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Dogs Can Smell Bad People – Confirmed by Scientists

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Dogs Can Smell Bad People

Have you ever noticed that your dog had an aggressive attitude toward certain persons?

After recent research into the domestic field, scientists were able to confirm that dogs can smell the bad people, reading human gestures and facial expressions.

Dogs Can Smell Bad People

Dog knows when a person is untrustworthy.

A more complex study by Neuroscience and Biobehavioral Reviews proved that dogs can make a distinction between a decent/nice person and a bad person.

Dogs Can Smell Bad People

The researchers performed a very interesting experiment on many different dogs and come to a surprising conclusion. Take a look at the following video

Source: Knowledge Time

How to Handle Dogs That Dig

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Dogs that dig

If your dog is slowly turning your garden into a cratered moonscape then try not to despair because dogs that dig are only doing what comes naturally.

The first step you should take is to try to identify the reason why he is digging. Dogs may dig because of a predatory instinct or they may be digging to bury bones or toys. This is instinctual behaviour designed to hide food from other predators.
Digging may also be part of a nesting instinct, particularly if your dog is pregnant. They will also dig a hole if it is too hot because digging exposes cool earth and provides a small, shaded shelter. If your dog is digging under a fence or next to a gate he may simply be trying to get out of the garden. Some dogs dig to alleviate boredom or just for fun. Others may have a genetic predisposition to dig, Terriers for example, are notorious diggers.

What can you do?
Once you’ve identified why your dog is digging it becomes simpler to correct. All you will need is a little patience and persistence. If your dog is digging in order to chase wildlife you need to find a way to keep them apart, perhaps you could construct some kind of shield or obstacle so he won’t be able to see the other animals – after all, if he can’t see them, he won’t be as tempted to chase them.
If the wildlife is on his side of the fence, then chances are, he won’t be fast enough to catch it anyway – squirrels and birds are usually far too speedy for the average dog.

Rats and mice will normally show a dog a clean pair of heels too. Take care if you use poison to deal with vermin such as this, as it could affect your dog as well. Additionally, if you use traps to catch vermin, make sure to keep your dog away from them so he doesn’t get harmed.

Expending energy
If your dog simply seems to be trying to get rid of lots of pent up energy you should try giving him more exercise. Take longer or more frequent walks and try to schedule some ‘playtime’ involving games like fetch that will tire out your dog.
Never punish your dog for digging a hole. Even if you bring your dog to the dig site he won’t be able to associate his digging with the punishment. If you catch him in the act, direct him to another activity and reward him for choosing to do this new activity instead.

Source: Hills

Website: www.hillspet.co.za

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Do Cats Like to Be Petted?

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Do Cats Like to Be Petted?

A few years ago, the journal Frontiers in Psychology confirmed what pet parents already knew: that positive interaction with animals reduces stress in humans. This is great news for your health and longevity, but if you have a cat, you may wonder if the feeling is mutual. Do cats like to be petted? Do cats like to be held as much as we like to hold them?

If you do it correctly, the answer is yes. Many cats, despite the common and persistent myth that they are aloof, welcome affection from their people. In fact, petting and holding your cat helps build a loving relationship between the two of you.

Approaches to Petting
Petting your cat can be a tricky business. It’s easy to misread a kitty’s signals and end up touching them the wrong way or in a spot where they don’t like to be touched.

Do Cats Like to Be Petted?

Let’s say, for example, they roll around on the floor and expose their tummy. This is their way of showing that they trust you. If you try to rub your cat’s angelic belly fluff, however, they will probably respond with a scratch or a bite. You may think (with good reason) that your cat hates you, or that it’s their way of telling you they don’t want to be petted at all. In reality, they are telling you that they just don’t want you to pet them right there, right now. Some cats do love a good belly rub, explains Petful, but you have to approach it with finesse, and only when they’re calm and relaxed.

In 2013, a study from the journal Physiology & Behaviour was widely misrepresented as proof that petting cats stresses them out. John Bradshaw, director of the Anthropology Institute at the University of Bristol, England reassures National Geographic that it was something in the cats’ lives and not the act of petting that contributed to the animal’s anxiety. (The experiment actually looked at how cats that live alone experience stress differently from those in multi-cat households.) Petting can comfort your kitty, so go ahead and snuggle up.

Head, Shoulders, Cheeks and Nose
So, in which places do cats like to be petted? The head, chin and neck are often their favourites. While some cats enjoy having their tails touched, others will recoil and even experience pain from a tail stroke. Take it slowly, paying close attention to your cat’s reactions to your touch and always respecting their preferences.

When approaching your kitty, the most important trick is to allow them to take the lead, Animal Planet’s Jackson Galaxy tells Petcha. Let your cat sniff your index finger and touch their nose against it first. If they want to cuddle, they’ll push their face against your hand and direct you to their ears, chin, or wherever they want to be petted. Going slowly will create a more relaxed, warm-hearted environment. If they start nudging you with their head or rubbing their cheeks against your body, it’s a good sign, says Tufts University’s Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine. “Bunting” behaviour is how cats transfer the scents in their cheek glands to beloved surroundings and family members.

In addition to being petted, do cats like to be held? Sometimes. Most cats love to snuggle, and they’re typically responsive to being held if you introduce them to it gradually. The best way to approach your cat for a hug is to start with a few soft pets, then carefully pick them up. Be sure to secure all four of their legs so that they don’t dangle. If they feel safe in your arms, they’ll be more inclined to stay there. If they squirm and want to get away, set them down gently and try again later. Learning to snuggle takes baby steps (and occasionally a tasty reward for not mauling your arms on the way down).

Do Cats Like to Be Petted?

Does Breed Matter? What About Age?
Some cat breeds are more receptive to pets and hugs than others. The Siamese, for example, is a playful and fun-loving breed that will demand attention from you, as will the affectionate Ragdoll.

Don’t be alarmed if your cat resists physical attention. It may just be part of their personality or upbringing. If a kitten isn’t socialised with humans at an early age, they may be reluctant to accept affection. They may also need more coaxing if you adopt them as an adult and don’t know their backstory. You can acclimate your kitty using some of the strategies above, but some cats simply don’t enjoy being picked up, preferring to be a nestle-next-to-you cat instead of a lap cat.

Building trust is a gradual process in any relationship. When you invest your love and affection, you’ll be rewarded with a feline best friend (and maybe even a belly rub).

Source: Hills
Writer: Christine O’Brien
Website: www.hillspet.co.za

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Responsible pet parents spay and neuter their pets.

