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How to Handle Cat Spraying

Cat

How to Handle Cat Spraying

Keeping the house clean can be a challenge for anyone who owns pets. There’s nothing worse than getting home after a long day at work to a terrible odor or mess on the floor. Spraying is one of the most common behavioral problems in cats, along with scratching. But while your first instinct may be to discipline your cat for this undesirable behavior, keep in mind that she is predisposed to this practice, and it should be redirected.

Why Does My Cat Spray?

In the wild, cats leave scent signals to communicate with other cats through rubbing, scratching, urinating, and spraying. Scent signals let cats know when another cat has claimed an area as her own, when she was there and might return, and if she is looking for a mate. While most neutered cats who live indoors do not feel the need to spray, those who do are typically under stress and want to surround themselves with their own scent for protection. Even though you’ve created a safe, nurturing environment for your cat, she may still feel distressed and want to mark her territory.

What to Do if Your Cat is Spraying

First, determine whether your cat is spraying or urinating. Cats urinate by squatting onto a horizontal surface; spraying occurs standing up. The cat makes a treading motion with her back feet and quivers her tail, leaving her scent mark on a vertical surface.

If your cat has begun urinating outside of her litter box, be sure that the box is regularly cleaned. If the behaviour persists, take her to the vet to check for lower urinary tract disease and cystitis. A urinary tract infection can cause your cat to urinate while standing, confusing the act with spraying. Cystitis can also cause symptoms of lower urinary tract disease, including frequent attempts to urinate, straining to urinate, crying while urinating, and blood in urine. Cats who suffer from recurrent cystitis often benefit from increased fluid intake, which may require switching your cat to wet food. Consult your vet for nutritional management.

Consider recent changes to your household that may be affecting your cat’s behaviour—especially if she spends most of her time indoors—such as the arrival of a new baby or pet, a house move, schedule changes, or even rearranging furniture. To deter threats from other household or neighbourhood cats, block access to cat flaps or doors. Once your cat feels that her territory is not threatened, she will no longer feel the need to mark it.

Moving furniture or redecorating can be upsetting to a cat, because it removes her scent from places she has designated around your house. By spreading her scent to familiar places, she may feel less inclined to spray. Rub a soft cotton cloth gently around your cat’s face; this is where her individual scent and pheromones are produced. Apply the cloth several times per day to areas where your cat is spraying. Synthetic pheromones are also available through your vet.

Cats also feel most comfortable when they are secure. You can make your cat feel a sense of security by limiting her patrol area to one or two rooms.

Once your cat has urinated or sprayed in your house, she may return to that spot again if the area isn’t thoroughly cleaned.

  • Keep your cat away from the area as long as possible. For example, place a piece of furniture on the spot.
  • Wash the area with enzyme-containing laundry detergent and rinse thoroughly. Then, mix a solution of 50 percent white vinegar and water, and spray.
  • Spray and scrub the area with rubbing alcohol and dry. Test delicate surfaces on a small area before application.
  • Talk to your vet about a stain and odor remover to get rid of residual odors.
  • Do not use an ammonia-based cleaner. Because urine contains ammonia, this might attract your cat to return to the spot.

Finally, with any behavioural issues your cat might display it is important to never yell at or punish her. This can only cause a situation such as spraying to get worse as she may become more stressed. Cats do not understand punishment, so to correct a behaviour problem is best to train her and continue to show her love and affection. Slowly over time you can help redirect poor behaviours and have the cute and cuddly cat you’ve always wanted.

If your cat is suffering with urinary issues, ask your vet about how Hill’s Prescription Diet c/d Urinary Stress or Hill’s Prescription Diet c/d Urinary Stress + Metabolic cat food can help.

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

6 Signs of ageing in cats

cats

6 Signs of ageing in cats

Your cat has offered you countless hours of love, laughs and companionship over the years. Now that she’s getting older, it’s time for you to repay all her unconditional love with extra attention and care to guarantee that her senior years are happy ones.

Senior Cat Signs
Some cats begin showing age-related physical signs as early as age seven, while others are still friskier than kittens at ten. A general rule of thumb is that a cat is classified as “senior” if she’s over 11 years of age.

As the parent of an aging cat, you’ll want to watch for changes in behavior that could signify an underlying problem. Here are five common age-related symptoms and conditions you might see in an older kitty:

  1. Sleeping all the time…or not at all: While slowing down as a cat ages is normal, if you notice your cat is sleeping all the time or more deeply than normal it might indicate a more serious health problem. Conversely, cats that are more active at night and not sleeping as much, might be experiencing age-related changes. The Tree House Humane Society in Chicago also notes that an older cat that suddenly seems to have much more energy might be suffering from hyperthyroidism. Talk to your vet if you have any concerns about her overall health.
  2. Confusion: If your cat is getting confused by ordinary tasks or objects she is used to navigating like finding her bed she may be reaching her golden years. This can also be a sign of a larger cognitive issues, so you should consult your vet if you notice this type of behavior.
  3. Having trouble climbing stairs or jumping: Arthritis is common in older cats. While your cat might not limp or show other obvious signs of painful joints, you might notice she has more difficulty than she used to jumping into a litter box, climbing stairs or jumping on furniture.
  4. Unintentional weight loss or weight gain: In an older cat, weight loss can be a sign of any number of problems, from heart and kidney disease to diabetes, notes the University of Illinois School of Veterinary Medicine. Some pets’ food and energy needs can increase as they move from adult to senior cats, and they may lose weight faster than they can eat to catch up. On the opposite side of the spectrum, as cats age, their metabolism slows down so they don’t need as many calories as they used to. If you notice your cat is starting to pack on the pounds, it might be time to transition to a senior cat food  that is better equipped to meet her biological needs.
  5. Behavioral changes: Is your cat having accidents when she never did before? Is she avoiding human interaction? These can be signs of a cat in kidney failure, a cat in pain, or a cat that is mentally confused — health conditions that are more prevalent in senior aged cats. Your veterinarian can help you get to the bottom of your cat’s behavioral changes.
  6. Matted or oily fur: A cat that has stopped self-grooming could be in pain because of arthritis or dental issues.

Older cats should see a vet every six months. But if you notice any change in your cat’s behavior or appearance you should never hesitate to call sooner. A vet, after all, will be familiar with all the signs of aging in cats.

