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Dogs love liver – but how much liver is too much – can too much do harm?

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Dog

Dogs love liver – but how much liver is too much – can too much do harm?

Everyone who loves dogs knows that dogs love liver! Treats containing liver abound, recipes for liver “brownies” are perennial favourites (you can find one here on this blog, but there are countless versions) and simple baked treats are a mainstay as “bait” for show dogs and rewards for hard working canines in all kinds of sport and performance work. In home made recipes, some organ meat is always included, to boost nutrient levels, especially Vitamin A, and copper. But how much liver is enough, and is it possible to overdo it? Are all kinds – beef, lamb, chicken, pork – created equal? In this entry we’ll take a little closer look at liver; what it offers your dog, how to prepare it – and why you really can get too much of a good thing.

Let’s start with what’s good about liver, why it should be included in a canine diet, if it’s tolerated.

  1. Liver is nature’s most abundant source of Vitamin A, in the  most bioavailable form for carnivores. (This is why cod liver oil is so different from fish body oil, the vitamin content).
  2. Liver is an excellent source of protein, all the B vitamins, and iron.
  3. Liver is very high in copper, an important nutrient that can be low in home made diets.
  4. Liver contains Vitamin D which supports the immune system, muscles & bone growth
  5. Oh yes, and dogs love the stuff…can’t forget that one.

Look for a supplier that uses rural raised, clean air living, grass fed, hormone free Beef – always buy the best you can afford.

Now, what might some of the issues be?

  1. ​Liver is very high in copper (yes, this can be a problem if fed too much. We want to hit in around the  Recommended Allowance, not go, you know, 20 times above it. That carries its own problems)
  2. Liver is very high in phosphorus, which we like to watch especially with growth diets, seniors and very carefully with kidney disease.
  3. Liver is high in purines, a big no-no for dogs with uric acid stones(especially common in the Dalmatian, and serious stuff)
  4. Although we mention above that what is good is that liver contains Vit. A, we need to be aware that too much Vit. A can poison dogs, creating symptoms that in include tremors, convulsions and peeling skin. 
  5. There is always the risk of salmonella and campylobacter in raw organs which can be particularly harmful to young, old or unwell dogs. 
  6. When a dog has an allergic reaction, it is very often the protein that is the culprit. A good idea is to do an allergy test
  7. Always check with your vet before giving liver to your dog if your dog suffers from any disease. With some diseases, liver can do harm. 

This part can get technical, so bear with me.  I don’t, for the record, believe that every meal has to be “perfectly balanced” but I can easily demonstrate how not paying attention and relying on guesswork will create imbalances- which in turn, can have serious backlash over time. It’s good to know what is in our food – not just the toxins, which many are concerned about, but the nutrients! So to figure out how much liver to add, it’s smart to start off calculating your dog’s phosphorus and copper requirements. Then, calculate how much is in the diet. Often, there will be plenty of phosphorus but low copper.  Add just enough liver to bring the copper into the recommended range or a little higher. The exceptions to this of course, would be a cancer or renal diet where we need to restrict copper, or of course, any dog with urate stones. Just take a pass in those cases.

In a cooked diet, I generally need to add anywhere from 1 – 5 ounces per week, depending on the size of the dog. I did a St. Bernard diet yesterday and we’re using six ounces of liver; the dog’s recommended allowance is 35 mgs, and the recipe has 36. The dog’s allowance for phosphorus is 14,000 mgs; with the liver, we have 14,079.(this is beef liver I’m referring to here).

To calculate your dogs RA for phosphorus, follow the same basic procedure I’ve referred to in past entries; take the bodyweight in kilograms to the power of 0.75, then multiply by 100. That’s the DAILY recommended allowance. To find the copper recommendation, take the metabolic number as above, and multiply by 0.2, for the daily ideal level. Of course, you just X these levels by 7 to get the weekly amounts.

That’s the easy part. Figuring out what’s in the diet is harder. You can use a tool like nutrition data, or you can slog it out using the USDA database. In general, my feeling is one ounce a week for a small dog, 2 – 3 for a medium, 4-6 for large and giant breeds. This is not precision nutrition, but it gives an idea of how much we might use in a recipe. I often suggest to clients they reserve the liver I include in their dog’s recipe, and feed as treats. It doesn’t have to go into the batch, just into the dog. 

Dog

What about different types of liver?

I am often asked if they can be interchanged –  and I think, as treats they can ( given I am recommending not using liver in general all the time) but when we’re looking to meet a dietary requirement, different types of liver have different profiles.  Here’s a peek at four popular varieties:

Beef Liver
​82 grams, cooked weight (this will apply to all varieties)
Calories – 156
Phosphorus- 407 grams (this is substantial, when you consider an equivalent amount of lean muscle meat has about 168 mgs).
Copper– 11.7 mgs  (this too is a lot, consider my 72 kg St. Bernard needed only 5 mgs daily.)
Iron – 5.3 mgs
Zinc – 4.3 mgs

​Calf’s  Liver
​Calories – 155
Phosphorus – 377 mgs
Copper – 12.3 mgs
Iron – 4.19 mgs
Zinc – 9.2 mgs
Not much difference other than more zinc. These two are more or less interchangeable. But then there is…

Chicken Liver
Calories-136
Phosphorus – 332 mgs
Copper – 0.4 mgs
Iron – 9.5 mgs
Zinc – 3.26mgs
This is significant particularly if one is adding liver to amp up the copper. Note the higher iron, too; seems like a small difference, but small dogs can really be affected. Not interchangeable with calf’s of beef liver. And then we have…

Lamb Liver​
Calories– 180
Phosphorus– 344 mgs
Copper -5.8
Iron– 6.79 mgs
Zinc – 6.47 mgs

Other differences include Vitamin A, B12 and selenium. In dietary formulation we learn to pay attention to all of these levels, and aim for an optimal range. Very nutrient -dense foods like liver offer great benefits, but we need to use them properly. Liver is not to be fed as a main protein source, but a garnish, an addition, a booster of the nutrients we’ve highlighted here. Now, as TREATS, I feel you’re ok with a healthy dog, to mix liver types up and use judicious amounts. I like to emphasize heart, muscle meat and eggs, so as to minimize  the chance of driving some nutrient levels out of balance. But in a  recipe, where we are trying to reach specific levels, yes indeed, all liver is not created equal.

Source: Friends of the Dog

Flatulence – Farting and Gas Problems in Dogs

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Flatulence

Flatulence – Farting and Gas Problems in Dogs

The formation of gas in the stomach or intestine is referred to as flatulence. Today most people refer to the annoying and rather offensive smell and noise associated with flatulence as a fart or gas. Let’s face it no one enjoys sharing an environment with a pet suffering from flatulence, so here is some information to help you understand why your pet has flatulence and what you can do to help.

What causes flatulence in dogs?

It should be noted that it is normal for gas to be produced and to accumulate within the gastrointestinal tract. However, in some situations this production of gas is increased and can become excessive. The most common cause of excessive flatulence is a change in diet or from the dog eating something new or spoiled (dietary indiscretion). Most cases of chronic flatulence are caused by a diet that is poorly digested by the dog. These poorly digestible diets cause excessive fermentation in the colon and subsequent gas formation. Soybeans, peas, beans, milk products, high-fat diets and spicy foods are all commonly associated with flatulence in dogs. Dogs and cats are lactose intolerant and if they are fed milk or dairy products they will often experience flatulence and GI upset. A dog that is being fed a super premium diet and is still experiencing flatulence should be tested for malassimilation (which means either poor digestion or poor absorption of nutrients from the diet).

