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Dogs Chasing Cars

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Dogs Chasing Cars

Many dogs, especially those of the herding breed love to give chase to fast moving objects, unfortunately this sometimes includes cars! I have seen dogs that appear to be lying in wait just waiting for a car to appear so that it can give chase. One would wonder what the dog would do if it caught the car? I once worked with a Bullie that used to chase cars around the owners yard and when the car slowed, the Bullie would actually attack the tyres. In fact, it had started trying to bite the tyres while the car was moving!

I would imagine that from a dog’s point of view, not only is the chase good fun, they also ‘win’ – after all the car leaves when it is chased!  This would make the behaviour even more rewarding for the dog. If we add an owner that is screaming and shouting at the dog to stop the behaviour to the mix, then the additional attention received (to a dog attention is attention whether negative or positive), will further reinforce the chasing behaviour. And so a vicious circle begins!

If your dog is already engaging in this behaviour, don’t fool yourself, not only does the dog stand a chance of being seriously injured,  road users who may suddenly swerve to avoid the dog as well as innocent bystanders are being put at risk. This can be a serious situation and it would be advisable to call in a professional to assist you. You can find a behaviourist in your area by visiting www.animal-behaviour.org.za. If you are unable to find anybody here, then please just contact us via the site and we will do our utmost to put you in touch with somebody to assist you.

 Once the dog is chasing, it is a behaviour that is very difficult to change as it is so self rewarding and unless worked on constantly, this is a behaviour that dogs tend to revert back to, especially if they are stressed, bored or frustrated.

Reasons why this behaviour may develop

  • Chasing involves a dog’s natural prey drive, this is not only a game, and they are actually hunting.
  • Genetic -Some breeds, such as herding, sporting, terriers and hounds, have a higher prey drive and are more likely to engage in this   behaviour than other breeds. 
  • I have found that the majority of dogs that do exhibit this behaviour share the following traits – they ignore the owner and are seldom walked, there is a lack of stimulation and/or human companionship, they are bored, or frustrated. 

Prevention

  • Both you and your dog would be much better served by avoiding this bad habit in the first place by not giving chase to your dog if it steals something – rather call him back and reward him for coming.
  • Put in place an excellent recall. My favourite is the Real Reliable Recall, which, if the directions are adhered too and practised often, makes an excellent recall. 
  • I find that basic training, such as House rules help to prevent this problem from arising as the dog is more likely to listen to the owner. 
  • Make sure that the dog has regular outside exercise and supply plentiful chew toys etc, to keep the dog occupied in the yard.
  • Many breeds are bred to retrieve and actually need an outlet to perform same. If your dog is of this type of breed, then engage in a lot of object throwing which satisfies the dog’s natural instinct to retrieve, but also make sure that the dog brings the object back to you.

If you are out with your dog and it shows interest in a car for the first time – get in there quickly. Call your dog in a happy tone of voice, and as it turns to look at you, reward with both verbal praise and a treat. You will have to practise this often and get the dog to associate moving traffic with something good coming from you, so carry a supply of high value extra special treats on your walks.  You will find, if done often enough, that the dog will start to turn towards you in anticipation of a treat when a car is nearby.  If the dog does not turn towards you, wiggle the treat in front of his nose until he does, and then reward immediatly. A lovely tool to use here is the Watch exercise and you can link to the article to see how this is achieved. Basically whenever you say ‘watch’ the dog looks at you, thereby serving as a distraction and an excellent training aid.

If your dog already chases cars

As mentioned above, the modifications to change this behaviour need to be adhered to constantly and it would be advisable to call in a professional for assistance.  Many behaviourists prefer the ‘startle’ method of stopping this behaviour by way of filling a balloon with water and throwing at the dog as it gives chase, or banging something loudly, turning the hose pipe on it etc. Some people even advocate the use of either electric shock collars or an electric wire placed at the gate. Personally, I will only use a method such as above as a very last resort and if all else fails; I would rather train the dog not to chase. If you and the dog are Clicker savvy I would suggest using a Clicker where necessary.

These are the basic exercises I would bring in before starting on the modifications to teach your dog another way of acting around cars.

Management – if your dog is running out of your gate to chase cars, either close the gate or fence off an area that will stop the dog gaining access to this area.

Stimulation – Supply the dog with a variety of chew toys, changing daily, to provide entertainment and diversion while out in yard.

Human Companionship – make sure your dog is not left in the garden all day by himself. Dogs are social animals and need the human connection.

Exercise –Walk your dog daily. When out for a walk, do not let you dog off lead until the chasing behaviour has been dealt with. If the dog is trying to chase while on lead, rather drive to a park and walk your dog there until you have completed the modifications to change behaviour.