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RESPONSIBLE PET PARENTS SPAY AND NEUTER THEIR PETS

Spaying and neutering have many benefits, including health, behaviour & community benefits.

There are two big reasons why you should spay and neuter your pets.  We have a massive pet overpopulation crisis worldwide, with not nearly enough homes, never mind good homes.  This means that millions of healthy animals are being euthanized (killed humanely) annually. Another reason is it is good for their health!

THE PET OVERPOPULATION CRISIS

You need to understand the magnitude of this overpopulation crisis and then, hopefully, you will understand why many of us advocate so hard for it.

  • One female cat and her offspring can exponentially produce 370 000 cats in just seven years.
  • One female dog and her offspring can exponentially produce 67 000 dogs in six years.
  • Only 1 out of every 10 dogs born, find a home.
  • According to Rescue Rehab SA, approximately 1 million dogs and cats are euthanized in South Africa every year, that is 2740 a day!
  • According to the Humane Society of the USA, a cat or dog is euthanized at shelters every 10s.
  • A report by Mars Petcare showed 224 million animals are homeless in the USA, UK, SA, Mexico, Greece, Russia, China, India & Germany and about 30% of animals in SA are homeless.
  • At least one in four pets brought to shelters are purebred and this number is climbing.

Although we promote adoption, we can’t adopt our way out of this problem, so we need to fix (pardon the pun) it. We have heard all the bad excuses, debunked the myths and I educate about it daily on the SPAY & NEUTER SA page.

One of the worst excuses I have heard is that preventing pets from having litters is unnatural and that if God thought it was a problem he would make them sterile.  The fact is that we have already interfered with nature by domesticating dogs, cats and other animals. We domesticated the dog 15 000 years ago and the cat 8 000 years ago. In doing so, we helped create this problem. Now it’s our responsibility to solve it. It’s also unnatural to be killing so many of them in our pounds and shelters each year. You can’t blame the shelters, but you should blame breeders and dealers of any kind.

 

IT IS GOOD FOR THEIR HEALTH

When you spay and neuter your pets it can lead to longer and happier lives.  There are many benefits of spay and neuter for their health which include a lower risk for certain diseases like cancers and pyometra. It certainly eliminates the stress associated with pregnancy.  It improves behaviour, especially when dealing with females in heat and males marking or spraying and wandering out of the yard in search of these females which they can smell from far away. 

RESPONSIBLE PET PARENTS SPAY AND NEUTER THEIR PETS.3

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT SPAYING & NEUTERING
WHAT DOES SPAY & NEUTER MEAN?

It’s important to recognize the difference between sterilization and desexing (traditional spay and neuter). Whereas the former procedure eliminates a dog’s ability to procreate, desexing sterilizes but also eliminates the dog’s ability to produce sex hormones for the remainder of their life.

Vetcare.com defines it as follows:

The word “spay” refers to the sterilization of female pets. During the ovariohysterectomy, or the typical “spay”, the ovaries, fallopian tubes and uterus are removed from a female dog or cat.

The term “neuter” refers to the castration of male pets.  During orchiectomy, or the typical “neuter”, the testes are removed from a male dog or cat.

Both the spay and neuter procedure makes them unable to reproduce and reduces or eliminates breeding-related behaviours. In females it eliminates her heat cycle.

WHAT AGE SHOULD I SPAY/NEUTER MY PET?

An experienced vet can spay and neuter at an age as young as 6-8 weeks old, however, the risks involved with anesthesia may be slightly greater at this age.  Older females that are not spayed are at risk too. There is generally no other age limit for the procedure as long as your pet is healthy.

We support spay and neuter at around 6 months of age. We have done so with our pets who all reach ripe old ages and are rarely sick.

SHOULD I LET MY PET HAVE BABIES BEFORE I SPAY THEM?

Most veterinarians and the most recent research recommends that animals are spayed before their first heat cycle (before the age of 7 months or so). This drastically reduces the risk of mammary tumors later in life, prevents uterine infections and unwanted pregnancy. Pregnancy can put unnecessary stress on your pet’s body.

MY PET JUST GAVE BIRTH, HOW LONG SHOULD I WAIT TO SPAY?

Please prevent this, but if it did happen, the suggested time for animals that have recently given birth is about 2 weeks after the young have been weaned and the mother’s milk has dried up.

WHAT ARE SIGNS THAT MY CAT/DOG IS IN HEAT? (Vetcare.com)

Dogs have outward signs of being in heat. The vulva swells, and there is bleeding present for 1-1 ½ weeks. Just after the bleeding stops, most dogs will be receptive to mating for 1-2 weeks. Most dogs will go into heat twice a year, in the spring and fall.  Some dogs may skip the fall cycle.

Cats go into heat for the first time typically when they are 5-7 months old. A cat will be in heat (receptive to mating and able to become pregnant) for up to two weeks and then go out of heat. If she has not been mated, two weeks later, she will go back into heat again. This cycling in and out of heat will continue for several months.

Cats can have their first heat cylce at around 4 months of age.

WHAT ARE THE RISKS?

Even though spay and neuter are major surgical procedures, they are some of the most common procedures done by vets.  As with any surgery, there are risks associated with anesthesia and potential surgical complications. The overall occurrence of these risks is very rare.

WILL MY PET GAIN WEIGHT?

Probably not. Just like people, pets become overweight when they eat too much or exercise too little. Choosing a diet that is species-appropriate and suited to the health and lifestyle of your pet is important to prevent weight gain.

WILL THEIR BEHAVIOUR CHANGE AFTER THE SURGERY?

The spay and neuter will most likely not alter your pet’s basic personality which is mainly determined by the breed and a few other factors. It can result in some behavioural changes, but usually for the better! 

WILL MY MALE CAT STOP SPRAYING IF I GET HIM NEUTERED?

Spraying is common in unneutered male cats. They want to mark their territory and it would be best to neuter your cat before they develop this behaviour. Males may still engage in full-testosterone male behaviors while their male sex hormone levels diminish after surgery. This can take 6-8 weeks. Remember that male rabbits can still be fertile for a few weeks after neutering, as there may be sperm left in the reproductive tract!

DOES SPAYING & NEUTERING HURT?

During a spay or neuter surgery, the animal is fully anesthetized, so they feel no pain. Afterward, some animals seem to experience some discomfort temporarily, but with pain medication, discomfort may not be experienced at all.

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO HEAL?

According to vetcare.com, most spay and neuter skin incisions are fully healed within about 10–14 days, which coincides with the time that stitches or staples, if any, will need to be removed.

