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Don’t let your pet outsmart you by getting out

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Escape-proof your yard and keep your pets safe.

Image from Petology

Image from Petology

There are constantly pets in the streets and this holds many dangers in a cruel world. If your pets are out-and-about, they might get injured, hit by a car, attacked by other animals or hurt other animals, get poisoned, get shot, get stolen to sell, breed or for dog fights. They may also become a nuisance to others, especially cats.

We understand that accidents happen and some animals are really escape artists, but one of a few reasons why animals get out is because IT IS EASY! You get climbers, runners, jumpers, diggers, chewers, some learn to open gates or some pets use a combination of the above. We have seen fox terriers climb trees to get out.  Sadly there are also irresponsible owners who think it is acceptable to let them roam the streets. 

Secure your yard, but also take these precautions:

  • Sterilise your pets which helps reduce roaming.
  • Meet their needs in terms of enrichment (mentally, physically etc).
  • Don’t leave them alone for too long or consider day-care.
  • Make your garden their happy place. (Sandpit, sensory garden etc.)
  • Micro-chip them and register the microchip on more than one database.
  • Add a collar ID with your number on it.
  • For cats a break-away collar with ID tag.
  • Have a recent photo ready.
  • Get a responsible pet sitter when you are away.
  • When the garden services come, keep your pets inside.
  • If possible, keep them in your backyard, away from the street or only in front yard with supervision.
  • If your maid or gardener has a key, have a stern talk about keeping the gate closed.
  • Always check your yard for foreign objects and poisons which may endanger your pets.
  • Keep them away from gates & fences and out of sight, to prevent theft.

Petology provides guidelines to equip you with plausible methods to secure your yard and The Paw Company on how to keep your cats in. This can be possible with little investment and effort.

JUMPERS & CLIMBERS

  • Have large fences and high walls that can’t be easily climbed (no easy foothold).
  • Choose solid panel fences without anywhere for your dog to stick his/her paws. This will also keep your dog a lot calmer, since they can’t see what’s on the other side.
  • Metal fence panels or palisades can work but you’ll need to make provisions to prevent them from digging under or slipping through.
  • Make sure there’s nothing near the wall/ fence that your dog can use to give themselves a boost, like planters, benches, birdbaths, garbage bins etc.
  • Alternatively, you can add an extension to make the fence taller or you can install 45-degree angle lean-in section (overhang) onto the upper part of your fence/wall with brackets.  This tilts in to deter pets from getting over it.
  • Another alternative could be to add a roller bar (a.k.a Coyote rollers) made from PVC or Metal, which dogs’ paws can’t hold onto.  Both angled fences and roller bars work well for keeping cats in or out too.
petology - pet proof your yard

Image from Petology for JUMPERS

DIGGERS, CHEWERS & SLIP THROUGH-ERS

  • If you have palisades, you can add safe doggie bars which does not have a sharp edges.  You can also use durable welded wire mesh overlay and secure it with cable ties.  Not the plastic ones!
  • If they squeeze through or dig underneath your can buy or custom make metal dig-defence barriers with spikes, which goes deep into the ground.  If your fence is secure, but not your gate, consider a gate plate.
  • You can pour a concrete footer along the perimeter of the fence and bury/mount the bottom of the fence into the mixture.
  • Install an L-Footer/skirt/apron along the bottom of the fence, facing inwards.  You can use a wire mesh fence, hardware cloth or a piece of chain-link fence attached to the base of the fence.  Bury it so that it is not visible to the eye, or lay it on top of the grass and hold it down with pins/stakes, rocks, gravel, mulch or even planters.
  • Some people use “bumper collars” which prevents the pet from slipping though, but we do not support this method.
Petology - Pet proof your home

