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Sterilisation – Conquering the Overpopulation Crisis of Cats and Dogs

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In a period of just six years, one female dog and her litter can reproduce up to 67 000 puppies! Similarly, in a period of 7 years, one female cat and her offspring can reproduce 370 000 kittens, and the numbers continue to increase exponentially from there! Unsterilised male dogs and cats are the prime contributors to this overpopulation crisis as they can impregnate a multitude of females within a short period of time, thereby producing countless unplanned litters.

To further aggravate the situation in South Africa, the following statistics were published by Statistics South Africa Census 2012, Eighty20 (SAARF Living Standard Measures 2012), South African Veterinary Council (SAVC 2012), World Society for the Protection of Animals (WSPA 2008), Animal Welfare and Private practices 2012, and South Africa Mass Animal Sterilisation Trust (SA.MAST) :

Over 40 million South Africans rely on animal welfare organisations to support their pets, however these establishments are under immense strain being only able to assist a segment of this population, thereby leaving innumerable animals without any access to basic veterinary care.

It’s been reported that South Africa has a grave scarcity of specialist surgeons, with only twelve practicing in the entire country. This problem is further exasperated by the fact that less than one surgical specialist is allocated per major city outside of Johannesburg and Pretoria. This amounts to approximately 870 000 homed dogs and cats for every surgeon. Older surgeons and veterinarians are also retiring from private and animal welfare practices, thereby causing a shortage of mentors to teach new graduates.

This explains why millions of innocent dogs, cats, puppies and kittens are euthanised every year, due to the shortage of both loving homes to take them in and people without access to animal welfare services. Sterilisation is the affordable, simple solution to saving millions of animals from a life of struggle with hunger, thirst, neglect, abuse or euthanisation in animal shelters because their forever family never arrives. As responsible pet parents, you can make the difference by sterilising (spaying or neutering) your pets to ensure no unplanned litters occur.

  • What is spaying and neutering of cats and dogs?
    Sterilisation (spaying or neutering) is when a qualified veterinarian performs a surgical procedure involving removal of a pet’s reproductive organs.

  • What are the Benefits of Sterilising my pet?

    Sterilisation in both male and female cats and dogs has many far-reaching benefits, namely:

    • Improved longevity and avoidance of unplanned litters.
    • Sterilised pets are less susceptible to contract some diseases such as Feline Immunodeficiency Virus in cats or the Transmissible Venereal Tumour virus in dogs.
    • Having your female cat or dog sterilised at an early age can further protect them from the later onset of critical health issues such as urinary infections and mammary gland cancer, which are found to be malignant in approximately 50 percent of dogs and 90 percent of cats.
    • Elimination of hormone-induced moodiness and uncomfortable, stressful symptoms associated with heat cycles.
    • Reduction of the frustrating behaviours of heat cycles, such as yowling and inappropriate urinating around the home.
    • Neutering male pets may reduce certain behaviourial problems related to the instinct of mating. This ensures they are far less likely to perform a Houdini-style escape from home to roam in search of a female mate, thereby reducing the chance of them being run over by a vehicle or getting into fights with other animals.
    • Altered males are less inclined to mark their territory around the home by spraying a strong-scent over all your household belongings. This should also eliminate the instinctive need to mount people, other dogs and nonliving objects.
    • Neutered males have a reduced chance of developing prostate and testicular cancer, thereby enhancing their quality and quantity of life.

Remember, whilst sterilising your male pet reduces their testosterone levels, there is no guarantee that their unfavourable behaviour will improve. This is because they may have become accustomed to certain learnt behaviours and there is the possibility that these habits will continue if left unchecked. At the end of the day, the outcomes of neutering are largely influenced by your pet’s unique character, biology and history.

  • Will altering my pet affect their weight?
    The process of spaying or neutering has been known to reduce the quantity of sex-related hormones which may lead to a decrease in a pet’s metabolic rate, but a lifestyle of regular exercise and a healthy diet will ensure your pet is kept slim, fit and shapely. A pet’s age, breed and level of activity are also factors when taking dietary concerns into account. Portion servings and exercise regimes will need to be adjusted accordingly as your pet gets on in years and depending on whether their breed is prone to weight gain.
  • How can you teach your children about “the miracle of birth”?
    There is a wealth of information available in the form of books, videos and online programmes to responsibly teach your children about reproduction. Allowing your pet to breed is not only teaching your child to be reckless, but it’s contributing to the current calamity of countless pets dying in shelters because there’s a deficit of loving homes for the rapidly growing population.
  • Is sterilization safe?
    Spaying or neutering of pets is the most commonly performed surgical procedure conducted by veterinarians. Your furry friend will receive a general anesthetic during the procedure and pain medication to manage any associated pain thereafter, thus experiencing moderate pain and discomfort. The occurrence of complications resulting from these procedures is very low.
  • What is the best age to spay or neuter my pet?
    It’s always best to consult your veterinarian about when the most appropriate age to sterilise your pet is as this could vary between breeds, ages and individual health statuses, however, most veterinary practices will only sterilise your pet after they are 6 months old.
  • What are the costs involved?
    If your pet produces offspring, you are then responsible for the wellbeing of the wee ones. Sterilising your pet is a far more cost-effective solution than having to care for a litter of pups or kittens. Many animal welfare organisations and shelters offer free sterilisations to make the procedure more accessible for pet parents to do the right thing.
  • Pre-Surgery Tips
    Your vet will give you the necessary information required regarding preparing your pet for surgery. They will probably insist that your pet fasts the night before undergoing anesthesia, but instructions may differ for younger pups and kittens, so ensure you are given accurate instructions pertaining to your pet’s individual set of circumstances.
  • Post-Surgery Recovery Tips
    • It is best to keep your pet indoors overnight, in a peaceful place away from noise or other pets until the anesthetic has fully worn off. Pets that have not fully recovered and are left to roam may not be as quick to react in a dangerous situation and may come to harm.
    • Ensure your pet doesn’t jump and run for approximately 10 days after the operation, or for as long as your physician suggests.
    • Ensure the incision remains free from infection by preventing your pet from licking it. This can be done by offering them treat distractions or using an Elizabethan collar.
    • Don’t bath your furry pal for at least 10 days after the operation.
    • Conduct daily inspections of the incision to ensure efficient healing.

