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The proper Lifting and Lowering of a Rabbit

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The proper Lifting and Lowering of a Rabbit

What a you should know about caring of a rabbit

Every now and then it is necessary to pick up a rabbit. If it is to take then to another enclosure, put them in a transport basket, lift them to examine them more closely or for whatever reason. Depending on the nature of the animal (anxious, shy, aggressive), preparations may be necessary (creating a basis of trust). If the ‘chemistry’ between rabbit and human is right, it is possible to lift the rabbit without harming it. The following steps will shortly explain how to pick a rabbit up safely and set it down again:

As a prey creature, the rabbit is a flight-animal by nature, among its natural main-enemies are gripping-birds. If a human wants to access the rabbit from above, it will defend itself against being picked up with the danger of breaking its backbone by kicking its hind legs. Against this background one must

  • establish a basis of trust
  • carefully accustom the animal to the lift
  • first familiarise the rabbit with the touch of your hand

A rabbit must never be pulled up by the ears, legs, neck or tail. The risk of injuries of the soft tissues, dislocation of the joints, bone fractures, spinal fracture is too high. In order to be able to receive the animal properly and safely one must

  • place one hand under the chest of the rabbit, fixate the rabbit’s front legs with your thumb
  • put your other hand under the rabbit’s buttocks, and fixate the hind legs with your fingers

To carefully get used to lifting, one should

  • lift the front legs slightly
  • resettle on the ground
  • reward the rabbit
  • repeat the exercise
  • later lift the hind legs just as easily

Now the rabbit can be lifted carefully. So that it cannot flee, one must grasp it well.

In order to put the rabbit down again without danger, you must

  • continue to hold it well
  • squat or kneel down
  • lead it carefully to the ground
  • let it go carefully

Source: Four Paws

Farmed Rabbits

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rabbits

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Farmed Rabbits

Learn more about how rabbits suffer in cages to end up on a plate

Over a billion rabbits worldwide are suffering in cages for meat production. The cages are often extremely small – up to 20 animals are kept at one square meter. This limits the rabbits’ freedom of movement and their natural behaviour. Rabbits are very sensitive animals and by keeping them in such cramped conditions leads to serious health and behavioural problems.

Fast Facts

What you should know about farmed rabbits

Why do rabbits suffer in cages?

Natural behaviour is impossible in such a cage: due to the narrowness and the very high number of animals per cage, the rabbits, who normally enjoy running around, digging into the ground and gnawing on branches and scrubs, are doomed to immobility. They are also unable to escape or retreat from aggressive con-species. The low cages also deform their spine because they cannot even sit upright. They do not get any daylight or enrichment materials and due to the impossibility of being able to move and to occupy themselves appropriately by foraging and exploring, behavioral disorders often develop. Abnormal, repetitive movements (stereotypies), high levels of physical aggression and gnawed or injured ears are a daily occurrence.

The wire mesh flooring often causes serious injuries to the paws or legs. If the wounds become infected, serious complications can occur. Confined spaces and poor air quality due to the high ammonia content can cause breathing problems, lung diseases and purulent eyes. The lack of hay and straw for food along with poor hygiene is causing teeth problems and consequently diarrhoea and other bowel diseases that can lead to death in rabbits.

The breeding cages, in which mother rabbits spend their entire lives in, are even worse: serious injuries to the paws and legs as well as curvature of the spine are particularly common here. The lifelong and cramped individual husbandry of breeding rabbits prevents natural and social behaviour. The mother rabbit has no possibility to retreat from her offspring, which they would otherwise do to forage for food. This in turn often leads to aggression towards their own young animals. Sometimes they even kill their young. Mother rabbits under these conditions, only live a little over a year and a half. After a year as a ‘birthing machine’ that has to produce offspring continuously, the animals get exhausted and fall ill, then they are ‘replaced’.

How do rabbits naturally live?

What does the natural life of a rabbit look like in freedom?
Wild rabbits dig tunnels and caves into the ground. They hide in these caves, where they also give birth to their young. Rabbits are social animals, who dig structures, graze and rest together as well as groom each other for important components of social interaction. As very active animals, they can run up to 30 kilometres per hour and their jumps can reach up to 70 centimetres, which they do for foraging food as they are very selective feeders.

The strict hierarchy in the rabbit hole allows higher-ranking rabbits to drive away lower-ranking animals. The subordinate rabbits flee to avoid being bitten. That is why sufficient space in rabbit husbandry is so important: every rabbit must have enough space to be able to run away from the aggression. Hidden places must also be offered so that the animals can hide and retreat. Rabbit mothers in particular need opportunities for this – in the wild they would feed their offspring only for about three minutes a day before rejoining the group of adult rabbits, while the young animals remain in the nest.

What are the basic needs of rabbits?

  • Rabbits need to be able to move freely and hop around their cage where they are also able to forage, explore and rest; there should be hiding places available, along with elevated surfaces.
  • Rabbits are a social species and must be kept in stable groups – they should be kept socially as it is otherwise highly detrimental to their health but with ample retreat options so that they can retreat from possible aggressive situations with conspecifics in the group.
  • Readily available gnawing material and a balanced diet is not essential only for the enrichment purposes, but the lack of hay and straw for food can cause severe teeth problems and consequently diarrhea and other bowel diseases that leads to death in rabbits.
  • A digging crate with sand and soil or other options for digging should be made available so that the animals can express their natural behavior
  • Sufficient lying space with dry and soft bedding – wire mesh flooring causes serious injuries to the paws or legs which can lead to severe complications if they become infected.
  • Their housing should have a good ventilation in place – poor air quality due to the high ammonia content causes breathing problems, lung diseases and purulent eyes.
  • Animals should be kept in good health and receive veterinary care when and if needed, along with pain relief for injuries that inevitably occur during the shearing process.

If neglected, it leads to poor welfare states and therefore to suffering, acute pain, distress, fear, and long-term negative welfare states. Learn more about how rabbits suffer under cruel practices.

Legal position for rabbit keeping in Europe?
Which legal provisions apply to farmed rabbits – and why they are not sufficient:

Over 340 million rabbits live in cages across the European Union1. Since there are currently no actual EU directives or regulations that stipulate minimum areas for rabbits, the space available for these animals is particularly limited. In doing so, their natural behaviour patterns, such as hopping and digging, are extremely restricted. There are no retreat or hiding places in the conventional cages, which are very important for the well-being of these animals. The majority of rabbits for meat production in the European Union are kept in Spain, France and Italy1, with animal fur being used as a ‘by-product’ for fur production.

In 2017, the majority of the European Parliament voted for minimum standards for farmed rabbits. Now the EU Commission is asked to quickly develop legislative proposals for better conditions for keeping rabbits. Currently, the Commission is evaluating the ‘EU Strategy for Protection and Welfare of Animals (2012-2015)’, and preparing other strategies, like the ‘Farm to Fork Strategy’, which plans for actions on animal welfare in the context of a more sustainable agriculture. In May 2020, the Commission launched a Fitness Check, which is an evaluation of the EU legislation on the welfare of farmed animals2. It will help the Commission to assess the relevance of its current legislation framework regarding animal welfare on farms, during transport and at killing, and will hopefully help improve the caged rabbits´ situation.

While an EU-wide ban on conventional cages for broiler chickens has been in force since January 2012, cages for rabbits have not yet been questioned. There is currently no EU regulation on the keeping of rabbits. FOUR PAWS already pointed out the need for better legislation in 2015 in a lecture to the EU Parliament and we are actively working on an EU-wide ban on caged rabbits. For us there is only one way to end the cruelty: A ban on industrial keeping of rabbits for meat and textiles. 

Sources:

  1.  Europäisches Parlament: REPORT on minimum standards for the protection of farm rabbits (2016/2077(INI)). Published January 2017 
  2.  https://ec.europa.eu/food/animals/welfare/strategy/evaluation-eu-legislation-welfare-farmed-animals_en
  3. https://ec.europa.eu/food/animals/welfare/strategy/evaluation-eu-legislation-welfare-farmed-animals_en

What is FOUR PAWS position on farmed rabbits? 
The current legal situation regarding rabbit husbandry in the EU is far from sufficient to guarantee an almost animal-friendly husbandry – among other things, caging remains permitted.

We will never accept the feeble excuse that caging animals is a necessary evil of food production. Cage farming is a practice in which animals are imprisoned in factory farm cages. In Europe alone, hundreds of millions of animals spend their entire lives in cages. Cages keep animals isolated or tightly packed in confined areas.

FOUR PAWS calls:

  • For a worldwide ban on all cage systems for rabbits
  • That dealers and wholesalers stop selling rabbit meat
  • That restaurants and canteens do not process and serve rabbit meat
  • For the fulfillment of basic needs of rabbits
rabbits

© VIER PFOTEN

What can you do:

  • Do not order rabbit meat dishes in restaurants and canteens.
  • Try a plant-based diet and avoid meat and animal products more often. Find out more!
  • Support the FOUR PAWS’ mission and become a part of our movement to end animal suffering! Join our mailing list here.
rabbits

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Learn more about rabbits as pets

Here

Source: Four paws

The Torment of Sheep in the Wool and Meat Industry

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The Torment of Sheep in the Wool and Meat Industry

Lamb or mutton – the suffering in sheep husbandry

Sheep are not used only for the production of wool – they are also very commonly used for the production of dairy and meat products. As with most widely used animal-based products, wool production and sheep farming come with major animal welfare issues. Most sheep live in extensive production systems and stay outdoors permanently. However, intensive farming, where animals are kept indoors permanently, is also practised, leading to various animal welfare issues. Mutilations, that are practised in sheep production systems (e.g., tail docking, castration, live lamb cutting (mulesing)) are not always necessary and are often very cruel. Sheep are sometimes transported over long distances to be slaughtered in other countries, with weaker (less animal-friendly) legislation or enforcement. Slaughtering sheep without adequate stunning methods is also of concern.

Live Lamb Cutting: a cruel mutilation

Live lamb cutting is the process where lambs are restrained on their backs, while strips of skin are cut away from their backside. It causes excruciating pain, fear, and stress, and it is legal to carry out this procedure without any form of pain relief. This painful procedure is practised in Australia to avoid Myiasis (Flystrike) – the infestation of a sheep’s body by flies, which lay their eggs in the skin folds of the hind parts of the sheep. ‘Live lamb cutting’ does not adequately protect sheep against flystrike, as flies can attack other parts of a sheep’s body (‘bodystrike’). FOUR PAWS opposes live lamb cutting and calls on brands and industry stakeholders to phase out the practice.

Learn more about our campaign to stop live lamb cutting (mulesing).

Mutilations

Like other farm animals, sheep are subjected to a number of painful mutilations, that adapt the animal to the husbandry system, instead of vice versa. Besides mulesing in Australia, there is tail docking, where the tip of the tail (or the whole tail) is removed, without anaesthesia during the procedure or with any pain relief after it, even though a simple solution exists – breeding of sheep with short tails. Male sheep are also subjected to painful castration procedures, again performed without anaesthesia, and female sheep are sometimes artificially inseminated laparoscopically, which is very painful for the animal.

Learn more about other painful mutilation sheep have to endure.

Long-distance transport of sheep

Sheep are often transported over long distances to be slaughtered in other countries, with weaker and less animal-friendly legislation or enforcement. In particular, animals are usually transported for several days and weeks in disastrous conditions. Numerous animals sustain serious injuries and quite regularly animals die a torturous death during the journeys.

In November 2019, a vessel loaded with 14,000 sheep capsized on its way from Romania to Saudi Arabia, leaving the sheep to die. FOUR PAWS and its Romanian partner organisation ARCA were able to rescue 254 animals, out of which 180 survived. These sheep are the lucky ones, and a constant reminder of the millions of farmed animals that keep suffering as long as live transports exist.

Read more about this mission.

Separation of lambs from their mothers

Sheep, that are also used for the production of dairy products, are separated from their young soon after giving birth – just as dairy cows and their calves are separated. This causes severe welfare issues for the animals and should not be allowed, with mother-bounded rearing becoming the standard in the dairy industry for all animals.

When a sheep and her lamb are separated right after birth, there is no mother-child bond established. If they are allowed to stay together for a certain time, but still weaned too early, then this can lead to serious animal welfare relevant reactions. Due to lack of child-mother-contact, behavioural disorders can occur, with signs of extreme mental suffering, which can lead to physical impairment, e.g. serious loss of weight (emaciation).

Therefore, all lambs must be reared for a period of at least 45 days (90 for meat lambs) and given an opportunity at least twice a day to complete a natural suckling process and then engage in social behavior with their mother. At least during the first seven days of life, mother and lamb must be kept together and if they are separated afterwards, the mother and lamb must be able to have visual and physical contact until they are weaned, which should take place gradually, over a period of at least one week. From the 8th day of life, the lambs must also be kept in groups – no single keeping of animals should be allowed.

FOUR PAWS Calls For…

The end of cruel practices:

They are inducing fear, pain and distress, thus diminishing the immune system, altering brain function and the natural behaviour of animals.

  • Live Lamb Cutting (Mulesing): Live lamb cut-free wool should become a standard worldwide, as it can easily be replaced by less cruel alternatives.
  • Ban on painful mutilations: Like other farm animals, sheep are subjects to painful mutilations.
  • Ban on the separation of lambs from their mothers: Sheep, that are also used for the production of dairy products, are separated from their young.
  • Higher standards regarding transport: Various abuses are known, such as dehydration due to lack of water supply, diseases, and injuries to the animals due to rough handling. Long-distance travel (more than 8 hours) should therefore not be allowed, nor should it be allowed for animals that are not weaned yet. Read more about our demands regarding live animal transport.
  • Highest regulations on slaughter in all world countries: Sheep are often transported into countries that have a weaker and less animal-friendly legislation or the enforcement.

Fulfilment of basic needs:

If neglected it leads to poor welfare states and therefore to suffering, acute pain, distress, fear, and long-term negative welfare states. Basic needs of sheep are:

  • Sheep are a social species and must be kept in stable groups – no individual keeping should be allowed, with lambs having access to their mothers and male sheep should be separated in a different group once they reach maturity (3 months).
  • A diet of quality grazing material is not only essential for maintaining their physical health, but also gives them the possibility to express their natural behaviour of browsing for food.
  • The animals should be kept in dry outdoor climate stalls (open front deep litter stalls) with a permanently accessible, paved and sure-footed running yard; or if kept outside, they must have a shelter in place that gives protection from extreme weather conditions with readily available water and food.
  • Regular, but animal-friendly shearing of wool, as the animals do not shed their fur naturally, therefore the establishment of a good human-animal relationship is crucial for the wellbeing of animals, otherwise the shearing process is fear and stress-inducing.
  • Animals should be kept in good health, get parasite treatments and receive veterinary care if needed, with regular inspection of feet as they are prone to foot rot.
  • What to do as a witness of farm animal suffering

here

sheep

Our Work for Farm Animals

Learn More Now

Source: Four Paws

Preview VMX 2026: Inside the World’s Most Comprehensive Veterinary Conference

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VMX

Preview VMX 2026: Inside the World’s Most Comprehensive Veterinary Conference

VMX 2026 Program Now Live: “World Classic – Celebrating the Champions of Care” Offers 1,200 Hours of Continuing Education for Veterinary Professionals

Press Registration Now Open for the Veterinary Industry’s Premier Global Educational Conference

Set to the theme of World Classic – Celebrating the Champions of Care, the North American Veterinary Community (NAVC) launches the program this week for VMX 2026. The world’s largest and most comprehensive educational veterinary conference, and the first veterinary event of the year, VMX 2026 will take place January 17–21 in Orlando, FL and virtually worldwide. VMX 2026 is set to deliver first-class programming that spans veterinary care for species of nearly every kind from around the globe and showcase the latest innovations shaping the industry in the year ahead.

VMX

Building on record-breaking momentum from VMX 2025 — where nearly 30,000 attendees from 87 countries and 712 exhibitors gathered to set a new standard for veterinary education and engagement — VMX 2026 returns with a bold and inspiring theme — World Classic. This year’s program raises the bar for a high-energy, globally minded conference that honors the care, dedication, passion and performance of veterinary professionals.

“Our veterinary professionals embody everything it means to be world-class. Like true champions, they rise to challenges with courage and heart – delivering gold-level care to the animals we love,” said Gene O’Neill, NAVC CEO. “VMX 2026: World Classic will celebrate the passion, precision and perseverance they bring to their work every day. We can’t wait to welcome our veterinary community back to Orlando in January 2026 for our most exciting conference yet.”

Extensive CE Sessions

The VMX 2026 program, which is live this week, features 1,200 hours of CE and hundreds of program tracks happening throughout the five-day event. Veterinary professionals from around the globe can “go for the gold” with world-class continuing education, hands-on workshops, behind-the-scenes tours, masterclasses and unforgettable experiences. Sessions that are open to veterinarians, veterinary nurses/technicians and practice managers span a plethora of topics including: medical breakthroughs, new tools and technologies, best practices for veterinary practices, and more. A snapshot of VMX 2026 sessions includes: 

Small Animal Health

  • Navigating the Teenage Dog: Understanding and Supporting Canine Adolescents
  • You Got To Be Kitten Me: Orthopedic Disease in Cats
  • Anorexia in Small Rodents: It’s Not a Small Problem
  • Flatline to Fibrillation: Managing Arrest Rhythms During CPR            

Large Animal Health

  • Standing Sedation in the Horse: An Anesthesiologist’s Perspective
  • Better Living Through Chemistry When Things Get a Bit Too Western in Livestock
  • Behavior and Welfare Considerations for Managing Impaired Cattle 

Exotic Animal Health

  • Exotic Animal Triage and Common Appointment Presentations
  • Why Did the Turtle Cross the Road: Management of Traumatic Injuries in Chelonians
  • The Packed Cell Volume Is How Low? Importance of Blood Transfusions in Reptiles

Zoo and Aquatic Animal Health

  • Vet Techs to the Rescue: Navigating the Deep End of Aquatic Sedation and Anesthetic Procedures
  • Cheetah Conservation
  • What’s in the Box: Unexpected Rapid Fire Wildlife Cases 

Treating Toxins:

  • Urban Legends in Toxicology: Exploring the Myths and Realities of Potential Toxins in the Veterinary Patient          
  • Poultry Toxins: What They Eat When You’re Not Looking
  • Ingested Toxins in Birds: Polly Ate More Than a Cracker… 

Practice Management:

  • Leveraging AI for Enhanced Efficiency
  • Low-Cost Clinics: Supporting Access to Care in the Real World
  • Trying To Keep Rural Veterinary Practice: A New Perspective on an Old Profession
  • Front Desk, Front Lines: How CSRs Drive Practice Growth and Marketing 

Press Registration Now Open

Credentialed members of the media may attend VMX 2026 for free, either in person or virtually. Journalists will have exclusive access to interview world-renowned veterinary experts, explore the latest innovations in veterinary care, and cover key topics. To register and attend as a member of the press or to schedule one-on-one interviews with the experts about the latest in veterinary medicine, in advance of VMX 2026, please contact publicrelations@navc.com.

Veterinary professionals can secure their spot at VMX 2026 with Early Bird rates now available at $125 per person. This year also marks the return of the NAVC’s exclusive Lion Club registration tier. Launched in 2025 as an innovative, industry-first offering for the veterinary community, the Lion Club registration is designed for those seeking a champion’s experience. This includes premium perks such as priority access to sessions and entertainment, lunch vouchers and elevated experiences throughout the event, including exclusive access to the VIP Lion Club Lounge for the attendee and a guest.

Veterinary and veterinary nurse/technician students, as always, may attend for free. Guest registration is also available. VMX Virtual will also take place. Click here for VMX 2026 registration.

About the NAVC

The North American Veterinary Community (NAVC) is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to supporting and advancing veterinary professionals worldwide. As the world’s leading provider of veterinary continuing education, the NAVC delivers essential training, tools and resources for veterinary professionals to stay abreast of advances in animal medicine and provide the best care for animals everywhere. Through its commitment to innovation and excellence, the NAVC has developed a diverse portfolio of products and services, including: educational events, headlined by VMX (Veterinary Meeting & Expo), the world’s largest, most comprehensive continuing education conference and launchpad for new products and innovations within the veterinary industry; VetFolio.com, a robust digital platform for virtual learning and engagement; NAVC Media, the veterinary industry’s largest and award-winning portfolio of trade publications; and Embrace, an advocacy arm which unites the veterinary community and pet lovers. The NAVC was founded in 1982 and is headquartered in Orlando, FL. Since 2017, the NAVC has been recognized annually as one of the Top Workplaces by the Orlando Sentinel. To learn more about the NAVC’s products and brands, visit https://navc.com/. To see our schedule of upcoming events, visit https://navc.com/calendar/.

Source: North American Veterinary Community

 

Cart Horse Forced to Work Despite Horrific Injuries

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Horse

Cart Horse Forced to Work Despite Horrific Injuries

Cruelty in Plain Sight

In May 2025, the Cape of Good Hope SPCA responded to a shocking cruelty complaint involving a cart pony that had recently survived a dog attack. Despite her visible injuries, the owner continued to force the wounded animal to pull a cart.

Inspector Finds Pony in Agony

SPCA Inspector Jeffrey Mfini was assigned to the case. Upon arrival, he found the pony – later named Maple – in a shocking state. Her front right knee was swollen and bleeding, covered with a makeshift bandage. She had multiple puncture wounds and lacerations from the dog attack, which had taken place just days earlier, and there were visible wounds on her mouth.

Despite her condition, the owner made the conscious decision to harness her up and force her to work. The cruelty was undeniable.

Horse

Immediate Seizure and Emergency Care

Inspector Mfini acted without hesitation. “This pony was being tortured,” he said. “She was bleeding, limping, and clearly in pain – yet she was forced to pull a cart. This is unacceptable.”

Maple was seized immediately and transported to the Cape of Good Hope SPCA, where she received emergency treatment from our Horse Care Unit. She required stitches for several of her injuries and was found to be severely underweight.

Horse

The Law is Clear

In terms of Section 2(1)(i) of the Animals Protection Act 71 of 1962, it is a criminal offence to work an animal that is unfit to do any work. Offenders may face a fine of up to R40,000 and/or 12 months’ imprisonment. A conviction also results in a criminal record.

The SPCA is pursuing criminal charges against the owner and will continue to fight for justice on Maple’s behalf.

A Pattern of Abuse

This is not an isolated case. Since January 2025, the SPCA Horse Care Unit has seized 14 cart horses from situations of abuse and neglect. These animals are often worked to the bone, injured, and denied basic care.

Our message is clear: we will not tolerate the exploitation of working animals. Every case is investigated thoroughly, and where necessary, we will not hesitate to prosecute.

A New Beginning for Maple

Despite the cruelty she endured, Maple’s story ends on a hopeful note. After weeks of veterinary care and rehabilitation, she made a remarkable recovery. Maple has since been adopted by a caring family who have promised her safety, love, and a life free of pain.

For her protection, we will not disclose her new location – but we can confirm she is finally home.

Horse

Thank You for Speaking Up

To the family who gave Maple a second chance – thank you.

To the public – please keep reporting animal cruelty. Your voice can save lives, just as it saved Maple.

Report animal cruelty by calling the SPCA Inspectorate on 021 700 4158/9 or by sending an email to inspectorate@spca-ct.co.za

Source: Cape of Good Hope SPCA 

Paw Licking – May be more than just grooming!

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Paw

Paw Licking – May be more than just grooming!

As with other dog behaviors, there can be several reasons that lead dogs to lick or chew their paws. These include injuries; skin problems; environmental, parasite, or food allergies; and boredom or anxiety.

Occasional paw licking is normal for dogs as a part of their self-grooming process, especially when they come inside after walking on dirty or sandy ground. But if your dog frequently and intensely licks his paws, you can assume that something is wrong.

Injuries

The first step to take, especially if the licking begins very suddenly and is focused on one paw, is to examine the paws to make certain there is not an injury such as a cut, torn nail, growth, or perhaps a stone, thorn, or ice ball stuck between the pads. Look closely at the nails, between the toes and pads, and at the tops of the feet.
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Your dog may have irritated his paw by stepping on something sharp, walking on salted or hot sidewalks, being stung by a bee, or getting a blister. Some of these problems can be relieved by a simple first aid treatment, while others might require treatment by a veterinarian.

Dermatitis

If the paw pads and feet appear normal, the licking could be due to a skin condition (dermatitis), which often is the result of bacterial problems, allergies, or food sensitivities. Your dog could develop dermatitis by being allergic to chemicals used in your yard, deicing products, or certain types of grass or weeds. Keeping a bowl of water and a towel near the door to gently clean off the paws when you come inside could help.

Parasites

Parasite infections such as fleas or mange can cause the paws to be very itchy. Your veterinarian can recommend treatments to eliminate the parasites, which should relieve the itching.

Food AllergiesFood allergies are known to cause itchy paws, and these types of allergies are difficult to pinpoint. Your vet may suggest a special diet or elimination of certain ingredients in your dog’s food to try to alleviate the problem.

Pain
Finally, a dog that is experiencing pain due to arthritis or other foot or leg conditions may lick his paws. Even if the pain is somewhere else in their body, some dogs will try to deal with it by licking a front paw continuously. This requires diagnosis and treatment by a veterinarian.

Behavioral Issues

If you and your veterinarian have ruled out all of the above problems, than your dog may be suffering from boredom or a behavioral problem such as anxiety. Again, this is difficult to diagnose, but there are some steps you can take to help. Some dogs develop compulsive behaviors, which include paw licking.

To alleviate boredom, try taking your dog for more walks, runs, or playtime with you and with other dogs to use up more mental and physical energy. Give him puzzle toys or safe chew toys to take his focus away from his paws.

If you think anxiety, such as fear of noises or separation anxiety, may be causing him to lick his paws, there are a number of ways you can attempt to relieve the anxiety. A good animal behaviorist can suggest a variety of options to try.

Secondary Infections

It’s important to recognize that licking behavior can be indicative of a health problem or may become harmful to the dog. You should work with your veterinarian to determine the cause and find an appropriate solution. Don’t wait too long to do this, because the moisture of constant foot licking can cause a secondary bacterial or yeast infection – causing even more itching, redness, swelling, and licking.
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Meanwhile, depending on the underlying cause of the problem, the veterinarian may relieve your dog’s itching by prescribing topical anti-itch sprays, steroids to reduce inflammation, antibiotics for a bacterial infection, or antifungals for yeast infections. The sooner you can address the problem and illuminate the cause, the better.

Source: Friends of the dog

Pet Emergencies – What can I do?

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Pet Emergencies – What can I do?

The following advice is not meant to replace the role of the veterinarian. However, for animals, we as the owners are generally the first responders to our pets in need. Being prepared for such unforeseen emergencies, will help ease your stress and hopefully help save your pets life.

The aim is to stabilise the pet, relieve pain if possible and provide safe transportation until you reach your vet.

Always remember, the safety of humans takes priority. You cannot help your pet if you put yourself or others in danger.

Stay Safe
Asses the environment and avoid danger or remove possibilities of further injuries.
Eg. if the animal is in the road, get it onto the side of the road immediately.

Animals in pain can be dangerous, even your own dog may want to bite due to being in shock and/or pain. If necessary, restrain the pet with a muzzle, towel or blanket (warm jacket etc) to prevent you being bitten or scratched.

If possible, transport a cat in a box to the vet.

Pet

During Car Accidents – Where you are able to assist
Remove the animal to the side of the road to a shady area, it may require you to drag them if they are large and unable to walk.

Check them to see if they are conscious and breathing (rise and fall of the chest, holding a hand or tissue in front of the nose). Check the eyes & pupils – If the eyes are open and staring with a dilated pupil, the animal will need CPR (IF NO obvious severe evisceration etc is seen).

Perform CPR if no sign of breathing – Remember ABC :  A – Airway /  B – Breathing / C- Circulation (Heart beat)

How to perform CPR in your pet.

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A – Airway;
Ensure the airway is clear, remove any vomit, fluid, foreign body and pull the tongue forward.

B- Breathing;
Perform Nose-to-mouth breathing: Nose-to-mouth resuscitation is administered by first pulling the tongue forward so the tip is just through the teeth and closing the mouth.  Place your hands around the closed mouth sealing it as best you can.  Extend the neck to make a straight line from the nose to the tail and breathe into the animal’s nose.  Small dogs or cats need smaller breaths than large dogs.  After five breaths, re-assess the animal by feeling for a heartbeat and breathing.  If the animal still has a heartbeat but is not breathing, continue with resuscitation at 12 breaths a minute for small dogs and cats and 20 breaths for large dogs.  If the animal doesn’t have a heartbeat, start performing chest compressions

C- Circulation;
Check for a heart beat – Lay the dog on their right side, push the front elbow back to the chest. The spot where the elbow touches the chest is called the inter-costal space and marks where the heart is located. If you don’t see any movement in this area, place your hand over the same location and feel for a heartbeat. If no heartbeat, then start compressions.

Put both hands on the chest with straight arms, and perform cardiac compressions. For the number of compressions, the beat of “staying alive” from the Beegies is ideal.

Lay your hand over the heart (at the inter-costal space) and press firmly enough to compress the chest about one-third to one-half its usual depth. You should aim for 10 – 12 compressions over a five-second span. Repeat these steps at a one breath to 10 – 12 compressions ratio. Because you will be doing more than 100 compressions per minute, a new person should take over compressions after two minutes.

In very large dogs, if a third person is available, also compress the abdomen in large breeds. (If you’re gently compress the front part of the belly or squeeze the dog’s abdomen. Performing these chest compressions can help circulate blood back to the heart. However, it’s most important to focus on the rescue breathing and compressions. Abdominal compressions should be a secondary focus).

In deep chested dogs (eg Bull Dog, Boxer, Boerboel) perform compressions with the dog lying on its back instead of on its side.

Assess the dog
Check periodically to see if the dog has started breathing again – about every two minutes. If not, continue with the artificial respirations until help arrives or you are able to continue CPR while someone drives everyone to the vet.

Recovery Position
If the animal is breathing but still unconscious, lay it on its side with the head and neck slightly extended.  Fold a blanket or towels and place it under the shoulder but not the neck so that the chest is above the head.  This prevents fluids from the mouth going into the lungs.  Keep the pet warm with blankets and transport it as soon as possible to the veterinarian.

Wounds and Bleeding
Approach wounds as you would for a person. Wounds can be anything from a cut, punctures, scrapes or abrasions, to burn wounds.

If excessive bleeding – apply pressure above the wound (between the heart and the wound), cover the wound with a clean cloth or gauze swabs, and bandage until you can reach the vet. Do not remove the initial layers, (this may remove the clot that is forming and cause more bleeding).

Wounds with debri – gently trim excess hair around wound, rinse with running water / saline or flush with a syringe, apply silbecor / anti-septic cream, cover and bandage until you can reach the vet. Paw wounds can be soaked.

Penetration wounds – DO NOT remove any sticks / sharp objects penetrating the chest or abdomen – this may exacerbate internal problems. If necessary, apply dressings around the foreign objects and stabilize the pet and get to the vet as soon as possible.

Grazes and abrasions can be dealt with by trimming the fur around the area, cleaning with water or saline and apply a dressing making sure that it won’t stick to the wound.   

Shock
Knowing your animal is important to distinguish what is not “normal” and gauging how they are doing in a case of emergency.

What is shock? Shock is the body’s way of protecting itself. Recognizing symptoms of shock may save your animals life. There are different reasons for a shocked state, e.g blood loss, being septic due to severe infection, anaphylaxis, extreme pain to name a few obvious examples.

Symptoms will include: weakness (an animal is unable to stand/walk), pale gums (pale pink to white, or bright red to even purple), short shallow breaths, cold legs and paws or having seizures.

Examples that can lead to shock; Car accidents, falling off a height, severe infection (pyometra) or disease (diabetes), weather extremities, seizures, severe bleeding from wounds, burn wounds, knife stab wounds, gun shot wounds (including pellet guns), ruptured stomach ulcers, toxin ingestion for example.

In most cases, manage severe bleeding, keep the animal warm (wrap in a blanket) and try to keep them quiet, continue to talk calmy and gently to them and stroke them softly if they’ll allow. Do not offer food or water, alert the vet you are on the way and transport the animal there immediately.

Poisoning
Obvious signs of poisoning include drooling, vomiting, severe diarrhoea, twitching, tiredness, difficulty breathing and convulsions / seizures, collapsed pet.

Identify the toxin if possible and call your vet for immediate advice, have the following information at hand:

  • How much does your pet weigh?
  • What is the name of the toxin?
  • If the toxin is a medicine:
    • What is the strength?
    • What is the generic name?
    • Is it a special formulation (e.g., extended release)?
  • What is the active ingredient of the toxin?
  • How much do you think your pet ingested?
  • How much could your pet have ingested? (worst-case scenario)
  • How long ago (or what general time frame) did your pet ingest the toxin?
  • Is your pet showing any signs/symptoms?
  • If so, how long have you noticed the signs/symptoms?
  • How old is your pet?
  • Does your pet have any underlying health issues?
  • Is your pet currently on any medications?

It is vital to keep the pet quiet and warm and only act on the vet’s instructions as this will differ depending on the substance that was swallowed.

In the event that an animal has consumed something toxic, and you are aware of this in time, to get them to vomit (inducing emesis) before most of the absorption can take place is the best option. The golden window is within the first 30 minutes of ingestion, but even then, we can only hope for a maximum of 60% of the content to be expelled.

3% hydrogen peroxide has been recommended to use at home in the past, but the latest information has confirmed complications with oesophageal lesions and stomach ulceration, which is why it should be best avoided.

Emesis induction is contraindicated in patients that are symptomatic, have airway disease, have an altered mentation, have already been vomiting, or have ingested a corrosive/caustic agent.

Most common poisonings are due to garden chemicals, rat and snail bait, chocolate, paint or human medications in the home, consuming batteries.

At home remedy: You can attempt to get your dog to vomit by giving it a bolus of a “golf ball size” of non-exothermic washing powder (if you wet the washing power and hold it in your hand, and it does not become warm it is safe to use). If they do not vomit within 5 min, get them to the vet immediately.

Most poisonings will still require veterinary treatment as mentioned we can at best hope for only 40-60% of the toxin being expelled, but if you can prevent the major source of absorption, this can help reduce the long term effects.

If you are not sure if a product is toxic, you can always call your emergency vet for advice.
The American Animal Poisoning Control website and app can be helpful to refer to as well.

Choking
Choking is one of the most stressful emergencies one will experience. This occurs when an object blocks air from interring and leaving the lungs. The foreign object may even be lodged in the oesophagus. Physiological choking may occur due to laryngeal paralysis, anaphylaxis or heat stroke.

Symptoms include a very distressed animal, pawing at the mouth, severe respiratory distress (forceful breathing attempts), blue tongue or gums, gasping / choking sounds, excessive salivation and bulging, large eyes.

If the animal is in extreme distress, and no obvious foreign body can be identified, stay calm and bring that animal to vet as soon as possible.

Alternatively, one can try to remove the object from a choking dog’s windpipe, if it is conscious, open the mouth by grasping the upper jaw with one hand and the lower jaw with the other, tilting the head back slightly.  Pull the tongue to the side and remove the object if possible.  If this isn’t possible, stand behind the dog, put your arms under their belly just in front of the rear limbs and lift their hind legs high off the ground like a wheelbarrow.  Gently shake to see if the object will fall out.  This procedure can be repeated up to 4 times. If the foreign object cannot be dislodged or it is dangerous for you to attempt removing it, contact the vet for advice immediately.

Pet

Cats should be restrained in a towel first. Their mouth can be opened by gently pulling the head upwards and slightly back by placing the thumb and finger on either side of the jaw and the palm across the head. Use the other hand to lower the bottom jaw and remove the object.

See this video and image of the Heimlich manoeuvre in a pet.

Convulsions / Seizures / Fits
Seizures can be a symptom of a problem or a medical condition in your dog. If your dog shows this for the first time, a veterinarian must always be consulted. Causes for these can be due to poisoning, illness, infections and epilepsy.

What does a seizure look like? The animal will become distressed and restless. The first signs usually will be that of excessive drooling, lip smacking, moving into champing jaws / jaw clattering, staring eyes, urination, defecation, collapse, falling over and paddling.

IF you see this, do not approach the animal or try to “remove the tongue from the mouth”. Stay calm and start timing the seizure. Move objects away that may fall on the animal or hurt the animal, and tone done lights and noise (eg. the radio playing).

IF the seizure continues for longer than 5min, roll the animal on a towel or blanket and with the help of someone if it is a large dog, place into the car and take to the vet.

If the seizure is short acting, wait calmly until it is over, contact your vet and take it in for examination. Seizures generally only last for a few seconds, it will always feel longer. Convulsions or ‘fits’ can be quite traumatizing for a pet owner to witness.

Heat Stroke
Heat stroke is when the body’s core temperature rises above normal and due certain factors, they are not able to cool down. This starts a series of events in the body that may lead to complete organ failure and death. This is a very serious condition.

Common causes are from animals exercising in the heat of the day. From a pet being left in a car or area with no shade or ventilation. Brachycephalic dogs and cats are even more predisposed to this due to their restricted airways.

Symptoms are an animal panting excessively with increased breathing noises (from the throat), vomiting, drooling, distress, loss of coordination, collapse and acute death. The animal will also feel very warm by touch.

Should you suspect your pet maybe suffering from heat stroke, remove the animal from the hot environment, start cooling them down with cool to luke warm water. Place a fan on them or drive with the aircon on / windows open. Ice packs covered in a wet towel can be placed between the legs front (auxilla) and back (inguinal).

Transport the animal to the vet as soon as possible.

NEVER immerse the pet or use ice cold water over the body. It will only trap the core temperature due to vasoconstriction and make the heat stroke worse.

Once the pet is comfortable again offer cool water but only in small amounts.  Too much water taken in quickly may cause vomiting.

Bites and Stings
Although knowing what caused the bite or sting is helpful to the veterinarian, never put yourself at risk to try to kill or locate it.

Bee Stings
One of the most common stings that we see. Most bee stings are fortunately not a lethal problem, but may cause allergies.  Most will be stung around the mouth & face, sometimes paw. They can develop fascial swelling, urticaria (lumps and bumps everywhere) and worse case scenario, develop anaphylaxis.

In minor reactions, see if you can find the sting and remove with a sharp knife / bank card by scraping against the angle of sting. Do not struggle with fingers as it will “pump” more venom into the animal.

A cold compress can be applied to the area swelling up, and animal should be taken to the vet.

In the unfortunate event that the animals have been attacked by a swarm of bees, get them to the vet immediately. This is a very serious matter.

Scorpion Stings
Scorpion stings are extremely painful and maybe lethal. Symptoms will range from vocalizing due to unrelenting pain, excessive drooling, tremors, weakness, ataxia, collapse, paralysis and even death.

Anti-venom must be administered and generally the treatment of choice is an induced coma to manage the pain.

Snake Bites
As for snake bites, the treatment of choice is anti-venom administered by your emergency veterinarian.

Stay safe, remove the animal away from the culprit snake if possible and remain calm. Call your emergency vet while on the way. If possible, take a picture / identify the snake.

In South Africa we have 3 types of snake venom – Anti-coagulant (Boom slang), Neurotoxic (eg. Cobra’s) and Cytotoxic ( eg. Puff adder). Boom slang anti-venom must be obtained specifically and fortunately, for the rest we have multi-venom anti-venom vials available in South Africa.

Spider bites
Spider bites are mostly cytotoxic and can cause severe necrotic wounds.

What you can do on the way to vet with in these situations;

Stay calm, and if possible, identify the poisonous animal – take a picture with your phone.

In the case of limbs, initial treatment is to apply a pressure immobilisation bandage. This is done using a crepe or conforming bandage (or panty hose if a bandage is not available) over the bitten area and around the limb. Apply it firmly but not so tight that it stops the blood flow. Bandage down to the paw and then up as far as possible on the limb. A splint can be applied using a rolled-up newspaper or piece of wood with a second bandage. Do not remove the bandages, keep the animal as quiet as possible and transport him to the vet immediately.

Near Drowning
In the event that an animal is found in the pool – Immediately remove the animal, hang upside down to allow for excess fluid to drain from the lungs, neck and mouth.

If non-responsive, check for heart beat and breathing.
If a heartbeat is present start to perform CPR, with the heart beat only perform breathing until animal become responsive. Take to the vet as soon as possible.

Please note whether you have a salt or chlorine pool.

If no heart beat present, full on CPR is required.

CPR on dogs

First Aid for Pets – How to prepare for the unexpected

Source: TEARS Animal Rescue

Protect Your Dog’s Paws from Hot Surfaces in Summer

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Paws

Protect Your Dog’s Paws from Hot Surfaces in Summer

Many owners like taking their dogs on walks, but many of them forget about one important detail: hot surfaces can burn a dog’s paws.

It can be tempting to take your dog everywhere you go, but it can cause serious harm to your dog if you are not careful. Remember that if it feels way too hot for you to leave your hands comfortably on the ground for at least 10 seconds, it can result in severe burns on your dog’s paw pads, especially if you have a new puppy with tender young paws.

Your dog’s paws have footpads that can usually handle whatever a stroll or walk in nature throws at them. But a lot of human-made surfaces can burn your pooch’s paws, including concrete, metal, pavement, sidewalks and asphalt.

Symptoms of burned paws may include:

  • Limping or avoiding walking
  • Licking or chewing feet
  • Paw pads are darker in colour than usual
  • Pads are visibly damaged
  • Blisters or redness

If you suspect your dog has burned paw pads you should:

  • Flush the foot with cold water or use a cold compress
  • Try not to let your dog lick the injured pad
  • Take your dog to the vet as soon as you possible because burns can become infected.

Depending on the severity of the burn, your dog might need antibiotics or pain medication.

Tips to keep your dog or puppy from getting burned this summer:
These tips will help your dog stay safe and uninjured this summer from the dangers of hot surfaces.

Walk your dog in cool temperatures
The best time to walk your dog is in the morning or late evening, when the pavement is cool. Avoid walking your dog in the afternoon when the sun is high in the sky or early evening, because the pavement will be hot.

Walk your dog on the grass
If you end up taking your dog out during the warmer times of the day, be sure to stay on the grass and stick to shady areas. To avoid burning, stay away from sidewalks or any paved areas.

Moisturise your dog’s paws
Minor injuries such as cuts, cracking, or peeling of the paws can make your dog’s paws more susceptible to burns and other serious problems. Moisturising your dog’s feet with a veterinary approved product for your dog on a daily basis, will help prevent these injuries.

Paw wax
Paw wax is designed to protect your dog’s feet from hot surfaces and potentially harmful chemicals like road salts and can easily be smeared onto your dog’s paw pads to protect them from harmful surfaces.

Dog shoes
Not only do these booties look cute, but they are also one of the best ways to protect your dog’s paws from heat and potential injuries. If your dog will wear them, be sure to buy shoes that have rubber soles to offer the best protection. Be aware that not all dogs can get used to dog shoes, and some might have a hard time walking in them. There will definitely be an adjustment period for your dog with dog shoes. If you can get your dog used to using them, nothing else offers better protection. Disposable dog booties are also a great short-term fix for the summer heat. Dog booties can provide good protection from the heat, and are a great temporary solution if you need to take your dog out on a hot day and your dog is willing to wear them.

Peel and stick paw pads
Another solution to minimising heat damage to your dog’s paws in summer are peel and stick paw pads. They are easy to put on and they can be cut to the perfect size for paws and can be reused.

Check their paws regularly
Check your dog’s paw pads daily for any signs of damage and wash his paws frequently. If you do happen to see a problem, or if your dog is acting strangely on his feet, take your dog to your nearest vet for medical assistance.

Source: Cape of Good Hope SPCA