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Diets and Feeding

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Feeding

Diets and Feeding

Although food and feeding can be very controversial, and there is no agreement from anyone on ONE correct way – it can be a good idea to add other food to your dog’s diet if possible other than pellets – pellets can be boring and some experts say a modern convenience unnatural diet, leading to many problems. Tinned foods are not recommended. You need to be comfortable and at ease with what you are feeding your dog.

While some dogs manage to do alright on commercial food, most dogs and cats suffer from many ailments such as itchy skin, eczema, digestive problems, ear infections, diabetes, teeth and gum disease, smelly breath and dog coat, and serious illnesses such as diabetes, cancer etc. Please read up and do your own research. Many of us are not told it is the commercial food we are feeding are animals – In the end you may just want to stay with kibbles/pellets as it is the easiest – but that is not a reason to knock the alternative methods.

There is a lot of information on the internet (raw meaty diets or meat and veggie diets etc) and we suggest you do some research for yourself, or a vet who is open minded about alternative feeding. Many dogs have allergies and some do not do well with pellets as can be allergic to the grain or other ingredients in commercial pet food. (Even rice can be an allergen.) Pilchards, Raw ostrich mince, very lightly cooked (pink inside) chicken chunks, raw stinky tripe can all be fed with hot water poured over and with some cooked veggies or some pellets if you prefer. Liver is good but small amounts not more than 3 times a week.

Big RAW chunky meaty bones are very good. Bones should always be RAW please and not cooked from a braai or the long shank bones of lamb – these are very hard and can splinter and chip dog’s teeth. The bones from the hip and knee joints of large animals are good gnawing chewing bones. Raw pink bones are also fine when feeding them the chicken chunks. Dogs love to rip and tear – you do not need to cut up chunks into small bits. Do remember that dogs up until 60 years ago ate this way and dogs in the wild eat only raw meat, tripe from animals innards and the half digested stomach veggie contents.

What is important for a dog’s coat are omega 3 oils which are found in fish and fish oil available in health food shops. Please do not buy these oils in pharmacies – they are not the correct oils. A good make is The Real Thing fish oil. If you can find good quality cod liver oil in health shops a SMALL amount in the diet is also good. Alternatively please feed your dog pilchards, even if canned (make sure not mixed with GMO corn and soya – these are not good additives). Rinse off the tomato sauce in canned pilchards if plain is not available. Sometimes the best canned fish is found in the cat food area of your supermarket. Dose of oil can be about 2-5 tsp every few days (depending on size). Commercial pellets DO NOT contain digestible omega 3 oils. Vegetable oils are not sufficient for a dog, and flax seed oil is not recommended.

THIS IS GENERAL RESEARCHED INFORMATION – HAWS TAKES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE APPLICATION THEREOF.

Source: Hermanus Animal Welfare

How to Introduce Kids to Your Adopted Dog

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Kids

How to Introduce Kids to Your Adopted Dog

Hopefully your children and any other family member, who will have daily contact to your new dog has met the dog at the shelter and spent a little time with him or her getting acquainted.

Your children will naturally be very excited about getting a dog but it is very important that your dog is not crowded by your children or forced to interact with them when he arrives at home. Give him a chance to quietly investigate his new surroundings and let his excitement wear off a bit.

Allow the dog to explore the garden at his own pace and make sure that your children just let him be. A new game or toy might help them to keep their excitement under control. You could also bring him home while your children are at school or away.

Once Fluffy has investigated the area and seems more settled, give your children some nice small doggy treats. Allow them to call the dog and offer him the treats on a flat hand when he comes to them. Is the dog very shy throw the treats at his feet first to break the ice. A dog used to children might initiate contact. Praise and treat.

For the first two weeks ask your children to let the dog approach them rather than the other way around. Teach them not to go to him if he does not want to come to them. This will give him the time and space he needs to settle in and build up his confidence with them.

It’s a good idea to have an area of the house and/or garden that is the dog’s “den” where the children are not allowed to go.

Teach your children some important principles and make sure that all visiting kids comply as well.

To be safe DO NOT LEAVE CHILDREN AND DOGS UNSUPERVISED AT ANY TIME

A dog is not a toy. Give your child guidance when handling or picking up a dog.
Never allow a child to tease or torment any dog or puppy.

Dogs often do not like to be hugged, cuddled or picked up. You will have to find out gradually if your new dog accepts this.

Teach your children never to approach a dog whilst he is eating, sleeping or chewing on a bone / toy. Allocate a space to your dog where he can have some peace and teach your children not to disturb the dog there.

Ask them not to take toys (even things he might have stolen from them) away from him. Teach your dog a “drop it” command. Until then it’s up to the adults to retrieve the article, for example by swopping the stolen object with a treat or something he is allowed to have.

