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Why Does My Dog ….. Cock Her Head?

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Why Does My Dog ….. Cock Her Head?

It’s a classic dog move: Your pup hears something — a mysterious sound, a smartphone ring, a certain tone of voice — and suddenly her head tilts to one side as if she is contemplating what the sound wants from her. Internet videos of the behavior attest to its commonality — and to the fact that so many dog lovers find it so entertaining. Once you realize how your dog reacts to, for example, a question — “Who’s the best girl?” — it’s hard to resist repeating it over and over, just to see your already-adorable dog up the cute factor by cocking her head to the side. It’s like she’s puzzling out the precise meaning of your words.

Or is she? What’s really happening when your dog tilts her head?

 
​The Better to Hear You With

The head tilt, although not fully understood, might actually signify your dog’s attempt to make sense of what she hears. Dr. Meredith Stepita, a diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists now practicing at East Bay Veterinary Specialists in Walnut Creek, Calif., explains that some experts believe that dogs tilt their heads when they think there is a possibility that what is being said could lead to something important to the dog — an activity they enjoy, for example. Since dogs can understand some human language, including words and tone of voice, a head-cocking dog could be concentrating on picking out a key word or inflection that relates to that favorite activity. So your dog may cock her head when you start talking about taking her for a walk or giving her a bath or playing a game of fetch — whatever it is that she loves to do.

Dr. Stepita notes that the way dogs hear plays a part as well. Dogs have movable earflaps that help them locate the source of a sound. In addition to moving their ears, says Dr. Stepita, dogs’ brains “compute extremely small time differences between the sound reaching each ear. Even the slightest change in the dog’s head position relative to the sound supplies information the dog’s brain uses to figure out the distance of the sound.” So, when a dog cocks her head, she could be trying to more accurately determine the exact location of a sound, specifically the height relative to the ears, adds Dr. Stepita.
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Put these elements together and it seems pretty likely that dogs naturally engage in this behavior and then repeat it when reinforced. “If the dog is praised by the owner for cocking her head, she will be more likely to cock her head in the future,” says Dr. Stepita.

 
Is Head-Tilting a Sign of Intelligence? Or Something Else?

So is your head-tilting dog smarter than her canine peers? Although there are anecdotal reports of dogs with long, floppy ears being more likely to cock their heads in response to noises than dogs with erect ears, Dr. Stepita knows of no studies that associate the head cock with any specific classification of dog like breed, age or intelligence. She also notes that some experts have reported that dogs with certain socialization problems are less likely to engage in the head tilt when people speak.

While it’s easy to assume something as cute as your dog tilting her head at you is always benign, it is important to speak with your veterinarian about any behavior that could have a medical cause, including a head tilt. “A dog that consistently or even intermittently holds their head to the side, especially without an obvious external trigger present (i.e., a noise), may have a medical problem,” says Dr. Stepita, These types of health issues range from brain disease such as infection, inflammation, cancer, etc, to an ear problem such as infection, lodged foreign object or other mass. Only a veterinarian can rule these out.

Written By: LINDA FIORELLA – www.vetstreet.com

Source: Friends of The Dog

Oh No – Storm Season Again!

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Oh No – Storm Season Again!

I was on the radio and the subject of storm fear was being discussed. A listener phoned in and said “what is the big deal it is only some bangs and flashes” – my reply – ‘how would you feel if you had a phobia about spiders and were forced to go into a room with them and could not get away from them’? Needless to say the listener had no more to add!
 
Storm fear, especially when it has developed into the Phobia stage can be a terrible condition for a dog to have. This condition can vary from the dog just hiding away, perhaps trembling or being a bit anxious, right through to full blown phobia where the dog may run in circles and defecate and urinate in absolute terror, or even try to escape by jumping over a fence or go straight through a window – often closed. I hear at least 3 to 4 reports per year on dogs that hung themselves by the collar trying to get over fences and gates to escape – storm phobia is a very serious condition and should not be taken lightly.
 
What many owners do not realize is that the dog that rushes outside, barks, turns circles and acts a bit like a clown is actually a dog that is not coping and the odds are that this behaviour will gradually become more fearful.
 
What is a dead cert is that this condition will not just go away by itself – it will get progressively worse and other fears can often develop. 
 
The Use of Medications 

  • If the condition is severe get help from your vet as your dog may need something stronger – after all would you take an everyday headache medication for a migraine? Some of the meds your vet may consider could be Clomicalm, Prozac, Zoloft and on occasion Xanax. 
  • On the natural side my own preference is the FOTD Behaviour Sprays (previously Avalon Pure Storm Phobia Spray) – absolutely brilliant and will not interfere with any other medication your dog may be on – in fact we were so impressed by them that when the owner retired we took them over! Other options are Pheromone Collar, CalmEze, or Melatonin. It is always a good idea to check with your vet especially if your dog is on any other medication. 

As many owners have discovered, meds by themselves will seldom reduce the dog’s fear or solve the concern, the behavioural aspect and helping the dog to cope has to be looked at as well.
 