Caring for Your Golden Girl
You can also take some easy steps at home to improve your cat’s quality of life in her senior years:

  • Choose a high-quality food made for senior cats:, Youthful Vitality 7+ Cat Food, for instance, is specially formulated to support brain function, energy and vitality, healthy kidneys and bladder, healthy digestive system and luxiurious fur.
  • Give her a warm place to rest: Especially if she suffers from arthritis, she’ll appreciate you moving her bed from a drafty area.
  • Think easy access: Give her a litter box, water bowl, and food bowl on every floor of your house. If she seems to be having trouble climbing into the litter box, find one with lower sides or even try an old cookie sheet.
  • Help her groom: Many people rarely brush their cats because they are such good self-groomers. But as your cat ages, brushing your cat serves a dual-purpose of acting as a bonding activity and keeping her coat healthy when she can no longer do it alone.
  • Continue to Exercise Her: Here are some easy ways to keep your senior cat moving.

It’s important to remember that aging is not a disease.  Cornell University’s Feline Health Center notes that aging is a natural process, and the body — whether human or feline — goes through many complex physical changes as the years progress. But even though some of your cat’s conditions might not be easily cured, they can likely be controlled. Help your cat enjoy her senior years by making sure she has access to vet care and that she has plenty of love and attention at home.

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Cat Ear Emotions: How Cat Ears Move With Their Mood

Ear

Cat Ear Emotions: How Cat Ears Move With Their Mood

Cats are expressive creatures who use verbal and nonverbal language to communicate with their pet parents. Learning how to interpret your feline friend’s behaviour will reveal a lot about their cat ear emotions and the important role ears play in conveying information.

Just as cat tail language reveals what a cat is thinking and feeling, cat ears move with emotion, too. “Like a sophisticated satellite dish turning to pick up a signal, the cat’s external ear, or pinna, rotates up to 180 degrees to locate and identify even the faintest of squeaks, peeps or rustling noises,” said Animal Planet.

With close observation, you’ll notice a pattern of various cat ear emotions revealed by even the subtlest gesture.

Neutral
When a cat’s just being a cat, their ears are facing forward in what’s called the neutral position. Neutral ears indicate that a cat is feeling happy and relaxed and wants to chill out. When your cat’s ears are in neutral, it’s a great time to take advantage of their friendly mood, so now’s the time to carefully pick up that cat and get your snuggles!

Straight Up and Forward
A cat will move its ears into this alert position when they want to pay closer attention to what’s going on around them. Your cat wants to know, “What’s that noise? Who’s there? What’s going on?” Sometimes, their ears are even facing different directions! Cats who are inclined to patrol their home exhibit this ear position and make great guard cats. In addition to “confident, curious cats,” pointed out PAWS Chicago, “a cat who is hunting or playing will also keep [their] ears forward to collect as much auditory information as possible to execute a successful pounce.” Are your cat’s ears pointed up? Engage them in some fun.

Ear

Twitching
A cat whose ears rotate with quick, sudden movements is a cat who is on a mission. As an extension to the “straight up and forward” move, a cat will move their ears back and forth (and shake their backside) when they’re ready to execute the attack. This is another great opportunity to indulge your cat’s hunting instincts, being sure to direct their attention to toys and not your feet. If your cat twitches frequently and paws at their ears, contact your veterinarian to rule out ear mites or other underlying health problems.

Low and Sideways
If your cat’s ears are flattened against their head in “airplane mode” — as if they’re about to take off in flight — it means that they’re frightened or nervous, and it could lead to aggressive behaviour. When a cat’s ears are in this position, the cat is telling you that they’re uncomfortable and need some space. Your cat may hide in their favourite spot until they’re feeling more secure, so it’s important to respect their bubble and their privacy.

Low and Facing Out
In this position, a cat may be signalling that they’re not feeling well, said Best Friends Animal Society. Cats are experts at hiding an illness, but this ear position helps to identify if they’re under the weather. If you suspect that your cat isn’t feeling so hot, pay close attention to other possible signs of illness, including observation of their eyes and tail, and share your concerns with your veterinarian.

Ear

Low and Flat
There is no doubt about which cat ear emotions are associated with this position. Basically, it translates to “step off” and is indicative of potential aggressive behaviour to come, including biting or scratching. In multiple cat households, you may see this when cats are tussling. If it happens, keep an eye on the cats and discourage aggressive play. It’s in the best interest of humans to walk away from a cat when their ears are in this position, or you could risk getting injured.

When it comes to understanding a cat’s body language, the ears have it. Cat ears move with emotion and purpose, opening up the lines of communication between you and your furry friend.

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Beware, Corporate Body Bullies!

Corporate

Beware, Corporate Body Bullies!

In recent times, there has been a development in policies of residential complexes and retirement homes that has had a significant effect on many people’s relationships with their companion animals. In many cases the tactics employed by Corporate Body Bullies are underhanded, illogical and prejudicial.

This document will give people a cleat understanding of the variables involved and some strategies for dealing with these dubious tactics.

The Law.

Firstly one needs to establish whether the scheme within which one resides is a sectional title scheme, a homeowners association or possibly even, the now outdated, shareblock scheme, as each of these have specific laws, rules and regulations.

In most cases, residential complexes are bound by the Sectional Titles Act. In addition, Municipal By-Laws will apply, and it’s a good idea to have an understanding of both before deciding to buy or rent in a given complex.

Sectional title schemes are established under the Sectional Titles Act of 1986, as amended, and within this Act are prescribed management and conduct rules, the latter of which [annexure 9 of the Act] deals with pets.

The Sectional Titles Act (ST) includes the following clauses relevant to this discussion:

35 (3) Any management or conduct rule made by a developer or a body corporate shall be reasonable, and shall apply equally to all owners of units put to substantially the same purpose.

35 (5) (a) If the rules… …are substituted, added to, amended or repealed, the body corporate shall lodge with the registrar a notification in the prescribed form of such substitution, addition to, amendment or repeal.

35 (5) (c) A substitution, addition, amendment or repeal contemplated in paragraph (a) shall come into operation on the date of filing of the notification referred to in that paragraph.

