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My Dog Attacks Other Dogs at Gates

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My Dog Attacks Other Dogs at Gates

One minute your sweet loving dog is lying relaxing in the sun outside, or playing happily with your other dog, and the next minute he is tearing down to your gate, looking like he is going to kill the dog walking by with his owner – how dare he come near my gate, just not acceptable, I will make sure it does not happen again – the behaviour says!

This behaviour does not only occur at gate – you may have a dog that is inside the house, and a security gate is preventing it going out, or it occurs when the dog is looking out the window – in all these situations, the dog tends to go bananas as another dog walks by. 

This is not an uncommon event with dogs, and in dog behaviour terms is known as either barrier aggression, fence aggression or barrier frustration. What is interesting with dogs that behave in this manner, is that often they are totally friendly and sociable with other dogs they meet – not all however!

Why Does This Behaviour Occur?

Very often a combination the factors below could be the reason. 

  • Frustration is a common reason – it could be that the normally friendly dog is totally frustrated not being able to go and say hello, however, the behaviour can easily and quickly escalate. 
  • Frustration and Boredom – the dog may not be receiving sufficient physical, mental or even social interaction. It has found a great way of entertaining itself, although we humans and the dog and owner on the other side of the gate may not find it entertaining!
  • Fear – yes fear can be a factor! Approximately 98% of aggressive behaviour is due to fear, just the behaviour exhibited has gradually increased from perhaps a growl until it looks like a full blown attack taking place. Think about this from a dogs point of view – if I appear big enough, nasty enough, the threat will leave!
  • Owner inadvertently reinforcing the behaviour by shouting, screaming at the dog – remember that to a dog, attention is attention, whether negative or positive!
  • Previous experiences. The dog may have been attacked himself when he was out with his own owner, and by exhibiting the aggressive behaviour the dog is trying to ensure it will not happen again – he is behind a gate, so is safe.

​Can this behaviour escalate?

Most certainly yes, and these are some of the things that can occur:-

  • The behaviour can become more and more extreme. Each and every time this aggressive behaviour occurs it tends to escalate, and again, from a dogs point of view, the perceived threat left, so the behaviour worked and will be repeated.
  • There are other dogs in the home and they come down to see what is happening and start to bark and act up as well. The initial dog’s arousal levels may get so high that it will exhibit what is called redirected behaviour, and in total frustration will turn on the other dog. This can end up with serious consequences. 
  • The owner tries to interfere to stop the dog – dog turns on the owner and a bite can ensue – the arousal levels have just gone so high that the dog is reacting, not thinking at all. 
  • Not all dogs walking by will accept the aggressive behaviour and may react with aggression in return. This increases aggression in both dogs and the likelihood that they will become aggressive to other dogs when out for walks, and even other dogs in the home.
  • If it is a small dog on the other side of the gate and it is reacting back and there is a gap in the gate at the bottom, or the bars are set wide apart, the small dog can be pulled under the gate or through the bars – this happens, and mostly when it is one of the fighting dog breeds involved. 
  • The gate may open unexpectedly! One of two things normally occurs in this situation – either the aggressing dog will run back towards the house, or heavens forbid he will go through the gate and a serious fight ensues. It is not unusual in these circumstances for the owner walking the other dog to be bitten trying to stop the fight – this is a serious and very dangerous situation. 
  • When engaging in gate aggression, both adrenaline and cortisol are surging through the dogs body and it is in an aroused state and may even be over threshold. Although the behaviour may stop, it does take time for the adrenaline and cortisol levels to drop, and there is always the chance that the aggressive behaviour could occur in another situation.

Not all owners realize that instances such as above can occur and it is of the utmost importance that behaviour such as this is stopped immediately.