Training – if your dog is not listening to you now when you call him, your chances of getting him back when chasing a car are nil. It is imperative with behaviour such as chasing that the dog views the owner/s as pack leaders and will listen to them. Here are some of the modifications that I recommend:-

  • House rules. Bring in the basic House Rules as in the article, doing a lot of the ‘work to earn’ exercise utilizing the recall in this regard. Feed all your dog’s daily requirements by hand, getting him to come to you for every single morsel of food, when you are not at work. Included in these is the NRM (non reward marker), which is good to bring in as you will be able to give your dog feedback as to what behaviour you like, and that which you don’t, in an everyday interaction. Once your dog understands this new cue and is proficient in it, you will be able to use it when you start the serious training to stop the behaviour.
  • Watch/Watch me. Being able to get your dogs attention on you at all times, will give you a huge advantage in getting his attention when a car is in the vicinity. With this exercise, start in the home (even using some of the ‘work to earn’ exercises to practice the Watch exercise). Don’t expect your dog to watch you in the street initially – practice in the home, in the garden, in an area without cars etc. This will help you to be successful when a car is in the vicinity.
  • Real Reliable Recall. This is an exercise that results in a dog having an excellent recall if the modifications are adhered too – a must with a dog that is a chaser. As in the point above, this is practised and perfected in the home and garden and places where it will be easy for the dog initially. When outside, I would suggest that you keep the dog on a long-line to really become proficient in this skill before attempting it without a long line or lead. There is an excellent article called Recall using the long line on the site which will help you to achieve this.
  • With a dog that was previously a chaser, it is vitally important that the dogs natural chase instinct is met with plenty of objects being thrown and brought back to you. I would suggest keeping the dog on a long line until your dog is proficient in this exercise to stop the dog running off with the item. This will also raise you in the human/canine hierarchy. There is an article on the site called Fetch – Teaching your dog to fetch, to help you with this.

Behaviour Modification for dogs chasing cars.

By now you will have brought in the changes and exercises above and it is time to start with an actual car. It is much easier to have a friend with a car help you with this exercise as you can then control the speed; how many times the car drives past and make sure you do not do more than your dog can cope with. This needs to be practised over and over again – doing only 5 times in one day is just not enough.

Start this exercise in your own driveway entrance as it will be much easier for the dog, and that is what we are aiming for – success. Starting this while out for a walk will offer far too many distraction initially.

  • Have the dog on lead near your open gate with a plentiful supply of nice smelly treats situated about your person, and a couple in your hand for easy access.

  • Ask your friend to drive very slowly past the entrance of the gate and as your dog turns its head to look at the car, use your Watch cue in a happy voice. As the dog looks at you, reward immediately with several treats and verbal praise. The reason for several treats (jackpot) is to really get the dogs attention and let it realize that looking at you is more rewarding than looking at the car. Repeat this exercise several times.

  • If this is too hard and you cannot get the dog’s attention, then go back a step and ask your friend to park the car in the road at the bottom of the driveway instead and practise as above.

  • If at any time your dog ignores you and tries to pull away towards the moving car, shout your NRM of ‘uhuh’ at the top of your voice, even giving a quick jerk on the lead. The second the dog stops trying to get to the car, offer treats and praise lavishly. By this time your dog should be totally familiar with the NRM as it will have been used by you daily.

  • When your dog is watching you each and every time your friend drives slowly past, ask her to go a bit faster and repeat the exercise over and over.

  • Your next step is to take a few steps outside the gate, closer to the road. When we change the location, we always go back to the beginning, so this time you will repeat as (b) above, asking your friend to drive past very slowly. Once your dog is proficient at this, request your friend to drive past faster, repeating as above.

  • Next step is to start walking your dog along the pavement and again you go back to the beginning of your friend driving past slowly and gradually increasing as the dog becomes more and more proficient at this exercise.

  • When you have mastered the above, choose another location to practise in, again starting from the beginning.

  • The key to success is as Gary Player, the golfer once said ‘the more I practice the luckier I get’.

  • When your dog is ignoring the car in the above situation, then it is time for real life. Choose a street that does not have cars whizzing past, rather find a quieter street that has speed bumps to force drivers to slow down. If your dog finds it too hard to walk in this situation without trying to chase a car, then go back a few steps, and ask the dog to Watch you from a standing, or sitting position, gradually building it up as you did above. 

Always use your judgement and if you feel the situation seems too tempting, too distracting or too stressful, don’t ask your dog to perform miracles. Practice with him daily and with every opportunity that arises. All dogs learn at different speeds and in the case of a dog that has been chasing cars, it will depend on how ingrained the behaviour is.

When your dog is ignoring cars while out for a walk and you want to take the training of this further and allow your dog once again off lead, then I would suggest you use a combination of the Recall using the Long Line together with the The Real Reliable Recall, starting off with a very short distance and gradually allowing the dog to get further and further away from you.

When you eventually let the dog off the lead completely, start at the beginning again, and don’t allow the dog to get further than a few steps away from you before calling back. Again you will build up the distance accordingly. When starting this exercise, I always advise owners to first walk the dog to tire it out a bit – nothing wrong with prevention!