Conduct Rules

1. Animals, reptiles and birds

(1) An owner or occupier of a section shall not, without the consent in writing of the trustees, which approval may not unreasonably be withheld, keep any animal, reptile or bird in a section or on the common property.

(2) When granting such approval, the trustees may prescribe any reasonable condition.

(3) The trustees may withdraw such approval in the event of any breach of any condition prescribed in terms of sub-rule (2).

Such Conduct Rules may be changed, but only if a resolution is passed by a BC quorum that will be stipulated in the Rules themselves.

These rules are not made on a whim and once clarified, have to be registered at the Deeds Office. The rules may not be amended or changed without a special resolution and any changes also have to be registered with the Deeds Office. This essentially means that bodies corporate may not change the rules governing the complex indiscriminately to suit certain owners or individuals.

Interpretation

The very first of the prescribed conduct rules for ST schemes states that no owner or occupier of a section is allowed to keep an animal, bird or reptile without the written consent of the trustees.. In other words, the ‘no pets’ rule is actually the default position for ST schemes.

However, conduct rule number one also says that the trustees may not unreasonably withhold their approval if an owner or tenant applies to them for permission to keep a pet – although they can impose conditions under which that pet must be kept, and can change their minds if these are not met.

On the other hand, the conduct rules pertaining to a particular ST scheme can be altered from the standard rules, either by the developer before establishment of the scheme, or more usually by the body corporate of the scheme after establishment.

Provided these new rules are filed with the Registrar of Deeds, they are the ones that all owners and tenants in that ST scheme have to follow – which is how it is possible for some schemes to have an absolute ‘no pets’ policy. It is therefore very important for prospective buyers who would like to keep a pet to find out what the situation is before they commit to a purchase in any particular scheme.

To some people a pet may be much more than a companion and may even be a reason to get up in the morning. It would be unthinkable for them to live without their pet. Pets are often a huge bone of contention and although a body corporate may choose to ban all animals, if this rule is amended at a later stage and there are people with pets currently living in the complex, the new rule must be deemed reasonable. In other words, although no newcomers to the complex may own pets in the future, those who already do so cannot be asked to remove their animals.

But if the sectional title complex they like has an amended rule that bans all or certain types of pets, or imposes a limit on the number of pets that an owner may keep, the trustees will have no choice but to follow that rule – no matter what they might privately think of a pet-lover’s pleas to bend it.

In simple terms the onus is on the owner or occupier to apply for written consent from the trustees to keep a pet, prior to bringing the pet onto the property.

Yes, it is true, that the trustees cannot unreasonably withhold permission, but reasonable is relative and pets are an emotive issue!

Often pets are brought on to the property illegally, i.e. without the trustees’ prior written consent, and then prospective purchasers or tenants and/or their agents, see these pets and assume that the scheme is pet friendly, which is not the case.

You can argue the ‘reasonableness’ should consent be withheld, but once you move in with the pet, you already, in most cases, in breach of the rules and place yourself in a more difficult position.

If you were informed of the rules of the complex when you moved in, the BC are acting in their right to say that you should remove one dog (immediately). They do however have to follow protocol in doing so.

If however this is a “new” arrangement i.e. they had an AGM and the trustees decided that instead of 3 animals, all owners are only allowed 2 animals. They have no right to say that you need to get rid of your dog.

They should wait until the dog passes away and then you will not be able to replace it.

The BC are also not allowed to give you an unreasonable ultimatum – you should have received a letter in the lines of “It has come to our attention that your dog (the big one who looks like a boerboel) is posing to be a nuisance as he is barking non-stop. In the BC rules it states that should your dog be a nuisance you will be asked to remove the pet from the premises within 7 days. Please try to ensure that your pets are not a nuisance to other residents.”

With them just saying remove a pet (not being specific) – you could be removing the pet who is not causing a nuisance.

  1. They are supposed to give you a chance to rectify the problem. (Stop the barking)
  2. They should be specific about which dog is being the nuisance
  3. The burden of proof is upon the complainant, who must produce evidence that the dog(s) are a nuisance.

If they were following the correct procedures you should have received at least 3 (warning) letters and then a letter stating that your dog will be removed from the premises within 7 days – and this should also then be followed up by lawyers letters.

The point of course is this blanket insistence on “one dog per property”. Any blanket view taken by trustees/agents is an improper exercise of discretion. There are any number of studies showing that dogs on their own (i.e. away from the pack, human or canine) are genetically hot-wired to panic and start barking, either out of boredom, or separation anxiety or in an attempt to “summon the pack”. Most of these problems can be eliminated by having two or more dogs.

Options

Owners who think the trustees have unreasonably withheld their consent may apply to court for declaratory orders that the trustees’ consent has been unreasonably withheld.

This happened in the case Body Corporate of the Laguna Ridge Scheme No 152/1987 v Dorse 1999 2 SA 512 (D) which dealt with the interpretation and application of PCR 1 (Prescribed Conduct Rule 1). A woman was refused permission to keep her dog in her flat and she challenged the trustees’ refusal by taking them to court. The court held that each request for permission to keep an animal had to be considered on its own merits and the decision of the trustees had to be based on the facts and circumstances relevant to the particular case. The restriction on the keeping of animals was designed to avoid the causing of a nuisance to the other occupants in the building and the fact that permission was refused despite the fact that the woman’s dog did not bark and was never allowed to roam on the common property meant that the trustees had not adequately applied their minds to the matter. In the end the court substituted the trustees’ decision with its own and allowed the woman to keep her pet in her flat.

If the trustees decide to allow a particular owner or occupier to keep a pet, they are entitled to impose reasonable conditions attaching to the consent. Reasonable conditions could include a requirement that the owner must clean up after their pet immediately if it messes on the common property, that the pet may not cause a nuisance to other owners or occupiers, and that the pet is not to be on the common property unless it is on a lead. If any reasonable condition is breached, the trustees will then be entitled to withdraw their consent and the owner or occupier may be forced to remove the pet from the complex.

Some schemes have amended the prescribed rules and now have a rule that no pets are allowed in the scheme whatsoever. This absolute prohibition on the keeping of pets could be argued to be an unjustifiable infringement on a person’s right of ownership. Then again, if the rule was in place and filed at the Deeds Registry before the owner bought into the scheme, the legal principle caveat emptor (let the buyer beware) comes into play as the buyer is presumed to have knowledge of the rules applicable to the scheme.

