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What to NOT say to a rescue

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What to NOT say to a rescue

When you work in rescue, you talk to a lot of people. People wanting to surrender and those wanting to adopt. Occasionally we hear some rather odd, or even unpleasant things. This blog is going to be about some of the things that get said to us, and how they do not impress us (as that is usually the motive behind these phrases).

  • “I used to breed”- While we appreciate the honesty, if you think about it, its quite odd to say that to a rescue. You used to fuel the pet trade which we see the consequences of. I am also not sure where people learnt that “if you truly love an animal, then you become a breeder”. I might be biased, but I’d say that the epitome of loving an animal would more likely be working in rescue.

  • “I have a lot of love to offer”- This is almost an odd thing to say as I’m not sure why anyone would get an animal if they don’t plan on loving it. I’d assume you are a bird lover if you are applying to adopt. Furthermore, birds can’t survive on love alone. They need a healthy diet and a healthy lifestyle. This continues in our next point but don’t just tell us that you will love the bird, SHOW us.

  • “I will give him/her a good home”- This is essentially a non-negotiable pre-requisite. It’s not that you can’t say this, its more about we want you to SHOW us. Show us the BIG cage you will get for the bird, show us that you offer your birds ample enrichment, show us that you are willing to offer a high variety diet.

  • “If you don’t give me an animal, then I will go buy one”- Threating or manipulating us to get what you want will not work. We are more than happy to adopt out birds, but you have to put in the effort and be a good candidate. If you want to support the pet trade, then we can’t stop you.

  • “I want a parrot that can talk”- If that is the number one factor driving you to get a bird… Don’t! These are living creatures. You cannot expect them to act like “that one parrot that you saw on a funny Facebook video”.

  • “I want a cockatoo because they are cuddly”- Absolutely not. We can only assume anyone saying this has not even spent 24 hours with a cockatoo. Furthermore, no one should be cuddling their birds, touching their wings and back, triggering hormonal responses. The reality is that what people actually want is a golden retriever with feathers.

  • “My kids want a bird”- Yes, but do you? You cannot expect any child, even the most respectful and responsible, to be the main carer for another living being, especially when animals cannot verbally communicate their needs and wants. Unfortunately, kids are also likely to lose interest over time.

  • “I have had parrots for 20 years”- While having experience interacting with parrots is good, if you have been improperly caring for the birds for the past two decades then all this experience means very little. Do you realize how much parrot care has changed in 20 years? We meet first time bird owners who have done a ton of research and we are far more impressed with them.

So how do you impress us?

Be patient. Be kind. Be open to suggestions for improvement. Be open to learning. Be open to meeting multiple birds. Have a high standard of care. It’s that simple.

Source: Cheeky Beaks

The Domesticated Parrot

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The Domesticated Parrot

The Domesticated Dog

One factor around domestication is the ability to adapt to the environment. Wild animals do not have this capability, and this results in animals going extinct because they could not adapt to changing environment.

When we hear the word “domestication”, many of us will almost immediately think of dogs. Dogs are one of the best examples showing how domestication occurred through thousands and thousands of years, and how they have become an integrated part of our lives. Dogs have been designed to be family companions, working dogs, or guard dogs, because that is what we want. Dogs can easily adapt to their surroundings and people, because we have given them the capability to do so, and they will most probably be around for many years to come, as long as people give them the opportunity.

To me, it sometimes feels, that because we were so successful with domesticating dogs, we think we can achieve the same success with other animals. If you look throughout history, you will find information about humans keeping cats, birds, reptiles and other animals as pets. Yet, not many of these “pets” have been such a big success story to domestication: cats, albeit not being domesticated nearly as long as dogs, have also started to share their homes with humans, although they still have some of their “wild genetics”, like hunting, walking around etc, which could be a problem for owners.

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What about a parrot?

So, what about parrots? Where do they fall in on the spectrum? If someone asks me if a parrot is domesticated, I will immediately answer “no”. Because they aren’t. If that same person tells me, but my bird loves me and is part of my family, my answer will most probably be: your parrot is tame and has learned to accept what he must to be part of your “flock” to survive. Again, we, as people, decided we have a need for a parrot: be it as something beautiful to look at, to appreciate their intelligence, or just have a small living creature in our mists. Just because we decided to make them part of our lives, does not mean they are domesticated.

If you look at the history of parrots, many of the parrots we have in our homes today, are one, maybe two generations removed from their wild families. What does that mean? This means they have not yet been domesticated enough through generations to curb their wild instincts: their parents or even grandparents were most probably poached in their natural habitat, brought into human civilisation, and we made the decision to either sell this parrot as a companion, or breed with him/her, to sell their offspring as companions. Just because we removed them from the wild, does not mean their instincts, genetics or behaviour have all of a sudden been “domesticated”.

Reality check:

Parrots can be tamed, but they are still wild animals. Just because they are tame does not mean they will not stop from screaming, biting, destroying, flying, causing chaos or even taking part in self-destructive behaviour, such as feather plucking. Parrots have the biological urge to scavenge, fly, and find a mate: they cannot shut off their natural instincts to fit in with human needs. We, as the caregiver and companion owner, must be able to adapt to their ways and give them the best opportunity to express their natural behaviours in a safe and acceptable manner, yet still be realistic about the fact that they are wild.

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Before making a decision to adopt a parrot, ask yourself the following questions:

  1. Can I handle the mess, because my parrot needs to forage and find the best food for himself?
  2. Can I handle the screams, because parrots are naturally vocal, loud, call to their flockmates, and tend to be more vocal at dawn and dusk?
  3. Can I accept the responsibility to provide my parrot with a lot of enrichment, love and opportunities to express his natural behaviours?
  4. Can I accept the fact that my parrot will go through hormonal changes, because that is how their bodies are genetically wired, and I might be at the receiving end of the bites, screams and mating behaviour?
  5. Can I accept that my parrot has limited expressive capabilities and might bite, attack, scream or fly away if they get frustrated, excited, scared or angry?
  6. Can I accept that my parrot might still feel frustrated and under-stimulated, and might start engaging in problem behaviours, even if I did everything I could to keep him happy?
  7. Can I accept that this is a long-term commitment and that my parrot might outlive me and my family?
  8. Can I accept the fact that my home will never be the same and that this living creature will give me mountains of happiness and joy?

These are the reasons why not every family is suited for a parrot and the parrot life. Having a parrot is difficult, but we chose them and love them, and we have to stay committed to them.

Written by: Lizelle Chapman – Director (DiptCABT, COAPE MHERA qualified & MISAP, Diploma in Parrot Behaviour)

Source: Cheeky Beaks

Why you shouldn’t give your birds attention when they scream

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Why you shouldn’t give your birds attention when they scream

One of the most common reasons for parrots being surrendered is their screaming.

It is important to understand the reasons why your parrot is screaming and how to handle each scenario. Listen closely to your parrot and you’ll quickly realize that their screaming is due to either being bored, seeking attention, being injured, stressed, not feeling well or an expression of joy.

We unintentionally teach our parrots to scream when we pay attention to their screaming bouts. Research shows that if we want this behaviour to continue then we need to pay attention to it. We fail at trying to control the situation by yelling back at the parrot or by running to them every time they scream. We are positively reinforcing their bad behaviour by going to parrots and giving them the attention, they are demanding. Birds are very clever, they quickly learn that screaming will lead to attention, in this way they are training their owners instead of the other way around.

Yelling at your parrot when they are screaming, isn’t helping you at all. In the wild parrots ‘scream’ to locate each other or to communicate with each other about food, predators and they also ‘chat’ at dusk (flock calling). So, if you think they will respond to your yelling by being quiet you are mistaken, all you are doing is reinforcing their screaming as they take that that you are busy having a conversation with him/her. They see it as bonding time!

So, what can I do to decrease my parrot’s screaming bouts? One way is by rewarding them when they are playing by themselves and being quiet. The best way to respond to screaming is to ignore the screaming and positively reinforce quiet behaviour by paying attention to them during the times when they are playing quietly. After a while, they will notice that screaming does not accomplish the same response from you, and that quiet behaviour leads to the attention they desire. Rewarding positive behaviour is acceptable and ignoring unacceptable behaviour is the best way to deal with problem behaviours in parrots.

Written by: Marianka Meiring
Source: Cheeky Beaks

Avian Anxiety

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Avian Anxiety

Anxiety is a lot more common than anyone likes, not only in people but companion birds too.

The thing is, these birds have been removed from their natural habitats, where their wild instincts and flocks kept them comfortable and happy. Now, we put them in our homes and expect them to adjust overnight. Domestic pets like cats and dogs, have been bred over generations, to live alongside humans, in their homes, happily. Parrots are bred simply for reproduction, and there is little difference between obtaining a baby bird from a tree and one from a breeder. So with that come issues like anxiety.

Anxiety can present in many forms, from digestive issues, self mutilation, plucking, excessive vocalisations, to aggression, and even physical illness. We have spent thousands on running every test imaginable, consulting with every specialist available, only to be told the bird has anxiety.

So how do you manage anxiety? Your first step is to become best friends with your avian vet. They’re your inside view into your birds body and mind, and the greatest asset you can have when taking on a new bird. Once every physical possibility is ruled out, you start to explore their mental health. Note their behavior towards every action and move you make, the tone of your voice, how you present food to them. Pay attention to when their behavior or physical health starts to change, there is always a clue in there somewhere.

Once you’ve accurately determined their triggers, what exactly makes them uncomfortable and how they respond to it, you go from there.

There are several treatment options available for avian anxiety, which need to be discussed with your avian vet to determine which will work best for you. There are medications, and supplements, even physical aids to assist in managing these symptoms. But it’s important to never just experiment on your own, and only do so under expert guidance. I have worked with several anxious birds, with such vastly different symptoms and solutions.

My own cockatoo, the infamous Chap, suffers from massive anxiety, and is currently on a monthly hormone treatment to reduce symptoms. He was ready to wean off, but hormone season but a spanner in the works for us, so we keep going until he’s in a better place mentally. Chap’s anxiety presents as plucking, and fear. He’s never aggressive, or excessively vocal, he just gets scared of the world around him, and something as simple as a bandaid on my finger can set us back 2 days.

Another fairly well know case is Rosie, the Alexandrine. Rosie experienced some trauma in her previous home, which resulted in anxiety and PTSD. We used a similar hormone treatment on her for a while, as well as CBD, but upon finding her perfect match and new home, she is currently thriving and totally unmedicated.

Another very interesting case was a young male eclectus. Initially he was thought to possibly have PBFD, considering how ill he was, he presented with discoloration on his skin, very poor feather quality, and even cysts. On top of that he was also showing signs of aggression and excessive vocalisations. After running every possible test, amounting to thousands of Rands, he came back with a spotless bill of health. His trigger is his environment, and his recovery was rapid and truly astounding with me, as soon as his environmental triggers were removed, he had no reason to show any forms of anxiety. It is so interesting to note the different ways in which anxiety presents, alongside the various treatments. There is no one size fits all, and definitely no quick fix. It’s vitally important to have a strong support network in place to manage these conditions, and a team of experts willing to offer guidance and treatment options. While we are not qualified vets, we do work closely with them, and have a vast network that can be utilized to help your beloved friend.

Written By: Abi Strachan

Source: Cheeky Beaks

First Impressions- Tips For Adopting/Fostering A Rescue Parrot

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First Impressions- Tips For Adopting/Fostering A Rescue Parrot

Introducing a feathered friend to your home can be most exciting. Bear in mind however, that like us, birds come with baggage, trauma triggers, and oftentimes undesirable behaviour. Having the grit to work with that bird, through the good and the bad, can make all the difference in changing its life for the better. Animal behaviourist, Lizelle Britz-Chapman, has a few tips for those who decide to foster or adopt a rescue bird.

“Accept the bad, hope for the best”

Doing so will ensure that you will not set yourself up for a failure. If you think about a bird that has been abused, for example, then you already know it will not be an easy task. However, you may be surprised. Some birds adapt faster than others, meaning that its rehabilitation may not be so challenging after all but do be prepared for potentially long journey.

Getting to know your bird

Birds are perceptive enough to hide what they are feeling. This is understandable, as if they express stress or anxiety in the wild, they make for easy prey. In that case, take what you observe with a pinch of salt. Your bird may appear relaxed, but this may not be the case. Give your parrot around 5 days to properly ascertain how it responds to you.

 
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How to settle in your parrot

Before you bring your parrot home, ensure that you have everything set up. A week before the bird arrives, make sure that the cage is in place, if possible. Ensure that food and water are in place just before you place the bird inside. This means that you can avoid sticking your hands in the cage within the first 12 to 24 hours. Setting a precedent of respect for your bird’s space can make all the difference – especially if it has been abused or neglected in the past.

You do not need to ignore your bird, however. Talk to it, put on a radio or TV for some ambient noise that may soothe the parrot and allow it to adjust to the normal, if not softer, sounds of your home.

Toys

People are usually so excited to adopt their birds that they hang every toy they’ve bought up in the cage – and it’s the worst thing you can do, as it is extremely overwhelming. Have one or two toys that aren’t extremely bright in the cage to begin with. Getting a parrot used to engaging with toys is part of the rehabilitation process. Parrots should be able to entertain themselves and not always be dependent on human interaction.

Make sure that they have space to move around and up and down as they like. Depending on the bird that you have, different types of toys are more suitable. Larger birds will need larger wooden toys as their large beaks can destroy toys more easily. Smaller birds can enjoy toys with popsicle sticks, smaller wooden blocks, and paper for example. Foraging is important for all parrots and can be introduced slowly while they learn how to forage.

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In the same way that there are different big cats, there are also different parrots. There are “old world parrots,” such as African Greys, Macaws and Amazons, and “new world parrots,” such as cockatoos and those that live in close proximity to humans. Old world parrots are typically scavenging birds. They enjoy being on the ground, gnawing on things, tearing them apart. Let this guide your decision to provide toys that they can chew such as wood or scavenger boxes. As your bird acclimatizes, you can begin to add more toys.

New school parrots are natural problem solvers. They require things that they can pick at, forage and solve.

