the cage can help your bird settle down and feel secure.

6. Observation and Monitoring: Keeping an Eye on Health

A daily routine should include a quick health check to ensure your parrot is in top shape:

  • Check Food and Droppings: Monitor your parrot’s eating habits and droppings for any unusual changes. These can be early indicators of health issues.
  • Observe Behavior and Activity Level: Keep an eye out for any behavioral changes, lethargy, or physical signs like feather condition. Noticing any shifts early can help you address health problems promptly.

Conclusion: The Power of RoutineEstablishing a routine for your parrot is more than just sticking to a schedule—it’s about promoting a lifestyle that supports their physical health, mental well-being, and social needs. By building these healthy daily habits, you’re ensuring your parrot not only thrives but also enjoys a happy, enriching life as your feathered companion.

Takeaway Tip:Remember, every parrot is unique, and routines may need to be adjusted to fit their individual preferences and health needs. Keep an eye on how your parrot responds to their schedule and be open to tweaking it as needed to keep them happy and healthy!

Source: Nature’s Nest

Are nuts safe for my parrot?

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Are nuts safe for my parrot?

A lot of new parrot owners may think that nuts are a staple food for birds, especially peanuts. This is not true and not all nuts are safe for your birds.

Peanuts receive a mixed reaction as peanuts are particularly susceptible to contamination during growth and storage. Poor storage of peanuts can lead to an infection by the mould fungus Aspergillus flavus, releasing the toxic substance aflatoxin. Birds with acute aspergillosis have severe difficulty breathing, decreased or loss of appetite, frequent drinking and urination, and even sudden death. Peanuts grow underground, making it more susceptible to fungus and other bacteria. Aspergillosis fungus is sometimes found in peanuts and causes a respiratory disease in birds which is very serious. Often symptoms don’t show immediately, and a bird’s instinct is to not show that they are sick. Due to this, your bird could die before you even knew it was sick. Birds with other underlying health problems are most at risk for the infection but the disease can infect any bird. Symptoms of Aspergillosis include; lethargy, poor appetite, gradual weight loss and difficulty breathing.

Blanched peanuts of human grade consumption quality are the safest (least likely to have the Aspergillosis fungus)

Peanuts are also high in fats and should thus be fed sparingly (if at all)

  • Almonds
  • Brazil nuts
  • Blanched peanuts
  • Cashews
  • Coconuts
  • Hazelnuts
  • Macadamia nuts
  • Palm nuts (ethically sourced)
  • Pecans
  • Pine nuts
  • Pistachio nuts
  • Walnuts

Feed all nuts in moderation. This is not a complete list. Please always research whether or not a food is safe before feeding it to your bird.

Written By: Danielle Haupt

Source: Cheeky Beaks

Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD)

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Disease

Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD)

PBFD is an extremely contagious disease often found in parrots that is caused by the Circovirus. It is unfortunately more often than not fatal even though many parrots have been known to live relatively long pain-free lives with it.

PBFD affects the beak, feathers, and immune system of birds in the Psittacidae family which includes but is not limited to what is known as “old world” birds (more dusty species from Africa and Australia) such as Cockatoos, African Grey parrots, Senegal or Meyer Parrots, Ringneck Parakeets, and Lovebirds. While it is still possible for New World parrots such as Macaws and Conures to contract PBFD the risk is much lower.

How is PBFD transmitted?

PBFD is extremely contagious. The most common transmission is from the feather dust of PBFD parrots. The feather dust is easily spread and can contaminate food, water, cages, clothing, and the environment they live in. PBFD is thought to be transmitted by inhalation or ingestion of the virus. It has been suggested that the virus may also be transmitted in utero from the mother to her eggs.

The incubation period could be as short as 21 to 25 days, however, it can take up to several years, depending on the age of the bird, the stage of feather development, and the health of the bird’s immune system, before they showing any signs of illness. Birds who have the disease might often be asymptomatic until stress brings it out, but they may are able to infect other birds before they become symptomatic.

What are the signs of PBFD?