If a scheme has the prescribed rules and wants to adopt a “no pets” rule as an amendment to PCR 1, this could only be done by the body corporate passing a special resolution amending PCR 1 and having this filed at the Deeds Registry. But because all rules must be reasonable, the new rule must take into consideration the vested rights of owners who already have pets at the scheme.

The ‘grandfathering’ principle is appropriate here. This means not taking rights away from those in whom they are already vested. That is, you should not make those who have pets get rid of them, but once those pets die they should not be entitled to replace them. Jennifer Paddock

If one has regard to a blanket prohibition on the keeping of any pets whatsoever, without provision for asking for consent, the element of “reasonableness as which is required by The STA, provision for exceptional circumstances such as the need by an occupant/owner for a blind dog, and also leads to the inequitable scenario where for example where an owner or occupier may not keep pets such as an iguana, a hamster in a cage, a snake in a cage, or even a bird in a cage, as well as fish in a fish tank or coy pond, none of which are capable of creating any nuisance to other occupiers or owners.

What’s even more remarkable is that the reasonableness/lawfulness/constitutionality has never been tested in a court of law and there is simply no precedent as the closest case law is the Dorse matter where the rule was not a blanket prohibition but had provision for the asking of permission which the court found to have been unreasonably withheld and ruled in favour of the owner/occupier.

The lack of certainty surrounding this issue lays the foundation for unnecessary friction between Trustees and owners/occupiers and there is presently only speculation and conjecture on the part of experts in this field.

Managing Agent ‘rules’

The managing agents all copy each other’s “bright” ideas in the quest to attract clients. They get away with it in the big developments because a lot of the owners are absentee investor owners, only interested in the rent, and unlikely to want to spend money fighting for something that doesn’t affect them. Tenants, who have to rent rather than buy, usually don’t have the money to litigate.

If it starts getting known in the industry that the rules are invalid and expose trustees to breach of fiduciary duty claims, and the rules are challenged regularly enough, maybe they will back down and stop using them.

Bottom line: the rules are an unlawful attempt to divert to managing agents the powers/duty of:

1. Trustees to consider each and every pet request, judge it on its merit and impose reasonable conditions, AND

2. Sectional title owners, to the extent that the rules ban pets generally or in respect of certain units (a blanket ban requires the conduct rules to be amended by special resolution).

A special resolution to amend the conduct rules (to exclude pets) can only be passed at the AGM when it rolls around, or at a special meeting of owners called for that purpose. What people forget is that a special meeting can only be called (per Sectional Titles Act) by at least 25% of the owners. So managing agents/trustees cannot get a bright idea and send out a notice for the special meeting. They need at least 25% of owners to be on board just to call the meeting.

If an owner is faced with such a proposed resolution and is panicking because she/he knows that the rest of the owners (more than 75%) are a bunch of pet-hating psychopaths who will bulldoze through the vote, there is a very obscure section in the Sectional Titles Act that provides that any proposed amendment to conduct or management rules that seeks to impact negatively on proprietary interests of owners must be a UNANIMOUS vote (not just 75%). I would argue that the exclusion of the right to have pets in my unit reduces the pool of potential buyers I could eventually sell to, thus reducing the market value of my unit, so such a vote would have to be unanimous.

Forcing potential tenants to be interviewed by the trustees to see if they are suitable candidates for the complex is an absolute no no. No one except the owner has the right to say who may and who may not occupy a unit.

The owner has the right to have pets with the permission of the trustees and on the written conditions they may impose. However, any  “pet application form” is ultra vires, in my view, the powers of the trustees. Firstly, the trustees cannot delegate that power to managing agents and also cannot incorporate “by reference” estate agents’ rules (they may change from time to time – I have also never heard of “estate agents’ rules – one agent’s recommendations are hardly industry wide).  Also, in exercising their power to permit or refuse a pet, or the conditions thereto, the trustees have to act reasonably and exercise their discretion properly in each and every case. In my view, the trustees are incorrect (to the extent that they approved the application form as follows:

A blanket refusal to allow pets on the upper floors is not a proper exercise of discretion in each case – for example, what if the pet is old and just sleeps all day without needing to go out?

Similarly, a blanket restriction on one pet is also not a proper exercise of discretion in each and every case – again, what if pets are small or old?

The revoking of permission within 24 hours for reason of “disturbance” is also not reasonable – what is a “disturbance”? One bark, two? 16 barks per hour?

The restriction as to height is also arbitrary. We all know a dog’s capacity to be a nuisance is based on energy levels, not size. A beagle is far more likely to cause a disturbance than a laid-back greyhound or Great Dane.

Having said all of this, however, the owner must be the one to refuse to be bound by the “pet application form” – the tenant has no say in law.

Summary Guidelines

Recently advocate Elizabeth Nieuwoudt, a member of CatPals, took on a case regarding cats in a sectional title complex and won. Some very clear rules and principles crystallised in the process,  and Elizabeth has kindly agreed to share these with us. They are the following:

