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Deadly canine disease spreading through Cape’s streets

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Deadly canine disease spreading through Cape's streets

Deadly canine disease spreading through Cape’s streets

Cape Town has been identified as a hot spot for the deadly canine distemper virus, which was first picked up in Knysna and led to 271 dogs being euthanised.

The outbreak happened in one street in Hornlee with 10 cases of infection reported earlier this year. It quickly spread in the months from March to August.

The Animal Welfare Society of South Africa (AWS) in Philippi, which encompasses the entire Cape Metro with a focus on the Cape Flats, said it has noticed a “worrying” spike in the number of cases reported.

“We are seeing between 10 and 20 cases per week which is significant.

“The apparent spike in the number of cases may be due to owner ignorance regarding the need to follow a proper vaccination regime.

“Given the number of cases seen the entire Cape Metro can be considered a hot spot,” said AWS spokesperson Allan Perrins.

Perrins said AWS has seen cases where the prognosis is regrettably hopeless and was left with no choice but to euthanise the dog to end its suffering and to prevent new infections.

“In a few instances, we have been able to offer supportive care. Being highly contagious, such cases are managed on an outpatient basis and the owner educated regarding the risk and spread of the virus.

“In domestic dogs, while the acute generalised form of distemper has a high mortality rate, disease duration and severity depends largely on the dog’s age and immune status and virulence of the infecting strain of the virus.”

Perrins said it has placed strict, non-negotiable bio-security protocols to prevent the spread of disease using basic foot-baths to costly sprays.

“Animals in our care, for example, hospital patients, impounded or stray animals and animals up for adoption, are safely isolated and carefully monitored to ensure their health and welfare.

“Their needs are not seen to by the hospital team who work in a high-risk area.

“Our kennels are very responsibly managed, disinfected and fumigated regularly to prevent the spread of disease and as a rule we do not wittingly admit infected animals, so there has not been a need to place our kennels under quarantine.”

Dogs that are not vaccinated and come into any kind of contact with an infected animal carry a particularly high risk of contracting this deadly disease.

Perrins urged pet owners to vaccinate and, in deserving cases where an owner really cannot afford the vaccine, it may vaccinate for free.

Source: IOL

Canine Body Language

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Canine Body Language

Dogs are very expressive animals. They communicate when they’re feeling happy, sad, nervous, fearful and angry, and they use their faces and bodies to convey much of this information.

This article is from the ASPCA website. aspcabehavior.org

Dog body language is an elaborate and sophisticated system of nonverbal communication that, fortunately, we can learn to recognize and interpret.

Once you learn how to “read” a dog’s postures and signals, you’ll better understand his feelings and motivations and be better able to predict what he’s likely to do. These skills will enable you to interact with dogs with greater enjoyment and safety.

It helps to first learn about the various components that make up dog body language. Dogs use facial expressions, ear set, tail carriage and overall demeanor to signal their intentions and feelings to others.

Breaking their body language down into components is helpful at first for building your observation and interpretation skills. Your goal, however, is to be able to observe the entire dog and the situation or context he’s in, in order to accurately determine what he’s trying to say. It’s not possible to understand your dog’s feelings and intentions by looking at just one aspect of his body language.  

Dog Faces

Even though dogs’ faces and heads come in many shapes and sizes, your dog’s basic facial expressions can tell you a great deal about how he’s feeling.

The Eyes

Your dog can, within limits, vary the shape and size of his eyes or the direction and intensity of his gaze. When your dog is relaxed and happy, his eyes will be their normal shape. Some dogs have round eyes, while others are more almond-shaped. Eyes that appear larger than normal usually indicate that a dog is feeling threatened in some way. He may be stressed by something or he may be frightened. An aggressive dog is also likely to have eyes that look larger than normal.

If your dog’s eyes seem smaller than they usually are, this can also mean he’s feeling frightened or stressed. Dogs who are in pain or not feeling well often look as though they’re squinting their eyes. Dogs who submissively grin may also squint their eyes.

The direction of your dog’s gaze can also be telling. Dogs rarely look directly into each other’s eyes because this is considered threatening behavior. Yet most dogs learn that it’s okay, even pleasant, to look directly at people. A dog who looks at you with a relaxed facial expression is being friendly and hoping that you’ll notice him. A dog who looks directly at you, actually staring at you with a tense facial expression, is another matter indeed.

A direct stare is much more likely to be a threat, and if you’re in close proximity to such a dog, it’s wise to slowly look away. Looking away is what dogs do when they don’t want to appear threatening. A dog who averts his gaze when you look at him is signalling that he’s submissive. It can also indicate that he’s worried about interacting with you. Maybe he’s been scared of people in the past, and so he isn’t very confident about dealing with people now.

If your dog doesn’t look directly at you, but instead looks out of the corners of his eyes so that you see a good deal of the whites of his eyes (the sclera), he might be leading up to an aggressive outburst. Known as “whale eye” this is often seen when a dog is guarding a chew bone, toy or favorite spot. It’s different than the eye of a dog who, for instance, is resting with his head and opens his eyes to give you a sideways glance. In this case, he won’t appear rigid or tense, and you won’t see much of the whites of his eyes.

The Mouth

Dogs do a lot more with their mouths than just eat and drink. Even though they can’t use their mouths to talk, the way they position their lips, jaws and teeth speaks volumes. When your dog is relaxed and happy, he’s likely to have his mouth closed or slightly opened. If his mouth is open, he may be panting—this is how dogs cool their bodies. You might see his teeth because his mouth is slightly opened.

A dog who’s frightened or feeling submissive probably has his mouth closed. His lips might be pulled back slightly at the corners. He might flick his tongue in and out, or he might lick if he’s interacting with a person or another animal. When he’s feeling uptight, he might yawn in an exaggerated fashion.

Some dogs show a “submissive grin” when they’re feeling extremely submissive. They pull their lips up vertically and display their front teeth (canines and incisors). This signal is almost always accompanied by an overall submissive body posture, such as a lowered head, yelping or whining, and squinty eyes. Only some dogs “grin” this way. People sometimes mistakenly think a dog is being aggressive when, in fact, he’s grinning submissively and trying to communicate the exact opposite of aggression.

A dog who’s signalling his intention to act aggressively will often retract his lips to expose his teeth. He may pull his lips up vertically to display his front teeth while also wrinkling the top of his muzzle. This is typical of a dog who’s warning you not to come any closer.

A dog may draw his lips back horizontally so that his lips are really tight at the commissure (the corners of the mouth). With this expression, you’re more likely to see both his front and back teeth (premolars and molars). This posture is often indicative of a dog who’s feeling afraid. However, once a dog is ready to bite, he usually pulls his lips up AND back so that his mouth is open and his teeth are exposed.

Dogs can display an “aggressive pucker.” They move their lips forward over their teeth and exhale air so that their lips look puffy and large. You can sometimes even hear them breathing heavily. This display is often accompanied by a wrinkled forehead. A dog who looks like this is saying, “Don’t come any closer.”

Dog Ears

Dogs have a wide variety of ear types. The size and shape of your dog’s ears will dictate how well he can use them to communicate. Some are dropped (like a beagle’s), some are pricked (like a German shepherd’s) or semi-pricked (like a Shetland sheepdog’s), and some hang long (like a Bassett hound’s). Some dogs’ ears are cropped so that some or all of the earflap is removed (like a Doberman pinscher’s or Great Dane’s).

When your dog is relaxed and comfortable, he’ll hold his ears naturally. When he’s alert, he’ll raise them higher on his head and he’ll direct them toward whatever’s holding his interest. Your dog will also raise his ears up and forward when he’s feeling aggressive. If your dog has his ears pulled back slightly, he’s signalling his intention to be friendly. If his ears are completely flattened or stuck out to the sides of his head, he’s signalling that he’s frightened or feeling submissive.

Dog Tails

People often assume that a dog with a wagging tail is a friendly dog, but this is far from the truth. Dogs wag their tails for numerous reasons, including when they’re feeling aggressive. And a dog who isn’t wagging his tail can still be friendly.

A dog’s ability to use his tail to express how he feels is limited by the type of tail he has. Most dogs have a “natural” tail that hangs down to somewhere near the hock (the joint between the lower thigh and the pastern on the rear leg). Others, such as the pug, have tails that curl up and over their backs.

A few breeds, like the greyhound and whippet, have a tail that naturally tucks slightly between their rear legs. And some breeds have naturally short bobtails or have tails that were surgically docked. (For example, Australian shepherd puppies may be born with natural bobtails, and the Doberman pinscher is a breed that often has the tail surgically docked.)

When your dog is relaxed, he’ll hold his tail in its natural position. If he’s feeling happy, he may wag it gently from side to side. If he’s really happy, like when he greets you after being apart from you, his tail will wag more forcefully from side to side or might even move in a circular pattern. If your dog feels nervous or submissive, he’ll hold his tail lower and might even tuck it between his rear legs. He may still wag it from side to side, often at a more rapid pace than if he’s relaxed. If he’s really scared or feeling extremely submissive, he’ll hold his tail tucked up tight against his belly.

When your dog is alert or aroused about something, he’ll probably hold his tail higher than normal. He’ll hold it stiff, without any movement. If he’s standing his ground or threatening someone (a person or another animal), he may “flag” his tail, which means he holds it stiff and high and moves it rigidly back and forth. It might look like he’s wagging his tail, but everything else about his body tells you that he’s not feeling friendly at the moment.

Dog Hair

Although dogs don’t communicate much with it, you can discern some things from a dog’s hair. First, a scared or stressed dog is likely to shed more than normal. It’s as though the scared dog is blowing his coat, and it suddenly comes out in buckets! You may have seen this if your dog gets nervous during visits to your veterinarian. After the examination, you, the vet and the table are covered with your dog’s hair.

Dogs may also stick up their hair to communicate how they are, which is called “piloerection,” or more colloquially, “raising the hackles.” Although dogs’ hair is most often raised over the withers (the area where the tops of a dog’s shoulder blades meet), dogs can raise their hair all along their spine. Dogs raise their hair when they’re aroused about something. It’s comparable to a person having goose bumps. Raised hackles can mean that a dog is afraid, angry, insecure, unsure, nervous or wildly excited about something.

Overall Body Posture

Dogs also use their bodies to communicate their intentions. In general, dogs either try to look normal, smaller or larger. If your dog’s feeling happy and contented, he’ll look normal—relaxed muscles and weight evenly balanced on all four feet. Similarly, when he’s playful, he’ll look normal.

He may be bouncing around or running wildly with exaggerated movements, but his facial expression and his muscles will be relaxed and nothing about his body will look unnatural.

This is quite different from the overall appearance of a scared dog. When your dog is scared, he’ll be hunched as though trying to look small. He might lower his body or even cower on the ground.

His head will be held low as well. If he’s frightened by something or someone, he’ll recoil away from it. For instance, if your dog is scared on an examination table, he’ll pull away from the veterinarian and lean into you. If your dog is uncertain but curious about something, he might approach it tentatively, with his weight centered over his rear legs so that he can retreat quickly if he needs to.

A submissive dog looks very similar to a frightened dog because he makes himself look small to convey that he’s not a threat. If your dog is submissive, he’ll lower his body or even cower on the ground. His head might be raised, though, if he’s greeting a person or another animal.

An assertive (dominant), alert or aroused dog tries to make himself look large. His muscles will be tense. He’ll stand erect, sometimes even on his tiptoes, with his neck and head raised above his shoulders. His weight will either be centered over all four feet or he’ll be leaning slightly forward on his front legs.

An angry, aggressive dog also makes himself appear larger than life to be as intimidating as possible. If your dog is aggressive, he’ll look very similar to an assertive, alert or aroused dog, but his posture will be accompanied by aggressive threats. Typically, his weight will be centered over his front legs so that he can lunge or charge forward rapidly.

Putting It All Together—The Whole Dog

The messages dogs communicate with their body language can be subtle, but with careful attention, most people can learn to recognize and interpret the most important meanings. It’s crucial to know when your dog’s happy, when he’s playful, when he’s worried or scared, when he’s feeling uncertain or insecure about something or someone, and when he’s feeling upset and potentially angry. As long as you can recognize these messages, you can interact with him confidently and safely, and you can protect him when he needs protection.

Happy, Contented

When your dog is happy, he has relaxed body language. His muscles are relaxed, his tail and ears are held in their natural positions, and he looks neither large nor small for his physique. He might wag his tail from side to side or in a circular motion. His facial expression is neutral or he appears happy—the muscles in his face are relaxed, his mouth is closed or slightly opened, and he might be panting with a regular tempo. The corners of his mouth (called the commissure) might be turned upwards slightly, as though he’s smiling.

Alert

When your dog is alert, he looks intense and focused. He stands upright with his weight centered on all fours, his ears are up and forward, and his head and neck are erect. He holds his tail either in its natural position or vertically, possibly even over his back. His tail is rigid and immobile. His gaze is directed toward whatever he‘s detected. His mouth is typically closed. He might growl or bark. The hair on his shoulders or back may or may not be raised.

Excited

When your dog is excited, he looks as intense as he does when he’s alert, but he might also adopt a playful demeanor. His body is ready for action. He looks natural in size, but his weight might be centered over his rear legs as he prepares to move.

His ears are up and his tail is held high, and it may or may not wag. He looks at the individual or object that’s the source of his excitement. Excited dogs often hold their mouths open, and they might bark.

Aroused

When your dog is aroused, you might have a hard time distinguishing it from when he’s alert or excited. The only time it’s useful to know the difference is when the arousal pushes him closer to feeling frightened or aggressive. An aroused dog almost always has his hackles up.

However, just about everything else about his body language depends on whether he’s feeling scared, uncertain or angry. His body may look normal-sized or larger, his ears might be flattened to the side or held forward, and his tail might be held low, in a normal position or high.

He may or may not be looking directly at an individual or object. Sometimes there’s nothing in the environment that’s obvious to us, but a dog can be aroused by a sound that we can’t hear or an odor that we can’t smell.

Playful

It’s fairly easy to detect when your dog’s feeling playful. His body movements are jerky and bouncy. He might bounce around in exaggerated twists, turns and leaps. He might dodge around you, paw at you and then take off running to invite a chase. Or he might just jump on you and start mouthing.

Dogs enjoy a variety of play styles, including chase games (in which the dog is either the chaser or the chasee), rough-and-tumble (wrestling or tackle) games, and games of “keep-away” with an object, like a toy or stick. Almost all play is interspersed with the characteristic “play bow” that’s common across all dogs.

When your dog play bows, he bounces into position with his forelegs on the ground and his hind legs extended so that his rear sticks up. This signal is extremely important because so much of dog play consists of aggressive behaviors and dominant postures.

The play bow tells a dog’s playmate, “Anything that comes after this is play, so please don’t take it seriously.” Some dogs also show a “play face,” a happy facial expression characterized by a partially open mouth that almost looks as though the dog is smiling. A playful dog might also growl or make high-pitched barks.

Fearful, Scared

When your dog is scared, he does his best to look small. Often, his body looks hunched, with his tail held low or tucked between his rear legs and his ears flattened back on his skull. He might cower close to the ground. If escape is possible, he might lean so that his center of gravity is over his rear legs to permit a hasty retreat, or lean to the side so that he can recoil.

He might look directly at the source of his fear or he might look away. The muscles of his body and face are tense and rigid. He might yawn in an exaggerated way.

Dominant

During interaction with a person or another dog, dogs sometimes convey a confident, assertive attitude that’s often called “dominant.” If your dog is feeling dominant, he stands tall, sometimes on his tiptoes, and tries to look large.

He arches his neck. He appears tense, like a coiled spring. His weight is squarely on all four feet or he’s leaning forward slightly. His ears are up and oriented forward. His tail is high and rigid, sometimes flagging or quivering at the end. His hair may or may not be standing up on his shoulders or along his back.

He usually makes direct eye contact with the other individual. He might growl, but his mouth will typically be closed.

Submissive

If your dog is feeling submissive while he interacts with a person or another dog, he tries to convey the message that he’s the underling, that he’s not a threat and that aggression is unnecessary. During active submission, he makes his body look small by hunching over and getting low to the ground. He holds his tail low or tucked, sometimes rapidly wagging it back and forth. He flattens his ears or holds them off to the sides of his head.

He keeps his neck low to the ground, but he turns his muzzle up toward the other individual. He might nuzzle, lick or flick his tongue. He averts his gaze so as not to look directly at the other individual. Some dogs, particularly puppies, urinate.

Your dog might switch from active submission to a more passive position, in which he lies down and rolls over on his back to display his inguinal area (his genitalia). During passive submission, your dog might lie still, or he might paw at the other individual. He looks away. He might whine. Some dogs, particularly puppies, urinate in this position.

Fearfully Aggressive

If your dog is fearfully aggressive he won’t look any different than when he’s fearful, except that he might show his teeth and growl. Some fearful dogs never escalate to aggression, but others will if they feel there’s no escape.

A fearful dog isn’t likely to bite a person or other animal unless all avenues for escape are blocked and he feels trapped. When this happens, he continues to cower but, at the same time, shows his teeth and might growl or snarl. If he snaps or bites, it’s usually lightening quick, and then he retreats as far away from the threat as possible. Some dogs wait until the person or animal who frightens them begins to retreat, and then they dart out to nip them from behind.

Offensively Aggressive

If your dog feels anger and confidence at the same time, you might see offensively aggressive body language. He’s on the attack, and he may or may not stop if the person or animal he’s focused on stays away or retreats.

He does his best to look large and intimidating by holding his head high, his ears up and forward, and his tail raised and rigid. He might flag his tail. His hackles might be up. He positions himself over his forelegs so that he’s ready to lunge or charge forward.

He stares directly at the person or animal. He shows his teeth by wrinkling his muzzle and retracting his lips vertically to display his front teeth. He growls, snarls or barks in a low, threatening tone.

Defensively Aggressive

Most dogs give plenty of warning before reacting aggressively, but you need to know what to look for to recognize the signs. If your dog is feeling defensively aggressive, he’d rather not get into an altercation if he doesn’t have to.

He’d rather the person or animal he’s afraid of just back off and leave him alone. But at the same time, he’s ready to stand up for himself. Because he’s feeling both fear and anger, he often adopts a combination of fearful and offensive postures. Typically, he looks large, his ears are up and forward, and his tail is held high and rigid.

He centers his weight squarely on all fours, over his forelegs or over his rear legs, depending on the situation. Usually it depends on how close he is to the threat and whether his intention is to stand his ground, charge forward or retreat.

Typically, he draws his lips back to display his teeth, and he may or may not wrinkle his muzzle. Usually he growls, snarls or barks, although his bark might be high-pitched. Often, his hackles are up. People sometimes refer to a defensively aggressive dog as adopting “a good offense as the best defense.”

Dogs like this are sometimes bluffing in that they really would not fight if push came to shove—they would likely retreat. But other dogs will make the first strike, depending on the balance of confidence and fear they’re feeling.

Source: www.ahna.net

Parvovirus is showing up more often in adults

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Parvovirus

Parvovirus is showing up more often in adults

Parvovirus is showing up more often in adult dogs judging by the number of adult cases being admitted to veterinary clinics in recent months. This a highly contagious and potentially fatal disease usually affects puppies. Though there are no official stats to back this up, clinical staff report higher adult numbers than usual.

Parvovirus is prevented by vaccination.

Puppies are particularly vulnerable to the virus though if he or she gets premium and urgent veterinary care immediately after diagnosis the survival rate can be 70 to 90%. The pup will need intensive care, total isolation and expensive medication. Even then the outcome is not guaranteed. Dogs can still shed the virus for up to 10 days post clinical recovery.

Parvovirus is a two-fold problem

Parvovirus is a viral disease of dogs causing two different sets of clinical problems:   ‘intestinal’  which is manifested by diarrhoea, often bloody vomiting, loss of appetite, depression, fever, and sometimes death; and ‘cardiac’ which occurs in very young pups and is manifested by an acute inflammation of the heart muscle. The dog will often have a peculiar smell when infected with parvo.

Parvovirus is a dog disease

Any age, breed or sex of dog can be affected by parvo though infection does not automatically mean illness. Age, environment, stress, parasites and general health status of each infected dog could affect the severity of illness, which may range from very mild to unapparent to very severe, often resulting in death.The disease is usually more severe in young dogs (less than 6 months of age) or old dogs. Humans can’t get it.

How will I know if my dog has it?

Symptoms include:

  • Bloody diarrhoea (often severe)
  • Fever
  • Lethargy (lack of energy)
  • Loss of appetite
  • Malaise (discomfort associated with illness)
  • Rapid weight loss.
  • Vomiting

Protecting your dog against parvo

Vaccination is the best protection and puppies must receive their full course of vaccinations to be absolutely sure they are protected. Most vets recommend starting puppy vaccinations at six to eight weeks (depending on the mother’s vaccination status) but chat with your vet first. Novibac DP Plus allows vaccinations from 4 weeks though that only covers parvo and distemper virus and not the other core viruses. Otherwise a puppy’s first vaccination involves what is called a 5-in-1, a vaccination that covers five core diseases, including parvo.  A second round of vaccinations is required at 10-12 weeks, a third at 12-16 weeks and then once a year thereafter.

Absolute musts

  • Do not expose your new puppy to any other dogs, or environments where other dogs have been  until he or she has been vaccinated.
  • Do not skip a vaccination. Ever.
  • If you’re planning on checking your dog into a boarding kennel during the holidays, ensure that it is a reputable establishment that demands vaccination certificates from all boarders.
  • If you regularly walk your dog in parks, or take him to puppy training or socialisation classes, please make absolutely sure his parvo vaccination is up-to-date. Parvovirus is highly contagious and spreads very quickly where large numbers of dogs are present.
  • Parvo is found in heavy concentration in aninfected dog’s faeces. The virus particles can be easily spread on shoes, clothing and other inanimate objects. Fleas, as well as people, can therefore act as indirect sources of infection.  If your dog has had parvo you will need to disinfect everything he has come into contact with, including bedding, bowls, toys and even your yard. The virus can survive indoors for at least a month and outdoors for up to a year so disinfection is vital. It is best not to introduce a new dog to the premises for at least six months after disinfection.

Source: EberVet

Understanding Canine Babesia: Causes, Symptoms, and Treatment

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Canine

Understanding Canine Babesia: Causes, Symptoms, and Treatment

As dog owners, our furry friends’ health is always a top concern. One important condition to be aware of is canine babesia. This post aims to shed light on what babesia is, its causes, symptoms to watch out for, and available treatment options.

What is Canine Babesia?

Canine babesia, also known as babesiosis, is a tick-borne disease caused by various species of the Babesia parasite. These parasites invade and multiply within a dog’s red blood cells, leading to anaemia and other health complications.

Causes of Canine Babesia:

The primary mode of transmission is through the bite of infected ticks. These ticks are commonly found in grassy or wooded areas, allowing them to easily latch onto dogs during outdoor activities.

Symptoms of Canine Babesia:

Symptoms of babesia can vary depending on the species of the parasite and the severity of the infection. Some common symptoms include:

  1. Lethargy and weakness
  2. Loss of appetite
  3. Weight loss
  4. Pale gums and mucous membranes
  5. Yellowing of the eyes and gums (jaundice)
  6. Fever
  7. Enlarged lymph nodes
  8. Dark urine
  9. Irregular breathing

It is important to note that some dogs may show no visible symptoms while still carrying the parasite. Regular check-ups and preventive measures are crucial to ensure early detection and treatment.

Canine

Treatment for Canine Babesia:

When it comes to treating babesia, a multi-faceted approach is often necessary. The specific treatment plan may vary depending on the severity of the infection and the dog’s overall health. Tests (Haematocrit and an in-saline agglutination test) are done to determine whether a dog needs hospitalisation. Dogs are then treated with the appropriate drugs

Often, dogs with Babesia require supportive care to manage the associated symptoms. This can include fluid therapy to treat dehydration and anaemia, as well as medications to alleviate fever and pain.

Preventing future tick infestations is essential in managing and preventing babesia. Regular use of tick preventatives such as topical treatments or oral medications can significantly reduce the risk of tick bites. Products like Bravecto, Nexguard or Simparica can be used. They are also available at our vet shop.

In severe cases of babesia, where the dog’s red blood cell count is dangerously low, a blood transfusion may be necessary to stabilize their condition.

Prevention is Key:

Preventing babesia is easier than treating it. Here are some preventive measures you can take:

  1. Regular Tick Checks: Inspect your dog thoroughly after outdoor activities, paying close attention to hidden areas like ears, between toes, and under the tail.
  2. Tick Control Products: Use vet-approved tick prevention products, such as collars, sprays, or spot-on treatments, to keep ticks at bay.
  3. Maintain a Clean Environment: Keep your dog’s living area clean.
Canine babesia, caused by tick-borne parasites, can pose a serious threat to our beloved pets. The cost of hospitalisation and treatment of dogs with Babesia is expensive. Your dog’s life is also at risk as they can become very ill and even die from physiological complications when parasite burdens are high. It is far more effective to keep up to date with tick and flea control and follow preventative measures to have a happy healthy dog

Source: Cape of Good Hope SPCA

Canine Pancreatitis – Is your dog at risk?

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Pancreatitis

Canine Pancreatitis – Is your dog at risk?

It is that time of year – good food and enough sweet and salty snacks to last you for weeks after Christmas has passed. Let’s be honest, during this time of year, we all want to spoil our dogs. They are family after all, but it is important to be careful what we give our four-legged kids.

There are many causes of canine pancreatitis (inflammation of the pancreas), but one of the most common is the ingestion of a large quantity of high fat food. Doing so can result in a case of acute pancreatitis. In humans, the disease is reportedly fatal in 5% to 15% of cases. In dogs, it’s even more dangerous — from 27% to 58% of patients with the disease don’t survive it.

An inflamed pancreas can’t efficiently perform its critical functions, which include secreting insulin to balance blood sugar levels, and producing digestive enzymes such as amylase, lipase, and protease, which are necessary for nutrient digestion and absorption.

Severe damage to the pancreas can trigger a massive inflammatory reaction known as systemic inflammatory response syndrome (SIRS), characterized by increased capillary permeability, fever, rapid heart rate, a drop in blood pressure, and ultimately, multiple organ failure. In addition, as the result of a process called autodigestion, dogs can develop severe necrotizing pancreatitis in which entire portions of the organ are completely destroyed.

Risk factors of Pancreatitis include obesity, diabetes, hypothyroidism, Cushing’s disease, and pre-existing gastrointestinal (GI) disease. In fact, estimates are that about 25% of dogs with acute diabetes also have acute pancreatitis. The condition is also more common in dogs who have had recent surgery, especially procedures involving the abdominal organs. In addition, certain drugs are suspected of triggering acute pancreatitis, including anti-seizure medications such as potassium bromide or phenobarbital, prednisone and other catabolic steroids, and the diuretic Lasix. Dietary indiscretions are also very commonly the culprit in attacks of pancreatitis and typically involve high-fat, cooked foods such as fatty meats, any fried foods, bacon grease, etc. Ultra processed pet food also plays a role in pancreatitis in pets.

What are the systems that you should look out for? A 1999 study showed that in dogs with acute pancreatitis that ultimately proved fatal, the following symptoms were reported:

  • Anorexia (91%)
  • Abdominal pain (58%)
  • Vomiting (90%)
  • Dehydration (46%)
  • Weakness (79%)
  • Diarrhea (33%)

When the disease is very severe, inflammation can become systemic, which can cause shock or cardiovascular (circulatory) collapse.

Pancreatitis

The symptoms veterinarians most commonly see when examining dogs with acute pancreatitis are dehydration, excessive drooling and lip-licking (signs of nausea), and abdominal pain. Since these symptoms are present in a wide variety of disorders, a thorough diagnostic workup should be performed, including bloodwork and x-rays or scans.

Can it be treated?
There is no procedure or medication that cures pancreatitis, so treatment is supportive and focused on reducing the dog’s symptoms. Baseline supportive therapy includes:

  • Intravenous (IV) fluids to address dehydration (IV vitamin C can be very helpful in cases of SIRS and necrotizing pancreatitis), hypovolemia (decreased blood volume), and electrolyte imbalances
  • The recently approved IV medication Panoquell, which reduces pancreatic inflammation
  • Pain management
  • Anti-emetics to alleviate nausea and vomiting
  • Enteral nutrition (tube feeding)

In most cases of pancreatitis, antibiotics are unnecessary and unhelpful. In addition, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) and steroid medications like prednisone should be avoided. Pain management is crucial for these patients.

Dogs who develop an acute bout of pancreatitis can have different outcomes. Some recover fully with no further issues. Others recover but go on to develop chronic pancreatitis. And some dogs have recurrences of acute pancreatitis. In dogs with co-existing conditions such as diabetes, successful treatment of pancreatitis depends on successful treatment or management of those other disorders.

One of the most important steps you can take to lower your dog’s risk of a repeat episode of pancreatitis is to provide a rich source of digestive enzymes, either through feeding pancreatic tissue (which is unappealing to most pet parents and can be difficult to source) or a supplement containing pancrealipase or pancreatin.

This will help reduce the stress your pet’s pancreas is under to produce enough enzymes to process food.

So if you have a dog who’s currently dealing with pancreatitis, has had it in the past, or if you want to take preventive measures to reduce the likelihood he’ll develop the condition, adding broad spectrum digestive enzymes to his minimally-processed food and avoiding heat-processed fats at mealtimes is a great way to help reduce pancreatic stress and protect and preserve pancreas function as pets age.

Source: English & French Bulldog Rescue NPO 184-589

Hot Spots – How to Care for Your Dog’s Painful Inflamed Skin Sores…

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hot

Hot Spots – How to Care for Your Dog’s Painful Inflamed Skin Sores…

What are Hot Spots?

Canine acute moist dermatitis is a form of canine pyoderma also known as “hot spots.” Hot spots are red, moist, irritated patches of skin often caused by an initial irritation and then exacerbated by bacterial infection. The irritated patch can double in size within hours and can become very painful. Common sites of lesions are the head, neck, hips and limbs. Matting of fur, hair loss, scabbing and oozing are often seen. Hot spots seem to be common in long-haired dog breeds and are more prevalent during summer months in times of high temperature and humidity. Hot spots are the result of a bacterial infection. Your dog’s skin becomes irritated and the dog starts itching, licking, or both, eventually causing a red, ugly, oozing sore. Technically hot spots are referred to as acute moist dermatitis or superficial canine pyoderma, usually localized to a specific area. The sore can only be treated by focusing on the underlying infection.

Symptoms of Hot Spots in Dogs

Symptoms of a hot spot may include one or more of the following:

  • Itchy, painful patch of skin
  • Continual chewing or licking at site
  • Abnormal aggression (associated with painfulness of site)
  • Possible depression (associated with painfulness of site)
  • Inflammation, redness, and swelling in a localized patch of skin
  • Crusted scabs or oozing sores
  • Dry scaly skin Hair loss
  • Moist, matted fur
  • Foul odor from lesion

Causes of Hot Spots in Dogs

Possible causes of initial irritation can be any one of the following:

  • Flea allergies
  • Cuts or abrasions
  • Ear infection/anal gland infection
  • Foreign objects (splinters/thorns)
  • Food allergies
  • Matted fur
  • Insect bites
  • Chewing or licking due to stress or boredom​

Process

 
  • Hot spots on dogs are the result of an imbalance in the normal bacteria (Staphylococcus intermedius) on the skin.
  • The bacterial imbalance is most often brought about by some initial irritation that the pet bites or scratches at repeatedly.
  • Biting and chewing can introduce bacteria from the mouth and nose to disrupted hair follicles at the site of irritation.
  • Moisture and heat from matted hair, summer warmth and humidity or open scrapes or cuts can further exacerbate bacterial growth
  • Bacterial growth cause the body immune response to react, resulting in more itching, heat, redness, inflammation and pain.
Diagnosis of Hot Spots in Dogs

If you notice your pet is showing symptoms of a hot spot, you may try an over the counter medication to clean and treat at home. Since hot spots are painful and can worsen within a matter of hours, it is advisable to schedule a visit to a clinic to receive proper treatment.

The veterinarian will take a thorough history and conduct a physical exam to determine the initial irritant. It is important to let your veterinarian know when the onset of symptoms began and any unusual circumstances that may have led to the irritation so the doctor can identify possible allergens or stressors and address them in treatment.

The area will likely be shaved and cleaned to determine severity and size. Shaving and cleaning is also necessary to properly clean and air the lesion. In cases where other forms of pyoderma are suspected, the veterinarian may examine bacterial samples under the microscope or culture a sample for diagnosis.

Treatment of Hot Spots in Dogs

Cleaning

The lesion must be cleaned thoroughly. Matted fur should be shaved off and away from the affected area. Because this can be quite painful, it is a good idea to bring the pet to the veterinarian where nurses can clean and shave the area. Some level of sedation may be necessary. A topical antiseptic such as chlorhexidine can then be used to clean the lesion.

Treating Bacterial Infection

Topical and/or oral antibiotics will often be administered. Antibiotic treatment may last 4 weeks or longer.

Treating Initial Irritation

Some cases of hot spots are idiopathic (the cause is unidentifiable). More commonly, allergies to fleas, pollen or food are identified with a history and examination. Monthly flea treatments or hypoallergenic diets can address allergies. Regular grooming or keeping fur cut short can prevent matting, a common cause of skin irritation. Anxiety-induced chewing and licking can be lessened by introducing toys or chews and exercise and play.

Medications for Pain and Inflammation

Antihistamines may be prescribed to reduce itchiness and irritation. NSAIDS can be prescribed to reduce inflammation. A short acting corticosteroid may be administered one time to make the patient more comfortable and promote healing. Gentamicin/Betamethasone sprays are often prescribed to spray on the lesion daily.

Dietary supplements

Essential fatty acids may be suggested for pets prone to skin conditions.

 

Redirected Aggression

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Aggression

Redirected Aggression

Aggression, no matter what type, should always involve the owner calling in the services of a canine behaiourist. Please ensure that the behaviourist is fully qualified and has had extensive experience – ask to see their qualificiations and ask what methods they use to change behaviour. The reply to this should be Positive Reinforcement – if they mention anything along the lines of prong or shock collars, stopping the dominance, or alpha rolling or jabbing your dog – run a mile – unfortunately there are still people using methods such as this, and these should not be contemplated. 

Aggression should preferably never be tackled by owners themselves. Think about it, you would treat yourself if you had a headache, but if you had blinding pain, you would go to the doctor – get the help you and your dog needs, and sooner rather than later!

What is Redirected Aggression?

Putting it very simply – a  common example is when a dog is so over aroused and frustrated of being in a situation where he cannot access the trigger (perhaps another dog or person), that the dog redirects this over stimulation/frustration onto either a dog or person which is closeby. The dog is not doing this on purpose as many people think – it is no longer thinking, it is over aroused, and is lashing out at what is nearest him. This can happen with all breeds of dogs, however is more common in any breed that tend to  excite easily

This does not only occur with a dog that is showing aggression towards the trigger, it can also occur where a dog is extremely fearful, and the perceived threat comes a step too close to him, or in the case of a person, tries to actually touch the dog – the dog lashes out. 

​Another common example, is where a dog has been severely inured and is in pain. Even tho’ it may be the owner that goes to help, the pain levels may be so high, that the dog acts in a natural defensive manner, and just lashes out. 

Examples of Redirected Aggression

Here are some common examples of redirected aggression:-
​
Aggression at gates – this is one that many people will relate too! You have a situation where the dogs can see outside the gate, and a person with a dog walks by, even on the other side of the road. The dogs inside see this happening, and make a dash to the gate, already getting excited, and often barking. They can run back and forward and continaully becomming more and more aroused, especially if this is a situation that happens often – the anticipation of this can raise the arousal levels, and if the dog on the other side of the road, reacts back with lunging, barking, or any other type of aggressive behaviour, the arousal levels will also increase. 

When the arousal level becomes too high, one dog may suddenly lash out the the other dog, and this can be just a snap or lunge, or a bite – however, if the other dog retaliates, this can escalate into a full blown fight. Unfortunately, as we mentioned above, this type of behaviour tends to occur more and more if a solution is not found to prevent the dogs going to the gate, and the severity of the fights will escalate accordingly. 

It could also occur that the dog that did not instigate the aggression, can become very fearful in general, and the relationship between the dogs can completely change, with the initial aggressor becoming more of a ‘bully’ towards the other dog in general. 

This type of aggression is also common in the shelter environment (barrier aggression), especially when you have several dogs in a run. The dogs will become over excited when other dogs or people walk by, and the end result is often redirected aggression towards another dog/s in the run. 

In addition to gates, a similar situation can occur when you have more than one dog engaging in fence aggression with the dog next door – redirected aggression can be the outcome. 

Situations such as aggression at gates, exhibited by the dogs behind the gates, is one of the reasons why we suggest to our clients to never walk their dogs in the street where there are dogs behind gates – this is why:-

  • The gate can unexpectedly open (and it happens a lot more than you may think), and the dogs dash towards the dog being walked. This can end up in serious damage to the dog being walked, and also to the person walking the dog. 
  • In a situation such as above, the dog that was attacked, can either become fearful of other dogs, or reactive towards them, due to this experience. 
  • The dogs exhibiting the aggression inside the gate, can start to become aggressive to other dogs when out on walks, where they never were before.

Dog Fights and over arousal – ​it does not even have to be a dog fight, it could be dogs playing where the play has resulted in arousal levels becomming too high. The owner goes to stop the aggressor by catching hold of the collar, and the dog lashes out at the owner – again, not on purpose. 

It could even be that the dog is being taken to training or a park and the dog in the car becomes very excited. On opening the door, instead of the owner calming the dog inside the car down, they open the door, and the dog tries to jump out to get to the other dogs before the owner can stop the dog – the owner grabs the collar, and the dog lashes out at the owner. 

Redirected aggression at doors  – this tends to happen a lot with doorbells being rung, especially in complexes, where the security will ring the home owner to say a visitor is arriving. The dogs become more and more excited waiting for the door to open, and as the door opens, the one dog turns on the other dog. Here as well, there could be redirected aggression towards the owner, if they grab onto the collar or attempt to stop the dogs fighting. 

In dog parks and dog social situations – when this happens, what has normally occurred, is that two dogs were playing happily together, lets say a Lab and a Terrier, and a strange dog, which is a German Shelherd comes over, the playing stops, and the dogs start to check each other out. It could occur that one of the dogs has quickly decided that this new dog is not a threat (normally the Lab as they seem to believe on average that the whole world loves them!), and wants to keep on playing with the Terrier it was playing with before, so it goes into play mode again and tries to engage the Terrier in play. However, the Terrier has not yet decided that the German Shepherd offers no threat, and its tension levels are a bit high – as the Lab tries to engage its Terrier friend in play again, the Terrier turns  and lashes out at the Lab. 

Over arousal on walks  redirected aggression always results when the arousal levels have gone far too high, and this can even happen when an owner is taking its dog for a walk and it becomes over aroused and turns and nips the owner on the leg. This could occur as it walks past a gate with dogs acting aggressively inside, and we have seen this happen even before the owner and dog walked past a particular gate – the dog was anticipating the dogs being at the gate and had become totally over aroused. 

It can even be that it invovles the dogs prey drive – the dog sees a squirrel run up a tree, becomes totally over excited, and the more the owner holds onto the lead and tries to stop the dog, quieten  the more over aroused it become, and suddenly lashes out at the owner. 

Preventing/changing redirected aggression

Aggression, in any shape or form, should always be handled by a canine behaviourist with experience in aggression, as we mentioned above. There will be a lot more at play here than just the redirected aggression – there will be factors contributing to this behaviour, and this is where a qualified behaviourist can assist. 

They will send you a very comprehensive questionnaire, which gives them insight into your relationship with your dog, as well as the relationship with the other dog in the home, and factors that could be contributing to the behaviour and which need to be looked at. When you have the session with the behaviourist at your home, in addition to observing the dogs, they may ask you additional questions. This will give the behaviourist the information they need to put together the specific behaviour modifications that need to be implemented, including management of the situation.

Source: Friend of the dogs