Consult with your vet if you notice any of the following:

  • The incision is red, swollen, open or producing any discharge
  • If your pet is unusually lethargic, has a reduced appetite, is vomiting or has diarrhea.

Cities and countries worldwide are aggressively addressing the animal overpopulation crisis and areas that are efficient in doing so have reported drastic reductions in the numbers of animals being taken in to animal shelters and euthanised. It all starts with you and your community, so spread the word about pet sterilisation. Together we can overcome this crisis and in so doing, contribute to the happiness and wellbeing of the precious animals with which we share this beautiful planet.

Written for inFURmation
by Taliah Williamson

Beware online pet sale scams

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According to information provided by the SPCA, scams regarding the sale of pets and domestic animals have become increasingly common with unsuspecting victims having their money stolen by unscrupulous people who prey on kind-hearted animal lovers.

Online trade via the Internet is common place these days with anything from clothes to antiques being bought and sold. According to the SPCA, the Internet is, however, not the place you should go to buy a new pet.

The National Council of SPCA’s stated on their website that the general modus operandi of such scammers follow the story below:

“A woman from South Africa has moved to the Cameroon to do work on an AIDS project. She has taken her monkey/parrot/dog/cat/tiger cub/lion cub with her and is now looking for a good home for her pet back in South Africa since she does not have time to provide proper care.

“The animal is offered ‘free to a good home’. After the unsuspecting ‘victim’ has been reeled in, fake travel confirmation from an airline is forwarded with a request for money to pay a refundable deposit to hire a ventilated electronic crate, as requested by the airline.

“The con-artist states that she has spent all her money on the flight charges and is unable to pay anything further. She appeals to the good Samaritan to please help. Needless to say, once the money has been received, the woman disappears and the awaited animal (who did not exist) never arrives.”

In the event that you fall prey to such a scam, report the matter to the SAPS immediately and open a case of extortion.

Beware “Free to Good Home”

Although the Internet has become an avenue for people to advertise “free to good home” pets when they move to a smaller property or emigrate this does not always mean the best for the animal involved.

“We caution that not everyone has your animal’s best interest at heart. Your good intentions may not hold positive results for your family pet.”

According to the National Council of SPCAs breeders and security companies have not been slow to recognise these openings and are quick to acquire “suitable” animals for their trade in this manner.

Be an animal warrior: rescue a pet

The best way to protect yourself and slow down the growth of the puppy/kitten mill trade is to source only from SPCAs and other welfare organisations.

Individuals adopting from an SPCA will typically receive accurate information and they will be questioned about their ability to care for the pet they wish to offer a home to.

Pre and post home checks take place and a legally binding agreement is signed by both parties.

The officially adopted Statement of Policy of the SPCA movement is to “discourage the keeping of domestic animals by those who do not have the facilities, time, financial means or level of interest necessary to ensure a satisfactory standard of care and husbandry for their pets” – domestic animals deserve to be loved, cared for, taken to the vet when necessary, played with, taken for walks and so on.

SPCAs are careful to ensure that these qualities are available in all prospective homes.

Alternately buy your pets from bona fide breeders registered with the relevant organisations if a specific breed is required.

Source: lowvelder

Tips For Feeding Kittens

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Feeding for kittens

In the wild, big cats know exactly what they need to eat. By feeding your kitten the right food at the right times, you’ll be supporting their natural instincts as a carnivore and solitary hunter.

Special kitten food
For the first four to five weeks of their lives, your kittens will get all they need from their mother. They are normally weaned-off by seven weeks, but from week four they can already begin eating specially prepared kitten food such as Whiskas Kitten Meat in gravy or jelly. 

Small tummy, big appetite
Those cute little kitties might be small, but they will grow 15 times faster than a human baby! With stomachs that start out as the size of your thumbnail, they can’t eat very much in one go. That’s why it’s important to feed kitten’s small meals at regular intervals, up to six times a day to begin with. In the early days, try spreading the food onto a plate so your kitten can just lick and get a taste for it.

Kitten to cat portions
Whiskas Kitten Pouches are perfect for a single tasty meal for kittens between two and 12 months. They should be fed three to four meals a day until they are six months old. Following this, they can be fed between two and four meals a day. Kittens can eat Whiskas Adult Pouches twice a day when they are between 10 and 12 months old.

Careful eaters
In the wild, big cats are careful eaters, avoiding anything that tastes “off”. Kittens share those instincts and will prefer every meal to be fresh, served at room temperature and in  clean bowls.

Not on the menu
After kittens are weaned, they lose their ability to digest milk – so no cow’s milk for them! Many human foods can be harmful to cats, for example, onions can cause anaemia. So, don’t be tempted to give her table scraps and human treats. If you feed your cats the right food at the right times, they’ll be getting all the nutrition they need.

Sensitive to taste
Kittens’ tongues are highly sensitive to both temperature and taste. Just like their big cat cousins, they’ll protect themselves by avoiding stagnant water or anything that doesn’t taste fresh. That’s why kittens may prefer to drink from a puddle in the garden – they can taste the harmful chemicals we use to keep tap water clean.

Litter tray
In the wild, big cats are careful about keeping clean. That’s why they don’t eat and go to the toilet in the same place. Kittens are no different, so make sure you keep the litter tray well away from the places where they eat and drink.

A long and healthy life
A shiny coat, bright eyes and supple muscle tone are all good signs your kittens are nutritionally healthy. If you feed them a balanced diet that’s right for every stage of their lives, you’ll soon see it reflected in their appearance.

As your little feline friends approach their first birthdays, they’ll be ready to move on to eating a balanced adult diet that is suitable for their growing needs. Your kittens are highly sensitive to changes in taste and temperature, as well as any change in diet, so make sure you gently ease them into their new diet.

To find out more about Whiskas product availability that is best for the newest edition to your family, visit us on the Whiskas Website or Facebook page.

Feeding for kittens

Source: WHISKAS®

Other posts by WHISKAS®

What If My Cat Doesn’t Want To Eat?

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WHat if my cat doesnt want to eat?

How you can encourage a reluctant eater.
Last week we looked at some tips for when your cat is reluctant to drink and today we will look at some tips for reluctant eaters.  Cats’ ancestral diet was moisture-rich prey which helps meet their fluid requirements, so feeding your cat dry food only, which is <10% water, can create a problem.  It can cause chronic dehydration, leading to constipation and kidney stress, which is why vets recommend feeding cats moisture-rich diets. One of the first signs that a feline family member is sick is a lack of appetite. Cats can’t go without food for very long due to the risk of hepatic lipidosis, so it’s important to address the problem quickly.

TWO MAIN REASONS WHY YOUR CAT MIGHT NOT BE EATING.

  1. STRESS

Cats who are stressed can lose their appetite. Has something in your cat’s life changed?

  • New family members (human or animal)?
  • Have you moved?
  • Sometimes it can be too few resources or the placement thereof. We suggest a water and food bowl for each cat plus an extra one, as well as with the litter box and neither the bowls or the litter box should be placed close to the other.

This is a situation pet parents can often resolve without consulting a veterinarian.

2. UNDERLYING ILLNESS

Several underlying diseases can cause kitties to lose interest in eating and it’s important to contact your veterinarian right away if you suspect your cat is ill. Remember not all vets are good with cats, so find one with a special interests in cats.

TIPS TO TEMPT KITTY’S TASTEBUDS (Dr. Karen Becker & The Cat Nurse)
There are things you can do to try to entice your cat to eat; however, veterinary intervention is necessary if, despite your best efforts, your cat isn’t eating. Helping a cat who is refusing to eat stay nourished is an exercise in creativity, gentle prodding, and patience.

  • Warm her meals to bring out the aroma as cats respond to the smell of food before the taste.
  • Lure her with species-appropriate “people food” she has enjoyed in the past, for example, warm baked chicken or salmon.
  • Offer her canned food with a strong smell or a sardine (packed in water).
  • Buy a small selection of different flavours and textures of canned cat food or use home-cooked meat or bone broth and see if one catches her interest.
  • If she’s hooked on kibble and refuses everything else, try adding warm water to the food or an aromatic enticement like tuna juice or chicken broth.
  • Double bowls tend to be small, quite deep and are of course joined together, which could risk aggravating your cat’s sensitive whiskers. Try using a large flat bowl that gives plenty of room for your cat’s whiskers. Offer new food from a paper plate (in case she associates a bad memory with her food bowl). Whisker fatigue plays a role if the bowl is too small or deep.
  • If you are changing your cat’s food bowl, offer food in the old bowl and original location as well as using the new bowl and in a slightly different location. This allows your cat to have a choice. You can then remove the old bowl once your cat starts using the new one.
  • Raised bowls can help encourage some cats to eat. This means that your cat doesn’t have to dip its head down into the bowl to eat or drink, meaning he/she can still keep watch for any threats. Consider raising the bowl, especially if your cat is elderly and/or has arthritis as it may be more comfortable for your cat to eat that way (less pressure on its joints and less flexion of the neck). 
  • Consider offering food in ceramic or glass bowls. Plastic holds odours and metal is reflective.
  • Keep the food and water stations separate. Being survivalists, cats like to eat in one place and drink in another. Cats living in the wild do this to prevent food (blood and tissue from prey) from contaminating their water (a sick cat is a vulnerable cat) and because it helps to keep the location of their food (and them) a secret.

STILL NOT EATING?
If despite your best efforts you can’t get sufficient calories into your cat, call your veterinarian, who may prescribe an appetite stimulant, a homeopathic remedy, or a vitamin B12 injection.

5 TIPS FOR STRESS-FREE FELINE DINING IN GENERAL (Dr. Karen Becker)

  • Offer food in a variety of ways that gives your cat more control over her environment. When possible, feed smaller, frequent meals throughout the day, instead of two larger meals. Use food puzzles, hunting feeders, or other novel methods that encourage her to actively look for food and burn calories in the process.
  • In a multi-cat household, feed everyone separately. Establish multiple feeding locations that provide solitary access to food. Food puzzles, hunting feeders and regular bowls/saucers containing small amounts of food can be placed in different spots around the house to help satisfy the natural feline desire to dine in different locations. It also encourages cats to spend time hunting for food and allows them to be in control of their food intake.
  • If feasible, feed your kitty from an elevated location, since cats tend to feel safer in high spots where they can see what’s going on around them. These platforms should only be large enough for one cat. Do not put their bowls in a corner as they feel safer when they can view the area for threats, as in nature.
  • Try to place your cat’s food in areas with minimal human activity and away from loud noises and visual threats like a window where your kitty might catch a glimpse of another cat outside.
  • Put food in locations that encourage climbing and set aside time to play with your cat each day, which will provide him with both physical and mental stimulation.

CHECK THE POOP
It sounds weird to some, but it is important to regularly check their poop as it can indicate health concerns. Watch this video about it. Urine is discussed with drinking in last weeks’ article.

Keep your cat healthy and fed by following these tips.   Next week we will look at post-operative care for your pet.

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin
Website: www.thebulletin.co.za

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Fun and Healthy Playtime Tips for Kittens

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Playing with your cat or kitten is such a fun way to bond with them, and it’s beneficial to their health and development as well. Playtime keeps them physically and mentally active, and ensures they get enough exercise.

Cats are naturally curious and intelligent, and they thrive when we provide them with the proper physical and mental stimulation. It’s especially important to help them engage in their natural predatory behaviours, like hunting and stalking.

Toys and games
Try to provide a variety of toys that mimic the prey cats would naturally hunt. Toy mice and birds are ideal, especially if you can simulate movement. Cats have a strong instinctive desire to stalk and catch prey, so you’ll find you have the most success if you can mimic the actions of something they’re likely to hunt.

Encourage your cat to chase and capture the toys, to satisfy their natural hunting instinct. For example, dangle a small toy mouse, ball or feather at the end of a wand or string, and allow your cat to stalk and chase it for several minutes before pouncing and catching it.

If you’re using a laser pointer rather than a physical toy, give your cat a small treat when they “capture” it, to create a feeling of reward and prevent frustration.

Have a few different toys available and rotate them regularly, so your cat stays engaged and doesn’t become bored.

Cats don’t need expensive toys from a pet shop; if you’re on a budget, there are plenty of fun DIY toys you can make with household objects. Cardboard rolls, boxes, plastic bottles or even crumpled pieces of paper are all great for keeping active kitties entertained.

Solo play
If you have an indoor cat, or a cat that might be home alone for long periods while you’re at work, it’s important to give them a variety of opportunities for solo play. This includes safe toys and enrichment items like cat trees, perches, scratching posts or activity centres.

