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What to NOT say to a rescue

What to NOT say to a rescue

When you work in rescue, you talk to a lot of people. People wanting to surrender and those wanting to adopt. Occasionally we hear some rather odd, or even unpleasant things. This blog is going to be about some of the things that get said to us, and how they do not impress us (as that is usually the motive behind these phrases).

  • “I used to breed”- While we appreciate the honesty, if you think about it, its quite odd to say that to a rescue. You used to fuel the pet trade which we see the consequences of. I am also not sure where people learnt that “if you truly love an animal, then you become a breeder”. I might be biased, but I’d say that the epitome of loving an animal would more likely be working in rescue.

  • “I have a lot of love to offer”- This is almost an odd thing to say as I’m not sure why anyone would get an animal if they don’t plan on loving it. I’d assume you are a bird lover if you are applying to adopt. Furthermore, birds can’t survive on love alone. They need a healthy diet and a healthy lifestyle. This continues in our next point but don’t just tell us that you will love the bird, SHOW us.

  • “I will give him/her a good home”- This is essentially a non-negotiable pre-requisite. It’s not that you can’t say this, its more about we want you to SHOW us. Show us the BIG cage you will get for the bird, show us that you offer your birds ample enrichment, show us that you are willing to offer a high variety diet.

  • “If you don’t give me an animal, then I will go buy one”- Threating or manipulating us to get what you want will not work. We are more than happy to adopt out birds, but you have to put in the effort and be a good candidate. If you want to support the pet trade, then we can’t stop you.

  • “I want a parrot that can talk”- If that is the number one factor driving you to get a bird… Don’t! These are living creatures. You cannot expect them to act like “that one parrot that you saw on a funny Facebook video”.

  • “I want a cockatoo because they are cuddly”- Absolutely not. We can only assume anyone saying this has not even spent 24 hours with a cockatoo. Furthermore, no one should be cuddling their birds, touching their wings and back, triggering hormonal responses. The reality is that what people actually want is a golden retriever with feathers.

  • “My kids want a bird”- Yes, but do you? You cannot expect any child, even the most respectful and responsible, to be the main carer for another living being, especially when animals cannot verbally communicate their needs and wants. Unfortunately, kids are also likely to lose interest over time.

  • “I have had parrots for 20 years”- While having experience interacting with parrots is good, if you have been improperly caring for the birds for the past two decades then all this experience means very little. Do you realize how much parrot care has changed in 20 years? We meet first time bird owners who have done a ton of research and we are far more impressed with them.

So how do you impress us?

Be patient. Be kind. Be open to suggestions for improvement. Be open to learning. Be open to meeting multiple birds. Have a high standard of care. It’s that simple.

Source: Cheeky Beaks

The Domesticated Parrot

Parrot

The Domesticated Parrot

The Domesticated Dog

One factor around domestication is the ability to adapt to the environment. Wild animals do not have this capability, and this results in animals going extinct because they could not adapt to changing environment.

When we hear the word “domestication”, many of us will almost immediately think of dogs. Dogs are one of the best examples showing how domestication occurred through thousands and thousands of years, and how they have become an integrated part of our lives. Dogs have been designed to be family companions, working dogs, or guard dogs, because that is what we want. Dogs can easily adapt to their surroundings and people, because we have given them the capability to do so, and they will most probably be around for many years to come, as long as people give them the opportunity.

To me, it sometimes feels, that because we were so successful with domesticating dogs, we think we can achieve the same success with other animals. If you look throughout history, you will find information about humans keeping cats, birds, reptiles and other animals as pets. Yet, not many of these “pets” have been such a big success story to domestication: cats, albeit not being domesticated nearly as long as dogs, have also started to share their homes with humans, although they still have some of their “wild genetics”, like hunting, walking around etc, which could be a problem for owners.

Parrot

What about a parrot?

So, what about parrots? Where do they fall in on the spectrum? If someone asks me if a parrot is domesticated, I will immediately answer “no”. Because they aren’t. If that same person tells me, but my bird loves me and is part of my family, my answer will most probably be: your parrot is tame and has learned to accept what he must to be part of your “flock” to survive. Again, we, as people, decided we have a need for a parrot: be it as something beautiful to look at, to appreciate their intelligence, or just have a small living creature in our mists. Just because we decided to make them part of our lives, does not mean they are domesticated.

If you look at the history of parrots, many of the parrots we have in our homes today, are one, maybe two generations removed from their wild families. What does that mean? This means they have not yet been domesticated enough through generations to curb their wild instincts: their parents or even grandparents were most probably poached in their natural habitat, brought into human civilisation, and we made the decision to either sell this parrot as a companion, or breed with him/her, to sell their offspring as companions. Just because we removed them from the wild, does not mean their instincts, genetics or behaviour have all of a sudden been “domesticated”.

