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Mastering the art of dog walks

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Mastering the art of dog walks

Optimize dog walks for you and your dog with these essential tips.

Walks are essential for the well-being of canine companions and when done correctly, with the right attitude, they can also be very beneficial for us. It is a commitment responsible pet parents make.

Walks are an opportunity for dogs to:

  1. Relieve themselves.
  2. Move their bodies and get exercise.
  3. Get fresh air.
  4. Help with weight control.
  5. Reduce anxiety, boredom, and depression.
  6. Interacting with their environment and “earthing”.
  7. Socialize with other humans and dogs.
  8. Strengthen their bond with you.

The truth is that most dogs don’t get nearly the amount of exercise they need, resulting in many canine companions becoming obese. Pet guardianship means committing to keep your pet healthy and moving, rain or shine (or snow).  Keep in mind, that for most dogs, a walk is great, however, they need at least three days of 20-minute plus heart-pumping exercise per week, which will likely be achieved more by fast activities or running, rather than walking. 

Set the stage for a lifetime of good walks for you and your canine companion!

  1. Get the right gear for your dog’s needs and get them used to it.
  2. Train your dog to follow loose lead and reduce your dog’s urge to pull.
  3. Explore the different types of walks and make it fun.
  4. Be mindful of the common mistakes we can make when going for walks.
  5. Take safety precautions.

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1. THE RIGHT GEAR

Investing in quality gear, not only enhances safety but also makes walks more enjoyable for both you and your furry companion. Start young/early and slowly. They should be accustomed to wearing the gear before you attempt to take them for walks.

HARNESS, COLLAR, AND LEAD

For your dog, a well-fitting harness or collar is crucial, as it provides comfort and control while minimizing the risk of injury. A sturdy leash, preferably one with a comfortable handle and appropriate length, allows you to maintain control and guide your dog effectively. Even if off-leash, always pack their harness and leash and include an ID tag.

Every dog should have their own secure-fitting flat collar (no choke or pinch collars, please) and an ID tag.

I always advocate for a Y-harness as collars may cause injury to the neck and soft tissue. However, a harness won’t work if your dog does not have loose lead walking skills or training. In a dog’s forward movement, a harness with a ribbon crossing their chest from side to side hinders them, in the same way humans would be bothered hiking with a rubber band holding their arms. Physiological movement of the front limb is inhibited.  Check out this video on the harness and read more on The Paw Company’s page, by searching harness.

I prefer a strong lead of about 1.5 m and advise against retractable leashes as they are more prone to create injury and be a safety hazard, they break, and you have less control.

Make sure your ID tags are legible and have updated contact numbers on.

Other gear may include:

  • Muzzles are not only for aggressive dogs as they can also be used for those dogs who like to eat anything on the road. Muzzle training is important for emergencies too.
  • Reflective gear for both of you if you walk during darker hours.
  • Wear comfortable, supportive shoes yourself and weather-appropriate clothing to stay dry and protected.
  • Consider carrying essentials such as water, waste bags, and a first-aid kit for unexpected situations.
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2. TRAINING TO WALK

Here are some walk-training tips from Dr. Karen Becker.

Training Your Dog to Follow on a Loose Lead

Initial walks should be short for most puppies — the main goal is to get your dog used to being attached to you by a lead. Find a safe environment and allow the puppy to drag the line behind him for a bit, then pick up the opposite end. Let him lead you around for a few seconds while you hold the line just off the ground. Slow down so he’s forced to slow down, ultimately to a stop. Take a short break for praise and a little playtime.

Next, let him trail the line again, but when you pick up your end this time, call him and stand still. If he pulls, hold your ground without pulling him in your direction. The goal is to teach him to put slack in the line himself by moving toward you. When he puts slack in the line, praise him and call him to you.

If he comes all the way to you, give him more praise and a training treat. If he stops on his way to you, tighten the line just enough to apply a tiny bit of pull to it. Immediately call him to come again. Give praise as he moves toward you and treats when he comes all the way back. Two or three repetitions is all many puppies need to understand lack of tension in the line is what earns praise and treats.

