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Planning To Get A Parrot Or Have One?

Planning To Get A Parrot Or Have One?

Image: Pixabay

Advice for current or prospective parrot parents.
Parrots, especially African Grey parrots are popular pets, but unfortunately, many owners don’t realize the extreme level of care these highly intelligent, high-maintenance birds require.

The combination of their high intelligence and their long life expectancy makes them one of the highest maintenance pets on the planet. Adding inexperienced owners to the mix often results in a long list of behavioural problems, health concerns and unhappiness for both parrot and owner. These animals can easily change homes 6-7 times in their lifetime. The number of surrendered and abandoned birds are sky-high worldwide. Through education and awareness, we want to help change that.

Although we do not support exotic and wild animals as pets, or keeping them in cages, many are captive and that is why it is important to make sure you are ready and realistic about owning a parrot. They are beautiful, adorable and very smart, but they are also:

  • Noisy
  • Messy
  • Require expensive care
  • Need lots of time & energy
  • Demanding
  • Still needs grooming
  • Vet care is specialized
  • Destructive
  • Not ideal for kids
  • Become very old (60+)

“Parrots are commonly presented, at veterinary clinics, for feather-destructive behaviour, aggression, inappropriate noise making and/or excessive vocalization, and other behaviour problems — usually more so than for medical illnesses,” writes avian veterinarian Dr. Anthony Pilny.
Two absolute essentials for caring for parrots in captivity are access to an avian veterinarian & a minimum of 4 hours each day spent in human-bird interaction. Other fundamentals include a big monthly bird budget & a cage that is the right size, properly accessorized and well-maintained; and a species-appropriate, healthy diet.

He suggests the following:

  • You need an avian vet.  Parrots aren’t chickens or small mammals. They have a unique physiology that exotic animal vets are well versed in navigating. Avian veterinarians are better equipped than general small animal vets to diagnose exotics, as well as to understand and interpret behaviour problems and recommend appropriate treatment, enrichment methods, and behaviour counseling.
  • Owners and potential owners of parrots need to be thoroughly educated by avian veterinarians and other knowledgeable sources about the parrots’ needs so they know what to expect and how to meet the birds’ requirements in captivity.
  • The high cognitive ability of parrots should be considered in their captive husbandry as a contributing factor to developing behaviour concerns. If you’re considering a parrot as a pet, you should be prepared to spend almost the same amount and quality of time with your bird as you would a highly interactive, bright, inquisitive pre-schooler.
    FIVE MUST-HAVES FOR CARING FOR PARROTS
Planning to get a parrot

Image from Dr. Karen Becker

  1. THE CAGE
  • An appropriately sized cage that is cozy (draft-free) and located in a safe, low-stress but social area. Your bird’s cage should be big enough for her to spread her wings and flap vigorously without contacting anything. Even better when they can fly in their cage. Remember birds fly more horizontally, so consider this when you buy a cage.
  • It should have a variety of natural branch perches (not dowels) and contain several shreddable toys, for example, balsa wood, woven mat toys, paper-stuffed toys, nontoxic enrichment “goodie bags,” and organic hemp rope toys for chewing. A huge variety of organic, all-natural, chemical-free toys are critical, as parrots’ mouths are used as a third hand, so an ongoing supply of safe, nontoxic instantly shreddable, as well as a few resilient or reusable chew toys, are a must.
  • He recommends replacing the disposable chews at least daily and rotating the more resilient toys at least twice a week, ideally daily. Always introduce new toys slowly, attaching them to the outside of the cage for a few days first, so your parrot can investigate at his own pace.
  • The cage should be cleaned daily with a nontoxic cleaner. His recommendation is diluted vinegar. The cage floor should be lined with newspaper that is discarded daily. All loose material (feathers, leftover feed, bird poop) should be carefully disposed of before disinfecting cage surfaces. Birds should be removed from the area during the disinfecting process to protect them from fumes.
  1. DIET – Feed a high-quality diet of species-appropriate fresh foods including fruits, vegetables, sprouted seeds, whole nuts and sprouted grains. Organic, dye-free commercial pelleted food (not poor-quality sunflower seed mix, which is the equivalent of junk food for most exotic birds) can also be offered.
  1. BATHS – Parrots can get dusty, so regular bathing opportunities are important. Many parrots love baths; some will splash around in a tub of shallow water; others will join their owners in the shower and others enjoy a gentle spray from a plant mister. Use filtered water, free from heavy metals and contaminants, and consider adding a flower essence if your bird is stressed.
  1. MONEY – Beyond the initial expense of acquiring a parrot, owners should plan to spend a lot of money a month on wholesome fresh food, destructible toys, and other supplies. Also an emergency fund or pet medical aid.
  2. TIME – Just because birds live in cages doesn’t mean they are easy pets to care for. You can’t just pop your parrot into his cage and ignore him except at feeding time. Be prepared to spend a great deal of time interacting with them. Potential owners of parrots should be ready, willing, and able to commit at least 4 hours a day to human-bird contact. This will disqualify many potential owners immediately.

Birds need chemical-free environments to be healthy. Consider the dangers or effects of:

  • Tap water
  • Home scenting products
  • Kitchen cookware
  • Fireplaces and smokers
  • Home cleaning products
  • Air purification

Please think twice and again before committing and if you do…..ALWAYS ADOPT! We will fight not until cages are comfortable, but until they are empty!

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin
Website: www.thebulletin.co.za

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What If My Cat Doesn’t Want To Eat?

WHat if my cat doesnt want to eat?

How you can encourage a reluctant eater.
Last week we looked at some tips for when your cat is reluctant to drink and today we will look at some tips for reluctant eaters.  Cats’ ancestral diet was moisture-rich prey which helps meet their fluid requirements, so feeding your cat dry food only, which is <10% water, can create a problem.  It can cause chronic dehydration, leading to constipation and kidney stress, which is why vets recommend feeding cats moisture-rich diets. One of the first signs that a feline family member is sick is a lack of appetite. Cats can’t go without food for very long due to the risk of hepatic lipidosis, so it’s important to address the problem quickly.

TWO MAIN REASONS WHY YOUR CAT MIGHT NOT BE EATING.

  1. STRESS

Cats who are stressed can lose their appetite. Has something in your cat’s life changed?

  • New family members (human or animal)?
  • Have you moved?
  • Sometimes it can be too few resources or the placement thereof. We suggest a water and food bowl for each cat plus an extra one, as well as with the litter box and neither the bowls or the litter box should be placed close to the other.

This is a situation pet parents can often resolve without consulting a veterinarian.