Reality check:

Parrots can be tamed, but they are still wild animals. Just because they are tame does not mean they will not stop from screaming, biting, destroying, flying, causing chaos or even taking part in self-destructive behaviour, such as feather plucking. Parrots have the biological urge to scavenge, fly, and find a mate: they cannot shut off their natural instincts to fit in with human needs. We, as the caregiver and companion owner, must be able to adapt to their ways and give them the best opportunity to express their natural behaviours in a safe and acceptable manner, yet still be realistic about the fact that they are wild.

Parrot

Before making a decision to adopt a parrot, ask yourself the following questions:

  1. Can I handle the mess, because my parrot needs to forage and find the best food for himself?
  2. Can I handle the screams, because parrots are naturally vocal, loud, call to their flockmates, and tend to be more vocal at dawn and dusk?
  3. Can I accept the responsibility to provide my parrot with a lot of enrichment, love and opportunities to express his natural behaviours?
  4. Can I accept the fact that my parrot will go through hormonal changes, because that is how their bodies are genetically wired, and I might be at the receiving end of the bites, screams and mating behaviour?
  5. Can I accept that my parrot has limited expressive capabilities and might bite, attack, scream or fly away if they get frustrated, excited, scared or angry?
  6. Can I accept that my parrot might still feel frustrated and under-stimulated, and might start engaging in problem behaviours, even if I did everything I could to keep him happy?
  7. Can I accept that this is a long-term commitment and that my parrot might outlive me and my family?
  8. Can I accept the fact that my home will never be the same and that this living creature will give me mountains of happiness and joy?

These are the reasons why not every family is suited for a parrot and the parrot life. Having a parrot is difficult, but we chose them and love them, and we have to stay committed to them.

Written by: Lizelle Chapman – Director (DiptCABT, COAPE MHERA qualified & MISAP, Diploma in Parrot Behaviour)

Source: Cheeky Beaks

Why you shouldn’t give your birds attention when they scream

bird

Why you shouldn’t give your birds attention when they scream

One of the most common reasons for parrots being surrendered is their screaming.

It is important to understand the reasons why your parrot is screaming and how to handle each scenario. Listen closely to your parrot and you’ll quickly realize that their screaming is due to either being bored, seeking attention, being injured, stressed, not feeling well or an expression of joy.

We unintentionally teach our parrots to scream when we pay attention to their screaming bouts. Research shows that if we want this behaviour to continue then we need to pay attention to it. We fail at trying to control the situation by yelling back at the parrot or by running to them every time they scream. We are positively reinforcing their bad behaviour by going to parrots and giving them the attention, they are demanding. Birds are very clever, they quickly learn that screaming will lead to attention, in this way they are training their owners instead of the other way around.

Yelling at your parrot when they are screaming, isn’t helping you at all. In the wild parrots ‘scream’ to locate each other or to communicate with each other about food, predators and they also ‘chat’ at dusk (flock calling). So, if you think they will respond to your yelling by being quiet you are mistaken, all you are doing is reinforcing their screaming as they take that that you are busy having a conversation with him/her. They see it as bonding time!

So, what can I do to decrease my parrot’s screaming bouts? One way is by rewarding them when they are playing by themselves and being quiet. The best way to respond to screaming is to ignore the screaming and positively reinforce quiet behaviour by paying attention to them during the times when they are playing quietly. After a while, they will notice that screaming does not accomplish the same response from you, and that quiet behaviour leads to the attention they desire. Rewarding positive behaviour is acceptable and ignoring unacceptable behaviour is the best way to deal with problem behaviours in parrots.

Written by: Marianka Meiring
Source: Cheeky Beaks

Avian Anxiety

Avian

Avian Anxiety

Anxiety is a lot more common than anyone likes, not only in people but companion birds too.

The thing is, these birds have been removed from their natural habitats, where their wild instincts and flocks kept them comfortable and happy. Now, we put them in our homes and expect them to adjust overnight. Domestic pets like cats and dogs, have been bred over generations, to live alongside humans, in their homes, happily. Parrots are bred simply for reproduction, and there is little difference between obtaining a baby bird from a tree and one from a breeder. So with that come issues like anxiety.

Anxiety can present in many forms, from digestive issues, self mutilation, plucking, excessive vocalisations, to aggression, and even physical illness. We have spent thousands on running every test imaginable, consulting with every specialist available, only to be told the bird has anxiety.

So how do you manage anxiety? Your first step is to become best friends with your avian vet. They’re your inside view into your birds body and mind, and the greatest asset you can have when taking on a new bird. Once every physical possibility is ruled out, you start to explore their mental health. Note their behavior towards every action and move you make, the tone of your voice, how you present food to them. Pay attention to when their behavior or physical health starts to change, there is always a clue in there somewhere.

Once you’ve accurately determined their triggers, what exactly makes them uncomfortable and how they respond to it, you go from there.