A common mistake among fosters is overwhelming the parrot on the first day or week. We recommend leaving cleaning to once the bird has settled and is calm. Cleaning the cage on the first day can overwhelm the bird and lengthen the recovery process. This doesn’t apply to a situation where the cage is a so severe that it is a risk for the human or bird’s health.

Diet

Many rescue birds have been deprived of a healthy diet, and some forced to survive only on seeds or nuts. The first thing Lizelle wants people to remember is that it can take months to get a bird on a proper diet. There are also birds that will never be 100% converted. If you aware of a history of an only-seed diet, don’t pull out the seeds immediately, as the bird will not eat. In that case, seeds and a portion of pellets mixed together may do the trick. Additionally, you can add in a food that has a nice smell to it, such as pineapple or apple, something tangy. Sprouted seeds are also a healthier version of seeds that can help parrots’ transition to eating healthier foods. Other ideas to help transition a parrot include making a veggie mash and hiding the seeds in it and offering the vegetables in different ways (chopped fine or given in larger chunks, cooked or raw).

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Give it time and be persistent. As the parrots becomes accustomed to being in your home, you can introduce more foods. Remember that variety is crucial. There are also many calming teas (such as chamomile) that you can add in the water if need be.

Biting

All bird owners share this burden. Biting is, to some degree, inevitable, no matter how friendly your bird is. Parrots bite for various reasons – such as fear, nervousness, or simply desiring more attention from you. Luckily, there are some techniques to avoid those nasty bites.

When it comes to this, it is important to know that your bird won’t bite without cause. An attention seeking bite is the worst kind, as it has developed into a routine and the parrot actually has to learn some manners.

Nervousness and fear can be worked with, using target training and positive reinforcement, during which the bird will build a bond with you.

In her experience, Lizelle advises those to deal with biting birds by placing them on the ground immediately after the incident. A bird on the ground is vulnerable, it will then understand that if it bites, it is not high up anymore, nor protected.

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A parrot will give you a sign before it bites, either puffing up its feathers, diluting its pupils or even hissing. If you respond to a bird that is puffing itself up by walking away, you are communicating with it, and subsequently that bird will learn that it doesn’t need to bite you.

You can also work on your relationship by respecting its boundaries, especially if the bird is not happy to be handled, in the following ways:

  • Give the bird space
  • Give it treats through the bars
  • Talk to it

With a bird that is biting for attention, you may have to get someone in to come and start training the bird. There is no quick fix for that, and it may be a behaviour that might remain. You can have a perfectly trained bird, and it may still bite.

They are unpredictable, but you will learn how to read that bird as you go along.

Lizelle warns bird owners to not put birds back in their cages when they bite. If you do, they will learn that biting and the cage share a negative connection, in terms of space. Birds will be unwilling to return to their cages after some time. It needs to be their safe space.

Give them a few seconds after you put them on the floor, while keeping an eye on them, of course. See what they want to do, if they come to you, it means that they consider you a safe place.

Touch and handling

Pointing fingers are very intimidating for a bird. It is overwhelming. Similarly, hand games are a no-go if you want to keep your fingers intact. Rather get a ball with a bell, and roll it around with your bird. Your hands are there for handling, and to work with the bird.

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People also need to be extremely careful about where they touch their bird. Never touch your bird on its backs or wings. When you scratch their back, stomachs, wings and tails, you are actually enticing a mating behaviour – which leads to bad behaviour, biting, and frustration. Touching the head and the feet is safe in terms of working on a bond with your bird.

Avoid trauma triggers

Avoid quick movements. In the wild, this means they are in danger. Don’t surprise your bird by walk up to it from behind, for example. Make sure they can see you coming, or talk to them before you reach them.

Pay attention to the story that comes with the bird. If your bird is aggressive towards men, or people with specific hair colours, you will need to keep this in mind to avoid inciting further trauma. You will need to pin point these triggers, which is why is the first few days are so crucial. Carefully observe their body language.

Be prepared for noise

Bird owners will know all about loud noises. Screaming can go on for hours. This is why the method works as an attention seeking behaviour. People will get frustrated, neighbours may complain, so in most cases, one will relent and go and fetch the bird.

The bird will, therefore, understand that it can manipulate you in this way. If you find this to be the case, the best tactic is to divert its attention. Give it something to do as spoken about by the topic of toys. Parrots love noises and colours. Putting on a children’s movie, or something with movement is a great way to entertain your parrot. Once your bird is calm, you can go and fetch it.

In the beginning, it is hard. Try to ignore the behaviour as best you can. Sometimes the bird may just be having a tantrum. People tend to forget that parrots have the mentality of toddlers, and do not have the capability to understand when they are in a time out, for example.

Therefore, you must communicate accordingly, and let go of the notion that you can reason with your bird in simple ways.

Written by: Fern Bamber

Source: Cheeky Beaks