Personally, I never allow my dogs off lead in any area that could pose a problem where traffic is concerned; rather look for parks that are fenced, on a beach, soccer field etc. With a dog such as this, where you know there could be possible problems with chasing, keep your eyes peeled for possible cars that could trigger the impulse to chase and call the dog back before it starts chasing. Don’t forget to do plenty of fetch exercising in your own garden. 

By Scotty Valadao : Accredited Animal Behaviourist (Cn) (ABC of SA™): TTouch Practitioner

Source: Friends of the Dog

Pet Emergencies – What can I do?

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Pet

Pet Emergencies – What can I do?

The following advice is not meant to replace the role of the veterinarian. However, for animals, we as the owners are generally the first responders to our pets in need. Being prepared for such unforeseen emergencies, will help ease your stress and hopefully help save your pets life.

The aim is to stabilise the pet, relieve pain if possible and provide safe transportation until you reach your vet.

Always remember, the safety of humans takes priority. You cannot help your pet if you put yourself or others in danger.

Stay Safe
Asses the environment and avoid danger or remove possibilities of further injuries.
Eg. if the animal is in the road, get it onto the side of the road immediately.

Animals in pain can be dangerous, even your own dog may want to bite due to being in shock and/or pain. If necessary, restrain the pet with a muzzle, towel or blanket (warm jacket etc) to prevent you being bitten or scratched.

If possible, transport a cat in a box to the vet.

Pet

During Car Accidents – Where you are able to assist
Remove the animal to the side of the road to a shady area, it may require you to drag them if they are large and unable to walk.

Check them to see if they are conscious and breathing (rise and fall of the chest, holding a hand or tissue in front of the nose). Check the eyes & pupils – If the eyes are open and staring with a dilated pupil, the animal will need CPR (IF NO obvious severe evisceration etc is seen).

Perform CPR if no sign of breathing – Remember ABC :  A – Airway /  B – Breathing / C- Circulation (Heart beat)

How to perform CPR in your pet.

Pet

A – Airway;
Ensure the airway is clear, remove any vomit, fluid, foreign body and pull the tongue forward.

B- Breathing;
Perform Nose-to-mouth breathing: Nose-to-mouth resuscitation is administered by first pulling the tongue forward so the tip is just through the teeth and closing the mouth.  Place your hands around the closed mouth sealing it as best you can.  Extend the neck to make a straight line from the nose to the tail and breathe into the animal’s nose.  Small dogs or cats need smaller breaths than large dogs.  After five breaths, re-assess the animal by feeling for a heartbeat and breathing.  If the animal still has a heartbeat but is not breathing, continue with resuscitation at 12 breaths a minute for small dogs and cats and 20 breaths for large dogs.  If the animal doesn’t have a heartbeat, start performing chest compressions

C- Circulation;
Check for a heart beat – Lay the dog on their right side, push the front elbow back to the chest. The spot where the elbow touches the chest is called the inter-costal space and marks where the heart is located. If you don’t see any movement in this area, place your hand over the same location and feel for a heartbeat. If no heartbeat, then start compressions.

Put both hands on the chest with straight arms, and perform cardiac compressions. For the number of compressions, the beat of “staying alive” from the Beegies is ideal.

Lay your hand over the heart (at the inter-costal space) and press firmly enough to compress the chest about one-third to one-half its usual depth. You should aim for 10 – 12 compressions over a five-second span. Repeat these steps at a one breath to 10 – 12 compressions ratio. Because you will be doing more than 100 compressions per minute, a new person should take over compressions after two minutes.

In very large dogs, if a third person is available, also compress the abdomen in large breeds. (If you’re gently compress the front part of the belly or squeeze the dog’s abdomen. Performing these chest compressions can help circulate blood back to the heart. However, it’s most important to focus on the rescue breathing and compressions. Abdominal compressions should be a secondary focus).

In deep chested dogs (eg Bull Dog, Boxer, Boerboel) perform compressions with the dog lying on its back instead of on its side.

Assess the dog
Check periodically to see if the dog has started breathing again – about every two minutes. If not, continue with the artificial respirations until help arrives or you are able to continue CPR while someone drives everyone to the vet.

Recovery Position
If the animal is breathing but still unconscious, lay it on its side with the head and neck slightly extended.  Fold a blanket or towels and place it under the shoulder but not the neck so that the chest is above the head.  This prevents fluids from the mouth going into the lungs.  Keep the pet warm with blankets and transport it as soon as possible to the veterinarian.

Wounds and Bleeding
Approach wounds as you would for a person. Wounds can be anything from a cut, punctures, scrapes or abrasions, to burn wounds.

If excessive bleeding – apply pressure above the wound (between the heart and the wound), cover the wound with a clean cloth or gauze swabs, and bandage until you can reach the vet. Do not remove the initial layers, (this may remove the clot that is forming and cause more bleeding).

Wounds with debri – gently trim excess hair around wound, rinse with running water / saline or flush with a syringe, apply silbecor / anti-septic cream, cover and bandage until you can reach the vet. Paw wounds can be soaked.

