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Save your Pet from Choking

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One hopes they’ll never have to endure the terrifying experience of seeing their furry friend choking. However, if this nightmare does occur, a pet owner needs to be well-equipped to save the life of their fuzzy loved one.

What to do if your Cat is Choking:
If your cat shows signs of choking such as pawing at the mouth, coughing/gagging, laboured breathing or unconsciousness, first try looking in their mouth for a foreign item. If you can’t clearly see an obstruction, wrap your cat in a towel or place them in a transport carrier and rush them to your closest veterinarian.

Adhere to the following steps if your cat is either unconscious and not breathing or they appear to be gasping for air. With your fingers, open their mouth and pull their tongue down and forward. Grasp the object if visible. Failing this, the Heimlich Manoeuvre is effective on cats too:

  1. Place the cat on their side.
  2. Place one of your hands on their back and your other hand on the soft area below the last rib.
  3. Give 5 sharp pushes inward and upwards using your hand that’s on the last rib.
  4. Assess the mouth for an object and, if found, remove it with your index finger.
  5. If the object still cannot be seen, close the mouth and breath a few shallow breaths through the nose.
  6. Continue through steps 1 to 5 until the object causing the obstruction has been removed from the airway.
  7. If they are still unconscious and not breathing by now, establish if there’s a heartbeat by placing your index and middle finger on their chest. If you cannot find a pulse, perform CPR or artificial respiration. Rush your cat to emergency care immediately.

What to do if your Dog is Choking:

  1. Holding the mouth open, look for what is choking them. If you see the obstruction at the back of your dog’s throat, attempt to carefully hook and remove it with your index finger. Be cautious as they will panic if their breathing is restricted and may try to bite you. Be careful not to lodge the object further down the throat and worsening the situation.
  2. If the object is too deeply lodged-:
    For small to medium-sized dogs:
    Lift and hold them with their back against your chest.
    For larger dogs:
    Station your dog in a standing position.
  3. For small to medium-sized dogs:
    By making fists with your hands, press firmly on the soft area directly under their ribcage. Using both hands, rapidly and simultaneously push them inwards and upwards 5 times.
    For larger dogs:
    Standing behind your dog, enfold your arms around their stomach area. Make a fist with one hand and position the other over your fist. Pushing firmly inwards and upwards, apply 5 quick abdominal thrusts.
  4. Open the dog’s mouth and look for the obstruction. With your finger, carefully hook, dislodge and remove the object.
  5. If unsuccessful:
    For small to medium-sized dogs:
    Invert and suspend the dog so their head is pointing downwards.
    For larger dogs:
    With the dog’s front paws remaining on the floor, lift their hind legs as if you were using a wheelbarrow.
  6. Again, open the dog’s mouth and sweep the mouth with your index finger to hook, dislodge and remove the object.
  7. Failing this:
    For small to medium-sized dogs:
    Position your dog in a standing or sitting stance, and give your pet 5 sharp blows between the shoulder blades using the palm of your hands.
    For larger dogs:
    Position your dog in a standing stance and give them 5 sharp blows between the shoulder blades using the palm of your hands. 
  8. Again, open the dog’s mouth and sweep the mouth with your index finger to hook, dislodge and remove the object.
  9. Repeat steps 2 to 8 until the object is removed successfully.
  10. Give your dog 5 breaths if they become unconscious, followed by 5 abdominal thrusts. You may need to perform CPR and/or artificial respiration if required.
  11. It’s imperative that you rush your dog to a vet immediately.

 *For small to medium-sized dogs, the above process can be done in the car on the way to the vet if you have someone to drive you there.

Prevention:
It is best to supervise your pets when spoiling them with unusual treats and remove any potential hazardous pet toys once you have finished playing with them.

Things to avoid giving your cat:

  • Rolled up balls of Aluminium foil
  • Corks
  • Balled cellophane
  • String and wool
  • Rubber bands rolled into a ball or loose
  • Toys with ribbons, feathers or plastic eyes
  • Dental floss
  • Toy stuffing
  • Hair ties
  • Food that swells when moist

Things to avoid giving your dog:

  • Tennis balls
  • Sticks
  • Cooked bones, especially chicken and T-bones
  • Gristle
  • Rawhide chews
  • Dental treats
  • Small dog toys
  • Kids toys
  • Plastic wrap
  • Food that swells when moist

Written for inFURmation
by Taliah Williamson

Get Your AR and CPR Skills for your Pets Down Pat

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Every pet parent should know how to perform Artificial Respiration (AR) and Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR) correctly as these emergency procedures can not only save the life of a human but that of your pet too! If possible, AR and CPR should be performed whilst on the way to your closest veterinarian.

Artificial Respiration is performed when a patient has a pulse but is not breathing. You can check for a pulse by feeling with your fingers (not your thumb) on the inside of your dogs’ hind leg where it joins the body. CPR is performed when you cannot feel a pulse and is the process of performing artificial respiration and chest compressions simultaneously.

Artificial Respiration or Rescue Breathing:

  1. Place your pet on a flat surface on their side in a lying position.
  2. Confirm your pet is not breathing by conducting the following set of tests:
    • feel for their breath on your hand
    • place a mirror in front of their nose to see if it mists up
    • watch if their chest rises and falls
    • check if the gums are a blue or grey colour due to oxygen starvation
  3. Open the mouth and ensure the air passage is free from any foreign objects. If not, begin with the Heimlich Manoeuvre as instructed in last weeks article Save your Pet from Choking.
  4. Continue with rescue breathing if/when the air passage is unobstructed.
  5. Whilst keeping the pet on its side, open the throat by raising the chin.
  6. Gently clasp the snout closed with one of your hands.
  7. Open your mouth over the entire snout area, gently blowing air into the nose. Only blow until you notice the chest rising. (Note that you will be required to blow softly for cats, smaller dogs, puppies and kittens but harder for larger dogs).
  8. Before attempting to continue rescue breathing, ensure all the air has exited your pet’s lungs.
  9. Give allowance for 20 breaths per minute or one breath for every 3 seconds.
  10. Continue this pattern until your pet is breathing independently.
  11. Monitor the heartbeat closely.
  12. If you’re not already en route, take your furry loved one to the vet immediately.

Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR)

Begin CPR straight away if you cannot feel your pet’s pulse. It’s ideal to have two of you conducting CPR so, whilst one person performs artificial respiration, the other performs chest compressions. In this case, adhere to the steps discussed above for artificial respiration and interchange with chest compressions in the ratio of one breath for every three compressions. If only one person is available to perform CPR, interchange one breath for every five compressions.

Small dogs and cats weighing under 14 kilograms

  1. Place your pet on a flat surface on their side in a lying position.
  2. Position the palm of your hand over the heart, on the rib cage. Place your free hand on top of the other one. (Take caution with puppies and kittens by placing your thumb on one side of the chest and station the remaining fingers on the alternate side of the chest.)
  3. Press down on the chest so it compresses approximately one inch. At regular intervals, compress and release for 80 to 100 compressions per minute.

For medium & large dogs over 14 kilograms

  1. Place your pet on a flat surface on their side in a lying position.
  2. Position one hand over the broadest section of the rib cage and place the other hand on top of the first. Ensure your hands don’t cover the heart.
  3. Firmly press down on the rib cage with rigid arms. Press on the chest so it compresses to approximately ¼ of its breadth. At regular intervals, compress and release for 80 compressions per minute.
  4. Persist with CPR until your pet is breathing independently and their heartbeat is constant.

Unfortunately, accidents do happen despite our best efforts to prevent them and sadly, some cases result in the need for either cardiopulmonary resuscitation or artificial respiration or both. Remember that prevention is key so ensure you schedule regular check-ups with your vet to stay abreast of any issues that may cause the need for artificial respiration or CPR to start with.

Written for inFURmation
by Taliah Williamson

Bulldog CPR

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CPR

Bulldog CPR

Someone once shared this article on Bulldogguide.com with us and we thought it would be interesting to share with all of you, though we have not tried this method ourselves, it may be good to keep in mind for future reference.

Knowing how to do CPR for Bulldogs is something you should learn. No matter how much effort we put into keeping our Bulldogs safe and away from harm, they can still get in to accidents, get choked, or drown.

CPR stands for Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation. It is a procedure composed of chest compressions and artificial respiration that is done when an individual stops breathing and has undetectable and absent heartbeat. When the dog stops breathing, this will lead the heart to go into cardiac arrest and stop beating.

Do note that doing CPR on a healthy dog can be dangerous and can cause physical problems that may result to death.

You may perform CPR on your Bulldog if he is:

  • Unconscious,
  • Not responsive,
  • Has no heartbeat,
  • And not breathing.

ARTIFICIAL RESPIRATION DURING CPR FOR BULLDOGS:

Before starting artificial respiration on an unconscious Bulldog, it’s important to check the vital signs first. Rub your Bulldog and talk to him, if he’s not responsive, you may now proceed to do a CPR.

Call emergency help as fast as you can. You may call an emergency veterinarian or your Bulldog’s regular veterinarian to let them know you are coming while someone else is performing a CPR on your Bulldog. Or you may also have someone call the emergency vet while you perform CPR on your Bulldog.

  1. Lay your Bulldog on his right side and check his pulse. Choose to lay your Bulldog on his right side so that his heart is facing up.
  2. Now, feel your Bulldog’s pulse by bring his left leg elbow back to the chest. Take note that the spot where the elbow meets the chest will be the 3rd to 5th chest space – and that is where your Bulldog’s heart is found. Feel the area or try to see if you can hear his heart beating.
  3. If you cannot feel or hear through the heart pulse point, check the wrist. To do this, you can run your finger along your Bulldog’s dewclaw pad on either front or back foot and look for a pulse. If there is faint or no pulse heard or felt, proceed to perform CPR.
  4. Check your Bulldog’s airways to see if there is anything blocking it. Remove any debris, vomit, mucus, blood, or any foreign material that is causing the blockage.
  5. Pull your Bulldog’s tongue forward and align his head with the back – slightly tilting in back. This step should help clear up the airway.
  6. Put your one hand under your Bulldog’s lower jaw to close it. Place your thumb (the one on the same hand) on top of your Bulldog’s nose and hold the mouth shut so that the air cannot leave your Bulldog’s mouth.
  7. Place your mouth over your Bulldog’s mouth and nose and blow four to five quick breaths. Make sure that the chest is rising as you do this.
  8. Place your mouth over your Bulldog’s mouth and nose and blow four to five quick breaths. Make sure that the chest is rising as you do this.

CHEST COMPRESSIONS DURING CPR FOR BULLDOGS:

If your Bulldog’s heartbeat has stopped or still remains unresponsive even with artificial respiration, then it ’s time to perform chest compressions along with it.

  1. Put your Bulldog on his back to expose his rounded chest.
  2. Place your hand on your Bulldog’s chest – on the area opposite of your Bulldog’s front leg elbow.
  3. Put your hands together and lock your fingers. Then, lock your elbows.
  4. Pump your Bulldog’s chest gently but firmly 15 times in 10 seconds.
  5. Breathe into your Bulldog’s mouth once again – still covering the muzzle to make sure that the air you’re breathing into the mouth does not go out.
  6. Take note that ratio for CPR is: 15 compressions to one breath.
  7. You may also do an abdominal squeeze on your Bulldog to aid in the recirculation of blood into the heart.
  8. Carry on with the artificial respiration and chest compression combination.

Source: English & French Bulldog Rescue SA – August 2024 Newsletter

 

Pet Emergencies – What can I do?

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Pet

Pet Emergencies – What can I do?

The following advice is not meant to replace the role of the veterinarian. However, for animals, we as the owners are generally the first responders to our pets in need. Being prepared for such unforeseen emergencies, will help ease your stress and hopefully help save your pets life.

The aim is to stabilise the pet, relieve pain if possible and provide safe transportation until you reach your vet.

Always remember, the safety of humans takes priority. You cannot help your pet if you put yourself or others in danger.

Stay Safe
Asses the environment and avoid danger or remove possibilities of further injuries.
Eg. if the animal is in the road, get it onto the side of the road immediately.

Animals in pain can be dangerous, even your own dog may want to bite due to being in shock and/or pain. If necessary, restrain the pet with a muzzle, towel or blanket (warm jacket etc) to prevent you being bitten or scratched.

If possible, transport a cat in a box to the vet.

Pet

During Car Accidents – Where you are able to assist
Remove the animal to the side of the road to a shady area, it may require you to drag them if they are large and unable to walk.

Check them to see if they are conscious and breathing (rise and fall of the chest, holding a hand or tissue in front of the nose). Check the eyes & pupils – If the eyes are open and staring with a dilated pupil, the animal will need CPR (IF NO obvious severe evisceration etc is seen).

Perform CPR if no sign of breathing – Remember ABC :  A – Airway /  B – Breathing / C- Circulation (Heart beat)

How to perform CPR in your pet.

Pet

A – Airway;
Ensure the airway is clear, remove any vomit, fluid, foreign body and pull the tongue forward.

B- Breathing;
Perform Nose-to-mouth breathing: Nose-to-mouth resuscitation is administered by first pulling the tongue forward so the tip is just through the teeth and closing the mouth.  Place your hands around the closed mouth sealing it as best you can.  Extend the neck to make a straight line from the nose to the tail and breathe into the animal’s nose.  Small dogs or cats need smaller breaths than large dogs.  After five breaths, re-assess the animal by feeling for a heartbeat and breathing.  If the animal still has a heartbeat but is not breathing, continue with resuscitation at 12 breaths a minute for small dogs and cats and 20 breaths for large dogs.  If the animal doesn’t have a heartbeat, start performing chest compressions

C- Circulation;
Check for a heart beat – Lay the dog on their right side, push the front elbow back to the chest. The spot where the elbow touches the chest is called the inter-costal space and marks where the heart is located. If you don’t see any movement in this area, place your hand over the same location and feel for a heartbeat. If no heartbeat, then start compressions.

Put both hands on the chest with straight arms, and perform cardiac compressions. For the number of compressions, the beat of “staying alive” from the Beegies is ideal.

Lay your hand over the heart (at the inter-costal space) and press firmly enough to compress the chest about one-third to one-half its usual depth. You should aim for 10 – 12 compressions over a five-second span. Repeat these steps at a one breath to 10 – 12 compressions ratio. Because you will be doing more than 100 compressions per minute, a new person should take over compressions after two minutes.

In very large dogs, if a third person is available, also compress the abdomen in large breeds. (If you’re gently compress the front part of the belly or squeeze the dog’s abdomen. Performing these chest compressions can help circulate blood back to the heart. However, it’s most important to focus on the rescue breathing and compressions. Abdominal compressions should be a secondary focus).

In deep chested dogs (eg Bull Dog, Boxer, Boerboel) perform compressions with the dog lying on its back instead of on its side.

Assess the dog
Check periodically to see if the dog has started breathing again – about every two minutes. If not, continue with the artificial respirations until help arrives or you are able to continue CPR while someone drives everyone to the vet.

Recovery Position
If the animal is breathing but still unconscious, lay it on its side with the head and neck slightly extended.  Fold a blanket or towels and place it under the shoulder but not the neck so that the chest is above the head.  This prevents fluids from the mouth going into the lungs.  Keep the pet warm with blankets and transport it as soon as possible to the veterinarian.

Wounds and Bleeding
Approach wounds as you would for a person. Wounds can be anything from a cut, punctures, scrapes or abrasions, to burn wounds.

If excessive bleeding – apply pressure above the wound (between the heart and the wound), cover the wound with a clean cloth or gauze swabs, and bandage until you can reach the vet. Do not remove the initial layers, (this may remove the clot that is forming and cause more bleeding).

Wounds with debri – gently trim excess hair around wound, rinse with running water / saline or flush with a syringe, apply silbecor / anti-septic cream, cover and bandage until you can reach the vet. Paw wounds can be soaked.

Penetration wounds – DO NOT remove any sticks / sharp objects penetrating the chest or abdomen – this may exacerbate internal problems. If necessary, apply dressings around the foreign objects and stabilize the pet and get to the vet as soon as possible.

Grazes and abrasions can be dealt with by trimming the fur around the area, cleaning with water or saline and apply a dressing making sure that it won’t stick to the wound.   

Shock
Knowing your animal is important to distinguish what is not “normal” and gauging how they are doing in a case of emergency.

What is shock? Shock is the body’s way of protecting itself. Recognizing symptoms of shock may save your animals life. There are different reasons for a shocked state, e.g blood loss, being septic due to severe infection, anaphylaxis, extreme pain to name a few obvious examples.

Symptoms will include: weakness (an animal is unable to stand/walk), pale gums (pale pink to white, or bright red to even purple), short shallow breaths, cold legs and paws or having seizures.

Examples that can lead to shock; Car accidents, falling off a height, severe infection (pyometra) or disease (diabetes), weather extremities, seizures, severe bleeding from wounds, burn wounds, knife stab wounds, gun shot wounds (including pellet guns), ruptured stomach ulcers, toxin ingestion for example.

In most cases, manage severe bleeding, keep the animal warm (wrap in a blanket) and try to keep them quiet, continue to talk calmy and gently to them and stroke them softly if they’ll allow. Do not offer food or water, alert the vet you are on the way and transport the animal there immediately.

Poisoning
Obvious signs of poisoning include drooling, vomiting, severe diarrhoea, twitching, tiredness, difficulty breathing and convulsions / seizures, collapsed pet.

Identify the toxin if possible and call your vet for immediate advice, have the following information at hand:

  • How much does your pet weigh?
  • What is the name of the toxin?
  • If the toxin is a medicine:
    • What is the strength?
    • What is the generic name?
    • Is it a special formulation (e.g., extended release)?
  • What is the active ingredient of the toxin?
  • How much do you think your pet ingested?
  • How much could your pet have ingested? (worst-case scenario)
  • How long ago (or what general time frame) did your pet ingest the toxin?
  • Is your pet showing any signs/symptoms?
  • If so, how long have you noticed the signs/symptoms?
  • How old is your pet?
  • Does your pet have any underlying health issues?
  • Is your pet currently on any medications?

It is vital to keep the pet quiet and warm and only act on the vet’s instructions as this will differ depending on the substance that was swallowed.

In the event that an animal has consumed something toxic, and you are aware of this in time, to get them to vomit (inducing emesis) before most of the absorption can take place is the best option. The golden window is within the first 30 minutes of ingestion, but even then, we can only hope for a maximum of 60% of the content to be expelled.

3% hydrogen peroxide has been recommended to use at home in the past, but the latest information has confirmed complications with oesophageal lesions and stomach ulceration, which is why it should be best avoided.

Emesis induction is contraindicated in patients that are symptomatic, have airway disease, have an altered mentation, have already been vomiting, or have ingested a corrosive/caustic agent.

Most common poisonings are due to garden chemicals, rat and snail bait, chocolate, paint or human medications in the home, consuming batteries.

At home remedy: You can attempt to get your dog to vomit by giving it a bolus of a “golf ball size” of non-exothermic washing powder (if you wet the washing power and hold it in your hand, and it does not become warm it is safe to use). If they do not vomit within 5 min, get them to the vet immediately.

Most poisonings will still require veterinary treatment as mentioned we can at best hope for only 40-60% of the toxin being expelled, but if you can prevent the major source of absorption, this can help reduce the long term effects.

If you are not sure if a product is toxic, you can always call your emergency vet for advice.
The American Animal Poisoning Control website and app can be helpful to refer to as well.

Choking
Choking is one of the most stressful emergencies one will experience. This occurs when an object blocks air from interring and leaving the lungs. The foreign object may even be lodged in the oesophagus. Physiological choking may occur due to laryngeal paralysis, anaphylaxis or heat stroke.

Symptoms include a very distressed animal, pawing at the mouth, severe respiratory distress (forceful breathing attempts), blue tongue or gums, gasping / choking sounds, excessive salivation and bulging, large eyes.

If the animal is in extreme distress, and no obvious foreign body can be identified, stay calm and bring that animal to vet as soon as possible.

Alternatively, one can try to remove the object from a choking dog’s windpipe, if it is conscious, open the mouth by grasping the upper jaw with one hand and the lower jaw with the other, tilting the head back slightly.  Pull the tongue to the side and remove the object if possible.  If this isn’t possible, stand behind the dog, put your arms under their belly just in front of the rear limbs and lift their hind legs high off the ground like a wheelbarrow.  Gently shake to see if the object will fall out.  This procedure can be repeated up to 4 times. If the foreign object cannot be dislodged or it is dangerous for you to attempt removing it, contact the vet for advice immediately.

Pet

Cats should be restrained in a towel first. Their mouth can be opened by gently pulling the head upwards and slightly back by placing the thumb and finger on either side of the jaw and the palm across the head. Use the other hand to lower the bottom jaw and remove the object.

See this video and image of the Heimlich manoeuvre in a pet.