Management and Prevention

  • Deny the dog access to the gate – put the dog in another area of the garden where it cannot access the gate.
  • Often suggestions are made to put shade cloth or similar against the gate so that the dog cannot see outside. In some instances this will help to prevent the behaviour, however, with some dogs it can actually increase the frustration.
  • If a situation where the dog goes nuts when inside but is prevented by going outside by a security gate – either keep the main door closed, put shade cloth or similar over the gate to prevent the dog seeing out. 
  • If the dog is engaging at the behaviour at a window, keep the dog out of this room, or shut the curtains. 
  • Ensure that the dog is receiving regular walks and mental stimulation such as safe chew toys, digging pits

We believe any situation where aggression is in place, that a professional should be called in and below will give you an idea of the work that may be done to change the behaviour. 

Changing this Behaviour

We believe that all aggression should be handled by a professional behaviourist, and one with sufficient experience. A trainer is not a behaviourist, and neither is somebody that has done an on-line course over a few months. Becoming a behaviourist involves at least 2 – 4 years of study – understanding dogs – how they think and act, in-depth knowledge of body language, practical experience, understanding of stress, arousal, threshold, triggers that could be contributing towards the behaviour, as well as knowledge of all the modifications that can be used. It is up to the owner to request a copy of the behaviourists qualifications to ensure that they are entrusting their beloved dog to somebody that has the knowledge and experience to change the behaviour and that the behaviourist works only with positive reinforcement methods. Anybody that suggests alpha rolls, jabbing, aversive equipment such as shock collars etc, should be totally avoided. These are the old fashioned methods of working with dogs, and can cause untold long term harm and totally damage your relationship with your dog. 

The first thing the behaviourist will do is to determine why the behaviour is actually happening, and that the dogs mental, physical and social needs are being met. They will also examine your overall relationship with the dog and see if any factors in this regard are contributing to the behaviour and show you how to change same. 

After the above has been examined and any modifications needed brought in, the behaviourist will probably use a method called counter conditioning. Simply put, counter conditioning involves changing the way a dog feels about something – they are going to change the trigger (the dog on the other side of the gate) with something the dog loves – food, and not just regular old kibble, something delicious such as biltong or liver bread or some other favourite treat – this will change the dogs feelings towards dogs going by the gate. 

The owner will probably be given knowledge and tools to be able to call the dog back successfully in the event it does dash towards the gate. 

What is important, is that if a dog is engaging in this behaviour, that owners get help as soon as possible – the longer the behaviour is in place, the longer it can take to change, and the more difficult it can be. 

Source: Friends of the dog

Helpful Tips for Walking Your Dog

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Helpful Tips for Walking Your Dog

Before you got your pooch, you likely imagined walking a dog would be a wonderful experience of long relaxing strolls, exploring neighbourhoods and hiking trails. In those pre-dog fantasies, your four-legged sidekick likely trotted obediently by your side on a leash, following your every command and looking at you adoringly.

Then you got your dog and the fantasy disappeared. Why does my dog have to stop and pee on everything? Why does he have to stop and sniff every blade of grass? It can be frustrating, but don’t hang up the leash!

After all, walking a dog is important to their health and happiness. Walks keep your dog agile and limber and can help relieve issues like constipation, according to PetMD. Regular walks also help keep your dog from gaining unwanted kilos. Walking a dog can also go a long way toward reducing or eliminating destructive behaviour. Dogs who haven’t had enough exercise–who feel pent up or have extra energy–can turn to digging holes in your yard or chewing everything from your shoes to your couch cushions.

Walks with you also strengthen your bond with your pooch and give them a chance to meet and interact with other people and dogs in a controlled environment. Having a dog that is socialised is very important. Socialised dogs are typically happier and friendlier than unsocialised dogs, who can be anxious and fearful around new humans or animals.

And we haven’t even talked about how walking a dog impacts your health! A study from Michigan State University and reported by the New York Times found 60 percent of dog owners who took their pets for regular walks met the federal criteria for regular moderate or vigorous exercise, with almost half of dog walkers getting an average of 30 minutes of exercise a day at least five days a week. In comparison, only about 30 percent of people without dogs got that much regular exercise.