Toys that make noises with bells or “squeakers” are also good options for cats spending time alone, as the sound acts as an extra stimulus during solo play.

Safety tips

  • Be aware of potential safety hazards when playing with your cat.
  • Avoid using plain pieces of string, yarn, elastic bands, ribbon or streamers when playing with your cat. They can easily be swallowed and cause intestinal problems.
  • Never leave your cat unsupervised around hazardous items like string, yarn or plastic bags.
  • Avoid toys with small loose pieces (like “googly eyes”), or pack them away safely after playtime. Don’t use these toys as solo play options.
  • Don’t use your hands or feet as “toys” during playtime. This will encourage a kitten or cat to bite and scratch, thinking it’s an appropriate form of play. You want your cat to associate your hands with petting and feeding, not hunting and biting!

How often should you play with your cat?
How often you play with your kitten or cat will depend on their age, activity level and personal preferences – some cats enjoy playtime more than others. Ideally, you should enjoy two play sessions a day with your cat, of around 15 to 20 minutes each. Most cats prefer short bursts of activity, with naps in between.

If your cat doesn’t feel like playing at first, don’t get discouraged. And if your cat decides to walk away, don’t try to force an interaction. Try different things to engage your cat’s attention and curiosity over time, and you’ll soon start to learn how and when your furry friend prefers to play.

Source: Hills

Website: www.hillspet.co.za

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How to Care for Cat Paw Pads

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How to Care for Cat Paw Pads

Your cat’s paws are as important to them as your hands and feet are to you. As a cat parent, it’s important to help your cat maintain healthy paws. This quick guide to cat paw care will help you keep your furry friend’s paw pads healthy and clean.

Why Care for Cat Paw Pads?

How to Care for Cat Paw Pads

Think for a moment about how cats use their paws. They walk across a variety of surfaces in your house, including dirty surfaces such as the litter box. If they’re allowed outside, they may walk across rough and rocky ground, step on thorns and other sharp items, and tread across hot or cold surfaces, depending on the weather. Cats allowed outdoors in the winter are also susceptible to walking through harsh salts and other de-icing agents that can be harmful to paws.

At some point in the day, your cat will take it upon themselves to clean their own paws by licking them, possibly ingesting any harmful substances their little paws may have picked up in the process. Regular cat paw care that includes inspections and cleaning will not only help keep your cat’s paws clean and safe for licking, but also allow you to manage dry and cracked paws, cuts and other injuries before they can become infected.

Cat Paw Care Guide
Getting Started
While inspecting your cat’s paws on a regular basis will be good for ensuring you keep them healthy, you can also look for signs that something may be going on with the paws. If you notice your cat is limping or not putting pressure on a certain paw, they might have something stuck in it or could have injured their paw in some manner. Keep in mind that cats are good at hiding their pain, so you may have to pay close attention. Additionally, when a cat is injured they might be less receptive to you inspecting them, so do your best to keep them comfortable and calm while you inspect them.

If your cat isn’t used to having their paws handled, you may need to get them accustomed to the idea. It can be helpful to get into the habit of massaging your cat’s paws when you hold or pet them, from an early age onwards. This will not only help them become accustomed to having their paws touched and handled, but will also help you detect any debris that might be caught between the toes and paw pads.

Paw Inspection
Once your cat tolerates you handling their paws, make it a point to examine them daily, especially after they return from an outdoor journey. Look for scratches, sores, and foreign objects. If you find something embedded in your cat’s paw, try using a pair of tweezers to gently remove it. If it’s deeply embedded, call your veterinarian.

Paw Cleaning
Either before or after your inspection, use a soft cloth to wipe all those tiny cat paw pads, as well as around the pads and between the toes. This will clear their toes of dirt, litter dust and any chemicals or foreign objects.

 

Nail Trimming

How to Care for Cat Paw Pads

Use a pair of nail scissors or clippers to trim your cat’s claws. The PDSA recommends using a set of scissors or clippers specifically designed for cat claws, as human nail clippers can cause your cat’s nails to split.

Be sure to trim just the tips, taking care to avoid the quick (the part of the nail containing sensitive nerves and veins). If you do accidentally cut into the quick, use some styptic powder to stop the bleeding. If you don’t have any styptic powder on hand, it may be a good idea to buy some at your local pet supply store just in case you need it.

Treating Dry Cat Paw Pads
If your cat’s paw pads become dry, irritated or cracked, contact your vet; they may recommend that you try moisturising them with olive, coconut or another food-quality oil that will be safe for them to lick. You may want to confine them to a bathroom while the oil absorbs to keep them from tracking it through the house. If they need something more heavy-duty, ask your vet to recommend a good paw moisturiser for cats. Avoid lotions made for humans or other animals, which may be harmful if ingested.

Additional Considerations
Of course, one of the best things you can do for your cat’s paws is to keep them indoors, where they’ll be less likely to become injured or encounter extremely hot or cold surfaces or dangerous chemicals. Dry winter air can dry out your cat’s paws, so consider using a humidifier during cold months. A scratching post can also help keep their nails in good condition, not to mention keeping your carpet and furniture safe from the urge to claw.

With everything involved in caring for cats, it’s easy to overlook proper cat paw care. Making a daily habit of checking and cleaning their paws will make it easy to keep them in good shape.

Source: Hills

Website: www.hillspet.co.za

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Responsible pet parents spay and neuter their pets.

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RESPONSIBLE PET PARENTS SPAY AND NEUTER THEIR PETS

Spaying and neutering have many benefits, including health, behaviour & community benefits.

There are two big reasons why you should spay and neuter your pets.  We have a massive pet overpopulation crisis worldwide, with not nearly enough homes, never mind good homes.  This means that millions of healthy animals are being euthanized (killed humanely) annually. Another reason is it is good for their health!

THE PET OVERPOPULATION CRISIS

You need to understand the magnitude of this overpopulation crisis and then, hopefully, you will understand why many of us advocate so hard for it.

  • One female cat and her offspring can exponentially produce 370 000 cats in just seven years.
  • One female dog and her offspring can exponentially produce 67 000 dogs in six years.
  • Only 1 out of every 10 dogs born, find a home.
  • According to Rescue Rehab SA, approximately 1 million dogs and cats are euthanized in South Africa every year, that is 2740 a day!
  • According to the Humane Society of the USA, a cat or dog is euthanized at shelters every 10s.
  • A report by Mars Petcare showed 224 million animals are homeless in the USA, UK, SA, Mexico, Greece, Russia, China, India & Germany and about 30% of animals in SA are homeless.
  • At least one in four pets brought to shelters are purebred and this number is climbing.