There are several treatment options available for avian anxiety, which need to be discussed with your avian vet to determine which will work best for you. There are medications, and supplements, even physical aids to assist in managing these symptoms. But it’s important to never just experiment on your own, and only do so under expert guidance. I have worked with several anxious birds, with such vastly different symptoms and solutions.

My own cockatoo, the infamous Chap, suffers from massive anxiety, and is currently on a monthly hormone treatment to reduce symptoms. He was ready to wean off, but hormone season but a spanner in the works for us, so we keep going until he’s in a better place mentally. Chap’s anxiety presents as plucking, and fear. He’s never aggressive, or excessively vocal, he just gets scared of the world around him, and something as simple as a bandaid on my finger can set us back 2 days.

Another fairly well know case is Rosie, the Alexandrine. Rosie experienced some trauma in her previous home, which resulted in anxiety and PTSD. We used a similar hormone treatment on her for a while, as well as CBD, but upon finding her perfect match and new home, she is currently thriving and totally unmedicated.

Another very interesting case was a young male eclectus. Initially he was thought to possibly have PBFD, considering how ill he was, he presented with discoloration on his skin, very poor feather quality, and even cysts. On top of that he was also showing signs of aggression and excessive vocalisations. After running every possible test, amounting to thousands of Rands, he came back with a spotless bill of health. His trigger is his environment, and his recovery was rapid and truly astounding with me, as soon as his environmental triggers were removed, he had no reason to show any forms of anxiety. It is so interesting to note the different ways in which anxiety presents, alongside the various treatments. There is no one size fits all, and definitely no quick fix. It’s vitally important to have a strong support network in place to manage these conditions, and a team of experts willing to offer guidance and treatment options. While we are not qualified vets, we do work closely with them, and have a vast network that can be utilized to help your beloved friend.

Written By: Abi Strachan

Source: Cheeky Beaks

First Impressions- Tips For Adopting/Fostering A Rescue Parrot

First

First Impressions- Tips For Adopting/Fostering A Rescue Parrot

Introducing a feathered friend to your home can be most exciting. Bear in mind however, that like us, birds come with baggage, trauma triggers, and oftentimes undesirable behaviour. Having the grit to work with that bird, through the good and the bad, can make all the difference in changing its life for the better. Animal behaviourist, Lizelle Britz-Chapman, has a few tips for those who decide to foster or adopt a rescue bird.

“Accept the bad, hope for the best”

Doing so will ensure that you will not set yourself up for a failure. If you think about a bird that has been abused, for example, then you already know it will not be an easy task. However, you may be surprised. Some birds adapt faster than others, meaning that its rehabilitation may not be so challenging after all but do be prepared for potentially long journey.

Getting to know your bird

Birds are perceptive enough to hide what they are feeling. This is understandable, as if they express stress or anxiety in the wild, they make for easy prey. In that case, take what you observe with a pinch of salt. Your bird may appear relaxed, but this may not be the case. Give your parrot around 5 days to properly ascertain how it responds to you.

 
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How to settle in your parrot

Before you bring your parrot home, ensure that you have everything set up. A week before the bird arrives, make sure that the cage is in place, if possible. Ensure that food and water are in place just before you place the bird inside. This means that you can avoid sticking your hands in the cage within the first 12 to 24 hours. Setting a precedent of respect for your bird’s space can make all the difference – especially if it has been abused or neglected in the past.

You do not need to ignore your bird, however. Talk to it, put on a radio or TV for some ambient noise that may soothe the parrot and allow it to adjust to the normal, if not softer, sounds of your home.

Toys

People are usually so excited to adopt their birds that they hang every toy they’ve bought up in the cage – and it’s the worst thing you can do, as it is extremely overwhelming. Have one or two toys that aren’t extremely bright in the cage to begin with. Getting a parrot used to engaging with toys is part of the rehabilitation process. Parrots should be able to entertain themselves and not always be dependent on human interaction.

Make sure that they have space to move around and up and down as they like. Depending on the bird that you have, different types of toys are more suitable. Larger birds will need larger wooden toys as their large beaks can destroy toys more easily. Smaller birds can enjoy toys with popsicle sticks, smaller wooden blocks, and paper for example. Foraging is important for all parrots and can be introduced slowly while they learn how to forage.

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In the same way that there are different big cats, there are also different parrots. There are “old world parrots,” such as African Greys, Macaws and Amazons, and “new world parrots,” such as cockatoos and those that live in close proximity to humans. Old world parrots are typically scavenging birds. They enjoy being on the ground, gnawing on things, tearing them apart. Let this guide your decision to provide toys that they can chew such as wood or scavenger boxes. As your bird acclimatizes, you can begin to add more toys.

New school parrots are natural problem solvers. They require things that they can pick at, forage and solve.

A common mistake among fosters is overwhelming the parrot on the first day or week. We recommend leaving cleaning to once the bird has settled and is calm. Cleaning the cage on the first day can overwhelm the bird and lengthen the recovery process. This doesn’t apply to a situation where the cage is a so severe that it is a risk for the human or bird’s health.

Diet

Many rescue birds have been deprived of a healthy diet, and some forced to survive only on seeds or nuts. The first thing Lizelle wants people to remember is that it can take months to get a bird on a proper diet. There are also birds that will never be 100% converted. If you aware of a history of an only-seed diet, don’t pull out the seeds immediately, as the bird will not eat. In that case, seeds and a portion of pellets mixed together may do the trick. Additionally, you can add in a food that has a nice smell to it, such as pineapple or apple, something tangy. Sprouted seeds are also a healthier version of seeds that can help parrots’ transition to eating healthier foods. Other ideas to help transition a parrot include making a veggie mash and hiding the seeds in it and offering the vegetables in different ways (chopped fine or given in larger chunks, cooked or raw).

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Give it time and be persistent. As the parrots becomes accustomed to being in your home, you can introduce more foods. Remember that variety is crucial. There are also many calming teas (such as chamomile) that you can add in the water if need be.

Biting

All bird owners share this burden. Biting is, to some degree, inevitable, no matter how friendly your bird is. Parrots bite for various reasons – such as fear, nervousness, or simply desiring more attention from you. Luckily, there are some techniques to avoid those nasty bites.

When it comes to this, it is important to know that your bird won’t bite without cause. An attention seeking bite is the worst kind, as it has developed into a routine and the parrot actually has to learn some manners.

Nervousness and fear can be worked with, using target training and positive reinforcement, during which the bird will build a bond with you.

In her experience, Lizelle advises those to deal with biting birds by placing them on the ground immediately after the incident. A bird on the ground is vulnerable, it will then understand that if it bites, it is not high up anymore, nor protected.

First

A parrot will give you a sign before it bites, either puffing up its feathers, diluting its pupils or even hissing. If you respond to a bird that is puffing itself up by walking away, you are communicating with it, and subsequently that bird will learn that it doesn’t need to bite you.

You can also work on your relationship by respecting its boundaries, especially if the bird is not happy to be handled, in the following ways:

  • Give the bird space
  • Give it treats through the bars
  • Talk to it

With a bird that is biting for attention, you may have to get someone in to come and start training the bird. There is no quick fix for that, and it may be a behaviour that might remain. You can have a perfectly trained bird, and it may still bite.

They are unpredictable, but you will learn how to read that bird as you go along.

Lizelle warns bird owners to not put birds back in their cages when they bite. If you do, they will learn that biting and the cage share a negative connection, in terms of space. Birds will be unwilling to return to their cages after some time. It needs to be their safe space.

Give them a few seconds after you put them on the floor, while keeping an eye on them, of course. See what they want to do, if they come to you, it means that they consider you a safe place.

Touch and handling

Pointing fingers are very intimidating for a bird. It is overwhelming. Similarly, hand games are a no-go if you want to keep your fingers intact. Rather get a ball with a bell, and roll it around with your bird. Your hands are there for handling, and to work with the bird.

First

People also need to be extremely careful about where they touch their bird. Never touch your bird on its backs or wings. When you scratch their back, stomachs, wings and tails, you are actually enticing a mating behaviour – which leads to bad behaviour, biting, and frustration. Touching the head and the feet is safe in terms of working on a bond with your bird.

Avoid trauma triggers

Avoid quick movements. In the wild, this means they are in danger. Don’t surprise your bird by walk up to it from behind, for example. Make sure they can see you coming, or talk to them before you reach them.

Pay attention to the story that comes with the bird. If your bird is aggressive towards men, or people with specific hair colours, you will need to keep this in mind to avoid inciting further trauma. You will need to pin point these triggers, which is why is the first few days are so crucial. Carefully observe their body language.

Be prepared for noise

Bird owners will know all about loud noises. Screaming can go on for hours. This is why the method works as an attention seeking behaviour. People will get frustrated, neighbours may complain, so in most cases, one will relent and go and fetch the bird.

The bird will, therefore, understand that it can manipulate you in this way. If you find this to be the case, the best tactic is to divert its attention. Give it something to do as spoken about by the topic of toys. Parrots love noises and colours. Putting on a children’s movie, or something with movement is a great way to entertain your parrot. Once your bird is calm, you can go and fetch it.

In the beginning, it is hard. Try to ignore the behaviour as best you can. Sometimes the bird may just be having a tantrum. People tend to forget that parrots have the mentality of toddlers, and do not have the capability to understand when they are in a time out, for example.

Therefore, you must communicate accordingly, and let go of the notion that you can reason with your bird in simple ways.

Written by: Fern Bamber

Source: Cheeky Beaks

The Dangers of predator/bird interaction.

predator

The Dangers of predator/bird interaction.

Did you know that there are a number of reasons why birds should not have any form of interaction with predator pets like cats and dogs?

There are quite a few cases of people saying that they have had many successful interactions between their birds and cats/dogs. However, there are a lot of risks involved and it is simply not worth taking a chance.

Birds are prey animals

Birds are categorized as prey in terms of biology, and animals like cats, dogs, ferrets, and even rodents are predator animals and can inflict a significant amount of damage to a bird in the blink of an eye.

One reason for not allowing these interactions is the fact that different animals have different playstyles. That can cause serious harm; a dog might not know its own strength, especially compared to a bird and it might pounce or try to roll around with a bird leading to injury, or death.

Mammal saliva is toxic to birds

Mammal saliva is toxic to birds (even humans’ saliva) and that is cause for concern. If your bird ingests this, or a wound is inflicted (whether intentional or not), it can prove to be fatal.

If a predator pet plays with a bird, it can lead to wounds/scratches that go unseen underneath a birds’ many feathers; even a small scratch can be lethal due to the possibility of bacterial transfer going unnoticed. Coupled with the fact that birds will always try to hide their injuries or illnesses for as long as they can; chances are you won’t know something is wrong until it’s too late.

Predator animals often react on instinct

Predator animals often react on instinct and impulse – and for some dogs, coexisting may be very challenging. Many cats and dogs enjoy pursuing a nearby bird purely out of instinct. You might have had great interaction between your pets and then one day it might seem like a dog (or other predator) just ‘snaps’ and lashes out. Although it can be argued that instances like these are out of character for a specific pet – especially one you might have known for years, one has to remember that it is still instinct.

We have had numerous cases of birds coming into our care after an incident in a multi-pet household where they were left unsupervised and the bird has sustained some serious injuries. In these cases, whether the birds are surrendered or not, the vet bills can be staggering.

In closing

It is entirely possible to have a multi-pet household, however, predator and prey animals should never be left together unsupervised – even if a bird is locked in a cage or you trust your other pets unconditionally. Accidents can still happen.

Source: Cheeky Beaks

How to catch a stray parrot and what to do once they’re caught

parrot

How to catch a stray parrot and what to do once they’re caught

So you’re sitting on your stoep and suddenly you see a bright flash of color out of the corner of your eye, you look over and there you see it, a parrot in your garden. You know you should catch it, surely it’s somebody’s missing baby, but how?

You might have heard “If you want to catch a bird, spray them with a hosepipe because they won’t be able to fly away” this is honestly one of the worst things that you could do. If you spray them in weather where it’s cooler outside and they are still able to fly away, you might have just signed their death warrant because they will most likely succumb to the cold overnight.

Instead what you should do is try to get a net, a fitted sheet or a laundry basket (anything you can use to catch the bird without harming them) to catch the bird in. This way you can get hold of the bird and get them to safety because there are many predators who can do serious harm to pet parrots who are not street smart such as cats, dogs, birds of prey and the list goes on.

Once you have them in your care there are many things that need to be done:

Firstly you need to check if they have any visible injuries. If this is the case you need to take them to the vet IMMEDIATELY because birds hide their illnesses very well due to being prey animals. While they are at the vet they can also scan for a chip because some people have their birds chipped. They also need to go to a vet even if they are not visibly ill.

After this, you need to register them as found on www.ParrotAlert.com which is an international community for finding lost birds. When creating your ParrotAlert it is recommended to not give too many identifying factors such as words spoken, ring number, etc because this will be used by you to ensure that someone who contacts you is in fact the owner. This ParrotAlert poster can then be shared with vets, pet shops, newspapers, grocery stores, social media, and community groups in order to find their owner.

If someone contacts you thinking that the bird might be theirs, you can try to get positive identification through them telling you some specific information about the bird. If there are none you can try having the person come visit the bird because you can often tell if they are the owner by way of the bird showing that they know the person through making sounds, going to them, etc.

You also need to alert your local SPCA of the fact that you have found the parrot because it is illegal to not share this information with them.

If you are unable to keep the parrot safely or need assistance with sharing the information about the found parrot you are more than welcome to contact us because we have a widespread network of approved foster homes where they can go into long-term foster care until their owners are found. We do not adopt out these birds under any circumstances so even if the owner comes to us a year later they will still be able to get back their bird.

Source: Cheeky Beaks

The cost of ownership – an important but rarely spoken about issue.

ownership

The cost of ownership – an important but rarely spoken about issue.

The mother of cockatiels presents: The cost of ownership – an important but rarely spoken about issue.

I would like to discuss an aspect of bird care that makes us all uncomfortable: money.

At Cheeky Beaks, we often receive pleas for help when a bird falls ill and the owner cannot afford the hefty vet bill. We are sometimes told when educating the public on correct diet and cage size that they cannot afford an appropriately sized cage or a better diet for their parrot – and unfortunately in a great many of these cases, we are so financially strained from our own fosters and vet bills in the organization that there is little we can do to help.

So if Cheeky Beaks can’t always help with your personal vet bills who can? Unfortunately, the answer to that question is very depressing – there are a few organizations who try their best to help but even they get inundated. Clinics at the SPCAs are typically only equipped to see cats and dogs and more often than not will turn bird owners away.