  1. If a complex has a notice board at its gate proclaiming that animals are prohibited, or if its constitution or bylaws contains a rule prohibiting animals, no one with pets should move there or buy a unit there. You will not be able to change that rule. However, if there is a general rule permitting animals, permission to keep pets may not unreasonably be withheld from you.
  2. Before renting or buying in a complex, ask to be shown its constitution and bylaws before making your decision. If they are reluctant, reconsider living there.
  3. NB: If a complex permitted animals when you moved in, it cannot force you to get rid of your animals, even if the rules are changed by majority vote and animals are no longer permitted.
  4. In the circumstances outlined in (3) above, you will not be able to bring in new animals, notwithstanding the fact that you had permission to keep animals when you first moved in.
  5. Rules regarding the keeping of animals cannot be changed retrospectively, in other words, they cannot come into effect at some date in the past. Such rules can only be effective from the day on which they are made.
  6. If, whilst you are living in a complex where your animals are permitted or were permitted when you moved in, you are challenged by the body corporate, its chairman, the caretaker or any other individual  because your animals are “causing a problem”, each case should be considered on merit. There is no blanket precedent ruling with regard to “nuisance” animals. Determine in advance what “nuisance” means in that particular complex before you commit yourself to moving there.
  7. If you are dealing directly with the owner of a unit, make absolutely sure of your position. The owner cannot grant permission conflicting with the complex’s rules. If you do obtain such permission, get it in writing.
  8. A complex may not discriminate by granting permission to keep only cats, dogs, birds etc. This is regarded as discrimination against you as a person and your constitutional rights.
  9. It is absolutely imperative that you know your rights. To this end, ensure that you study a copy of the constitution, the bylaws (normally the house rules), and any other rules, especially if they are relevant to meetings or the powers of the body corporate. You must know specifically who has the right to vote at an annual general meeting, what constitutes a quorum for such a meeting, and whether 2/3 of the voters are required to have a previous decision amended or overturned. This latter point is the normal procedure at most meetings.
  10. The body corporate has no powers whatsoever, except those conferred upon it by majority vote at a correctly constituted annual general meeting. “Correctly constituted” means sufficient notice had to have been given, a quorum had to have been present at all times, and a majority had to have voted in favour of or against a proposal. The minutes also need to reflect the exact wording of the matters that were voted on and the outcome of the vote.
  11. Some estate agents are not truthful about matters such as pets, because they want the deal done. Verify your facts.
  12. Keep emotion out of all negotiations. It has no persuasive power in a court of law.
  13. Lastly, but most importantly: Before you sign anything and move in, get the e-mail address of the chairman of the body corporate. Write to this person, confirming your verbal enquiry in regard to your “animal rights” and specifically what “nuisance” is understood to mean in that particular complex. Courts base their decisions on facts, law and evidence. Keep your letter to the chairman short, to the point and absolutely devoid of any emotion. If you do not get a reply, follow up within a reasonable time. If this person runs into you and replies to your query verbally, immediately follow up with an e-mail, confirming your understanding of what was said. (In the court case advocate Nieuwoudt recently won, her case was strengthened by such a complete written record of events. According to her, there may well have been a different outcome without it.)

Compiled by Derek du Toit

Source: Companions

Extinguishing Heat Exhaustion in Cats

Heat

Extinguishing Heat Exhaustion in Cats

Are you a pet parent living in an area with hot summers? If you don’t have air conditioning, you may be worried about your cat getting heat exhaustion. There may be a flurry of questions going through your mind: What will happen while you’re gone during the day? Will your kitty sweat — or suffer?

Fortunately, there are some things you can do to keep your home cool enough for your feline friend.

Hot Town, Summer for the Kitty

When temperatures start to rise, your cat might be more comfortable than you think: according to The Washington Post, her average body temperature stays around a toasty 38 degrees Celsius. Since her ancestors evolved in the desert, she can also get most of her moisture from food.

However, this doesn’t mean she’ll be safe and comfortable locked in a warm house. Cats can’t sweat as humans do. Instead, your feline friend needs to release heat continually by laying on cool surfaces, panting, and drinking cold water.

Make sure your kitty is comfortable by doing a few precautionary things around the house:

  • Water, water, everywhere: Since water will evaporate faster in the summer — and your cat might be disinclined to trek around the house — it’s a good idea to keep several bowls of cold water throughout your home. If you live in a multi-level house, keep a bowl on every floor. Putting them under a chair or away from sunlight and cat food might make them more appealing. You can even place some empty pet bowls in the freezer overnight and fill them in the morning to help the water stay colder longer.
  • Homemade ice pack: Leave a homemade ice pack where your cat likes to lounge. If your cat gets too warm, a frozen water bottle wrapped in a towel is a good daytime nap buddy. (Remember to put it back in the freezer when you return home.) Never leave your cat alone with a commercial ice pack, since the chemicals in it could be dangerous to her if it pops or leaks.
  • Close the curtains: By darkening a few rooms, you can limit the amount of sun and heat that enters your home during the day. Not only will your feline friend be thankful for the shade, but you also won’t be hit with heat the minute you walk in the door.
  • Keep a fan running: A small fan or two in the right spots can help circulate air and keep your cat cooler throughout the day. You can also consider using a timer for the fan if you don’t want it running all day.
  • Make her a cool cave: Cats love to cool down under furniture, so consider putting your bed on risers to give her lots of room to relax and sleep comfortably. Alternatively, putting a tablecloth on your kitchen table might give her a breezy hideaway on a cool tile or wood floor.

Safety Tips

Cats need water and fresh air to keep cool — but more isn’t always better. Make sure your cat doesn’t have access to large tubs of water or swimming pools. Never leave your tub full of water or large buckets of water out for your cat since this can create a drowning hazard. If you have a pool, make sure your cat can’t access it when you’re not at home.

You should also be careful not to leave windows wide open. Since cats can push out screens and escape — or a heavy window could close on them suddenly — you should not leave low-to-the-ground or heavy windows open while you’re not at home. Do leave at least one window that your pet can’t reach cracked for fresh air. Blocking a small open window with a fan can also help circulate air while keeping kitty from getting any ideas.

Heat Exhaustion in Cats: Warning Signs

Even when you do everything you possibly can to help keep your kitty cool, heat exhaustion in cats is still a possibility. Heat stroke in cats is actually more common in certain breeds than others. Since Persians and other flat-faced cats can’t pant as well as other breeds, they have a harder time naturally cooling down their bodies and are more susceptible to heat exhaustion, according to Preventive Vet.

If you notice excessive panting, a rapid heart rate, sunken eyes, or little to no urine in your cat’s litter box, she may be dehydrated and suffering from heat exhaustion. Check her hydration levels by gently pinching the skin between her neck and shoulders: Does it stay “tented”? Is it slow to smooth down? If so, she is likely dehydrated, and it’s important to get her to the veterinarian right away. They may then need to administer intravenous fluids before the condition gets too severe.

The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) recommends that cats with very flat faces and those who are elderly, obese, or have lung or heart issues be watched closely for heat exhaustion. If your cat has one of these conditions — and you have tried ways to keep her cool without air conditioning — you may want to talk to your vet. The most important thing to remember is to be proactive and observant when the thermometer climbs so you can spot the signs of heat exhaustion quickly and resolve them.

