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Give your valentine a custom doggy e-card

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doggy

Give your valentine a custom doggy e-card

Need a perfect Valentine’s Day gift? We’ve got your paws covered.

Sponsor one of our homeless dogs in your valentine’s name and we’ll send him/her a custom e-card.

How it works:

  • Pick a pet you wish to sponsor (see images below)
  • Choose a sponsorship option
  • Make your sponsorship donation
  • Send your proof of donation, name, valentine’s name, valentine’s email address and a message you wish to include to donations@mdzananda.co.za
  • We will make the e-card and send it to your love

Sponsorship options

  • R 40: Flea and tick treatment
  • R 70: Vaccination
  • R 100:  Food for a week
  • R 200:  Puppy / kitten’s 3 vital vaccinations & dewormers
  • R 500:  Caring for a shelter pet for one month
  • R 650:  Sterilisation
All our homeless dogs are up for adoption.
Make them your valentine forever by fostering or adopting.
doggy
Contact: admin@mdzananda.co.za or WhatsApp 064 985 2513  for enquiries.
For cats: please contact our partner Luna Cat Rescue on WhatsApp 082 390 1670 / info@lunacatrescue.co.za
 

Adoption is the only ethical option

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Adoption

Adoption is the only ethical option

What should you know about saving a life through ADOPTION!

South Africa is overflowing with unwanted dogs, cats, puppies, and kittens, even rabbits, birds, and other animals. It’s sad to think that most of these animals in shelters will never experience a loving home and the security of a family they deserve.  

The sad reality is that although we promote adoption, we can’t adopt our way out of this crisis.  Do you know 30 homes that want to adopt?  I don’t, and that is the number of animals that easily come into one shelter per month and there are thousands of shelters. People selfishly breed and abandon animals faster than we can save them. 

We understand that it seems easier to buy a pet, but buying a pet is part of the problem. The pet industry in South Africa is not regulated and pet shops do not promote responsible pet ownership (sterilizations, home checks, etc.). They make their profits by promoting impulse buying. I am not even talking about all the “free to good home” ones on social media.

This article is a reprint that was first published on 05/07/2013

WHAT IS ADOPTION? 

Many animals come in as strays found and other animals are dumped, abandoned, or surrendered by their owners. If these animals are not claimed by their owners within the pound period, the shelter has two options namely, euthanize or adoption. Adoption is when you give an animal from a registered and responsible rescue organization/shelter a second chance, as part of your family. You will pay an adoption fee and go through a process of responsible homing.

WHEN YOU ADOPT YOU CHANGE MORE THAN ONE LIFE!   

Here are a few of the many benefits of adopting a pet:

  • You not only save a life but will also make resources and space available for the next one to be rescued.
  • If you can do the math, you know you will save money by adopting!
  • Adopted pets for the most part are already “trained”. 
  • You also help to lighten the load of a shelter that rescues animals and make the rescuers go on for just one more day. 
  • By adopting from a reputable shelter, it also allows you to take a stand against pet stores, puppy mills, and breeders and you do your part to put a dent in the pet-for-profit trade.
  • You can also build a relationship with the shelter that can really come in handy!
  • There is no greater kindness you can offer a frightened, confused shelter pet than a place in your heart and home. Many adoptive parents can attest to the special bonds created after adoption. 

THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFORE ADOPTING 

  • Are you ready for a pet? 
  • Can you afford pet care in the long term? 
  • Have you researched their specific needs and can you meet these needs? 
  • Does the animal fit your family’s lifestyle? 
  • If you live in a townhouse complex, written approval from the body corporate, that pets are allowed, must be obtained.   
  • Municipal By-laws must be adhered to with regard to the allowed number of pets.  
  • You may never know their breed, medical history, or behavioural history. 
  • You will have to pet-proof your home beforehand. 
  • Get the necessary items for your car and for travel. 
  • You will still need to buy beds, blankets, toys, leashes, deworm every 3 months, vaccinate every year, and buy good food every month, this does not even include saving for an emergency!  
  • They need to be spayed/neutered and a form of identification added, which is usually included in the adoption. 
  • Social animals should not be the only animals in the house and most need to be around their own species. 
  • They might need some training and patience to build trust, more time to adjust, and might not get along with all people or animals. 
  • Choosing the right breed for your lifestyle is however especially important.
  • Never make a decision based only on a dog’s look, size, breed, etc. The energy level of that animal should fit with that of your family. 