I am going to address individuals hoping to adopt/buy a bird now, I will discuss two scenarios and explain why we often see them fail at Cheeky Beaks:

1.) A person has just retired at the age of 60 – they have 1/3 of their pension available immediately and the rest will be paid in monthly amounts. This person is excited – they have always wanted a parrot and now they have the money and the time to make this dream a reality.

Why does this fail? In a lot of these cases, things go very well for the first decade or so, then the person’s health starts to decline – more and more medical costs are being thrust on them, they are struggling to get by. Then their parrot falls ill – possibly due to an incorrect diet, possibly due to a dirty cage as the owner can’t clean the cage anymore with their health problems – the owner surrenders the bird being unable to afford vet fees.

What would it have cost them? A good diet for a parrot is composed of chop, pellets, and healthy seed – the pellets go for anything from R70 to R1000 a month depending on the brand.

  • For chop (vegetables, fruit, grains) – about R20 to R300 a month. A healthy seed mix will cost you about R70 a month (depending on what brand you get)
  • Parrots/parakeets go through toys like maniacs – chewing is important for beak health – new toys and perches every three months (or every month for larger destructive species) can cost you anything from R500 to R1000
  • Parrots/all birds need to see an avian vet at least once a year for a health check – birds are unfortunately not like cats and dogs where illness is physically visible and vet visits can be further spaced – an avian vet visit will cost between R250 and R500+, depending on the vet.
  • An emergency requiring surgery or treatments can easily rack up a bill of up to R10 000 and almost no avian vets allow monthly payments – therefore it is essential to have an emergency fund for your bird.

This brings us to a yearly cost (assuming the cheapest options are followed throughout and a monthly payment of R100 into the emergency fund): of approximately R7530 p/a

2.) A 23-year-old has just gotten his first job and is renting a garden cottage – he has always wanted a parrot and with his newfound freedom takes the plunge.

Why does this often go wrong? The 23-year-old is going through a transition phase – over the next few years/the next decade it is very likely that this person might buy his own home or flat, he might get promoted or change jobs, he might get married and start a family and when this person’s three-month-old baby needs diapers, the water and electricity bills are to be paid, the payment on the house and car are due… very often there is little room in this tight budget for a parrot.

Am I saying you should never get a parrot/bird? No, I am saying that a bird is a 15 to 80 year expense – being able to afford a parrot now does not equate to being able to afford one later.

Consider the following points before you get a bird:

  1. Can I currently afford the setup for the bird (cage = R1000 to R11 000, perches and toys = R500 to R2000)?
  2. Does my budget currently allow for the month-to-month expenses associated with a bird?
  3. Am I anticipating any major (and costly) life changes in the next 5 to 10 years?
  4. I have stable employment or if not I have a solid social network to support me through tough times
  5. What will happen to the parrot should I pass away or fall ill? (Setting up a will, making arrangements with friends or family, etc.)

All we ask is that you carefully consider any feathered addition to your family as we owe it to our birds to provide high-quality care.

Written By: Kathleen Boshoff

Source: Cheeky Beaks

Newly Converted Seed Junkies

Seed

Newly Converted Seed Junkies

We often get asked for advice on how to convert seed junkies (Birds who have been fed an all-seed diet all their lives) onto a healthier diet of chop (a mixture of chopped-up fruits and vegetables) and pellets. In this blog post, we will be sharing the importance of a proper diet as well as our team members’ methods of converting seed junkies. In the wild, your parrot would have had a wide variety of seeds, nuts, fruits, and vegetation to eat. In captivity, it is our responsibility to ensure that they are fed a well-balanced diet since they are unable to go to the grocery store to get some extra veg if they feel like they have been eating too many seeds. Small parrots (Budgies, Cockatiels, Lovebirds, Celestial parakeets, etc.) have a diet made up out of a larger of % seeds than larger birds. The general breakdown of their diet is: 10% fruits and sprouts, 15% seeds, 30% pellets and grains, and 45% vegetables. Common parrots (Ringnecks, Pionus, Amazons, African Greys, Cockatoos, Conures, Macaws, etc.) have a diet that is made up out of 10% fruits and sprouts, 10% seeds, 30% vegetables, and 50% pellets and grains. Other parrots such as Lorikeets and Eclectus have highly specialized diets which we will not be going into in this article.

Pellets have been specifically formulated to meet your bird’s nutritional needs. You can find different formulations for different species and different stages of life. You can even find specific pellets formulated to assist with certain illnesses and diseases such as birds who are experiencing liver or kidney failure. When feeding vegetables, it is recommended to stay away from pale vegetables that are high in water composition such as iceberg lettuce and celery as they have little to no nutritional value for your bird. When feeding you should always feed more vegetables than fruit because fruit is high in sugar which can, in turn, lead to obesity or diabetes if fed in high quantities. It is always recommended to wash fresh produce thoroughly to remove chemicals since you do not know what was done to them by the grower or store.