Image from Petology for DIGGERS, CHEWERS & SLIP THROUGH-ERS

RUNNERS

  • Runners are those that dash out the yard as soon as the gate opens. This means you will have to get creative to keep them in and it might require more planning and effort, but the effort can never outweigh the safety of your pet.
  • In this case you can consider getting in the help of a qualified behaviourist/trainer. Rewarding the good behaviour is important instead of punishment or fear-based training.  If you call them back and they come, give them a treat or lots of praise (not punishment)! Teach them to sit and wait, when the gate opens.
  • Try to limit their access to the driveway or main gate. You can install a double gate, which means you create an enclosed area in the yard. If someone wants to come in or out, they have to go through one gate, then the other gate.
  • You can use a temporary fence, portable playpen, enclosed area outside or a kennel/run to put them in when you know the main gate will be opened.
  • If your housing arrangement does not allow the above, then lure you pet into the house when you know the gate will open.
Petology - pet proof your home

Image from Petology for RUNNERS

KEEPING CATS IN

  • Higher walls (around 1.8m), without anything to jump on like a bench etc.
  • As mentioned above, roller bars and angled fences work well for cats too.
  • Use nets over your backyard.
  • Build a Catio.
  • Plant certain species of plants that cats dislike, but which are not poisonous to cats. Some cats seem to dislike the smell of rue, lavender, pennyroyal, coleus canina and lemon thyme. Some cats also seem to not like strong citrus scents.
  • Trim trees regularly and wrap them with plastic or pvc “dividers”, so they cannot climb high enough to get out.
  • If you really cannot apply any of the above, try creating a routine for your cat, for example, a lick of wet food in the morning to make sure they “check in” and again in the evening. Once they are in for the evening, close the doors/windows until the morning.
  • Create entertainment for your cats to keep them more indoors.
  • Invest in a good quality cat harness. Acclimatise your cat to the harness from a young age. With patience and persistence, an older cats will also get used to it.
The Paw Company

Image from The Paw Company

Remember to never punish your pet when they come back. This will not take away the desire to escape, but will make them afraid of returning home. Always find out why your pets try to get out and address the root cause. If it is a behavioural issue, contact a qualified behaviourist, not a trainer.

Where there is a will there is a way! Don’t let your pets outsmart you!

By: Ancois van Zyl

Cat Jumping? How to Keep Her Paws on the Ground

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In a cat’s world, nothing is off limits: the inside of boxes, underneath a bed, on top of your keyboard. It’s all fair game to a cat that wants to play, rest, hide, or is just plain curious.

That cat privilege extends—in their mind—to perches on the top of your counters, the upper reaches of a bookshelf, and even the top of the refrigerator. After all, cat jumping skills are top-notch. Cats can easily exceed altitudes six times their height. A study in the Journal of Experimental Biology reports that cats are superior jumpers because of the limb length and muscle mass of theCatasir back legs. Cats start a jump in a very deep crouch, then lift their front legs before “an explosive extension” of their back legs.

While there is no argument that a cat’s jumping ability is impressive, it can also be annoying (and dangerous, as Vetstreet notes cats don’t always land on their feet) to have cats regularly leaping to spots in your home that are high above their heads.

How can pet parents keep cats off furniture, shelves, counters, and anywhere else in the home where they don’t belong?

Clean off Shelves

Cats are naturally curious. A pen, a set of keys, or a fragile knick-knack can catch their attention and tempt them to jump up to explore this “toy” that has been left for them to find. By keeping shelves clear of clutter, you can also lessen your cat’s interest in exploring places you don’t want them to go. This can also be beneficial to you as cats are known for knocking things off shelves, and unfortunately they aren’t good at handling a broom and dustpan to clean up the mess after themselves.

Cat Jumping

Keep Food off Kitchen Counters

A cat’s sense of smell is much better than yours, so if they smell something tasty, they are likely to jump up to try to sneak a nibble. That can be dangerous for them, depending on what the food is. By keeping counters clear of food and crumbs, you’ll discourage your kitty from leaping onto your kitchen counters. If you find that your cat is intensely curious about what you’re making for dinner—and won’t stay off the counters while you’re preparing it—simply shut your cat in another room until the kitchen is clean.