Dogs that swallow air, especially those that eat rapidly, are more likely to experience flatulence. Overweight, obese and sedentary dogs are at higher risk for developing chronic flatulence, regardless of diet.

What are the clinical signs of flatulence?

The most common clinical signs include:

  • expulsion of gas from the anus, with or without odour,
  • mild abdominal discomfort,
  • mild stomach distention or bloating,
  • excessive gaseous sounds or rumbling from the abdomen (borborygmus).

If a dog has an underlying malassimilation problem, clinical signs may also include loose stools or diarrhoea, vomiting and weight loss.

How is flatulence diagnosed?

Flatulence

Diagnosis is based on the medical history and clinical signs. Some of the common causes include: 

  • Aerophagia (increased swallowing of air)
  • Nervous eaters
  • Gluttony or compulsive eating
  • Respiratory disease
  • Feeding shortly after exercise
  • Brachycephalic or flat-faced breeds

Diet

  • Diets high in soybeans, peas or beans
  • Diets high in fermentable fibres such as lactulose, psyllium or oat bran
  • Milk and dairy products
  • Sudden change in diet
  • Spicy foods and food additives
  • Spoiled food

Diseases

  • Inflammatory bowel disease (IBD)
  • Small intestinal bacterial overgrowth (SIBO)
  • Tumours
  • Irritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS)
  • Intestinal parasites
  • Enteritis
  • Exocrine pancreatic insufficiency (EPI)

Other diagnostic tests that may be required to determine the cause of excessive flatulence include faecal examination and evaluation, rectal cytology, feacal cultures, blood and urine tests, trypsin-like immunoreactivity (TLI), serum cobalamin and folate tests, abdominal radiographs, abdominal ultrasound and intestinal biopsies.

How is flatulence treated?

​Treatment is based on diagnosis and commonly involves a change in diet. Diet recommendations include a diet that is highly digestible with a low fibre and fat content. Prescription diets and medication may also be required in some cases. We will outline a treatment plan specifically designed for your pet.

Flatulence

Can a flatulence problem really be solved?

Most patients with uncomplicated cases respond well to dietary and lifestyle changes. Once you have identified offending dietary substances, it is important for your pet to avoid them to prevent other medical problems and issues.

Source: Friends of the Dog

Some surprising dangers regarding dog harnesses

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dog

Some surprising dangers regarding dog harnesses

Whether you already use a harness for your dog, or you’re considering making the switch from a traditional collar and leash, there’s plenty to take into consideration.

“There are many different types of harnesses available,” says Victoria Schade, a dog trainer and author based in Pennsylvania. “Some help curb a pulling habit, some are better for the comfort of the dog, and some are all about fashion over function.”

The risks and benefits of using a harness can depend on the type of harness, your dog’s breed and activity level, and your proper use of the device. Here’s what the experts have to say about dog harness safety.

Potential Risks of Dog Harnesses
If a harness doesn’t fit well and a dog pulls hard on his leash, there is some potential for a chest injury, says Dr. Susan C. Nelson, clinical professor at the Veterinary Health Center at Kansas State University.

A halter with a back clip, as opposed to a front clip, may be better for brachycephalic (short-nosed dogs), small breeds, and dogs with tracheal collapse or other tracheal issues. This is because front-clip harnesses may put too much pressure on the throat region when the dog pulls on the leash, Nelson says.  

Schaede notes that a harness does not, by definition, decrease pulling unless it is specifically designed to address the problem.

Front-hook harnesses, on the other hand, can affect a dog’s natural gait and hinder shoulder movement. Nelson says these particular harnesses may not be a good choice for dogs who engage in athletic activities.

Sleeping in a harness is potentially risky because it could get caught on something (like the dog’s crate) and become a choking hazard, Nelson adds. “It can also be uncomfortable for a harness to be on 24/7.”
In addition, pet parents should not leave a wet harness on their dog for a long period of time, as it can cause skin infection, advises Dr. Katie Grzyb, medical director at One Love Animal Hospital in Brooklyn, New York.
“Monitor hidden areas such as armpits and under the chest a few times a week to make sure that the harness is not causing skin irritation from rubbing,” Grzyb adds.

Choosing the Right Harness for Your Dog​
A well-fitting harness won’t gap, pull, chafe, or otherwise irritate the dog and will stay put with minimal movement as the dog walks, Schade says. A properly fitted harness also won’t cause rolls of skin to bunch up around the dog’s neck or shoulders, which indicate that it is too tight. And when you take the harness off, you shouldn’t see indentations in the fur where the harness sat, Schaede says.

Pet parents with barrel-chested dogs, like English Bulldogs, Boxers, and Pit Bulls, might have a tougher time finding a harness that fits properly. “Comfort is key when it comes to finding the right fit, and some harnesses either fit these breeds too tightly around the chest or shoulders or rub under the arms as the dog walks,” Schade says.

To ensure the fit is not too tight or too loose, you should be able to fit two fingers snugly between the harness and your dog, Grzyb says. If using a harness on a young, growing dog, Nelson recommends checking the fit frequently to be sure your puppy has not outgrown it.

Most standard harnesses don’t require special training, but some dogs do need to acclimate when switching from a leash attached at the collar to a harness, Schade says.

This can be especially true if the harness is tricky to put on. “Pet parents can set themselves up to succeed by using treats to ease the process,” she says. “Reward the dog for standing calmly every step of the way as the harness is put on.”

The greatest risk of an ill-fitting harness is the dog slipping out of it during a walk, Schade says. Some dog body shapes don’t mesh well with certain harness types. For example, your dog may be able to wiggle out if he has a deep chest (think Great Danes or Dobermans) and the shoulder-to-chest ratio on the harness creates too much slack. Some no-pull harnesses have a design flaw in which the chest piece slips down when the leash is taut, which means a determined puller can slip free, Schade says.
​
For this reason, your dog should always wear identification tags, especially if he’s an escape artist. “In general, it is still better for dogs to wear a collar with some type of identification, in case they get lost,” Nelson says. Pet parents who are worried about the risk of their dog getting hung up by his collar can purchase one with a breakaway feature.

Source: Friends of the dog

If Only That Hadn’t Happened, This Dog Would Be Fine

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Dog

If Only That Hadn’t Happened, This Dog Would Be Fine

Why are some dogs shy? fearful? nervous? aggressive? irritable? unfriendly? difficult to train? clingy? unable to be left alone? 

People have many explanations for why dogs act as they do. Sometimes the dog’s history becomes baggage that the human carts along for the dog’s entire life. Recently, I asked someone about their dog’s pulling on leash and she began her answer with, “He was found near a dumpster when he was six weeks old.” The dog was 3 years old now. How does being found near a dumpster have much to do with pulling, which is an interaction between a dog and handler?

Sometimes, the human guesses at what happened. “A man with a hat must have abused her because she hates men with hats.” Or maybe she just finds hats scary? Or maybe she’s unsure about men in general, and the hat just adds to the scariness? If a 10 foot tall three headed slime being suddenly appeared on your street, your reaction wouldn’t be due to having been abused by three headed slime beings but rather due to the strangeness, the novelty, the unfamiliarity of the thing. What is attributed to abuse in the dog’s past often can be more accurately laid at the feet of being poorly socialized and thus having a very small list of known & familiar, but a huge list of what is strange, novel or unfamiliar and therefore frightening. By contrast, a well socialized animal has a huge list of familiar and known items, people, experiences.

However, when we explain behavior, what is frequently heard is this:

If only that hadn’t happened, this dog would be fine.

“If only that hadn’t happened . . . this dog would be fine” is at best a faulty premise. At worst, it is a rejection of the reality that individuals vary considerably in their ability to handle whatever life dishes up.

“Would have been fine” or “was fine before X” — based on what criteria? After what kind of assessment? Breeders, trainers, rescue/shelter staff and dog lovers alike often have no meaningful, detailed way of assessing behavior. They are not lying when they pronounce the dog as “perfectly fine”, but they are reporting on an opinion based on a less than thorough assessment. Without a Geiger counter, the woods and fields around the nuclear disaster site at Chernobyl look quite lovely. Sometimes, what passes as an assessment of a dog is a lot like evaluating Chernobyl without checking for radioactivity. 

Ironically, there is frequently some tacit acknowledgment that all is not truly fine. Instructions provided regarding the animal reveal a lot.  This can be heard in “Oh, just don’t reach for him [or try to touch or look at him], and he’ll be fine.”  None of these warnings indicate an animal who is fine, who can remain functional and appropriate and keep his teeth to himself (or stay in the same room) even if humans look or touch or act humanoid. Warnings exist where there is a potential for problems. Ever seen a sign that says “Caution! Dry floor with good traction!”?? No one warns, “Careful – he will stay relaxed and happy if you look at him, hug him, or touch him.”

“If only that hadn’t happened…” often points to specific experiences that people believe are to blame for any number of behaviors and responses that are less than desirable, whether that’s being anxious or fearful or shy or aggressive or intolerant or reactive. “It’s because he was flown on a plane.” “It’s because he’s in a shelter.” “It’s because the woman reached over his head.” “It’s because the man was wearing sunglasses.” “It’s because he had five different people transporting him.” And so on. In the end, what is believed, is that the experience alone – whatever it was – ruined the dog

This bears some detailed examination if we are interested in doing right by the dogs entrusted to us.

Experience can, will, does affect an animal. No question. But to pose experience as the thing that can destroy a stable resilient individual is not quite accurate. What one animal finds so traumatic might be simply confusing and annoying for another animal. An unexpected hug from an overly exuberant child can result in one dog just waiting patiently for it to end, while another dog in that same setting might feel trapped and frantically bite the child’s face. Being hugged is not the problem. It is how the dog experiences the hug. And that’s the key here: who is the individual, and to what extent does any given experience affect him?

Each individual dog is the product of genetics and developmental stimulation (also referred to as Nature) and the cumulative effect of his experiences (sometimes referred to as nurture). Which is more influential? Genes are not the sole determinant of behavior; behavior is not solely the product of experience. Though the “if only that hadn’t happened…” folks like to think otherwise, it turns out there is no point in deciding between Nature and nurture.

In her book, The Mirage of Space Between Nature and Nurture, Evelyn Fox Keller points out that each are inexplicably intertwined. Each influences the other. As Keller notes, there is no understanding of a wall as purely bricks or purely mortar, just as no drum beat exists without a drum and a drummer. There is a great illustration in her book that shows one child holding a hose aimed at bucket, and one child at the other end of the hose ready to turn the faucet on. She asks if X number of gallons fill the bucket, which child contributed more to that? The answer, of course, is that both children and both actions (turning on the faucet, holding the hose) are necessary to fill the bucket. This, in an elegant nutshell, is the Nature/nurture argument. 

Animals vary widely in their adaptability, their coping skills, their resilience, their ability to remain functional in any given situation, under any given stress. There is a huge range between the end points on the functional/dysfunctional spectrum. It is helpful to consider it as a continuum with many layers. On each layer, an animal could be closer to one end of the spectrum than he might be on another layer. For example, if one of the layers is auditory sensitivity, then a deaf dog is on the dysfunctional end of scale, though he may be perfectly functional on all other layers. (CARAT seeks to assess animals on a multi-layered scale that allows for finely detailed evaluations.)

On one end of the behavior spectrum are animals with limited ability to handle stress. Their behavior can be rigid, maladaptive, inflexible, or even downright fragile. These dogs can experience poor quality of life at times due to specific stressors or stimuli (for example, thunderstorms). Or the dog may have a generalized inability to adapt that affects the dog throughout his life in many or even all situations. For such dogs, care must be taken to provide the best possible environment and lifestyle to avoid creating distress for them. It may take very little for them to find a situation upsetting or distressing. The goal for their caretakers is to support their needs so that they can function to the greatest possible degree. Sadly, for some of these dogs, they may have severely limited adaptability.  

On the other end of the behavior spectrum are the animals who can adjust, continue to function, who have coping skills. These animals are “take them anywhere, do anything with them!” hardy souls remaining highly functional under even extreme situations. They are able to recover quickly even from distressing experiences. Their behavior is robust, flexible, adaptive, and resilient. Typically, these animals can move easily between varying environments and a wide range of demands without any significant changes in their behavior. Since they can adapt to their environment, the environment does not need to be adapted for them.

What we need to focus on is this:  the adaptable, resilient animals will have very different experiences than the fragile, less adaptable animals even in the same situation. Consider a visit to the zoo’s reptile house. If you’re a snake lover, the reptile house is a wonderful experience full of interesting animals, and you enjoy every minute of your visit. If you’re afraid of snakes, the reptile house is a frightening place that you do not enjoy and leave as quickly as you can. Same situation, two very different experiences.

When we understand that any given event may or may not affect the animal depending on who that animal is, we can stop blaming an event and begin to understand the individual animal. Then the important questions become: 

  • How do you assess the dog’s ability to adapt, function, cope?
  • How do you know how fragile or robust an animal is?

One important clue to adaptability and coping skills is the ability to remain functional. The degree to which basic functions are disrupted tells us how much any given stress or situation is affecting the animal. The basic functions to be considered are: 

  • Eating Functional animals eat when hungry. Variations on the spectrum range from limiting intake to needing particularly tempting or “special” foods to having to be coaxed to being hand-fed to being force-fed to vomiting to total refusal/complete disinterest in eating.
  • Drinking Functional animals drink when thirsty, and in appropriate amounts. Variations on the spectrum range from excessive drinking (psychogenic or “stress” drinking, which may have to do with gastric distress) to refusing to drink at all.
  • Sleeping Functional dogs sleep approximately 12-14 hours per day. Variations on the spectrum when stressed/distressed include hypervigilance that precludes sleep, constantly interrupted sleep, insufficient sleep, and excessive sleep.
  • Elimination Functional animals urinate and defecate on a regular basis, with properly concentrated urine and properly digested food and a compact stool. Variations on the spectrum when stressed/distressed range from refusal to urinate or defecate in new (or “unsafe”) conditions or only under very specific conditions (no humans nearby, no noises, no other animals, etc) to increased urination and defecation to outright diarrhea and urinary incontinence.
  • Social Interactions Functional animals are able to maintain their social skills under a broad range of conditions. Please note: maintain, not develop! An animal who is lacking social skills with either humans or other dogs or any other species cannot be said to be dysfunctional due to circumstance – the skill did not exist prior to the circumstance. Variations on the spectrum when stressed/distressed include avoidance of interactions, irritability with interactions, clinginess, unwillingness to be left alone (when normally willing to be), to outright aggression.
  • Learning & Thinking Functional animals can employ their knowledge and skills under a broad range of conditions. As an animal’s stress/distress increases, their ability to learn or think clearly decreases, one notable effect of arousal. Variations on the spectrum when stressed/distressed include slow or inaccurate responses, mild to significant inability to correctly process signals, outright inability to learn or perform.
  • Play Play is a high level function that is based on physical and emotional well being, and in particular, a feeling of safety in that environment and with playmate(s).

