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Do Cats Like to Be Petted?

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Do Cats Like to Be Petted?

A few years ago, the journal Frontiers in Psychology confirmed what pet parents already knew: that positive interaction with animals reduces stress in humans. This is great news for your health and longevity, but if you have a cat, you may wonder if the feeling is mutual. Do cats like to be petted? Do cats like to be held as much as we like to hold them?

If you do it correctly, the answer is yes. Many cats, despite the common and persistent myth that they are aloof, welcome affection from their people. In fact, petting and holding your cat helps build a loving relationship between the two of you.

Approaches to Petting
Petting your cat can be a tricky business. It’s easy to misread a kitty’s signals and end up touching them the wrong way or in a spot where they don’t like to be touched.

Do Cats Like to Be Petted?

Let’s say, for example, they roll around on the floor and expose their tummy. This is their way of showing that they trust you. If you try to rub your cat’s angelic belly fluff, however, they will probably respond with a scratch or a bite. You may think (with good reason) that your cat hates you, or that it’s their way of telling you they don’t want to be petted at all. In reality, they are telling you that they just don’t want you to pet them right there, right now. Some cats do love a good belly rub, explains Petful, but you have to approach it with finesse, and only when they’re calm and relaxed.

In 2013, a study from the journal Physiology & Behaviour was widely misrepresented as proof that petting cats stresses them out. John Bradshaw, director of the Anthropology Institute at the University of Bristol, England reassures National Geographic that it was something in the cats’ lives and not the act of petting that contributed to the animal’s anxiety. (The experiment actually looked at how cats that live alone experience stress differently from those in multi-cat households.) Petting can comfort your kitty, so go ahead and snuggle up.

Head, Shoulders, Cheeks and Nose
So, in which places do cats like to be petted? The head, chin and neck are often their favourites. While some cats enjoy having their tails touched, others will recoil and even experience pain from a tail stroke. Take it slowly, paying close attention to your cat’s reactions to your touch and always respecting their preferences.

When approaching your kitty, the most important trick is to allow them to take the lead, Animal Planet’s Jackson Galaxy tells Petcha. Let your cat sniff your index finger and touch their nose against it first. If they want to cuddle, they’ll push their face against your hand and direct you to their ears, chin, or wherever they want to be petted. Going slowly will create a more relaxed, warm-hearted environment. If they start nudging you with their head or rubbing their cheeks against your body, it’s a good sign, says Tufts University’s Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine. “Bunting” behaviour is how cats transfer the scents in their cheek glands to beloved surroundings and family members.

In addition to being petted, do cats like to be held? Sometimes. Most cats love to snuggle, and they’re typically responsive to being held if you introduce them to it gradually. The best way to approach your cat for a hug is to start with a few soft pets, then carefully pick them up. Be sure to secure all four of their legs so that they don’t dangle. If they feel safe in your arms, they’ll be more inclined to stay there. If they squirm and want to get away, set them down gently and try again later. Learning to snuggle takes baby steps (and occasionally a tasty reward for not mauling your arms on the way down).

Do Cats Like to Be Petted?

Does Breed Matter? What About Age?
Some cat breeds are more receptive to pets and hugs than others. The Siamese, for example, is a playful and fun-loving breed that will demand attention from you, as will the affectionate Ragdoll.

Don’t be alarmed if your cat resists physical attention. It may just be part of their personality or upbringing. If a kitten isn’t socialised with humans at an early age, they may be reluctant to accept affection. They may also need more coaxing if you adopt them as an adult and don’t know their backstory. You can acclimate your kitty using some of the strategies above, but some cats simply don’t enjoy being picked up, preferring to be a nestle-next-to-you cat instead of a lap cat.

Building trust is a gradual process in any relationship. When you invest your love and affection, you’ll be rewarded with a feline best friend (and maybe even a belly rub).

Source: Hills
Writer: Christine O’Brien
Website: www.hillspet.co.za

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Helping wild birds in the best possible way

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HELPING WILD BIRDS IN THE BEST POSSIBLE WAY

Compassionate people are concerned when they find wild animals including birds but are often unsure of how to handle situations.

We have had so many people recently contact us with regards to finding a birds in their gardens. Sometimes wild animals end up around our homes and many people with good intentions try to help them.  There is always a possibility that you might do more harm than good if you don’t know how to handle the situation correctly. Today we will focus on finding birds and give some general guidelines shared by the NSPCA and other wildlife rehabilitation organizations.

Sometimes it is a bird/animal that had a stressful encounter and is now just “catching their breath”, other times they might be injured and lost, or is a baby/fledgling. Unless in immediate danger or injured…….let them be. If it is an adult bird (any animal), they might also have babies nearby, which could die if you remove them.

Don’t BIRDNAP the babies! Many young birds may appear abandoned, but they are probably waiting for mom or learning to fly. The process of fledging begins by jumping out of the nest. It usually takes them 3-4 days to learn how to fly. It is the time when mom teaches them how to fear, forage and fly. We know it is a dangerous world, but this is why it is so crucial to learn these skills from mom. If they look a little scruffy, fully feathered, standing and hopping, they are probably a fledgling.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU FOUND WILDLIFE – IN SHORT

  1. If they are injured, take them to the vet as soon as possible.
  2. If not injured or in immediate danger, let them be and observe.
  3. Before you remove them, first contact a wildlife rehabilitator, local welfare organizations, or SPCA to advise.
  4. Do not give food or water before speaking to a rehabilitator…..that is why you should contact them as soon as possible. You could kill them by giving them something that their body can’t handle at that moment. You can’t feed a dehydrated bird and the public might not be equipped to know how to recognize the symptoms and they might have an internal injury. For dehydration, they might need liquid therapy too.