2. UNDERLYING ILLNESS

Several underlying diseases can cause kitties to lose interest in eating and it’s important to contact your veterinarian right away if you suspect your cat is ill. Remember not all vets are good with cats, so find one with a special interests in cats.

TIPS TO TEMPT KITTY’S TASTEBUDS (Dr. Karen Becker & The Cat Nurse)
There are things you can do to try to entice your cat to eat; however, veterinary intervention is necessary if, despite your best efforts, your cat isn’t eating. Helping a cat who is refusing to eat stay nourished is an exercise in creativity, gentle prodding, and patience.

  • Warm her meals to bring out the aroma as cats respond to the smell of food before the taste.
  • Lure her with species-appropriate “people food” she has enjoyed in the past, for example, warm baked chicken or salmon.
  • Offer her canned food with a strong smell or a sardine (packed in water).
  • Buy a small selection of different flavours and textures of canned cat food or use home-cooked meat or bone broth and see if one catches her interest.
  • If she’s hooked on kibble and refuses everything else, try adding warm water to the food or an aromatic enticement like tuna juice or chicken broth.
  • Double bowls tend to be small, quite deep and are of course joined together, which could risk aggravating your cat’s sensitive whiskers. Try using a large flat bowl that gives plenty of room for your cat’s whiskers. Offer new food from a paper plate (in case she associates a bad memory with her food bowl). Whisker fatigue plays a role if the bowl is too small or deep.
  • If you are changing your cat’s food bowl, offer food in the old bowl and original location as well as using the new bowl and in a slightly different location. This allows your cat to have a choice. You can then remove the old bowl once your cat starts using the new one.
  • Raised bowls can help encourage some cats to eat. This means that your cat doesn’t have to dip its head down into the bowl to eat or drink, meaning he/she can still keep watch for any threats. Consider raising the bowl, especially if your cat is elderly and/or has arthritis as it may be more comfortable for your cat to eat that way (less pressure on its joints and less flexion of the neck). 
  • Consider offering food in ceramic or glass bowls. Plastic holds odours and metal is reflective.
  • Keep the food and water stations separate. Being survivalists, cats like to eat in one place and drink in another. Cats living in the wild do this to prevent food (blood and tissue from prey) from contaminating their water (a sick cat is a vulnerable cat) and because it helps to keep the location of their food (and them) a secret.

STILL NOT EATING?
If despite your best efforts you can’t get sufficient calories into your cat, call your veterinarian, who may prescribe an appetite stimulant, a homeopathic remedy, or a vitamin B12 injection.

5 TIPS FOR STRESS-FREE FELINE DINING IN GENERAL (Dr. Karen Becker)

  • Offer food in a variety of ways that gives your cat more control over her environment. When possible, feed smaller, frequent meals throughout the day, instead of two larger meals. Use food puzzles, hunting feeders, or other novel methods that encourage her to actively look for food and burn calories in the process.
  • In a multi-cat household, feed everyone separately. Establish multiple feeding locations that provide solitary access to food. Food puzzles, hunting feeders and regular bowls/saucers containing small amounts of food can be placed in different spots around the house to help satisfy the natural feline desire to dine in different locations. It also encourages cats to spend time hunting for food and allows them to be in control of their food intake.
  • If feasible, feed your kitty from an elevated location, since cats tend to feel safer in high spots where they can see what’s going on around them. These platforms should only be large enough for one cat. Do not put their bowls in a corner as they feel safer when they can view the area for threats, as in nature.
  • Try to place your cat’s food in areas with minimal human activity and away from loud noises and visual threats like a window where your kitty might catch a glimpse of another cat outside.
  • Put food in locations that encourage climbing and set aside time to play with your cat each day, which will provide him with both physical and mental stimulation.

CHECK THE POOP
It sounds weird to some, but it is important to regularly check their poop as it can indicate health concerns. Watch this video about it. Urine is discussed with drinking in last weeks’ article.

Keep your cat healthy and fed by following these tips.   Next week we will look at post-operative care for your pet.

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin
Website: www.thebulletin.co.za

Need a Vet?
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Mastering the art of dog walks

dog

Mastering the art of dog walks

Optimize dog walks for you and your dog with these essential tips.

Walks are essential for the well-being of canine companions and when done correctly, with the right attitude, they can also be very beneficial for us. It is a commitment responsible pet parents make.

Walks are an opportunity for dogs to:

  1. Relieve themselves.
  2. Move their bodies and get exercise.
  3. Get fresh air.
  4. Help with weight control.
  5. Reduce anxiety, boredom, and depression.
  6. Interacting with their environment and “earthing”.
  7. Socialize with other humans and dogs.
  8. Strengthen their bond with you.

The truth is that most dogs don’t get nearly the amount of exercise they need, resulting in many canine companions becoming obese. Pet guardianship means committing to keep your pet healthy and moving, rain or shine (or snow).  Keep in mind, that for most dogs, a walk is great, however, they need at least three days of 20-minute plus heart-pumping exercise per week, which will likely be achieved more by fast activities or running, rather than walking. 

Set the stage for a lifetime of good walks for you and your canine companion!

  1. Get the right gear for your dog’s needs and get them used to it.
  2. Train your dog to follow loose lead and reduce your dog’s urge to pull.
  3. Explore the different types of walks and make it fun.
  4. Be mindful of the common mistakes we can make when going for walks.
  5. Take safety precautions.

dog

1. THE RIGHT GEAR

Investing in quality gear, not only enhances safety but also makes walks more enjoyable for both you and your furry companion. Start young/early and slowly. They should be accustomed to wearing the gear before you attempt to take them for walks.

HARNESS, COLLAR, AND LEAD

For your dog, a well-fitting harness or collar is crucial, as it provides comfort and control while minimizing the risk of injury. A sturdy leash, preferably one with a comfortable handle and appropriate length, allows you to maintain control and guide your dog effectively. Even if off-leash, always pack their harness and leash and include an ID tag.

Every dog should have their own secure-fitting flat collar (no choke or pinch collars, please) and an ID tag.

I always advocate for a Y-harness as collars may cause injury to the neck and soft tissue. However, a harness won’t work if your dog does not have loose lead walking skills or training. In a dog’s forward movement, a harness with a ribbon crossing their chest from side to side hinders them, in the same way humans would be bothered hiking with a rubber band holding their arms. Physiological movement of the front limb is inhibited.  Check out this video on the harness and read more on The Paw Company’s page, by searching harness.

I prefer a strong lead of about 1.5 m and advise against retractable leashes as they are more prone to create injury and be a safety hazard, they break, and you have less control.

Make sure your ID tags are legible and have updated contact numbers on.