Example #1:Dog is adopted from one home to another, but within 2 weeks, brought to a boarding kennel where he spends 10 days. From there he is adopted to yet another home. The dog has continued to eat well, drink normally, urinate/defecate with some mild diarrhoea on a few occasions, interacted appropriately with all staff who handled or walked him, played when given the opportunity, was appropriate with other dogs and cats at the facility. Not surprisingly, this dog handled very well the journey to his new home, a nearly 9 hour trip with multiple stops and a change of vehicle and crate. Within a day, this dog had bonded strongly with his new owners, and continued to adapt without any significant changes in his functioning.

Example #2: Dog is picked up from a situation where he has lived all his life since birth. When approached by the rescuer, the dog becomes immobilized with fear. He is unresponsive to food, touch, verbal signals, tugs on leash or collar. He must be carried and forcibly placed into crate for transport. Upon arrival at his destination, the dog remains immobile in the crate, unwilling to come out even when door is left open.  Left alone in the safe room with food and water, and observed from outside the room, it is more than 3 hours before he moves towards the food and water placed just inches from him. Not surprisingly, it is a long road to being fairly functional in the world for this dog, and a matter of years of consistent effort and environment.

 He can still be pushed into dysfunction by disruptions in his schedule or unfamiliar people.

Example #3: Dog competes several weekends each month in a dog sport. The handler is careful to pack her white noise machine for the hotel room or the dog can’t sleep and will pace most of the night. She also packs special foods because the dog often refuses to eat while traveling but can be tempted with exceptional foods. Her medicine kit includes plenty of anti-diarrheal medication, because diarrhea is common with this dog while traveling (though he has normal stools at home). Finally, she includes supplements meant for stress relief, because the dog often appears stressed during trial weekends. When asked about her dog, this handler reports that her dog “loves this sport and the showing adventures” they share. Not surprisingly, she also reports some performance and training difficulties with this dog. She is offended by the notion that her dog’s behavior demonstrates a high degree of stress, dismissing it with, “Oh, all the dogs I know are the same way. He’s fine!”

Any of these dogs could be assessed according to their ability to be functional at any or all of the points along the way: at the point of initial contact, during transport, and at the final destination. At each assessment, we need to know:

  • How functional is this animal?
  • Where is function impaired, and to what degree?
  • Is function in any area impaired sufficiently to warrant medical intervention?
  • What negatively affects the animal’s ability to function?
  • What positively affects the animal’s ability to function?

A behaviorally robust animal can adapt to a great deal before a situation becomes distressful for them. A behaviorally fragile animal cannot handle much without becoming dysfunctional. The same experience can have vastly different effects on individuals. Knowing how to assess an animal in terms of basic functions helps us be truly more humane, and aids us in making the best decisions for them as unique individuals.

This functional assessment gives us a way to know where the animal stands in that moment, and helps us continue to assess progress or deterioration on a fine level, as often as necessary. Functionality reflects the animal’s current state. Not what he might be or what he was in the past, but how he is Now. The dog lives in Now; assess him in Now, support him in Now, train him in Now.

Source: Friends of the Dog

Teaching a Pup (or Dog) to Swim

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Swim

Teaching a Pup (or Dog) to Swim

Although this article is dedicated to teaching a pup to swim, the same procedure can be followed for an adult dog. ​

What people don’t realize is that a pup (or a dog) can either get under a pool cover of fall right through it if you have the type with the nylon webbing across the pool. It is far safer to teach your pup to swim.

In addition to this being a safety aspect, the dog can be exercised when you don’t have time to take it out for a walk by having a long swim. In the event of the dog developing hip dysplasia or similar, the dog can be exercised without putting any undue pressure on the joint. Dogs are basically land mammals and the majority of them are not born with the knowledge of how to swim so it will have to be taught. Dogs such as the Portuguese water dog and some retrieving breeds seem to take to water like the proverbial duck to water.

It is best to check with your own vet as to what age they recommend the pup learns to swim as there are many different opinions on this. The most important thing is not to rush this, take it slowly so that the pup gains confidence and does not panic. If you do have access to a stream or river that is shallow enough,  where the pup can chase you, run after a ball etc, do try this, it does make the introduction easier. If you have an existing dog that can swim, have the older dog go into the water first. Pups will often follow the lead of an older dog, but be with the pup and help to hold it until it is secure enough to swim by itself.

  1. Before the pup is of the age to start swimming, accustom it to splashing and playing in a child’s paddling pool or one of the plastic shell shaped sandpits. This will ensure that there is less fear when the pool work starts. A word of caution here, if the surface is very slippy, put some non slip rubber material at the bottom to prevent the pup slipping and falling.
  2. If the pup is going to be of middle or large size, wait till it can stand on the top step before starting the introduction to the pool.
  3. Get into the pool yourself and have somebody hand the puppy down to you. Let it stand on the step and with your finger on the collar, let it walk back and forward, even playing with a light ball, offering treats and praise. Don’t rush this stage, the more comfortable the puppy is at this state, the easier it will be to get it starting to swim.
  4. The next step is to step slightly away from the step holding the puppy with your hand under the pelvis and chest. Slowly lower it into the water facing the step (not letting go) keeping the head out of the water and the hindquarters and front legs free so that it can do the ‘doggy paddle’. As it gets its paws onto the firm ground of the step, say ‘step’ and go totally overboard with praise and play a bit at the shallow end Take this very slowly not increasing the distance until the puppy is totally comfortable. Bringing in the cue ‘step’ will get the pup to associate the way out of the pool.
  5. Practice this as often as possible, gradually building up the distance and staying in the pool yourself to supervise. Realize that if a pup does sink under the water, it will not come up by itself! I myself have brought in a command ‘swim’ whenever I allow Brady in the pool. This has resulted in having a dog that swims mostly on command. On a very hot day he will occasionally go for a dip himself, but it is an exception, rather than a rule.

In order that the pup retains this new skill, it needs to be practiced as much as possible. When the pup is really proficient and has matured a bit, you can start to have ‘fetch’ games in the pool.

The majority of pups will appear to splash and only use their front legs initially, rather than swim which is really not very effective, so make sure you are involved in the exercise sessions. Only one bad experience (one event learning) can result in a pup refusing to get back into the water.  If a pup is introduced to the water after 6 months of age, it seems to take longer to get used to it, so do start the preparation as young as possible.

Contrary to popular believe, not all dogs can learn to swim. It may be that the dog is overweight and breeds such as Bulldogs, Bull Terrier and the French bulldog are well known for swimming ‘like rocks”.  We have had three Bull Terriers over the years and despite repeated swimming lessons they never mastered the skill.

Another point owners should bear in mind is to start the pool work when the water and weather is warm. A lot of dogs don’t like cold water and it may not be the swimming they don’t like, but rather the temperature of the water.

Once your pup can swim

Now the fun never ends! Not only can swimming supply good exercise, the fun that dogs have, launching themselves (from the steps of course) in after toys that float that can be retrieved has to be seen to be believed.

 

Training a Shelter Dog

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Training a Shelter Dog

Some folks prefer purebreds, others delight in mixed breeds, but dogs of all shapes, and sizes, breeds and mixes can be adopted from animal shelters. And, with a little help from their friends, including some positive training and maybe a bit of problem-solving, most shelter-adopted dogs can become wonderfully loyal, loving companions.

Shelter Dog — Assume Damage?
Does adopting a dog from a shelter automatically mean you’ll be dealing with major behavioral issues? No, not necessarily. In fact, many dogs land in shelters for reasons quite unrelated to their behavior. Sue Sternberg, president of Rondout Valley Animals for Adoption, a privately run shelter in rural Accord, N.Y., reports that her shelter receives more dogs because of overpopulation and owners ignorance and financial problems than behavioral problems. Sternberg says of the dogs at her rural shelter, “Most of these dogs and pups have no behavioral or temperament issues whatsoever.” She notes that wonderful dogs can be found at shelters, particularly shelters with temperament evaluation and training programs.

In urban areas, in contrast, owner-related causes for relinquishment — divorce, allergies, moving, lack of time — are common as well, but behavioral issues are also fairly common. This may be a result of denser populations and stricter laws, which make canine misbehavior a bit more noticeable.

Becky Schultz, coordinator of animal training at the Animal Humane Society in Minneapolis, Minn., the fourth largest shelter in the United States, sees many dogs in need of education and socialization. Schultz says, “We receive about 20,000 animals per year, so it’s a busy place. Believe it or not, the main behavioral reason for surrender of dogs is [lack of] housetraining. We also see a number of problems relating to lack of basic training, like general unruliness, dogs not coming when called and destructiveness in under-stimulated dogs. Although these dogs surely need training, most have normal temperaments and are perfectly capable of learning better manners.”

Attitudes Can Help or Hinder
Sternberg points out that just because a dog is adopted, rescued or found doesn’t automatically mean it’s a problem dog. She says, “I think the most common problems with any adopted dogs come more from the perspective of new owners believing adopted dogs are somehow more damaged, abused or challenging than the dog purchased from a breeder as a pup.”

Sternberg notes that some people delay the start of training for their shelter-adopted dogs, thinking that the dogs will first need time to heal emotional scars. This is a common mistake, and it doesn’t help a bit. “It’s really not good for your budding relationship to think of your adopted dog as damaged goods. Make sure you don’t feel sorry for your new dog or dwell on its possible past,” says Sternberg. The dog doesn’t dwell on its past, only the present. We might wisely take a lesson from our dogs on this point.

Dogs from shelters are not inherently problematic — there are good dogs and troubled dogs in shelters, just as there are on the outside. It’s not fair to a shelter-adopted dog to lower your expectations of its potential. Just love it and train it and be in the present with it. “A dog lives in the moment, and moves forward from every interaction,” says Sternberg. Even if a dog has been abused, it matters not. Move forward with each dog and don’t fuss over its past — the dog doesn’t.

Training Needs
Shelter dogs have training needs similar to those of most other dogs: consistency, early and continual training, unambiguity and positivity. Sternberg says, “Typical training issues for shelter dogs are leash-pulling and jumping up. Even as a professional trainer, I would have to say those are the most common problems my own dogs have, too.”

As should dogs from any source, it’s important for the shelter-adopted dog to start learning the rules of its new home right away. Sternberg notes that a dog deserves to have clear limits and guidance and to have positive training from the beginning, which involves establishing rules and routines prior to the new dog’s arrival. “Rules should be determined before a dog enters the household,” she says, noting that dogs do best with consistent rules, confident owners and training that’s positive and fun.

Sternberg also emphasizes that training should begin as soon as you adopt the dog. It’s not all that important what you teach first; just get started. She advises, “Immediately start teaching your new dog anything — sit, come, its name. To help the dog learn what it’s supposed to do, give it rewarding attention for behaviors you like, such as settling down, not jumping and chewing its own toys instead of your belongings.”

The sooner you start teaching your dog, the faster the bond between you will strengthen. Schultz notes that positive training helps the relationship get off on the right foot. She also counsels owners to enroll dogs in a reward-based training class as soon as possible.

At Schultzs shelter they encourage new owners to enroll in training school within 30 days, offering them a discount for doing so. Having new owners in class allows Schultz and other shelter staff to help ease the dog’s transition into its new home. She says, “Positive training teaches dogs appropriate ways to get what they want and helps build a strong bond with the new owner. We can check in with them at least weekly that way to make sure everything is going okay.” The training classes allow Schultz to help owners resolve any problems with the new dog before things get out of hand.

Positive Training​
All dogs, no matter what their age or background, need to know what pleases and what displeases the people in their homes. They learn this most readily when appropriate behavior choices are consistently rewarded, the theory behind positive training. The more good (rewarded) behaviors your dog learns, the less inclined it will be to engage in bad (unrewarded) behaviors. Make it your goal to catch your dog being good as often as possible. You’ll soon find your dog offering more and more rewardable behavior.

Says Sternberg, “Rewards for desired behaviors should be generous, and intense and unrelenting.” Anything your dog really likes can be used as rewards. This includes treats, of course, but food isn’t the only good reward. Dogs also like games, toys, belly rubs and lots of other things. Figure out what your dog likes and start thinking of all those as potential rewards.

Two types of positive training — lure/reward and clicker methods — work well and can be used together.

With a lure/reward method, you guide your dog into position (sit, lie down, stay) by using a treat or toy as a lure. When the dog follows the lure into the proper position, it earns a treat or toy as a reward. For example, raising a treat slightly above your dog’s nose encourages a sitting position; lowering the treat slowly to the floor encourages the dog to lie down.

With the clicker method, you’ll make a sound to mark the instant the dog does what you want, then reward it with a treat or toy. Simple behaviors (like sit or lie down) can be quickly trained this way, but one great advantage of clicker training is that you can split complicated behaviors into smaller mini-steps, rewarding each step until your dog performs without hesitation. Once your dog learns the mini-steps, you can link them together in a sequence to produce the more complex goal behavior.

Lure and clicker methods work well together. Encourage the behavior by luring your dog, then clicking and rewarding it the instant the behavior occurs. The click informs your dog precisely which behavior earned the reward. Dogs quickly discover they can make you click by doing certain behaviors and will start offering those without being asked, hoping for a click and reward.

To prevent dependence on lures, however, phase them out as soon as possible. After your dog follows the lure several times, make the same hand motion, but without holding a treat. (Hold the treat out of sight in your other hand.) When you dog follows the motion of your empty hand, quickly drop the treat into that hand and reward the dog. This lets your dog know it can earn rewards whether or not it sees them.

Lure and clicker methods can be used together. The handler initially lures the dog to encourage desired behavior, then marks it by sounding the clicker at the precise moment the behavior occurs. This lets the dog know the instant it’s done right, and it’s then immediately given a reward.

Practice training each new skill in different settings with gradually increasing distractions. Your dog will learn it should do as it’s been taught regardless of the situation.

Training works best when blended into the context of daily life. When your dog asks for something — food, play, whatever — ask it to do something first, then reward by granting its request.

Treat rewards should be tasty but small, so you can reward many times without overfeeding your dog. High-quality dry dog food makes good training treats because it’s wholesome and the right size. Supercharge dry kibble by keeping some in a jar overnight with more highly flavored treats. The resulting trail mix will generate more interest than plain kibble.

Attention Training

Teach your dog to pay attention when you ask. Other training won’t work if your dog hasn’t mastered this command, so teach it first.

Step 1

  • Show a treat, then say an attention cue word that you will use consistently (the dog’s name or a word like “look” or “watch”) and raise the treat to the outer corner of your eye.
  • Click and treat when your dog’s eyes follow the motion of the treat to your eyes.
  • Repeat this step about 10 times.

Step 2

  • Palm a treat so the dog can’t see it.
  • Say the attention word and point to the corner of your eye with your finger.
  • Your dog’s gaze should follow the motion; click and treat when it does.
  • If your dog doesn’t follow the motion, lure with treats several times, then try again.
  • Repeat until the dog follows the motion of your finger quickly, then go to Step 3.

Step 3

  • Hide both hands behind your back.
  • Say the attention word once and wait for the dog to glance up. (Don’t repeat cue, just wait and watch.)
  • Give your dog a moment to puzzle out this new element. Most will look for your hands and then, not seeing them, glance questioningly at your face. Click and treat.
  • From then on, use only the verbal cue.

Teaching Basics

Sit:

Raise a treat slightly above your dog’s head. As it reaches up for it, it will sit. Click and treat. (If you raise the treat too quickly or too high, your dog may jump instead of sitting. Try luring lower and more slowly.) Use this trick whenever your dog wants something — first have it sit, then give it what it asked for.

Dog

Lie Down:

Step 1

  • Start with the dog sitting. Slowly lower a treat, allowing your dog to nibble on it on the way down. If your dog lies down, click and treat.
  • If it follows only partway or stands, try again, but lower the treat slowly and click and treat at the lowest point dog will go.
  • Each time lure farther down before clicking and treating.
  • When your dog lies down all the way, click and throw a party by giving several treats.

Step 2

  • Concealing a treat between your thumb and forefinger, straighten your other fingers so your hand is as open as possible. Lower the hand with the concealed treat.
  • When your dog follows, click and treat.

Step 3

  • – Eliminate the lure. Signal with an open palm and bring out the treat as a reward only after your dog lies down.

Come or Here:

Pick a time when your dog is already coming toward you and say come or here. Playfully back away several steps. Click as your dog begins to approach and treat when it reaches you. Do this 10 times a day at random moments.

Stay:

Have your dog either sit or lie down while you feed it 10 treats as fast as it will eat them. Then feed 10 more, but delay a second between treats. Gradually increase the delay. When your dog will wait five seconds between treats, introduce the following voice and hand cues for stay.

Hold your open palm toward the dog in a traffic stop gesture. Show your hand for only a second, then take it away. As you signal, also say “stay” in a calm voice.

Pause, then treat. Gradually wait longer between delivering the cue and the reward. When the delay between treats reaches 10 seconds, gradually add distance and distractions.

Loose-Leash Walking:

Clip the leash to your dog’s collar, say, “lets go,” and start to walk. If your dog races ahead, stop as the leash goes taut. Stand still until your dog stops pulling, then proceed again. If pulling continues more than three seconds after you stop, slowly back up.

When the dog notices it’s losing ground, it will turn and look at you, loosening the leash. Click, praise and start forward again. For most dogs, being allowed to walk forward is reward enough; some will even refuse treats in their eagerness to go ahead. Some dogs prefer a treat and walking forward. Be sure to reward your dog with something it actually wants.

Polite walking takes practice and repetition. Your dog will eventually realize that pulling activates your brakes, not your accelerator. Note: if your dog’s strength outmatches yours or it pulls so hard it gasps, talk to a trainer about a head collar. This dog-sized version of a horse halter works by passive restraint and leverage, not pain or force, to gently turn the dogs head to the side when it pulls. Although the collar is painless and safe, some dogs take a while to accept wearing one.

Good Manners

Patience: Teach patience at feeding time. Put your dog’s dinner in its bowl, then, instead of serving it, leave the bowl on the counter and go sit down. Ignore the dog for 10 minutes. After that, get up, call your dog and give it dinner.

This strategy is also useful for other highly charged events, like a walk or ride. Get everything ready, put on your walking shoes or grab your car keys, pick up your dogs leash, then sit down and read for 10 or 15 minutes. After that, tell your dog “Okay, lets go,” and take it on the outing you promised. Your dog will learn that all things happen in their own time and will develop patience.

Politeness to guests: For good manners with visitors, teach your dog to sit or lie on a mat near the door when people arrive. Involve guests in the training process, having them ignore your dog when it’s pushy and pet or give treats when it’s polite.

Preventing food guarding: Some dogs are possessive of food and may growl or snap if they fear losing it. Your dog needs to understand that having people around while it’s eating is a good thing. The following techniques teach that people are food-bringers, not food-takers.

  • Feed your dog some of its dinner by hand each day. (Have all household members do this.)
  • Feed only half of the dog’s ration, then pick up the empty bowl, add the second helping and serve.
  • Talk quietly and gently stroke your dog while it’s eating, and then drop a few goodies into its bowl.
  • Take away the bowl while your dog’s eating, add delicious goodies and give it right back.

The vast majority of adopted shelter dogs have pretty much the same issues related to lack of training that any dog might have. The cure for lack of training? That’s an easy one: Training! Schultz says, “Teaching to walk nicely on leash, sit politely for greeting, and what’s legal to chew and what they should avoid is important to all dogs. Most shelter dogs just needed somebody to spend the time teaching them appropriate behavior.” Now yours is lucky — it has you.

Source: Friends of the dog

10 Easy Things You Can Do To Make Your Dog Happier

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10 Easy Things You Can Do To Make Your Dog Happier

We always want to make sure our dogs are as happy and healthy as they could be, but we sometimes get stuck thinking we’re doing everything we can do. There are always new ways to spice up your dog’s life and some owners might not even be covering the basics. Here you’ll find 10 easy ways to make your dog happier.

#1 – Rotate Toys

Some people only have one or two toys out at a time, while others have every toy the dog has lying around the house. Just like people, dogs can and do get bored with toys and enjoy new things. This doesn’t necessarily mean you need to constantly buy new toys. Just put your dogs toys on rotation and when they seem to get bored of what’s out now, put them away and bring out an old toy your dog forgot about. Trust us, it works!

#2 – Go on Walks

Going on walks isn’t just good for exercise, it’s good for your dog’s mind. Dogs need to get out. Imagine if you were stuck in the house all day for your entire life. Sure, you might take your dog out sometimes, but most people don’t take their dogs out enough. Daily walks are an important part of your dog’s physical and mental health. They get to experience new things, get excited and sometimes meet new people and they’ll burn some energy. Plus, it’s a peaceful way to spend some quality time with your pooch. 

#3 – Train Obedience

Teaching basic obedience will make life better for both you and your dog. You can teach it yourself, hire a private trainer or go to group classes. No matter what you choose, your dog will enjoy learning the rules and boundaries that make them a good house dog and neighbor and they’ll burn a lot of mental energy from thinking. Trained dogs are happy dogs because they know how to keep their owners happy as well as themselves. 

#4 – Teach New Tricks

Even if your dog isn’t the next obedience or agility champion, they certainly have plenty of room to learn new things. Teaching your dog a new trick is a great way for you to spend time together, plus you’ll be providing your dog with a lot of mental stimulation and yummy treats. And remember, old dogs can learn new tricks, so don’t be afraid to try something new with your senior!

#5 – Maintain a Healthy Weight

Many pet owners have been taught to believe this dog is way too skinny – but the truth is that she’s in excellent shape!

Some owners feel this is counterintuitive because limiting our dogs’ food intake means they won’t be able to eat as much as they want. Sure, this might be true, but your dog will likely try and eat his entire bag of kibble before he thinks he’s full. The reality is that a healthy weight will keep your dog happier because he’s going to be healthier and feel better. Excess weight is uncomfortable, increases body temperature, limits their day to day playtime and puts them at increased risk for a multitude of medical conditions.

#6 – Play More

Even if it’s just 10 minutes a day, getting some playtime in with your dog will build your relationship and allow you both to have fun. Dogs get bored and they want to play, even if they’re older, so don’t hesitate to try and enjoy some new toys! If you have a dog that isn’t that interested in toys, you can play with food by making your dog find hidden treats or chase your hand around to get one.

#7 – Be Consistent

The biggest problem dog trainers see with clients is inconsistency. Just like people, dogs need consistent rules and boundaries for them to understand what behavior is acceptable and what isn’t. Dogs that are constantly being scolded for things they didn’t understand were wrong are always unhappy dogs. Not only does the dog receive unclear and inconsistent punishment, they feel their owner’s stress and anxiety towards them. It’s a bad situation no matter how you look at it.

#8 – Give Them a Bath

While your dog probably doesn’t need to be bathed every week, regular bath it will keep them feeling fresh and clean. Not only will you also be more apt to pet your dog because they smell better and feel cleaner, you’ll be getting rid of any allergens that might be on your dog’s coat. You’ll also be getting any pesky fleas off!

#9 – Verbal & Physical Praise

Praise is so important to maintaining a relationship with your dog. Verbal and physical praise mean telling your dog how good they are and petting them. They don’t even have to be doing anything particularly well and it doesn’t have to be in training. Spending time petting and praising your dog even for a couple of minutes will make them feel comfortable, secure and loved. 

#10 – Try New Treats

Just like rotating toys is a good idea, rotating treats is too! Most dogs have a few different favorites that can be used on rotation and trying new treats to add to the mix is great too. Your dog will certainly love guessing which snack is coming next and you’ll get to find out their favorite flavors and textures!

Source:  Friends of the dog

Help – my dog has gone missing!

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Help – my dog has gone missing!

Your worst nightmare comes true, you arrive home from holiday only to discover that your beloved dog is missing. What do you do?
(In all the following, give out your contact information and if possible offer a reward)
​
PREVENTATIVE MEASURES

One of the worst times of year for missing pets is the period between Christmas and New Year as well as Guy Fawkes, and Diwali. This appears to be due to the amount of animals that are fearful of the bangs and crackers and in desperation run, just to get away from the noise or are feeling insecure about being alone at home. Make arrangements that your pet is never left alone in the garden or house at this time – arrange for somebody to spend this time with your dog in your home or for your dog to stay with somebody.  If your dog is outside, fit a Pet Door so that the dog can get into a sectioned off part of the home. As an additional preventitive measure, contact a behaviourist who can help your pet get over its fear of storns/noises. www.animal-behaviour.org.za. Arrange with your vet for medication to help your pet cope. 

All pets should be micro-chipped. This gives vets, shelters and similar organizations the opportunity of finding out immediately who the pet belongs to. This is a simple procedure and should be done as soon after getting your pet as possible. There is even a micro chipped ‘cat flap’ available now.  

Many people advocate that pets should wear collars giving your contact information. Due to the high instances of dogs that are strangled when their collars catch on the top of a gates and walls when trying to run away, not all owners are in favour of this method. There are special collars available that will snap if the pet gets caught on an object, but these are not fool (dog?)proof. Also, there is the possibility that the collar may come off, leaving the person who finds your pet with no contact information.  If you’re pet is the type who goes ‘walkabout’ a micro-chip is a necessity, as well as contacting a behaviourist to learn how to stop or  the ‘walkabouts’ and address why they are happening.
 If you have not booked your pet into a kennel or cattery for the holidays, have a responsible person staying in the house to look after your pets who will not be going out on Christmas and New Years Eve, in the event your dog stresses when there are fireworks around. Kennels and catteries fill up very quickly and it is important to make your booking well in advance. Always visit the kennel before booking to ascertain that it is up to your standards. 

  • Have a file available at home with all the contact information of the local vets and rescue shelters in it, as well as a recent photo of your pet, which can be used by the house sitter or a friend or family member to help  search for your pet during your absence if it does stray – perhaps keep a copy of this with you as a safeguard.
  • If you have good relations with your neighbours ask them to keep an eye out for your pet and if they see it in the street to follow your requests on what to do. Leave them with a picture and all contact information. 
  • If your have a contract with a security company, arrange with them that if the pet goes missing, you can send  them all the information on your pet and ask them to look out for it and follow your instructions. ​  ​
  • Let your local vet know that you will be going away and who is responsible for your pets while you are gone.
  • Check your boundary walls or fence for holes and gaps and make sure that all gates open and close correctly.
  • Simple measures such as the above can safe a huge amount of heartbreak and stress, and you will enjoy your holiday that much more knowing that you have done all you can to safeguard your pet.
  • Phone all the local vets and also surrounding areas – it has happened that somebody has picked up a dog and taken to their own vet which may be in a suburb close by. 

Contact all the SPCA’s and the Animal Anti-Cruelty Leagues, even those not directly in your area, stray pets are often taken to a shelter which is know to the person who helped. If possible, go and visit the rescue shelters. I have seen instances where owners have been told that their dog is not there, only to find the dog safe and sound at the shelter. This happens in the case whereby the owner may describe the dog as a Collie/Lab cross, and the shelters interpretation of what the dog looks like, is a bit different!

  • ​Place a free advert n your local paper and a local daily publication. At the same time check the ‘found’ section daily in these publications.​
  • Many of the breeds, have their own rescue centres. If your breed falls into one of those categories contact them as well.
    ​Look up  organizations which send e-mail featuring ‘lost dogs’ on the internet and Facebook such as Missing Pets. Just type in ‘missing’ on Facebook and you will find most of the pages. Check these a few times a day.
  • Check with all the neighbours in your street and as many streets around you as possible.
    ​If none of the above lead to the recovery of your pet, you need to take your search further, as soon as possible.
  • Put up posters of your vet at local vets, pet shops, supermarkets, on trees, billboards, robots, intersection, garages and at any parks near you or any open spaces where a dog could wander.  
  • Visit all the local animal shelters and look for yourself and leave them a picture of your pet. We do not always see animals in the same way and a wrong description could be given. 
  • Keep on checking the vets, shelters daily and visit as often as you can to look at any pets recently brought in. 
  • Keep your advert in the local papers. 

PREVENTATIVE MEASURES

One of the worst times of year for missing pets is the period between Christmas and New Year as well as Guy Fawkes, and Diwali. This appears to be due to the amount of animals that are fearful of the bangs and crackers and in desperation run, just to get away from the noise or are feeling insecure about being alone at home. Make arrangements that your pet is never left alone in the garden or house at this time – arrange for somebody to spend this time with your dog in your home or for your dog to stay with somebody.  As an additional preventitive measure, contact a behaviourist who can help your pet get over its fear of storns/noises. www.animal-behaviour.org.za. Arrange with your vet for medication to help your pet cope. 

All pets should be micro-chipped. This gives vets, shelters and similar organizations the opportunity of finding out immediately who the pet belongs to. This is a simple procedure and should be done as soon after getting your pet as possible. There is even a micro chipped ‘cat flap’ available now.  

Many people advocate that pets should wear collars giving your contact information. Due to the high instances of dogs that are strangled when their collars catch on the top of a gates and walls when trying to run away, not all owners are in favour of this method. There are special collars available that will snap if the pet gets caught on an object, but these are not fool (dog?)proof. Also, there is the possibility that the collar may come off, leaving the person who finds your pet with no contact information.  If you’re pet is the type who goes ‘walkabout’ a micro-chip is a necessity, as well as contacting a behaviourist to learn how to stop or  the ‘walkabouts’ and address why they are happening.

If you have not booked your pet into a kennel or cattery for the holidays, have a responsible person staying in the house to look after your pets who will not be going out on Christmas and New Years Eve, in the event your dog stresses when there are fireworks around. Kennels and catteries fill up very quickly and it is important to make your booking well in advance. Always visit the kennel before booking to ascertain that it is up to your standards. 

  • Have a file available at home with all the contact information of the local vets and rescue shelters in it, as well as a recent photo of your pet, which can be used by the house sitter or a friend or family member to help
  • search for your pet during your absence if it does stray – perhaps keep a copy of this with you as a safeguard.
  • If you have good relations with your neighbours ask them to keep an eye out for your pet and if they see it in the street to follow your requests on what to do. Leave them with a picture and all contact information. 
  • If your have a contract with a security company, arrange with them that if the pet goes missing, you can send  them all the information on your pet and ask them to look out for it and follow your instructions. 
  • Let your local vet know that you will be going away and who is responsible for your pets while you are gone.
  • Check your boundary walls or fence for holes and gaps and make sure that all gates open and close correctly.

Simple measures such as the above can safe a huge amount of heartbreak and stress, and you will enjoy your holiday that much more knowing that you have done all you can to safeguard your pet.

Blind Dogs

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Blind Dogs

  • Try not to move furniture around or leave obstacles on the floor
  • Remember we take things so much harder than they do and they also pick up on our emotions. So try to express “happy” emotions around your blind baby
  • Emphasize the senses they still have:
    • A blind dog/pup-their sense of smell, hearing, taste and touch
    • A blind/deaf dog-their sense of smell, taste and touch (they can feel  vibrations-especially when you walk). 
  • Ask people to let your dog “smell” their hand before touching them. Most blind dogs personalities don’t change. Some dogs however can easily become “startled” and this could also lead to fear biting in some dogs.
  • Try to treat them as normal as possible. Building their confidence is key to letting them know they can still do things and that you still love them….let them know they are still the same dog in your eyes. For a blind pup it can be the basis for what type of personality they will developed.
  • Coax, encourage and praise them to do the same things they did before. However, understand and still praise them if they “can’t”.
  • Be creative with different scents to mark areas for your blind babies–just make sure its safe for them. You can use different scents of flavored extracts or even something as simple as hanging a car air freshener or potpourri sachet on a door. Using different scented candles in each room may also help your dog distinguish from different rooms in your house
  • Use textured materials to mark areas. Throw rugs and decorative pillows are great (and people don’t even realize their “Real” purpose). Indoor/outdoor carpeting, wind chimes and something as simple as cedar chips or decorative bricks or blocks can help guide them along their way outside.
  • Use bells or jingling tags on your other dogs.. not only help your blind babies to find/follow your other dogs, but will also avoid them from being startled by your other dogs. You can also use bells on your shoes to help them find you
  • Don’t be afraid to walk with a “heavy foot” when approaching them especially with a blind/deaf baby….they can still feel vibrations.
  • Don’t under estimate the power of touching and massage.
  • Be very vocal with your dog.
  • A tabletop fountain can be used as a water bowl. Get a simple one with a large bowl and the sound of running water helps to orient the blind dog and helps him to find his water bowl as well as know where he is from the sound. Some dogs like drinking from running water too! This can be especially helpful if you have to move to a new home with a blind dog.

Source:  Friends of the dog

Hot Spots – How to Care for Your Dog’s Painful Inflamed Skin Sores…

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Hot Spots – How to Care for Your Dog’s Painful Inflamed Skin Sores…

What are Hot Spots?

Canine acute moist dermatitis is a form of canine pyoderma also known as “hot spots.” Hot spots are red, moist, irritated patches of skin often caused by an initial irritation and then exacerbated by bacterial infection. The irritated patch can double in size within hours and can become very painful. Common sites of lesions are the head, neck, hips and limbs. Matting of fur, hair loss, scabbing and oozing are often seen. Hot spots seem to be common in long-haired dog breeds and are more prevalent during summer months in times of high temperature and humidity. Hot spots are the result of a bacterial infection. Your dog’s skin becomes irritated and the dog starts itching, licking, or both, eventually causing a red, ugly, oozing sore. Technically hot spots are referred to as acute moist dermatitis or superficial canine pyoderma, usually localized to a specific area. The sore can only be treated by focusing on the underlying infection.

Symptoms of Hot Spots in Dogs

Symptoms of a hot spot may include one or more of the following:

  • Itchy, painful patch of skin
  • Continual chewing or licking at site
  • Abnormal aggression (associated with painfulness of site)
  • Possible depression (associated with painfulness of site)
  • Inflammation, redness, and swelling in a localized patch of skin
  • Crusted scabs or oozing sores
  • Dry scaly skin Hair loss
  • Moist, matted fur
  • Foul odor from lesion

Causes of Hot Spots in Dogs

Possible causes of initial irritation can be any one of the following:

  • Flea allergies
  • Cuts or abrasions
  • Ear infection/anal gland infection
  • Foreign objects (splinters/thorns)
  • Food allergies
  • Matted fur
  • Insect bites
  • Chewing or licking due to stress or boredom​

Process

 
  • Hot spots on dogs are the result of an imbalance in the normal bacteria (Staphylococcus intermedius) on the skin.
  • The bacterial imbalance is most often brought about by some initial irritation that the pet bites or scratches at repeatedly.
  • Biting and chewing can introduce bacteria from the mouth and nose to disrupted hair follicles at the site of irritation.
  • Moisture and heat from matted hair, summer warmth and humidity or open scrapes or cuts can further exacerbate bacterial growth
  • Bacterial growth cause the body immune response to react, resulting in more itching, heat, redness, inflammation and pain.
Diagnosis of Hot Spots in Dogs

If you notice your pet is showing symptoms of a hot spot, you may try an over the counter medication to clean and treat at home. Since hot spots are painful and can worsen within a matter of hours, it is advisable to schedule a visit to a clinic to receive proper treatment.

The veterinarian will take a thorough history and conduct a physical exam to determine the initial irritant. It is important to let your veterinarian know when the onset of symptoms began and any unusual circumstances that may have led to the irritation so the doctor can identify possible allergens or stressors and address them in treatment.

The area will likely be shaved and cleaned to determine severity and size. Shaving and cleaning is also necessary to properly clean and air the lesion. In cases where other forms of pyoderma are suspected, the veterinarian may examine bacterial samples under the microscope or culture a sample for diagnosis.

Treatment of Hot Spots in Dogs

Cleaning

The lesion must be cleaned thoroughly. Matted fur should be shaved off and away from the affected area. Because this can be quite painful, it is a good idea to bring the pet to the veterinarian where nurses can clean and shave the area. Some level of sedation may be necessary. A topical antiseptic such as chlorhexidine can then be used to clean the lesion.

Treating Bacterial Infection

Topical and/or oral antibiotics will often be administered. Antibiotic treatment may last 4 weeks or longer.

Treating Initial Irritation

Some cases of hot spots are idiopathic (the cause is unidentifiable). More commonly, allergies to fleas, pollen or food are identified with a history and examination. Monthly flea treatments or hypoallergenic diets can address allergies. Regular grooming or keeping fur cut short can prevent matting, a common cause of skin irritation. Anxiety-induced chewing and licking can be lessened by introducing toys or chews and exercise and play.

Medications for Pain and Inflammation

Antihistamines may be prescribed to reduce itchiness and irritation. NSAIDS can be prescribed to reduce inflammation. A short acting corticosteroid may be administered one time to make the patient more comfortable and promote healing. Gentamicin/Betamethasone sprays are often prescribed to spray on the lesion daily.

Dietary supplements

Essential fatty acids may be suggested for pets prone to skin conditions.