Posts

Mastering the art of dog walks

/in , , , , , , , /by

dog

Mastering the art of dog walks

Optimize dog walks for you and your dog with these essential tips.

Walks are essential for the well-being of canine companions and when done correctly, with the right attitude, they can also be very beneficial for us. It is a commitment responsible pet parents make.

Walks are an opportunity for dogs to:

  1. Relieve themselves.
  2. Move their bodies and get exercise.
  3. Get fresh air.
  4. Help with weight control.
  5. Reduce anxiety, boredom, and depression.
  6. Interacting with their environment and “earthing”.
  7. Socialize with other humans and dogs.
  8. Strengthen their bond with you.

The truth is that most dogs don’t get nearly the amount of exercise they need, resulting in many canine companions becoming obese. Pet guardianship means committing to keep your pet healthy and moving, rain or shine (or snow).  Keep in mind, that for most dogs, a walk is great, however, they need at least three days of 20-minute plus heart-pumping exercise per week, which will likely be achieved more by fast activities or running, rather than walking. 

Set the stage for a lifetime of good walks for you and your canine companion!

  1. Get the right gear for your dog’s needs and get them used to it.
  2. Train your dog to follow loose lead and reduce your dog’s urge to pull.
  3. Explore the different types of walks and make it fun.
  4. Be mindful of the common mistakes we can make when going for walks.
  5. Take safety precautions.

dog

1. THE RIGHT GEAR

Investing in quality gear, not only enhances safety but also makes walks more enjoyable for both you and your furry companion. Start young/early and slowly. They should be accustomed to wearing the gear before you attempt to take them for walks.

HARNESS, COLLAR, AND LEAD

For your dog, a well-fitting harness or collar is crucial, as it provides comfort and control while minimizing the risk of injury. A sturdy leash, preferably one with a comfortable handle and appropriate length, allows you to maintain control and guide your dog effectively. Even if off-leash, always pack their harness and leash and include an ID tag.

Every dog should have their own secure-fitting flat collar (no choke or pinch collars, please) and an ID tag.

I always advocate for a Y-harness as collars may cause injury to the neck and soft tissue. However, a harness won’t work if your dog does not have loose lead walking skills or training. In a dog’s forward movement, a harness with a ribbon crossing their chest from side to side hinders them, in the same way humans would be bothered hiking with a rubber band holding their arms. Physiological movement of the front limb is inhibited.  Check out this video on the harness and read more on The Paw Company’s page, by searching harness.

I prefer a strong lead of about 1.5 m and advise against retractable leashes as they are more prone to create injury and be a safety hazard, they break, and you have less control.

Make sure your ID tags are legible and have updated contact numbers on.

Other gear may include:

  • Muzzles are not only for aggressive dogs as they can also be used for those dogs who like to eat anything on the road. Muzzle training is important for emergencies too.
  • Reflective gear for both of you if you walk during darker hours.
  • Wear comfortable, supportive shoes yourself and weather-appropriate clothing to stay dry and protected.
  • Consider carrying essentials such as water, waste bags, and a first-aid kit for unexpected situations.
dog dog

2. TRAINING TO WALK

Here are some walk-training tips from Dr. Karen Becker.

Training Your Dog to Follow on a Loose Lead

Initial walks should be short for most puppies — the main goal is to get your dog used to being attached to you by a lead. Find a safe environment and allow the puppy to drag the line behind him for a bit, then pick up the opposite end. Let him lead you around for a few seconds while you hold the line just off the ground. Slow down so he’s forced to slow down, ultimately to a stop. Take a short break for praise and a little playtime.

Next, let him trail the line again, but when you pick up your end this time, call him and stand still. If he pulls, hold your ground without pulling him in your direction. The goal is to teach him to put slack in the line himself by moving toward you. When he puts slack in the line, praise him and call him to you.

If he comes all the way to you, give him more praise and a training treat. If he stops on his way to you, tighten the line just enough to apply a tiny bit of pull to it. Immediately call him to come again. Give praise as he moves toward you and treats when he comes all the way back. Two or three repetitions is all many puppies need to understand lack of tension in the line is what earns praise and treats.

When your pup has learned to come towards you to relieve tension on the line, you can begin backing up as he comes toward you to keep him moving. Next, turn and walk forward so he’s following you. If he passes you, head in another direction so he’s again behind you.

The goal is to teach him to follow on a loose lead. Once you’ve accomplished the goal, you can continue to use the light line or replace it with a leash.

Depending on your pup’s temperament, 5 to 15-minute sessions are sufficient in the beginning. Practice controlling him on the lead for 30-second intervals during each session. Exercise patience and don’t engage in a battle of wills with your pup. Don’t snap, yank, or otherwise use the line for correction or punishment. Stop before either of you gets frustrated or tired.

After each short session on the lead, liberally praise your puppy and spend a few minutes playing fetch or some other game he loves. Remember: you’re building the foundation for an activity both you and he will enjoy and look forward to throughout his life.

Reducing Your Dog’s Urge to Pull

Dogs pull for various reasons including but not limited to:

  • It is unnatural to be attached to a leash. They are not meant to walk like robots next to us.
  • They move faster than us and by pulling their human moves forward.
  • Excitement.

It is unrealistic to expect them to never pull!

If your little guy or girl just doesn’t seem to be catching on to the loose lead thing, don’t despair. Some puppies and untrained adult dogs stubbornly fight the “pressure of the line” rather than create slack.

If your puppy freezes on a taut line or consistently pulls against it, it’s important to use a halter or harness rather than a collar attached to the lead, because she can create serious neck and cervical disk problems for herself by pulling against a collar/leash combination.

Next, make sure you’re not part of the problem. Our human instinct is to hold the leash taut, so you must also train yourself to move in ways that keep slack in the line. A dog’s natural response to a tight line is to pull against it. Once you’re sure you’re not contributing to your pup’s refusal to create slack in the lead or move toward you, do the following:

  • Maintain tension on the line and turn your back to her. Allow time for it to occur to her she can’t win by pulling against you.
  • Remain still with your back to her holding the tension in the line — don’t jerk it, don’t pull, or yank her toward you, and don’t put slack in the line yourself, as this will show her that the way to get slack is to pull at the line, which is exactly the opposite of what you’re trying to teach her.

The message you want to send to your pup is that pulling on the lead doesn’t accomplish a thing. It doesn’t change the scenery, it doesn’t get you moving in a direction she chooses, and it doesn’t earn praise or treats. Eventually, she’ll stop doing what doesn’t work, especially when she’s consistently rewarded for desirable behaviour.

From the very first moment you begin leash training, make sure your puppy accomplishes nothing by pulling on her line. It takes some dogs longer than others to learn to keep the leash loose, but with patience and persistence, any puppy can learn to follow a loose lead.

dog

DIFFERENT KINDS OF WALKS 

I have learned a lot about the different kinds of walks from Dr. Karen Becker. Here is what shes shares:

Once your furry companion has acquired good leash manners and both of you look forward to your walks each day, consider changing up the routine to keep things fresh and fun.

  1. Purposeful walks — These are typically short and have a specific goal, for example, walking your dog to her potty spot.
  2. Training walks — These walks can be about improving leash manners and learning basic or advanced obedience commands. Remember to take some healthy training treats.
  3. Mentally stimulating walks — Most leashed dogs don’t get to spend nearly as much time sniffing and investigating as they would like, so allowing your pet some time to explore is good mental stimulation for her.
  4. Sniffaris — During these mentally stimulating walks, your dog takes the lead, you follow, and he gets to sniff whatever he pleases.
  5. Power walks — Power walks keep your dog’s frame strong, and his weight in check, and help alleviate arthritis and other degenerative joint diseases. These walks can also be an essential method for ensuring your dog gets enough exercise. Your dog may be pumped up after such a walk, so prepping some post-walk-enrichment (like a food toy, licking, etc.) can help them wind down.
  6. Walks with friends — If your dog is comfortable around other dogs, consider meeting up with neighbours or friends with dogs for social group walks.
  7. Different dog-walker walks — Everyone walks a dog a little differently, so the more members of your household who walk your dog, the more variety she’ll enjoy.
  8. Change-of-scenery walks — Instead of heading outside in the same old direction, instead, buckle your dog in and drive a few blocks away or to a neighbourhood park or nearby hiking trail for your walk.
  9. Decompression walks – The idea is to reduce the dog’s stress and anxiety by providing a calm and controlled environment where they can use their natural behaviours. These walks often involve a slower pace and a focus on allowing the dog to make choices about where to go and what to explore, rather than following a strict route or pace.

dog

dog

ALTERNATIVES FOR REACTIVE DOGS

When you do suburban walking, the other dogs barking, are not them “saying hello”, it is more like “death threats”. For reactive and anxious dogs this won’t be beneficial. For some guardians, walks then become stressful too. In such cases, it may do more harm than good, to commit to that walk.

Ways to improve the walk for a reactive dog (R+Dogs):

  • Avoid the triggers (still work on them later)
  • Let them sniff more
  • Build their confidence
  • Skip the walk
  • Get professional help

Here are some alternatives for physical and mental stimulation:

  • Active games
  • Dog puzzles and toys
  • Dog play dates
  • Online training (for you)
  • Scent work where you hide things for them to find in your home or yard
  • Obstacle course in your yard

AbsoluteDOGS has a game for everything!

dog

4. COMMON DOG WALKING MISTAKES

  • Ignoring your dog or multi-tasking — Unfortunately, there are pet parents who do everything but, pay attention to their dogs during walks. The activity becomes so routine that they do it without giving much thought to the furry fellow at the other end of the leash. This is a bad habit primarily because of the danger of what your dog can get up to if you are not looking.
  • Not allowing sniff time — Your dog’s most acute sense is their sense of smell. Remember that dogs perceive their world in a big way through scent. It is important to allow them to sniff during walks.
  • Choosing the wrong type of collar, harness, or leash — Many pet parents don’t realize the importance of choosing the right type for their dog.
  • Not taking advantage of the different types of walks, mentioned above, to keep things interesting for both of you.

5. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Here are some safety precautions to take:

  • Pack a mini first aid kit.
  • Take water for you and your canine companion.
  • Keep them hydrated and prevent them from drinking contaminated water.
  • Wear visible gear so the public can see you and reflective gear if you are walking during darker hours.
  • Watch out for dog snatchers who follow your walking routines as well as any other hazards.
  • Do not let young children or the elderly walk animals alone.
  • Go at their pace.
  • Protect their paws.
  • Puppy precautions.
  • Microchip and ID tags.

Let’s elaborate on a few:

Protect their paws – To protect your dog’s paws while walking, ensure you avoid hot pavement or rough terrain that can cause burns or abrasions. Before the walk, test the road/tar/ground temperature. If you can’t keep the back of your hand on the ground for 5 seconds then it is too hot for their paws!Opt for early morning or late evening walks when the ground is cooler, and consider using dog booties to shield their paws from very harsh surfaces if neccesary.

Regularly check their paws for signs of injury or irritation, and keep their nails trimmed to prevent discomfort. Additionally, applying a paw balm can help moisturize and protect their pads from drying out or cracking. I also do a paw-soak after walks with filter water and apple cider vinegar. Taking these precautions can keep your dog’s paws healthy and comfortable during walks.

Puppies – Discuss with your veterinarian when your puppy’s immune system is strong enough to go for walks. This is usually after they had all their initial vaccinations. Also, discuss with your vet when running and jumping will be appropriate for your puppy, when we look at bone growth.

Microchip and ID tags – Make sure your dog is microchipped and registered on multiple databases as well as wearing an ID tag.

KEEP IN MIND

  • If you are having trouble with the walk, get professional help. This could be a trainer if your pet just never learned to walk on a leash properly or a behaviourist if there are other underlying issues like anxiety or reactivity.
  • Leash manners are important, even with the right gear.
  • Sterilized dogs will likely be less distracted or distracting for other dogs.
  • Although walking is a great activity, some breeds might not be getting enough exercise for cardiovascular health through just a walk. For others, you might have to start slower for shorter distances. Remember to take precautions when running. Start slow, go at their pace, and be cautious with growing dogs, old dogs, and those from certain breeds or with certain conditions.
  • When going for hikes, make sure your pet is up for it, you have enough water, the trail is dog-friendly and never let your dog chase any wildlife.

dog

Yellow ribbon – Be mindful of fellow walkers. Never allow your dog to just approach another dog, even if they are friendly, and especially not when that dog is on a leash because they might be fearful, reactive, aggressive, in pain, not child-friendly, in training or recovering from an operation. The yellow ribbon on a dog’s collar or leash is a sign to other people, that the dog needs some space and that you need to proceed with caution. Never take away another dog or their owner’s choice to interact or not. Always ask permission from the owner and most importantly from the dog.  Help us spread the world on this!

The most important thing you can do to ensure a lifetime of enjoyable walks with your canine companion is to help them learn to be the perfect walking partner and be one too. As Dr. Karen Becker says: “One of the most important gifts you can give your dog whenever you interact with him, including on walks, is your undivided attention.”

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin – Animal 101

The Problem with HOA Rules

/in , , , , , , /by

HOA

The Problem with HOA Rules

Restricting dog heights through homeowner associations (HOAs) is a misguided approach that fails to consider the well-being of both dogs and their owners. While studies may suggest that larger guarding breed dogs are more suited for smaller spaces due to their quieter behaviour, these restrictions overlook the complex needs and individual differences of both dogs and their owners. This approach is flawed for several reasons:

Here are 7 Reasons dog height restrictions don’t work

One-Size-Fits-All Approach:

Imposing restrictions based solely on dog size disregards the fact that individual dogs have unique personalities, energy levels, and behavioural traits. Taking into account recent studies that show certain dogs are more prone to excessive barking and separation anxiety and they aren’t many large breed dogs in that category.  By treating all dogs of a certain size as if they share the same traits, HOAs overlook the diversity within breeds and individual variation.

Dog-Owner Compatibility:

Dog breeds are chosen by owners based on various factors, including the owner’s lifestyle, preferences, and needs. Restricting certain breeds based on size inhibits potential dog owners from finding a dog that suits their lifestyle and living situation. For instance, a responsible owner of a smaller breed may be fully equipped to handle separation anxiety and barking issues through proper training and care.

Limiting Housing Options:

HOAs that enforce strict height restrictions can limit housing options for residents, potentially driving away potential homeowners or renters who own dogs that exceed the prescribed height. This can have negative consequences on community diversity and discourage responsible dog ownership.

Discrimination Against Breeds:

Enforcing size-based restrictions can inadvertently discriminate against certain breeds or breed types, even if they are well-behaved and well-trained. This contributes to the perpetuation of breed stereotypes, ignoring the fact that behaviour is influenced by factors beyond just size.

Ignoring Training and Socialisation:

The behaviour of a dog is heavily influenced by proper training, socialisation, and the environment it is raised in. Focusing solely on size restrictions disregards the importance of these factors in shaping a dog’s behaviour.

Inequity in Enforcement:

Enforcing dog height restrictions can lead to inconsistencies in enforcement and disputes among residents. Differentiating between breeds based on height alone can be challenging, leading to potential conflicts between residents and the HOA.

Diminished Animal Welfare:

Restricting dogs to specific sizes without considering their needs can compromise their overall well-being. Dogs, regardless of size, require mental stimulation, exercise, and social interaction to lead healthy and happy lives.

Source: DogTown

Aspects to consider if you have an existing dog and are considering adoption

/in , , , , , , , /by

dog

Aspects to consider if you have an existing dog and are considering adoption

When you are adopting and have an existing dog, it really is helpful to ask yourself the questions below – this will give you a greater chance of a successful adoption. 

We need to bear in mind, that if the adoption does not work out, not only will you feel terrible about this, each and every time a dog is sent back to the shelter, there is more physiological damage and stress, and the chances of the dog being successful adopted in the future are reduced. 

Additionally, our responsibility is always to our existing dog, and he/she must be considered first and foremost. 

The following is not mentioning the costs and training involved, however, these are aspects you need to take into consideration as well. 

  • If your existing dog is NOT sociable with other dogs, then rather do not even attempt an adoption, especially if there is any aggression involved. You can always contact a qualified behaviourist to help your dog, however, a dog such as this can learn to cope with other dogs when out for walks, but the chances of it accepting another dog in the home are very low. 
  • Some dogs will be happy with other dogs when out for a walk, however will not accept another dog into their home – this is more relevant in some breeds rather than others.
  • If you have an existing dog which is of the fighting breeds, or a cross of same, these dogs do much better as only dogs – if you are not sure, then rather get the help of a qualified behaviourist to discuss the possible match. Here is a link to our Compatibility Chart which will give you more knowledge to make an educated decision.
  • If you are getting a dog because you feel your dog is lonely, do ensure that it is getting sufficient physical, mental and sociable stimulation first of all. If not, do not expect the dogs to entertain themselves – you could possible end up with ‘double trouble’.
  • If you are getting another dog due to one dog dying and the existing dog being lonely, rather work on helping it to cope and get over the grief, before considering another dog. Here is a link to an article to help a dog that is not coping after losing its friend.
  • If there are any behaviour problems occurring, even if not serious one’s, it is far better to resolve same before thinking about adopting, as dogs often mimic one another’s behaviour, and you could end up with two dogs exhibiting the unacceptable behaviour. A common problem that often occurs when a second dog is adopted is resource guarding – of food, toys and objects and food – contact a behaviourist to resolve first and foremost. This new knowledge will allow you to ensure that you can train the new dog to avoid problems where resource guarding is concerned as well.
  • Ensure that the dog to be adopted is both dog and people friendly to avoid problems.
  • Consider the sex of the dogs. Your ideal match is one female and one male. Two males can get on well together, however the breeds of each have to be taken into account. Your very worst match, and one to be avoided at all costs, is having 2 females. The chances of problems arising is very real, especially around the 8 – 24 month period.
  • Consider the exercise requirements of both dogs. You don’t want two high energy dogs together, neither do you want a couch potato and a very active dog. Consider also if you have both the time, and energy, to take 2 dogs for walks daily and also if you can control them.
  • Think about the grooming aspects – if you are already spending time grooming your existing dog often, then perhaps a breed that requires less daily brushing would be a better fit.
  • If the existing dog does have any behaviour concerns, even one as small as jumping up against people, you would have to do the work to change this behaviour. The majority of behaviour problems found in shelter dogs can be easily changed, however there is no magic wand to wave – you have to do the work involved, and there is always the possibility that your existing dog may mimic same.
  • Think also of the breed from a point of view of how easily they can be trained – some breed are much harder to train than other, and you need to make sure your dog skills are sufficient.
  • If you already have a young puppy, rather wait until it is about 6 to 7 months of age before bringing in another dog. This will allow you the time to really bond and train the behaviour you want – one dog is always easier to train than two at the same time. Additionally, if you do bring in another puppy close in age to your existing pup, they do tend to bond to one another more than to the owner. Additionally, one pup tends to become more confident and the other less so, and this can end up at extremes. 
    If your existing dog has any physical challenges, or is a Golden Oldie, do speak to your vet to get their opinion as to whether getting another dog is an option.

After you have chosen your new dog, do get your existing dog to meet same, and always on neutral territory – this reduces the possibility of any resource guarding in the home. In order to help you have a success when you do take the new dog home, here is a link to an article that gives you the step by step procedure to follow – Introducing and new dog to a resident dog

 

Protect Your Dog’s Paws from Hot Surfaces in Summer

/in , , , , , , , , , /by

Paws

Protect Your Dog’s Paws from Hot Surfaces in Summer

Many owners like taking their dogs on walks, but many of them forget about one important detail: hot surfaces can burn a dog’s paws.

It can be tempting to take your dog everywhere you go, but it can cause serious harm to your dog if you are not careful. Remember that if it feels way too hot for you to leave your hands comfortably on the ground for at least 10 seconds, it can result in severe burns on your dog’s paw pads, especially if you have a new puppy with tender young paws.

Your dog’s paws have footpads that can usually handle whatever a stroll or walk in nature throws at them. But a lot of human-made surfaces can burn your pooch’s paws, including concrete, metal, pavement, sidewalks and asphalt.

Symptoms of burned paws may include:

  • Limping or avoiding walking
  • Licking or chewing feet
  • Paw pads are darker in colour than usual
  • Pads are visibly damaged
  • Blisters or redness

If you suspect your dog has burned paw pads you should:

  • Flush the foot with cold water or use a cold compress
  • Try not to let your dog lick the injured pad
  • Take your dog to the vet as soon as you possible because burns can become infected.

Depending on the severity of the burn, your dog might need antibiotics or pain medication.

Tips to keep your dog or puppy from getting burned this summer:
These tips will help your dog stay safe and uninjured this summer from the dangers of hot surfaces.

Walk your dog in cool temperatures
The best time to walk your dog is in the morning or late evening, when the pavement is cool. Avoid walking your dog in the afternoon when the sun is high in the sky or early evening, because the pavement will be hot.

Walk your dog on the grass
If you end up taking your dog out during the warmer times of the day, be sure to stay on the grass and stick to shady areas. To avoid burning, stay away from sidewalks or any paved areas.

Moisturise your dog’s paws
Minor injuries such as cuts, cracking, or peeling of the paws can make your dog’s paws more susceptible to burns and other serious problems. Moisturising your dog’s feet with a veterinary approved product for your dog on a daily basis, will help prevent these injuries.

Paw wax
Paw wax is designed to protect your dog’s feet from hot surfaces and potentially harmful chemicals like road salts and can easily be smeared onto your dog’s paw pads to protect them from harmful surfaces.

Dog shoes
Not only do these booties look cute, but they are also one of the best ways to protect your dog’s paws from heat and potential injuries. If your dog will wear them, be sure to buy shoes that have rubber soles to offer the best protection. Be aware that not all dogs can get used to dog shoes, and some might have a hard time walking in them. There will definitely be an adjustment period for your dog with dog shoes. If you can get your dog used to using them, nothing else offers better protection. Disposable dog booties are also a great short-term fix for the summer heat. Dog booties can provide good protection from the heat, and are a great temporary solution if you need to take your dog out on a hot day and your dog is willing to wear them.

Peel and stick paw pads
Another solution to minimising heat damage to your dog’s paws in summer are peel and stick paw pads. They are easy to put on and they can be cut to the perfect size for paws and can be reused.

Check their paws regularly
Check your dog’s paw pads daily for any signs of damage and wash his paws frequently. If you do happen to see a problem, or if your dog is acting strangely on his feet, take your dog to your nearest vet for medical assistance.

Source: Cape of Good Hope SPCA 

Let’s talk Vomit – Should you be worried?

/in , , , , , , , , , /by

Vomit

Let’s talk Vomit – Should you be worried?

We have all experienced the sudden shock of that dreadful sound when we are sleeping. I don’t think anything gets you out of bed as quickly as your dog threatening to vomit. Though it isn’t always necessary to worry too much when your dog throws up, what it throws up may be something to take note of. Textures and colours can be a sure telltale sign that your dog may need medical attention.

We know that liquid vomit may be cause for concern if your dog is continually throwing up, as this means your dog is still nauseas even though his tummy is empty, while foreign objects may explain where the shoelaces of your newly washed sneakers have disappeared to.

But what can colour tell us? The colour of your dog’s vomit can tell you a lot about their current illness, making it essential to understand these vomit colours when you see them.

Brown: Firstly, this may just be due to the colour of the kibble you feed your dog. Perhaps a more unsettling reason behind vomit being brown, is that the dog may be eating feces. The act of eating stool, coprophagia, is quite common in our furry friends. You can often tell if your dog is eating stool by not only the colour of their vomit, but also the foul smell of their breath. Another possible cause of brown vomit in dogs is due to small traces of blood being present.

Green: Green vomit may be due to snacking on grass during their time outside. Grass can certainly make your dog’s vomit appear to be bright green in some cases, but it will often contain pieces of plant material since grass is not easy to digest. Green dog vomit can also indicate that there is bile present. This can happen when your dog vomits on an empty stomach or when a dog suffers from reflux. Blood can sometimes appear brown in the vomit, making it important to clean the vomit with light coloured paper towels or rags when possible.

Red: Since we often associate the colour red with blood, it makes sense why dog owners call their vet immediately upon seeing their dog’s red vomit. But is it something to worry about? First, it is important to consider the colour of your dog’s food or treats before you assume it’s blood. Many dog kibbles and treats contain red food dye, causing vomit to appear red if they just ingested either item. If your dog has not eaten any red kibbles or treats recently then the red appearance does often point to blood being present. Dogs can have bloody vomit due to stomach irritation, ulcers, HGE, and other serious gastrointestinal conditions that irritate the GI tract. Blood in the vomit is a serious medical emergency that warrants you contacting your veterinarian as soon as possible.

Yellow: Yellow dog vomit is another sign of bile being present in the vomit. If your dog threw up a yellow colour, this could again point to your dog’s stomach being empty or the fact that they suffer from acid reflux. Vomiting on an empty stomach will often indicate that their nausea is not due to something they recently ate.

Vomit

Black: This is another daunting colour that often frightens dog owners. While black or dark coloured vomit can be due to a dog eating soil or dirt, it can point to a serious problem in your pup. Digested blood will often have a dark and granulated appearance, like the appearance of coffee grounds. Any possibility of blood in the GI tract should be taken seriously, as it can point to a medical emergency. If your dog is having black vomit or coffee ground like material in their vomit, it’s best to contact your vet as soon as possible.

White: This is usually due to foam. White foam in a dog’s vomit can be due to coming in contact with air as well as being sloshed around in the belly before it’s expelled. Foam is more likely to be obvious in dogs that vomit on an empty stomach, since there are no chunky materials present. Please contact your vet if your dog keeps vomiting on an empty stomach.

Grey: This is often a sign of prolonged gastrointestinal upset. Liquid vomit in general often means there is not any food in a dog’s stomach, while gray vomit may indicate the presence of white foam or dilute bile. Both of these suggestions mean a dog is avoiding their standard diet for whatever reason and is likely unable to keep their food down when they do eat. Anytime a dog experiences liquid vomit of any colour, it’s best to contact your veterinarian for further advice. Getting to the bottom of your dog’s nausea is essential for a full recovery, as many canine conditions can cause a dog to vomit or turn away from food, such as liver failure. Your veterinarian will likely gather details of your dog’s medical history, as well as perform a few standard diagnostics.

Clear: If your dog is vomiting clear liquid, it can mean that they are nauseous but have nothing in their stomach to throw up. This can be a sign of acid reflux, bacterial infection, GI upset or an illness.

The above mentioned information is strictly just to give you an idea of what could be the cause of your dog’s nausea. However, ongoing or frequent vomiting should be discussed with your vet as soon as possible to ensure you get your dog the veterinary assistance he may require. Chronic vomiting can quickly dehydrate your dog, leading to great discomfort if left untreated, which can become an emergency that needs immediate treatment.

In short, you should always be a bit concerned when your dog is vomiting. While dogs can certainly vomit once due to a minor stomach upset and be fine soon after, the cause of your dog’s vomiting is usually due to something that is making them feel ill.

Be sure to pay close attention to your pup immediately after they vomit and look out for other signs that point to them feeling unwell.

Source: English & French Bulldog Rescue SA – October 2024 Newsletter

No hot dogs, please!

/in , , , , , , , , , /by

dog

No hot dogs, please!

Every summer there are cases of dogs dying after being left locked in a car for ‘just a minute’ while their owners pop into a store or run an errand. This is a tragedy that should never occur.

Durban summers can be brutal but even when the temperature is a comfortable 22º, inside a parked car it can soar to 47º within an hour. Humans can sweat to regulate body temperature, but dogs can only cool themselves by panting. Those with thick fur or short skulls (brachycephalic breeds) are particularly susceptible to heatstroke; they can suffer brain damage or die from heatstroke in just 15 minutes.

Signs of heatstroke in dogs

In the early stages, dogs may be unusually thirsty and pant a lot. Without intervention, they may become too weak or exhausted to move, or may collapse during a walk in the heat. Look out for these warning signs:

  • Excessive panting and drooling, often with very thick saliva
  • Dizziness – your dog may not be able to walk properly, or he may collapse
  • Vomiting and diarrhoea
  • Muscle spasms or seizures
  • Loss of consciousness

Left untreated, your dog could suffer organ damage and die. This can happen quite suddenly and without much warning, so you need to be aware of how your dog is coping in the heat of summer.

What to do if you suspect your dog has heatstroke

You’ll need to bring down your dog’s temperature and make sure he’s properly hydrated. First, remove him from the hot environment. If he’s unable to move, carry him to shady spot in the garden or take him inside, especially if you have air conditioning or cool tiled flooring.

Wet the dog’s coat with water from a bucket or hosepipe. If you have a fan, let it blow over the damp skin. Don’t plunge the dog into a bath of ice-cold water, which may result in shock or cause blood vessels to constrict too rapidly.

If he’s lying outside, you can also wet the ground around him, or have him lie on a wet towel. But don’t cover him with the towel, as this prevents heat from escaping.

Place his water bowl within easy reach and top up as often as necessary.

When to see the vet

If there’s no improvement, or the dog’s condition worsens, get him to a vet as soon as possible. Your dog may need intensive care and treatment with intravenous fluids, oxygen, nausea and diarrhoea meds, pain meds, cardiac meds or antibiotics to help him recover.

Other tips to keep your dog safe in summer

  • Don’t walk your dog on hot cement, sand or tar.
  • Opt for early morning or late afternoon walks.
  • Apply sunblock to your dog’s ears and nose, especially if he has a white coat.
  • Put an ice cube in your dog’s water bowl and be sure to top it up throughout the day.
  • If your dog lives outside, provide a shady area.
  • If your dog is struggling in the heat, hose him down with cool water.
  • Never keep a dog in a garage or shed on a hot day.

What about cats? Can they also get heatstroke?

Although heatstroke is less common in cats, it is possible in very hot weather. If your cat is able to move freely from inside to outside the house, they will unerringly find the coolest spot, and stretch out instead of curling up to keep themselves cool.

However, if they are enclosed in a small, hot room, they may not be able to escape the heat. Older, pregnant or overweight cats, and those with chronic conditions, are more at risk.

Unlike dogs, cats don’t usually pant to cool themselves down. They cool themselves by licking their fur; as the saliva evaporates, it provides a cooling effect. Symptoms of heatstroke in cats are similar to those in dogs. Your cat may even pant, which is not normal behaviour.

Even though most cats dislike water, the best treatment is wetting their fur and offering plenty of water. If your cat doesn’t seem interested in drinking water, feed wet food rather than nibbles, or add water to their dry food.

As a pet owner, the best way of keeping your furbabies safe from the summer heat is to be aware of how heat may affect them, and take steps to ensure they are cool and comfortable.

Source: Durban & Coast SPCA

TIPS: How to test if your dog is dehydrated

/in , , , , , , /by

Dog

TIPS: How to test if your dog is dehydrated

Beat the heat with our summer tips for your pets. We must remember that just like us, our pets, especially dogs, can get dehydrated.  

Early signs of dehydration are a dry mouth, sunken eyes, and a loss of elasticity in their skin. Severe dehydration can lead to organ failure and even death. Know what to do and what to look out for.

Here’s how to test if your dog is dehydrated:

  • Softly pinch a piece of their skin on their back between two fingers for a few seconds and see how quickly it returns to its normal state.  If it does not fall back to normal, your dog is dehydrated.

OR

  • Press your finger on their gums for a few seconds and remove it again.  If it takes a long time for the white to return to the natural pink colour, then your dog is dehydrated.

How can we ensure our furry friends stay hydrated?

  • Provide them with lots of fresh water by leaving many water bowls and or places to access safe and clean water.
  • Water bowls should be in a shaded area so that it doesn’t evaporate too quickly or get hot from the sun.
  • You can cool your pets’ water by putting ice blocks in their bowls.

Is My Dog Mad at Me?

/in , , , , /by

Dog

Is My Dog Mad at Me?

If you come home and your pooch doesn’t greet you as usual or if the place looks like it’s been hit by a tornado, you might think that your dog is mad at you for leaving. Here’s what you need to know about dogs and anger, and how to tell if your dog is upset.

Dogs and Anger
It turns out that the question of whether your dog is mad at you or not is the wrong question to ask. While dogs can indeed get upset by a situation, they don’t get mad at someone in the same way that you do. According to HealthyPsych, anger is what psychologists refer to as a secondary emotion, which is a human response to primary emotions like fear and sadness. Anger is too complex a feeling for dogs to truly experience; however, dogs are capable of experiencing the more basic emotions that humans use anger to hide.

Dogs also don’t assign blame in the way that humans do, says Cuteness. While your dog might make associations between an object or a situation and the feelings they inspire — for example, a puppy might trip down steps and get hurt while carrying a toy and then associate the toy with something harmful — they don’t actually think about it being the object’s fault. It simply doesn’t occur to your pooch to blame you for what’s making them unhappy.

Signs That Your Dog Is Upset
Your dog may try to communicate that they’re upset in ways that make them seem angry with you. But more likely than not, they’re simply trying to convey their feelings and looking to you to stop the source of their distress.

Here are common dog behaviours that are often mistakenly interpreted as anger toward a pet parent.

Chewing Furniture
What it might mean: Rather than an attempt to get revenge, your dog is probably bored and making a desperate attempt at amusement in the absence of company or other entertainment.

What you should do: Make sure to provide your pup with toys when you leave them alone. The best kind of toy is interactive, like a puzzle or treat-dispensing toy. Leaving the radio or TV on can also help your pup feel less lonely. A video or voice recording of yourself is even better.

Growling or Snarling
What it might mean: Growling is usually your dog’s way of letting you know that something is upsetting them, and they want it to stop, according to Reader’s Digest. Dogs growl for various reasons that have nothing to do with anger, such as resource guarding. You’ll be able to tell if this is the cause if they growl over food or a toy that they fear you or another animal might take from them. Similarly, you might hear a growl if you make them move from a comfortable spot.

What you should do: Don’t punish or yell at your dog for growling. Doing so could make the behaviour worse or frighten them into snapping or biting. Instead, stay calm and ignore the behaviour. If you need to take something away from a resource-guarding dog, try to distract them with a treat while you remove the object, suggests iHeartDogs. Watch for other signs of aggression, such as showing the whites of their eyes, flattened ears, repetitive lip licking or bared teeth. If you see any of these signs, leave your dog alone and wait for them to lose interest in the object. Otherwise, you risk getting bitten.

Peeing on Your Things
What it might mean: While you may think your dog peed on the pile of laundry you left on the floor out of spite, the truth is there are a number of reasons dogs might pee on your stuff. According to The Nest, one reason dogs pee on their pet parents’ things is to mark their territory. It could also mean that you didn’t let them out soon enough when they needed to go to the bathroom. If this behaviour mostly happens when your dog is home alone, it could be a sign of separation anxiety. And if your dog is housebroken but often has accidents on soft places, like piles of clothing, it could signal a health problem such as a urinary tract infection or urinary incontinence.

What you should do: If you think a medical issue or separation anxiety might be causing this behaviour, consult your veterinarian. Otherwise, keep in mind that your dog’s bladder doesn’t always operate on your preferred schedule and be sure to pay attention when they let you know that they need to go. If your schedule prevents you from being able to attend to your dog’s needs right away, you might consider a dog walker or doggy door to continue to train them that the best place to relieve themselves is outside. Using dog training pads near the spots where they tend to sneak off for a potty break should be considered a last resort so they don’t associate going indoors as an acceptable behaviour. And avoid leaving dirty laundry or other items you don’t want to get peed on in areas accessible to your dog.

Avoiding You
What it might mean: If your pooch is avoiding you, it probably means that they’re stressed out for some reason, and they need time alone to cope. Hiding can also signal that your dog is in pain.

What you should do: First, don’t take it personally. Remember that your dog isn’t actually angry at you. It’s possible your pup is picking up on your own bad mood and it’s causing them stress. It could also be something innocuous, like the smell of your perfume or hair product. Or, if you’ve been playing with them or teasing them, they might be frustrated or overstimulated and need space to calm down. In any case, it’s best to give them their space and, in the meantime, check yourself to make sure you’re not giving off an upsetting vibe or that you haven’t pushed your dog too far. Give them the chance to chill out and return to you when they feel ready.

If you notice that your dog is in pain for any reason, it is best to get them to the veterinarian as soon as you can.

Instead of wondering if your dog is mad at you the next time they act out, you’ll know how to respond and help them relax. Knowing how to better read your dog’s behaviour will only serve to strengthen your bond.

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

When Your Dog Has a Cold – What to Do

/in , , , , , /by

Dog

When Your Dog Has a Cold – What to Do

Tips for dog owners: how to help your four-legged patient recover

Dogs can show cold and flu-like symptoms during cold and damp seasons. These include a runny nose, sneezing, eye discharge, coughing, fever, shallow, noisy and laboured breathing due to congestion as well as a lack of energy and appetite.1,2

Measures for recovery

As long as your four-legged friend only shows mild symptoms, but still has an appetite and is behaving normally, you can help them with simple measures to speed up their recovery. Dry air can irritate the airways, so set up a humidifier. The vapour can help to alleviate breathing difficulties. Clean the areas around the eyes and nose carefully with a lukewarm, damp cloth and allow your dog plenty of rest. Offer your four-legged friend plenty of fresh water and ensure they drink a lot. A balanced diet helps to strengthen the immune system (more details below). Keep your dog warm and away from other four-legged friends so that they don’t become infected.3,4,5 Definitely don’t smoke in the dog’s presence and avoid the use of things like room sprays. Your four-legged patient should feel better again in one to two weeks.

If the above-mentioned symptoms worsen and severe breathing problems, bloody sputum when coughing, nosebleeds, reluctance to eat or drink and lethargic behaviour occur, you must have your dog examined by a veterinarian.6,7 They can offer appropriate treatment options based on the results of the examination.

How to Prevent Your Dog From Catching a Cold

Preventive measures

  • Dogs are most likely to catch the disease from another sick dog. Make sure that your dog avoids places where coughing and sneezing four-legged friends are present and do not let them drink from shared bowls or use shared toys.
  • Strengthen the immune system with a balanced diet. Vitamins, fats, proteins and minerals are essential in a dog’s diet.5
  • If your dog spends most of its time outside, allow it to retreat to a dry, wind-protected, possibly heated dog kennel. Do you have a dog without enough undercoat? Then grant him a warm and suitable item of clothing.
  • Have your dog examined regularly at a veterinary practice. This will help to recognise potential health problems before they become serious illnesses.
  • Make sure that your four-legged friend’s vaccination status is always up to date. A stable immune system is better equipped to fight off future infections.1,8

Conclusion

Bear in mind that the season of runny noses, watery eyes and coughs may be approaching for your dog. Be sure to protect them as much as you can. If they do fall ill, you can take simple measures to help; ask experts (e.g. vets) for advice. Observe your patient closely and do not hesitate to take them to a veterinary practice if the symptoms persist or worsen.

Source: FOUR PAWS

Hardy, healthy cross-breeds rule!

/in , , , , , , /by

Hardy, healthy cross-breeds rule!

Cross-breeds … mongrels … mutts – dogs with mixed parentage are universally seen as far less desirable and valued than purebred dogs. And yet, they can be just as loveable, friendly and loyal, with none of the health issues associated with some breeds.

Most cross-breeds are often far healthier than thoroughbreds, having inherited genes from other, sturdier breeds. This is especially true in the case of purebred flat-faced (brachycephalic) breeds such as Pugs, Bulldogs, Boxers and Boston Terriers.

Brachycephalic Breeds

These dogs have been bred to look more appealing and ‘cute’ to humans. Their round heads, big eyes, short noses and jaws, pudgy limbs and wrinkled skin more closely resemble human infants. But the cuteness comes at the cost of their health – these breeds typically have shorter lifespans than other similar sized dogs.

Their shortened noses and narrow air passages cause breathing problems, making physical activity difficult – especially on hot days, when they are extremely susceptible to heatstroke. Because they get less exercise, these dogs tend to be overweight. Brachycephalic breeds are also prone to eye problems and skin infections if skin folds are not regularly cleaned.

Welfare and ethical concerns arise from breeding these types, with their inherited health disorders. You are likely to spend more at the vet if you own this type of dog. And if you’re looking for an energetic, playful companion who’ll enjoy long walks on the beach and games of fetch, these dogs are not for you.

Africanis

Often dismissed as mongrels or ‘township dogs’, the Africanis is now recognised as a distinct breed, with a lineage dating back at least 7,000 years. Unlike purebred dogs that have been artificially created by selective breeding to enhance particular physical or behavioural characteristics, the Africanis has evolved through natural selection. When left to nature, it is the strongest, fastest and most intelligent individuals that survive, ensuring the breed adapts perfectly to its environment.

Traditionally, these dogs have always lived close to humans, other dogs, livestock and domestic animals. Although watchful, they are naturally friendly and well behaved, intelligent, tough and athletic. Their short coats are particularly suited to our hot climate, and they seldom suffer from skin problems or other ailments.

If your dog has Africanis blood in it, you can expect a strong and healthy companion that is loyal and protective, yet still gentle enough to be trusted around children.

Characteristics of other breeds

Many of the dogs up for adoption at our SPCA are cross-breeds. Which means they have most likely inherited characteristics from other breeds. So, before you choose your new furry friend, it’s a good idea to understand what other breeds may bring to his or her personality.

High energy Dogs

Breeds like Collies and German Shepherds are ‘working’ dogs, bred to herd sheep over mountainous terrain or work as police/guard dogs. If your dog has Collie or Shepherd blood, expect him or her to have boundless energy and a high level of intelligence.

These dogs need a significant amount of exercise (not just a stroll around the block) and activities like agility tests and games to prevent boredom. Without opportunities to work off excess energy and challenge their minds, they can become bored and destructive.

Any dog with German Shepherd blood will also be prone to a condition called hip dysplasia which leads to joint pain, arthritis and loss of mobility as they get older.

Huskies are another working dog breed. Although they are really beautiful, with their thick coats and (often) bright blue eyes, and their strength and endurance are legendary, remember that Huskies have been bred to pull heavy sleighs over vast, frozen distances.

You’ll need time and patience to train a dog with Husky blood to walk beside you on a lead, rather than taking you for a walk – or more likely, a run! You’ll also need a yard with high fences and gates to keep these famous ‘escape artists’ from getting out and running off in search of adventure.

If you’re looking for a calm, quiet companion to lie happily at your feet, those with working dog blood may not be the best fit.

Independent, aloof breeds

Along with Huskies, dogs with Chow Chow genes can be standoffish and dominant. Owing to their thick fur and cuddly appearance, children often see them as life-sized stuffed toys. However, Chows are not innately friendly and if there are small children in the family, it might be best to avoid them.

Another breed that is not particularly good with children is the Chihuahua. Again, their small size and large eyes give the impression that they are timid and gentle. But their size makes it easy for them to feel threatened, and they have a reputation for protecting themselves by snapping at strangers or small children.

Calm, friendly dogs

If you’re looking for a calm, friendly dog that gets along well with children, other pets and strangers alike, aim for a Retriever/Labrador type. These dogs are eager to please, which makes them easy to train.

But, although they’re ideal family pets, they don’t usually make good watchdogs. When strangers approach, they’re more likely to be snoozing or pleasantly surprised.

Terrier types

Energetic and fearless, Terriers make lively companions, always ready for an adventure. They make excellent guard dogs because they’re so alert, and always keen to investigate.

Most terriers are enthusiastic diggers – bad news if you’re a proud gardener – with an inbred instinct to chase, dig out, and kill small furry and feathery creatures.  They are also fearless fighters and prone to quarreling with other dogs.

Choosing the right dog

Familiarising yourself with the natural characteristics of certain dog breeds will help you choose the right pet. But many behavioural problems can be corrected through proper training and socialising with other dogs and people from an early age.

One of the saddest aspects of working at an animal shelter is when you place a dog in a new home, only to have it brought back a week or so later, because its behaviour is unacceptable.

It takes time for a new pet to settle down and to understand your rules. All dogs need patience and kindness when it comes to training – it’s unrealistic to expect new behaviours and habits to form overnight.

Please invest the necessary time and effort to build the right relationship with your dog. You will be rewarded with years of faithful companionship and fun. Visit our website for a selection of dogs available for adoption right now.

Source: Durban SPCA