Other gear may include:

  • Muzzles are not only for aggressive dogs as they can also be used for those dogs who like to eat anything on the road. Muzzle training is important for emergencies too.
  • Reflective gear for both of you if you walk during darker hours.
  • Wear comfortable, supportive shoes yourself and weather-appropriate clothing to stay dry and protected.
  • Consider carrying essentials such as water, waste bags, and a first-aid kit for unexpected situations.
dog dog

2. TRAINING TO WALK

Here are some walk-training tips from Dr. Karen Becker.

Training Your Dog to Follow on a Loose Lead

Initial walks should be short for most puppies — the main goal is to get your dog used to being attached to you by a lead. Find a safe environment and allow the puppy to drag the line behind him for a bit, then pick up the opposite end. Let him lead you around for a few seconds while you hold the line just off the ground. Slow down so he’s forced to slow down, ultimately to a stop. Take a short break for praise and a little playtime.

Next, let him trail the line again, but when you pick up your end this time, call him and stand still. If he pulls, hold your ground without pulling him in your direction. The goal is to teach him to put slack in the line himself by moving toward you. When he puts slack in the line, praise him and call him to you.

If he comes all the way to you, give him more praise and a training treat. If he stops on his way to you, tighten the line just enough to apply a tiny bit of pull to it. Immediately call him to come again. Give praise as he moves toward you and treats when he comes all the way back. Two or three repetitions is all many puppies need to understand lack of tension in the line is what earns praise and treats.

When your pup has learned to come towards you to relieve tension on the line, you can begin backing up as he comes toward you to keep him moving. Next, turn and walk forward so he’s following you. If he passes you, head in another direction so he’s again behind you.

The goal is to teach him to follow on a loose lead. Once you’ve accomplished the goal, you can continue to use the light line or replace it with a leash.

Depending on your pup’s temperament, 5 to 15-minute sessions are sufficient in the beginning. Practice controlling him on the lead for 30-second intervals during each session. Exercise patience and don’t engage in a battle of wills with your pup. Don’t snap, yank, or otherwise use the line for correction or punishment. Stop before either of you gets frustrated or tired.

After each short session on the lead, liberally praise your puppy and spend a few minutes playing fetch or some other game he loves. Remember: you’re building the foundation for an activity both you and he will enjoy and look forward to throughout his life.

Reducing Your Dog’s Urge to Pull

Dogs pull for various reasons including but not limited to:

  • It is unnatural to be attached to a leash. They are not meant to walk like robots next to us.
  • They move faster than us and by pulling their human moves forward.
  • Excitement.

It is unrealistic to expect them to never pull!

If your little guy or girl just doesn’t seem to be catching on to the loose lead thing, don’t despair. Some puppies and untrained adult dogs stubbornly fight the “pressure of the line” rather than create slack.

If your puppy freezes on a taut line or consistently pulls against it, it’s important to use a halter or harness rather than a collar attached to the lead, because she can create serious neck and cervical disk problems for herself by pulling against a collar/leash combination.

Next, make sure you’re not part of the problem. Our human instinct is to hold the leash taut, so you must also train yourself to move in ways that keep slack in the line. A dog’s natural response to a tight line is to pull against it. Once you’re sure you’re not contributing to your pup’s refusal to create slack in the lead or move toward you, do the following:

  • Maintain tension on the line and turn your back to her. Allow time for it to occur to her she can’t win by pulling against you.
  • Remain still with your back to her holding the tension in the line — don’t jerk it, don’t pull, or yank her toward you, and don’t put slack in the line yourself, as this will show her that the way to get slack is to pull at the line, which is exactly the opposite of what you’re trying to teach her.

The message you want to send to your pup is that pulling on the lead doesn’t accomplish a thing. It doesn’t change the scenery, it doesn’t get you moving in a direction she chooses, and it doesn’t earn praise or treats. Eventually, she’ll stop doing what doesn’t work, especially when she’s consistently rewarded for desirable behaviour.

From the very first moment you begin leash training, make sure your puppy accomplishes nothing by pulling on her line. It takes some dogs longer than others to learn to keep the leash loose, but with patience and persistence, any puppy can learn to follow a loose lead.

dog

DIFFERENT KINDS OF WALKS 

I have learned a lot about the different kinds of walks from Dr. Karen Becker. Here is what shes shares:

Once your furry companion has acquired good leash manners and both of you look forward to your walks each day, consider changing up the routine to keep things fresh and fun.

  1. Purposeful walks — These are typically short and have a specific goal, for example, walking your dog to her potty spot.
  2. Training walks — These walks can be about improving leash manners and learning basic or advanced obedience commands. Remember to take some healthy training treats.
  3. Mentally stimulating walks — Most leashed dogs don’t get to spend nearly as much time sniffing and investigating as they would like, so allowing your pet some time to explore is good mental stimulation for her.
  4. Sniffaris — During these mentally stimulating walks, your dog takes the lead, you follow, and he gets to sniff whatever he pleases.
  5. Power walks — Power walks keep your dog’s frame strong, and his weight in check, and help alleviate arthritis and other degenerative joint diseases. These walks can also be an essential method for ensuring your dog gets enough exercise. Your dog may be pumped up after such a walk, so prepping some post-walk-enrichment (like a food toy, licking, etc.) can help them wind down.
  6. Walks with friends — If your dog is comfortable around other dogs, consider meeting up with neighbours or friends with dogs for social group walks.
  7. Different dog-walker walks — Everyone walks a dog a little differently, so the more members of your household who walk your dog, the more variety she’ll enjoy.
  8. Change-of-scenery walks — Instead of heading outside in the same old direction, instead, buckle your dog in and drive a few blocks away or to a neighbourhood park or nearby hiking trail for your walk.
  9. Decompression walks – The idea is to reduce the dog’s stress and anxiety by providing a calm and controlled environment where they can use their natural behaviours. These walks often involve a slower pace and a focus on allowing the dog to make choices about where to go and what to explore, rather than following a strict route or pace.

dog

dog

ALTERNATIVES FOR REACTIVE DOGS

When you do suburban walking, the other dogs barking, are not them “saying hello”, it is more like “death threats”. For reactive and anxious dogs this won’t be beneficial. For some guardians, walks then become stressful too. In such cases, it may do more harm than good, to commit to that walk.