Helping Your Dog
 
In addition to below, a canine behaviourist will bring in further changes to help your dog to cope and if the condition is severe, please do get professional help (www.animal-behaviour.org.za). It is important to bring in the new changes you have made the second the dog starts to react to the storm and this could be as much as an hour before. Dogs actually react to the changes in the Ions and the thunder, lightning and rain seem to be further influences.

  • Outside Dogs – bring them inside! Just being with people and away from the terrifying noise immediately reduces the fear and prevents the dog trying to escape the property. This is not always possible so make sure a garage or storeroom is left open for the dog, to place inside a kennel (wooden if possible as these seem to reduce the noise of the storm more) and that a blanket is left partly over the top of it to provide a safe hidey-hole. Place a wad of newspapers on the floor to further deaden the noise. Spray this area and the dog daily with the Storm Fear Phobia Spray.  Until the dog is brought inside it is doubtful, even with modifications that this dog will totally overcome its fear. 
  • Don’t pander to the fear the dog is showing -The most important aspect is not to pander to the dog during the storm with any excess of attention at all – all this will do is make the dog think that there really is a problem and be more likely to reinforce the fear. I am not saying ignore your dog – of course not, it is scared stiff – rather just have the dog sitting next to you or walking around the home with you. I have found that with some dogs doing a bit of TTouch while the storm is on is really beneficial but it must be done in a casual manner – not paying any more attention or showering the dog with love and cuddles. Reward the dog with praise and treats for any lessening of the fear behaviour. 
  • Create a Safe Place – Dogs normally feel more secure when they have an area they can hide away from the storm. This is based on a dog’s natural ‘den’ instinct. Under no circumstances should a dog be forced into a safe place, it must be the dog’s choice. Place a blanket or an old item of clothing of yours in the safe place. Dogs often feel more secure when they can be near our scent. Ideas for safe places – bathroom, in a cupboard, under a bed, behind a chair or curtains, in a crate. 
​​Ensure that your dog has easy access to this safe place at all times and get into the habit of allowing the dog to chew on a nice  bone, such as a cow femur,  which it is only allowed to have when in the safe place. Chewing can actually lessen the amount of stress that a dog is feeling. The dog only gets this bone when it its safe place.
 
Another place that appears to be especially helpful is to place the dog in a car parked in a garage – but bear in mind that you should stay with the dog and if the dog will chew on a bone, let it chew happily in the back seat.

​Since we started using the Avalon Pure for Dogs Storm Phobia sprays (now FOTD Dog Behaviour Sprays), we find that spraying the area the dog is staying in and any blankets is an additional help.

  • Exercise – According to the National Institute for Health and Clinical Excellence in the UK, exercise increases brain serotonin functions in humans and it is believed that it has the same effect on dogs.  
  • Any owner of a storm phobic dog should keep an eye on the weather forecast and if it is likely that there will be storms occurring take the dog for a long walk or engage in a vigorous game with the dog long before the storm approaches. This should help to balance the serotonin levels and help the dog to cope.
  • White Noise – The sound of music or a TV is often helpful in assisting a dog to cope with storms, so too is laughter and singing, so sing along to the music. It has been proven that when humans smile and sing our own stress levels are lowered and this, in turn, will help your dogs. Some dogs seem to prefer happy, upbeat music and others more on the classical side. There are even Lullaby CD’s you can buy for dogs on the internet. 
  • You’re Reaction – Absolutely crucial! Especially in the case of an owner that starts to stress even thinking about their dogs reaction to a storm as they see the skies darkening and the dogs behaviour starting to change. Our dogs pick up not only on our body language, but also on our emotions, the changes in our own pheromones etc and they will pick up and react to our own fear. If you need medication to relax yourself then consider a natural option or visit your doctor. As mentioned in the section above, dance, sing, act like a clown – do whatever it takes to help your dog cope and this should relax you as well. 
  • Curtains – simply closing the curtains to keep out the flash of lightening can help many dogs, especially if accompanied by White Noise as above.  Try taking the dog to another part of the home where it may be further away from the effects of the storm. 
  • Counter-conditioning – Basically giving the dog something else to do when storms are around to help it cope. This is one of the most effective ways to help a dog. When there are no storms around, the owner gets into a daily pattern of playing with the dog at the approximate time storms normally occur. Ideas are an inside game of throwing a soft ball up and down a passage, a game of pullies or similar. What we are doing here is to get the dog to engage in an acceptable behaviour rather than an unacceptable one and by doing this we are turning the approach of a storm into a pleasurable experience, rather than a fearful one. As soon as the dog shows signs that a storm is approaching, you get out the toys, turn on the radio and engage in a game. What is important is that these special toys are only used for practice or during a storm as these will then assume great important to the dog and it will be more likely to engage and play.
  • TTouch – Due to the major positive changes we have experienced in all dogs I have worked on using TTouch we would say that all dogs with Storm Fear should have TTouch done. These TTouches influence habitual patterns of tension and by giving new information to the nervous system it allows the animal to relax. It will go a long way to lessening stress levels and helping a dog to cope. The TTouch should be done daily when there are no storms around. Even just doing some ear strokes on the ears can help to reduce the stress as per the diagram below. For further info www.ttouch.co.za