Penetration wounds – DO NOT remove any sticks / sharp objects penetrating the chest or abdomen – this may exacerbate internal problems. If necessary, apply dressings around the foreign objects and stabilize the pet and get to the vet as soon as possible.

Grazes and abrasions can be dealt with by trimming the fur around the area, cleaning with water or saline and apply a dressing making sure that it won’t stick to the wound.   

Shock
Knowing your animal is important to distinguish what is not “normal” and gauging how they are doing in a case of emergency.

What is shock? Shock is the body’s way of protecting itself. Recognizing symptoms of shock may save your animals life. There are different reasons for a shocked state, e.g blood loss, being septic due to severe infection, anaphylaxis, extreme pain to name a few obvious examples.

Symptoms will include: weakness (an animal is unable to stand/walk), pale gums (pale pink to white, or bright red to even purple), short shallow breaths, cold legs and paws or having seizures.

Examples that can lead to shock; Car accidents, falling off a height, severe infection (pyometra) or disease (diabetes), weather extremities, seizures, severe bleeding from wounds, burn wounds, knife stab wounds, gun shot wounds (including pellet guns), ruptured stomach ulcers, toxin ingestion for example.

In most cases, manage severe bleeding, keep the animal warm (wrap in a blanket) and try to keep them quiet, continue to talk calmy and gently to them and stroke them softly if they’ll allow. Do not offer food or water, alert the vet you are on the way and transport the animal there immediately.

Poisoning
Obvious signs of poisoning include drooling, vomiting, severe diarrhoea, twitching, tiredness, difficulty breathing and convulsions / seizures, collapsed pet.

Identify the toxin if possible and call your vet for immediate advice, have the following information at hand:

  • How much does your pet weigh?
  • What is the name of the toxin?
  • If the toxin is a medicine:
    • What is the strength?
    • What is the generic name?
    • Is it a special formulation (e.g., extended release)?
  • What is the active ingredient of the toxin?
  • How much do you think your pet ingested?
  • How much could your pet have ingested? (worst-case scenario)
  • How long ago (or what general time frame) did your pet ingest the toxin?
  • Is your pet showing any signs/symptoms?
  • If so, how long have you noticed the signs/symptoms?
  • How old is your pet?
  • Does your pet have any underlying health issues?
  • Is your pet currently on any medications?

It is vital to keep the pet quiet and warm and only act on the vet’s instructions as this will differ depending on the substance that was swallowed.

In the event that an animal has consumed something toxic, and you are aware of this in time, to get them to vomit (inducing emesis) before most of the absorption can take place is the best option. The golden window is within the first 30 minutes of ingestion, but even then, we can only hope for a maximum of 60% of the content to be expelled.

3% hydrogen peroxide has been recommended to use at home in the past, but the latest information has confirmed complications with oesophageal lesions and stomach ulceration, which is why it should be best avoided.

Emesis induction is contraindicated in patients that are symptomatic, have airway disease, have an altered mentation, have already been vomiting, or have ingested a corrosive/caustic agent.

Most common poisonings are due to garden chemicals, rat and snail bait, chocolate, paint or human medications in the home, consuming batteries.

At home remedy: You can attempt to get your dog to vomit by giving it a bolus of a “golf ball size” of non-exothermic washing powder (if you wet the washing power and hold it in your hand, and it does not become warm it is safe to use). If they do not vomit within 5 min, get them to the vet immediately.

Most poisonings will still require veterinary treatment as mentioned we can at best hope for only 40-60% of the toxin being expelled, but if you can prevent the major source of absorption, this can help reduce the long term effects.

If you are not sure if a product is toxic, you can always call your emergency vet for advice.
The American Animal Poisoning Control website and app can be helpful to refer to as well.

Choking
Choking is one of the most stressful emergencies one will experience. This occurs when an object blocks air from interring and leaving the lungs. The foreign object may even be lodged in the oesophagus. Physiological choking may occur due to laryngeal paralysis, anaphylaxis or heat stroke.

Symptoms include a very distressed animal, pawing at the mouth, severe respiratory distress (forceful breathing attempts), blue tongue or gums, gasping / choking sounds, excessive salivation and bulging, large eyes.

If the animal is in extreme distress, and no obvious foreign body can be identified, stay calm and bring that animal to vet as soon as possible.

Alternatively, one can try to remove the object from a choking dog’s windpipe, if it is conscious, open the mouth by grasping the upper jaw with one hand and the lower jaw with the other, tilting the head back slightly.  Pull the tongue to the side and remove the object if possible.  If this isn’t possible, stand behind the dog, put your arms under their belly just in front of the rear limbs and lift their hind legs high off the ground like a wheelbarrow.  Gently shake to see if the object will fall out.  This procedure can be repeated up to 4 times. If the foreign object cannot be dislodged or it is dangerous for you to attempt removing it, contact the vet for advice immediately.