Although we promote adoption, we can’t adopt our way out of this problem, so we need to fix (pardon the pun) it. We have heard all the bad excuses, debunked the myths and I educate about it daily on the SPAY & NEUTER SA page.

One of the worst excuses I have heard is that preventing pets from having litters is unnatural and that if God thought it was a problem he would make them sterile.  The fact is that we have already interfered with nature by domesticating dogs, cats and other animals. We domesticated the dog 15 000 years ago and the cat 8 000 years ago. In doing so, we helped create this problem. Now it’s our responsibility to solve it. It’s also unnatural to be killing so many of them in our pounds and shelters each year. You can’t blame the shelters, but you should blame breeders and dealers of any kind.

 

IT IS GOOD FOR THEIR HEALTH

When you spay and neuter your pets it can lead to longer and happier lives.  There are many benefits of spay and neuter for their health which include a lower risk for certain diseases like cancers and pyometra. It certainly eliminates the stress associated with pregnancy.  It improves behaviour, especially when dealing with females in heat and males marking or spraying and wandering out of the yard in search of these females which they can smell from far away. 

RESPONSIBLE PET PARENTS SPAY AND NEUTER THEIR PETS.3

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT SPAYING & NEUTERING
WHAT DOES SPAY & NEUTER MEAN?

It’s important to recognize the difference between sterilization and desexing (traditional spay and neuter). Whereas the former procedure eliminates a dog’s ability to procreate, desexing sterilizes but also eliminates the dog’s ability to produce sex hormones for the remainder of their life.

Vetcare.com defines it as follows:

The word “spay” refers to the sterilization of female pets. During the ovariohysterectomy, or the typical “spay”, the ovaries, fallopian tubes and uterus are removed from a female dog or cat.

The term “neuter” refers to the castration of male pets.  During orchiectomy, or the typical “neuter”, the testes are removed from a male dog or cat.

Both the spay and neuter procedure makes them unable to reproduce and reduces or eliminates breeding-related behaviours. In females it eliminates her heat cycle.

WHAT AGE SHOULD I SPAY/NEUTER MY PET?

An experienced vet can spay and neuter at an age as young as 6-8 weeks old, however, the risks involved with anesthesia may be slightly greater at this age.  Older females that are not spayed are at risk too. There is generally no other age limit for the procedure as long as your pet is healthy.

We support spay and neuter at around 6 months of age. We have done so with our pets who all reach ripe old ages and are rarely sick.

SHOULD I LET MY PET HAVE BABIES BEFORE I SPAY THEM?

Most veterinarians and the most recent research recommends that animals are spayed before their first heat cycle (before the age of 7 months or so). This drastically reduces the risk of mammary tumors later in life, prevents uterine infections and unwanted pregnancy. Pregnancy can put unnecessary stress on your pet’s body.

MY PET JUST GAVE BIRTH, HOW LONG SHOULD I WAIT TO SPAY?

Please prevent this, but if it did happen, the suggested time for animals that have recently given birth is about 2 weeks after the young have been weaned and the mother’s milk has dried up.

WHAT ARE SIGNS THAT MY CAT/DOG IS IN HEAT? (Vetcare.com)

Dogs have outward signs of being in heat. The vulva swells, and there is bleeding present for 1-1 ½ weeks. Just after the bleeding stops, most dogs will be receptive to mating for 1-2 weeks. Most dogs will go into heat twice a year, in the spring and fall.  Some dogs may skip the fall cycle.

Cats go into heat for the first time typically when they are 5-7 months old. A cat will be in heat (receptive to mating and able to become pregnant) for up to two weeks and then go out of heat. If she has not been mated, two weeks later, she will go back into heat again. This cycling in and out of heat will continue for several months.

Cats can have their first heat cylce at around 4 months of age.

WHAT ARE THE RISKS?

Even though spay and neuter are major surgical procedures, they are some of the most common procedures done by vets.  As with any surgery, there are risks associated with anesthesia and potential surgical complications. The overall occurrence of these risks is very rare.

WILL MY PET GAIN WEIGHT?

Probably not. Just like people, pets become overweight when they eat too much or exercise too little. Choosing a diet that is species-appropriate and suited to the health and lifestyle of your pet is important to prevent weight gain.

WILL THEIR BEHAVIOUR CHANGE AFTER THE SURGERY?

The spay and neuter will most likely not alter your pet’s basic personality which is mainly determined by the breed and a few other factors. It can result in some behavioural changes, but usually for the better! 

WILL MY MALE CAT STOP SPRAYING IF I GET HIM NEUTERED?

Spraying is common in unneutered male cats. They want to mark their territory and it would be best to neuter your cat before they develop this behaviour. Males may still engage in full-testosterone male behaviors while their male sex hormone levels diminish after surgery. This can take 6-8 weeks. Remember that male rabbits can still be fertile for a few weeks after neutering, as there may be sperm left in the reproductive tract!

DOES SPAYING & NEUTERING HURT?

During a spay or neuter surgery, the animal is fully anesthetized, so they feel no pain. Afterward, some animals seem to experience some discomfort temporarily, but with pain medication, discomfort may not be experienced at all.

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO HEAL?

According to vetcare.com, most spay and neuter skin incisions are fully healed within about 10–14 days, which coincides with the time that stitches or staples, if any, will need to be removed.

WHICH VET TO CHOOSE?

Even though this procedure is a common procedure for vets, not all vets are good at it, so do your homework on the vet! Cats & dogs are common patients, but please use an exotic qualified vet for other animals!

SHOULD ALL ANIMALS BE SPAYED & NEUTERED?

The massive overpopulation crisis includes more than just cats and dogs, so the answer is mostly yes.  There might be exceptions due to safety or medical reasons and those animals need highly responsible owners to prevent litters. Spaying or neutering a bird is not a routine surgery like it is with many mammals and can be riskier. There are many other ways to prevent your birds from reproducing offspring. Removing eggs of egg-laying animals (the right way) is another method.

CAN YOU SPAY A FEMALE IN HEAT?

Although possible, most vets will probably advise against it due to more swelling and a higher risk of bleeding. This surgery may take longer and be more expensive.

CAN’T WE JUST SPAY THE FEMALES AS THEY HAVE THE LITTERS?

No darling, it takes two to tango if you missed biology class.  The female can only have so many puppies/kittens at once, but the male can impregnate many females around the same time.

IF I KEEP THEM SAFE IN MY YARD, DO I STILL NEED TO SPAY & NEUTER THEM?

Yes, for sure!  Do you know that guy called Murphy?  Animals get in and out of yards and saying it was an unexpected litter doesn’t fly.  If your pet is not spayed or neutered, you can totally expect it.

ARE THERE SPECIFIC PRECAUTIONS TO TAKE AFTER THE PROCEDURE?

Apart from the usual veterinary advice like keeping your pet still and keeping the wound clean, you also need to phone your vet the moment you think something is not right and keep the freshly-neutered males away from non-spayed females for some time.

When it comes to male neuters for various species, after the testicles are removed, it takes time for all of the residual sperm to clear out of the pipes. Ask your vet how long, but some sources suggest days to weeks. During this time, a freshly-neutered male can still impregnate females.

IS THE PROCEDURE EXPENSIVE?

It probably depends on what you spend money on and whether your pet’s health is a priority to you. The cost of spaying or neutering depends on the sex, size, and age of the pet, your veterinarian’s fees, and a few other factors. Remember that spay or neuter surgery is a one-time cost and the cost far outweighs the cost of health-related issues due to not sterilizing or even for raising litters. There are many opportunities to do this at more affordable rates and adoption fees include it!

n general, spaying tends to be more expensive than neutering. Spaying involves opening your dog or cat’s stomach to access the animal’s reproductive organs where neutering is less complex.

The cost may vary from town to town, but according to Pawpawpets.com, the average cost of a spay in South Africa is around R1350 for a female cat and around R1800 to a crazy R4000 for a female dog. Neuters can cost around R750-R1000 for a male cat and around R1200 – R2500 for a male dog.

THE BIGGEST CRITICISM OF EARLY SPAY & NEUTER
There are always two sides to a coin and it is important to look at both.

Some research shows that in desexing spays and neuters – surgical procedures that remove the gonads and associated sex hormones – can have a long-term negative impact on their health.

The research mostly suggest this more in large dog breeds. The advice then is to have them spayed or neutered after they turned one year old, but again then they need a highly responsible owner. You must also remember that the relationship between sex hormones, health and wellness is more complex and can be influenced by many aspects like sex, breed, age, environment and more.

I have not yet seen these negative effects and I think there is more research needed on this as single case studies are not enough. With this massive overpopulation crisis worldwide, the benefits far outweigh the risk for me.

If this does occur, it seems that hormone restoration therapy may be beneficial to symptomatic spayed and neutered dogs.

What are alternatives then? 

When a pet is left intact, it requires a highly responsible pet guardian who is fully committed to and capable of preventing mating and litters.

Another option is sterilizing so the testes or ovaries can continue to produce hormones. This can be accomplished through vasectomy and hysterectomy. According to Dr. Karen Becker, traditional spaying and neutering are basically the only techniques vets are currently taught and we need to change that.

Changing the fate of animals and the massive overpopulation crisis resolves around three principles namely sterilization, education, stricter and enforced laws for those who don’t respond to being asked nicely.  No breeding can be “responsible” when we have a massive overpopulation crisis and when you support breeders, you are part of the problem.

BE PART OF THE SOLUTION AND JOIN THE SPAY & NEUTER REVOLUTION

  • Spay & neuter your pets.
  • Share, educate & advocate for it.
  • Donate to spay & neuter campaigns.
  • Support petitions on the topic.
  • Don’t support animal dealers, breeders, or pet shops that fuel the overpopulation crisis.
  • Adopt from reputable organizations.

Can you see now why reputable animal welfare organizations are all up-in-your-business about spay and neuter?

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin
Website: www.thebulletin.co.za

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Cat Jumping? How to Keep Her Paws on the Ground

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In a cat’s world, nothing is off limits: the inside of boxes, underneath a bed, on top of your keyboard. It’s all fair game to a cat that wants to play, rest, hide, or is just plain curious.

That cat privilege extends—in their mind—to perches on the top of your counters, the upper reaches of a bookshelf, and even the top of the refrigerator. After all, cat jumping skills are top-notch. Cats can easily exceed altitudes six times their height. A study in the Journal of Experimental Biology reports that cats are superior jumpers because of the limb length and muscle mass of theCatasir back legs. Cats start a jump in a very deep crouch, then lift their front legs before “an explosive extension” of their back legs.

While there is no argument that a cat’s jumping ability is impressive, it can also be annoying (and dangerous, as Vetstreet notes cats don’t always land on their feet) to have cats regularly leaping to spots in your home that are high above their heads.

How can pet parents keep cats off furniture, shelves, counters, and anywhere else in the home where they don’t belong?

Clean off Shelves

Cats are naturally curious. A pen, a set of keys, or a fragile knick-knack can catch their attention and tempt them to jump up to explore this “toy” that has been left for them to find. By keeping shelves clear of clutter, you can also lessen your cat’s interest in exploring places you don’t want them to go. This can also be beneficial to you as cats are known for knocking things off shelves, and unfortunately they aren’t good at handling a broom and dustpan to clean up the mess after themselves.

Cat Jumping

Keep Food off Kitchen Counters

A cat’s sense of smell is much better than yours, so if they smell something tasty, they are likely to jump up to try to sneak a nibble. That can be dangerous for them, depending on what the food is. By keeping counters clear of food and crumbs, you’ll discourage your kitty from leaping onto your kitchen counters. If you find that your cat is intensely curious about what you’re making for dinner—and won’t stay off the counters while you’re preparing it—simply shut your cat in another room until the kitchen is clean.

Shut the Blinds

Cats like to jump to window sills to take in the outdoor view. If there’s a windowsill that you don’t want your cat to use, simply shut the blinds to take away the kitty TV. But make sure you give your cat at least one spot to look outside, as cats enjoy watching the world go by.

Give Them an Alternative

A cat jumping condo gives your furry friend a place to jump, exercise, and explore. Keep it interesting for them by rotating the toys, boxes to hide in and even crumpled pieces of paper to bat around. Be imaginative! Cat trees are also an excellent way to let your cats jump and climb to their hearts desire. It’s important to note that you shouldn’t completely eliminate your cat’s ability to jump. It’s part of their innate behaviour built into their DNA from their ancestors, where they would climb trees to escape predators as well as stalk their prey from high above before pouncing. Providing an approved place for exercise and jumping will also help keep your cat off of other high areas where they might not be welcomed.

Use Double-Sided Tape

Cats hate the feel of double-sided tape on their paws, so it can be a good deterrent for a cat who continues to jump to a place you don’t want them to go. If it’s a spot you use frequently, attach the double-sided tape to a place mat so it’s easily movable.

Understand Their Jumping Behaviour

It’s true that jumping is coded in your cat’s DNA. They are hardwired to enjoy being up high where they are safe, but it is also good as the parent to understand the need to be hidden away from everyone. If you notice your cat jumping up high more frequently or shying back in hard to reach areas like cabinets or the top of a closet it might be because they are stressed or not feeling their best. Because of their ancestral lineage, cats that are sick or injured will hide themselves away to keep out of reach of predators. They might also be trying to get away from some other sort of danger if they feel afraid. It’s helpful to understand what they might be fearful of to help remove it from the environment. Slowly, as your cat starts to feel safer, they will come back down to your level and interact more.

Cats are natural jumpers so you shouldn’t discourage the behaviour altogether. But with a little training, you can teach your cat where not to leap.

Source: Hills
Writer: Kara Murphy
Website: www.hillspet.co.za

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The tales the cat tail tells

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Your cat’s tail can tell you about what’s going on inside her head. Tails are good indicators of mood. Take a little time to observe your cat’s behavior and you’ll start to get a feel of the tales the tail tells.

 

Position: high.
When your cat holds her tail high in the air as she moves about her territory, she’s expressing confidence and contentment. A tail that sticks straight up signals happiness and a willingness to be friendly. And watch the tip of an erect tail. A little twitch can mean a particularly happy moment.

Position: curved like a question mark.
You might consider taking a break from your daily business to play with your cat if you notice a curve in her tail. This tail position often signals a playful mood and a cat that’s ready to share some fun with you.

Position: low.
Watch out. A tail positioned straight down can signal aggression. A lower tail is a very serious mood. However, be aware that certain breeds, such as Persians, tend to carry their tails low for no particular reason.

Position: tucked away.
A tail curved beneath the body signals fear or submission. Something is making your cat nervous.

Position: puffed up.
A tail resembling a pipe cleaner reflects a severely agitated and frightened cat trying to look bigger to ward off danger.

Position: whipping tail.
A tail that slaps back and forth rapidly indicates both fear and aggression. Consider it a warning to stay away.

Position: swishing tail.
A tail that sways slowly from side to side usually means your cat is focused on an object. You might see this tail position right before your cat pounces on a toy or a kibble of cat food that’s tumbled outside the food bowl.

Position: wrapped around another cat.
A tail wrapped around another cat is like you putting your arm around another person. It conveys friendship.

Source: Hills Pet
Website: www.hillspet.co.za

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Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)

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Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)

Feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) is one of the most common and consequential infectious diseases of cats around the world. In infected cats, FIV attacks the immune system, leaving the cat vulnerable to many other infections. Although cats infected with FIV may appear normal for years, they eventually suffer from immune deficiency, which allows normally harmless bacteria, viruses, protozoa, and fungi found in the everyday environment to potentially cause severe illnesses. Though there is no cure for FIV, recent studies suggest that cats with FIV commonly live average life spans, as long as they are not also infected with feline leukemia virus.

Risk and Transmission
The primary mode of transmission for FIV is through bite wounds from an infected cat. Casual, non-aggressive contact, such as sharing water bowls or mutual grooming, does not appear to be an efficient route of spreading the virus. As a result, cats in households with stable social structures where housemates do not fight are at little risk of acquiring FIV infections. Only on rare occasions, an infected mother cat may transmit the infection to her kittens. However, if the mother becomes infected with FIV during her pregnancy, the transmission risk to the kittens is increased. Sexual contact is not a significant means of spreading FIV among cats.

FIV-infected cats exist worldwide, but the prevalence of infection varies greatly. In North America, approximately 2.5-5% percent of healthy cats are infected with FIV. Rates are significantly higher (15 percent or more) in cats that are sick or at high risk of infection. Because FIV is transmitted through bite wounds, un-neutered male cats with outdoor access, especially those who are likely to fight with other cats, are at the greatest risk for FIV infection. There is currently no vaccine commercially available in North America to protect against FIV, so the best way to reduce risk is to limit contact with cats who may be infected with the disease by keeping cats indoors and testing all cats within the household.

Clinical Signs
There are three phases of infection with FIV – the acute phase, the asymptomatic (or latent) phase, and the progressive phase. 

The acute phase of infection generally occurs 1-3 months after infection. At this time, the virus is carried to lymph nodes, where it reproduces in white blood cells known as T-lymphocytes. The virus then spreads to other lymph nodes throughout the body, resulting in temporary lymph node enlargement that is often accompanied by fever, depression, and lack of appetite. This phase of infection may be very mild and is often missed by owners or attributed to other causes of fever.

Following the acute phase, cats will enter an asymptomatic phase, which may last for months to multiple years. During this time, the virus replicates very slowly within the cells of the immune system, and cats will not show any outward signs of illness. Infected cats may exhibit blood work abnormalities, such as low white blood cell levels or increased blood proteins. Some cats will remain in this stage and never progress to more severe disease.

As the virus continues to spread through the immune system, cats will enter a progressive immuno-compromised state during which secondary infections may occur. Most illness related to FIV is not from the virus itself, but from these secondary infections or problems with the immune system. Cats may develop chronic or recurrent infections of the skin, eyes, urinary tract, or upper respiratory tract. Inflammation of the gums and severe dental disease, known as gingivostomatitis, is common in cats infected with FIV, and they are significantly more likely to develop cancer and immune-mediated blood disorders than healthy cats. Weight loss, seizures, behavioral changes and neurological disorders are all possible. The severity of these illnesses can vary greatly, but once cats become ill with multiple critical infections or cancers, survival time is usually no more than a few months. 

Diagnosis
It is important that the FIV status of all cats be determined when they are first acquired, if they become ill, and regularly if they have any risk of exposure.