When your pup has learned to come towards you to relieve tension on the line, you can begin backing up as he comes toward you to keep him moving. Next, turn and walk forward so he’s following you. If he passes you, head in another direction so he’s again behind you.

The goal is to teach him to follow on a loose lead. Once you’ve accomplished the goal, you can continue to use the light line or replace it with a leash.

Depending on your pup’s temperament, 5 to 15-minute sessions are sufficient in the beginning. Practice controlling him on the lead for 30-second intervals during each session. Exercise patience and don’t engage in a battle of wills with your pup. Don’t snap, yank, or otherwise use the line for correction or punishment. Stop before either of you gets frustrated or tired.

After each short session on the lead, liberally praise your puppy and spend a few minutes playing fetch or some other game he loves. Remember: you’re building the foundation for an activity both you and he will enjoy and look forward to throughout his life.

Reducing Your Dog’s Urge to Pull

Dogs pull for various reasons including but not limited to:

  • It is unnatural to be attached to a leash. They are not meant to walk like robots next to us.
  • They move faster than us and by pulling their human moves forward.
  • Excitement.

It is unrealistic to expect them to never pull!

If your little guy or girl just doesn’t seem to be catching on to the loose lead thing, don’t despair. Some puppies and untrained adult dogs stubbornly fight the “pressure of the line” rather than create slack.

If your puppy freezes on a taut line or consistently pulls against it, it’s important to use a halter or harness rather than a collar attached to the lead, because she can create serious neck and cervical disk problems for herself by pulling against a collar/leash combination.

Next, make sure you’re not part of the problem. Our human instinct is to hold the leash taut, so you must also train yourself to move in ways that keep slack in the line. A dog’s natural response to a tight line is to pull against it. Once you’re sure you’re not contributing to your pup’s refusal to create slack in the lead or move toward you, do the following:

  • Maintain tension on the line and turn your back to her. Allow time for it to occur to her she can’t win by pulling against you.
  • Remain still with your back to her holding the tension in the line — don’t jerk it, don’t pull, or yank her toward you, and don’t put slack in the line yourself, as this will show her that the way to get slack is to pull at the line, which is exactly the opposite of what you’re trying to teach her.

The message you want to send to your pup is that pulling on the lead doesn’t accomplish a thing. It doesn’t change the scenery, it doesn’t get you moving in a direction she chooses, and it doesn’t earn praise or treats. Eventually, she’ll stop doing what doesn’t work, especially when she’s consistently rewarded for desirable behaviour.

From the very first moment you begin leash training, make sure your puppy accomplishes nothing by pulling on her line. It takes some dogs longer than others to learn to keep the leash loose, but with patience and persistence, any puppy can learn to follow a loose lead.

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DIFFERENT KINDS OF WALKS 

I have learned a lot about the different kinds of walks from Dr. Karen Becker. Here is what shes shares:

Once your furry companion has acquired good leash manners and both of you look forward to your walks each day, consider changing up the routine to keep things fresh and fun.

  1. Purposeful walks — These are typically short and have a specific goal, for example, walking your dog to her potty spot.
  2. Training walks — These walks can be about improving leash manners and learning basic or advanced obedience commands. Remember to take some healthy training treats.
  3. Mentally stimulating walks — Most leashed dogs don’t get to spend nearly as much time sniffing and investigating as they would like, so allowing your pet some time to explore is good mental stimulation for her.
  4. Sniffaris — During these mentally stimulating walks, your dog takes the lead, you follow, and he gets to sniff whatever he pleases.
  5. Power walks — Power walks keep your dog’s frame strong, and his weight in check, and help alleviate arthritis and other degenerative joint diseases. These walks can also be an essential method for ensuring your dog gets enough exercise. Your dog may be pumped up after such a walk, so prepping some post-walk-enrichment (like a food toy, licking, etc.) can help them wind down.
  6. Walks with friends — If your dog is comfortable around other dogs, consider meeting up with neighbours or friends with dogs for social group walks.
  7. Different dog-walker walks — Everyone walks a dog a little differently, so the more members of your household who walk your dog, the more variety she’ll enjoy.
  8. Change-of-scenery walks — Instead of heading outside in the same old direction, instead, buckle your dog in and drive a few blocks away or to a neighbourhood park or nearby hiking trail for your walk.
  9. Decompression walks – The idea is to reduce the dog’s stress and anxiety by providing a calm and controlled environment where they can use their natural behaviours. These walks often involve a slower pace and a focus on allowing the dog to make choices about where to go and what to explore, rather than following a strict route or pace.

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ALTERNATIVES FOR REACTIVE DOGS

When you do suburban walking, the other dogs barking, are not them “saying hello”, it is more like “death threats”. For reactive and anxious dogs this won’t be beneficial. For some guardians, walks then become stressful too. In such cases, it may do more harm than good, to commit to that walk.

Ways to improve the walk for a reactive dog (R+Dogs):

  • Avoid the triggers (still work on them later)
  • Let them sniff more
  • Build their confidence
  • Skip the walk
  • Get professional help

Here are some alternatives for physical and mental stimulation:

  • Active games
  • Dog puzzles and toys
  • Dog play dates
  • Online training (for you)
  • Scent work where you hide things for them to find in your home or yard
  • Obstacle course in your yard

AbsoluteDOGS has a game for everything!

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4. COMMON DOG WALKING MISTAKES

  • Ignoring your dog or multi-tasking — Unfortunately, there are pet parents who do everything but, pay attention to their dogs during walks. The activity becomes so routine that they do it without giving much thought to the furry fellow at the other end of the leash. This is a bad habit primarily because of the danger of what your dog can get up to if you are not looking.
  • Not allowing sniff time — Your dog’s most acute sense is their sense of smell. Remember that dogs perceive their world in a big way through scent. It is important to allow them to sniff during walks.
  • Choosing the wrong type of collar, harness, or leash — Many pet parents don’t realize the importance of choosing the right type for their dog.
  • Not taking advantage of the different types of walks, mentioned above, to keep things interesting for both of you.

5. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Here are some safety precautions to take:

  • Pack a mini first aid kit.
  • Take water for you and your canine companion.
  • Keep them hydrated and prevent them from drinking contaminated water.
  • Wear visible gear so the public can see you and reflective gear if you are walking during darker hours.
  • Watch out for dog snatchers who follow your walking routines as well as any other hazards.
  • Do not let young children or the elderly walk animals alone.
  • Go at their pace.
  • Protect their paws.
  • Puppy precautions.
  • Microchip and ID tags.

Let’s elaborate on a few:

Protect their paws – To protect your dog’s paws while walking, ensure you avoid hot pavement or rough terrain that can cause burns or abrasions. Before the walk, test the road/tar/ground temperature. If you can’t keep the back of your hand on the ground for 5 seconds then it is too hot for their paws!Opt for early morning or late evening walks when the ground is cooler, and consider using dog booties to shield their paws from very harsh surfaces if neccesary.

Regularly check their paws for signs of injury or irritation, and keep their nails trimmed to prevent discomfort. Additionally, applying a paw balm can help moisturize and protect their pads from drying out or cracking. I also do a paw-soak after walks with filter water and apple cider vinegar. Taking these precautions can keep your dog’s paws healthy and comfortable during walks.

Puppies – Discuss with your veterinarian when your puppy’s immune system is strong enough to go for walks. This is usually after they had all their initial vaccinations. Also, discuss with your vet when running and jumping will be appropriate for your puppy, when we look at bone growth.

Microchip and ID tags – Make sure your dog is microchipped and registered on multiple databases as well as wearing an ID tag.

KEEP IN MIND

  • If you are having trouble with the walk, get professional help. This could be a trainer if your pet just never learned to walk on a leash properly or a behaviourist if there are other underlying issues like anxiety or reactivity.
  • Leash manners are important, even with the right gear.
  • Sterilized dogs will likely be less distracted or distracting for other dogs.
  • Although walking is a great activity, some breeds might not be getting enough exercise for cardiovascular health through just a walk. For others, you might have to start slower for shorter distances. Remember to take precautions when running. Start slow, go at their pace, and be cautious with growing dogs, old dogs, and those from certain breeds or with certain conditions.
  • When going for hikes, make sure your pet is up for it, you have enough water, the trail is dog-friendly and never let your dog chase any wildlife.

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Yellow ribbon – Be mindful of fellow walkers. Never allow your dog to just approach another dog, even if they are friendly, and especially not when that dog is on a leash because they might be fearful, reactive, aggressive, in pain, not child-friendly, in training or recovering from an operation. The yellow ribbon on a dog’s collar or leash is a sign to other people, that the dog needs some space and that you need to proceed with caution. Never take away another dog or their owner’s choice to interact or not. Always ask permission from the owner and most importantly from the dog.  Help us spread the world on this!

The most important thing you can do to ensure a lifetime of enjoyable walks with your canine companion is to help them learn to be the perfect walking partner and be one too. As Dr. Karen Becker says: “One of the most important gifts you can give your dog whenever you interact with him, including on walks, is your undivided attention.”

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin – Animal 101

The Problem with HOA Rules

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The Problem with HOA Rules

Restricting dog heights through homeowner associations (HOAs) is a misguided approach that fails to consider the well-being of both dogs and their owners. While studies may suggest that larger guarding breed dogs are more suited for smaller spaces due to their quieter behaviour, these restrictions overlook the complex needs and individual differences of both dogs and their owners. This approach is flawed for several reasons:

Here are 7 Reasons dog height restrictions don’t work

One-Size-Fits-All Approach:

Imposing restrictions based solely on dog size disregards the fact that individual dogs have unique personalities, energy levels, and behavioural traits. Taking into account recent studies that show certain dogs are more prone to excessive barking and separation anxiety and they aren’t many large breed dogs in that category.  By treating all dogs of a certain size as if they share the same traits, HOAs overlook the diversity within breeds and individual variation.

Dog-Owner Compatibility:

Dog breeds are chosen by owners based on various factors, including the owner’s lifestyle, preferences, and needs. Restricting certain breeds based on size inhibits potential dog owners from finding a dog that suits their lifestyle and living situation. For instance, a responsible owner of a smaller breed may be fully equipped to handle separation anxiety and barking issues through proper training and care.

Limiting Housing Options:

HOAs that enforce strict height restrictions can limit housing options for residents, potentially driving away potential homeowners or renters who own dogs that exceed the prescribed height. This can have negative consequences on community diversity and discourage responsible dog ownership.

Discrimination Against Breeds:

Enforcing size-based restrictions can inadvertently discriminate against certain breeds or breed types, even if they are well-behaved and well-trained. This contributes to the perpetuation of breed stereotypes, ignoring the fact that behaviour is influenced by factors beyond just size.

Ignoring Training and Socialisation:

The behaviour of a dog is heavily influenced by proper training, socialisation, and the environment it is raised in. Focusing solely on size restrictions disregards the importance of these factors in shaping a dog’s behaviour.

Inequity in Enforcement:

Enforcing dog height restrictions can lead to inconsistencies in enforcement and disputes among residents. Differentiating between breeds based on height alone can be challenging, leading to potential conflicts between residents and the HOA.

Diminished Animal Welfare:

Restricting dogs to specific sizes without considering their needs can compromise their overall well-being. Dogs, regardless of size, require mental stimulation, exercise, and social interaction to lead healthy and happy lives.

Source: DogTown

Aspects to consider if you have an existing dog and are considering adoption

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Aspects to consider if you have an existing dog and are considering adoption

When you are adopting and have an existing dog, it really is helpful to ask yourself the questions below – this will give you a greater chance of a successful adoption. 

We need to bear in mind, that if the adoption does not work out, not only will you feel terrible about this, each and every time a dog is sent back to the shelter, there is more physiological damage and stress, and the chances of the dog being successful adopted in the future are reduced. 

Additionally, our responsibility is always to our existing dog, and he/she must be considered first and foremost. 

The following is not mentioning the costs and training involved, however, these are aspects you need to take into consideration as well. 

  • If your existing dog is NOT sociable with other dogs, then rather do not even attempt an adoption, especially if there is any aggression involved. You can always contact a qualified behaviourist to help your dog, however, a dog such as this can learn to cope with other dogs when out for walks, but the chances of it accepting another dog in the home are very low. 
  • Some dogs will be happy with other dogs when out for a walk, however will not accept another dog into their home – this is more relevant in some breeds rather than others.
  • If you have an existing dog which is of the fighting breeds, or a cross of same, these dogs do much better as only dogs – if you are not sure, then rather get the help of a qualified behaviourist to discuss the possible match. Here is a link to our Compatibility Chart which will give you more knowledge to make an educated decision.
  • If you are getting a dog because you feel your dog is lonely, do ensure that it is getting sufficient physical, mental and sociable stimulation first of all. If not, do not expect the dogs to entertain themselves – you could possible end up with ‘double trouble’.
  • If you are getting another dog due to one dog dying and the existing dog being lonely, rather work on helping it to cope and get over the grief, before considering another dog. Here is a link to an article to help a dog that is not coping after losing its friend.
  • If there are any behaviour problems occurring, even if not serious one’s, it is far better to resolve same before thinking about adopting, as dogs often mimic one another’s behaviour, and you could end up with two dogs exhibiting the unacceptable behaviour. A common problem that often occurs when a second dog is adopted is resource guarding – of food, toys and objects and food – contact a behaviourist to resolve first and foremost. This new knowledge will allow you to ensure that you can train the new dog to avoid problems where resource guarding is concerned as well.
  • Ensure that the dog to be adopted is both dog and people friendly to avoid problems.
  • Consider the sex of the dogs. Your ideal match is one female and one male. Two males can get on well together, however the breeds of each have to be taken into account. Your very worst match, and one to be avoided at all costs, is having 2 females. The chances of problems arising is very real, especially around the 8 – 24 month period.
  • Consider the exercise requirements of both dogs. You don’t want two high energy dogs together, neither do you want a couch potato and a very active dog. Consider also if you have both the time, and energy, to take 2 dogs for walks daily and also if you can control them.
  • Think about the grooming aspects – if you are already spending time grooming your existing dog often, then perhaps a breed that requires less daily brushing would be a better fit.
  • If the existing dog does have any behaviour concerns, even one as small as jumping up against people, you would have to do the work to change this behaviour. The majority of behaviour problems found in shelter dogs can be easily changed, however there is no magic wand to wave – you have to do the work involved, and there is always the possibility that your existing dog may mimic same.
  • Think also of the breed from a point of view of how easily they can be trained – some breed are much harder to train than other, and you need to make sure your dog skills are sufficient.
  • If you already have a young puppy, rather wait until it is about 6 to 7 months of age before bringing in another dog. This will allow you the time to really bond and train the behaviour you want – one dog is always easier to train than two at the same time. Additionally, if you do bring in another puppy close in age to your existing pup, they do tend to bond to one another more than to the owner. Additionally, one pup tends to become more confident and the other less so, and this can end up at extremes. 
    If your existing dog has any physical challenges, or is a Golden Oldie, do speak to your vet to get their opinion as to whether getting another dog is an option.

After you have chosen your new dog, do get your existing dog to meet same, and always on neutral territory – this reduces the possibility of any resource guarding in the home. In order to help you have a success when you do take the new dog home, here is a link to an article that gives you the step by step procedure to follow – Introducing and new dog to a resident dog