Ways to improve the walk for a reactive dog (R+Dogs):

  • Avoid the triggers (still work on them later)
  • Let them sniff more
  • Build their confidence
  • Skip the walk
  • Get professional help

Here are some alternatives for physical and mental stimulation:

  • Active games
  • Dog puzzles and toys
  • Dog play dates
  • Online training (for you)
  • Scent work where you hide things for them to find in your home or yard
  • Obstacle course in your yard

AbsoluteDOGS has a game for everything!

dog

4. COMMON DOG WALKING MISTAKES

  • Ignoring your dog or multi-tasking — Unfortunately, there are pet parents who do everything but, pay attention to their dogs during walks. The activity becomes so routine that they do it without giving much thought to the furry fellow at the other end of the leash. This is a bad habit primarily because of the danger of what your dog can get up to if you are not looking.
  • Not allowing sniff time — Your dog’s most acute sense is their sense of smell. Remember that dogs perceive their world in a big way through scent. It is important to allow them to sniff during walks.
  • Choosing the wrong type of collar, harness, or leash — Many pet parents don’t realize the importance of choosing the right type for their dog.
  • Not taking advantage of the different types of walks, mentioned above, to keep things interesting for both of you.

5. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Here are some safety precautions to take:

  • Pack a mini first aid kit.
  • Take water for you and your canine companion.
  • Keep them hydrated and prevent them from drinking contaminated water.
  • Wear visible gear so the public can see you and reflective gear if you are walking during darker hours.
  • Watch out for dog snatchers who follow your walking routines as well as any other hazards.
  • Do not let young children or the elderly walk animals alone.
  • Go at their pace.
  • Protect their paws.
  • Puppy precautions.
  • Microchip and ID tags.

Let’s elaborate on a few:

Protect their paws – To protect your dog’s paws while walking, ensure you avoid hot pavement or rough terrain that can cause burns or abrasions. Before the walk, test the road/tar/ground temperature. If you can’t keep the back of your hand on the ground for 5 seconds then it is too hot for their paws!Opt for early morning or late evening walks when the ground is cooler, and consider using dog booties to shield their paws from very harsh surfaces if neccesary.

Regularly check their paws for signs of injury or irritation, and keep their nails trimmed to prevent discomfort. Additionally, applying a paw balm can help moisturize and protect their pads from drying out or cracking. I also do a paw-soak after walks with filter water and apple cider vinegar. Taking these precautions can keep your dog’s paws healthy and comfortable during walks.

Puppies – Discuss with your veterinarian when your puppy’s immune system is strong enough to go for walks. This is usually after they had all their initial vaccinations. Also, discuss with your vet when running and jumping will be appropriate for your puppy, when we look at bone growth.

Microchip and ID tags – Make sure your dog is microchipped and registered on multiple databases as well as wearing an ID tag.

KEEP IN MIND

  • If you are having trouble with the walk, get professional help. This could be a trainer if your pet just never learned to walk on a leash properly or a behaviourist if there are other underlying issues like anxiety or reactivity.
  • Leash manners are important, even with the right gear.
  • Sterilized dogs will likely be less distracted or distracting for other dogs.
  • Although walking is a great activity, some breeds might not be getting enough exercise for cardiovascular health through just a walk. For others, you might have to start slower for shorter distances. Remember to take precautions when running. Start slow, go at their pace, and be cautious with growing dogs, old dogs, and those from certain breeds or with certain conditions.
  • When going for hikes, make sure your pet is up for it, you have enough water, the trail is dog-friendly and never let your dog chase any wildlife.

dog

Yellow ribbon – Be mindful of fellow walkers. Never allow your dog to just approach another dog, even if they are friendly, and especially not when that dog is on a leash because they might be fearful, reactive, aggressive, in pain, not child-friendly, in training or recovering from an operation. The yellow ribbon on a dog’s collar or leash is a sign to other people, that the dog needs some space and that you need to proceed with caution. Never take away another dog or their owner’s choice to interact or not. Always ask permission from the owner and most importantly from the dog.  Help us spread the world on this!

The most important thing you can do to ensure a lifetime of enjoyable walks with your canine companion is to help them learn to be the perfect walking partner and be one too. As Dr. Karen Becker says: “One of the most important gifts you can give your dog whenever you interact with him, including on walks, is your undivided attention.”

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin – Animal 101

Planning to Get a Parrot or Have One?

parrot

Planning to Get a Parrot or Have One?

Advice for current or prospective parrot parents.

Parrots, especially African Grey parrots are popular pets, but unfortunately, many owners don’t realize the extreme level of care these highly intelligent, high-maintenance birds require.

The combination of their high intelligence and their long life expectancy makes them one of the highest maintenance pets on the planet. Adding inexperienced owners to the mix often results in a long list of behavioural problems, health concerns, and unhappiness for both the parrot and the owner. These animals can easily change homes 6-7 times in their lifetime. The number of surrendered and abandoned birds is sky-high worldwide. Through education and awareness, we want to help change that.

Although we do not support exotic and wild animals as pets, or keeping them in cages, many are captive and that is why it is important to make sure you are ready and realistic about owning a parrot. They are beautiful, adorable, and very smart, but they are also:

  • Noisy
  • Messy
  • Require expensive care
  • Need lots of time & energy
  • Demanding
  • Still needs grooming
  • Vet care is specialized
  • Destructive
  • Not ideal for kids
  • Become very old (60+)

“Parrots are commonly presented at veterinary clinics for feather-destructive behaviour, aggression, inappropriate noise making and/or excessive vocalization, and other behaviour problems — usually more so than for medical illnesses,” says avian veterinarian Dr. Anthony Pilny.

parrot

Editor’s note: This article is a reprint from 2 June 2022.

Two absolute essentials for caring for parrots in captivity are access to an avian veterinarian and a minimum of 4 hours each day spent in human-bird interaction. Other fundamentals include a big monthly bird budget, a cage that is the right size, properly accessorized, and well-maintained, and a species-appropriate, healthy diet.

He suggests the following:

  • You need an avian vet.  Parrots aren’t chickens or small mammals. They have a unique physiology that exotic animal vets are well versed in navigating. Avian veterinarians are better equipped than general small animal vets to diagnose exotics, as well as to understand and interpret behaviour problems and recommend appropriate treatment, enrichment methods, and behaviour counseling.
  • Owners and potential owners of parrots need to be thoroughly educated by avian veterinarians and other knowledgeable sources about the parrots’ needs so they know what to expect and how to meet the birds’ requirements in captivity.
  • The high cognitive ability of parrots should be considered in their captive husbandry as a contributing factor to developing behaviour concerns. If you’re considering a parrot as a pet, you should be prepared to spend almost the same amount and quality of time with your bird as you would a highly interactive, bright, inquisitive pre-schooler.