storm

  • Wrap – In addition to the TTouch body touches, applying what we TTouch practitioners call a Wrap, which is a simple Ace elastic bandage that is placed loosely across the dogs chest, crossed over the back, taken under the tummy and secured with a nappy safety pin, can help our dogs cope. Without going into the scientific reasons why this helps to lower stress it can easily be described as being similar to a Receiving Blanket that is put on a new born baby. It gives a sense of security and is helpful in any stressful situation as well as enhancing the dog’s sense of its own body.  The Wrap also tends to touch certain Acupressure points on the dog which will further help to relax the dog. If you do not have access to a Wrap, putting a simple stretch T-shirt on a dog and tying a knot at the bottom, will help.
  • Another addition to the Wrap that is proving very successful in many cases is to either put on 3 drops of both Chamomile and Lavender Essential Oils to the Wrap before applying to the dog. Alternatively, you can apply some of the Avalon Pure Storm Spray (now FOTD Dog Behaviour Sprays) to the wrap. Never leave your dog unattended with a wrap on.
     
    A Thundershirt can be used which is brilliant for some dogs. It is very similar to a dog jacket and helps the dog to feel more secure but has the stretchiness of the Wrap at the same time. This really does seem to make a big difference with many dogs, providing a feeling of security and comfort. 

storm

Desensitization:  Here the pet’s response to the fearful stimulus is decreased while it is exposed to increasing levels of the fearful stimulus when there are no storms around. Where storm or firework fear is involved you would use a tape or CD of a storm (or record one yourself) and slowly and gradually expose your pet to a higher volume. In theory this is an excellent way to help your pet, but unfortunately, with storm fear, the tape or CD does not record the changes in barometric pressure or static electricity, but it will help to lessen the fear response. 
 
As with all behavioural problems, there are unfortunately no guarantees that the problem can be rectified completely. It depends on several factors such as the severity, how long the dog has had the problem, whether other behavioural problems are present, the modifications undertaken, the dog itself and most of all the amount of time an owner is prepared to work on the problem. In such a small space it is impossible to go into the details that this subject deserves but at least this gives you a starting point and do not be afraid to get professional help if needed – your dog deserves it. Good luck!

Written By: Scotty Valadao – Canine Behaviourist & TTouch Practitioner
www.scottysdogs.co.za
First appeared as an article in Canine Zone 2015

Source: Friends of the Dog

To Tug or Not to Tug

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To Tug or Not to Tug

Ripping out plants, pulling bedding out of kennels or tugging on your couch is very enjoyable for your dog. 

The tug-stimulation they get from these behaviours are intrinsically reinforcing; so why not provide appropriate alternative outlets for the dogs enjoyment, rather than letting the dog reward himself in the form of unwanted behaviours.

A lot of trainers advise us not to play tug because it can teach him to be aggressive or to be ‘dominant’. However a daily structured -tug-game is not only a great energy diffuser, but it can also teach him to control himself, teach good bite-inhibition and he learns to comply with commands while aroused, which is something a lot of dogs struggle with. The added bonus to us is, that the dog gets his tug stimulation form us and not from the environment. In the context of play, social limits and rules are much more readily accepted and incorporated into everyday interaction.

Play promotes a sense of joyful harmony and trust between people and dogs and stregthens the relationship.  
There are however a few rules that need to be implemented to ensure safe tug games between owners and their dogs:

  1. Have a nice long rope toy to prevent the dog from accidentally grabbing your hand.
  2. The tug toy is the only tug toy and is kept away and only brought out for tug-sessions and put away afterwards. Tug is not played with other toys or items such as ‘stolen items’ i.e. socks or clothing.
  3. Teach your dog a reliable ”take-it” and ”give” cue. Don’t allow him to jump up at you and try to grab the toy before you have given him permission to take-it. Ask him to ‘sit’ and wait for him to calm down before resuming.
  4. If he does not comply to ‘give’ then you need to do more seperate training sessions in which you teach ‘give’. During play his reward for giving/letting go is the opportunity to tug again.
  5. If he grazes your hand with his teeth, say ‘ouch!’ and turn your back to him and ignore him for a few seconds. This way he learns if he bites your hand too hard, the fun stops. Resume play after about 10 seconds or wait for him to calm down first.
  6. Occasionally you could let him win.
  7. Play growling is allowed. Some breeds such as Staffies and other terriers make gurgling-growly sounds, that can sound pretty startling to someone that is not familiar with the breeds. Any serious growling, or refusing to let go of the toy ends the game immediately.
  8. Small children should not be allowed to play tug as they cannot consistently keep to the rules to ensure the dog’s arousal levels stay low, they can be pulled over and might not be strong enough to ‘win’ most of the tugs. Adults should keep the game at calm enough levels so that the dog can still comply with the cues.

 Besides being a fun activity for you and the dog, it also teaches him a few things, in a fun way!

 Play is a great activity to bond with your pet and him to you! 