Now, on to some methods that our team members employ in their own flocks or fosters that they take in to convert seed junkies onto a healthier diet

Examples of seed junkie chop mixes:

Seed

Klaas:

“What I have found works for the seed junkies that have come into my care is if I start them off on the seeds that they came with, be that sunflower, millet, etc. and add finely chopped chop into it. I put it into the food processor to ensure it is in small pieces. This way as they go to pick up the seeds that they are used to, they also get in some of the vegetable mix. I usually start out with 75% bad seed (rinsed in apple cider vinegar to kill spores) and 25% vegetables and then slowly adjust the percentages until there is 75% vegetables and 25% seeds. During this process, I will also start replacing some of the bad seeds with a better seed mix such as the one from The Parrot Hotel or Parrotainment”

Pictured below:

Basil is a Budgy Boy who suffers from aspergillosis due to a diet of bad seed in his previous home. He is now on a more well-balanced diet.

Muffin (cockatiel) enjoys sitting in the kitchen while his human prepares him and his brother’s chop base for the week.

Seed

Abi’s Seed Junkie Chop Mix:

Ingredients: • Bad seed, washed in ACV to remove spores. • Healthy seed, normal and small bird. • Natures nest soft grain or ground up pellets. • Chop, mashed, or pureed.

Method: Mix 1 teaspoon of bad seed with a double serving of healthy seed and small birdseed. Mix a serving of pellet powder into that. Mix a serving of chop into that. Mix it all together, making sure all the seeds are buried in the chop/pellet mix.

Continue that for the first 3 days, reducing the number of bad seeds daily. Depending on how the bird responds, reduce the number of bad seeds until you stop adding them at all. Continue that while reducing the number of seeds to a healthy level, over the course of a few weeks.

Depending on how the bird responds, slowly start introducing whole pellets in addition to the powder, start with a teaspoon, so they explore the size and texture. Then increase the amount weekly. It is important to maintain healthy ratios of chop/pellets while doing the introduction to healthy eating so that they learn to eat everything in order to be satisfied.

Pictured below:

Cotton (cockatiel) is a recent addition to the #ChopGang.

Pauli (Patagonian conure) is a very hungry boi who now ADORES his chop.

Seed

Kathleen:

Peanut ate 100% sunflower seed with no vegetables or fruit when I got her. 1.) I gave her three days to decompress where I kept her on the 100% sunflower seed – this was just to ensure she was eating. 2.) On day 4 I started introducing canary seed mix by mixing it into her seed. I made toys out of vegetables and hung them in her cage – she mostly ignored them, but the idea was just to get her used to them. 3.) By week 2 I started adding very small quantities (half a teaspoon) of cooked rice and barley to her seed mix. I also crushed pellets (very small amount and sprinkled it over). 4.) I started introducing grated apple and cooked pumpkin by week three. I started phasing out sunflower seed – so if she was on 90% I would make 10% more veggies or crushed pellets or healthy seeds and remove that amount of sunflower seed. It was at her pace – if she stopped eating we went back a step and waited until she was comfortable again to continue. 5.) Week by week I would decrease the sunflower seed by 10% increments and some weeks I would have to increase it again – eventually, after about 4 months, she started eating chop, only healthy seeds (canary mix with added seeds), and pellets.

Pictured below:

Popcorn (cockatiel) enjoying some delicious chop.

Pancake (cockatiel) checking out her chop to spot the next bite.

Seed

Nicola:

I love using squash/butternut mash with couscous, cooked in rooibos tea and turmeric. Crushed pellets and a healthy seed mix are added to this. Then when they start taking to this mixture you start adding more and more chop to it. Some birds take longer than others to convert. My Galah refused to eat chop for over a year since I got him and has only recently started enjoying the healthy diet.

Sprouts absolutely didn’t work for my birds. I know it’s usually one of the preferred methods – especially sprouted sunflower, but I am not comfortable with sprouting it in the shell unless absolutely necessary, because of the increased risk of infections such as aspergillosis (a primary cause of which is fungal spores present inside the shell of sunflower seed and peanuts)… I feel like exposing these seeds to moisture as part of the sprouting process increases the risk of fungus growing where it should not. I do include sprouts in their daily diet, but I chop it up along with other vegetables, greens, flowers and even seeds (such as flax seed which is more easily digested in powdered form) in the food processor. None of my birds have taken to sprouts in their “natural” form, but to each their own! If you do choose to sprout sunflower seed, make sure it’s the de-husked, human food-grade variant, and watch your sprouting times so that they don’t get soggy.