Pet

Cats should be restrained in a towel first. Their mouth can be opened by gently pulling the head upwards and slightly back by placing the thumb and finger on either side of the jaw and the palm across the head. Use the other hand to lower the bottom jaw and remove the object.

See this video and image of the Heimlich manoeuvre in a pet.

Convulsions / Seizures / Fits
Seizures can be a symptom of a problem or a medical condition in your dog. If your dog shows this for the first time, a veterinarian must always be consulted. Causes for these can be due to poisoning, illness, infections and epilepsy.

What does a seizure look like? The animal will become distressed and restless. The first signs usually will be that of excessive drooling, lip smacking, moving into champing jaws / jaw clattering, staring eyes, urination, defecation, collapse, falling over and paddling.

IF you see this, do not approach the animal or try to “remove the tongue from the mouth”. Stay calm and start timing the seizure. Move objects away that may fall on the animal or hurt the animal, and tone done lights and noise (eg. the radio playing).

IF the seizure continues for longer than 5min, roll the animal on a towel or blanket and with the help of someone if it is a large dog, place into the car and take to the vet.

If the seizure is short acting, wait calmly until it is over, contact your vet and take it in for examination. Seizures generally only last for a few seconds, it will always feel longer. Convulsions or ‘fits’ can be quite traumatizing for a pet owner to witness.

Heat Stroke
Heat stroke is when the body’s core temperature rises above normal and due certain factors, they are not able to cool down. This starts a series of events in the body that may lead to complete organ failure and death. This is a very serious condition.

Common causes are from animals exercising in the heat of the day. From a pet being left in a car or area with no shade or ventilation. Brachycephalic dogs and cats are even more predisposed to this due to their restricted airways.

Symptoms are an animal panting excessively with increased breathing noises (from the throat), vomiting, drooling, distress, loss of coordination, collapse and acute death. The animal will also feel very warm by touch.

Should you suspect your pet maybe suffering from heat stroke, remove the animal from the hot environment, start cooling them down with cool to luke warm water. Place a fan on them or drive with the aircon on / windows open. Ice packs covered in a wet towel can be placed between the legs front (auxilla) and back (inguinal).

Transport the animal to the vet as soon as possible.

NEVER immerse the pet or use ice cold water over the body. It will only trap the core temperature due to vasoconstriction and make the heat stroke worse.

Once the pet is comfortable again offer cool water but only in small amounts.  Too much water taken in quickly may cause vomiting.

Bites and Stings
Although knowing what caused the bite or sting is helpful to the veterinarian, never put yourself at risk to try to kill or locate it.

Bee Stings
One of the most common stings that we see. Most bee stings are fortunately not a lethal problem, but may cause allergies.  Most will be stung around the mouth & face, sometimes paw. They can develop fascial swelling, urticaria (lumps and bumps everywhere) and worse case scenario, develop anaphylaxis.

In minor reactions, see if you can find the sting and remove with a sharp knife / bank card by scraping against the angle of sting. Do not struggle with fingers as it will “pump” more venom into the animal.

A cold compress can be applied to the area swelling up, and animal should be taken to the vet.

In the unfortunate event that the animals have been attacked by a swarm of bees, get them to the vet immediately. This is a very serious matter.

Scorpion Stings
Scorpion stings are extremely painful and maybe lethal. Symptoms will range from vocalizing due to unrelenting pain, excessive drooling, tremors, weakness, ataxia, collapse, paralysis and even death.

Anti-venom must be administered and generally the treatment of choice is an induced coma to manage the pain.

Snake Bites
As for snake bites, the treatment of choice is anti-venom administered by your emergency veterinarian.

Stay safe, remove the animal away from the culprit snake if possible and remain calm. Call your emergency vet while on the way. If possible, take a picture / identify the snake.

In South Africa we have 3 types of snake venom – Anti-coagulant (Boom slang), Neurotoxic (eg. Cobra’s) and Cytotoxic ( eg. Puff adder). Boom slang anti-venom must be obtained specifically and fortunately, for the rest we have multi-venom anti-venom vials available in South Africa.

Spider bites
Spider bites are mostly cytotoxic and can cause severe necrotic wounds.

What you can do on the way to vet with in these situations;

Stay calm, and if possible, identify the poisonous animal – take a picture with your phone.

In the case of limbs, initial treatment is to apply a pressure immobilisation bandage. This is done using a crepe or conforming bandage (or panty hose if a bandage is not available) over the bitten area and around the limb. Apply it firmly but not so tight that it stops the blood flow. Bandage down to the paw and then up as far as possible on the limb. A splint can be applied using a rolled-up newspaper or piece of wood with a second bandage. Do not remove the bandages, keep the animal as quiet as possible and transport him to the vet immediately.

Near Drowning
In the event that an animal is found in the pool – Immediately remove the animal, hang upside down to allow for excess fluid to drain from the lungs, neck and mouth.

If non-responsive, check for heart beat and breathing.
If a heartbeat is present start to perform CPR, with the heart beat only perform breathing until animal become responsive. Take to the vet as soon as possible.