  • Depression
  • Regurgitation
  • Diarrhea
  • Loss of appetite
  • Weight loss
  • Abnormal feather development.
  • Damaged feather follicles which means an inability to replace molted feathers
  • Elongated, deformed, or cracked beaks

There are both acute and chronic forms of the disease:

Acute Form:

The acute form commonly occurs in younger birds between 8 weeks and 8 months. Affected birds show signs such as depression, regurgitation, diarrhea, loss of appetite and weight, and abnormal feather development.

Juveniles losing their developing feathers may have lesions on the feathers, including circular bands around the feathers which constrict the feather at its base. These feathers are often loose, break easily, may bleed, and are very painful.

Chronic Form:

The chronic form of PBFD, is more common in older birds. As the feather follicles are damaged, the bird is unable to replace feathers. Feather abnormalities usually do not appear until the first molt after infection, which could be a period of up to 6 months.

Abnormal growth and deformities of the beak. Brown necrotic areas found inside the upper beak, and the beak may elongate, become deformed, and fracture.

Secondary beak and oral infections often occur. Birds with the chronic form can live for months or even years before dying due to secondary infections.

Diagnosing PBFD:

Most commonly, a PCR test is done to determine if a bird has PBFD, the test detects the presence of the virus. PCR test can also be used on swabs of surfaces in the environment to detect contamination.

What is the treatment?

There is no effective treatment for PBFD. PBFD is similar to HIV in humans, it weakens the immune system and makes the bird more susceptible to secondary infections. Controlling secondary infections and providing care such as good nutrition, beak trimming, and treatment of secondary infections and minimal stress is all that can be done.

Prevention

Keep Parrot species that are known to be carriers of PBFD separate from the more susceptible species is very important. New birds coming into your home or rescue facility should ALWAYS be quarantined and tested. “Bird owners need to understand that if they handle other people’s birds, it may be possible for them to bring the virus into their home and infect their birds. Good hygiene and sanitation should be used. There is no known disinfectant that kills this virus.”

Stories of PBFD birds:

Resources and further reading:

Disease

Written by: Marianka Meiring

Source: Cheeky Beaks

Multi-Pet Households

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Multi-Pet Households

So many people are under the impression that in order to be a good bird home you need to be home only for birds. We don’t believe this, in fact, many of us have multi-pet households. What we do believe is that these situations need to be monitored at all times, and safety is to be ensured for all animals.

We do not believe that predatory animals should have any interaction with prey animals. This means that birds and cats, dogs, ferrets, rodents, or any other predatory animal, should never interact with your bird.

Many people will argue that they’ve had successful interactions between their birds and cats or dogs, for many years, but all it takes is one time, and everything changes.

Mammal saliva is toxic to birds, this means ingestion thereof, as well as wounds inflicted by mammals, often prove fatal to beloved pet birds. This isn’t always done out of aggression, birds, and dogs cats are built very differently, they interact differently and they play differently. What your dog may see as playful behavior, could result in a scratch going unnoticed on your bird, and then the race against time begins, hoping that the expensive treatments work in time. It’s just not worth the risk.

Recently we’ve had a new member of the #oneleggedgang join our CB community, Pauli the Patagonian Conure (below). Pauli, and the rest of the family’s birds, lived happily with the dogs, often running between their legs. Until they didn’t. Pauli was safely in his outdoor aviary, climbing his way up the cage wall when a dog grabbed his leg and ripped it right off. It’s a miracle that he didn’t bleed to death. It may well have not been an act of aggression by the dog, it may have been playful, but the laws of physics and predator VS prey came into play, and Pauli will never be the same again. Thankfully Pauli survived, but not without having to adjust every aspect of his life to accommodate a disability that never should have happened.

Written By Abi Strachan

Source: Cheeky Beaks Parrot Rescue

The Perfect Perch: Choosing the Right Cage Size for Your Feathered Friends

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The Perfect Perch: Choosing the Right Cage Size for Your Feathered Friends

Welcome to the colorful and chirping world of pet birds and parrots! As a bird owner or a prospective one, you’ve likely pondered over the best ways to provide a comfortable and stimulating environment for your feathered friends. One of the most crucial aspects of bird care is selecting the right cage – it’s not just a space for your birds to dwell in, but their sanctuary and playground too. In this post, we’ll explore the essential considerations for choosing the correct cage size for your pet birds and parrots, ensuring their health, happiness, and longevity.