But what is with your pup’s strange habits on your walks? Let’s take a look at some weird (and annoying!) things dogs do on the leash, why they do them, and how you can work to reduce the issue.

Dog Peeing while Walking

Why your dog does it: Dogs are territorial, and urine is a natural way a dog can mark their territory. It communicates to other dogs that they have been there. Marking usually begins in puberty.

What to do: First, consult your vet. You want to make sure the fact that your dog stopping to relieve himself every few meters is, in fact, related to marking and not because of a health issue such as a bladder infection. If it’s a behavioural issue, you can train him to reduce his need to mark as much, but it might be impossible to get him to stop it all together. Also, dogs that have not been spayed or neutered have a larger tendency to mark territory than those that have.

Rolling in the Stink

Why your dog does it: When you encounter a dead animal, garbage, or anything else stinky, does your dog stop, drop, and roll? While it’s not known exactly why dogs have this disgusting habit, one train of thought is that it’s a trait inherited from wolves. They roll in the scent then take it back to their pack for further investigation.

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What to do: Keep your pup leashed on walks (this is an important tip regardless of whether they like to roll in filth or not). Train them to recognise the command “leave it,” then reward with a treat when they do. Never pull hard on the leash to yank them away from the smelly object to avoid injuring your dog.

Pulling on the Leash

Why your dog does it: Because you’re moving too slow! Because you’re moving in the wrong direction! Because he wants to!

What to do: This behavioural issue can be fixed with proper training. Use treats and positive reinforcement to get your dog to follow your pace instead. If you have a dog that pulls, you can also try a head or body harness.. A harness may help keep your dog from pulling away from you while leashed while causing less stress on their neck or spine. Also, giving them less slack on the leash will help train them to stay close to you while walking. The more lead they have, the more they think that they have permission to explore the surrounding area causing them to pull on the leash.

Lying Down and Refusing to Move

Why your dog does it: They could be hurt, sick, or just plain tired.

What to do: Examine your dog. Are their paws rubbed raw? Is the cement too hot? Are they too hot? Let them rest and give them a drink. If that doesn’t work and there’s no obvious signs of injury, coax your buddy home with treats. Keep in mind your dog’s abilities and exercise needs before embarking. An English bulldog, for instance, will likely have much different walk expectations than a Labrador retriever. Never force walking. If they truly aren’t having it, come back and try again later. Forcing your pooch to walk when he doesn’t want to could lead to injury. If it becomes a chronic problem, consult your vet to see if there is a larger health issue of which you might not be aware.

Walking Back and Forth

Why your dog does it: A dog’s nose is much more powerful than yours. You can’t sniff all the exciting smells of other animals and humans that he does. He’s following scent trails when he’s zigging and zagging in front of you and probably not even noticing he’s tripping you.

What to do: Teach your dog to walk at a heel and on a certain side of your body. You can use verbal cues and treats to teach your dog how to walk nicely on a leash. However, a dog thoroughly enjoys sniffing so giving him an opportunity to do so when you’re both comfortable is a nice thing to do for your pup. Again, keeping the leash short and close to you will help reduce this behaviour and hopefully keep you from getting tripped up.

Biting the leash

Why your dog does it: Your dog is soooo excited that you’re taking them on a walk that they have to release that energy somewhere. Suddenly your leash becomes a tug-of-war toy.

What to do: Teach your dog to relax at the sight of his leash rather than get overly excited. VetStreet offers some tips like training him against being too rambunctious and rewarding him when he sits and stays nice and calm when you break out the leash.

Going on a walk is likely to be one of the highlights of your dog’s day. By training your pup and understanding why your dog does what he does, you can enjoy your daily rambles just as much as your dog does. Always keep in mind that a walk is just as important and fun for your dog as it is for you. So, while his habits might be a little annoying sometimes, understand that it’s also okay to let a dog be a dog… just maybe not roll in stinky things.