WHICH VET TO CHOOSE?

Even though this procedure is a common procedure for vets, not all vets are good at it, so do your homework on the vet! Cats & dogs are common patients, but please use an exotic qualified vet for other animals!

SHOULD ALL ANIMALS BE SPAYED & NEUTERED?

The massive overpopulation crisis includes more than just cats and dogs, so the answer is mostly yes.  There might be exceptions due to safety or medical reasons and those animals need highly responsible owners to prevent litters. Spaying or neutering a bird is not a routine surgery like it is with many mammals and can be riskier. There are many other ways to prevent your birds from reproducing offspring. Removing eggs of egg-laying animals (the right way) is another method.

CAN YOU SPAY A FEMALE IN HEAT?

Although possible, most vets will probably advise against it due to more swelling and a higher risk of bleeding. This surgery may take longer and be more expensive.

CAN’T WE JUST SPAY THE FEMALES AS THEY HAVE THE LITTERS?

No darling, it takes two to tango if you missed biology class.  The female can only have so many puppies/kittens at once, but the male can impregnate many females around the same time.

IF I KEEP THEM SAFE IN MY YARD, DO I STILL NEED TO SPAY & NEUTER THEM?

Yes, for sure!  Do you know that guy called Murphy?  Animals get in and out of yards and saying it was an unexpected litter doesn’t fly.  If your pet is not spayed or neutered, you can totally expect it.

ARE THERE SPECIFIC PRECAUTIONS TO TAKE AFTER THE PROCEDURE?

Apart from the usual veterinary advice like keeping your pet still and keeping the wound clean, you also need to phone your vet the moment you think something is not right and keep the freshly-neutered males away from non-spayed females for some time.

When it comes to male neuters for various species, after the testicles are removed, it takes time for all of the residual sperm to clear out of the pipes. Ask your vet how long, but some sources suggest days to weeks. During this time, a freshly-neutered male can still impregnate females.

IS THE PROCEDURE EXPENSIVE?

It probably depends on what you spend money on and whether your pet’s health is a priority to you. The cost of spaying or neutering depends on the sex, size, and age of the pet, your veterinarian’s fees, and a few other factors. Remember that spay or neuter surgery is a one-time cost and the cost far outweighs the cost of health-related issues due to not sterilizing or even for raising litters. There are many opportunities to do this at more affordable rates and adoption fees include it!

n general, spaying tends to be more expensive than neutering. Spaying involves opening your dog or cat’s stomach to access the animal’s reproductive organs where neutering is less complex.

The cost may vary from town to town, but according to Pawpawpets.com, the average cost of a spay in South Africa is around R1350 for a female cat and around R1800 to a crazy R4000 for a female dog. Neuters can cost around R750-R1000 for a male cat and around R1200 – R2500 for a male dog.

THE BIGGEST CRITICISM OF EARLY SPAY & NEUTER
There are always two sides to a coin and it is important to look at both.

Some research shows that in desexing spays and neuters – surgical procedures that remove the gonads and associated sex hormones – can have a long-term negative impact on their health.

The research mostly suggest this more in large dog breeds. The advice then is to have them spayed or neutered after they turned one year old, but again then they need a highly responsible owner. You must also remember that the relationship between sex hormones, health and wellness is more complex and can be influenced by many aspects like sex, breed, age, environment and more.

I have not yet seen these negative effects and I think there is more research needed on this as single case studies are not enough. With this massive overpopulation crisis worldwide, the benefits far outweigh the risk for me.

If this does occur, it seems that hormone restoration therapy may be beneficial to symptomatic spayed and neutered dogs.

What are alternatives then? 

When a pet is left intact, it requires a highly responsible pet guardian who is fully committed to and capable of preventing mating and litters.

Another option is sterilizing so the testes or ovaries can continue to produce hormones. This can be accomplished through vasectomy and hysterectomy. According to Dr. Karen Becker, traditional spaying and neutering are basically the only techniques vets are currently taught and we need to change that.

Changing the fate of animals and the massive overpopulation crisis resolves around three principles namely sterilization, education, stricter and enforced laws for those who don’t respond to being asked nicely.  No breeding can be “responsible” when we have a massive overpopulation crisis and when you support breeders, you are part of the problem.

BE PART OF THE SOLUTION AND JOIN THE SPAY & NEUTER REVOLUTION

  • Spay & neuter your pets.
  • Share, educate & advocate for it.
  • Donate to spay & neuter campaigns.
  • Support petitions on the topic.
  • Don’t support animal dealers, breeders, or pet shops that fuel the overpopulation crisis.
  • Adopt from reputable organizations.

Can you see now why reputable animal welfare organizations are all up-in-your-business about spay and neuter?

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin
Website: www.thebulletin.co.za

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Cat Jumping? How to Keep Her Paws on the Ground

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In a cat’s world, nothing is off limits: the inside of boxes, underneath a bed, on top of your keyboard. It’s all fair game to a cat that wants to play, rest, hide, or is just plain curious.

That cat privilege extends—in their mind—to perches on the top of your counters, the upper reaches of a bookshelf, and even the top of the refrigerator. After all, cat jumping skills are top-notch. Cats can easily exceed altitudes six times their height. A study in the Journal of Experimental Biology reports that cats are superior jumpers because of the limb length and muscle mass of theCatasir back legs. Cats start a jump in a very deep crouch, then lift their front legs before “an explosive extension” of their back legs.

While there is no argument that a cat’s jumping ability is impressive, it can also be annoying (and dangerous, as Vetstreet notes cats don’t always land on their feet) to have cats regularly leaping to spots in your home that are high above their heads.

How can pet parents keep cats off furniture, shelves, counters, and anywhere else in the home where they don’t belong?

Clean off Shelves

Cats are naturally curious. A pen, a set of keys, or a fragile knick-knack can catch their attention and tempt them to jump up to explore this “toy” that has been left for them to find. By keeping shelves clear of clutter, you can also lessen your cat’s interest in exploring places you don’t want them to go. This can also be beneficial to you as cats are known for knocking things off shelves, and unfortunately they aren’t good at handling a broom and dustpan to clean up the mess after themselves.

Cat Jumping

Keep Food off Kitchen Counters

A cat’s sense of smell is much better than yours, so if they smell something tasty, they are likely to jump up to try to sneak a nibble. That can be dangerous for them, depending on what the food is. By keeping counters clear of food and crumbs, you’ll discourage your kitty from leaping onto your kitchen counters. If you find that your cat is intensely curious about what you’re making for dinner—and won’t stay off the counters while you’re preparing it—simply shut your cat in another room until the kitchen is clean.