Convulsions / Seizures / Fits
Seizures can be a symptom of a problem or a medical condition in your dog. If your dog shows this for the first time, a veterinarian must always be consulted. Causes for these can be due to poisoning, illness, infections and epilepsy.

What does a seizure look like? The animal will become distressed and restless. The first signs usually will be that of excessive drooling, lip smacking, moving into champing jaws / jaw clattering, staring eyes, urination, defecation, collapse, falling over and paddling.

IF you see this, do not approach the animal or try to “remove the tongue from the mouth”. Stay calm and start timing the seizure. Move objects away that may fall on the animal or hurt the animal, and tone done lights and noise (eg. the radio playing).

IF the seizure continues for longer than 5min, roll the animal on a towel or blanket and with the help of someone if it is a large dog, place into the car and take to the vet.

If the seizure is short acting, wait calmly until it is over, contact your vet and take it in for examination. Seizures generally only last for a few seconds, it will always feel longer. Convulsions or ‘fits’ can be quite traumatizing for a pet owner to witness.

Heat Stroke
Heat stroke is when the body’s core temperature rises above normal and due certain factors, they are not able to cool down. This starts a series of events in the body that may lead to complete organ failure and death. This is a very serious condition.

Common causes are from animals exercising in the heat of the day. From a pet being left in a car or area with no shade or ventilation. Brachycephalic dogs and cats are even more predisposed to this due to their restricted airways.

Symptoms are an animal panting excessively with increased breathing noises (from the throat), vomiting, drooling, distress, loss of coordination, collapse and acute death. The animal will also feel very warm by touch.

Should you suspect your pet maybe suffering from heat stroke, remove the animal from the hot environment, start cooling them down with cool to luke warm water. Place a fan on them or drive with the aircon on / windows open. Ice packs covered in a wet towel can be placed between the legs front (auxilla) and back (inguinal).

Transport the animal to the vet as soon as possible.

NEVER immerse the pet or use ice cold water over the body. It will only trap the core temperature due to vasoconstriction and make the heat stroke worse.

Once the pet is comfortable again offer cool water but only in small amounts.  Too much water taken in quickly may cause vomiting.

Bites and Stings
Although knowing what caused the bite or sting is helpful to the veterinarian, never put yourself at risk to try to kill or locate it.

Bee Stings
One of the most common stings that we see. Most bee stings are fortunately not a lethal problem, but may cause allergies.  Most will be stung around the mouth & face, sometimes paw. They can develop fascial swelling, urticaria (lumps and bumps everywhere) and worse case scenario, develop anaphylaxis.

In minor reactions, see if you can find the sting and remove with a sharp knife / bank card by scraping against the angle of sting. Do not struggle with fingers as it will “pump” more venom into the animal.

A cold compress can be applied to the area swelling up, and animal should be taken to the vet.

In the unfortunate event that the animals have been attacked by a swarm of bees, get them to the vet immediately. This is a very serious matter.

Scorpion Stings
Scorpion stings are extremely painful and maybe lethal. Symptoms will range from vocalizing due to unrelenting pain, excessive drooling, tremors, weakness, ataxia, collapse, paralysis and even death.

Anti-venom must be administered and generally the treatment of choice is an induced coma to manage the pain.

Snake Bites
As for snake bites, the treatment of choice is anti-venom administered by your emergency veterinarian.

Stay safe, remove the animal away from the culprit snake if possible and remain calm. Call your emergency vet while on the way. If possible, take a picture / identify the snake.

In South Africa we have 3 types of snake venom – Anti-coagulant (Boom slang), Neurotoxic (eg. Cobra’s) and Cytotoxic ( eg. Puff adder). Boom slang anti-venom must be obtained specifically and fortunately, for the rest we have multi-venom anti-venom vials available in South Africa.

Spider bites
Spider bites are mostly cytotoxic and can cause severe necrotic wounds.

What you can do on the way to vet with in these situations;

Stay calm, and if possible, identify the poisonous animal – take a picture with your phone.

In the case of limbs, initial treatment is to apply a pressure immobilisation bandage. This is done using a crepe or conforming bandage (or panty hose if a bandage is not available) over the bitten area and around the limb. Apply it firmly but not so tight that it stops the blood flow. Bandage down to the paw and then up as far as possible on the limb. A splint can be applied using a rolled-up newspaper or piece of wood with a second bandage. Do not remove the bandages, keep the animal as quiet as possible and transport him to the vet immediately.

Near Drowning
In the event that an animal is found in the pool – Immediately remove the animal, hang upside down to allow for excess fluid to drain from the lungs, neck and mouth.

If non-responsive, check for heart beat and breathing.
If a heartbeat is present start to perform CPR, with the heart beat only perform breathing until animal become responsive. Take to the vet as soon as possible.

Please note whether you have a salt or chlorine pool.

If no heart beat present, full on CPR is required.

CPR on dogs

First Aid for Pets – How to prepare for the unexpected

Source: TEARS Animal Rescue

Burns and Dogs – (What to do – how to treat)

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Burns

Burns and Dogs – (What to do – how to treat)

How to Treat a Burned Dog
Dogs just love being underfoot while their owners are cooking. While this can be an admirable trait of man’s best friend, it can also be dangerous when boiling water or hot cooking oil is being used in the kitchen.

A dog may experience first-, second-, or third-degree burns that are caused by fire, heat, boiling liquids, chemicals, and electricity. All are painful and can cause damage, even death. Superficial burns, evidenced by pain and reddening of the skin, are usually not serious. However, first aid should be given as soon as possible to ease the pain.

The following tips will help you not only identify the type of burn you’re dealing with but will also give you suggestions on how to best treat the injury.

First – or Second-Degree Burns

The signs of a first-degree burn include fur intact or singed, painful lesions, or red skin with possible blisters. The signs of a second-degree burn are singed fur or painful lesions that turn tan in color with swelling and blisters. If you notice any of these warning signs, here’s what to do:

Step 1: Restrain the dog if necessary.

Step 2: Apply cold water or ice packs to the burned area and leave in contact with the skin for 15 minutes. DO NOT apply ointment or butter.

Step 3: If burns cover a large part of the dog’s body or are located where the dog can lick them, cover the area with a sterile dressing. DO NOT use cotton.

Step 4: Wrap torn rags or other soft material around the dressing and tie or tape it just tightly enough to keep it in place.

Step 5: Transport the dog to the veterinarian as soon as possible.

Third-Degree Burns

The signs of a third-degree burn include destruction on entire skin area, black or pure white lesions, or fur that pulls out easily. Also watch for signs of shock, which include pale or white gums, a rapid heartbeat, or rapid breathing. If you notice these signs, here’s what to do:

Step 1: Restrain the dog if necessary.

Step 1a: Approach the dog slowly, speaking in a reassuring tone of voice.

Step 2: Examine the dog for shock. If he or she is not in shock, proceed to Step 3.

Step 2a: Examine the gums by gently lifting the upper lip so the gum is visible. Pale or white gums indicate the dog is almost certainly in shock. If the gums are pink, the dog is probably not in shock.

Step 2b: Determine the heartbeat. Place fingers firmly on the dog about 2 inches behind the dog’s elbow in the center of its chest. Count the number of beats in 10 seconds and multiply by 6. If the dog is in shock its heartbeat may be more than 150 beats per minute.

Step 2c: Place the dog on its side with its head extended. Gently pull out the dog’s tongue to keep the airway open.

Step 2d: Elevate the dog’s hindquarters slightly by placing them on a pillow or folded towels. To conserve body heat, wrap the dog in a blanket or jacket.

Step 3: DO NOT apply ointment or butter. Apply a dry, clean dressing over the burned area. DO NOT use cotton.

Step 4: Wrap torn rags or other soft material around the dressing and tie or tape it just tightly enough to keep it in place.

Step 5: Transport the dog to the veterinarian as soon as possible.

Chemical Burns

The signs of a chemical burn include a chemical odor such as turpentine, gasoline, or insecticide; reddened skin; or pain. If you notice these signs, do the following:

Step 1: Restrain the dog if necessary.

Step 1a: Approach the dog slowly, speaking in a reassuring tone of voice.

Step 2: Wash the area thoroughly with soap and water; repeat as many times as necessary to remove the chemical. Use mild soap and lather well. DO NOT use solvents of any kind.

Step 3: Call the veterinarian for further instructions.
Does your dog get into anything and everything? Check the next section for first-aid tips on treating a choking dog, including how to clear the airway and administer CPR.

Source: Friends of the dog