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Mastering the art of dog walks

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Mastering the art of dog walks

Optimize dog walks for you and your dog with these essential tips.

Walks are essential for the well-being of canine companions and when done correctly, with the right attitude, they can also be very beneficial for us. It is a commitment responsible pet parents make.

Walks are an opportunity for dogs to:

  1. Relieve themselves.
  2. Move their bodies and get exercise.
  3. Get fresh air.
  4. Help with weight control.
  5. Reduce anxiety, boredom, and depression.
  6. Interacting with their environment and “earthing”.
  7. Socialize with other humans and dogs.
  8. Strengthen their bond with you.

The truth is that most dogs don’t get nearly the amount of exercise they need, resulting in many canine companions becoming obese. Pet guardianship means committing to keep your pet healthy and moving, rain or shine (or snow).  Keep in mind, that for most dogs, a walk is great, however, they need at least three days of 20-minute plus heart-pumping exercise per week, which will likely be achieved more by fast activities or running, rather than walking. 

Set the stage for a lifetime of good walks for you and your canine companion!

  1. Get the right gear for your dog’s needs and get them used to it.
  2. Train your dog to follow loose lead and reduce your dog’s urge to pull.
  3. Explore the different types of walks and make it fun.
  4. Be mindful of the common mistakes we can make when going for walks.
  5. Take safety precautions.

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1. THE RIGHT GEAR

Investing in quality gear, not only enhances safety but also makes walks more enjoyable for both you and your furry companion. Start young/early and slowly. They should be accustomed to wearing the gear before you attempt to take them for walks.

HARNESS, COLLAR, AND LEAD

For your dog, a well-fitting harness or collar is crucial, as it provides comfort and control while minimizing the risk of injury. A sturdy leash, preferably one with a comfortable handle and appropriate length, allows you to maintain control and guide your dog effectively. Even if off-leash, always pack their harness and leash and include an ID tag.

Every dog should have their own secure-fitting flat collar (no choke or pinch collars, please) and an ID tag.

I always advocate for a Y-harness as collars may cause injury to the neck and soft tissue. However, a harness won’t work if your dog does not have loose lead walking skills or training. In a dog’s forward movement, a harness with a ribbon crossing their chest from side to side hinders them, in the same way humans would be bothered hiking with a rubber band holding their arms. Physiological movement of the front limb is inhibited.  Check out this video on the harness and read more on The Paw Company’s page, by searching harness.

I prefer a strong lead of about 1.5 m and advise against retractable leashes as they are more prone to create injury and be a safety hazard, they break, and you have less control.

Make sure your ID tags are legible and have updated contact numbers on.

Other gear may include:

  • Muzzles are not only for aggressive dogs as they can also be used for those dogs who like to eat anything on the road. Muzzle training is important for emergencies too.
  • Reflective gear for both of you if you walk during darker hours.
  • Wear comfortable, supportive shoes yourself and weather-appropriate clothing to stay dry and protected.
  • Consider carrying essentials such as water, waste bags, and a first-aid kit for unexpected situations.
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2. TRAINING TO WALK

Here are some walk-training tips from Dr. Karen Becker.

Training Your Dog to Follow on a Loose Lead

Initial walks should be short for most puppies — the main goal is to get your dog used to being attached to you by a lead. Find a safe environment and allow the puppy to drag the line behind him for a bit, then pick up the opposite end. Let him lead you around for a few seconds while you hold the line just off the ground. Slow down so he’s forced to slow down, ultimately to a stop. Take a short break for praise and a little playtime.

Next, let him trail the line again, but when you pick up your end this time, call him and stand still. If he pulls, hold your ground without pulling him in your direction. The goal is to teach him to put slack in the line himself by moving toward you. When he puts slack in the line, praise him and call him to you.