Guest Subscriber –  Claire Grobbelaar DipCABT (COAPE, UK) NOCN, CertCAB (Tech Pta).TTouch Practitione www.canineconcepts.co.za

Source: Friends of the dog

Why Teaching Your Dog The Emergency Stop Is So Important

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Why Teaching Your Dog The Emergency Stop Is So Important

An emergency stop is an important command for your dog to learn as it can be used in urgent situations that need immediate intervention.  

For example, this could be used to stop your dog from running up to a potentially reactive dog, running across the road, or if your dog has become overstimulated How to calm down an overstimulated dog. The command helps to get their focus back to you and can stop a situation from escalating.

To teach the emergency stop, we will be using food as a reward. It’s helpful to find what motivates your dog, such as a high value treat like chicken or cheese.  ​

Step 1
Start with your dog a small distance away from you. Using a treat or verbal cue, encourage your dog to come towards you. As they do, raise a treat up high above your head.  
Before they reach you, throw the treat behind your dog so that they stop, turn back and fetch the treat. Continue practicing this until your dog starts to slow down or stop when you raise your hand, anticipating the treat.

Step 2
You can now introduce a verbal cue. Repeat step one, but this time say ‘stop’ as you throw the treat. You should see that your dog will expect the treat to be thrown and will prepare to stop and turn to get the reward.  

Keep practicing this until your dog stops immediately when you hold your hand up and say ‘stop’.

Step 3
Continue practicing, but now when your dog stops, walk over to give them the treat. This will encourage your dog to hold their stop position, rather than relying on you to throw the treat behind them.  

Remember, the aim is for your dog to stop in their tracks and stay where they are.

Step 4
Now you can start to increase the distance between you and your dog. With your dog at a distance from you, call them over and raise your hand and say ‘stop’. When your dog follows your instruction, walk up to them and reward them with a treat.
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Step 5
Finally, you’ll need to practice the behaviour in different environments and with added distractions, to ensure that your dog will reliably stop when asked, no matter what the circumstances.  
For example, if you have a friend to help you, get them to walk past your dog. Using your verbal cue and hand signal, encourage your dog to stop. If they end up following the friend, your dog may need some more practice.  
Once you’re more confident, you can also try practicing in various locations. If you’re worried about practicing an emergency stop in a new environment, you could use a long line lead.

courtesy – www.battersea.org.uk
Battersea is one of the best known shelters in the UK. All shelters and rescue organizations really need our help. Please do all you can to support your favourite shelter – financial may not be an option, however, there are so many other ways to help – donating to their charity shop, baking or donating books or similar to help them raise much needed funds. Just take a little time and go any give a dog or cat some love – take a dog for a walk – ask them what you can do for them – they do soooo much for all the animals in their care!

Source: Friends of the Dog

My Dog Attacks Other Dogs at Gates

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My Dog Attacks Other Dogs at Gates

One minute your sweet loving dog is lying relaxing in the sun outside, or playing happily with your other dog, and the next minute he is tearing down to your gate, looking like he is going to kill the dog walking by with his owner – how dare he come near my gate, just not acceptable, I will make sure it does not happen again – the behaviour says!

This behaviour does not only occur at gate – you may have a dog that is inside the house, and a security gate is preventing it going out, or it occurs when the dog is looking out the window – in all these situations, the dog tends to go bananas as another dog walks by. 

This is not an uncommon event with dogs, and in dog behaviour terms is known as either barrier aggression, fence aggression or barrier frustration. What is interesting with dogs that behave in this manner, is that often they are totally friendly and sociable with other dogs they meet – not all however!

Why Does This Behaviour Occur?

Very often a combination the factors below could be the reason. 

  • Frustration is a common reason – it could be that the normally friendly dog is totally frustrated not being able to go and say hello, however, the behaviour can easily and quickly escalate. 
  • Frustration and Boredom – the dog may not be receiving sufficient physical, mental or even social interaction. It has found a great way of entertaining itself, although we humans and the dog and owner on the other side of the gate may not find it entertaining!
  • Fear – yes fear can be a factor! Approximately 98% of aggressive behaviour is due to fear, just the behaviour exhibited has gradually increased from perhaps a growl until it looks like a full blown attack taking place. Think about this from a dogs point of view – if I appear big enough, nasty enough, the threat will leave!
  • Owner inadvertently reinforcing the behaviour by shouting, screaming at the dog – remember that to a dog, attention is attention, whether negative or positive!
  • Previous experiences. The dog may have been attacked himself when he was out with his own owner, and by exhibiting the aggressive behaviour the dog is trying to ensure it will not happen again – he is behind a gate, so is safe.

​Can this behaviour escalate?

Most certainly yes, and these are some of the things that can occur:-

  • The behaviour can become more and more extreme. Each and every time this aggressive behaviour occurs it tends to escalate, and again, from a dogs point of view, the perceived threat left, so the behaviour worked and will be repeated.
  • There are other dogs in the home and they come down to see what is happening and start to bark and act up as well. The initial dog’s arousal levels may get so high that it will exhibit what is called redirected behaviour, and in total frustration will turn on the other dog. This can end up with serious consequences. 
  • The owner tries to interfere to stop the dog – dog turns on the owner and a bite can ensue – the arousal levels have just gone so high that the dog is reacting, not thinking at all. 
  • Not all dogs walking by will accept the aggressive behaviour and may react with aggression in return. This increases aggression in both dogs and the likelihood that they will become aggressive to other dogs when out for walks, and even other dogs in the home.
  • If it is a small dog on the other side of the gate and it is reacting back and there is a gap in the gate at the bottom, or the bars are set wide apart, the small dog can be pulled under the gate or through the bars – this happens, and mostly when it is one of the fighting dog breeds involved. 
  • The gate may open unexpectedly! One of two things normally occurs in this situation – either the aggressing dog will run back towards the house, or heavens forbid he will go through the gate and a serious fight ensues. It is not unusual in these circumstances for the owner walking the other dog to be bitten trying to stop the fight – this is a serious and very dangerous situation. 
  • When engaging in gate aggression, both adrenaline and cortisol are surging through the dogs body and it is in an aroused state and may even be over threshold. Although the behaviour may stop, it does take time for the adrenaline and cortisol levels to drop, and there is always the chance that the aggressive behaviour could occur in another situation.

Not all owners realize that instances such as above can occur and it is of the utmost importance that behaviour such as this is stopped immediately.

Management and Prevention

  • Deny the dog access to the gate – put the dog in another area of the garden where it cannot access the gate.
  • Often suggestions are made to put shade cloth or similar against the gate so that the dog cannot see outside. In some instances this will help to prevent the behaviour, however, with some dogs it can actually increase the frustration.
  • If a situation where the dog goes nuts when inside but is prevented by going outside by a security gate – either keep the main door closed, put shade cloth or similar over the gate to prevent the dog seeing out. 
  • If the dog is engaging at the behaviour at a window, keep the dog out of this room, or shut the curtains. 
  • Ensure that the dog is receiving regular walks and mental stimulation such as safe chew toys, digging pits

We believe any situation where aggression is in place, that a professional should be called in and below will give you an idea of the work that may be done to change the behaviour. 

Changing this Behaviour

We believe that all aggression should be handled by a professional behaviourist, and one with sufficient experience. A trainer is not a behaviourist, and neither is somebody that has done an on-line course over a few months. Becoming a behaviourist involves at least 2 – 4 years of study – understanding dogs – how they think and act, in-depth knowledge of body language, practical experience, understanding of stress, arousal, threshold, triggers that could be contributing towards the behaviour, as well as knowledge of all the modifications that can be used. It is up to the owner to request a copy of the behaviourists qualifications to ensure that they are entrusting their beloved dog to somebody that has the knowledge and experience to change the behaviour and that the behaviourist works only with positive reinforcement methods. Anybody that suggests alpha rolls, jabbing, aversive equipment such as shock collars etc, should be totally avoided. These are the old fashioned methods of working with dogs, and can cause untold long term harm and totally damage your relationship with your dog. 

The first thing the behaviourist will do is to determine why the behaviour is actually happening, and that the dogs mental, physical and social needs are being met. They will also examine your overall relationship with the dog and see if any factors in this regard are contributing to the behaviour and show you how to change same. 

After the above has been examined and any modifications needed brought in, the behaviourist will probably use a method called counter conditioning. Simply put, counter conditioning involves changing the way a dog feels about something – they are going to change the trigger (the dog on the other side of the gate) with something the dog loves – food, and not just regular old kibble, something delicious such as biltong or liver bread or some other favourite treat – this will change the dogs feelings towards dogs going by the gate. 

The owner will probably be given knowledge and tools to be able to call the dog back successfully in the event it does dash towards the gate. 

What is important, is that if a dog is engaging in this behaviour, that owners get help as soon as possible – the longer the behaviour is in place, the longer it can take to change, and the more difficult it can be. 

Source: Friends of the dog

Naughty Dog? Or Is it the dog or the owner?

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Naughty Dog? Or Is it the dog or the owner?

As dog owners, we often get more than a little frustrated at our dog’s behaviour – running through the house with muddy paws, stealing food, barking for no reason, rolling in poop, pulling on the lead, chasing birds, barging through doors…….the list can be endless!  And as much as we adore our dogs, there’s probably not one owner who feels their dog’s sometimes get on their nerves.

I started this article for Holidays4Dogs because I am currently looking after Buster, my son’s Springer spaniel.  Now, don’t get me wrong, Buster is a lovely dog but he frequently gets on my nerves!  As a dog trainer I know all too well that if you don‘t spend enough time training your dog – or at least attempting to convey to him what the rules are; you could well end up with an unruly house mate.

However, how to fix training issues isn’t really what this article is about – I want to focus more on how we view our dogs and more importantly, what we should expect of them.

Because I have trained dogs for a long time, I am probably guiltier than most of expecting too much from my dogs at times.  Sometimes perhaps, we need to step back and consider whether we are being totally fair on our dogs.

While we perceive some behaviours in our dogs to be a ‘problem’ – from the dog’s point of view these are simply natural and normal.  Research has already de-bunked the idea of the, ‘alpha dog’ – when your dog pulls you along on the lead, he is not in fact trying to take over your world, (which is what we often believe) – he simply wants to run and get to the wide open spaces faster!

All too often we think our dogs are being stubborn, naughty or deliberately disobedient – but in reality this just isn’t the case.  Dog’s aren’t humans, they don’t understand human speech and while science tells us that dog’s are capable of sensing human emotions, they don’t think or feel in the same way that we do.

Dogs do not understand human rules – they have to be taught.  Dogs don’t have any particular expectations either – they just do what dogs do and they see the world from their own point of view.

A dog will steal food because they are opportunists and because from a dogs point of view, its hard to resist something that smells so good; he will jump up to greet visitors because he is excited and wants to be near to people’s faces so he can greet them in a way he understands.

Certain breeds have specific traits too that could be seen as a, ‘problem’.  Herding breeds for example have an in-built instinct to herd and nip, but in a human environment they are apt to do this to people who move quickly, such as children.  Gundogs, such as Spaniels and Retrievers enjoy carrying things around the house – sometimes this means items such as shoes, socks or underwear!

While these behaviours are often seen by us as irritating or disobedient they are in fact typical inborn canine traits which are perfectly normal – they are not an indication that your dog is a delinquent with dubious morals!

Nobody is suggesting that certain issues should be ignored, because dogs do have to learn to fit in with our world.  However, it isn’t always easy for them to do this unless we motivate them in the right ways so they learn to understand the rules of our world.

I feel that most dogs do this very well under, what must be at times, very confusing circumstances.  We like to cuddle our dogs one minute, but then they are scolded for wiping hairs all over our dinner suits the next!  It is our responsibility to deal fairly with our dogs – they are, after all, a completely different species and they will always display behaviour that is specific to them.
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It is good to always try and look at things from your dog’s perspective and if you feel you need help with how your dog behaves at home – seek out the advice of a good trainer or behavourist who will be able to help you teach your dog in a kind and positive way, but never scold your dog for not understanding what the human rules are, if he hasn’t been taught what they are in the first place.

Dogs are quite amazing creatures and they are good at adapting to the human way of life and modifying their behaviour, while still meeting their own needs.  It is up to us as owners to help them achieve this balance rather than falling into the human trap of labelling them stupid, disobedient or naughty.

Source: Friends of the dog

Housetraining 101

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Housetraining

Housetraining 101

Housetraining your dog or puppy requires patience, commitment and lots of consistency – this is all new for your dog and you have to teach him or her what is expected. Accidents are part of the process, but if you follow these basic housetraining guidelines, you can get the newest member of your family on the right track in no time!

Establish a routine
Like little humans, dogs and puppies do best on a regular schedule. The schedule teaches them that there are times to eat, times to play and times to do their business. Generally speaking, a puppy can control their bladder one hour for every month of age. So if your puppy is two months old, they can hold it for about two hours. Don’t go longer than this between bathroom breaks or you’re guaranteed to have an accident.

  • Take your dog or puppy outside frequently – at least every two hours for puppies – and immediately after they wake up, during and after playing, and after eating or drinking.
  • Pick a bathroom spot outside, and always take your pooch to that spot. While he or she is relieving themselves, use a specific word or phrase that you can eventually use before they go to remind them what to do. Take them out for a longer walk or some playtime only after they have eliminated.
  • Reward your puppy every time they eliminate outdoors. Praise or give treats, but remember to do so immediately after they’ve finished, not after they come back inside. This step is vital, because rewarding your dog for going outdoors is the only way to teach what’s expected of them. Before rewarding, be sure they’re finished. Puppies are easily distracted and if you praise too soon, they may forget to finish until they’re back in the house.
  • Stick to a regular feeding schedule: what goes in on a schedule comes out on a schedule! Feeding at the same times each day will make it more likely that they’ll eliminate at consistent times as well, making housetraining easier for both of you.
  • Pick up the water dish about two and a half hours before bedtime to reduce the likelihood that they’ll need to relieve themselves during the night. Most puppies can sleep for approximately seven hours without needing a bathroom break. If your dog or puppy does wake you up in the night, don’t make a big deal of it; otherwise they will think it is time to play and won’t want to go back to sleep. Turn on as few lights as possible, don’t talk to or play with your puppy, take them out and then return them to bed.

Supervision is key
Don’t give your dog or puppy an opportunity to soil in the house; keep an eye on them whenever they’re indoors.

  • For the first couple of weeks, a new dog of any age should be supervised when he has the full (or even partial) run of the house. 
  • Watch for signs that your pooch needs to go out: barking or scratching at the door, squatting, restlessness, sniffing around or circling.
  • When you see these signs, immediately take them outside to their bathroom spot. If they eliminate, praise them and reward with a treat.

Mistakes happen
Expect your puppy to have a few accidents in the house – it’s a normal part of housetraining. Here’s what to do when that happens:

  • Interrupt your puppy when you catch them in the act and immediately escort them to their bathroom spot. Praise your pup and give a treat if they finish there.
  • Don’t punish your puppy for eliminating in the house. If you find a soiled area, the mistake is all on you and it’s too late to do anything about it. Just clean it up. Rubbing your puppy’s nose in it, taking them to the spot and scolding them or any other punishment will only make them afraid of you or afraid to eliminate in your presence. Punishment will often do more harm than good!
  • It’s more effective to clean up the mess and put it in the designated elimination spot, so the smell will help your dog recognise that this is where to go. Clean the soiled area thoroughly – dogs are highly motivated to continue soiling in areas that smell like urine or faeces. 
  • It’s extremely important that you supervise to minimise the number of accidents. If you allow your dog or puppy to eliminate frequently in the house, they’ll get confused about where they’re supposed to go, which will prolong the housetraining process.