FIVE MUST-HAVES FOR CARING FOR PARROTS

parrot

  1. THE CAGE
  • An appropriately sized cage that is cozy (draft-free) and located in a safe, low-stress but social area. Your bird’s cage should be big enough for her to spread her wings and flap vigorously without contacting anything. It is even better when they can fly in their cage. Remember that birds fly more horizontally, so consider this when you buy a cage.
  • It should have a variety of natural branch perches (not dowels) and contain several shreddable toys, for example, balsa wood, woven mat toys, paper-stuffed toys, nontoxic enrichment “goodie bags,” and organic hemp rope toys for chewing. A huge variety of organic, all-natural, chemical-free toys is critical, as parrots’ mouths are used as a third hand so, an ongoing supply of safe, nontoxic instantly shreddable, as well as a few resilient or reusable chew toys, are a must.
  • He recommends replacing the disposable chews at least daily and rotating the more resilient toys at least twice a week, ideally daily. Always introduce new toys slowly, attaching them to the outside of the cage for a few days first, so your parrot can investigate at his own pace.
  • The cage should be cleaned daily with a nontoxic cleaner. His recommendation is diluted vinegar. The cage floor should be lined with newspaper that is discarded daily. All loose material (feathers, leftover feed, bird poop) should be carefully disposed of before disinfecting cage surfaces. Birds should be removed from the area during the disinfecting process to protect them from fumes.

parrot

  1. DIET – Feed a high-quality diet of species-appropriate fresh foods including fruits, vegetables, sprouted seeds, whole nuts, and sprouted grains. Organic, dye-free commercial pelleted food (not poor-quality sunflower seed mix, which is the equivalent of junk food for most exotic birds) can also be offered.
  2. BATHS – Parrots can get dusty, so regular bathing opportunities are important. Many parrots love baths; some will splash around in a tub of shallow water; others will join their owners in the shower and others enjoy a gentle spray from a plant mister. Use filtered water, free from heavy metals and contaminants, and consider adding a flower essence if your bird is stressed.
  3. MONEY – Beyond the initial expense of acquiring a parrot, owners should plan to spend a lot of money a month on wholesome fresh food, destructible toys, and other supplies. An emergency fund or pet medical aid is also crucial.
  4. TIME – Just because birds live in cages doesn’t mean they are easy pets to care for. You can’t just pop your parrot into his cage and ignore him except at feeding time. Be prepared to spend a great deal of time interacting with them. Potential owners of parrots should be ready, willing, and able to commit at least 4 hours per day to human-bird contact. This will disqualify many potential owners immediately.

Birds need chemical-free environments to be healthy. Consider the dangers or effects of:

  • Tap water
  • Home scenting products
  • Kitchen cookware
  • Fireplaces and smokers
  • Home cleaning products
  • Air purification

If you own a bird or want to learn, read more on various bird-related topics here.

Please think twice and again before committing and if you do…..ALWAYS ADOPT! We will fight not until cages are comfortable, but until they are empty!

REMEMBER THE AVIAN VET VISIT TO SECUNDA

It is in the best interests of your birds to be seen by an Avian vet as not all vets can treat birds correctly. Dr. Maryke will be visiting Secunda again on 17 September. She will be doing trims, vitamin injections, deworming, and surgical sexing of birds. Please WhatsApp Shy for more info and to book. 083 653 9755. Thank you VetCross Eendedam for hosting.

parrot

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: Animal 101 – The bulletin

Adoption Advice for New Pet Parents

Adoption

Adoption Advice for New Pet Parents

Adopting a pet can be one of the most rewarding decisions you’ll ever make. In addition to gaining a loyal friend who will bring endless joy and companionship, adopting from a shelter or rescue group means you are directly saving two lives: when you bring home a rescue pet you’re freeing up a space for another animal who needs a second chance at a happy life. You also support the fight against pet overpopulation. 

Caring for a companion animal goes far beyond providing food, water and shelter. It takes research and careful planning to bring the right pet into your home, and to make sure your lifestyle is the right one for your new pet.  But how do you know if it’s the right time for you to welcome a four-legged (or three-legged!) addition? If you are considering adopting a pet, take a look at these helpful adoption tips:

Get the whole family involved in the process
There’s an emotional connection that comes with selecting a pet – it may be the look on the pet’s face or the way he held out his paw, but it’s an emotional bond that usually begins when you first see or spend time with him. Choosing a pet is personal for most people, so it’s important to involve the whole family. A pet is a lifetime commitment so it’s also important to ensure that all your family members are on board with getting one.

Look into potential allergies
It is astonishing how many people are heartbroken that they have to return pets because they were unaware of their allergies. Be prepared beforehand and interact with cats or dogs to see if there could be an allergy issue.

Which pet is right for you?
Your personality and lifestyle, along with challenges such as space restrictions and amount of time spent at home, should be explored to determine what pet is right for your household. Ask shelter staff for guidance – they’re experts at making perfect matches! 

Understand the financial costs of a pet
Your personality and lifestyle, along with challenges such as space Calculate the cost of purchasing supplies and ongoing fees for your new pet such as food, treats, litter for cats, boarding costs, walking gear for dogs, yearly vet exams and vaccinations, as well as a contingency budget in case the pet becomes sick.

Make sure to research what is included with the adoption
Pets adopted from reputable rescue groups will come fully vetted for a small adoption fee. At TEARS Animal Rescue, we charge an adoption fee of R900 which includes initial vaccinations, sterilisation, deworming, tick and flea treatment, an ID tag and a microchip. It costs well over R2000 to get all that for the “free” kitten or puppy you found online.

Pets aren’t gifts
A pet can be the best gift in the world, and while surprises are great, giving a pet as a gift may be more of a surprise than someone is expecting – and it may not be appreciated. Don’t just give a pet as a gift to someone without first making sure they want a companion animal.

Some people might love animals but not have the time or the ability to care for one. If you want to give someone a pet, for Christmas or their birthday for instance, it’s best to offer paying the adoption fee so they can have the fun of picking – and being picked by – their new family member.

If you have young children, just accept that you’re the one who is going to be taking care of the pet
Children may promise to take full responsibility, and they’ll mean it with all their heart, but it’s just not going to happen, no matter how much we want it to. And constant battling with a child over the pet might build resentment. It’s important that children realise from an early age that a pet is a sentient being that requires gentle handling, proper feeding and a certain amount of clean up.

Children learn to love and respect all animals by having a pet in the family. Show them how it’s done and you’ll help your child become a better, kinder person.

Volunteer at an animal shelter
Through no fault of their own, so many rescued pets in shelters don’t know how to sell themselves to potential families and are sadly overlooked. Our best advice: join the shelter as a volunteer and spend time with the animals, getting to know them, taking them for walks or grooming them.

By spending more time at the shelter, you’re more likely to find the perfect pooch or kitty than doing a once-off tour around the shelter. And your time will be greatly rewarded with kitty cuddles and canine kisses from animals who need it most!