Healthy seed mixes such as those from Parrotainment SA (the ‘Pluckers Mix’ or ‘Galah Mix’) or The Parrot Hotel (the ‘Seed Mix’ or ‘Eckie Mix’) has been excellent in my experience. Mixing this into mashed vegetables and very moist chop, along with powdered or crushed pellets, has been my go-to – the mixture just has to be quite crunchy to start with. Even baked treats made with these seed mixes and banana or chia seed as a binding agent (there are many recipes on the web) has piqued their interest and started the conversion process. The mushier the base ingredients, the better to start with so that the bird really has to DIG for those seeds.

Placing the dreaded black sunflower seeds (in the shell) in foraging boxes and puzzle toys has also helped my birds learn that this seed should rather be seen as a high value treat worth working for, instead of a commonly available dietary component.

Pictured below:

Founding member of the #OneLeggedGang Morgan (Bare eyed cockatoo) with a chop beak.

Our favourite Angry Ice Cream, Orochi (Galah), enjoying his chop.

Seed

Andrea:

Gomez came into our system with a note that he liked apples. He had been on an all-pellet diet, so some serious changes were needed. I added fresh fruits, vegetables, and herbs to his bowl and he went right for it. He is still a little weary of the number of ingredients in his chop but keeping his chop finely chopped and adding extra peas and corn has helped keep him interested in exploring his bowl.

Pictured below:

Gomez (Red masked conure) thinks that this is a very yummy chop recipe.

Seed

Seeing all these different methods there is one common thread. Most people trick their birds into eating the vegetables in their chop mix by mixing the bad seeds into your mix and having them eat the vegetables when they pick up the seeds they like. There is also no “ideal” timeline for how fast your bird should convert over from the bad seed mix. Some birds take to chop immediately and others can take a year or more.

Source: Cheeky Beaks

Why Do We Charge Adoption Fees?

Adoption

Why Do We Charge Adoption Fees?

Recently the topic of adoption fees in animal rescue has become the topic of fierce debate in some groups – with some going as far as calling it an illegal practice, others say that it is no better than selling the animals the rescue strives to rehome – so from Cheeky Beaks perspective why don’t we just give birds away for free?

Adoption

Funding foster care Some birds, like Yoko the Blue-Fronted Amazon (pictured), is more difficult to place because of extensive rehabilitation that is required before he/she is even considered ready to meet potential new families. Yoko was in foster care for about six months. During this time, thousands of Rands were spent on running all sorts of tests at the avian vet as well as on keeping up with food and enrichment supplies.

  • Veterinary fees – you can rest assured that any bird you adopt from Cheeky Beaks has been assessed by a qualified avian veterinarian, as most of you know, a check-up at an avian vet can cost anything from R300-R600 and although many vets give us rescue discounts, we still need to pay an amount. It is very rare for a bird to be surrendered to us in perfect condition, thus requiring only a quick check-up, often tests are needed, long courses of antibiotics, surgeries, and hormone treatments – one bird can end up costing us thousands of Rands – what this means is thousands of Rands YOU do not have to pay were you to get the bird for free from an acquaintance or a social media contact.

Adoption

Veterinary fees Mika, a female Eclectus that came into the care of our organisation in 2021, is a prime example of a bird that comes with a high medical bill. She was tested for PBFD (the result is negative) and various organ function checks and x-rays were performed to help eliminate causes for her poor feather condition.

  • The legal stuff – for us most of this is volunteer-run, but it still takes hours and hours of our time to ensure that every legal step is followed from the moment a bird is surrendered to us to the moment the bird enters his/her new home. We ensure all parties understand what they are agreeing to; this is necessary because you do not want the bird’s previous owner banging on your door claiming you stole their bird.

Adoption

Legal Processes We make use of legally binding agreements to ensure transparency and the protection of all parties involved. We need everyone to understand exactly what is expected of them and be familiar with the policies of our organisation. The main reason for this is to ensure the best possible outcome for the bird/s – we are responsible for their future and we take our job very seriously. Furthermore, our agreements have been vetted by a registered attorney and are completely above board. Molly (pictured) is a case where we had to rely on legal assistance and refer to our agreements to ensure that she ended up in an ideal home.

  • We get to save more birds. By paying an adoption fee you allow our organization to continue providing love and care to the thousands of birds in need in South Africa, you feed another beak, you pay for another check up for a bird so badly plucked it’s barely distinguishable as a bird and you make a small dent in the ocean of bills constantly flooding our organization.

You help us help them Spike is a Congo African Grey that was surrendered to our organization with the help of veterinary staff at an animal hospital in Hermanus, Western Cape. He was originally dropped off at the vet clinic in question to be euthanized, because his previous owner was in a tough spot and didn’t know who to turn to for help.

So, in conclusion – you can choose to see adoption fees as ‘buying a rescue animal’ or you can see it as necessary to ensure a fair, legal adoption process and if you still insist on branding the practice as illegal please realise that you are in effect saying that every animal rescue organisation from the SPCA to small rescues like ours are breaking the law as almost all of us charge adoption fees.

Written By: Kathleen Boshoff

Source: Cheeky Beaks