Source: TEARS Animal Rescue

IMDT 2 Day Career International Accredited Education for Dog Trainers and Dog Lovers

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IMDT 2 Day Career International Accredited Education for Dog Trainers and Dog Lovers

IMDT 2 Day Career International Accredited Education for Dog Trainers and Dog Lovers

Dates: 15 & 16 April 2023 – Cape Town

Duration: 2 days. 09h30 – 15h30

VENUE: 15 – 16 April to be held In Cape Town

The 2 day Career As A Dog Trainer’ Course offers a wealth of information and practical

demonstrations for those wishing to expand their dog training and behaviour knowledge:

  • The science of how dogs learn

  • Exploring body language

  • Group class planning & dynamics

  • Principles of canine behaviour

  • Building a one to one consultation

  • Behaviour modification & rehabilitation

  • Practical demonstrations

  • Case studies

This is a very popular Course for attendees of all standards and is 50% of the curriculum required for the Open College Network Level III  Accredited Qualification ‘Principles of Dog Training And Behaviour’.

  • Due to the intensity of the course content, attendees do not bring dogs to this course.

  • Cost R1200

  • Tea, coffee and biscuits will be provided.

  • You can bring your own lunch.

RESERVATION AND BOOKING LINK:

Facebook event link:

Source: The Institute of Modern Dog Trainers South Africa

Should you muzzle a Dog?

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Should you muzzle a Dog?

Image: Pixabay

The Muzzle Dog stigma needs to change and that happens through better UNDERSTANDING.

Back in February 2021, a post by Jeremy Mansfield did the round about his dog in a soft muzzle without explaining much.  You couldn’t believe the outrage about the post and not one person asked the question of why his dog was muzzled. Those who did their homework before commenting would know that he has raised millions of rands and has been acknowledged as a champion locally and internationally for his work for animal rights.

He later responded that apart from being hurt about the fact that people would think he would hurt animals, he maybe should have explained better.  In his case, she was a rescue who came to them with a fractured jaw. She was certainly not muzzled because she carries toys out of the house, he would not do that! She had to wear a soft muzzle that allows her to eat and drink and pick stuff up but keeps her jaw in place so it heals properly. I assume she is not muzzle anymore, but sadly Jeremy passed away in late 2022.

As Helen St.Pierre, owner of No Monkey Business Dog Training says: “Muzzled dogs are not bad dogs. Muzzled dogs have good humans. Muzzled dogs can have more experiences because they are managed. Muzzled dogs can still have treats. Muzzled dogs are not miserable.” 

MuzzleMuzzled dogs – Image by Canineology

LET’S LOOK AT REASONS DOGS MIGHT HAVE TO WEAR A MUZZLE
Big dogs, small dogs, and all breeds and sizes may need muzzles sometimes. It is not only a breed-specific tool. Here are just a few of the many reasons all dogs should learn to be comfortable in a muzzle shared by Sarah Knight dog training and others.

  • Accidents happen – When you treat an animal in an emergency, one of the first things you are taught is to muzzling them. The reason: Any animal in pain or distressed can bite, even if they are a sweetheart otherwise. Need to remove 100 cactuses from your dog? Need to carry your dog with a broken leg down a mountain when on a hike?
  • Helps prevents blockages – Some dogs like to pick up and eat bones, sticks, dead animals etc., on a walk. No pet parent loves dealing with emergency vet blockage surgery or cleaning up vomit all night. Dogs that love to gulp down treasures on trails are great candidates for muzzle training. 
  • Vet care – Even if your dog is well-behaved/trained, there might come a time when a muzzling them at the vet might be necessary. It lowers the nervous energy of some vet techs, vet and for your dog. Your vet will likely be very grateful too.
  • Grooming– Whether their nails need to be clipped or a shave, pets need grooming. As dogs age and their bodies get older and more painful maintenance grooming can start to hurt. Pain may cause your dog to growl, snap or bite. Your groomer may feel more comfortable with handling part of the groom with your dog muzzled.
  • New dog introductions & interactions – Sometimes some dogs need a little extra help with dog-on-dog interactions. Muzzling helps keep them and others safe and might also help the owners be more confident, which in return benefits the dog’s experience.
  • Evacuations – It doesn’t matter where you live, emergencies and evacuations may happen. If you aren’t home and a rescue team is sent in for your pets they may be crated and or muzzled. Also read about having an emergency plan for your pets.
  • Aggression or rough play – Some dogs may just play too rough or may be more aggressive. You still need to work with an ethical behaviourist to address it, but muzzling can be useful.
  • Breed-specific legislation – There might be areas which require certain so-called “dangerous breeds” to wear them when not on private property. 
  • Injury recovery – As in the case of Jeremy’s dog, sometimes a muzzle can be helpful when recovering from an injury.
  • Training – Sometimes muzzling can be a temporary solution while you are busy with behaviour modification training.