  1. 1. Understanding Space Requirements
    • Birds are not mere ornaments; they are intelligent, active, and social creatures that need space to live, play, and exercise. The size of the cage significantly impacts their quality of life. As a general rule, the cage should be large enough for your bird to comfortably spread its wings, hop around, and have a variety of perches at different levels and orientations.
    • Parrots, being highly intelligent and active, require more space than smaller bird species. They need room for toys, swings, and perhaps even a companion. A cage for a parrot should be spacious enough for them to fly short distances, as this promotes healthy exercise and mental stimulation.
  2. Size Guidelines by Species – Every bird species has its unique requirements:
    • Small Birds (Budgies, Canaries, Finches): For these tiny flyers, a cage measuring at least 45x45x45 cm is recommended. However, more space is always better, especially if you’re housing multiple birds or if the cage is their primary living space.
    • Medium Birds (Cockatiels, Lovebirds, Small Parakeets): These birds are more active and benefit from cages that are at least 60x60x60 cm. They enjoy flying horizontally, so a wider cage is preferred over a taller one.
    • Large Birds (African Greys, Amazons, Eclectus): These species require substantial space. A minimum cage size of 90x60x120 cm is suggested. Large parrots benefit from cages that allow them to climb and explore different levels.
    • Extra-Large Birds (Macaws, Large Cockatoos): The largest of pet birds, these species need cages that are a minimum of 90x120x150 cm. They require sturdy construction and ample space to accommodate their powerful beaks and large tails.
  3. Factors to Consider
    • Bar Spacing: Ensure the bar spacing of the cage is appropriate for your bird’s size. Too wide, and your bird might try to escape or get stuck; too narrow, and it can restrict visibility and interaction.
    • Shape and Orientation: Birds prefer living spaces that are wider than they are tall, as this mimics their natural flying patterns. While round cages might seem aesthetically pleasing, they are not recommended as birds can feel insecure without corners.
    • Material and Durability: Stainless steel iron cages are durable and safe choices. Beware of toxic materials, coatings or poorly galvanized cages that birds can ingest by chewing.
    • Ease of Cleaning: Look for cages with features that make cleaning less of a chore. Removable trays, swivel feeders, and doors that allow easy access to the interior are beneficial.
  4. Beyond the Cage: The Importance of Out-of-Cage Time
    • Remember, a cage, no matter how spacious or enriching, is no substitute for the freedom and interaction that birds need. Daily out-of-cage time in a bird-proofed room is crucial for their physical and mental well-being. It’s an opportunity for exercise, exploration, and bonding with you.
  5. Conclusion
    • Choosing the right cage for your pet bird or parrot is a fundamental step in ensuring their happiness and health. While the guidelines above offer a starting point, remember that bigger is generally better when it comes to your bird’s living space. Invest in a high-quality cage, enrich it with toys and perches, and supplement cage life with plenty of interaction and free-flight time. With the right environment, your feathered friends will thrive, bringing joy, color, and song into your home.

Source: Nature’s Nest

Hormonal behaviour in captive parrots

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Hormonal behaviour in captive parrots

A large percentage of birds in our network portray signs of hormonal behaviour. In the wild, hormonal behaviour may be triggered by factors that change with the seasons, such as extended hours of sunlight, higher food abundance, or warmer weather. While seasonal procreation is natural for parrots, constantly comfortable conditions in the household setting may contribute towards year-round hormonal behaviour in some parrots, while others remain affected only seasonally.

While parrots are capable of reading birdy body language, this understanding does not come as naturally in humans and must either be observed or learned. We love to anthropomorphize our pets and this is a huge mistake in parrot ownership. Misunderstanding your bird’s body language can lead to issues such as screaming, biting, fear, aggression, and hormonal behaviour. Many of these lead to the surrender or rehoming of the bird.

What does hormonal behaviour look like?

Hormonal behaviours can look different across species, so we encourage you to do your own research on the species you have in your home so you are best able to identify these behaviours and avoid any long lasting issues with your bird. The attached videos are good examples of some of the most common behaviours listed below.