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Why cats won’t use litter tray

cats

Why cats won’t use litter tray?

Unfortunately, cats don’t always connect with the litter box. Even cats that know the drill will sometimes choose another spot at home. “House-soiling” can become a concern for even the best cat owners. It can be a sign of a serious health issue or simply the result of changes around the house. Pay close attention for clues to put an early end to a nasty problem for both you and the pet you love.

Here are the most common causes and some solutions to try:

Dirty litter trays:
Cats don’t like using a tray if it is heavily soiled.

Solution – Litter trays should be cleaned out completely every couple of days and topped up with fresh litter daily once the solids and clumps are removed.

Put off by litter:

Solution – Using scented litter, deodorants or disinfectants with strong smells may put the scent-sensitive cat off using the tray. Use a mild detergent and hot water or disinfectant specifically recommended for tray cleaning. Cats learning to use the tray initially may need to establish it as an appropriate toilet site and too frequent cleaning may weaken the association.

Wrong type of litter:
Solution – Changing the consistency or type of litter may put the cat off using it. Hard wood based pellets may have been acceptable as a kitten but as cats get heavier there are some that object to walking on the uncomfortable surface. Cats prefer fine grain litter with the consistency of sand with no scented deodoriser. If you want to change the type you use, mix the new one in gradually over a week to gauge the cat’s reaction.

cats

Position of the litter tray:
Solution – If the tray is positioned in the open where the dog, children or other cats disturb it, the cat may feel too vulnerable to use it. Instead it may seek a more secure spot behind the television. Cats may not like to use a tray if it is next to a noisy washing machine or tumble dryer. Place the tray in a quiet corner where the cat only has to watch in one or two directions at once rather than in the open or in a thoroughfare. Placing food near the tray will put the cat off using it so place feeding bowls elsewhere.

Type of litter tray:
Solution – Some cats prefer the security of a covered tray whilst others prefer an open tray as it offers more options for escape. If you normally use an open tray it may be worth purchasing one with a lid or vice versa. An inverted box with one side cut out or careful positioning of house plants may provide the necessary privacy. Some covered trays have flaps over the entrance which could be one obstacle too many for the more insecure cat.

Bad associations: 
Solution – Occasionally a cat decides not to use a tray because it has had a bad experience there. Giving medication or touching a cat whilst it is using the tray may be sufficient to create a bad association. Repositioning the tray to a quiet spot may help.

Early training:
Kittens will often soil in the house when they are young if they are given immediate access to large areas. 
Solution – When kittens first arrive in their new home they are only weeks away from their original litter training by their mother. Their bladder and bowel control are not as developed as an adult so it is important that the young kitten has easy access to the litter tray at all times. It is advisable to confine the kitten to one room initially with increasing periods of time to explore other areas after a few weeks. Every time the kitten uses the tray it is establishing an entrenched behaviour that will be maintained throughout its life.

If you need any more advice or help with your cat please contact your local vet or vet nurse and they will be able to advise you further.

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Weird Things Cats Do & Why We Love Them

Cats

Weird Things Cats Do & Why We Love Them

Most cat parents agree that they adore their feline friends because of the weird things they do. The unpredictability of funny cat behavior (Why do cats love boxes? And why do they zoom around at 3 a.m.?) livens up any household. But what you see as silly and entertaining is just your cat following their instincts.

Here are six weird things cats do and the science behind them.

Cats

1. Kneading

One of the most common and distinctive catlike displays of affection is kneading. You climb into bed or curl up in your favorite chair, and they show up to massage you and the blankets. Nursing kittens knead to stimulate their mother’s milk flow. Cats may also use the behavior to scent-mark a beloved human, create a comfy bed or express contentment. It’s a trait kittens carry into adulthood, notes the American Animal Hospital Association, often used to calm themselves during times of anxiety. In the cat world, kneading equals love and safety.

2. Presenting Their Tail

A cat showing their bottom to you feels like one of the least charming weird things cats do. This often happens when they leap into your lap for attention, pacing back and forth as you pet them. Instead of a face-to-face interaction, your kitty turns around and sticks their nether regions in your face. Gross!

Well, not to the cat. Scent rules the feline world: Cats identify each other by smell. Presenting the tail end first shows you your cat trusts you. That high-held tail position offers a friendly greeting. Does your pet consider you a fellow cat? No, but they’re communicating the way they would to other cats, Discovery explains. Consider it a friendly invitation for a “howdy” sniff. (You don’t have to accept the invitation, of course.)

Cats

3. Countertop Cruising

Cats love lounging on countertops, shelves and other second-story territories. The higher the perch, the better. That poses a hygiene and safety issue for cats who stroll across the stovetop. But you can’t stop this natural inclination.

Pet cats, though no longer wild, inherit the instinct to seek high ground, notes Feline Behavior Solutions. They’re hunters, sniffing out and stalking that tasty butter dish but also prey. Finding the highest ground in your house offers a nifty lookout, far from dog-sniffing and kid-poking range. Plus, it has the added perks of food rewards. To redirect your cat’s natural urge, put away tasty temptations, make counters unattractive and give your climbing kitty a cat tree or other perch higher than the counters.

4. Staring at Nothing

Cats tune in to their environment. They hear and see things people can’t, like that dust bunny floating through the air 30 feet away. It may freak you out to see your kitty sitting in a corner staring at something invisible, but rest assured, those feline eyes are trained on something important.

According to Cats Protection, cats hear things in the ultrasonic range that humans can’t. They also have an eight-octave hearing range, hearing higher and lower than many other mammals. We can’t know if they watch ghosts move across the room. But, more likely, your cat tracks the sound of insects behind the walls or mice in the ceiling.

Your cat also sees things differently than you, explains Live Science. Humans see light in a spectrum of colors from red to violet. But some animals (including cats) see the ultraviolet spectrum invisible to us, notes Live Science. Rodents use this ability to see and follow urine trails. We don’t know what cats see, but when they act as though something enthralls them, it might just be invisible.

5. Zoomies: Running Around the House

Zoomies could be the weirdest of the weird things cats do, and they do it a lot. One moment, they’re sitting there, quiet and unassuming. Then, they dart across the room at top speed to chase … nothing. Zoomies (properly known as Frenetic Random Activity Periods or FRAPS) can startle us, especially in the middle of the night. This normal cat behavior has several potential causes.