Don’t feed them even if it is a tiny baby. Forced syringe feeding is usually a struggle for humans and birds. They can also aspirate, so please do this with the guidance of a rehabilitator only. Many people have this notion to feed Weetbix or ProNutro, but we strongly advise against it. There are safer options if you have to and the rehabilitator will advise on it.

Remember that stress is a big killer of rescued wildlife!

SOME POSSIBILITIES might include (first confirm with the right people):

  • To let them be while you look for mom nearby.
  • To put the baby back in the nearby nest if you know it is theirs.
  • To take them in and keep them safe until the right person can fetch them.
  • Get the bird to a wildlife rehabilitator as soon as possible – it will be highly beneficial to the rehabilitators if you keep a record of any injuries you may have noticed when you found the bird as well as any information regarding the treatment of the bird whilst in your care for example whether or not you have given liquids, whether they had any bowel movements, strange behaviour and where you found them.

Image: Johannesburg Wildlife Vet

WHAT TO DO WITH WILDLIFE UNTIL PROFESSIONAL HELP ARRIVES

  • Prepare the container. Place newspaper or straw on the bottom of a cardboard box or container with a lid. Don’t use sawdust as it can interfere with respiration.
  • If it doesn’t have air holes, make enough for good ventilation. For smaller birds, you can use a paper sack with air holes.
  • Protect yourself. Wear gloves, if possible. Some birds may stab with their beaks, slice with their talons (claws) and slap with their wings to protect themselves, even if sick; birds might have parasites (fleas, lice, ticks) and carry diseases.
  • Cover the bird with a light sheet or towel.
  • Gently pick up the bird and put it into the prepared container-do not hold the bird across its chest as this can damage the crop and the internal organs of the bird which will kill it. Keep the bird in a container; don’t let it loose in your house or car.
  • The correct manner of holding a bird is as follows:

Place a hand over the top of the bird very gently with your index finger and middle finger parting in a “V”. The neck of the bird should rest between the arches of the “V” as to stabilize its head and neck. With your other hand support the bottom of the bird and allow its feet to rest comfortably in your hand. Secure the wings of the bird. Do not handle the bird with a tight grip as it just needs to be stable in the above position. Handle firm if enough so they don’t escape and get injured, but gentle enough not to hurt them yourself. Do not handle them unnecessarily.

  • Warm the bird if the weather is cold/wet or if the bird is chilled. Put one end of the container on a heating pad set on low. Alternatively fill a zip-top plastic bag, plastic soft drink bottle with a screw lid, hot water bottle, or rubber glove with hot water; wrap a warm container with a cloth and put it next to the bird. Make sure the container doesn’t leak, or the bird will become wet and chilled.
  • If the bird is soaking wet and only if the rehabilitator advised so, use a hair dryer on LOW / medium warmth to dry the bird. Very important: Keep one hand between the bird and the hairdryer so you can feel the heat. Make sure you do not burn the bird. Ensure there is not a massive build-up of heat in the box while drying. As soon as their feathers are fluffed and the bird is warm, leave it to cool down to room temperature in a quiet area.
  • Tape the box shut or roll the top of the bag closed. Obviously not the air holes.
  • Keep the bird in a warm, dark, quiet place. Leave the bird alone, don’t bother or handle it. It is stressful for wild animals to be kept in a noisy environment where there are lots of unfamiliar or predator smells and stress is the biggest killer of rescued birds. Keep children and pets away.
  • Again, do not give them food or water.
  • Contact a wildlife rehabilitator, the SPCA, nature conservation department, or wildlife veterinarian as soon as possible.
  • Don’t keep the bird at your home longer than is necessary.
  • It would be prudent to leave the bird in the box undisturbed for the evening if it is found late afternoon, unless you’ve picked up an owl, in which case, release them as soon as it is dry so it can hunt, if not injured. Release the animal where you found it, as early in the morning as possible. They start chirping from 4.30 am in the summer months but 5.30 / 6 am would be fine too. Make sure dogs or cats cannot get to them while they are in the box getting their bearings before taking off.
  • If you did put water in a small accessible container, make sure the water is not bumped over and the bird then goes without water. Again, this is after you confirmed with a rehabilitator.
  • Wash your hands after contact with the bird. Wash anything the bird was in contact with – towel, jacket, blanket, carrier to prevent the spread of diseases and/or parasites to you or your pets.
  • If there have been heavy rains or other extreme weather, please take a few extra minutes and check gardens for wildlife that may be drenched and not able to fly.

What happens to the bird afterward?  Wild birds need to go back to the wild.  If injured, they will need professional help from rehabilitators. It is important to remember that rehabilitators will evaluate each situation individually.  Although the above are general guidelines please ALWAYS contact a rehabilitator first.