Common signs of hormonal behaviour include:

  • Regurgitation on people/objects, or for other birds
  • Masturbation
  • Territorial issues
  • Wing dipping/flapping
  • Tail fanning
  • Panting
  • Nesting
  • Egg laying
  • Aggression
  • Feather plucking on legs and chest

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Why shouldn’t I encourage this behaviour?

In the wild, parrots engage in allopreening with a friend or mate. While head scratches are common, birds seldom get touched on their bodies unless there is intention of mating. Petting/touching on the back, under the wings and near the vent are mating signals in birds and can lead to sexual frustration in your feathered friend. Encouraging a bonded/mated relationship with your bird can cause your bird to become territorial over you or pluck its feathers, lead to seemingly unprovoked biting habits or screaming when you are out of sight and also increase the chances of egg binding in females. Feather plucking is a major concern in parrot ownership. Many times it is exacerbated by unaware owners unknowingly encouraging hormonal behaviours/failing to determine the underlying causes of the plucking in time (although this is only one of the many reasons a bird may pluck).

How can I prevent this and what can I do to help if it does happen?

There is no cookie-cutter solution to fix every situation. Most of the listed behaviours can also be a cause for medical concern so it is important to discuss any changes in behaviour/concerns you may have with your avian veterinarian. In some cases, medical intervention may be required in the form of a hormonal implant/injection should there be an underlying cause for the overactive hormonal behaviours.

If you have a young bird then set it up for success from the start. In the wild, young birds are fed and preened by their parents until they are mature enough to take care of their own survival. Encourage independence and foraging behaviours in young birds. Focus on enriching your bird’s life through target training and activities which engage their minds, rather than solely cuddling them. Do not touch your bird in a repetitive manner other than on their heads. Assisting them with their pin feathers is a great way to bond as a flock member, rather than as a potential mate. Avoid having nesting sites or mirrors in the cage and ensure your bird gets a good 10-12 hours of undisturbed sleep per day.

This article does not serve to diagnose or treat hormonal behaviours in parrots. The purpose of this article is merely to educate unaware owners of the factors contributing towards hormonal behaviour and steps they could take to reduce this in their homes. Always consult with your veterinarian if you may suspect there is something wrong with your bird.

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The behaviours depicted in these videos are for educational purposes and were not encouraged by their owners. Thank you to everyone who allowed us to use this footage.

Written by: Giselle Diemer

Source: Cheeky Beaks Parrot Rescue

Why you shouldn’t give your birds attention when they scream

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Why you shouldn’t give your birds attention when they scream

One of the most common reasons for parrots being surrendered is their screaming.

It is important to understand the reasons why your parrot is screaming and how to handle each scenario. Listen closely to your parrot and you’ll quickly realize that their screaming is due to either being bored, seeking attention, being injured, stressed, not feeling well or an expression of joy.

We unintentionally teach our parrots to scream when we pay attention to their screaming bouts. Research shows that if we want this behaviour to continue then we need to pay attention to it. We fail at trying to control the situation by yelling back at the parrot or by running to them every time they scream. We are positively reinforcing their bad behaviour by going to parrots and giving them the attention, they are demanding. Birds are very clever, they quickly learn that screaming will lead to attention, in this way they are training their owners instead of the other way around.

Yelling at your parrot when they are screaming, isn’t helping you at all. In the wild parrots ‘scream’ to locate each other or to communicate with each other about food, predators and they also ‘chat’ at dusk (flock calling). So, if you think they will respond to your yelling by being quiet you are mistaken, all you are doing is reinforcing their screaming as they take that that you are busy having a conversation with him/her. They see it as bonding time!

So, what can I do to decrease my parrot’s screaming bouts? One way is by rewarding them when they are playing by themselves and being quiet. The best way to respond to screaming is to ignore the screaming and positively reinforce quiet behaviour by paying attention to them during the times when they are playing quietly. After a while, they will notice that screaming does not accomplish the same response from you, and that quiet behaviour leads to the attention they desire. Rewarding positive behaviour is acceptable and ignoring unacceptable behaviour is the best way to deal with problem behaviours in parrots.

Written by: Marianka Meiring
Source: Cheeky Beaks