In most cases, zoomies express pent-up energy or counteract kitty boredom. Kittens and young adult cats indulge more often. Even older felines can burn up the house from time to time. According to Pet Health Network, other cats zoom after using the litter box because they feel so good after emptying, or they zoom when they experience discomfort eliminating.

Cats

6. Hiding in Boxes and Small Spaces

Have you ever wondered, “Why do cats love boxes?” Is there anything cuter than seeing an adorable face sticking out of a paper bag? Or finding your cat curled up in a tiny cardboard box that’s three times too small? Cats love seeking small hiding places. Although this behavior is endearing, it also makes cats feel safer. They seek comfort, security and warmth in spots that seem so odd to you, like a shoebox or the bathroom sink.

As predators, cats instinctively find hiding places from which to stalk prey. But as prey themselves, they also appreciate defensive hiding spots to stay safe. More than that, the swaddling effect that comforts human babies also benefits cats. They can create this hugging benefit by squeezing into boxes to calm their stress, explains Live Science.

These are only a few of the weird things cats do to bring love, fun and comfort into your world!

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Keep their paws purrfect

paws

Keep their paws purrfect

Your cat’s paws are as important to them as your hands and feet are to you. As a cat parent, it’s important to help your cat maintain healthy paws. This quick guide to cat paw care will help you keep your furry friend’s paw pads healthy and clean.

Why Care for Cat Paw Pads?

Think for a moment about how cats use their paws. They walk across a variety of surfaces in your house, including dirty surfaces such as the litter box. If they’re allowed outside, they may walk across rough and rocky ground, step on thorns and other sharp items, and tread across hot or cold surfaces, depending on the weather. Cats allowed outdoors in the winter are also susceptible to walking through harsh salts and other de-icing agents that can be harmful to paws.

At some point in the day, your cat will take it upon themselves to clean their own paws by licking them, possibly ingesting any harmful substances their little paws may have picked up in the process. Regular cat paw care that includes inspections and cleaning will not only help keep your cat’s paws clean and safe for licking, but also allow you to manage dry and cracked paws, cuts and other injuries before they can become infected.

Cat Paw Care Guide

paws

Getting Started

While inspecting your cat’s paws on a regular basis will be good for ensuring you keep them healthy, you can also look for signs that something may be going on with the paws. If you notice your cat is limping or not putting pressure on a certain paw, they might have something stuck in it or could have injured their paw in some manner. Keep in mind that cats are good at hiding their pain, so you may have to pay close attention. Additionally, when a cat is injured they might be less receptive to you inspecting them, so do your best to keep them comfortable and calm while you inspect them.

If your cat isn’t used to having their paws handled, you may need to get them accustomed to the idea. It can be helpful to get into the habit of massaging your cat’s paws when you hold or pet them, from an early age onwards. This will not only help them become accustomed to having their paws touched and handled, but will also help you detect any debris that might be caught between the toes and paw pads.

Paw Inspection

Once your cat tolerates you handling their paws, make it a point to examine them daily, especially after they return from an outdoor journey. Look for scratches, sores, and foreign objects. If you find something embedded in your cat’s paw, try using a pair of tweezers to gently remove it. If it’s deeply embedded, call your veterinarian.

Paw Cleaning

Either before or after your inspection, use a soft cloth to wipe all those tiny cat paw pads, as well as around the pads and between the toes. This will clear their toes of dirt, litter dust and any chemicals or foreign objects.

paws

Nail Trimming

Use a pair of nail scissors or clippers to trim your cat’s claws. The PDSA recommends using a set of scissors or clippers specifically designed for cat claws, as human nail clippers can cause your cat’s nails to split.

Be sure to trim just the tips, taking care to avoid the quick (the part of the nail containing sensitive nerves and veins). If you do accidentally cut into the quick, use some styptic powder to stop the bleeding. If you don’t have any styptic powder on hand, it may be a good idea to buy some at your local pet supply store just in case you need it.

Treating Dry Cat Paw Pads

If your cat’s paw pads become dry, irritated or cracked, contact your vet; they may recommend that you try moisturising them with olive, coconut or another food-quality oil that will be safe for them to lick. You may want to confine them to a bathroom while the oil absorbs to keep them from tracking it through the house. If they need something more heavy-duty, ask your vet to recommend a good paw moisturiser for cats. Avoid lotions made for humans or other animals, which may be harmful if ingested.

Additional Considerations

Of course, one of the best things you can do for your cat’s paws is to keep them indoors, where they’ll be less likely to become injured or encounter extremely hot or cold surfaces or dangerous chemicals. Dry winter air can dry out your cat’s paws, so consider using a humidifier during cold months. A scratching post can also help keep their nails in good condition, not to mention keeping your carpet and furniture safe from the urge to claw.

With everything involved in caring for cats, it’s easy to overlook proper cat paw care. Making a daily habit of checking and cleaning their paws will make it easy to keep them in good shape.

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Is cat biting normal?

Cat

Is cat biting normal?

Why Do Cats Bite While Playing?

In the middle of a play session, without warning and seemingly out of nowhere, your cat clamps down on you for a quick, painful nibble. First thought: “Ow! Aren’t we friends?” Second thought: “Why do cats bite when I play with them?”

One of the most common reasons why cats like to sink their tiny — but mighty — teeth into our skin is play aggression. But the good news is that with this information, you’ll not only understand why cats nip, but you’ll also have tools you need to help redirect or, ideally, prevent this unwelcome behaviour.

Why Do Cats Bite While Playing?

Essentially, if your cat nips at you during playtime, it’s their way of saying, “This is fun, but let’s take it to the next level.” Engaging in play with your furbaby is a terrific bonding experience, but if your cat’s playfulness turns aggressive, they’ll bite you or, perhaps, use your entire arm as a chew toy.

Cats play in a way that “involves typical predatory and play behaviours,” notes the ASPCA: stalking, attacking, clawing and biting their perceived opponent. It’s not unusual for them to act this way with their pet parents, and once they’re in the throes of roughhousing, they may have difficulty pulling back.