Adoption

Consider an adult or senior pet
While puppies and kittens are adorable, they require a lot of work, training and dedication so that they flourish into well-balanced adults. Consider adopting an older pet; there are so many young adult and senior pets in shelters who are looking for loving homes and they may adapt more easily to your home and be more conducive to your lifestyle.

Be open to suggestions: shelter staff know the animals in their care and can help you select the most suitable pet for your family and lifestyle.

Are you sure you’re ready to be a pet parent?
Owning a pet is a lifestyle and you’ll need to be able to dedicate time to exercising, socialising and going to training classes. When adopting, you are making a commitment to care for an animal for the rest of his life – that could mean 10 to 15 years for dogs and up to 20 years for cats.

Having a pet will impact future decisions like where you live and how often you travel and your home, garden and fence may require modifications. If you rent, you’ll need have to get your landlord’s permission. As you go through lifestyle changes such as moves, the birth of children and new jobs, your animal will remain a permanent part of your life. If circumstances change, will you still be able to care for your pet?

Unconditional love is waiting at an animal shelter near you! We really hope you’ll consider adopting your next dog or cat – the love they share is the greatest gift of all.

Click here to meet the adorable adoptables at TEARS Animal Rescue who are patiently waiting for their happy ever afters.

Source: TEARS Animal Rescue

Aspects to consider if you have an existing dog and are considering adoption

dog

Aspects to consider if you have an existing dog and are considering adoption

When you are adopting and have an existing dog, it really is helpful to ask yourself the questions below – this will give you a greater chance of a successful adoption. 

We need to bear in mind, that if the adoption does not work out, not only will you feel terrible about this, each and every time a dog is sent back to the shelter, there is more physiological damage and stress, and the chances of the dog being successful adopted in the future are reduced. 

Additionally, our responsibility is always to our existing dog, and he/she must be considered first and foremost. 

The following is not mentioning the costs and training involved, however, these are aspects you need to take into consideration as well. 

  • If your existing dog is NOT sociable with other dogs, then rather do not even attempt an adoption, especially if there is any aggression involved. You can always contact a qualified behaviourist to help your dog, however, a dog such as this can learn to cope with other dogs when out for walks, but the chances of it accepting another dog in the home are very low. 
  • Some dogs will be happy with other dogs when out for a walk, however will not accept another dog into their home – this is more relevant in some breeds rather than others.
  • If you have an existing dog which is of the fighting breeds, or a cross of same, these dogs do much better as only dogs – if you are not sure, then rather get the help of a qualified behaviourist to discuss the possible match. Here is a link to our Compatibility Chart which will give you more knowledge to make an educated decision.
  • If you are getting a dog because you feel your dog is lonely, do ensure that it is getting sufficient physical, mental and sociable stimulation first of all. If not, do not expect the dogs to entertain themselves – you could possible end up with ‘double trouble’.
  • If you are getting another dog due to one dog dying and the existing dog being lonely, rather work on helping it to cope and get over the grief, before considering another dog. Here is a link to an article to help a dog that is not coping after losing its friend.
  • If there are any behaviour problems occurring, even if not serious one’s, it is far better to resolve same before thinking about adopting, as dogs often mimic one another’s behaviour, and you could end up with two dogs exhibiting the unacceptable behaviour. A common problem that often occurs when a second dog is adopted is resource guarding – of food, toys and objects and food – contact a behaviourist to resolve first and foremost. This new knowledge will allow you to ensure that you can train the new dog to avoid problems where resource guarding is concerned as well.
  • Ensure that the dog to be adopted is both dog and people friendly to avoid problems.
  • Consider the sex of the dogs. Your ideal match is one female and one male. Two males can get on well together, however the breeds of each have to be taken into account. Your very worst match, and one to be avoided at all costs, is having 2 females. The chances of problems arising is very real, especially around the 8 – 24 month period.
  • Consider the exercise requirements of both dogs. You don’t want two high energy dogs together, neither do you want a couch potato and a very active dog. Consider also if you have both the time, and energy, to take 2 dogs for walks daily and also if you can control them.
  • Think about the grooming aspects – if you are already spending time grooming your existing dog often, then perhaps a breed that requires less daily brushing would be a better fit.
  • If the existing dog does have any behaviour concerns, even one as small as jumping up against people, you would have to do the work to change this behaviour. The majority of behaviour problems found in shelter dogs can be easily changed, however there is no magic wand to wave – you have to do the work involved, and there is always the possibility that your existing dog may mimic same.
  • Think also of the breed from a point of view of how easily they can be trained – some breed are much harder to train than other, and you need to make sure your dog skills are sufficient.
  • If you already have a young puppy, rather wait until it is about 6 to 7 months of age before bringing in another dog. This will allow you the time to really bond and train the behaviour you want – one dog is always easier to train than two at the same time. Additionally, if you do bring in another puppy close in age to your existing pup, they do tend to bond to one another more than to the owner. Additionally, one pup tends to become more confident and the other less so, and this can end up at extremes. 
    If your existing dog has any physical challenges, or is a Golden Oldie, do speak to your vet to get their opinion as to whether getting another dog is an option.

After you have chosen your new dog, do get your existing dog to meet same, and always on neutral territory – this reduces the possibility of any resource guarding in the home. In order to help you have a success when you do take the new dog home, here is a link to an article that gives you the step by step procedure to follow – Introducing and new dog to a resident dog

 

Pet Emergencies – What can I do?

Pet

Pet Emergencies – What can I do?

The following advice is not meant to replace the role of the veterinarian. However, for animals, we as the owners are generally the first responders to our pets in need. Being prepared for such unforeseen emergencies, will help ease your stress and hopefully help save your pets life.

The aim is to stabilise the pet, relieve pain if possible and provide safe transportation until you reach your vet.

Always remember, the safety of humans takes priority. You cannot help your pet if you put yourself or others in danger.

Stay Safe
Asses the environment and avoid danger or remove possibilities of further injuries.
Eg. if the animal is in the road, get it onto the side of the road immediately.

Animals in pain can be dangerous, even your own dog may want to bite due to being in shock and/or pain. If necessary, restrain the pet with a muzzle, towel or blanket (warm jacket etc) to prevent you being bitten or scratched.

If possible, transport a cat in a box to the vet.

Pet

During Car Accidents – Where you are able to assist
Remove the animal to the side of the road to a shady area, it may require you to drag them if they are large and unable to walk.

Check them to see if they are conscious and breathing (rise and fall of the chest, holding a hand or tissue in front of the nose). Check the eyes & pupils – If the eyes are open and staring with a dilated pupil, the animal will need CPR (IF NO obvious severe evisceration etc is seen).

Perform CPR if no sign of breathing – Remember ABC :  A – Airway /  B – Breathing / C- Circulation (Heart beat)

How to perform CPR in your pet.

Pet

A – Airway;
Ensure the airway is clear, remove any vomit, fluid, foreign body and pull the tongue forward.

B- Breathing;
Perform Nose-to-mouth breathing: Nose-to-mouth resuscitation is administered by first pulling the tongue forward so the tip is just through the teeth and closing the mouth.  Place your hands around the closed mouth sealing it as best you can.  Extend the neck to make a straight line from the nose to the tail and breathe into the animal’s nose.  Small dogs or cats need smaller breaths than large dogs.  After five breaths, re-assess the animal by feeling for a heartbeat and breathing.  If the animal still has a heartbeat but is not breathing, continue with resuscitation at 12 breaths a minute for small dogs and cats and 20 breaths for large dogs.  If the animal doesn’t have a heartbeat, start performing chest compressions

C- Circulation;
Check for a heart beat – Lay the dog on their right side, push the front elbow back to the chest. The spot where the elbow touches the chest is called the inter-costal space and marks where the heart is located. If you don’t see any movement in this area, place your hand over the same location and feel for a heartbeat. If no heartbeat, then start compressions.

Put both hands on the chest with straight arms, and perform cardiac compressions. For the number of compressions, the beat of “staying alive” from the Beegies is ideal.

Lay your hand over the heart (at the inter-costal space) and press firmly enough to compress the chest about one-third to one-half its usual depth. You should aim for 10 – 12 compressions over a five-second span. Repeat these steps at a one breath to 10 – 12 compressions ratio. Because you will be doing more than 100 compressions per minute, a new person should take over compressions after two minutes.

In very large dogs, if a third person is available, also compress the abdomen in large breeds. (If you’re gently compress the front part of the belly or squeeze the dog’s abdomen. Performing these chest compressions can help circulate blood back to the heart. However, it’s most important to focus on the rescue breathing and compressions. Abdominal compressions should be a secondary focus).

In deep chested dogs (eg Bull Dog, Boxer, Boerboel) perform compressions with the dog lying on its back instead of on its side.

Assess the dog
Check periodically to see if the dog has started breathing again – about every two minutes. If not, continue with the artificial respirations until help arrives or you are able to continue CPR while someone drives everyone to the vet.

Recovery Position
If the animal is breathing but still unconscious, lay it on its side with the head and neck slightly extended.  Fold a blanket or towels and place it under the shoulder but not the neck so that the chest is above the head.  This prevents fluids from the mouth going into the lungs.  Keep the pet warm with blankets and transport it as soon as possible to the veterinarian.

Wounds and Bleeding
Approach wounds as you would for a person. Wounds can be anything from a cut, punctures, scrapes or abrasions, to burn wounds.

If excessive bleeding – apply pressure above the wound (between the heart and the wound), cover the wound with a clean cloth or gauze swabs, and bandage until you can reach the vet. Do not remove the initial layers, (this may remove the clot that is forming and cause more bleeding).

Wounds with debri – gently trim excess hair around wound, rinse with running water / saline or flush with a syringe, apply silbecor / anti-septic cream, cover and bandage until you can reach the vet. Paw wounds can be soaked.

Penetration wounds – DO NOT remove any sticks / sharp objects penetrating the chest or abdomen – this may exacerbate internal problems. If necessary, apply dressings around the foreign objects and stabilize the pet and get to the vet as soon as possible.

Grazes and abrasions can be dealt with by trimming the fur around the area, cleaning with water or saline and apply a dressing making sure that it won’t stick to the wound.   

Shock
Knowing your animal is important to distinguish what is not “normal” and gauging how they are doing in a case of emergency.

What is shock? Shock is the body’s way of protecting itself. Recognizing symptoms of shock may save your animals life. There are different reasons for a shocked state, e.g blood loss, being septic due to severe infection, anaphylaxis, extreme pain to name a few obvious examples.

Symptoms will include: weakness (an animal is unable to stand/walk), pale gums (pale pink to white, or bright red to even purple), short shallow breaths, cold legs and paws or having seizures.

Examples that can lead to shock; Car accidents, falling off a height, severe infection (pyometra) or disease (diabetes), weather extremities, seizures, severe bleeding from wounds, burn wounds, knife stab wounds, gun shot wounds (including pellet guns), ruptured stomach ulcers, toxin ingestion for example.

In most cases, manage severe bleeding, keep the animal warm (wrap in a blanket) and try to keep them quiet, continue to talk calmy and gently to them and stroke them softly if they’ll allow. Do not offer food or water, alert the vet you are on the way and transport the animal there immediately.

Poisoning
Obvious signs of poisoning include drooling, vomiting, severe diarrhoea, twitching, tiredness, difficulty breathing and convulsions / seizures, collapsed pet.

Identify the toxin if possible and call your vet for immediate advice, have the following information at hand:

  • How much does your pet weigh?
  • What is the name of the toxin?
  • If the toxin is a medicine:
    • What is the strength?
    • What is the generic name?
    • Is it a special formulation (e.g., extended release)?
  • What is the active ingredient of the toxin?
  • How much do you think your pet ingested?
  • How much could your pet have ingested? (worst-case scenario)
  • How long ago (or what general time frame) did your pet ingest the toxin?
  • Is your pet showing any signs/symptoms?
  • If so, how long have you noticed the signs/symptoms?
  • How old is your pet?
  • Does your pet have any underlying health issues?
  • Is your pet currently on any medications?

It is vital to keep the pet quiet and warm and only act on the vet’s instructions as this will differ depending on the substance that was swallowed.

In the event that an animal has consumed something toxic, and you are aware of this in time, to get them to vomit (inducing emesis) before most of the absorption can take place is the best option. The golden window is within the first 30 minutes of ingestion, but even then, we can only hope for a maximum of 60% of the content to be expelled.

3% hydrogen peroxide has been recommended to use at home in the past, but the latest information has confirmed complications with oesophageal lesions and stomach ulceration, which is why it should be best avoided.

Emesis induction is contraindicated in patients that are symptomatic, have airway disease, have an altered mentation, have already been vomiting, or have ingested a corrosive/caustic agent.

Most common poisonings are due to garden chemicals, rat and snail bait, chocolate, paint or human medications in the home, consuming batteries.

At home remedy: You can attempt to get your dog to vomit by giving it a bolus of a “golf ball size” of non-exothermic washing powder (if you wet the washing power and hold it in your hand, and it does not become warm it is safe to use). If they do not vomit within 5 min, get them to the vet immediately.

Most poisonings will still require veterinary treatment as mentioned we can at best hope for only 40-60% of the toxin being expelled, but if you can prevent the major source of absorption, this can help reduce the long term effects.

If you are not sure if a product is toxic, you can always call your emergency vet for advice.
The American Animal Poisoning Control website and app can be helpful to refer to as well.

Choking
Choking is one of the most stressful emergencies one will experience. This occurs when an object blocks air from interring and leaving the lungs. The foreign object may even be lodged in the oesophagus. Physiological choking may occur due to laryngeal paralysis, anaphylaxis or heat stroke.

Symptoms include a very distressed animal, pawing at the mouth, severe respiratory distress (forceful breathing attempts), blue tongue or gums, gasping / choking sounds, excessive salivation and bulging, large eyes.

If the animal is in extreme distress, and no obvious foreign body can be identified, stay calm and bring that animal to vet as soon as possible.

Alternatively, one can try to remove the object from a choking dog’s windpipe, if it is conscious, open the mouth by grasping the upper jaw with one hand and the lower jaw with the other, tilting the head back slightly.  Pull the tongue to the side and remove the object if possible.  If this isn’t possible, stand behind the dog, put your arms under their belly just in front of the rear limbs and lift their hind legs high off the ground like a wheelbarrow.  Gently shake to see if the object will fall out.  This procedure can be repeated up to 4 times. If the foreign object cannot be dislodged or it is dangerous for you to attempt removing it, contact the vet for advice immediately.

Pet

Cats should be restrained in a towel first. Their mouth can be opened by gently pulling the head upwards and slightly back by placing the thumb and finger on either side of the jaw and the palm across the head. Use the other hand to lower the bottom jaw and remove the object.

See this video and image of the Heimlich manoeuvre in a pet.

Convulsions / Seizures / Fits
Seizures can be a symptom of a problem or a medical condition in your dog. If your dog shows this for the first time, a veterinarian must always be consulted. Causes for these can be due to poisoning, illness, infections and epilepsy.

What does a seizure look like? The animal will become distressed and restless. The first signs usually will be that of excessive drooling, lip smacking, moving into champing jaws / jaw clattering, staring eyes, urination, defecation, collapse, falling over and paddling.

IF you see this, do not approach the animal or try to “remove the tongue from the mouth”. Stay calm and start timing the seizure. Move objects away that may fall on the animal or hurt the animal, and tone done lights and noise (eg. the radio playing).

IF the seizure continues for longer than 5min, roll the animal on a towel or blanket and with the help of someone if it is a large dog, place into the car and take to the vet.

If the seizure is short acting, wait calmly until it is over, contact your vet and take it in for examination. Seizures generally only last for a few seconds, it will always feel longer. Convulsions or ‘fits’ can be quite traumatizing for a pet owner to witness.

Heat Stroke
Heat stroke is when the body’s core temperature rises above normal and due certain factors, they are not able to cool down. This starts a series of events in the body that may lead to complete organ failure and death. This is a very serious condition.

Common causes are from animals exercising in the heat of the day. From a pet being left in a car or area with no shade or ventilation. Brachycephalic dogs and cats are even more predisposed to this due to their restricted airways.

Symptoms are an animal panting excessively with increased breathing noises (from the throat), vomiting, drooling, distress, loss of coordination, collapse and acute death. The animal will also feel very warm by touch.

Should you suspect your pet maybe suffering from heat stroke, remove the animal from the hot environment, start cooling them down with cool to luke warm water. Place a fan on them or drive with the aircon on / windows open. Ice packs covered in a wet towel can be placed between the legs front (auxilla) and back (inguinal).

Transport the animal to the vet as soon as possible.

NEVER immerse the pet or use ice cold water over the body. It will only trap the core temperature due to vasoconstriction and make the heat stroke worse.

Once the pet is comfortable again offer cool water but only in small amounts.  Too much water taken in quickly may cause vomiting.

Bites and Stings
Although knowing what caused the bite or sting is helpful to the veterinarian, never put yourself at risk to try to kill or locate it.

Bee Stings
One of the most common stings that we see. Most bee stings are fortunately not a lethal problem, but may cause allergies.  Most will be stung around the mouth & face, sometimes paw. They can develop fascial swelling, urticaria (lumps and bumps everywhere) and worse case scenario, develop anaphylaxis.

In minor reactions, see if you can find the sting and remove with a sharp knife / bank card by scraping against the angle of sting. Do not struggle with fingers as it will “pump” more venom into the animal.

A cold compress can be applied to the area swelling up, and animal should be taken to the vet.

In the unfortunate event that the animals have been attacked by a swarm of bees, get them to the vet immediately. This is a very serious matter.

Scorpion Stings
Scorpion stings are extremely painful and maybe lethal. Symptoms will range from vocalizing due to unrelenting pain, excessive drooling, tremors, weakness, ataxia, collapse, paralysis and even death.

Anti-venom must be administered and generally the treatment of choice is an induced coma to manage the pain.

Snake Bites
As for snake bites, the treatment of choice is anti-venom administered by your emergency veterinarian.

Stay safe, remove the animal away from the culprit snake if possible and remain calm. Call your emergency vet while on the way. If possible, take a picture / identify the snake.

In South Africa we have 3 types of snake venom – Anti-coagulant (Boom slang), Neurotoxic (eg. Cobra’s) and Cytotoxic ( eg. Puff adder). Boom slang anti-venom must be obtained specifically and fortunately, for the rest we have multi-venom anti-venom vials available in South Africa.

Spider bites
Spider bites are mostly cytotoxic and can cause severe necrotic wounds.

What you can do on the way to vet with in these situations;

Stay calm, and if possible, identify the poisonous animal – take a picture with your phone.

In the case of limbs, initial treatment is to apply a pressure immobilisation bandage. This is done using a crepe or conforming bandage (or panty hose if a bandage is not available) over the bitten area and around the limb. Apply it firmly but not so tight that it stops the blood flow. Bandage down to the paw and then up as far as possible on the limb. A splint can be applied using a rolled-up newspaper or piece of wood with a second bandage. Do not remove the bandages, keep the animal as quiet as possible and transport him to the vet immediately.

Near Drowning
In the event that an animal is found in the pool – Immediately remove the animal, hang upside down to allow for excess fluid to drain from the lungs, neck and mouth.

If non-responsive, check for heart beat and breathing.
If a heartbeat is present start to perform CPR, with the heart beat only perform breathing until animal become responsive. Take to the vet as soon as possible.

Please note whether you have a salt or chlorine pool.

If no heart beat present, full on CPR is required.

CPR on dogs

First Aid for Pets – How to prepare for the unexpected

Source: TEARS Animal Rescue