Shut the Blinds

Cats like to jump to window sills to take in the outdoor view. If there’s a windowsill that you don’t want your cat to use, simply shut the blinds to take away the kitty TV. But make sure you give your cat at least one spot to look outside, as cats enjoy watching the world go by.

Give Them an Alternative

A cat jumping condo gives your furry friend a place to jump, exercise, and explore. Keep it interesting for them by rotating the toys, boxes to hide in and even crumpled pieces of paper to bat around. Be imaginative! Cat trees are also an excellent way to let your cats jump and climb to their hearts desire. It’s important to note that you shouldn’t completely eliminate your cat’s ability to jump. It’s part of their innate behaviour built into their DNA from their ancestors, where they would climb trees to escape predators as well as stalk their prey from high above before pouncing. Providing an approved place for exercise and jumping will also help keep your cat off of other high areas where they might not be welcomed.

Use Double-Sided Tape

Cats hate the feel of double-sided tape on their paws, so it can be a good deterrent for a cat who continues to jump to a place you don’t want them to go. If it’s a spot you use frequently, attach the double-sided tape to a place mat so it’s easily movable.

Understand Their Jumping Behaviour

It’s true that jumping is coded in your cat’s DNA. They are hardwired to enjoy being up high where they are safe, but it is also good as the parent to understand the need to be hidden away from everyone. If you notice your cat jumping up high more frequently or shying back in hard to reach areas like cabinets or the top of a closet it might be because they are stressed or not feeling their best. Because of their ancestral lineage, cats that are sick or injured will hide themselves away to keep out of reach of predators. They might also be trying to get away from some other sort of danger if they feel afraid. It’s helpful to understand what they might be fearful of to help remove it from the environment. Slowly, as your cat starts to feel safer, they will come back down to your level and interact more.

Cats are natural jumpers so you shouldn’t discourage the behaviour altogether. But with a little training, you can teach your cat where not to leap.

Source: Hills
Writer: Kara Murphy
Website: www.hillspet.co.za

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How to stop dogs from jumping up?

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dog

How to stop dogs from jumping up?

Jumping up enthusiastically is part of normal canine behaviour. It has its roots in puppy greeting behaviour which involves licking the muzzle of returning adults. For a weaned wolf puppy it is essential and normal to beg for food by jumping up and licking the adult’s mouth to stimulate it to regurgitate food. In adulthood and domestic dogs jumping up becomes a normal greeting and appeasement ritual. Dogs consider it a compliment – we consider it a nuisance, especially in adult dogs.

In all likelihood it is also a behaviour you have reinforced (rewarded) when your dog was still a puppy. Tail wagging, jumping puppies are just irresistible. How great must your dog’s confusion be when he grows up and suddenly you punish him for something that comes naturally to him and he was praised and cuddled for all along. He was never really taught not to jump on you, was he??

So, let’s teach Fluffy to stop jumping.

In a nutshell you have to make jumping up unrewarding and teach him an alternative way to greet you, which is rewarded.

While retraining your dog try to avoid the situations in which he normally jumps up. Use a leash or his collar to stop him from jumping on visitors and yourself. Alternatively ignore the jumping up and turn your back, don’t speak to him (no, not even to shout at him!!), don’t touch him. It is important that all family members stop to acknowledge the dog if he jumps.

Cool your greeting ritual. On returning home, walk past your dog, ignore him for a little while and then call him to greet him calmly. If he is not too hyper kneel down so he does not need to jump up.

Praise and greet only while all four paws are on the ground.