When a cat is first infected with FIV, its immune system develops antibodies against the virus that persist in the blood for the rest of its life. To diagnose FIV, blood samples are examined for the presence of these antibodies. This can often be performed using a technique known as enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) right in the veterinarian’s office, though positive results may be confirmed using the western blot or immunofluorescence (IFA) assays at a reference laboratory.

Because these tests check for antibodies to the FIV virus rather than the virus itself, there are a few scenarios when a single test is not sufficient to determine if a cat is truly infected with FIV or not. 

A negative antibody test indicates that the cat has not produced antibodies against the FIV virus and, in the vast majority of cases, indicates that the cat is not infected. There are two scenarios in which negative results may occur in infected cats. It takes the body between 2 and 6 months to develop enough antibodies against FIV to be detected, so if a cat had been infected very recently, it may test negative for FIV even though it is truly infected. If exposure is possible, it is recommended that cats are retested after at least 60 days to get a more accurate result. On very rare occasions, cats in the later stages of FIV infection may test negative on FIV antibody tests because their immune systems are so compromised that they no longer produce detectable levels of antibody.

Because few, if any, cats ever eliminate infection, the presence of antibodies indicates that a cat is infected with FIV. Because false positives are possible, it is recommended that positive results in healthy cats are confirmed using a second technique mentioned above. There are two scenarios where a positive antibody test may not represent true infection. Infected mother cats transfer FIV antibodies to nursing kittens, so kittens born to infected mothers may receive positive test results for several months after birth. However, few of these kittens actually are or will become infected. To clarify their infection status, kittens younger than six months of age that test positive for FIV should be retested at 60-day intervals until they are at least six months old. If their antibody test remains positive after six months old, they almost certainly have a true infection. FIV vaccines also cause a vaccinated cat to produce antibodies against the FIV virus that can be difficult to distinguish from those produced by a cat in response to natural infection with FIV. Cats who have been vaccinated will test positive for FIV antibodies, so it is essential to know the vaccination history if possible. There has been no commercially available FIV vaccine available in North America since 2016, so it is becoming less likely that a positive result on an antibody test is due to a previous vaccination.  This vaccine is available in other countries, such as Australia, New Zealand, and Japan.

To circumvent some of these problems with testing, a polymerase chain reaction (PCR) test can be used to detect short segments of the virus’ genetic material. This tests for the presence of viral DNA itself rather than detecting antibodies against the virus. Because this method can produce relatively high numbers of false-positive and false-negative results, it is not the preferred method for screening tests but can be useful as a confirmation test in some instances.

Treatment and Management
Unfortunately, there is currently no definitive cure for FIV. However, it is important to realize that while it is impossible to predict the survival of a given cat infected with FIV, cats infected with FIV can live very normal, healthy lives for many years if managed appropriately. Once an FIV infected cat has experienced one or more severe illnesses as a result of infection, however, or if persistent fever and weight loss are present, the prognosis is generally less favorable.

For a healthy cat diagnosed with FIV, the most important management goals are to reduce their risk of acquiring secondary infections and prevent the spread of FIV to other cats. Both of these goals are best met by keeping cats indoors and isolated from other cats. Spaying and neutering will eliminate the risk of spreading FIV to kittens or through mating and will reduce the tendency of cats to roam and fight if they do get outside. They should be fed nutritionally complete and balanced diets, and uncooked food, such as raw meat and eggs, and unpasteurized dairy products should be avoided to minimize the risk of food-borne bacterial and parasitic infections.

Wellness visits for FIV-infected cats should be scheduled at least every six months. The veterinarian will perform a detailed physical examination of all body systems with special attention to the health of the gums, eyes, skin, and lymph nodes. Weight will be measured accurately and recorded, because weight loss is often the first sign of deterioration. A complete blood count, serum biochemical analysis, and a urine analysis should be performed annually.

Vigilance and close monitoring of the health and behavior of FIV-infected cats is even more important than it is for uninfected cats. 

Because most illness in FIV-infected cats is the result of secondary infections, it is very important that cats be promptly evaluated and treated when any signs of illness occur. These cats may require longer or more intense treatments and courses of antibiotics than cats without FIV. For routine procedures such as dental therapy or surgery, antibiotics may be recommended to help prevent secondary infections from taking hold. 

Treatment for the virus itself is limited and mostly use drugs developed for treatment of Human Immunodeficiency Virus. Zidovudine (AZT) treatment can help cats with severe dental inflammation (stomatitis) or neurologic disease, but has not been shown to prolong survival in FIV-infected cats and can have serious side effects. There is significant ongoing research investigating different combination antiviral therapies to treat FIV.

Prevention
The only sure way to protect cats is to prevent their exposure to the virus. Cat bites are the major means by which infection is transmitted, so keeping cats indoors, away from potentially infected cats that might bite them, markedly reduces their likelihood of contracting FIV infection. To reduce the chance of indoor cats becoming infected, it is ideal to assure that only infection-free cats are brought into a household occupied by uninfected cats. In some cases, separation of infected from non-infected cats is possible in a household, and this is ideal if infected cats must be brought into occupied by non-infected cats.

Unfortunately, many FIV-infected cats are not diagnosed until after they have lived for years with other cats. In such cases, all the other cats in the household should be tested. Ideally, all infected cats should be separated from the non-infected ones to eliminate the potential for FIV transmission. It is important to realize, however, that since FIV is transmitted primarily by bite wounds, transmission from an infected cat to an uninfected cat is much less likely in households that have stable social structures (i.e., households in which cats do not fight).

FIV will not survive for more than a few hours in most environments. However, FIV-infected cats are frequently infected with other infectious agents that may pose some threat to a newcomer. For these reasons, to minimize transmission of FIV and other infectious diseases to a cat that is brought into an environment in which an FIV-positive cat has lived, prudence dictates a thorough cleaning and disinfection or replacement of food and water dishes, bedding, litter pans, and toys. A dilute solution of household bleach (four ounces of bleach in 1 gallon of water) makes an excellent disinfectant. Vacuuming carpets and mopping floors with an appropriate cleanser are also recommended. Any new cats or kittens should be properly vaccinated against other infectious agents before entering the household.

Human health concerns
Although FIV is similar to human immunodeficiency virus (HIV) and causes a feline disease similar to acquired immune deficiency syndrome (AIDS) in humans, it is a highly species-specific virus that infects only felines. There is currently no evidence that FIV can infect or cause disease in humans.

Source: Cornell Feline Health Center

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