Please note whether you have a salt or chlorine pool.

If no heart beat present, full on CPR is required.

CPR on dogs

First Aid for Pets – How to prepare for the unexpected

Source: TEARS Animal Rescue

Why is my cat limping?

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Image: Pixabay

Is your cat limping and you don’t know why? It could be their paw, a muscle, or a joint that’s bothering them — but they won’t be able to meow the exact location of what’s ailing them. Cats may limp for a variety of reasons. So, it’s important to understand what to look for and learn how to help alleviate their distress

Common Causes of Limping
Sometimes, your cat may be limping from a simple accident. They may have got something stuck in their paw pad, or they may even have a slight muscle strain. Wait until your cat is calm and lying down. Then, try to inspect their leg and paw. Look for noticeable swelling, redness or signs of pain like meowing or flinching when you lightly touch the area. Wag! points out that a cat with a paw pad injury, such as an ingrown claw, may also lick one paw excessively or avoid walking on that foot. Even if you don’t see any swollen paws, and they seem to be doing most of their usual activities, a little limp may warrant calling your veterinarian to prevent an infection setting in.

One danger for cats that can sometimes cause leg injuries is “high rise syndrome,” says the Animal Medical Center of New York. A curious cat can easily jump out of an open window and fall. Make sure your windows have strong screens and never leave them open when you’re not at home. Even a jump from a high bookshelf can injure an elderly (or a very small) cat, so be aware of how much access they have to high perches.

Arthritis is another issue that can cause cat limping. An older cat who walks stiffly, no longer jumps onto or off of the couch, or suddenly becomes reclusive may be suffering from joint pain. Your vet may recommend changing their food to one that supports joint health or fixing them a new napping corner in a warm, low-to-the-ground spot.

If things do not improve within twenty-four hours, it is best to have the limp looked at by a vet to avoid any long-term damage. Cats are great at hiding their pain, so if they are showing signs, it is likely severe enough that your vet should take a look. Your vet may also take an X-ray to determine the cause of your cat’s leg injury.

Getting to the Vet
If your cat is in pain, the process of coaxing them into their cat carrier for a trip to the vet may be more difficult than usual. Here are a few things to keep in mind to make the trip less stressful for you and your fur baby:

  • Try putting a blanket or shirt that your cat likes to snuggle up to on inside the carrier — one that smells like you may calm them down. Line it with a sprinkle of catnip or a treat and one of their favourite soft toys.
  • If your cat will not go into the carrier on their own, handle them gently and be cautious about forcing them into the carrier. You don’t want them to injure themselves more. You can put them on a blanket and wrap them up to help them feel secure before placing them in the carrier to risk injury to them or yourself.

Image: Pixabay

When to Be Concerned
Unfortunately, some cat leg injuries will take time to heal. You may have heard of athletes suffering from an anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) tear, but did you know cats can also have ACL injuries? The Atlantic Veterinary Hospital writes that kitty ACL tears usually result from jumping or falling from high places, and are more common in overweight cats. A visit to the vet will confirm if the injury requires surgery, pain medication, or another treatment.

When cat limping is more severe due to an injury or serious illness, it is very important to limit your cat’s movement and not allow them to jump or run. Consider borrowing a large dog crate to keep your cat contained while they heal. Make sure you get one large enough for them to have space to walk around between a small litter pan, water bowl and bed or blanket. You can also give them a room in your house, away from other pets and children.

Even if you don’t give your kitty a private room, you’ll need to make sure their litter box is one that does not require much effort to get into and out of. A shallow baking tray or a small pan for kittens will keep them from injuring themselves further or eliminating outside the box from pain.

It is also important that you never give your cat medication for their pain that your vet did not prescribe. Over the counter medication that is made for humans can be toxic to cats and can make the situation exponentially worse.

Whether your cat is limping due to something minor or major, it is still important to spend quality time with them and try to keep your kitty calm and relaxed. Giving them extra cuddles and some special treats (but not too many) will make the recovery time more bearable as well. It is also important to note that because your cat can’t be as active during their recovery time as normal, they won’t be able to get adequate exercise. It is important to follow your vet’s recommendations for properly feeding them so that they do not put on unnecessary weight and exacerbate their leg injury. As a pet parent, it’s never fun to see your pet in pain, but if you follow your vet’s recommendations, your companion will be back to their frisky self before you know it!

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Helping your pets in an emergency

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Knowing what to do during an animal emergency can be the difference between life and death.

When your animals suffer an injury or poisoning, knowing what first aid to do can have a massive impact on their recovery, safety and comfort.  This is an important topic with much more to learn, but let’s get into some of the basic tips.

First do your research
Knowing and understanding what illnesses and conditions our pets might face is the key to the longevity of life. Whichever animal species you are a guardian (owner) of, learn about first aid and CPR for the particular animal, the breed, or species-specific health conditions they may suffer from. Also learn about the medications they can take, body language and signs of pain or stress in the particular specie.

Prepare
Always be prepared for emergencies in advance. This includes physically, like your first aid kit, emotionally by knowing what to do and financially because emergencies can be expensive. Some of the most likely emergencies may include, poisoning, wounds, seizures, drowning or choking. Save your veterinarian’s emergency number and a backup one in case, in advance.

Prevention
Prevention is always better than cure! Keep them healthy, dewormed, vaccinated and treated against ticks and fleas. Feed a species-appropriate diet and provide proper enrichment (mental/physical/social, etc.). Make sure their enclosure/yard is the right size and safe to prevent injury and stress. Keep dangerous objects and products out of their reach and KEEP THEM OUT OF THE STREETS!

Prevention also includes regular health checks, whether at your vet or by yourself. 

Health-Check list

  • Behaviour
  • Body Condition
  • Skin & Coat
  • Ears & Eyes
  • Nose & Mouth
  • Nails & Paws
  • Stool check
  • Vitals like breathing, heart rate, body temperature

WHAT TO DO DURING AN EMERGENCY?

  • First, stay calm and ensure the safety of yourself and others. Assess the situation before acting. Remember that injured animals can be frightened and may act differently than usual when you touch or interact with them.
  • Contact your vet. There may not always be a vet available immediately, but staff may be able to suggest immediate action you can take to help your pet. Have a pen close by in case another number is given.
    More effective treatment can be provided if they are taken to the vet immediately instead of waiting for a call-out vet.
  • If there is a risk of biting, put a muzzle on. If you don’t have one, you can make a temporary one, but it should never cause difficulty breathing and the nose need to be open. Small dogs or cats may be restrained by putting a towel over their heads or wrapped around their body.
  • Never give human medicines to a pet without consulting with your vet as it could do more harm. Some medications are fine in one specie but lethal in another.
  • Do not give food or something to drink in case an anesthetic is needed.
  • Drive carefully when taking the patient to surgery.
  • Do not remove penetrating objects. It needs to be stabilized and only removed by a trained individual.
  • Don’t try to deal with serious injuries yourself.

Your pet First Aid Kit

It is important to fit your first aid kit for the particular specie of animalsyou are a guardian (owner) of. What you may need for a bunny can be different from what you need for a dog. It is also important to store the supplies together and where they are easily accessible. You can put it in a backpack, tackle boxes, toiletries bags, etc.

HELPING-YOUR-PETS-IN-AN-EMERGENCY.

Rescue packs for poisoning – This for us is a must-have since poisoning emergencies occur daily.  These kits include activated charcoal which may buy precious minutes, to get them to the vet to save their life. They still need to go to the vet after administering this rescue pack. You can usually buy them from your local SPCA or other organizations for less than R50.

Dressings / “white goods” – These are items like medical tape, non-stick pads, roll gauze, gauze squares, and cotton-tipped applicators. They can be used to help stop bleeding, cover and protect the wound or keep the dressing in place. It’s also helpful to include an old white sheet.

Cleaning supplies/disinfectants – Pre-packaged pads like alcohol pads or betadine pads work well in smaller kits. Bottles with these solutions can be stored in your larger kit. Hand sanitizer can also be useful and I guess many of you currently have stock of this.

Tools to use – This will include scissors, tweezers, a flashlight, a CPR barrier mask, gloves, duct tape, and a carabiner that can all be useful in an emergency. Nail clippers specifically for your pets, syringes and plastic bags can also be included.

Pet-specific items – A muzzle, an extra leash, a harness and booties are pet-specific items that should be considered based on your pet and your needs. Many of these items have the potential for multiple uses! Some form of restraint is important to protect your pet from further injury or cause injury to you.

Water – Water is not only useful for drinking, but also for flushing wounds, soothing burns, washing off toxins, soaking a paw, or cooling an overheated pet. Keep some water in your first aid kit along with a collapsible water bowl.

Medications – In addition to a small quantity of your pet’s regular medications, you can also include something to help stop bleeding, something for mild allergic reactions and sugar tablets that can help a diabetic pet or a pet with low blood sugar.

Hydrogen peroxide or small amounts of salt can induce vomiting and help get rid of ingested toxins or foreign objects. Vomiting should not always be induced, so only do this under the direction of a veterinarian, as some toxins or materials will cause more harm if they are vomited up. Additionally, hydrogen peroxide should never be given to a cat, as it can cause severe stomach bleeding.
Talk to your vet about which medications as they know your pet best.

Thermometer – A thermometer is necessary for determining if your pet has a fever or is hypothermic (the normal body temperature for a dog and cat is approximately 37-39°C) The temperature should be taken rectally, as it more accurately reflects the pet’s core body temperature. To make the insertion easier on your pet, keep a petroleum or water-based lubricant in the first aid kit.

A thermal blanket can be helpful too.

Treats – This can be used to distract your pet, help keep them calm, or even as a reward for being a “good boy or girl” during an emergency.

Emergency information cards – You don’t want to be looking for numbers when an emergency happens, so save all the important local numbers in one place and have a copy of it in your first aid kit.  You can put an emergency card about your pets in your wallet and car. Here are example cards to print. 

Please note that this is not a complete kit content list!

When your pet is choking you can perform the Heimlich maneuver, but when they are not breathing nor have a pulse, you will need to perform CPR, which may differ a bit for example with birds versus dogs.

When you are away, please don’t leave your pets without someone checking in every 8-12 hours at least. Have an emergency plan for pets when something happens to you and include them in your will, in case of death. Consider adding small bords somewhere in your home near an entrance in case of a fire, which includes how many and what kinds of pets live there. This should not be obvious to thieves.
It is always better to be prepared for an emergency or know first aid and not use it than to need it and not have the skills.  You can contact Langamed to attend one of their pet first aid courses.

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin
Website: www.thebulletin.co.za

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Neuropathic Pain in Dogs

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Neuropathic Pain in Dogs - image

Neuropathic Pain in Dogs can take on many forms, and our beloved pooches can’t express to us in words how they’re feeling, so it remains our responsibility as pet parents to watch out for any changes in their behaviour that indicate they are in physical pain and take them to an experienced veterinarian to identify the primary source of the pain and advise on the correct treatment. By doing this we can ensure vet care is provided at the earliest possible opportunity, saving our dogs from what could be intense and prolonged physical pain.

What is Neuropathic Pain in Dogs?

Neuropathic pain is when a sense of pain transfers from the initial source and neural pathways become abnormally sensitised. The pain can occur with or without provocation.

Causes of Neuropathic Pain in Dogs

The most widely known causes of neuropathic pain in dogs can be associated with any disease (such as a tumour) or injury which impacts the functioning of the spinal cord and the nervous system. Any irregularity in the normal functioning of the peripheral or central nervous system can be attributed to this pain. The following are other potential causes of neuropathic pain:

  • phantom pain caused from amputation of a limb
  • hyperthyroidism
  • diabetes (link to
  • intervertebral disc herniation

Symptoms

If the pain is a result of tissue or nerve damage, pet owners will notice that a light touch to the affected area will intensify the pain for their pooches (allodynia). Their dog may also experience increased sensitivity to the area (hyperalgesia) and move away from them because of the heightened sensitivity to touch (hyperpathia).

However, if this condition is a result of spinal cord related issues, then the most common symptoms would most likely manifest as mobility issues. Pet parents may notice the emergence of the following symptoms:

  • muscle wasting or atrophy
  • persistent limping or dragging of limbs
  • low tolerance for any form of exercise
  • change in mood and behaviour
  • unwillingness to engage in physical activity such as exercise
  • significant change in posture
  • crying out or vocalisation of pain
  • loss of appetite
  • urination and defecation in unsuitable places
  • consistently chewing or licking the affected area

Diagnosis

Because your pooch is unable to communicate their pain, it’s difficult for pet parents to assess the origin or severity of their chronic (continuous) pain, so taking your pet to the vet as soon as you observe associated signs of this condition is essential as your pup certainly doesn’t deserve to endure this distress.

Your vet will usually initiate a diagnostic procedure starting with an examination of the medical history of your beloved canine. You know your pooch best and because they cannot verbalise how they feel, as their pet parent you are their voice and it is your responsibility to communicate clearly with your vet during this process, describing in great detail any observations you may have picked up. The veterinarian may ask questions about the length and intensity of the associated pain or out of character behaviour, recent or past injuries, illnesses and any areas where the pain may be originating from. Reflex tests, basic blood tests and x-rays may also be performed to identify and rule out probable causes of the issue, such as spinal cord tumours.

There are a few key techniques used for diagnosing a neuropathic state in dogs, such as applying hot/cold temperatures, gently patting with cotton, applying pressure or even a pinprick to an affected area. When such methods are applied to a healthy dog, not much pain may be inflicted, but they sure can be excruciating to pooches suffering from neuropathic pain so prepare yourself.

Treatment

Veterinarians will prescribe pain relievers or analgesic medicine for your beloved companion to ease the intensity of the pain to acquire relief. Dosage types may change until the optimal effect of the medication is achieved. Based on the causes of the chronic pain, an effective treatment framework would comprise of non-pharmacological therapy such as massage and acupuncture along with medication which may comprise of opioids, anti-inflammatories and anti-epileptics. Your pooch’s quality of life depends upon how effectively the chronic pain management is implemented and monitored.

Management

Schedule daily or weekly follow ups with your veterinarian to ensure your pooch is responding favourably to the medication tailored to their individual needs. It’s of vital importance to monitor and report any positive or negative changes your dog is experiencing under the treatment to your veterinarian. Remember that unfortunately, neuropathic pain doesn’t disappear but with the proper pain management plan, your pooch can still have the happy, pain-free life they ought to have.

Written for inFURmation
by Taliah Williamson