  • Teach an acceptable behaviour that is incompatible with jumping up like a sit or down stay (your choice).Get a nice treat, hold it in your hand but don’t give it to your dog. Don’t give any command; just patiently wait until your dog shows the behaviour you want. Praise and treat immediately.
  • Take a step away from your dog and repeat the process until Fluffy sits / downs reliably and immediately after each step you take. Don’t make your training sessions too long (5-10 min), rather practice a few times a day, as you can. Always stop on a high note and while your dog is still eager to work. Steadily increase the length of the sit before you give the treat.
  • Practice in different locations, especially close to the gate / doorways where your dog normally gets to greet you and your visitors. Slowly raise the stakes but only increase one criteria in each training session. So, if you decide to increase the time Fluffy needs to sit before he gets rewarded, do not change the location where you practice as well.Once your dog reliably sits or downs you can introduce a verbal cue or command.
  • When Fluffy’s sit stay has become fairly reliable it is time to practice with willing friends. Armed with treats ask them to ring the bell or come to the gate and only greet and reward Fluffy if all his paws are on the floor.
  • Teach your dog a “too bad” – a signal that informs him that he just lost a treat / his reward.  Once your dog understands this signal it can help you a lot to stop unwanted behaviours, as dogs learn quickly to abandon behaviour that does not pay.
  • Get your dog to sit. Hold a very tasty treat about 30 cm away from him on nose level. (His nose – not yours.) As soon as he moves towards the treat (and he will) simply say “Too bad!!” (or “No” or “AAH AAH” – or whatever word you want to use as your no reward signal) and snatch the treat away. Get him back into a sit and repeat. If your timing is good Fluffy will soon decide to change his strategy and offer another behaviour. If he stays and simply stares at the treat reward/ reinforce immediately.
  • Repeat the whole process several times to establish your “too bad” signal or practice sit-stays. To raise the stakes change your position, change the type of treat, put the treat on the floor (but make sure you can get to it first in case your dog makes a mistake) etc… Again, don’t make a training session too long and stop while Fluffy is still keen to go on.  Use these two steps consistently.  Praise and reward acceptable behaviour every time and inform your dog about his mistakes with your no reward signal as soon as he jumps up on you. In that case turn away and walk away and leave him for a minute or two.
  • Give your dog an appropriate outlet for all his energy.  Daily walks – off-leash if possible Play sessions with other friendly dogs.  Retrieve games.  Hide and seek.  Recall practice with 2-5 people.
  • Stand opposite each other or in a circle and take turns calling the dog. Reward enthusiastically when he comes to the right person.
    • Chase – Teach your dog that a certain cue e.g. “I am gonna catch you” will start the game of you chasing after him.
    • Tug-of-war – Played with rules tug-of-war is a great energy burner and good exercise for yourself and your dog. Please teach your dog the rules and stick to them.  The dog lets go of the tugging toy or rope immediately when told to.

dog

  • Give your command to let go and swop the toy with a nice treat.
  • Give your cue to retake the rope and start tugging again.
  • Practice these exchanges before your dog gets really excited with some slow-motion,calm tugging.
  • Once the dog releases the toy on command put the treats out of sight.
  • He only retakes the rope when invited to do so.
  • Get one specific toy for your tug-of-war and stick to that toy.
  • The game starts only with that toy and on your cue e.g. “Take the rope”.
  • Should Fluffy grab the toy uninvited, tell him “too bad” and interrupt the game for a short while before you start again.
  • Do not tolerate accidents
  • During the heat of the game dogs will sometimes make contact with your hand by mistake. Screech “OUCH!!!” and immediately stop the game. Fluffy is very capable of controlling his teeth and you can use this as a reminder to keep them off people at all times.
  • Other than that let Fluffy be as excited as he wants to. Let him tug, shake and growl to his heart’s content.
  • Tug-of-war makes a great reward during obedience exercises as well.

Should you encounter any problems or have any questions please contact:

  • Hermanus Animal Welfare Society : 028 312 1281
  • Janine (Trainer-Touch therapist-Puppy classes) – 082 490 1650
  • Naomi (animal communicator) – 083 226 3526

Source: Hermanus Animal Welfare