If he comes all the way to you, give him more praise and a training treat. If he stops on his way to you, tighten the line just enough to apply a tiny bit of pull to it. Immediately call him to come again. Give praise as he moves toward you and treats when he comes all the way back. Two or three repetitions is all many puppies need to understand lack of tension in the line is what earns praise and treats.

When your pup has learned to come towards you to relieve tension on the line, you can begin backing up as he comes toward you to keep him moving. Next, turn and walk forward so he’s following you. If he passes you, head in another direction so he’s again behind you.

The goal is to teach him to follow on a loose lead. Once you’ve accomplished the goal, you can continue to use the light line or replace it with a leash.

Depending on your pup’s temperament, 5 to 15-minute sessions are sufficient in the beginning. Practice controlling him on the lead for 30-second intervals during each session. Exercise patience and don’t engage in a battle of wills with your pup. Don’t snap, yank, or otherwise use the line for correction or punishment. Stop before either of you gets frustrated or tired.

After each short session on the lead, liberally praise your puppy and spend a few minutes playing fetch or some other game he loves. Remember: you’re building the foundation for an activity both you and he will enjoy and look forward to throughout his life.

Reducing Your Dog’s Urge to Pull

Dogs pull for various reasons including but not limited to:

  • It is unnatural to be attached to a leash. They are not meant to walk like robots next to us.
  • They move faster than us and by pulling their human moves forward.
  • Excitement.

It is unrealistic to expect them to never pull!

If your little guy or girl just doesn’t seem to be catching on to the loose lead thing, don’t despair. Some puppies and untrained adult dogs stubbornly fight the “pressure of the line” rather than create slack.

If your puppy freezes on a taut line or consistently pulls against it, it’s important to use a halter or harness rather than a collar attached to the lead, because she can create serious neck and cervical disk problems for herself by pulling against a collar/leash combination.

Next, make sure you’re not part of the problem. Our human instinct is to hold the leash taut, so you must also train yourself to move in ways that keep slack in the line. A dog’s natural response to a tight line is to pull against it. Once you’re sure you’re not contributing to your pup’s refusal to create slack in the lead or move toward you, do the following:

  • Maintain tension on the line and turn your back to her. Allow time for it to occur to her she can’t win by pulling against you.
  • Remain still with your back to her holding the tension in the line — don’t jerk it, don’t pull, or yank her toward you, and don’t put slack in the line yourself, as this will show her that the way to get slack is to pull at the line, which is exactly the opposite of what you’re trying to teach her.

The message you want to send to your pup is that pulling on the lead doesn’t accomplish a thing. It doesn’t change the scenery, it doesn’t get you moving in a direction she chooses, and it doesn’t earn praise or treats. Eventually, she’ll stop doing what doesn’t work, especially when she’s consistently rewarded for desirable behaviour.

From the very first moment you begin leash training, make sure your puppy accomplishes nothing by pulling on her line. It takes some dogs longer than others to learn to keep the leash loose, but with patience and persistence, any puppy can learn to follow a loose lead.

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DIFFERENT KINDS OF WALKS 

I have learned a lot about the different kinds of walks from Dr. Karen Becker. Here is what shes shares:

Once your furry companion has acquired good leash manners and both of you look forward to your walks each day, consider changing up the routine to keep things fresh and fun.

  1. Purposeful walks — These are typically short and have a specific goal, for example, walking your dog to her potty spot.
  2. Training walks — These walks can be about improving leash manners and learning basic or advanced obedience commands. Remember to take some healthy training treats.
  3. Mentally stimulating walks — Most leashed dogs don’t get to spend nearly as much time sniffing and investigating as they would like, so allowing your pet some time to explore is good mental stimulation for her.
  4. Sniffaris — During these mentally stimulating walks, your dog takes the lead, you follow, and he gets to sniff whatever he pleases.
  5. Power walks — Power walks keep your dog’s frame strong, and his weight in check, and help alleviate arthritis and other degenerative joint diseases. These walks can also be an essential method for ensuring your dog gets enough exercise. Your dog may be pumped up after such a walk, so prepping some post-walk-enrichment (like a food toy, licking, etc.) can help them wind down.
  6. Walks with friends — If your dog is comfortable around other dogs, consider meeting up with neighbours or friends with dogs for social group walks.
  7. Different dog-walker walks — Everyone walks a dog a little differently, so the more members of your household who walk your dog, the more variety she’ll enjoy.
  8. Change-of-scenery walks — Instead of heading outside in the same old direction, instead, buckle your dog in and drive a few blocks away or to a neighbourhood park or nearby hiking trail for your walk.
  9. Decompression walks – The idea is to reduce the dog’s stress and anxiety by providing a calm and controlled environment where they can use their natural behaviours. These walks often involve a slower pace and a focus on allowing the dog to make choices about where to go and what to explore, rather than following a strict route or pace.

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ALTERNATIVES FOR REACTIVE DOGS

When you do suburban walking, the other dogs barking, are not them “saying hello”, it is more like “death threats”. For reactive and anxious dogs this won’t be beneficial. For some guardians, walks then become stressful too. In such cases, it may do more harm than good, to commit to that walk.

Ways to improve the walk for a reactive dog (R+Dogs):

  • Avoid the triggers (still work on them later)
  • Let them sniff more
  • Build their confidence
  • Skip the walk
  • Get professional help

Here are some alternatives for physical and mental stimulation:

  • Active games
  • Dog puzzles and toys
  • Dog play dates
  • Online training (for you)
  • Scent work where you hide things for them to find in your home or yard
  • Obstacle course in your yard

AbsoluteDOGS has a game for everything!

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4. COMMON DOG WALKING MISTAKES

  • Ignoring your dog or multi-tasking — Unfortunately, there are pet parents who do everything but, pay attention to their dogs during walks. The activity becomes so routine that they do it without giving much thought to the furry fellow at the other end of the leash. This is a bad habit primarily because of the danger of what your dog can get up to if you are not looking.
  • Not allowing sniff time — Your dog’s most acute sense is their sense of smell. Remember that dogs perceive their world in a big way through scent. It is important to allow them to sniff during walks.
  • Choosing the wrong type of collar, harness, or leash — Many pet parents don’t realize the importance of choosing the right type for their dog.
  • Not taking advantage of the different types of walks, mentioned above, to keep things interesting for both of you.

5. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Here are some safety precautions to take:

  • Pack a mini first aid kit.
  • Take water for you and your canine companion.
  • Keep them hydrated and prevent them from drinking contaminated water.
  • Wear visible gear so the public can see you and reflective gear if you are walking during darker hours.
  • Watch out for dog snatchers who follow your walking routines as well as any other hazards.
  • Do not let young children or the elderly walk animals alone.
  • Go at their pace.
  • Protect their paws.
  • Puppy precautions.
  • Microchip and ID tags.

Let’s elaborate on a few:

Protect their paws – To protect your dog’s paws while walking, ensure you avoid hot pavement or rough terrain that can cause burns or abrasions. Before the walk, test the road/tar/ground temperature. If you can’t keep the back of your hand on the ground for 5 seconds then it is too hot for their paws!Opt for early morning or late evening walks when the ground is cooler, and consider using dog booties to shield their paws from very harsh surfaces if neccesary.

Regularly check their paws for signs of injury or irritation, and keep their nails trimmed to prevent discomfort. Additionally, applying a paw balm can help moisturize and protect their pads from drying out or cracking. I also do a paw-soak after walks with filter water and apple cider vinegar. Taking these precautions can keep your dog’s paws healthy and comfortable during walks.

Puppies – Discuss with your veterinarian when your puppy’s immune system is strong enough to go for walks. This is usually after they had all their initial vaccinations. Also, discuss with your vet when running and jumping will be appropriate for your puppy, when we look at bone growth.