BIRD OF PREY

If you found a young bird of prey alone and they appear to not be injured, watch from a distance to see if mom returns. If you can approach the bird, they are likely very sick or seriously injured.  If this is the case, follow the above guidelines and contact the vet or rescue organization.

  • Do NOT use a wire cage/cat cage or something similar.
  • Make note of where the bird was found.
  • Do NOT attempt to feed the bird or provide water.
  • As above, if it is an owl and not injured, release them at night and don’t keep them for the evening.

GEESE

Common to many areas this time of year, the Egyptian goose population is one of the few on the increase. Egyptian geese lead their goslings to water a few days after hatching, often along busy streets.

“Unlike some of our local wildlife whose existence is being severely threatened by human development and urbanization, our ever-expanding cities and suburbs are proving an ideal breeding site for Egyptian geese. In addition to a warm climate, Egyptian geese look for access to a freshwater source and an area with plentiful food. So, be it your swimming pool, an eco-estate or a golf course, our Egyptian geese are currently spoilt for choice when it comes to sites to rear their young,” says CROW director, Paul Hoyte.

Hoyte suggests leaving the geese be, if they take up residence in gardens, except where there is a danger of attacks from pets. In these cases, he appeals to people to assist them with safe capture.

If you find them in the street, DO NOT “rescue” the goslings or any other little ones by separating them from their parents. You can rather escort the family through the traffic to the nearest pond.

“The biggest problem we have is that to give the goslings the best chance of survival, we need to catch mom and dad too. Herein lies the problem, as they simply fly away as soon as we arrive with our catch and throw nets. Thankfully, what we have been finding as a huge help, is if the homeowner is prepared to lend us a helping hand by getting the family into any enclosed area such as a garage or shed before we arrive”.

“This is relatively easy to do with a washing or laundry basket. Gently scoop up each of the goslings and place them in the basket. Then, with mom and dad watching you, take the goslings and place the basket in your open garage or shed. Soon enough, mom and dad will make their way into the room to be close to their babies. As soon as they’re in, close the door and contact your local rescue to come and catch them.”

Remember: Never feed any ducks or geese bread!

Image by Yvette from SDS Services & Training Academy. Adorable goslings taken to nearby water in Secunda, with mom following.

WILDLIFE AND THE SPCA

It is important to understand that it is against the law to keep wild mammals/birds if you don’t have permits, even if you plan to release them. The SPCA is a place of safety for animals, dogs and cats being the most commonly handled or admitted animals and no animal is ever turned away. They care for farm and domestic animals. Wildlife is also accepted with indigenous animals being relocated to approved wildlife rehabilitation centers.

  • Highveld Ridge SPCA injured stray animals or wildlife: (082) 222 1122 /  (082) 869 2350 (Advice)
  • Bethal SPCA injured animals: (072) 573 3122 / (066) 397 1630 (Advice)

For more advice or if you are unsure of anything contact the South African Wildlife and Rehabilitation centre rescuers.

  • Judy: (073) 112 1131
  • Leanne: (082) 852 2510
  • Lauren: (082) 873 8235
  • Dirk: (071) 755 3791
  • Stefan: (079) 771 7125 (in Secunda)

Birds in TEKS area:

  • Shy: (083) 653 9755
  • Willie: (079) 046 1001

Please be patient when asking for assistance as these rescuers do not only deal with your situation that day. Thank you for caring enough to help. Educate yourself and others on how to help wild and domestic animals in the best possible and safest way. Please consider donating to the organization that assists or takes the animal in.

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin
Website: www.thebulletin.co.za

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You need to make time to learn about your pets and their needs!

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You need to make time to learn about your pets and their needs!

Image: Pixabay

Education is KEY to helping animals and their owners and for changing animal welfare in the world!
Sadly, most people don’t spend nearly enough time educating themselves on how to improve their pets’ lives or how to help other animals or animal welfare organizations.

Since many are still enjoying the holidays, here is a reminder on how to prioritize SAFETY for your pets during the holidays. Many people are already on holiday and others are getting ready.  Whether you are staying home or going away, remember that the busy holidays and travelling can be stressful and cause anxiety for your pets and their safety is your responsibility.

MICROCHIP YOU PETS – Before you do anything, I suggest you make sure your pets are microchipped, the microchip is registered on multiple databases and is in working order. 

ESCAPE PROOF YOUR YARD – If you are away and you are leaving your pets behind with a responsible pet sitter, you still need to make sure your yard is extra secure.  There are constantly pets in the streets and this holds many dangers in a cruel world. We understand that accidents happen and some animals are really escape artists, but one of a few reasons why animals get out is because IT IS EASY! You get climbers, runners, jumpers, diggers, chewers, some learn to open gates or some pets use a combination of the above.

TRAVEL WITH PETS – Travelling with your animal family members can create wonderful memories, but it’s not always easy. Make sure you’re well-prepared before you hit the road. There are many things to consider before you take your pet on a road trip, including the temperament, size & safety of your pet.

EASTER PET HAZARDS (by Dr. Karen Becker)

EASTER is around the corner and with Easter comes family gatherings, chocolate, Easter egg hunts and gifts. Please don’t use this occasion to give your children chicks and rabbits just because they asked for them and think that they look “cute.” Pet ownership is a huge commitment and responsibility and it’s not something that should be done on impulse. In addition, Easter, like every holiday, involves potential hazards for your pets, that every pet parent should be aware of, so make sure your pets avoid Easter goodies and decorations to avoid unexpected heartaches.