Shut the Blinds

Cats like to jump to window sills to take in the outdoor view. If there’s a windowsill that you don’t want your cat to use, simply shut the blinds to take away the kitty TV. But make sure you give your cat at least one spot to look outside, as cats enjoy watching the world go by.

Give Them an Alternative

A cat jumping condo gives your furry friend a place to jump, exercise, and explore. Keep it interesting for them by rotating the toys, boxes to hide in and even crumpled pieces of paper to bat around. Be imaginative! Cat trees are also an excellent way to let your cats jump and climb to their hearts desire. It’s important to note that you shouldn’t completely eliminate your cat’s ability to jump. It’s part of their innate behaviour built into their DNA from their ancestors, where they would climb trees to escape predators as well as stalk their prey from high above before pouncing. Providing an approved place for exercise and jumping will also help keep your cat off of other high areas where they might not be welcomed.

Use Double-Sided Tape

Cats hate the feel of double-sided tape on their paws, so it can be a good deterrent for a cat who continues to jump to a place you don’t want them to go. If it’s a spot you use frequently, attach the double-sided tape to a place mat so it’s easily movable.

Understand Their Jumping Behaviour

It’s true that jumping is coded in your cat’s DNA. They are hardwired to enjoy being up high where they are safe, but it is also good as the parent to understand the need to be hidden away from everyone. If you notice your cat jumping up high more frequently or shying back in hard to reach areas like cabinets or the top of a closet it might be because they are stressed or not feeling their best. Because of their ancestral lineage, cats that are sick or injured will hide themselves away to keep out of reach of predators. They might also be trying to get away from some other sort of danger if they feel afraid. It’s helpful to understand what they might be fearful of to help remove it from the environment. Slowly, as your cat starts to feel safer, they will come back down to your level and interact more.

Cats are natural jumpers so you shouldn’t discourage the behaviour altogether. But with a little training, you can teach your cat where not to leap.

Source: Hills
Writer: Kara Murphy
Website: www.hillspet.co.za

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Resource Guarding – Now What?

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Resource Guarding - Now What?

Image: Pixabay

Resource guarding is exactly that – guarding a resource. This occurs in dogs when they exhibit behavior like standing over, biting, lunging/charging and growling over anything that is precious to them. This may range from toys to food, a spot on the couch, their safe space etc. anything of value to them. This behavior can be discouraged if training starts early. But, when your dog displays this behavior, it is best to clear things like toys and bowls before visitors come over, for your dog’s peace of mind and the safety of your guests.

Resource guarding often stems from a place of insecurity or anxiety. The guard because they have a fear of something being taken away, because they feel they have to protect something.

In extreme cases you may have to enroll the help from a behaviorist on how to work with your dog. There are certain ways to retrain your dog in some instances. But with extreme cases it is best to get expert advice. It is also important that you put certain precautions in place. If your dog is food guarding, do not go near the food bowl when he is eating. If he doesn’t eat everything in one sitting, do not leave food standing around once he has finished.

If your dog is guarding toys, it is important not to try and punish him by taking the toys away. He is guarding it because he is fearful that it will be taken away. Give your dog space and leave the toys alone. If you have kids at home, it is important that you are always supervising their interaction with your dog. Kids can’t read a dog’s behavior to the point where they know when they are being warned off.

If you have more than one dog, and food guarding is an issue, feed you dogs separately so they cannot get to each other during feeding times. this will prevent your dog from feeling threatened while eating. Dogs who guard their food will often gulp their food down to prevent others from getting to it. This can be dangerous and cause your dog to regurgitate or choke. To prevent this try feeding your dog in a slow feeder bowl. These bowls make it hard for a dog to eat very fast.

Resource Guarding - Now What?

Image: Pixabay

A trick people sometimes use to show their dogs that they are not a threat while their dogs are eating, is to walk past the dog while eating and drop a treat on the floor. Make sure, the treat is more desirable than the food in his bowl. Don’t stop moving when you do this. Just drop the treat and carry on. If your dog stiffens then you know you’ve come too close. Keep doing this and see if the body language changes with time. This is a very slow process but may help your dog feel more comfortable with having you around at feeding times Resource guarding of any kind is a serious issue. And though you as a responsible owner need to have precautions in place, it is important to get help from an Expert.

Socializing a puppy well, feeding a litter together, early training for your puppy are all things you can do to help prevent this from behavior as they grow up.

We always say this, but the effort you put into the raising of your puppy, is extremely important and even more rewarding when you have a well- balanced happy adult dog.

Source: English & French Bulldog Rescue SA

Do you think you have an aggressive dog?

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DO YOU THINK YOU HAVE AN AGGRESSIVE DOG

Image: Pixabay

Animals being aggressive is a complex behaviour and should be identified correctly and addressed immediately by qualified individuals!

Aggressive behaviour is probably the most common behavioural problem in dogs seen by behaviour professionals and the most dangerous one seen in companion dogs.  Many behaviours that people perceive as aggressive are actually normal forms of communication. Behaviour is one of the most common reasons why people surrender animals, especially dogs to shelters and aggression is one of them.

As the Whole Dog Journal shares: “The broad spectrum of “aggressive behaviours” is technically called “agonistic behaviours” and is defined in ethology as, “pertaining to the range of activities associated with aggressive encounters between members of the same species or social group, including threat, attack, appeasement, or retreat.” So, while a growl-lunge-bite sequence would be easily recognized by most people as aggression, more subtle agonistic behaviours such as a freeze, a hard stare, or even a lack of eye contact, may go unnoticed (and unaddressed)”. The lack of understanding of basic and normal animal behaviour remains part of the problem!

Part of the problem is also that there has been a cultural shift about dog aggression. I agree with Patt Miller that our culture has become over-sensitized to dog bites.  In the past, if a child was bitten by a neighbour’s dog, the mother would usually question the child about what they did to provoke the animal. Nowadays, however, the first response is to contact a lawyer or a behaviour specialist (less likely), or even take the dog to a shelter. We have become a society that is increasingly fearful of aggression. Read more about the Pitbull crisis in SA and dog bite prevention.

DO YOU THINK YOU HAVE AN AGGRESSIVE DOG

SOME FACTORS THAT MAY CONTRIBUTE TO DOG AGGRESSION

Aggression in animals can be caused by a variety of factors, such as fear, excess energy, self-defence, or pain and physical discomfort for example.