Microchip and ID tags – Make sure your dog is microchipped and registered on multiple databases as well as wearing an ID tag.

KEEP IN MIND

  • If you are having trouble with the walk, get professional help. This could be a trainer if your pet just never learned to walk on a leash properly or a behaviourist if there are other underlying issues like anxiety or reactivity.
  • Leash manners are important, even with the right gear.
  • Sterilized dogs will likely be less distracted or distracting for other dogs.
  • Although walking is a great activity, some breeds might not be getting enough exercise for cardiovascular health through just a walk. For others, you might have to start slower for shorter distances. Remember to take precautions when running. Start slow, go at their pace, and be cautious with growing dogs, old dogs, and those from certain breeds or with certain conditions.
  • When going for hikes, make sure your pet is up for it, you have enough water, the trail is dog-friendly and never let your dog chase any wildlife.

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Yellow ribbon – Be mindful of fellow walkers. Never allow your dog to just approach another dog, even if they are friendly, and especially not when that dog is on a leash because they might be fearful, reactive, aggressive, in pain, not child-friendly, in training or recovering from an operation. The yellow ribbon on a dog’s collar or leash is a sign to other people, that the dog needs some space and that you need to proceed with caution. Never take away another dog or their owner’s choice to interact or not. Always ask permission from the owner and most importantly from the dog.  Help us spread the world on this!

The most important thing you can do to ensure a lifetime of enjoyable walks with your canine companion is to help them learn to be the perfect walking partner and be one too. As Dr. Karen Becker says: “One of the most important gifts you can give your dog whenever you interact with him, including on walks, is your undivided attention.”

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin – Animal 101

Over 300 paws are taking to the Sea Point Promenade

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Image provided by Mdzananda Animal Clinic

Over 300 paws are taking to the Sea Point Promenade

Humans and four legged friends are invited to strut their stuff at the sixth Paws on the Promenade – a dog walk fundraiser by the Mdzananda Animal Clinic, Khayelitsha, in partnership with Vondi’s Holistic Pet Nutrition. After a two-year break due to Covid-19, the event is back by pawpular demand.

The dog walk will take place on Sunday the 29th of October at 9am. Starting at the Mouille Point lighthouse, the five-kilometer route will extend to the Sea Point swimming pool and back. Shorter turnaround points for old, tired and injured pets (or humans) will also be available.

“Our 2020 Paws on the Promenade was a great success with an attendance of 352 dogs. On a budget of just R3500 we raised R48 400. We hope to raise even more funds with this year’s event. This, however, all depends on how many wonderful dogs and humans join us for the walk,” says Marcelle du Plessis, Fundraising and Communications Executive and event organizer.

Image provided by Mdzananda Animal Clinic

The Mdzananda Animal Clinic is an NPO animal clinic in Khayelitsha township serving up to 1500 animals per month through consultations, hospitalisation, general and orthopaedic surgeries, continuous sterilisations, mobile clinics, an animal ambulance and homeless pet shelter. They also set a priority on community empowerment and education to ensure people become responsible pet ownership into the future.

“Our budget keeps growing year on year due to the demand for our services. It is essential for us to diversify our fundraising. Paws on the Promenade is a great fundraiser but also a magnificent fun filled event for the whole family,” says du Plessis.

Expect to see dogs of all shapes and sizes. “People get very creative, dressing themselves and their dogs up in costumes,” says du Plessis. There will be Dalmatians in tutus, Dachshunds in hot dog outfits and Pomeranians with bow ties.

“For the past six years Vondi’s has partnered with Mdzananda in making this event possible. It is one of our highlights of the year,” says Paul Jacobson, owner of Vondi’s Holistic Pet Nutrition. “The route is one of the most scenic routes in Cape Town making it a wonderful walk for dogs and owners alike. We support Mdzananda because of their excellent professionalism and the impact they make in the Khayelitsha community, educating pet owners and treating sick pets that would otherwise have little to no help.”