I do not support the muzzling of dogs who compete in sports because I do not support the practice of exploiting animals for entertainment. When they are muzzled for this reason, I do not consider it an ethical reason for muzzling, although it will keep those competing safe.

For me, muzzling should not be a permanent solution and if there is a behavioural issue, please address them by working with an ethical behaviourist (maybe a trainer). Ask your vet or local behaviourist which is the best muzzle for your pet as there are different ones. Pack one when you travel or hike, go to the vet or groomer and include it in your emergency or first-aid bag.

Lose the stigma about muzzling and keep in mind that if someone uses one on their dog, it is a responsible, proactive owner who most likely values the confidence and safety of their dog and others around them. Provide space but don’t assume the dog is a “bad dog” or having a “hard time”. If you see a dog in a muzzle, don’t stare! If you are concerned, engage positively with the owner instead of judging! If you are still concerned, contact your local SPCA to investigate.  

Is your dog comfortable in a muzzle? I believe all dogs should be comfortable in a muzzle. Include muzzle and crate training in your puppy training schedule, but also start with your older pets if you haven’t yet. It can make a big difference in an emergency.

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin

Training Tips: Dog Impulse Control

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Training Tips: Dog Impulse Control

The same uninhibited excitement that makes your dog so endearing can also be a recipe for trouble. Dogs are simply used to acting on their instincts, hence their barking at the mail carrier (or anyone who comes to the door), bothering you for scraps or jumping on you when you get home.

It’s important to give your dog impulse control training to help them be a calmer, more well-behaved companion.

Dog Impulse Control Training
Training your dog can help them overcome their impulsive habits. Use these tips to curb common unwanted behaviours.

Default Position
Teaching your dog to take a default position and wait for instructions or a cue gives them an acceptable behaviour to turn to when they’re not sure what to do, says Karen Pryor Clicker Training. You can use the default position in a wide range of contexts and to help break a number of bad habits, such as jumping on people, being a nuisance at the dinner table or bolting off after another animal. Here’s how to train your dog to take a default position:

  1. If needed, teach your dog to sit until they can do so on command.
  2. Command them to sit. Once they sit, toss a treat so they have to get up to retrieve it.
  3. After they eat the treat, say their name and wait until their attention turns to you. Once it does, repeat their name and reward them with a treat. Repeat this action any time your pup’s attention starts to wander.
  4. Repeat steps two and three five times in the same location. Then, move elsewhere in your home and practice for five more sits.
  5. Practice five sits each day in two different locations, for a total of 10 sits per day. Keep moving to a variety of locations and practicing within different contexts while providing a variety of distractions. Eventually, your pooch should get the hang of sitting still and focusing their attention on you, no matter the situation.

Door Rushing and Doorbell Barking
If your dog has a frenzied response every time there’s someone at the door, try this training adapted from Wag!:

  1. Choose a verbal cue, such as “hush” or “wait.”
  2. Approach your front door. If your dog follows excitedly, use the verbal cue, move away from the door and drop a treat.
  3. Approach the door again and touch the handle. Give your dog the cue as you step away from the door, then ask them to sit. Only give them a treat when they successfully sit down.
  4. Keep practicing, gradually increasing the distance between your dog and the door before asking them to sit.
  5. Once they sit consistently, approach the door and use the verbal cue. Wait for your dog to go to their spot and sit on their own without needing to be told. Once they do, praise them and give them a treat.
  6. Keep practicing by approaching the door from different parts of the house. If your dog barks or rushes the door, repeat steps two through five until your pup moves to their spot and sits without being told.
  7. Repeat step six, this time opening the door when you reach it. Only reward your dog if they quietly sit while you approach and open the door.
  8. Finally, enlist a friend to ring the doorbell or knock on the door. Repeat the previous steps as many times as necessary until your dog reliably responds by going to their spot and sitting quietly while you answer the door.

Food Grabbing
Follow these training tips from the American Kennel Club to teach your dog not to snatch food out of your hand:

  1. In a closed fist, hold a handful of dry dog food in front of your dog. Ignore any attempts to get the food out of your hand.
  2. When your pooch stops trying to get the food from your hand, use your other hand to reward them with a treat. Repeat these steps until your dog stops trying to get food from your closed fist.
  3. Once your dog starts ignoring your closed fist, slowly open your hand. When they try to snatch the treats, close your fist and wait for them to stop. Once they stop trying to take food from your open palm, use your other hand to reward them with a treat.
  4. Once your pup learns to leave the treats alone in your open hand, slowly remove a treat from that hand and give it to your dog. If they try to snatch it or if they go for the other treats, close your fist and don’t give them the treat. Once your pup is able to sit still and wait for you to deliver the treat, you can give it to them as a reward.

Teaching your dog impulse control takes a lot of patience and constant practice, but it’s worth it for the reward of a well-mannered, self-controlled pooch.

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition