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Do you think you have an aggressive dog?

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DO YOU THINK YOU HAVE AN AGGRESSIVE DOG

Image: Pixabay

Animals being aggressive is a complex behaviour and should be identified correctly and addressed immediately by qualified individuals!

Aggressive behaviour is probably the most common behavioural problem in dogs seen by behaviour professionals and the most dangerous one seen in companion dogs.  Many behaviours that people perceive as aggressive are actually normal forms of communication. Behaviour is one of the most common reasons why people surrender animals, especially dogs to shelters and aggression is one of them.

As the Whole Dog Journal shares: “The broad spectrum of “aggressive behaviours” is technically called “agonistic behaviours” and is defined in ethology as, “pertaining to the range of activities associated with aggressive encounters between members of the same species or social group, including threat, attack, appeasement, or retreat.” So, while a growl-lunge-bite sequence would be easily recognized by most people as aggression, more subtle agonistic behaviours such as a freeze, a hard stare, or even a lack of eye contact, may go unnoticed (and unaddressed)”. The lack of understanding of basic and normal animal behaviour remains part of the problem!

Part of the problem is also that there has been a cultural shift about dog aggression. I agree with Patt Miller that our culture has become over-sensitized to dog bites.  In the past, if a child was bitten by a neighbour’s dog, the mother would usually question the child about what they did to provoke the animal. Nowadays, however, the first response is to contact a lawyer or a behaviour specialist (less likely), or even take the dog to a shelter. We have become a society that is increasingly fearful of aggression. Read more about the Pitbull crisis in SA and dog bite prevention.

DO YOU THINK YOU HAVE AN AGGRESSIVE DOG

SOME FACTORS THAT MAY CONTRIBUTE TO DOG AGGRESSION

Aggression in animals can be caused by a variety of factors, such as fear, excess energy, self-defence, or pain and physical discomfort for example.

1. Lack of Socialization: Dogs that are not properly socialized may become aggressive when they encounter unfamiliar people or animals. Pups learn valuable information about behaviour from their mom/dad.  If they are removed before 10-12 weeks, then this could affect their future behaviour negatively too.  

2. Fear: Dogs may become aggressive when they feel threatened or scared which is a normal response for us as humans too. “Aggressive” behaviour when defending themselves or a mom protecting her puppies are also examples.

3. Pain: Dogs in pain may become aggressive as a way to protect themselves.

4. Dominance: Dogs may become aggressive in an attempt to establish dominance over other animals or people. Whether people believe it or not, animals do establish hierarchy and what appears to be aggressive behaviour might be part of that, although possibly normal. Sometimes just the company of other dogs may be stressful to your dog which may lead to “aggressive” behaviour.

5. Breed genetics: Some breeds of dogs might be predisposed to aggression and bad breeding practices have certainly contributed to this. All dogs can bite, but some may do more damage than others. Aggression can’t be blamed on the breed.  The breed of a dog can tell you what they can do, but how they are raised and cared for, determines what they will do.  I believe dog bites are 100% preventable and understanding body language is key to prevention.

6. Hormones: An earlier study showed that dogs with high levels of the hormone vasopressin may be more aggressive than dogs with lower levels; higher levels of oxytocin (the “love hormone”) and higher oxytocin-to-vasopressin levels are seen in the breeds least likely to behave aggressively. Hormone levels when a bitch is in heat may contribute to “aggressive” behaviour for both her and males. One of the many reasons we support spay & neuter.

7. Your response: The owner’s prior experience with dogs can contribute to or reinforce certain behaviours and when you panic it may worsen the situation. Animals need calm and confident owners. Remember that aggression can be learned; your pup can learn that if he acts aggressively, the things that scare him will go away. This means that his aggressive behaviour is rewarded, and will become more frequent.

MORE ON BEHAVIOUR

Reactivity

Reactivity is a reaction to something that makes a dog uncomfortable.  It always starts subtly and as signals are missed, ignored, or punished.  We then start to see behaviours that become a problem for us, like growling, snarling, lunging and biting.

Resource guarding (including food, toys, humans etc.)

All animals engage in defending their resources and resources come in a variety of forms. Some may make sense, others may not. It may also seem surprising to you that your dog may resource guard items because they have an abundance of things. Food, toys, you…..but resource guarding isn’t about things. It’s about feelings as R+Dogs explains it including:

  • The fear of losing out on something
  • The fear associated with not having any control
  • The fear that comes with intimidation (implied or unknowingly present)
  • The fear of the unknown
  • The fear of no escape
  • The fear of being unsafe

Resource guarding can also be linked to pain so please have your dog thoroughly checked for pain by your vet.

Trigger stacking – when the behaviour happens “out of the blue”

We’ve all experienced days when it feels like everything is going wrong and we’re left feeling overwhelmed, anxious, and ready to lash out at the next person who speaks to us. This person may think we have a serious attitude problem or need anger management when in reality, we’re just having a really bad day and don’t usually act this way. The same is true for dogs. Behaviours that appear out of the blue or are out of character can often be attributed to the stacking of different triggers.

A trigger can be anything that causes a dog to become overwhelmed and have a negative reaction. These can be small, seemingly insignificant things that we may not even notice, but they can add up and eventually lead to a reaction that is out of proportion to the stimulus. When the dog’s stress levels reach a certain point, the next event, no matter how small, can cause an unexpected reaction.

Examples include: Someone at the gate, the garbarge truck passing, strange man fixing the pool, someone on a bike passing, other dogs barking, a kid that hugs the dog etc. If this happens each on a consecutive days you likely avoid the stacking, but if it all occured in one day, they might “snap” with something simple due to stacking of triggers.

WHY PUNISHMENT IS NOT THE ANSWER!

Punishment is not the solution because it only suppresses the symptoms. Physical, punishment-based training is outdated. Such methods may include the use of choke chains, shock collars, or alpha rolls (physically rolling a dog onto the ground and holding him there) and hitting them.  While these methods peaked in popularity in the 1960s, the science of dog training has advanced significantly in the last 50 years and today’s reputable trainers/behaviourists overwhelmingly shun them in favour of positive reinforcement or reward-based conditioning. Remember punishment, whether physical or mental, can harm your pet.

Never punish a growl, which usually precedes the bite or snap action. This way they will learn from you that it is safer to skip the growl because you will punish it and then they bite “out of the blue”.  A growl is a way of communicating that they are not happy and that they need your help! No bite is “out of the blue!”

DO YOU THINK YOU HAVE AN AGGRESSIVE DOG

Image by Good Guardianship

WHAT CAN YOU DO?

You need an aggression-modifying action plan. A blanket approach can’t be followed for aggression and an evaluation by a qualified behaviourist, not just a dog trainer is important as well as addressing the individual needs of that animal if it is correctly identified as aggressive behaviour.

  • My first stop will always be to go for a vet check to rule out any underlying medical issue or pain.
  • Educate yourself about dog body language so you can be aware of your dog’s more subtle agonistic behaviours. Listen to what your pet is saying through their vocalizations or body language. TEMP – tails ears/eyes, mouth and posture. Also learn basic first-aid for pets in case of an emergency.
  • Find out what is the cause of aggression or stressors and stress levels. Look for subtle signs too. Avoid putting them in situations where they may be compelled to act aggressively and also to help them cope. Take steps to eliminate it from their life if possible. If it is something that can’t be removed, try to manage it by removing the dog from the environment when the stressor is present or re-directing your pet’s attention. If it is too difficult to be removed or managed, try to change their opinion of the stressor (gradually) through counter-conditioning or behaviour modification in the presence of the stressor. Redirect their attention or give them a job. Always stay calm!
  • Contact a behaviourist and make the time to follow the plan. Search for a behaviourist near you and ask for references. Remember that you need to look out for your pets, so if you feel uncomfortable with any trainer/behaviourist, then walk away and find someone else.  We only support fear-free reward-based training methods.  You can follow R+Dogs more on aggression and reactivity.
DO YOU THINK YOU HAVE AN AGGRESSIVE DOG

Image by Dr. Karen Becker

  • Become a calm-confident guardian by setting rules and boundaries and being consistent.
  • Meet all their needs physically and emotionally through species-appropriate enrichment.
  • Never force affection and let them come to you.

This only includes the basics and each situation must be assessed by a qualified behaviourist and an individual plan needs to be formulated to help the particular animal cope.

Many people wait too long before getting help for their dogs. Invest in learning about body language so you can help your pet to better navigate this human world they were forced into. They are your responsibility and just as most won’t dump their angry child on an already overwhelmed welfare system, you shouldn’t give up on the animals in your care because you are not meeting their needs or understanding their behaviour.

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin

How to stop dogs from jumping up?

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How to stop dogs from jumping up?

Jumping up enthusiastically is part of normal canine behaviour. It has its roots in puppy greeting behaviour which involves licking the muzzle of returning adults. For a weaned wolf puppy it is essential and normal to beg for food by jumping up and licking the adult’s mouth to stimulate it to regurgitate food. In adulthood and domestic dogs jumping up becomes a normal greeting and appeasement ritual. Dogs consider it a compliment – we consider it a nuisance, especially in adult dogs.

In all likelihood it is also a behaviour you have reinforced (rewarded) when your dog was still a puppy. Tail wagging, jumping puppies are just irresistible. How great must your dog’s confusion be when he grows up and suddenly you punish him for something that comes naturally to him and he was praised and cuddled for all along. He was never really taught not to jump on you, was he??

So, let’s teach Fluffy to stop jumping.

In a nutshell you have to make jumping up unrewarding and teach him an alternative way to greet you, which is rewarded.

While retraining your dog try to avoid the situations in which he normally jumps up. Use a leash or his collar to stop him from jumping on visitors and yourself. Alternatively ignore the jumping up and turn your back, don’t speak to him (no, not even to shout at him!!), don’t touch him. It is important that all family members stop to acknowledge the dog if he jumps.

Cool your greeting ritual. On returning home, walk past your dog, ignore him for a little while and then call him to greet him calmly. If he is not too hyper kneel down so he does not need to jump up.

Praise and greet only while all four paws are on the ground.

  • Teach an acceptable behaviour that is incompatible with jumping up like a sit or down stay (your choice).Get a nice treat, hold it in your hand but don’t give it to your dog. Don’t give any command; just patiently wait until your dog shows the behaviour you want. Praise and treat immediately.
  • Take a step away from your dog and repeat the process until Fluffy sits / downs reliably and immediately after each step you take. Don’t make your training sessions too long (5-10 min), rather practice a few times a day, as you can. Always stop on a high note and while your dog is still eager to work. Steadily increase the length of the sit before you give the treat.
  • Practice in different locations, especially close to the gate / doorways where your dog normally gets to greet you and your visitors. Slowly raise the stakes but only increase one criteria in each training session. So, if you decide to increase the time Fluffy needs to sit before he gets rewarded, do not change the location where you practice as well.Once your dog reliably sits or downs you can introduce a verbal cue or command.
  • When Fluffy’s sit stay has become fairly reliable it is time to practice with willing friends. Armed with treats ask them to ring the bell or come to the gate and only greet and reward Fluffy if all his paws are on the floor.
  • Teach your dog a “too bad” – a signal that informs him that he just lost a treat / his reward.  Once your dog understands this signal it can help you a lot to stop unwanted behaviours, as dogs learn quickly to abandon behaviour that does not pay.
  • Get your dog to sit. Hold a very tasty treat about 30 cm away from him on nose level. (His nose – not yours.) As soon as he moves towards the treat (and he will) simply say “Too bad!!” (or “No” or “AAH AAH” – or whatever word you want to use as your no reward signal) and snatch the treat away. Get him back into a sit and repeat. If your timing is good Fluffy will soon decide to change his strategy and offer another behaviour. If he stays and simply stares at the treat reward/ reinforce immediately.
  • Repeat the whole process several times to establish your “too bad” signal or practice sit-stays. To raise the stakes change your position, change the type of treat, put the treat on the floor (but make sure you can get to it first in case your dog makes a mistake) etc… Again, don’t make a training session too long and stop while Fluffy is still keen to go on.  Use these two steps consistently.  Praise and reward acceptable behaviour every time and inform your dog about his mistakes with your no reward signal as soon as he jumps up on you. In that case turn away and walk away and leave him for a minute or two.
  • Give your dog an appropriate outlet for all his energy.  Daily walks – off-leash if possible Play sessions with other friendly dogs.  Retrieve games.  Hide and seek.  Recall practice with 2-5 people.
  • Stand opposite each other or in a circle and take turns calling the dog. Reward enthusiastically when he comes to the right person.
    • Chase – Teach your dog that a certain cue e.g. “I am gonna catch you” will start the game of you chasing after him.
    • Tug-of-war – Played with rules tug-of-war is a great energy burner and good exercise for yourself and your dog. Please teach your dog the rules and stick to them.  The dog lets go of the tugging toy or rope immediately when told to.

dog

  • Give your command to let go and swop the toy with a nice treat.
  • Give your cue to retake the rope and start tugging again.
  • Practice these exchanges before your dog gets really excited with some slow-motion,calm tugging.
  • Once the dog releases the toy on command put the treats out of sight.
  • He only retakes the rope when invited to do so.
  • Get one specific toy for your tug-of-war and stick to that toy.
  • The game starts only with that toy and on your cue e.g. “Take the rope”.
  • Should Fluffy grab the toy uninvited, tell him “too bad” and interrupt the game for a short while before you start again.
  • Do not tolerate accidents
  • During the heat of the game dogs will sometimes make contact with your hand by mistake. Screech “OUCH!!!” and immediately stop the game. Fluffy is very capable of controlling his teeth and you can use this as a reminder to keep them off people at all times.
  • Other than that let Fluffy be as excited as he wants to. Let him tug, shake and growl to his heart’s content.
  • Tug-of-war makes a great reward during obedience exercises as well.

Should you encounter any problems or have any questions please contact:

  • Hermanus Animal Welfare Society : 028 312 1281
  • Janine (Trainer-Touch therapist-Puppy classes) – 082 490 1650
  • Naomi (animal communicator) – 083 226 3526

Source: Hermanus Animal Welfare

All About Dog Zoomies!

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Dog

All About Dog Zoomies!

Does your dog go into a frenzy after bath time? If so, they might have a case of dog zoomies. To learn more about this frenetic behaviour, why it happens to your dog after a bath and other triggers, keep reading.

What Are Dog Zoomies?

“Zoomies” is the informal term for the frenzied running some dogs do after a bath, which is also sometimes accompanied by frantic rubbing on the carpet or grass, or rolling and scratching in their beds. The official term for this, coined by biologists, is FRAP, an acronym that stands for Frenetic Random Activity Period, says The Labrador Site. Dog zoomies differ from regular running. A dog who runs happily out of the bathroom before settling down, for example, may simply be expressing happiness that bath time is over. A dog who’s got the zoomies, on the other hand, will take off at full speed and keep up this frenzied behaviour until they tire out.

Why Zoomies Happen After a Bath
Baths aren’t the only thing that can trigger dog zoomies. Some dogs also do this after grooming or swimming, and they sometimes get triggered during play. But giving dogs a bath seems to be a frequent trigger for dogs who are prone to zoomies. No one is certain why zoomies happen to your dog after a bath or what they mean, but here are a few guesses:

  • Stress relief: Baths tend to be stressful for pups. The frenetic movements involved in zoomies might be a way for them to relieve stress by releasing their pent-up energy from their negative feelings about having a bath, suggests I Heart Dogs.
  • They don’t like smelling clean: Dogs put a lot of effort into smelling like their surroundings and probably don’t appreciate having the scents they’ve meticulously collected replaced with the smell of shampoo. The zoomies may be an attempt to escape the perfumed smell, while the accompanying rubbing and rolling might be an attempt to restore their previous scent.
  • Drying Off: You may notice your dog running around and rubbing up against furniture. While they might be trying to get back their pre-bath smell, this might be their natural method of drying out.
  • Pure joy: It’s also possible that dogs who get the zoomies are simply so overjoyed at being done with bathtime — or any other trigger activities — that frantic running and rolling around is the only way to release their feelings and fully express their joy.

Should You Worry About Dog Zoomies?
Unless your dog has a medical reason for limiting physical exertion, such as a heart condition, stitches that are healing, or recovering from an injury or surgery, the zoomies aren’t harmful for your pooch, says The Labrador Site. However, indoor zoomies could be destructive, especially with larger dogs. In their frenzy, dogs might knock over furniture, cause breakables to topple or tear up carpeting. If zoomies are a nuisance, you’ll need to take steps to calm your frenetic pup.

What to Do About Your Zoomie Pooch
Here are a few tips to help manage your dog’s zoomie tendencies:

  • Exercise before a bath: A dog who’s already tired from a long walk or a vigorous game of fetch will be less likely to get the zoomies after bath time.
  • Don’t chase your zooming dog: This will only increase their frenzy.
  • Take your dog outside: If you have a fenced yard with a well-maintained lawn and there’s nothing you’re afraid to let your clean pooch roll in, simply open the door and let the zoomies run their course outdoors.
  • Zoomie-proof your home before bath time: Prepare a room where it’s safe for your pup to zoom their heart out by removing breakables and making it off-limits to any small children or more frail pets. Leave your pup’s bed in the room for them to roll around in to get their zoomies out.

Zoomies may give the appearance that your dog has gone crazy, but it’s completely normal dog behaviour and not something you generally need to worry about. As long as nothing gets damaged, zoomies can be fun to watch, especially when you know that they’ll run their course and your dog will eventually tucker themself out.

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Why Do Dogs Show You Their Bum?

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Dogs

Why Do Dogs Show You Their Bum?

Your dog might sit on your feet, back up into your leg, or spin in excitement until their rear is closest to you. And sometimes, when you expect a happy slurp in greeting, you might get a face full of dog butt instead.

A dog’s butt is so much more complex, both physiologically and socially, than a human’s. You probably know that dogs sniff each other’s rear ends to get acquainted, but what else goes on beneath the tail? Why do they turn around and give you their rear instead of their face? Is this normal behavior? Why do they think we want their back end instead of their front?

The Root of the Behavior

Dogs sniff each other’s rears as part of their introduction. It’s an important way that dogs get information about each other. Humans might think it’s strange or awkward, but for a dog, a routine sniff beneath the tail is more effective than shaking hands and saying “hello.”

Because of scent glands under their tails, a dog can sniff out all kinds of information, including what the dog eats, their general health, mood, sex, age, how much they exercise, and even stress level. Additionally, this “rear-first” method of introduction can sometimes stave off a conflict, as it avoids direct eye contact which leads to assessing dominance between the two dogs. Since greeting others in this manner is natural for dogs, sometimes they assume that humans feel the same way.

The other common behavior dogs will demonstrate is something usually called the “hip nudge.” A dog presenting their rear to you is a sign of passivity and friendliness. Turning their face away demonstrates that they trust you and don’t feel threatened. A dog will either touch you gently with their hip or bum, or will wait passively with their backs to you. A dog that isn’t comfortable with you won’t turn their backs and show this form of vulnerability. They’re showing that their teeth are furthest away from you and don’t intend to harm you.

Another possible, related reason why dogs present their rumps to you is attempting to “claim” you. Since those scent glands under their tails are a massive source of pheromones, chemical smells that we humans don’t notice, they may be trying to leave their scents on you, therefore claiming you as theirs. Which is totally normal. Dogs just want to show you how much they love you and be close to you.

One other simple reason: they just want a good scratch. Dogs who have been affected by fleas may have a particular spot, just above the base of the tail on their backs, where the itchy sensation becomes localized. Even if they don’t have fleas, that spot is a common favorite in a lot of dogs.

Encouraging the Behavior

Your dog’s rear-first greeting is completely normal and acceptable. Don’t be offended if your dog would much rather sit on your foot than lick your face. Even if they might seem a little pushy or persistent with their rumps, it doesn’t mean your dog is trying to control you or dominate you. Actually, the reverse is true: you dog is showing you passivity. A dog presenting their rear is communicating that they trust you not to harm them, and that they, in turn, won’t harm you. It’s a gesture made out of love, friendliness, and trust.

If your dog is really persistent—or really big—and their hip bumps are actually knocking you or your kids over, don’t punish them for their hip nudges. They don’t realize their loving greeting can hurt anyone. Instead, give them the affection and attention in greeting (like a good scratch above the tail) before they can knock into you, and distract them with a toy or something else. You can also consult a trainer to work on training your dog to sit and calm down for a few minutes when you first greet them at the door, so their excited backside bumps don’t result in any accidental knockdowns.

Other Solutions and Considerations

Since dogs only want to show you love and passivity by showing you their rears, there’s nothing about showing you their rear that should be considered concerning. You may feel differently if you’ve ever been awoken by a dog sitting on your head, but they don’t mean any harm by it. If you have a large dog and small children, you may need to work with your dog to avoid overexuberance-caused accidents, but don’t punish your dog for their hip nudges. It would be like yelling at someone for saying “I love you.”

If your dog has demonstrated other behaviors, like rubbing their bum on the carpet or grass, you may need to consult a vet to rule out parasites or other conditions that may be affecting them. 

Conclusion

A dog’s rear end is a complex body part, used not only for expelling waste and occasionally gas, but also for introductions, pheromones, and demonstrating their love and their trust for you. So, if you have a dog who loves butting in, give them a scratch and a pet. They love you!

Source:  WAG

Why does my dog eat poo?

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Why does my dog eat poo?

As revolting as the behavior of consuming feces may seem to us, and as unpleasant as it makes our dogs’ breath, to a dog, this is simply normal, instinctive behavior. We must remember that a dog is essentially a scavenger, and will take advantage of almost any food source it can find, though not all dogs engage in feces consumption, and those that do, may not do so regularly. Many wild animals exhibit this behavior, especially when food resources are scarce. In such cases, feces can serve as a source of missing nutrients and proteins, helping to sustain life. This behavior is referred to as coprophagia – a term that sounds more refined than “eating poo!”

Coprophagia can be classified as follows:

  • Acute Coprophagia: This often occurs in puppies, where the behavior typically lasts for about 3 weeks before stopping.
  • Intermediate Coprophagia: This can affect dogs aged 3-5 years, and the behavior may persist for 1-3 months.
  • Chronic Coprophagia: If a dog continues to eat feces for more than a year, this is considered chronic. It often occurs in dogs aged 5-8 years and may signal the need to adjust their diet due to the changing nutritional needs of their senior years.

If your dog exhibits this behavior, it’s important to have them examined by a veterinarian to rule out any underlying medical causes. If a medical issue is found, addressing it is critical, as behavioral interventions will likely be ineffective without resolving the medical concern.

Most dogs do not suffer health consequences from this behavior, but there are potential risks. Dogs may contract worms, especially roundworms, or even parvovirus. The risk increases with older, less fresh feces. If your dog does engage in this behavior, ensure they are dewormed every 3 months and that all vaccinations are up-to-date. These preventive measures should apply to all dogs in the household, and you may need to implement strategies to correct the behavior.

Some common reasons why dogs may regularly engage in coprophagia include:

Medical Aspects:

  • Could it possible be that the dog is simply not getting enough food? The quantities given on a packet of dog food are just an idea – each and every dog is different and their activity levels need to be taken into account as well. 
  • Eating Too Quickly: Even with high-quality food, dogs that eat very quickly may suffer from digestive issues. They may not absorb all the nutrients (malabsorption) they need and might resort to eating feces to make up for the shortfall.
  • Intestinal Parasites
  • They have a medical condition

​Behavioural Factors:

  • Boredom: Dogs that are not receiving enough physical and mental stimulation may turn to eating feces as a way to pass the time, especially when they receive attention from owners when doing so.
  • Stress: Changes in the home environment—such as a new pet or family member, or changes like illness, divorce, or moving—can cause stress and trigger this behavior. Dogs are sensitive to changes and may exhibit behavior changes as a result.
  • Separation Anxiety: If your dog only engages in this behavior when you are away, separation anxiety could be a factor. Dogs with separation anxiety often exhibit destructive behavior when their owners are absent, and in some cases, eating feces may also occur.
  • Learned Behavior: If your dog has been engaging in this behavior for a long time, it may simply be a habit, that could even have been picked up from their mother when a pup.

What to Do About It:

  • Feed a Balanced Diet: Ensure your dog is eating a high-quality, balanced dog food. Feed them twice a day at consistent times. Avoid adding table scraps or changing their food frequently.
  • Monitor Food Portions: Follow the feeding guidelines on the dog food packaging, but be mindful that some dogs may require more or less food based on their activity level.
  • Gradual Food Changes: If you need to switch foods, do so gradually over a week to avoid digestive upset. Observe any changes in your dog’s behavior and elimination patterns during the transition.

Management:

  • Prevent Access to Feces: Keep your dog in an area where it cannot access feces, and clean up any feces promptly. Do this while the dog is in another area to avoid competition for the resource. Prevention really is one of your major tools – if the dog can’t get to the stools, he can’t eat them_
  • Additives: Some additives, such as grated pineapple or enzymes purchased from the vet, may make feces less palatable to dogs. However, these are not always effective on their own, and behavioral changes, stimulation, and exercise are still important.
  • Slow Eating: If your dog eats too quickly, consider raising their food bowl slightly and ensuring they eat without competition from other dogs.
  • Mental and Physical Stimulation: Provide your dog with toys, chew toys, and plenty of physical exercise. Dogs have a keen sense of smell, and regular walks can help meet their need for stimulation, reducing the likelihood of undesirable behaviors.
  • Teach a “Leave It” Command: Teach your dog to reliably leave things when asked. This is essential when you spot them heading toward feces. Replace the object with a higher-value reward to reinforce the command.
  • Use Distractions: If you see your dog sniffing or heading toward feces, call them in an upbeat, high-pitched voice, and redirect them with a toy or activity.
  • Reliable Recall: Teach your dog a strong recall command so you can call them away from feces, rewarding them when they return. A reliable recall is an invaluable tool for managing unwanted behavior.

Finally, if your veterinarian has ruled out any health issues and you’ve implemented the above strategies without success, consider seeking the help of a professional trainer to assist with behavior modification.

Source:  Friends of the dog