Everyone is invited – humans without four legged friends are welcome too. A small number of homeless dogs for adoption will be at the event. To “rent a dog” email marcelle@mdzananda.co.za.

Tickets cost R50 per person, R50 per dog and R25 for kids under 12. These are available from Quicket www.qkt.io/pawsonprom2023 or on the day from 08:00. 

Raffle prizes, products sales, delicious coffee, food and crafts will entertain you on the day. The first 100 dogs to arrive will also receive a free goodie bag.

All pet owners are encouraged to dress up in Halloween style or to wear something orange, the Mdzananda Animal Clinic brand.

For more information visit www.mdzananda.co.za or join our Facebook event at https://www.facebook.com/events/684433263576057

Source: Mdzananda Animal Clinic

Dog walking 101 – happy trails make for waggy tails

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You’ll be hard-pressed to find a pooch that doesn’t love their leash time. In the South African sun, walkies with your pet is almost the order of the day.  Now you can take walkies to the next level with these 3 simple tips for stress free leash time from Melissa-Rae Lourens, Founder of Kreature Comforts.

Get your good boy used to his collar

You can’t just strap him up and get ready to roll, you must get your dog used to some of the items that will become regular features of your walkies time. If you have a new puppy, let him wear his collar around the house until he seems comfortable. Then add the lead for him to get used to for short amounts of time while you’re playing or giving him treats (remember to never leave your pup unattended with a lead on though). Then take the fun outside! There will be new challenges with this step because all the sounds, smells, and sights your puppy encounters will be intriguing and new to him.

Soon enough though, if you’re patient and keep walks short and reward him with treats, he will get used to it and even get excited when you get it out of the cupboard because he knows what to expect. Start him out with this Incredi-collar which has a classically comfortable design.

Let her leash the way

Your pretty pooch may not like being leashed up in the beginning because there is so much to see and do, but a good leash is incredibly important to keep her safe while on a walk. Between traffic, other dogs and all the other distractions you may encounter, ensuring a strong leash ensures their – and your – safety. It’s natural for a curious creature to pull the leash, but resist the urge to pull back, yank or jerk the leash, and never drag your dog along by it. If she does pull, simply stand still and refuse to move until she comes back to you. She will soon learn how to keep a steady pace right by your side.

It’s important to choose a leash that is strong and sturdy, made from tough materials and is comfortable for her and for your hands. A swivel clasp will also go a long way to helping you avoid getting tangled if your doggo starts to dance with excitement. This is going to be an every-day activity after all, so comfort is key. Check out the Incredi-leash for its ergonomic design.

Harness the power of the harness

Ok, we know you’re not walking a horse but harnesses are for dogs too, believe it or not. A harness is super comfy for dogs during walks because they’re generally easier going than a collar. On long walks there is less pulling on your dog’s throat and neck and they also help prevent the leash getting tangle in your dog’s legs. The biggest benefit is the shift in pressure from the neck to a much larger part of your dog’s body so back pain is alleviated. A dog in a collar can also often wiggle out of it and run into danger or get lost, whereas a dog in a well-fitted harness is safer from escape because it’s harder to get out of. And finally, harnesses are great for older dogs who may need a bit more love and support to keep them on their feet.

Choose a harness that has two attachment points to accommodate the mood your dog may be in that day, like this Incredi-Harness.

Before you even get your dog on the leash, it’s important to highlight just how much our dogs need their walks. Aside from being a super fun adventure of sights, sounds and smells for them, it also provides much-needed exercise time. Unfortunately, studies have shown that 20% of us don’t walk our dogs every day.

Our dogs love life and thrive when they get regular walkies. It’s fantastic for their mental and physical health; and hey, you benefit too when you’re up and moving – it’s a win-win-woof-woof experience, so unleash the leash and make it a habit.

Source: Kreature Comforts