Cat

Sometimes cat parents don’t realize they’re actually encouraging the biting. As International Cat Care points out, when people play a little too “rough and tumble” with young cats, “they often reinforce the highly excitable behaviour, and encourage kittens to grow up biting and scratching in the name of play with an intensity that can cause injury.” But keep in mind, roughhousing isn’t a good idea with cats of any age.

How to Prevent Cat Nips

The best way to stop aggressive biting is to shut it down before it becomes a habit. It’s not always easy, but your skin will thank you later.

For starters, understanding your cat’s body language can go a long way toward curbing play biting. It’s easy to get distracted while playing together, but you’ll want to pay careful attention to your cat’s stance, ear and tail positions, and eyes.

Remember that the reason cats play bite is that they are acting like you’re prey. And why do cats nip? They’re giving you a warning. If their eyes are dilated, back away slowly. And if they’re crouched and shaking their rear end, you’re about to be ambushed!

You can still goof around and be very active with your cat pal, but there are ways to do so without ending up on the receiving end of their fangs. For example, don’t use your hand or arm as a toy; instead, employ a real toy, such as a catnip mouse or bird on a wand, as the go-between. If you still find yourself under attack, redirect your cat’s attention by tossing a beloved toy in the opposite direction so they’ll dart after it.

If your cat does bite you while playing, don’t react in a way that’ll break the bond of trust between you two. “Never physically punish or even touch a cat during these times,” emphasizes the Cornell Feline Health Center, “as this may cause a cat to become fearful of people or may be interpreted as play, which may inadvertently reward the aggressive behaviour.” So if redirecting doesn’t work, simply walk away and ignore your kitty — they’ll eventually get the hint that this isn’t appropriate behaviour.

Cat

Shifting From Cat Bites to Affectionate Acts

You may be taken aback by unexpected behaviour like play biting, but don’t consider it a sign that your kitty doesn’t love you. Cats have unique ways of showing affection, after all, from head-butting to, yes, “love nips.” When your furry friend gently nibbles on your finger, that’s just fine. When they start all-out chomping on you during playtime, it’s probably time to curb this behaviour.

Instead of allowing nipping at all, encourage more gentle sentiments like kneading and snuggling. If you show a lack of interest in playing rough, your cat might lose interest in it, too.

It’s not always easy to change your cat’s behaviour, but redirecting and preventing your furry friend’s biting urge will help take the sting out of playtime.

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Help for troubled tummies!

Cat

Help for troubled tummies

Cat Constipation: Signs and Causes

Like people, cats can get constipated from time to time, and it’s not pleasant for us or them. It can be tricky to spot if your cat has a tummy upset or intestinal problem, especially if they go outside to go to the toilet, but there are usually some telltale signs you can look out for.

What is constipation?

Constipation is basically the opposite of diarrhoea. The poo gets dried out, hard and difficult to pass. This can be very uncomfortable and, if it goes on for some days, it can make cats feel really unwell and miserable.

Common causes of constipation in cats

Cats are usually pretty low-maintenance pets, but there are several things that can cause constipation. Let’s look at what those things might be and how to spot when it’s an issue.

Dehydration. Cats have evolved from ancestors that live in hot, desert-type places, so they’re very good at conserving the water in their bodies. This means they tend not to drink very much, which can lead to dehydration and dryer stools.

This is even more likely to happen in situations like a multi-cat house, where one cat might not have equal access to the food and water due to a resident bully. To make sure your cat stays hydrated, place several water bowls around the house so that they have water freely available wherever they are. At a minimum, ensure that there is one more water bowl than the number of cats in the home. 

Lots of cats are fed dry food for convenience these days, which can reduce their normal water intake. Feeding wet food, such as pouches and tins, is a great way to ensure your cat gets plenty of fluids. 

Swallowing hair. Cats love to groom and spend about 30-40% of their waking time tending to this important job. While some cats that ingest a lot of hair might vomit up a furball or two, some hair may go all the way through and clog up the other end.

Injuries and pain. Injuries such as pelvic fractures may physically narrow the passage where the large bowel sits, making it difficult for the cat to pass stools. Also, as cats get older and their joints get stiffer, they may find that squatting is painful. They might avoid going to the toilet as often, allowing the poo to dry out too much.

Tumours. Some tumours in the bowel area can block stools from passing through, either by pressing up against the bowel from the outside, or taking up space inside.

Nerve problems. The contents of the intestines are moved from one end to the other by waves of muscular contractions called peristalsis. It happens automatically, without us ever having to think about it. Some cats get nerve problems that might hinder this. Some breeds of cat, such as the Siamese, are more prone to this. It can cause something called megacolon, where the colon becomes very slack and dilated.

Other diseases. Some other diseases, such as kidney disease, can cause dehydration, which can then lead to constipation. 

Obesity and lack of exercise. Obesity and lack of exercise can cause constipation because exercise stimulates the bowel to move. 

How do you know when your cat is constipated?

It might not alway be easy to tell if your cat’s digestive system isn’t working the way it should. Vomiting and diarrhoea are obvious, but constipation can be much harder to spot.

Things to look out for:

  1. If your cat uses a litter tray, watch for changes in frequency and consistency. If you notice you suddenly don’t have to empty the tray as much, or if the stools seem different in size or appearance (hard or crumbly), it could be a sign that things are backing up.

  2. Watch for straining or vocalisation. If your cat seems to be crying out or spending ages in the tray without success, then you should see your vet as soon as possible. This could be a sign of constipation that needs addressing, but it can also be a sign of cystitis or a blocked bladder, which are medical emergencies.

  3. Watch for your cat pooing in the wrong place. If your cat is in pain or finding the litter tray difficult, or is reluctant to go outside to poop, they may be constipated.

  4. General malaise. Constipation makes cats feel pretty miserable, just like us. Sometimes, the only sign of your cat being constipated is that they seem off-colour. They may seem lethargic and uninterested in play or company.

Hopefully, your cat will sail through life with happy bowels, but if you’re ever concerned there might be a problem, always talk to your vet. They would much rather be on the safe side and catch a problem before it gets too bad. It might be that a simple change of food is needed to give your cat more fibre or more moisture, but if there is an underlying disease, the sooner you find out, the better.

Reviewed by Dr. Hein Meyer, DVM, PhD, Dipl-ECVIM-CA

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition