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My Dog Attacks Other Dogs at Gates

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My Dog Attacks Other Dogs at Gates

One minute your sweet loving dog is lying relaxing in the sun outside, or playing happily with your other dog, and the next minute he is tearing down to your gate, looking like he is going to kill the dog walking by with his owner – how dare he come near my gate, just not acceptable, I will make sure it does not happen again – the behaviour says!

This behaviour does not only occur at gate – you may have a dog that is inside the house, and a security gate is preventing it going out, or it occurs when the dog is looking out the window – in all these situations, the dog tends to go bananas as another dog walks by. 

This is not an uncommon event with dogs, and in dog behaviour terms is known as either barrier aggression, fence aggression or barrier frustration. What is interesting with dogs that behave in this manner, is that often they are totally friendly and sociable with other dogs they meet – not all however!

Why Does This Behaviour Occur?

Very often a combination the factors below could be the reason. 

  • Frustration is a common reason – it could be that the normally friendly dog is totally frustrated not being able to go and say hello, however, the behaviour can easily and quickly escalate. 
  • Frustration and Boredom – the dog may not be receiving sufficient physical, mental or even social interaction. It has found a great way of entertaining itself, although we humans and the dog and owner on the other side of the gate may not find it entertaining!
  • Fear – yes fear can be a factor! Approximately 98% of aggressive behaviour is due to fear, just the behaviour exhibited has gradually increased from perhaps a growl until it looks like a full blown attack taking place. Think about this from a dogs point of view – if I appear big enough, nasty enough, the threat will leave!
  • Owner inadvertently reinforcing the behaviour by shouting, screaming at the dog – remember that to a dog, attention is attention, whether negative or positive!
  • Previous experiences. The dog may have been attacked himself when he was out with his own owner, and by exhibiting the aggressive behaviour the dog is trying to ensure it will not happen again – he is behind a gate, so is safe.

​Can this behaviour escalate?

Most certainly yes, and these are some of the things that can occur:-

  • The behaviour can become more and more extreme. Each and every time this aggressive behaviour occurs it tends to escalate, and again, from a dogs point of view, the perceived threat left, so the behaviour worked and will be repeated.
  • There are other dogs in the home and they come down to see what is happening and start to bark and act up as well. The initial dog’s arousal levels may get so high that it will exhibit what is called redirected behaviour, and in total frustration will turn on the other dog. This can end up with serious consequences. 
  • The owner tries to interfere to stop the dog – dog turns on the owner and a bite can ensue – the arousal levels have just gone so high that the dog is reacting, not thinking at all. 
  • Not all dogs walking by will accept the aggressive behaviour and may react with aggression in return. This increases aggression in both dogs and the likelihood that they will become aggressive to other dogs when out for walks, and even other dogs in the home.
  • If it is a small dog on the other side of the gate and it is reacting back and there is a gap in the gate at the bottom, or the bars are set wide apart, the small dog can be pulled under the gate or through the bars – this happens, and mostly when it is one of the fighting dog breeds involved. 
  • The gate may open unexpectedly! One of two things normally occurs in this situation – either the aggressing dog will run back towards the house, or heavens forbid he will go through the gate and a serious fight ensues. It is not unusual in these circumstances for the owner walking the other dog to be bitten trying to stop the fight – this is a serious and very dangerous situation. 
  • When engaging in gate aggression, both adrenaline and cortisol are surging through the dogs body and it is in an aroused state and may even be over threshold. Although the behaviour may stop, it does take time for the adrenaline and cortisol levels to drop, and there is always the chance that the aggressive behaviour could occur in another situation.

Not all owners realize that instances such as above can occur and it is of the utmost importance that behaviour such as this is stopped immediately.

Management and Prevention

  • Deny the dog access to the gate – put the dog in another area of the garden where it cannot access the gate.
  • Often suggestions are made to put shade cloth or similar against the gate so that the dog cannot see outside. In some instances this will help to prevent the behaviour, however, with some dogs it can actually increase the frustration.
  • If a situation where the dog goes nuts when inside but is prevented by going outside by a security gate – either keep the main door closed, put shade cloth or similar over the gate to prevent the dog seeing out. 
  • If the dog is engaging at the behaviour at a window, keep the dog out of this room, or shut the curtains. 
  • Ensure that the dog is receiving regular walks and mental stimulation such as safe chew toys, digging pits

We believe any situation where aggression is in place, that a professional should be called in and below will give you an idea of the work that may be done to change the behaviour. 

Changing this Behaviour

We believe that all aggression should be handled by a professional behaviourist, and one with sufficient experience. A trainer is not a behaviourist, and neither is somebody that has done an on-line course over a few months. Becoming a behaviourist involves at least 2 – 4 years of study – understanding dogs – how they think and act, in-depth knowledge of body language, practical experience, understanding of stress, arousal, threshold, triggers that could be contributing towards the behaviour, as well as knowledge of all the modifications that can be used. It is up to the owner to request a copy of the behaviourists qualifications to ensure that they are entrusting their beloved dog to somebody that has the knowledge and experience to change the behaviour and that the behaviourist works only with positive reinforcement methods. Anybody that suggests alpha rolls, jabbing, aversive equipment such as shock collars etc, should be totally avoided. These are the old fashioned methods of working with dogs, and can cause untold long term harm and totally damage your relationship with your dog. 

The first thing the behaviourist will do is to determine why the behaviour is actually happening, and that the dogs mental, physical and social needs are being met. They will also examine your overall relationship with the dog and see if any factors in this regard are contributing to the behaviour and show you how to change same. 

After the above has been examined and any modifications needed brought in, the behaviourist will probably use a method called counter conditioning. Simply put, counter conditioning involves changing the way a dog feels about something – they are going to change the trigger (the dog on the other side of the gate) with something the dog loves – food, and not just regular old kibble, something delicious such as biltong or liver bread or some other favourite treat – this will change the dogs feelings towards dogs going by the gate. 

The owner will probably be given knowledge and tools to be able to call the dog back successfully in the event it does dash towards the gate. 

What is important, is that if a dog is engaging in this behaviour, that owners get help as soon as possible – the longer the behaviour is in place, the longer it can take to change, and the more difficult it can be. 

Source: Friends of the dog

Is cat biting normal?

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Is cat biting normal?

Why Do Cats Bite While Playing?

In the middle of a play session, without warning and seemingly out of nowhere, your cat clamps down on you for a quick, painful nibble. First thought: “Ow! Aren’t we friends?” Second thought: “Why do cats bite when I play with them?”

One of the most common reasons why cats like to sink their tiny — but mighty — teeth into our skin is play aggression. But the good news is that with this information, you’ll not only understand why cats nip, but you’ll also have tools you need to help redirect or, ideally, prevent this unwelcome behaviour.

Why Do Cats Bite While Playing?

Essentially, if your cat nips at you during playtime, it’s their way of saying, “This is fun, but let’s take it to the next level.” Engaging in play with your furbaby is a terrific bonding experience, but if your cat’s playfulness turns aggressive, they’ll bite you or, perhaps, use your entire arm as a chew toy.

Cats play in a way that “involves typical predatory and play behaviours,” notes the ASPCA: stalking, attacking, clawing and biting their perceived opponent. It’s not unusual for them to act this way with their pet parents, and once they’re in the throes of roughhousing, they may have difficulty pulling back.

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Sometimes cat parents don’t realize they’re actually encouraging the biting. As International Cat Care points out, when people play a little too “rough and tumble” with young cats, “they often reinforce the highly excitable behaviour, and encourage kittens to grow up biting and scratching in the name of play with an intensity that can cause injury.” But keep in mind, roughhousing isn’t a good idea with cats of any age.

How to Prevent Cat Nips

The best way to stop aggressive biting is to shut it down before it becomes a habit. It’s not always easy, but your skin will thank you later.

For starters, understanding your cat’s body language can go a long way toward curbing play biting. It’s easy to get distracted while playing together, but you’ll want to pay careful attention to your cat’s stance, ear and tail positions, and eyes.

Remember that the reason cats play bite is that they are acting like you’re prey. And why do cats nip? They’re giving you a warning. If their eyes are dilated, back away slowly. And if they’re crouched and shaking their rear end, you’re about to be ambushed!

You can still goof around and be very active with your cat pal, but there are ways to do so without ending up on the receiving end of their fangs. For example, don’t use your hand or arm as a toy; instead, employ a real toy, such as a catnip mouse or bird on a wand, as the go-between. If you still find yourself under attack, redirect your cat’s attention by tossing a beloved toy in the opposite direction so they’ll dart after it.

If your cat does bite you while playing, don’t react in a way that’ll break the bond of trust between you two. “Never physically punish or even touch a cat during these times,” emphasizes the Cornell Feline Health Center, “as this may cause a cat to become fearful of people or may be interpreted as play, which may inadvertently reward the aggressive behaviour.” So if redirecting doesn’t work, simply walk away and ignore your kitty — they’ll eventually get the hint that this isn’t appropriate behaviour.

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Shifting From Cat Bites to Affectionate Acts

You may be taken aback by unexpected behaviour like play biting, but don’t consider it a sign that your kitty doesn’t love you. Cats have unique ways of showing affection, after all, from head-butting to, yes, “love nips.” When your furry friend gently nibbles on your finger, that’s just fine. When they start all-out chomping on you during playtime, it’s probably time to curb this behaviour.

Instead of allowing nipping at all, encourage more gentle sentiments like kneading and snuggling. If you show a lack of interest in playing rough, your cat might lose interest in it, too.

It’s not always easy to change your cat’s behaviour, but redirecting and preventing your furry friend’s biting urge will help take the sting out of playtime.

Source: Hill’s Pet Nutrition

Pet Emergencies – What can I do?

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Pet Emergencies – What can I do?

The following advice is not meant to replace the role of the veterinarian. However, for animals, we as the owners are generally the first responders to our pets in need. Being prepared for such unforeseen emergencies, will help ease your stress and hopefully help save your pets life.

The aim is to stabilise the pet, relieve pain if possible and provide safe transportation until you reach your vet.

Always remember, the safety of humans takes priority. You cannot help your pet if you put yourself or others in danger.

Stay Safe
Asses the environment and avoid danger or remove possibilities of further injuries.
Eg. if the animal is in the road, get it onto the side of the road immediately.

Animals in pain can be dangerous, even your own dog may want to bite due to being in shock and/or pain. If necessary, restrain the pet with a muzzle, towel or blanket (warm jacket etc) to prevent you being bitten or scratched.

If possible, transport a cat in a box to the vet.

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During Car Accidents – Where you are able to assist
Remove the animal to the side of the road to a shady area, it may require you to drag them if they are large and unable to walk.

Check them to see if they are conscious and breathing (rise and fall of the chest, holding a hand or tissue in front of the nose). Check the eyes & pupils – If the eyes are open and staring with a dilated pupil, the animal will need CPR (IF NO obvious severe evisceration etc is seen).

Perform CPR if no sign of breathing – Remember ABC :  A – Airway /  B – Breathing / C- Circulation (Heart beat)

How to perform CPR in your pet.

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A – Airway;
Ensure the airway is clear, remove any vomit, fluid, foreign body and pull the tongue forward.

B- Breathing;
Perform Nose-to-mouth breathing: Nose-to-mouth resuscitation is administered by first pulling the tongue forward so the tip is just through the teeth and closing the mouth.  Place your hands around the closed mouth sealing it as best you can.  Extend the neck to make a straight line from the nose to the tail and breathe into the animal’s nose.  Small dogs or cats need smaller breaths than large dogs.  After five breaths, re-assess the animal by feeling for a heartbeat and breathing.  If the animal still has a heartbeat but is not breathing, continue with resuscitation at 12 breaths a minute for small dogs and cats and 20 breaths for large dogs.  If the animal doesn’t have a heartbeat, start performing chest compressions

C- Circulation;
Check for a heart beat – Lay the dog on their right side, push the front elbow back to the chest. The spot where the elbow touches the chest is called the inter-costal space and marks where the heart is located. If you don’t see any movement in this area, place your hand over the same location and feel for a heartbeat. If no heartbeat, then start compressions.

Put both hands on the chest with straight arms, and perform cardiac compressions. For the number of compressions, the beat of “staying alive” from the Beegies is ideal.

Lay your hand over the heart (at the inter-costal space) and press firmly enough to compress the chest about one-third to one-half its usual depth. You should aim for 10 – 12 compressions over a five-second span. Repeat these steps at a one breath to 10 – 12 compressions ratio. Because you will be doing more than 100 compressions per minute, a new person should take over compressions after two minutes.

In very large dogs, if a third person is available, also compress the abdomen in large breeds. (If you’re gently compress the front part of the belly or squeeze the dog’s abdomen. Performing these chest compressions can help circulate blood back to the heart. However, it’s most important to focus on the rescue breathing and compressions. Abdominal compressions should be a secondary focus).

In deep chested dogs (eg Bull Dog, Boxer, Boerboel) perform compressions with the dog lying on its back instead of on its side.

Assess the dog
Check periodically to see if the dog has started breathing again – about every two minutes. If not, continue with the artificial respirations until help arrives or you are able to continue CPR while someone drives everyone to the vet.

Recovery Position
If the animal is breathing but still unconscious, lay it on its side with the head and neck slightly extended.  Fold a blanket or towels and place it under the shoulder but not the neck so that the chest is above the head.  This prevents fluids from the mouth going into the lungs.  Keep the pet warm with blankets and transport it as soon as possible to the veterinarian.

Wounds and Bleeding
Approach wounds as you would for a person. Wounds can be anything from a cut, punctures, scrapes or abrasions, to burn wounds.

If excessive bleeding – apply pressure above the wound (between the heart and the wound), cover the wound with a clean cloth or gauze swabs, and bandage until you can reach the vet. Do not remove the initial layers, (this may remove the clot that is forming and cause more bleeding).

Wounds with debri – gently trim excess hair around wound, rinse with running water / saline or flush with a syringe, apply silbecor / anti-septic cream, cover and bandage until you can reach the vet. Paw wounds can be soaked.

Penetration wounds – DO NOT remove any sticks / sharp objects penetrating the chest or abdomen – this may exacerbate internal problems. If necessary, apply dressings around the foreign objects and stabilize the pet and get to the vet as soon as possible.

Grazes and abrasions can be dealt with by trimming the fur around the area, cleaning with water or saline and apply a dressing making sure that it won’t stick to the wound.   

Shock
Knowing your animal is important to distinguish what is not “normal” and gauging how they are doing in a case of emergency.

What is shock? Shock is the body’s way of protecting itself. Recognizing symptoms of shock may save your animals life. There are different reasons for a shocked state, e.g blood loss, being septic due to severe infection, anaphylaxis, extreme pain to name a few obvious examples.

Symptoms will include: weakness (an animal is unable to stand/walk), pale gums (pale pink to white, or bright red to even purple), short shallow breaths, cold legs and paws or having seizures.

Examples that can lead to shock; Car accidents, falling off a height, severe infection (pyometra) or disease (diabetes), weather extremities, seizures, severe bleeding from wounds, burn wounds, knife stab wounds, gun shot wounds (including pellet guns), ruptured stomach ulcers, toxin ingestion for example.

In most cases, manage severe bleeding, keep the animal warm (wrap in a blanket) and try to keep them quiet, continue to talk calmy and gently to them and stroke them softly if they’ll allow. Do not offer food or water, alert the vet you are on the way and transport the animal there immediately.

Poisoning
Obvious signs of poisoning include drooling, vomiting, severe diarrhoea, twitching, tiredness, difficulty breathing and convulsions / seizures, collapsed pet.

Identify the toxin if possible and call your vet for immediate advice, have the following information at hand:

  • How much does your pet weigh?
  • What is the name of the toxin?
  • If the toxin is a medicine:
    • What is the strength?
    • What is the generic name?
    • Is it a special formulation (e.g., extended release)?
  • What is the active ingredient of the toxin?
  • How much do you think your pet ingested?
  • How much could your pet have ingested? (worst-case scenario)
  • How long ago (or what general time frame) did your pet ingest the toxin?
  • Is your pet showing any signs/symptoms?
  • If so, how long have you noticed the signs/symptoms?
  • How old is your pet?
  • Does your pet have any underlying health issues?
  • Is your pet currently on any medications?

It is vital to keep the pet quiet and warm and only act on the vet’s instructions as this will differ depending on the substance that was swallowed.

In the event that an animal has consumed something toxic, and you are aware of this in time, to get them to vomit (inducing emesis) before most of the absorption can take place is the best option. The golden window is within the first 30 minutes of ingestion, but even then, we can only hope for a maximum of 60% of the content to be expelled.

3% hydrogen peroxide has been recommended to use at home in the past, but the latest information has confirmed complications with oesophageal lesions and stomach ulceration, which is why it should be best avoided.

Emesis induction is contraindicated in patients that are symptomatic, have airway disease, have an altered mentation, have already been vomiting, or have ingested a corrosive/caustic agent.

Most common poisonings are due to garden chemicals, rat and snail bait, chocolate, paint or human medications in the home, consuming batteries.

At home remedy: You can attempt to get your dog to vomit by giving it a bolus of a “golf ball size” of non-exothermic washing powder (if you wet the washing power and hold it in your hand, and it does not become warm it is safe to use). If they do not vomit within 5 min, get them to the vet immediately.

Most poisonings will still require veterinary treatment as mentioned we can at best hope for only 40-60% of the toxin being expelled, but if you can prevent the major source of absorption, this can help reduce the long term effects.

If you are not sure if a product is toxic, you can always call your emergency vet for advice.
The American Animal Poisoning Control website and app can be helpful to refer to as well.

Choking
Choking is one of the most stressful emergencies one will experience. This occurs when an object blocks air from interring and leaving the lungs. The foreign object may even be lodged in the oesophagus. Physiological choking may occur due to laryngeal paralysis, anaphylaxis or heat stroke.

Symptoms include a very distressed animal, pawing at the mouth, severe respiratory distress (forceful breathing attempts), blue tongue or gums, gasping / choking sounds, excessive salivation and bulging, large eyes.

If the animal is in extreme distress, and no obvious foreign body can be identified, stay calm and bring that animal to vet as soon as possible.

Alternatively, one can try to remove the object from a choking dog’s windpipe, if it is conscious, open the mouth by grasping the upper jaw with one hand and the lower jaw with the other, tilting the head back slightly.  Pull the tongue to the side and remove the object if possible.  If this isn’t possible, stand behind the dog, put your arms under their belly just in front of the rear limbs and lift their hind legs high off the ground like a wheelbarrow.  Gently shake to see if the object will fall out.  This procedure can be repeated up to 4 times. If the foreign object cannot be dislodged or it is dangerous for you to attempt removing it, contact the vet for advice immediately.

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Cats should be restrained in a towel first. Their mouth can be opened by gently pulling the head upwards and slightly back by placing the thumb and finger on either side of the jaw and the palm across the head. Use the other hand to lower the bottom jaw and remove the object.

See this video and image of the Heimlich manoeuvre in a pet.

Convulsions / Seizures / Fits
Seizures can be a symptom of a problem or a medical condition in your dog. If your dog shows this for the first time, a veterinarian must always be consulted. Causes for these can be due to poisoning, illness, infections and epilepsy.

What does a seizure look like? The animal will become distressed and restless. The first signs usually will be that of excessive drooling, lip smacking, moving into champing jaws / jaw clattering, staring eyes, urination, defecation, collapse, falling over and paddling.

IF you see this, do not approach the animal or try to “remove the tongue from the mouth”. Stay calm and start timing the seizure. Move objects away that may fall on the animal or hurt the animal, and tone done lights and noise (eg. the radio playing).

IF the seizure continues for longer than 5min, roll the animal on a towel or blanket and with the help of someone if it is a large dog, place into the car and take to the vet.

If the seizure is short acting, wait calmly until it is over, contact your vet and take it in for examination. Seizures generally only last for a few seconds, it will always feel longer. Convulsions or ‘fits’ can be quite traumatizing for a pet owner to witness.

Heat Stroke
Heat stroke is when the body’s core temperature rises above normal and due certain factors, they are not able to cool down. This starts a series of events in the body that may lead to complete organ failure and death. This is a very serious condition.

Common causes are from animals exercising in the heat of the day. From a pet being left in a car or area with no shade or ventilation. Brachycephalic dogs and cats are even more predisposed to this due to their restricted airways.

Symptoms are an animal panting excessively with increased breathing noises (from the throat), vomiting, drooling, distress, loss of coordination, collapse and acute death. The animal will also feel very warm by touch.

Should you suspect your pet maybe suffering from heat stroke, remove the animal from the hot environment, start cooling them down with cool to luke warm water. Place a fan on them or drive with the aircon on / windows open. Ice packs covered in a wet towel can be placed between the legs front (auxilla) and back (inguinal).

Transport the animal to the vet as soon as possible.

NEVER immerse the pet or use ice cold water over the body. It will only trap the core temperature due to vasoconstriction and make the heat stroke worse.

Once the pet is comfortable again offer cool water but only in small amounts.  Too much water taken in quickly may cause vomiting.

Bites and Stings
Although knowing what caused the bite or sting is helpful to the veterinarian, never put yourself at risk to try to kill or locate it.

Bee Stings
One of the most common stings that we see. Most bee stings are fortunately not a lethal problem, but may cause allergies.  Most will be stung around the mouth & face, sometimes paw. They can develop fascial swelling, urticaria (lumps and bumps everywhere) and worse case scenario, develop anaphylaxis.

In minor reactions, see if you can find the sting and remove with a sharp knife / bank card by scraping against the angle of sting. Do not struggle with fingers as it will “pump” more venom into the animal.

A cold compress can be applied to the area swelling up, and animal should be taken to the vet.

In the unfortunate event that the animals have been attacked by a swarm of bees, get them to the vet immediately. This is a very serious matter.

Scorpion Stings
Scorpion stings are extremely painful and maybe lethal. Symptoms will range from vocalizing due to unrelenting pain, excessive drooling, tremors, weakness, ataxia, collapse, paralysis and even death.

Anti-venom must be administered and generally the treatment of choice is an induced coma to manage the pain.

Snake Bites
As for snake bites, the treatment of choice is anti-venom administered by your emergency veterinarian.

Stay safe, remove the animal away from the culprit snake if possible and remain calm. Call your emergency vet while on the way. If possible, take a picture / identify the snake.

In South Africa we have 3 types of snake venom – Anti-coagulant (Boom slang), Neurotoxic (eg. Cobra’s) and Cytotoxic ( eg. Puff adder). Boom slang anti-venom must be obtained specifically and fortunately, for the rest we have multi-venom anti-venom vials available in South Africa.

Spider bites
Spider bites are mostly cytotoxic and can cause severe necrotic wounds.

What you can do on the way to vet with in these situations;

Stay calm, and if possible, identify the poisonous animal – take a picture with your phone.

In the case of limbs, initial treatment is to apply a pressure immobilisation bandage. This is done using a crepe or conforming bandage (or panty hose if a bandage is not available) over the bitten area and around the limb. Apply it firmly but not so tight that it stops the blood flow. Bandage down to the paw and then up as far as possible on the limb. A splint can be applied using a rolled-up newspaper or piece of wood with a second bandage. Do not remove the bandages, keep the animal as quiet as possible and transport him to the vet immediately.

Near Drowning
In the event that an animal is found in the pool – Immediately remove the animal, hang upside down to allow for excess fluid to drain from the lungs, neck and mouth.

If non-responsive, check for heart beat and breathing.
If a heartbeat is present start to perform CPR, with the heart beat only perform breathing until animal become responsive. Take to the vet as soon as possible.

Please note whether you have a salt or chlorine pool.

If no heart beat present, full on CPR is required.

CPR on dogs

First Aid for Pets – How to prepare for the unexpected

Source: TEARS Animal Rescue

Dog bites – prevention and treatment

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Dog bites – prevention and treatment

Dog bites are the most common animal bites treated in emergency rooms across the country. Young children are the most common victims, because they are at a similar eye level to a dog. They may also inadvertently provoke attacks by pulling a dog’s ears or tail, tugging at their fur or disturbing them while they are eating.  

Teach children respect for animals

That’s why it’s so important to supervise children around animals – especially unfamiliar dogs. Teach them from a young age how to approach and interact with dogs safely. They should always ask permission before petting unfamiliar dogs, and treat the family dog with respect.

While most dog attacks involve unfamiliar dogs, there are cases of family pets turning on their owners. In January 2024, a 60 year old Durban man had to be stabilised by paramedics and hospitalised after he was bitten multiple times by his boerboel. Less than a month earlier, a one-year-old baby was badly bitten by the family’s dog.

Children under the age of six are more likely to suffer serious injuries from a dog attack as they will be bitten on the head, face and neck. Older children and adults are more likely to bitten on the legs, arms and hands.

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How to protect yourself against dog bites

Learn to recognise signs of stress or aggression in dogs. Most will warn you by growling, raising their hackles, snarling or adopting a stiff body posture. If a dog shows these signs of aggression, retreat slowly and avoid provoking them further.

Respect dogs’ boundaries and personal space, just as you would a person’s. Avoid disturbing them when they are eating, sleeping, or caring for puppies.

Avoid situations that may provoke or agitate dogs, such as teasing or rough play. It may be a game to you, but it could turn into something else if the dog feels threatened or protective of a toy.

Be cautious around stray or unfamiliar dogs, especially if they appear frightened or aggressive. Handling a stray dog may result not only in being bitten, but the possibility of being infected by rabies, which is rife in KZN and other parts of the country at the moment. If an unfamiliar dog approaches you, remain calm and avoid making sudden movements.

Stand still or back away slowly without making direct eye contact. Do not attempt to run away, which may trigger the dog’s chase instinct. If the dog knocks you over, curl into a ball and protect your face and neck.

What to do if you are bitten by a dog

In a serious attack, the first priority is to restrain and remove the dog. The second is to obtain medical help. Call the paramedics or get the victim to a hospital or doctor as soon as possible.

If the bite is less serious, wash it thoroughly with soap and warm water and apply antiseptic and a dressing. Dogs’ saliva and teeth may carry bacteria and a tetanus shot will be needed.

Regardless of the severity of the bite, if the skin is broken or scratched, there is a danger of rabies infection.

If you know the owner of the dog, ask to see proof of current rabies vaccination. If the status of the dog is unknown, your doctor will recommend preventative treatment .

While not every dog bite results in rabies, this is definitely a case of being better to be safe than sorry. It’s also important to start treatment as soon as possible following a dog bite – ideally within 24 hours. The first symptoms of rabies can appear within a few days, and once the symptoms appear, there is no cure.

Should I contact the SPCA?

Contrary to popular belief, the SPCA does not get involved in dog attacks on humans. Our mandate is protect animals against humans (not the other way round) in terms of The Animals Protection Act 71/1962.

In terms of Municipal by-laws, we have no jurisdiction regarding aggressive dogs, dogs out of their property, nuisance dogs, excessive barking, ripping open rubbish bags of defecating in public places. You will need to report these cases to your local Metro.

We only get involved if the owner of the dog that has bitten somebody asks us to collect the animal for humane euthanasia.

What recourse do you have if you’ve been bitten by a dog?

Under South African law, the owner of the dog that attacked you is deemed responsible, especially if he or she was negligent. For example a gate was left open, allowing the animal to stray onto a public thoroughfare such as a road or park.

You can pursue a case against the owner in three different ways:

  1. Lay a charge at your local police station, which will be investigated by SAPS.
  2. Lay a charge in terms of the Municipal by-laws, which will be investigated by Metro Police.
  3. Sue the owner of the animal and claim damages via a civil case, to be dealt with by a private attorney.

Victims of dog attacks are entitled to compensation for their injuries and related expenses. Typically, this includes the cost of medical treatment, including reconstructive surgery if necessary.

Loss of earnings

You may also be able to claim for loss of earnings, if the bite and/or medical treatment causes you to miss work, and emotional distress if the attack was traumatic or results in severe scarring, especially facial scarring, that impacts your quality of life.

Take photos of your injuries to substantiate your claim, and ask for copies of your medical records from the hospital, clinic or doctor who treated you. If the case cannot be settled amicably, you may have to go to court to get compensation.

You will not be entitled to compensation if you were trespassing on the property or you ignored “Beware of the Dog” signs on the gate. By entering a property that displays warning signs, you will be deemed to have accepted the risk.

If you provoked the dog – e.g. teased it through the fence or threw stones at it – you will not be entitled to compensation if it subsequently attacks you. The same applies to any threatening behaviour towards the owner, where the dog can be expected to react protectively.

How to reduce the chances of your dog biting someone

It’s up to dog owners to behave responsibly to ensure that their animals are prevented from causing harm to others.

As a responsible dog owner, you should spay or neuter your dog. Not only does this help prevent unwanted litters, it also reduces aggressive behaviour, straying and territorial instincts.

Make sure your dog is properly secured inside your property or on a lead when out in public.

Dog training and socialising are extremely helpful in teaching dogs how to interact with other people, dogs, objects and situations appropriately, without fear or aggression.

Source: SPCA – Durban & Coast

Revolting against Rabies

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Rabies

Just the mere mention of the word “rabies” is enough to trigger alarm and panic amongst pet lovers, given the fatality rate associated with this horrific virus. However, it is important for all responsible pet owners to recognise that rabies is preventable and with a deeper understanding, you will be empowered to protect your furry friend from the merciless hands of this viral disease.

Causes of Rabies in Cats and Dogs

Rabies can be transmitted to felines and canines when they are exposed to the saliva of an infected animal through a bite. Even though it is less likely, transmission is also possible through a scratch or if your pet’s mucous membranes or open wounds become exposed to the saliva of an animal with rabies. Wild animals in South Africa, such as bats, black-backed jackals, bat-eared foxes and mongooses are common carriers of this unrelenting virus.

Symptoms

Initially, the infected pet may portray extreme behavioural modifications that are contrary to their normal character such as anxiety, agitation and aggression. Energetic and enthusiastic pets may become meek and depressed, whilst jovial and peaceful pets may become cantankerous.

The infected pet may lash out at or attack anything alive or inanimate. They may also be inclined to incessantly lick, chew or bite the area of their body that was bitten. Oversensitivity to sound, light and touch can also be experienced as the virus advances.

Other symptoms of rabies in cats and dogs are:

  • Fever
  • Paralysis – especially that of the tongue, throat, jaw and legs causing the notorious symptom of foaming from the mouth.
  • Pica – consumption of non-food substances such as dirt or rocks
  • Seizures
  • Drooling
  • Chewing stones
  • Wandering around aimlessly
  • Disorientation
  • Incoordination
  • Lethargy
  • Loss of appetite
  • Hypersensitivity
  • Hypersalivation

Diagnosis

If your pet is projecting these associated symptoms after a vicious attack by or contact with a rabid or wild animal, contact your veterinarian immediately. As the virus has an incubation period of as short as ten days, the vet may quarantine your pet to confirm the case of rabies. Fluid testing of saliva, skin and urine are some of the preferred diagnostic methods. However, the most accurate diagnosis is received through the “direct fluorescent antibody test” which unfortunately, can only be performed after an animal passes away because this diagnostic procedure requires tissue from the brain.

Treatment

Unfortunately, there is no effective treatment for rabies in cats and dogs. Confirmed cases of rabies in unvaccinated animals must be reported to the local public health authorities who may quarantine the animal or devastatingly, euthanise it based on the regulations in the relevant region.

Prevention

Ensuring that your pets are properly vaccinated is not only important for them, it is also important for your safety as a pet owner and those around you. Indoor animals have a lower chance of being subjected to vicious attacks or being exposed to rabid animals. Humans must exercise caution when encountering a pet potentially carrying the virus and any places which may have been infected, should be thoroughly sterilised by using an appropriate bleaching solution.

Plan of Action if your Pet’s been in Contact with a Rabid Animal

  1. Consult your veterinarian immediately!
  2. Alert your local health department of the incident and carefully follow their instructions.
  3. Alert your local animal control officer if the rabid animal is still roaming free so they can professionally and safely catch the animal.
  4. The rabies virus may remain active on your pet’s skin for two hours after the incident, so wear gloves and protective clothing when handling them within this time frame.
  5. If your pet has been bitten by a rabid animal and was luckily vaccinated beforehand, a rabies booster should be administered as soon as possible, and they should be closely monitored for 45 days thereafter.

 

Written for inFURmation
by Taliah Williamson