1. Lack of Socialization: Dogs that are not properly socialized may become aggressive when they encounter unfamiliar people or animals. Pups learn valuable information about behaviour from their mom/dad.  If they are removed before 10-12 weeks, then this could affect their future behaviour negatively too.  

2. Fear: Dogs may become aggressive when they feel threatened or scared which is a normal response for us as humans too. “Aggressive” behaviour when defending themselves or a mom protecting her puppies are also examples.

3. Pain: Dogs in pain may become aggressive as a way to protect themselves.

4. Dominance: Dogs may become aggressive in an attempt to establish dominance over other animals or people. Whether people believe it or not, animals do establish hierarchy and what appears to be aggressive behaviour might be part of that, although possibly normal. Sometimes just the company of other dogs may be stressful to your dog which may lead to “aggressive” behaviour.

5. Breed genetics: Some breeds of dogs might be predisposed to aggression and bad breeding practices have certainly contributed to this. All dogs can bite, but some may do more damage than others. Aggression can’t be blamed on the breed.  The breed of a dog can tell you what they can do, but how they are raised and cared for, determines what they will do.  I believe dog bites are 100% preventable and understanding body language is key to prevention.

6. Hormones: An earlier study showed that dogs with high levels of the hormone vasopressin may be more aggressive than dogs with lower levels; higher levels of oxytocin (the “love hormone”) and higher oxytocin-to-vasopressin levels are seen in the breeds least likely to behave aggressively. Hormone levels when a bitch is in heat may contribute to “aggressive” behaviour for both her and males. One of the many reasons we support spay & neuter.

7. Your response: The owner’s prior experience with dogs can contribute to or reinforce certain behaviours and when you panic it may worsen the situation. Animals need calm and confident owners. Remember that aggression can be learned; your pup can learn that if he acts aggressively, the things that scare him will go away. This means that his aggressive behaviour is rewarded, and will become more frequent.

MORE ON BEHAVIOUR

Reactivity

Reactivity is a reaction to something that makes a dog uncomfortable.  It always starts subtly and as signals are missed, ignored, or punished.  We then start to see behaviours that become a problem for us, like growling, snarling, lunging and biting.

Resource guarding (including food, toys, humans etc.)

All animals engage in defending their resources and resources come in a variety of forms. Some may make sense, others may not. It may also seem surprising to you that your dog may resource guard items because they have an abundance of things. Food, toys, you…..but resource guarding isn’t about things. It’s about feelings as R+Dogs explains it including:

  • The fear of losing out on something
  • The fear associated with not having any control
  • The fear that comes with intimidation (implied or unknowingly present)
  • The fear of the unknown
  • The fear of no escape
  • The fear of being unsafe

Resource guarding can also be linked to pain so please have your dog thoroughly checked for pain by your vet.

Trigger stacking – when the behaviour happens “out of the blue”

We’ve all experienced days when it feels like everything is going wrong and we’re left feeling overwhelmed, anxious, and ready to lash out at the next person who speaks to us. This person may think we have a serious attitude problem or need anger management when in reality, we’re just having a really bad day and don’t usually act this way. The same is true for dogs. Behaviours that appear out of the blue or are out of character can often be attributed to the stacking of different triggers.

A trigger can be anything that causes a dog to become overwhelmed and have a negative reaction. These can be small, seemingly insignificant things that we may not even notice, but they can add up and eventually lead to a reaction that is out of proportion to the stimulus. When the dog’s stress levels reach a certain point, the next event, no matter how small, can cause an unexpected reaction.

Examples include: Someone at the gate, the garbarge truck passing, strange man fixing the pool, someone on a bike passing, other dogs barking, a kid that hugs the dog etc. If this happens each on a consecutive days you likely avoid the stacking, but if it all occured in one day, they might “snap” with something simple due to stacking of triggers.

WHY PUNISHMENT IS NOT THE ANSWER!

Punishment is not the solution because it only suppresses the symptoms. Physical, punishment-based training is outdated. Such methods may include the use of choke chains, shock collars, or alpha rolls (physically rolling a dog onto the ground and holding him there) and hitting them.  While these methods peaked in popularity in the 1960s, the science of dog training has advanced significantly in the last 50 years and today’s reputable trainers/behaviourists overwhelmingly shun them in favour of positive reinforcement or reward-based conditioning. Remember punishment, whether physical or mental, can harm your pet.

Never punish a growl, which usually precedes the bite or snap action. This way they will learn from you that it is safer to skip the growl because you will punish it and then they bite “out of the blue”.  A growl is a way of communicating that they are not happy and that they need your help! No bite is “out of the blue!”

DO YOU THINK YOU HAVE AN AGGRESSIVE DOG

Image by Good Guardianship

WHAT CAN YOU DO?

You need an aggression-modifying action plan. A blanket approach can’t be followed for aggression and an evaluation by a qualified behaviourist, not just a dog trainer is important as well as addressing the individual needs of that animal if it is correctly identified as aggressive behaviour.

  • My first stop will always be to go for a vet check to rule out any underlying medical issue or pain.
  • Educate yourself about dog body language so you can be aware of your dog’s more subtle agonistic behaviours. Listen to what your pet is saying through their vocalizations or body language. TEMP – tails ears/eyes, mouth and posture. Also learn basic first-aid for pets in case of an emergency.
  • Find out what is the cause of aggression or stressors and stress levels. Look for subtle signs too. Avoid putting them in situations where they may be compelled to act aggressively and also to help them cope. Take steps to eliminate it from their life if possible. If it is something that can’t be removed, try to manage it by removing the dog from the environment when the stressor is present or re-directing your pet’s attention. If it is too difficult to be removed or managed, try to change their opinion of the stressor (gradually) through counter-conditioning or behaviour modification in the presence of the stressor. Redirect their attention or give them a job. Always stay calm!
  • Contact a behaviourist and make the time to follow the plan. Search for a behaviourist near you and ask for references. Remember that you need to look out for your pets, so if you feel uncomfortable with any trainer/behaviourist, then walk away and find someone else.  We only support fear-free reward-based training methods.  You can follow R+Dogs more on aggression and reactivity.
DO YOU THINK YOU HAVE AN AGGRESSIVE DOG

Image by Dr. Karen Becker

  • Become a calm-confident guardian by setting rules and boundaries and being consistent.
  • Meet all their needs physically and emotionally through species-appropriate enrichment.
  • Never force affection and let them come to you.

This only includes the basics and each situation must be assessed by a qualified behaviourist and an individual plan needs to be formulated to help the particular animal cope.