Avoid tugging games unless all family members can stop the game and safely take the toy away from the dog. Do not allow the dog to chase your children. Ball games are a much better option.

Teach your children to stroke a dog under the chin and throat or on his side rather than patting his head. Kids may stroke the dog once it is calm (sitting or standing). Ask the kids to stand slightly to the side and slowly stroke the chest. Stay away from the muzzle. Explain to them that the dog will be much calmer if it can see their hand and that if they try to stroke the top of his head or the back of his neck he will naturally look up to see where their hand has gone.

Explain to your children that they should not make direct eye contact with dogs or stare at them as they might misinterpret this as threatening.

Teach your children to immediately stop any interaction with any dog and slowly back away should he ever growl at them. No screaming, no fast movements.Children should be taught to “be a tree” or “be a hedgehog” if afraid of any dog.

Do not punish your dog for growling at your children. See it as his way of expressing himself and showing that he is uncomfortable with what is happening. Punishing him for growling might teach your dog not to give any warning signs before he bites.

If you are unsure please contact the shelter for further advice and help. Rather be safe.

Look out for signs from your dog that could indicate uneasiness or anxiety e.g. turning the head away, averting the gaze, lip licking, yawning, sitting down – sometimes with his back turned towards you, ears held back, sniffing the ground, tail tugged between the legs…

Remember that high pitched squeals of excited children and running can upset a dog unfamiliar to kids or could trigger a chase response. Dogs with strong herding instincts might nip at the ankles. Be ready to step in and calm down the situation before things get out of hand.

As your dog settles in and gets confident with everybody, involve your children in your daily routines with your dog, e.g. grooming, training, feeding…

A dog can be a wonderful addition to any family.

Enjoy your new family dog and enjoy watching your children having fun with their new friend.

Source: Hermanus Animal Welfare

Your Dog’s Basic Needs

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Dog

Your Dog’s Basic Needs

Water
Ensure that all your animals have unlimited access to fresh, clean drinking water at all times. Keep water bowls out of the sun and clean them regularly.

Food
Depending on his age and breed the nutritional requirements of your dog will differ. You can divide the daily rations into 2 parts and feed morning and evenings. Puppies require 4 feeds a day, reducing this as they mature. Do not keep your dog too hungry or too slim – this can increase aggression in some breeds, and behaviour problems. Treat your dog as an individual, not strictly according to amounts on food bags – if your dog exercises a lot, he will require more. If you have any questions please consult your vet. Be aware that some foods we humans enjoy can have disastrous consequences for your pet. (See section on poisonous foods). What type of food to give your dog is also quite controversial with many schools of thought – pellets versus home made meals. We suggest you research this area yourself well. More discussed on this later. Further information on diets and feeding is on this site.

Things to chew on
Dogs love and need to chew. Provide your puppy or dog with appropriate chews or he will find something you would rather keep “un-chewed”. Cow hooves, dry pig ears, rawhide chews, kong toys stuffed with food or big meaty raw beef bones are all suitable(joints please not the long bones) Please remove chews that have become too small and can be swallowed. Try and establish where the chew are made – imported chews are often made in China with dubious ingredients…..get local.

Access to green grass
Dogs often eat grass as a digestive aid and will chew on and then vomit up again. This is natural.

Shelter
Ensure that your pet has access to appropriate, comfortable shelter to protect him against heat, cold and rain at all times. Clean out kennel periodically and wash bedding every few weeks. Keep your dog’s sleeping quarters and bedding clean and free of parasites .Air bedding in the sun often and you can dust with diatomaceous earth for parasites. See below under parasites.

Companionship
Dogs are highly social animals, who need social interaction with your family and other dogs. They thrive on your attention. Please do not sentence your dog to a lonely life in your backyard or on a chain. A dog needs to be part of the family and even an outdoor dog benefits greatly from some time indoors.

Exercise
Dogs need mental stimulation and daily physical exercise to maintain their well-being. Games can be a great source of exercise and fun for both you and your dog. If you are unable to take long walks, just a daily walk around the block at least gives your dog mental stimulation to another world outside – let him sniff along the way as much as needed. These daily outside excursions are very important if your dog is unable to see outside – have at least one gate or opening where your dog can check what is happening outside – this is important for their mental health.

Training
Please teach your dog good manners. Only a dog that has been taught how to behave is a free dog – free to accompany you and be part of your life. Decide as soon as you get your new puppy or adult dog what is acceptable behaviour for you in your circumstances and teach your pet what you expect of him. In a nutshell, shape desired behaviour through reward and encouragement and ignore bad behaviour. Distract your dog if he engages in things you do not want him to do and get him to perform an easy command for you for which he can be rewarded. If you get a puppy it is absolutely essential to enroll him into a good puppy class, where he can be properly socialized and prepared for all the things he will encounter in his future as a family pet. Note that puppy classes are not training classes and after socialising it will be necessary to go onto training for dog discipline! See contacts elsewhere on this website.

Boundaries
Dogs need boundaries and is up to you to set and maintain them.

Vaccination and veterinary care
Especially puppies need vaccinations to keep them safe from possibly fatal diseases. Speak to your vet about a suitable vaccination schedule.

Sterilization
All dogs and cats should be sterilized before they have a chance to have a litter. Please play your part in helping us reduce the huge number of unwanted animals. Be aware that It is also illegal to breed your dog unless you are a registered breeder. Please acquaint yourself with the new municipal bylaws in your area. They have been upgraded and are quite strict now.

Protection against internal and external parasites
Use suitable products against ticks and fleas and follow a deworming schedule as recommended by your vet. Be aware of the risk of serious illnesses caused by ticks and consult your vet immediately if your dog goes off his food. Another tell tale sign for biliary (tick bite fever) are pale gums and lack of visible bloodvessels on the eye balls.

Shampoo with Ultrum plus from a vet
There is the herb pyrethrum in this which kills fleas – try and keep the shampoo on for 10 min.. There are other herb shampoos that are flea repellent.

Identification
Please make sure that your dog wears a collar with your contact details. Collars should fit in such a way that you can fit three fingers between the collar and your dog’s neck. Adjust collars as your dog grows. A microchip is a great way to identify your animal permanently and makes the job to reunite you with your pet so much easier. A microchip the size of a grain of rice is injected into your dog’s neck and can be read via a scanner at nearly all vets and animal welfares.

Protection against harm
Keep your pet out of harm’s way and make sure they are safe even if you are on holiday. A dog should be kept in an enclosed garden AND BE ABLE TO SEE OUTSIDE for his mental health. Please arrange an opening if you have a solid wall with no view for your pet!! They will dig less!! Also See house sitters below.

Source: Hermanus Animal Welfare

 

How to stop dogs from jumping up?

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dog

How to stop dogs from jumping up?

Jumping up enthusiastically is part of normal canine behaviour. It has its roots in puppy greeting behaviour which involves licking the muzzle of returning adults. For a weaned wolf puppy it is essential and normal to beg for food by jumping up and licking the adult’s mouth to stimulate it to regurgitate food. In adulthood and domestic dogs jumping up becomes a normal greeting and appeasement ritual. Dogs consider it a compliment – we consider it a nuisance, especially in adult dogs.

In all likelihood it is also a behaviour you have reinforced (rewarded) when your dog was still a puppy. Tail wagging, jumping puppies are just irresistible. How great must your dog’s confusion be when he grows up and suddenly you punish him for something that comes naturally to him and he was praised and cuddled for all along. He was never really taught not to jump on you, was he??

So, let’s teach Fluffy to stop jumping.

In a nutshell you have to make jumping up unrewarding and teach him an alternative way to greet you, which is rewarded.

While retraining your dog try to avoid the situations in which he normally jumps up. Use a leash or his collar to stop him from jumping on visitors and yourself. Alternatively ignore the jumping up and turn your back, don’t speak to him (no, not even to shout at him!!), don’t touch him. It is important that all family members stop to acknowledge the dog if he jumps.

Cool your greeting ritual. On returning home, walk past your dog, ignore him for a little while and then call him to greet him calmly. If he is not too hyper kneel down so he does not need to jump up.

Praise and greet only while all four paws are on the ground.

  • Teach an acceptable behaviour that is incompatible with jumping up like a sit or down stay (your choice).Get a nice treat, hold it in your hand but don’t give it to your dog. Don’t give any command; just patiently wait until your dog shows the behaviour you want. Praise and treat immediately.
  • Take a step away from your dog and repeat the process until Fluffy sits / downs reliably and immediately after each step you take. Don’t make your training sessions too long (5-10 min), rather practice a few times a day, as you can. Always stop on a high note and while your dog is still eager to work. Steadily increase the length of the sit before you give the treat.
  • Practice in different locations, especially close to the gate / doorways where your dog normally gets to greet you and your visitors. Slowly raise the stakes but only increase one criteria in each training session. So, if you decide to increase the time Fluffy needs to sit before he gets rewarded, do not change the location where you practice as well.Once your dog reliably sits or downs you can introduce a verbal cue or command.
  • When Fluffy’s sit stay has become fairly reliable it is time to practice with willing friends. Armed with treats ask them to ring the bell or come to the gate and only greet and reward Fluffy if all his paws are on the floor.
  • Teach your dog a “too bad” – a signal that informs him that he just lost a treat / his reward.  Once your dog understands this signal it can help you a lot to stop unwanted behaviours, as dogs learn quickly to abandon behaviour that does not pay.
  • Get your dog to sit. Hold a very tasty treat about 30 cm away from him on nose level. (His nose – not yours.) As soon as he moves towards the treat (and he will) simply say “Too bad!!” (or “No” or “AAH AAH” – or whatever word you want to use as your no reward signal) and snatch the treat away. Get him back into a sit and repeat. If your timing is good Fluffy will soon decide to change his strategy and offer another behaviour. If he stays and simply stares at the treat reward/ reinforce immediately.
  • Repeat the whole process several times to establish your “too bad” signal or practice sit-stays. To raise the stakes change your position, change the type of treat, put the treat on the floor (but make sure you can get to it first in case your dog makes a mistake) etc… Again, don’t make a training session too long and stop while Fluffy is still keen to go on.  Use these two steps consistently.  Praise and reward acceptable behaviour every time and inform your dog about his mistakes with your no reward signal as soon as he jumps up on you. In that case turn away and walk away and leave him for a minute or two.
  • Give your dog an appropriate outlet for all his energy.  Daily walks – off-leash if possible Play sessions with other friendly dogs.  Retrieve games.  Hide and seek.  Recall practice with 2-5 people.
  • Stand opposite each other or in a circle and take turns calling the dog. Reward enthusiastically when he comes to the right person.
    • Chase – Teach your dog that a certain cue e.g. “I am gonna catch you” will start the game of you chasing after him.
    • Tug-of-war – Played with rules tug-of-war is a great energy burner and good exercise for yourself and your dog. Please teach your dog the rules and stick to them.  The dog lets go of the tugging toy or rope immediately when told to.

dog

  • Give your command to let go and swop the toy with a nice treat.
  • Give your cue to retake the rope and start tugging again.
  • Practice these exchanges before your dog gets really excited with some slow-motion,calm tugging.
  • Once the dog releases the toy on command put the treats out of sight.
  • He only retakes the rope when invited to do so.
  • Get one specific toy for your tug-of-war and stick to that toy.
  • The game starts only with that toy and on your cue e.g. “Take the rope”.
  • Should Fluffy grab the toy uninvited, tell him “too bad” and interrupt the game for a short while before you start again.
  • Do not tolerate accidents
  • During the heat of the game dogs will sometimes make contact with your hand by mistake. Screech “OUCH!!!” and immediately stop the game. Fluffy is very capable of controlling his teeth and you can use this as a reminder to keep them off people at all times.
  • Other than that let Fluffy be as excited as he wants to. Let him tug, shake and growl to his heart’s content.
  • Tug-of-war makes a great reward during obedience exercises as well.

Should you encounter any problems or have any questions please contact:

  • Hermanus Animal Welfare Society : 028 312 1281
  • Janine (Trainer-Touch therapist-Puppy classes) – 082 490 1650
  • Naomi (animal communicator) – 083 226 3526

Source: Hermanus Animal Welfare

Guidelines on adopting a new cat or kitten

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cat

Guidelines on adopting a new cat or kitten

  • Keep in mind the expense involved in introducing a pet to the household: food, vet fees if the cat gets ill or needs vaccinations, kennelling if you go on holiday, etc.
  • Make sure your house is safe and secure, especially if you want to adopt a kitten. Look at things that can be knocked over or things that could hurt a cat and adjust those.
  • Prepare a quiet place where your cat can feel secure while adjusting to its new home, such as a spare bedroom. Provide bowls for food and water, a place to sleep, a litter box, a scratch post and some toys
  • Use a secure carrier to take your cat home in and don’t let it out until it is in its safe room. It is all too easy for a frightened cat to escape and you will then probably never find it
  • Keep your cat in its quiet room for at least a few days (in the case of scared cats it may take longer) before gradually introducing it to the rest of the house. Do not get impatient or angry if it is scared – be gentle with it. Only once it is completely familiar with the house and has been with you for at least two weeks, let it go outside while you are present.
  • Keep it separate from any other cats/dogs in your household for about a week and then let them get to know each other while you are around. There may be hisses initially, but ignore them. The animals will eventually sort out their own status.
  • Be aware that your cat needs to be groomed regularly, especially if it has longish hair. Cats do not like and do not need to be bathed, but benefit from regular brushing.
  • Young children may unwittingly hurt or frighten your new pet. Teach them how to be gentle and caring. Never hit a cat.
  • Always pick your cat up with both hands – one to support the hind legs.

Source: Hermanus Animal Welfare