YOUR PETS CAN BE HEALTHIER AND HAPPIER IN 2023! HERE ARE OUR PAWSOME PET NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTIONS……IF YOU MISSED IT!

A new year brings new goals, renewed hope and 365 days of opportunity for you and your pet to bond, develop healthier habits and discover new ways to live a full life. An important first step is to avoid becoming overwhelmed thinking you need to make big changes overnight. The important thing is to make a plan and move steadily forward.

Image by The Paw Company

Included in your pet new years resolutions should be regular HEALTH CHECKS. Our pets might get sick or injured and need veterinary care, but we can also add many tools to our toolbox, like health checks at home, to help prevent conditions from occurring in the first place or manage them better to allow our pets to live long and happy lives. Being informed and understanding what illnesses and conditions our pets might face is key to longevity. It is important to do regular health checks on your pets by inspecting their body from head to toe every week and making notes. 

Between vet visits, you can keep a close eye on your pet’s health by conducting an at-home physical exam. Physical “inspection” touch with some positive re-enforcement on a regular basis can also help make vet visits more comfortable.

HEALTH CHECK-LIST

  • Behaviour
  • Body condition
  • Skin & coat
  • Eyes & ears
  • Nails & paws
  • Nose & mouth
  • Stool check
  • Vitals (heart rate, breathing, body temperature etc.)
  • Weigh your pet and review their diet

ARE YOU HELPING YOUR PET COPE DURING STORMY WEATHER?
There is always an increase in lost and injured pets after stormy weather or fireworks. In many cases, it is the same animals that are out in the streets and it is PREVENTABLE! Creating an environment that is free from fear and distress is essential for their well-being. Not only is it important to provide them with the necessary physical comforts and to ensure that their mental health is taken into consideration, it is your moral duty.

Noise phobia is a reality and many cats, dogs and other animals can suffer from it.  The good news is that you can do something about it if you care enough for those animals. I understand that we can’t control the weather, but you can do a lot to help them cope better with weather or other noise phobias.

You need to make time to learn about your pets and their needs!

Image by Dr. Karen Becker

DO YOU KNOW WHAT IS NATURAL DOG BEHAVIOUR?
Dogs are social animals and have a wide range of natural behaviours. These behaviours are instinctive and are used to communicate with other dogs and humans. Common natural behaviours in dogs include barking, digging, chasing and chewing. Dogs also display behaviours such as jumping, licking, marking and play-bowing. These behaviours are all natural and help dogs to interact with their environment and with other animals. It is a way to communicate with those who are willing to listen!

What may look like naughty behaviour to you is often just your pet behaving as their species do. There can also be breed-specific traits which are not their fault, like Terriers that dig and will likely always dig!Do you want to better understand your dog and improve your relationship?  Then learn about their behaviour.  When you know what is natural behaviour you can easily know which “naughty” behaviour to address. One of the five freedoms of animal welfare includes the freedom to express natural behaviours! Read more about some natural behaviours here.

Aggressive behaviour is probably the most common behavioural problem in dogs seen by behaviour professionals and the most dangerous one seen in companion dogs.  Many behaviours that people perceive as aggressive are actually normal forms of communication. Behaviour is a common reasons why people surrender animals, especially dogs to shelters and aggression is one of them. The lack of understanding of basic and normal animal behaviour remains part of the problem!

DID YOU PICK THE RIGHT ANIMAL FOR YOUR FAMILY WHEN YOU LOOK AT ENERGY LEVELS?
Dogs, just like people have unique personalities and energy levels (mentally & physically) and it can affect the way your dog responds to you. Dogs that have a lot more energy than their humans often don’t get enough exercise. This is why it’s very important to know your energy level, understand how to determine the dog/pet’s energy level and then choose the right fit for your family taken into account your lifestyle routines too.

Dogtime shares how high-energy dogs are those who are always ready and waiting for action. Originally bred to perform a canine job of some sort, such as a retrieving game for hunters or herding livestock, they have the stamina to put in a full workday. Low-energy dogs on the other hand are the canine equivalent of a human couch potato, content to doze the day away.

Energy levels matter because if you can’t meet that animals’ needs, then it will cause frustration for you and in return the animal pays a price too.

CAN YOU READ YOUR DOG’S BODY LANGUAGE FROM HEAD TO TAIL?
Most animals use body language as well as sound and smell to communicate with one another.  Body language is the movements of animals’ including facial expressions, eye behaviour, posture, and the movement of their body parts and is inherent in all creatures including humans. When we understand body language, we can better understand our pets and meet their needs which will deepen our relationship. Dog bites and fights can also be prevented by better understanding and predicting behaviour.

You need to make time to learn about your pets and their needs!

Image: Pixabay

Many people think that it is easy to ‘read’ their dog, but there are so many subtle signs that are missed. Decoding your pet or another pet’s body language is not as straightforward as looking at a tail wag or the ears. For one, many of these gestures happen at once and context is important too. On top of that, a breeds’ physical appearance can make it even more difficult.

Your pets are your responsibility. You need to know how to meet their needs and give them the best possible life. If you can no longer care for them, please surrender them to the SPCA or a reputable animal welfare organization. If you can’t afford to properly care for them or have the time to meet their needs, then don’t get them.

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin

Understanding Feather Plucking in Birds: Causes and Solutions

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Feather

Understanding Feather Plucking in Birds: Causes and Solutions

The Puzzling Behavior of Feather Plucking

Feather plucking in birds is a behavior that often puzzles and concerns pet owners. This habit, where a bird repeatedly plucks or tears out its feathers, can lead to noticeable bald spots and sometimes skin injuries. Understanding the underlying causes and effective treatments is crucial in helping our feathered friends.

Unbalanced Diet: The Biggest Culprit

One of the most common causes of feather plucking is an unbalanced diet. Birds require various nutrients for health maintenance, and a lack in essential vitamins, minerals, and amino acids can lead to poor feather quality and a weakened immune system. This can trigger a bird to start plucking its feathers. A well-balanced diet, such as Nature’s Nest bird food, can provide the necessary range of nutrients, leading to improved feather health and reduced feather plucking.

Nature’s Nest: Nutritional Balance Solution

Nature’s Nest addresses dietary deficiencies by offering a comprehensive range of essential nutrients. High-quality proteins, fats, vitamins, and minerals in Nature’s Nest support feather growth and overall well-being, making it an excellent choice for birds prone to feather plucking due to dietary imbalances.

Environmental Stress and Recommendations

Birds are sensitive to their environment. Changes in their living conditions, such as loud noises, lack of stimulation, or changes in routine, can lead to stress-induced feather plucking. To mitigate this:

  1. Create a Calm Environment: Ensure the bird’s habitat is away from loud noises and disturbances.
  2. Regular Routine: Establish and maintain a consistent daily routine to provide a sense of security.
  3. Appropriate Cage Size: Provide a spacious cage to allow for movement and exercise.
  4. Enough Sleep: Best sleep time would be the same time the sun goes down. Ideally a big enough “night cage” with food and water would work best.

Feather

Behavioral Issues and Interventions

Sometimes, feather plucking is a behavioral issue, akin to a habit or a response to boredom. Providing mental and physical stimulation through toys, interaction, and exercise can be beneficial. For birds plucking feathers due to behavioral issues:

  1. Enrichment Toys: Introduce various toys to keep the bird mentally stimulated and engaged.
  2. Interaction and Training: Regular interaction and training sessions help alleviate boredom and foster a bond with the bird.
  3. Regular Exercise: Allowing the bird time outside its cage to explore and play can be beneficial.

Medical Conditions and Treatment

Underlying medical conditions like skin infections, allergies, or hormonal imbalances can also lead to feather plucking. It’s crucial to consult with an avian veterinarian to rule out or treat any medical issues. Try this to mitigate medical conditions:
  1. Veterinary Check-Up: Regular check-ups with an avian veterinarian are essential for early detection and treatment of health issues.
  2. Medication: If diagnosed with a skin infection or other condition, follow the veterinarian’s prescription and treatment plan.
  3. Specialized Diets or Supplements: Based on the vet’s advice, certain supplements or a specialized diet may be necessary.

Psychological Factors and Care

Like humans, birds can suffer from anxiety or depression, which can manifest in behaviors like feather plucking. Creating a supportive and nurturing environment is key to addressing these psychological factors. Addressing psychological factors is also crucial:
  1. Positive Reinforcement: Use positive reinforcement techniques to encourage desired behaviors.
  2. Stress Reduction: Identify and reduce potential stressors in the bird’s environment.
  3. Companionship: Consider providing companionship if suitable, as some birds benefit from social interaction with their own kind. Please seek specialist advice to help you choose the right companion.

Feather

Conclusion: A Comprehensive Approach

Feather plucking in birds requires a comprehensive approach that includes a balanced diet like Nature’s Nest, a conducive environment, mental and physical stimulation, and prompt medical care. By understanding and addressing the varied needs of our feathered companions, we can help them lead healthier and happier lives. All your bird needs is love and Nature’s Nest.

Source: Nature’s Nest

How to stop dogs from jumping up?

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dog

How to stop dogs from jumping up?

Jumping up enthusiastically is part of normal canine behaviour. It has its roots in puppy greeting behaviour which involves licking the muzzle of returning adults. For a weaned wolf puppy it is essential and normal to beg for food by jumping up and licking the adult’s mouth to stimulate it to regurgitate food. In adulthood and domestic dogs jumping up becomes a normal greeting and appeasement ritual. Dogs consider it a compliment – we consider it a nuisance, especially in adult dogs.

In all likelihood it is also a behaviour you have reinforced (rewarded) when your dog was still a puppy. Tail wagging, jumping puppies are just irresistible. How great must your dog’s confusion be when he grows up and suddenly you punish him for something that comes naturally to him and he was praised and cuddled for all along. He was never really taught not to jump on you, was he??

So, let’s teach Fluffy to stop jumping.

In a nutshell you have to make jumping up unrewarding and teach him an alternative way to greet you, which is rewarded.

While retraining your dog try to avoid the situations in which he normally jumps up. Use a leash or his collar to stop him from jumping on visitors and yourself. Alternatively ignore the jumping up and turn your back, don’t speak to him (no, not even to shout at him!!), don’t touch him. It is important that all family members stop to acknowledge the dog if he jumps.

Cool your greeting ritual. On returning home, walk past your dog, ignore him for a little while and then call him to greet him calmly. If he is not too hyper kneel down so he does not need to jump up.

Praise and greet only while all four paws are on the ground.

  • Teach an acceptable behaviour that is incompatible with jumping up like a sit or down stay (your choice).Get a nice treat, hold it in your hand but don’t give it to your dog. Don’t give any command; just patiently wait until your dog shows the behaviour you want. Praise and treat immediately.
  • Take a step away from your dog and repeat the process until Fluffy sits / downs reliably and immediately after each step you take. Don’t make your training sessions too long (5-10 min), rather practice a few times a day, as you can. Always stop on a high note and while your dog is still eager to work. Steadily increase the length of the sit before you give the treat.
  • Practice in different locations, especially close to the gate / doorways where your dog normally gets to greet you and your visitors. Slowly raise the stakes but only increase one criteria in each training session. So, if you decide to increase the time Fluffy needs to sit before he gets rewarded, do not change the location where you practice as well.Once your dog reliably sits or downs you can introduce a verbal cue or command.
  • When Fluffy’s sit stay has become fairly reliable it is time to practice with willing friends. Armed with treats ask them to ring the bell or come to the gate and only greet and reward Fluffy if all his paws are on the floor.
  • Teach your dog a “too bad” – a signal that informs him that he just lost a treat / his reward.  Once your dog understands this signal it can help you a lot to stop unwanted behaviours, as dogs learn quickly to abandon behaviour that does not pay.
  • Get your dog to sit. Hold a very tasty treat about 30 cm away from him on nose level. (His nose – not yours.) As soon as he moves towards the treat (and he will) simply say “Too bad!!” (or “No” or “AAH AAH” – or whatever word you want to use as your no reward signal) and snatch the treat away. Get him back into a sit and repeat. If your timing is good Fluffy will soon decide to change his strategy and offer another behaviour. If he stays and simply stares at the treat reward/ reinforce immediately.
  • Repeat the whole process several times to establish your “too bad” signal or practice sit-stays. To raise the stakes change your position, change the type of treat, put the treat on the floor (but make sure you can get to it first in case your dog makes a mistake) etc… Again, don’t make a training session too long and stop while Fluffy is still keen to go on.  Use these two steps consistently.  Praise and reward acceptable behaviour every time and inform your dog about his mistakes with your no reward signal as soon as he jumps up on you. In that case turn away and walk away and leave him for a minute or two.
  • Give your dog an appropriate outlet for all his energy.  Daily walks – off-leash if possible Play sessions with other friendly dogs.  Retrieve games.  Hide and seek.  Recall practice with 2-5 people.
  • Stand opposite each other or in a circle and take turns calling the dog. Reward enthusiastically when he comes to the right person.
    • Chase – Teach your dog that a certain cue e.g. “I am gonna catch you” will start the game of you chasing after him.
    • Tug-of-war – Played with rules tug-of-war is a great energy burner and good exercise for yourself and your dog. Please teach your dog the rules and stick to them.  The dog lets go of the tugging toy or rope immediately when told to.

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  • Give your command to let go and swop the toy with a nice treat.
  • Give your cue to retake the rope and start tugging again.
  • Practice these exchanges before your dog gets really excited with some slow-motion,calm tugging.
  • Once the dog releases the toy on command put the treats out of sight.
  • He only retakes the rope when invited to do so.
  • Get one specific toy for your tug-of-war and stick to that toy.
  • The game starts only with that toy and on your cue e.g. “Take the rope”.
  • Should Fluffy grab the toy uninvited, tell him “too bad” and interrupt the game for a short while before you start again.
  • Do not tolerate accidents
  • During the heat of the game dogs will sometimes make contact with your hand by mistake. Screech “OUCH!!!” and immediately stop the game. Fluffy is very capable of controlling his teeth and you can use this as a reminder to keep them off people at all times.
  • Other than that let Fluffy be as excited as he wants to. Let him tug, shake and growl to his heart’s content.
  • Tug-of-war makes a great reward during obedience exercises as well.

Should you encounter any problems or have any questions please contact:

  • Hermanus Animal Welfare Society : 028 312 1281
  • Janine (Trainer-Touch therapist-Puppy classes) – 082 490 1650
  • Naomi (animal communicator) – 083 226 3526

Source: Hermanus Animal Welfare

Hormonal behaviour in captive parrots

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Hormonal behaviour in captive parrots

A large percentage of birds in our network portray signs of hormonal behaviour. In the wild, hormonal behaviour may be triggered by factors that change with the seasons, such as extended hours of sunlight, higher food abundance, or warmer weather. While seasonal procreation is natural for parrots, constantly comfortable conditions in the household setting may contribute towards year-round hormonal behaviour in some parrots, while others remain affected only seasonally.

While parrots are capable of reading birdy body language, this understanding does not come as naturally in humans and must either be observed or learned. We love to anthropomorphize our pets and this is a huge mistake in parrot ownership. Misunderstanding your bird’s body language can lead to issues such as screaming, biting, fear, aggression, and hormonal behaviour. Many of these lead to the surrender or rehoming of the bird.

What does hormonal behaviour look like?

Hormonal behaviours can look different across species, so we encourage you to do your own research on the species you have in your home so you are best able to identify these behaviours and avoid any long lasting issues with your bird. The attached videos are good examples of some of the most common behaviours listed below.

Common signs of hormonal behaviour include:

  • Regurgitation on people/objects, or for other birds
  • Masturbation
  • Territorial issues
  • Wing dipping/flapping
  • Tail fanning
  • Panting
  • Nesting
  • Egg laying
  • Aggression
  • Feather plucking on legs and chest

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Why shouldn’t I encourage this behaviour?

In the wild, parrots engage in allopreening with a friend or mate. While head scratches are common, birds seldom get touched on their bodies unless there is intention of mating. Petting/touching on the back, under the wings and near the vent are mating signals in birds and can lead to sexual frustration in your feathered friend. Encouraging a bonded/mated relationship with your bird can cause your bird to become territorial over you or pluck its feathers, lead to seemingly unprovoked biting habits or screaming when you are out of sight and also increase the chances of egg binding in females. Feather plucking is a major concern in parrot ownership. Many times it is exacerbated by unaware owners unknowingly encouraging hormonal behaviours/failing to determine the underlying causes of the plucking in time (although this is only one of the many reasons a bird may pluck).

How can I prevent this and what can I do to help if it does happen?

There is no cookie-cutter solution to fix every situation. Most of the listed behaviours can also be a cause for medical concern so it is important to discuss any changes in behaviour/concerns you may have with your avian veterinarian. In some cases, medical intervention may be required in the form of a hormonal implant/injection should there be an underlying cause for the overactive hormonal behaviours.

If you have a young bird then set it up for success from the start. In the wild, young birds are fed and preened by their parents until they are mature enough to take care of their own survival. Encourage independence and foraging behaviours in young birds. Focus on enriching your bird’s life through target training and activities which engage their minds, rather than solely cuddling them. Do not touch your bird in a repetitive manner other than on their heads. Assisting them with their pin feathers is a great way to bond as a flock member, rather than as a potential mate. Avoid having nesting sites or mirrors in the cage and ensure your bird gets a good 10-12 hours of undisturbed sleep per day.

This article does not serve to diagnose or treat hormonal behaviours in parrots. The purpose of this article is merely to educate unaware owners of the factors contributing towards hormonal behaviour and steps they could take to reduce this in their homes. Always consult with your veterinarian if you may suspect there is something wrong with your bird.

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The behaviours depicted in these videos are for educational purposes and were not encouraged by their owners. Thank you to everyone who allowed us to use this footage.

Written by: Giselle Diemer

Source: Cheeky Beaks Parrot Rescue

First Impressions- Tips For Adopting/Fostering A Rescue Parrot

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First Impressions- Tips For Adopting/Fostering A Rescue Parrot

Introducing a feathered friend to your home can be most exciting. Bear in mind however, that like us, birds come with baggage, trauma triggers, and oftentimes undesirable behaviour. Having the grit to work with that bird, through the good and the bad, can make all the difference in changing its life for the better. Animal behaviourist, Lizelle Britz-Chapman, has a few tips for those who decide to foster or adopt a rescue bird.

“Accept the bad, hope for the best”

Doing so will ensure that you will not set yourself up for a failure. If you think about a bird that has been abused, for example, then you already know it will not be an easy task. However, you may be surprised. Some birds adapt faster than others, meaning that its rehabilitation may not be so challenging after all but do be prepared for potentially long journey.

Getting to know your bird

Birds are perceptive enough to hide what they are feeling. This is understandable, as if they express stress or anxiety in the wild, they make for easy prey. In that case, take what you observe with a pinch of salt. Your bird may appear relaxed, but this may not be the case. Give your parrot around 5 days to properly ascertain how it responds to you.

 
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How to settle in your parrot

Before you bring your parrot home, ensure that you have everything set up. A week before the bird arrives, make sure that the cage is in place, if possible. Ensure that food and water are in place just before you place the bird inside. This means that you can avoid sticking your hands in the cage within the first 12 to 24 hours. Setting a precedent of respect for your bird’s space can make all the difference – especially if it has been abused or neglected in the past.

You do not need to ignore your bird, however. Talk to it, put on a radio or TV for some ambient noise that may soothe the parrot and allow it to adjust to the normal, if not softer, sounds of your home.

Toys

People are usually so excited to adopt their birds that they hang every toy they’ve bought up in the cage – and it’s the worst thing you can do, as it is extremely overwhelming. Have one or two toys that aren’t extremely bright in the cage to begin with. Getting a parrot used to engaging with toys is part of the rehabilitation process. Parrots should be able to entertain themselves and not always be dependent on human interaction.

Make sure that they have space to move around and up and down as they like. Depending on the bird that you have, different types of toys are more suitable. Larger birds will need larger wooden toys as their large beaks can destroy toys more easily. Smaller birds can enjoy toys with popsicle sticks, smaller wooden blocks, and paper for example. Foraging is important for all parrots and can be introduced slowly while they learn how to forage.

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In the same way that there are different big cats, there are also different parrots. There are “old world parrots,” such as African Greys, Macaws and Amazons, and “new world parrots,” such as cockatoos and those that live in close proximity to humans. Old world parrots are typically scavenging birds. They enjoy being on the ground, gnawing on things, tearing them apart. Let this guide your decision to provide toys that they can chew such as wood or scavenger boxes. As your bird acclimatizes, you can begin to add more toys.

New school parrots are natural problem solvers. They require things that they can pick at, forage and solve.

A common mistake among fosters is overwhelming the parrot on the first day or week. We recommend leaving cleaning to once the bird has settled and is calm. Cleaning the cage on the first day can overwhelm the bird and lengthen the recovery process. This doesn’t apply to a situation where the cage is a so severe that it is a risk for the human or bird’s health.

Diet

Many rescue birds have been deprived of a healthy diet, and some forced to survive only on seeds or nuts. The first thing Lizelle wants people to remember is that it can take months to get a bird on a proper diet. There are also birds that will never be 100% converted. If you aware of a history of an only-seed diet, don’t pull out the seeds immediately, as the bird will not eat. In that case, seeds and a portion of pellets mixed together may do the trick. Additionally, you can add in a food that has a nice smell to it, such as pineapple or apple, something tangy. Sprouted seeds are also a healthier version of seeds that can help parrots’ transition to eating healthier foods. Other ideas to help transition a parrot include making a veggie mash and hiding the seeds in it and offering the vegetables in different ways (chopped fine or given in larger chunks, cooked or raw).

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Give it time and be persistent. As the parrots becomes accustomed to being in your home, you can introduce more foods. Remember that variety is crucial. There are also many calming teas (such as chamomile) that you can add in the water if need be.

Biting

All bird owners share this burden. Biting is, to some degree, inevitable, no matter how friendly your bird is. Parrots bite for various reasons – such as fear, nervousness, or simply desiring more attention from you. Luckily, there are some techniques to avoid those nasty bites.

When it comes to this, it is important to know that your bird won’t bite without cause. An attention seeking bite is the worst kind, as it has developed into a routine and the parrot actually has to learn some manners.

Nervousness and fear can be worked with, using target training and positive reinforcement, during which the bird will build a bond with you.

In her experience, Lizelle advises those to deal with biting birds by placing them on the ground immediately after the incident. A bird on the ground is vulnerable, it will then understand that if it bites, it is not high up anymore, nor protected.

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A parrot will give you a sign before it bites, either puffing up its feathers, diluting its pupils or even hissing. If you respond to a bird that is puffing itself up by walking away, you are communicating with it, and subsequently that bird will learn that it doesn’t need to bite you.

You can also work on your relationship by respecting its boundaries, especially if the bird is not happy to be handled, in the following ways:

  • Give the bird space
  • Give it treats through the bars
  • Talk to it

With a bird that is biting for attention, you may have to get someone in to come and start training the bird. There is no quick fix for that, and it may be a behaviour that might remain. You can have a perfectly trained bird, and it may still bite.

They are unpredictable, but you will learn how to read that bird as you go along.

Lizelle warns bird owners to not put birds back in their cages when they bite. If you do, they will learn that biting and the cage share a negative connection, in terms of space. Birds will be unwilling to return to their cages after some time. It needs to be their safe space.

Give them a few seconds after you put them on the floor, while keeping an eye on them, of course. See what they want to do, if they come to you, it means that they consider you a safe place.

Touch and handling

Pointing fingers are very intimidating for a bird. It is overwhelming. Similarly, hand games are a no-go if you want to keep your fingers intact. Rather get a ball with a bell, and roll it around with your bird. Your hands are there for handling, and to work with the bird.

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People also need to be extremely careful about where they touch their bird. Never touch your bird on its backs or wings. When you scratch their back, stomachs, wings and tails, you are actually enticing a mating behaviour – which leads to bad behaviour, biting, and frustration. Touching the head and the feet is safe in terms of working on a bond with your bird.

Avoid trauma triggers

Avoid quick movements. In the wild, this means they are in danger. Don’t surprise your bird by walk up to it from behind, for example. Make sure they can see you coming, or talk to them before you reach them.

Pay attention to the story that comes with the bird. If your bird is aggressive towards men, or people with specific hair colours, you will need to keep this in mind to avoid inciting further trauma. You will need to pin point these triggers, which is why is the first few days are so crucial. Carefully observe their body language.

Be prepared for noise

Bird owners will know all about loud noises. Screaming can go on for hours. This is why the method works as an attention seeking behaviour. People will get frustrated, neighbours may complain, so in most cases, one will relent and go and fetch the bird.

The bird will, therefore, understand that it can manipulate you in this way. If you find this to be the case, the best tactic is to divert its attention. Give it something to do as spoken about by the topic of toys. Parrots love noises and colours. Putting on a children’s movie, or something with movement is a great way to entertain your parrot. Once your bird is calm, you can go and fetch it.

In the beginning, it is hard. Try to ignore the behaviour as best you can. Sometimes the bird may just be having a tantrum. People tend to forget that parrots have the mentality of toddlers, and do not have the capability to understand when they are in a time out, for example.

Therefore, you must communicate accordingly, and let go of the notion that you can reason with your bird in simple ways.

Written by: Fern Bamber

Source: Cheeky Beaks