Many people wait too long before getting help for their dogs. Invest in learning about body language so you can help your pet to better navigate this human world they were forced into. They are your responsibility and just as most won’t dump their angry child on an already overwhelmed welfare system, you shouldn’t give up on the animals in your care because you are not meeting their needs or understanding their behaviour.

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin

Do you have a digging dog in your garden?

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Do you have a digging dog in your garden?

Image: Pixabay

Unearthing the thruth about dogs and their digging demeanor:
Dogs are some special creatures that we have domesticated for thousands of years. Even though they adapt well to living amongst humans, they still retain natural behaviour and digging is a very common one.  It is deeply ingrained in their genetic makeup and it also serves various purposes in the wild. While it may seem frustrating or destructive for their guardians in a domestic setting, understanding the underlying reasons behind this behaviour can help dog guardians better manage and address it. In this article, we will delve deeper into this natural behaviour and explore why these paws are in action!

Why do dogs dig?
Dogs dig for a variety of reasons, stemming from their ancestral roots and innate instincts. Here are some of the main reasons why dogs exhibit digging behaviour:

  • Instinctual Behaviour: Digging is a natural instinct for dogs that can be traced back to their wild ancestors. Wolves, from whom domestic dogs descended, dig dens for shelter, protection, and raising their young. This innate behaviour is deeply ingrained in their genetic makeup and can manifest in different ways. Digging may also be part of a nesting instinct, particularly if your dog is pregnant (hopefully she is spayed!).
  • Seeking Comfort: Dogs may dig to create a comfortable resting spot. By digging and rearranging the ground or bedding, they can create a cool or warm area to lie down in, depending on the weather. It allows them to regulate their body temperature and find a cosy spot to relax.
  • Hiding or Burying Possessions: Dogs often have a strong desire to bury their valued possessions, such as bones (this can be dangerous), toys, or treats. This behaviour mimics the ancestral behaviour of storing food for future consumption or hiding it from potential competitors. Digging and burying their prized items is an instinctual behaviour to protect and preserve their resources.
  • Escape or Exploration: Dogs may dig in an attempt to escape from an enclosed area or to explore the world beyond their immediate surroundings. They might be driven by curiosity, the desire for freedom, or even boredom. Digging provides an outlet for their natural curiosity and allows them to investigate scents and sounds that pique their interest.
  • Anxiety, Stress or Boredom: Some dogs may resort to digging as a coping mechanism for anxiety or stress. It can serve as a way to alleviate pent-up energy, frustration, or restlessness. Digging provides an outlet for their emotional state and can temporarily distract them from their worries.
  • Breed-Specific Traits: Certain dog breeds have a higher predisposition to digging due to their genetic background or specific roles they were bred for. Terriers, for example, were historically bred for hunting vermin, and their digging abilities were crucial in pursuing prey underground.
  • Maybe they just do it because it is fun!

Understanding the underlying motivations for a dog’s digging behaviour is essential in addressing and managing it effectively.

Do you have a digging dog in your garden?

Image: Pexels

Some breeds will dig more than others
While digging behaviour can vary from dog to dog, certain breeds are known to have a higher predisposition to digging due to their genetic background or historical roles. Here are a few breeds that are often associated with a propensity for digging:

Terriers: Terrier breeds, such as Jack Russell Terriers, Dachshunds, and Yorkshire Terriers, have a strong instinct to dig. They were originally bred for hunting small game, and their digging abilities were crucial for pursuing prey into burrows and dens.

Hounds: Some hound breeds, including Beagles and Basset Hounds, have a natural inclination to dig. This behaviour may stem from their history of tracking scents and pursuing game through different terrains.

Dachshunds: As small hunting dogs originally bred for tracking and retrieving game, Dachshunds have a keen sense of smell and an instinct to dig. Their long bodies and strong front paws make them particularly adept at digging and burrowing.

Siberian Huskies: While their digging behaviour is not as pronounced as some other breeds, they may dig when they are bored, attempting to escape, or seeking a cool spot to lie down.

Australian Terriers: Australian Terriers, known for their energetic and adventurous nature, tend to dig. They were initially bred to control vermin in Australian mines, and their digging skills were essential for their work.

Remember that individual dogs within these breeds may exhibit varying degrees of digging behaviour. Additionally, it’s important to note that digging behaviour is not limited to specific breeds and can be observed in dogs of any breed or mixed breed.

How can I manage digging behaviour
Your goal should never be to stop digging completely. It is a natural behaviour and all animals should have the freedom to display natural behaviour. If you’re looking to help your dog with digging behaviour, here are some strategies you can try:

  • Provide a designated digging area: Create a specific area in your yard where your dog is allowed to dig. This can be a designated sandbox or a specific spot filled with loose soil. Encourage your dog to use this area by burying toys or treats in it. Offer lots of praise when they’ve done so. Read more on sensory gardens for your pets and creating pet-friendly gardens. Remember that certain plants may be toxic to your animals and be very careful if you use any pesticides or chemicals in your yard.
  • Increase exercise and mental stimulation: Dogs that are bored or have excess energy may resort to digging as a form of entertainment or release. Ensure that your dog is getting enough physical exercise through daily walks, playtime, or engaging in activities like fetch. Additionally, provide mental stimulation through interactive toys, puzzle feeders, or training sessions to keep their minds occupied and reduce boredom.
  • Supervise and distract: Always intervene calmly. If you catch them digging in an “off-limits” area, call them to you (or go fetch them if they have a selective hearing) and immediately guide (redirect) them to an appropriate activity or engage them in play in the designated area to redirect their energy. Use a distraction technique such as a firm “no” to redirect their attention. Never punish your dog for digging a hole. Even if you bring your dog to the dig site, he won’t be able to associate his digging with the punishment. After a bit of practice, your dog will learn that digging is only permitted in this spot.
  • Ensure adequate space and enrichment: Dogs may dig out of frustration or a lack of mental stimulation. Make sure your dog has enough space to move around comfortably and explore. Provide them with toys, chew items, and interactive games to keep them engaged and entertained. Rotate toys regularly to maintain their interest.
  • Positive reinforcement and training: Use positive reinforcement to reward your dog for desired behaviour. When they dig in the designated area or engage in appropriate activities, praise and reward them with treats, verbal cues, or a favourite toy. Consistency is key in reinforcing positive behaviour and helping them understand what is expected of them. The whole family should be consistent in this.
  • Address underlying anxiety or stress: If your dog’s digging behaviour is driven by anxiety or stress, it’s important to address the underlying cause. Consult with a certified dog behaviourist (there is difference between trainer and behaviourist) or a veterinarian behaviourist to develop a behaviour modification plan. They can help you identify triggers and implement techniques to reduce your dog’s anxiety. Remember that behaviour doesn’t change overnight!
  • Provide a cool area: Some dogs dig until they reach a cool layer of earth in which to rest. For these dogs, make sure they have a cool spot to relax in the warmer months. Reward them for relaxing in this area by associating this area with relaxed eating, grooming and affection.

Remember, patience and consistency are crucial when modifying your dog’s behaviour. It’s important to provide alternative outlets for their natural instincts and reinforce positive behaviour while redirecting them away from inappropriate digging. By understanding their needs and providing appropriate guidance and stimulation, you can help curb excessive digging behaviour in your dog.

Secure your yard well with diggers

If you have diggers, then it is crucial to secure your yard better! It’s not worth the risk of your pet escaping by taking half-measures if your dog has begun digging under your fence. Either prevent your dog from having any unsupervised time in the yard or get serious about a dig-proof barrier. Some advice from Petology.

  • If they squeeze through or dig underneath your can buy or custom make metal dig-defence barriers with spikes, which goes deep into the ground.  If your fence is secure, but not your gate, consider a gate plate.
  • You can pour a concrete footer along the perimeter of the fence and bury/mount the bottom of the fence into the mixture.
  • Install an L-Footer/skirt/apron along the bottom of the fence, facing inwards.  You can use a wire mesh fence, hardware cloth or a piece of chain-link fence attached to the base of the fence.  Bury it so that it is not visible to the eye, or lay it on top of the grass and hold it down with pins/stakes, rocks, gravel, mulch or even planters.
Do you have a digging dog in your garden?

Image: Petology for DIGGERS, CHEWERS & SLIP THROUGH-ERS

In conclusion, digging is a natural behaviour for dogs that can be influenced by a variety of factors, including instinct, comfort-seeking, territorial instincts, curiosity, and anxiety. While it may be frustrating or destructive in a domestic setting, understanding the reasons behind this behaviour can help you address it effectively. By providing appropriate outlets for your dog’s digging instincts, such as designated digging areas, increasing exercise and mental stimulation, supervising and redirecting their behaviour, and addressing any underlying anxiety or stress, you can help manage and reduce excessive digging.

With time, effort, and understanding, you can help your dog find more appropriate ways to satisfy their natural instincts and create a harmonious and happier environment for both you and your canine excavator!

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin

Does your dog seem aggressive?

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Aggressive

Pixabay

Does your dog seem aggressive?

Animals being aggressive is a complex behaviour and should be identified correctly and addressed immediately by qualified individuals!

Aggressive behaviour is probably the most common behavioural problem in dogs seen by behaviour professionals and the most dangerous one seen in companion dogs. Behaviour is one of the most common reasons why people surrender animals to shelters, especially dogs, and aggression is one of them although many behaviours that people perceive as aggressive are actually normal forms of communication.

As the Whole Dog Journal shares: “The broad spectrum of “aggressive behaviours” is technically called “agonistic behaviours” and is defined in ethology as, “pertaining to the range of activities associated with aggressive encounters between members of the same species or social group, including threat, attack, appeasement, or retreat.” So, while a growl-lunge-bite sequence would be easily recognized by most people as aggression, more subtle agonistic behaviours such as a freeze, a hard stare, or even a lack of eye contact, may go unnoticed (and unaddressed)”. The lack of understanding of basic and normal animal behaviour remains part of the problem!

Another part of the problem is also that there has been a cultural shift about dog aggression. I agree with Patt Miller that our culture has become over-sensitized to dog bites.  In the past, if a child was bitten by a neighbour’s dog, the mother would usually question the child about what they did to provoke the animal. Nowadays, however, the first response is to contact a lawyer or a behaviour specialist (less likely), or even take the dog to a shelter. We have become a society that is increasingly fearful of aggression.

This is a republication from 15 March 2023.

Aggressive

Images by R+Dogs

Some factors that may contribute to dog aggression
Aggression in animals can be caused by a variety of factors, such as fear, excess energy, self-defence, or pain and physical discomfort for example.

  1. Lack of Socialization: Dogs that are not properly socialized may become aggressive when they encounter unfamiliar people or animals. Pups learn valuable information about behaviour from their mom/dad.  If they are removed before 10-12 weeks, then this could affect their future behaviour negatively too.  
  2. Fear: Dogs may become aggressive when they feel threatened or scared which is a normal response for us as humans too. “Aggressive” behaviour when defending themselves or a mom protecting her puppies are also examples.
  3. Pain: Dogs in pain may become aggressive as a way to protect themselves.
  4. Dominance: Dogs may become aggressive in an attempt to establish dominance over other animals or people. Whether people believe it or not, animals do establish hierarchy and what appears to be aggressive behaviour might be part of that, although possibly normal. Sometimes just the company of other dogs may be stressful to your dog which may lead to “aggressive” behaviour.
  5. Breed genetics: Some breeds of dogs might be predisposed to aggression and bad breeding practices have certainly contributed to this. All dogs can bite, but some may do more damage than others. Aggression can’t be blamed on the breed.  The breed of a dog can tell you what they can do, but how they are raised and cared for, determines what they will do.  I believe dog bites are 100% preventable and understanding body language is key to prevention.
  6. Hormones: An earlier study showed that dogs with high levels of the hormone vasopressin may be more aggressive than dogs with lower levels; higher levels of oxytocin (the “love hormone”) and higher oxytocin-to-vasopressin levels are seen in the breeds least likely to behave aggressively. Hormone levels when a bitch is in heat may contribute to “aggressive” behaviour for both her and males. One of the many reasons we support spay & neuter.
  7. Your response: The owner’s prior experience with dogs can contribute to or reinforce certain behaviours and when you panic it may worsen the situation. Animals need calm and confident owners. Remember that aggression can be learned; your pup can learn that if he acts aggressively, the things that scare him will go away. This means that his aggressive behaviour is rewarded, and will become more frequent.

More on behaviour:

Reactivity

Reactivity is a reaction to something that makes a dog uncomfortable.  It always starts subtly and as signals are missed, ignored, or punished.  We then start to see behaviours that become a problem for us, like growling, snarling, lunging and biting.

Resource guarding (including food, toys, humans etc.)

All animals engage in defending their resources and resources come in a variety of forms. Some may make sense, others may not. It may also seem surprising to you that your dog may resource guard items because they have an abundance of things. Food, toys, you…..but resource guarding isn’t about things. It’s about feelings as R+Dogs explains it, including:

  • The fear of losing out on something.
  • The fear associated with not having any control.
  • The fear that comes with intimidation (implied or unknowingly present).
  • The fear of the unknown.
  • The fear of no escape.
  • The fear of being unsafe.

Resource guarding can also be linked to pain so please have your dog thoroughly checked for pain by your vet.

Trigger stacking – when the behaviour happens “out of the blue”

We’ve all experienced days when it feels like everything is going wrong and we’re left feeling overwhelmed, anxious, and ready to lash out at the next person who speaks to us. This person may think we have a serious attitude problem or need anger management when in reality, we’re just having a really bad day and don’t usually act this way. The same is true for dogs. Behaviours that appear out of the blue or are out of character can often be attributed to the stacking of different triggers.

A trigger can be anything that causes a dog to become overwhelmed and have a negative reaction. These can be small, seemingly insignificant things that we may not even notice, but they can add up and eventually lead to a reaction that is out of proportion to the stimulus. When the dog’s stress levels reach a certain point, the next event, no matter how small, can cause an unexpected reaction.

Examples include: Someone at the gate, the garbarge truck passing, strange man fixing the pool, someone on a bike passing, other dogs barking, a kid that hugs the dog etc. If this happens each on a consecutive days you likely avoid the stacking, but if it all occured in one day, they might “snap” with something simple due to stacking of triggers.

Aggressive

Image by Good Guardianship

Why punishment is not the answer!
Punishment is not the solution because it only suppresses the symptoms. Physical, punishment-based training is outdated. Such methods may include the use of choke chains, shock collars, or alpha rolls (physically rolling a dog onto the ground and holding him there) and hitting them.  While these methods peaked in popularity in the 1960s, the science of dog training has advanced significantly in the last 50 years and today’s reputable trainers/behaviourists overwhelmingly shun them in favour of positive reinforcement or reward-based conditioning. Remember punishment, whether physical or mental, can harm your pet.

Never punish a growl, which usually precedes the bite or snap action. This way they will learn from you that it is safer to skip the growl because you will punish it and then they bite “out of the blue”.  A growl is a way of communicating that they are not happy and that they need your help! No bite is “out of the blue!”

What you can do?
You need an aggression-modifying action plan. A blanket approach can’t be followed for aggression and an evaluation by a qualified behaviourist, not just a dog trainer is important as well as addressing the individual needs of that animal if it is correctly identified as aggressive behaviour.

  • My first stop will always be to go for a vet check to rule out any underlying medical issue or pain.
  • Educate yourself about dog body language so you can be aware of your dog’s more subtle agonistic behaviours. Listen to what your pet is saying through their vocalizations or body language. TEMP – tails ears/eyes, mouth and posture. Also learn basic first-aid for pets in case of an emergency.
  • Find out what is the cause of aggression or stressors and stress levels. Look for subtle signs too. Avoid putting them in situations where they may be compelled to act aggressively and also to help them cope. Take steps to eliminate it from their life if possible. If it is something that can’t be removed, try to manage it by removing the dog from the environment when the stressor is present or re-directing your pet’s attention. If it is too difficult to be removed or managed, try to change their opinion of the stressor (gradually) through counter-conditioning or behaviour modification in the presence of the stressor. Redirect their attention or give them a job. Always stay calm!
  • Contact a behaviourist and make the time to follow the plan. Search for a behaviourist near you and ask for references. Remember that you need to look out for your pets, so if you feel uncomfortable with any trainer/behaviourist, then walk away and find someone else.  We only support fear-free reward-based training methods.  You can follow R+Dogs more on aggression and reactivity.
Aggressive

Image by Dr. Karen Becker

  • Become a calm-confident guardian by setting rules and boundaries and being consistent.
  • Meet all their needs physically and emotionally through species-appropriate enrichment.
  • Never force affection and let them come to you.

This only includes the basics and each situation must be assessed by a qualified behaviourist and an individual plan needs to be formulated to help the particular animal cope.

Many people wait too long before getting help for their dogs. Invest in learning about body language so you can help your pet to better navigate this human world they were forced into. They are your responsibility and just as most won’t dump their angry child on an already overwhelmed welfare system, you shouldn’t give up on the animals in your care because you are not meeting their needs or understanding their behaviour.

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Disclaimer:  I am not a behaviourist although I research these topics. 

Source: The bulletin

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See any of these signs? Better not ignore them!

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signs

Pixabay

See any of these signs? Better not ignore them!

We so often hear families say, “if only we knew what to look for”, if you notice warning signs or changes in your dog, it may indicate something more serious is going on. Mittens and Max had a piece indicating 5 warning signs that we thought was worth a share.

  1. Heavy Panting: we all know what heavy panting looks like, often this will stop once your dog has cooled down a little bit, but if your dog is experiencing deeper laboured breathing that lasts longer than normal, this could be an indication of our dog or cat being in pain or that they are suffering from heatstroke. This could however also be a sign that something more serious is going on, like poisoning, heart failure, Cushing’s disease, pneumonia or even lung tumours.
  2. Drooling: Now, with the bulldog breed, drool is something we are all pretty used to. But if you know your dog you will soon see if excessive drooling is taking place. This may be another indication of heatstroke, but it can also indicate dental issues like a tooth abscess. It could also be an indication that your dog has chewed something poisonous, or something that irritates or burns the mouth, neurologic problems can also cause your dog to drool excessively. If this continues, please see a vet.
  3. Increase in water consumption: When a dog drinks excessive amounts of water, it may indicate that they ae in kidney failure, or it could be a sign of diabetes, Cushing’s disease, or even pyometra in an unspayed female, more uncommonly it could also be a sign of Psychogenic polydipsia. This is definitely something noteworthy to your vet.
  4. Behavioural changes: this is something you can quickly notice if you really know your dog well. This can be linked to pain, thyroid dysfunction in dogs, hyperthyroidism in cats, and other medical conditions like pancreatitis, cancer, arthritis, parasites, skin allergies, heart disease or pain from injury.
  5. Odor changes: Every Bulldog owner out there will agree that the one thing Bulldogs are truly known for, is their ability to stink you out of your own bed. While you may be used to your dog producing malodorous gas regularly, a change in the intensity of the smell can indicate gastrointestinal disease.

Ultimately it is of utmost importance to have the kind of relationship with your pet to be able to notice these signs early, in fact the earlier the better.

Note them to your vet, even if you think it may insignificant.
You never know, it could make the world of difference in diagnosing your pet.

Source: English & French Bulldog Rescue