Adoption

OUT-OF-TOWN ADOPTIONS

Adopting an animal from a shelter in another town is possible. Usually, a local animal rescue or SPCA in your town will do the home check. Out-of-town adoption however will cost more, and the travel stress can be a lot for the animal. If you change your mind, you can’t expect the shelter to cover the costs. So really think this through and commit 100% before you choose this option.

WHAT CAN YOU EXPECT DURING THE PROCESS OF ADOPTING A PET?

The process and policy might differ between organizations. The process usually includes an application form, meet & greet, home check, paying an adoption fee, signing an adoption contract, sterilization, and follow-up. Depending on availability for sterilization at the Veterinarian or home check schedules, this can be completed in as little as 3 or 4 days. 

Irresponsible homing is not rescue! Because there are far too many irresponsible organizations (yes in our area too) as well as scammers out there, we consider it to be a responsible adoption only when it includes the following:

  • The organization must be registered and have a clear adoption policy as well as transparency and accountability.
  • Must have a comprehensive adoption application.
  • Must require proof of address and a copy of the adopter’s ID.
  • Must do a home check in person. 
  • They must not breed or support breeding in any form. These are the biggest hypocrites “in” animal welfare.
  • May not allow adoption for someone else as this is highly irresponsible and no reputable and responsible organization will do this.
  • Must have an adoption contract that includes a sterilization policy and return policy. They should always take the animal back if the need arise.
  • Should do follow-up post-adoption.
  • Meet and greet with all the family members (humans and animals) is important.
  • We believe the adoption fee should at least include, sterilization, deworming, treatment for ticks and fleas, first vaccination, microchip, and ID collar.

Please note – If it is an individual who is “re-homing” their dogs or their friend’s dog, or giving animals away for free, or selling them, then it is not an adoption and they are part of the problem by abusing the term ‘adoption’ and fueling this massive overpopulation crisis. Selling animals on Facebook goes against their community standard and should be reported to Facebook and the group admins.

ABOUT ADOPTION FEES

If you think adoption fees are too expensive, then we will advise that you rather not get any pet.  If you do the math a responsible pet owner would do, then you will know that the adoption fee which includes sterilization and more, is relatively inexpensive compared to the cost of purchasing a pet, or even compared to getting a pet for free, and that is excluding the animal itself. 

EXAMPLE – Take a medium-sized female dog in Secunda and surrounding areas:

WHEN YOU BUY (Excluding cost for the animal itself.)

  • Sterilization easily up to R1500
  • Microchipping R375
  • Deworming R60
  • Vaccinations R400

TOTAL: R2335

WHEN YOU ADOPT

If all of the above are included in our area, it is around R1250 plus the fact that you saved a life…………which is priceless! That is a R1085 difference plus you just pick up the animal with all of it done already so saving on time and petrol.

Responsible pet owners will do all of the above for their animals and more. So, when you say adoption fees are too much, I would seriously question your math skills and sense of responsibility. If you can’t afford adoption fees, then I doubt you will be able to properly care for that animal, even if your heart is in the right place!

Adoption

HOME CHECKS 

This is one of the most important aspects when it comes to the credibility of responsible animal welfare organizations. As a prospective adopter, you do not have to be afraid of a home check!  You might learn some valuable information about being a pet owner or things to look for and so, you can help educate others to ipmrove the lives of animals! You can also build a relationship with a knowledgeable person which can come in handy in the future. Most organizations will give you time to make the necessary, reasonable changes and still adopt.

SOME HOME CHECK CONSIDERATIONS INCLUDE:

  • Access to basic needs like food, water, and shelter.
  • Fences, swimming pools, neighbour’s animals, and surrounding areas.
  • Inspection of the other animals in the home, their general condition as well as their behaviour toward their owners and other animals.
  • Children and their attitude towards the animals.

If the organization doesn’t include both a home check and sterilization then they are NOT A RESPONSIBLE ORGANIZATION and we consider them to be a pet shop. By supporting them you help fuel this massive overpopulation crisis.  No matter what they call it, and even if they are registered!

Organizations get blamed for being too strict when it comes to adoptions.  If the process is too ‘hard’ for you, the commitment to the animal for their life will be impossible for you.  You must remember that we are responsible for the life of a sentient being, not just an object you buy at the shop and can return or throw away when you are not happy. It is not just about a good home, but about the right placement for the animal, considering their needs and the availability of resources to meet those needs. 

One popular critique is not allowing adoptions when all the animals in the yard are not sterilized.  It is a standard practice among reputable rescues to require any existing animals to be sterilized, even if you adopt a dog and have a cat. It is counterintuitive to our mission as rescuers to allow puppies, kittens, or bunnies to be homed where there are unsterilized animals. We would not have this massive overpopulation crisis if people sterilized their pets. It is about responsible pet owners.

REMEMBER

  • It may take some time to gain the adopted pet’s trust.
  • After adoption they need time to adjust (3 months at least) and they might be scared at first or for extended periods.
  • The stress and diet change (which should be done correctly and be species-appropriate) can likely cause diarrhea, or maybe constipation.
  • Even if the bond is instant, you don’t know your pet yet, so take the necessary precautions around other people, children, and pets, and do not introduce them to everyone at once. You are their advocate.
  • Get some professional help from a qualified behaviourist (there is a difference between a trainer and a behaviourist) if there are any behaviour concerns.
  • Shelters will not knowingly give you a sick animal, but also contact them when in doubt.
  • Not being “purebred” can actually be beneficial.
  • It is crucial to set the “house rules” and the whole family needs to stick to them and be consistent, so as not to confuse the animals.

Adoption

Rescue is the best breed! We always advise you to go and meet the animals available at your local shelter.  Shelter pets are not broken, they were only failed by humans, but most people only realize this after they have volunteered at the shelters.  Adopting an adult pet can even be better than a puppy and you might just fall in love with one that you never thought of.

There are breed-specific shelters and shelters for birds, rats, bunnies, and other critters.  If you like a particular breed, there are many different ones up for adoption through breed-specific rescues (e.g., google “Poodle” rescue SA).   If you can’t find the pet you’re looking for locally, consider widening your search but keep in mind the stress for the animal if you adopt from out-of-town.

In a world where thousands of animals (about 2800 in SA alone) are humanely killed (PTS/Euthanized) EVERY DAY…… adoption is the only ethical option! Visit your nearest reputable shelter and make a difference today!  ADOPT DON’T SHOP!   

WHEN YOU KNOW BETTER, DO BETTER!

Source: The Bulletin

Guidelines on adopting a new cat or kitten

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Guidelines on adopting a new cat or kitten

  • Keep in mind the expense involved in introducing a pet to the household: food, vet fees if the cat gets ill or needs vaccinations, kennelling if you go on holiday, etc.
  • Make sure your house is safe and secure, especially if you want to adopt a kitten. Look at things that can be knocked over or things that could hurt a cat and adjust those.
  • Prepare a quiet place where your cat can feel secure while adjusting to its new home, such as a spare bedroom. Provide bowls for food and water, a place to sleep, a litter box, a scratch post and some toys
  • Use a secure carrier to take your cat home in and don’t let it out until it is in its safe room. It is all too easy for a frightened cat to escape and you will then probably never find it
  • Keep your cat in its quiet room for at least a few days (in the case of scared cats it may take longer) before gradually introducing it to the rest of the house. Do not get impatient or angry if it is scared – be gentle with it. Only once it is completely familiar with the house and has been with you for at least two weeks, let it go outside while you are present.
  • Keep it separate from any other cats/dogs in your household for about a week and then let them get to know each other while you are around. There may be hisses initially, but ignore them. The animals will eventually sort out their own status.
  • Be aware that your cat needs to be groomed regularly, especially if it has longish hair. Cats do not like and do not need to be bathed, but benefit from regular brushing.
  • Young children may unwittingly hurt or frighten your new pet. Teach them how to be gentle and caring. Never hit a cat.
  • Always pick your cat up with both hands – one to support the hind legs.

Source: Hermanus Animal Welfare

Why does the SPCA charge an adoption fee?

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SPCA

Why does the SPCA charge an adoption fee?

Adopting a pet from an animal shelter is one of the most rewarding decisions you can make. Apart from acquiring a new furry friend, you have the satisfaction of knowing you’ve saved their life and given them a second chance of a happy home.

Many people feel that offering to take on the responsibility of giving an unwanted animal a home, shelter and food should be enough. So it can come as quite a shock to discover that there’s a fee involved.

What you get for your money

Although we call it an ‘adoption’ fee it’s not, as you might think, a case of ‘selling’ animals to raise money for the SPCA. It’s actually the heavily subsided cost of ensuring that your new pet goes home with you in the best possible condition. The adoption fee covers the cost of:

  • A full veterinary check-up to make sure your new pet is fit and healthy.
  • All the necessary vaccinations to prevent deadly disease.
  • Deworming and flea treatment to make sure they’re free from parasites that would otherwise end up in your home or garden.
  • Sterilisation to prevent unwanted litters. This applies to both male and female animals, ensuring that your pet can neither produce a litter nor father one.
  • Microchipping – a permanent, non-invasive form of identification that can help reunite you with your pet should they get lost or stolen.
  • An ID disc and collar which provides immediate, visible identification.
  • Good nutrition – your new pet will be handed over to you in peak physical condition, having enjoyed plenty of nourishing food in the weeks and months leading up to their adoption.
  • In certain cases, your pet’s behaviour will have been assessed, and any potential problems pointed out to you so you know what to expect and how to deal with it.

SPCA

How does the adoption fee measure up against the cost of private vet fees?

The SPCA adoption fee is only a fraction of what you’d pay for the same services at a private vet. Vaccinations alone cost more than our fee. And that’s without counting the time and trouble of taking the animal to the vet yourself. Especially if you need to arrange transport.

On top of that, there’s the cost of having the animal spayed or neutered. Please read “5 compelling reasons to have your pets sterilised” to understand why it’s so important not to neglect this responsibility.

All in all, adopting a pet from the SPCA is a really affordable option. And when you think that your new pet will repay you with years of companionship and laughter, it’s well worth the initial investment.

No government funding

Contrary to what some people think, the SPCA is not a government-funded organisation. We don’t get free veterinary supplies or food to help us care for the thousands of stray and unwanted animals that are admitted to our facilities every month. Everything we need to provide loving care and shelter for the animals has to be paid for. And we rely heavily on donations from animal lovers to make our work possible.

Rather than begrudging a very fair charge – when you adopt a new pet from the SPCA, please consider bringing along a donation of pet food. Or make a financial contribution to help provide for all the other furry orphans still waiting for their forever homes.

If you have further questions or comments, please contact our Adoptions Team on 031 579 6500.

Source: Durban SPCA

First Impressions- Tips For Adopting/Fostering A Rescue Parrot

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First

First Impressions- Tips For Adopting/Fostering A Rescue Parrot

Introducing a feathered friend to your home can be most exciting. Bear in mind however, that like us, birds come with baggage, trauma triggers, and oftentimes undesirable behaviour. Having the grit to work with that bird, through the good and the bad, can make all the difference in changing its life for the better. Animal behaviourist, Lizelle Britz-Chapman, has a few tips for those who decide to foster or adopt a rescue bird.

“Accept the bad, hope for the best”

Doing so will ensure that you will not set yourself up for a failure. If you think about a bird that has been abused, for example, then you already know it will not be an easy task. However, you may be surprised. Some birds adapt faster than others, meaning that its rehabilitation may not be so challenging after all but do be prepared for potentially long journey.

Getting to know your bird

Birds are perceptive enough to hide what they are feeling. This is understandable, as if they express stress or anxiety in the wild, they make for easy prey. In that case, take what you observe with a pinch of salt. Your bird may appear relaxed, but this may not be the case. Give your parrot around 5 days to properly ascertain how it responds to you.

 
First
 

How to settle in your parrot

Before you bring your parrot home, ensure that you have everything set up. A week before the bird arrives, make sure that the cage is in place, if possible. Ensure that food and water are in place just before you place the bird inside. This means that you can avoid sticking your hands in the cage within the first 12 to 24 hours. Setting a precedent of respect for your bird’s space can make all the difference – especially if it has been abused or neglected in the past.

You do not need to ignore your bird, however. Talk to it, put on a radio or TV for some ambient noise that may soothe the parrot and allow it to adjust to the normal, if not softer, sounds of your home.

Toys

People are usually so excited to adopt their birds that they hang every toy they’ve bought up in the cage – and it’s the worst thing you can do, as it is extremely overwhelming. Have one or two toys that aren’t extremely bright in the cage to begin with. Getting a parrot used to engaging with toys is part of the rehabilitation process. Parrots should be able to entertain themselves and not always be dependent on human interaction.

Make sure that they have space to move around and up and down as they like. Depending on the bird that you have, different types of toys are more suitable. Larger birds will need larger wooden toys as their large beaks can destroy toys more easily. Smaller birds can enjoy toys with popsicle sticks, smaller wooden blocks, and paper for example. Foraging is important for all parrots and can be introduced slowly while they learn how to forage.

First

In the same way that there are different big cats, there are also different parrots. There are “old world parrots,” such as African Greys, Macaws and Amazons, and “new world parrots,” such as cockatoos and those that live in close proximity to humans. Old world parrots are typically scavenging birds. They enjoy being on the ground, gnawing on things, tearing them apart. Let this guide your decision to provide toys that they can chew such as wood or scavenger boxes. As your bird acclimatizes, you can begin to add more toys.

New school parrots are natural problem solvers. They require things that they can pick at, forage and solve.

A common mistake among fosters is overwhelming the parrot on the first day or week. We recommend leaving cleaning to once the bird has settled and is calm. Cleaning the cage on the first day can overwhelm the bird and lengthen the recovery process. This doesn’t apply to a situation where the cage is a so severe that it is a risk for the human or bird’s health.

Diet

Many rescue birds have been deprived of a healthy diet, and some forced to survive only on seeds or nuts. The first thing Lizelle wants people to remember is that it can take months to get a bird on a proper diet. There are also birds that will never be 100% converted. If you aware of a history of an only-seed diet, don’t pull out the seeds immediately, as the bird will not eat. In that case, seeds and a portion of pellets mixed together may do the trick. Additionally, you can add in a food that has a nice smell to it, such as pineapple or apple, something tangy. Sprouted seeds are also a healthier version of seeds that can help parrots’ transition to eating healthier foods. Other ideas to help transition a parrot include making a veggie mash and hiding the seeds in it and offering the vegetables in different ways (chopped fine or given in larger chunks, cooked or raw).

First

Give it time and be persistent. As the parrots becomes accustomed to being in your home, you can introduce more foods. Remember that variety is crucial. There are also many calming teas (such as chamomile) that you can add in the water if need be.

Biting

All bird owners share this burden. Biting is, to some degree, inevitable, no matter how friendly your bird is. Parrots bite for various reasons – such as fear, nervousness, or simply desiring more attention from you. Luckily, there are some techniques to avoid those nasty bites.

When it comes to this, it is important to know that your bird won’t bite without cause. An attention seeking bite is the worst kind, as it has developed into a routine and the parrot actually has to learn some manners.

Nervousness and fear can be worked with, using target training and positive reinforcement, during which the bird will build a bond with you.

In her experience, Lizelle advises those to deal with biting birds by placing them on the ground immediately after the incident. A bird on the ground is vulnerable, it will then understand that if it bites, it is not high up anymore, nor protected.

First

A parrot will give you a sign before it bites, either puffing up its feathers, diluting its pupils or even hissing. If you respond to a bird that is puffing itself up by walking away, you are communicating with it, and subsequently that bird will learn that it doesn’t need to bite you.

You can also work on your relationship by respecting its boundaries, especially if the bird is not happy to be handled, in the following ways:

  • Give the bird space
  • Give it treats through the bars
  • Talk to it

With a bird that is biting for attention, you may have to get someone in to come and start training the bird. There is no quick fix for that, and it may be a behaviour that might remain. You can have a perfectly trained bird, and it may still bite.

They are unpredictable, but you will learn how to read that bird as you go along.

Lizelle warns bird owners to not put birds back in their cages when they bite. If you do, they will learn that biting and the cage share a negative connection, in terms of space. Birds will be unwilling to return to their cages after some time. It needs to be their safe space.

Give them a few seconds after you put them on the floor, while keeping an eye on them, of course. See what they want to do, if they come to you, it means that they consider you a safe place.

Touch and handling

Pointing fingers are very intimidating for a bird. It is overwhelming. Similarly, hand games are a no-go if you want to keep your fingers intact. Rather get a ball with a bell, and roll it around with your bird. Your hands are there for handling, and to work with the bird.

First

People also need to be extremely careful about where they touch their bird. Never touch your bird on its backs or wings. When you scratch their back, stomachs, wings and tails, you are actually enticing a mating behaviour – which leads to bad behaviour, biting, and frustration. Touching the head and the feet is safe in terms of working on a bond with your bird.

Avoid trauma triggers

Avoid quick movements. In the wild, this means they are in danger. Don’t surprise your bird by walk up to it from behind, for example. Make sure they can see you coming, or talk to them before you reach them.

Pay attention to the story that comes with the bird. If your bird is aggressive towards men, or people with specific hair colours, you will need to keep this in mind to avoid inciting further trauma. You will need to pin point these triggers, which is why is the first few days are so crucial. Carefully observe their body language.

Be prepared for noise

Bird owners will know all about loud noises. Screaming can go on for hours. This is why the method works as an attention seeking behaviour. People will get frustrated, neighbours may complain, so in most cases, one will relent and go and fetch the bird.

The bird will, therefore, understand that it can manipulate you in this way. If you find this to be the case, the best tactic is to divert its attention. Give it something to do as spoken about by the topic of toys. Parrots love noises and colours. Putting on a children’s movie, or something with movement is a great way to entertain your parrot. Once your bird is calm, you can go and fetch it.

In the beginning, it is hard. Try to ignore the behaviour as best you can. Sometimes the bird may just be having a tantrum. People tend to forget that parrots have the mentality of toddlers, and do not have the capability to understand when they are in a time out, for example.

Therefore, you must communicate accordingly, and let go of the notion that you can reason with your bird in simple ways.

Written by: Fern Bamber

Source: Cheeky Beaks

Aspects to consider if you have an existing dog and are considering adoption

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dog

Aspects to consider if you have an existing dog and are considering adoption

When you are adopting and have an existing dog, it really is helpful to ask yourself the questions below – this will give you a greater chance of a successful adoption. 

We need to bear in mind, that if the adoption does not work out, not only will you feel terrible about this, each and every time a dog is sent back to the shelter, there is more physiological damage and stress, and the chances of the dog being successful adopted in the future are reduced. 

Additionally, our responsibility is always to our existing dog, and he/she must be considered first and foremost. 

The following is not mentioning the costs and training involved, however, these are aspects you need to take into consideration as well. 

  • If your existing dog is NOT sociable with other dogs, then rather do not even attempt an adoption, especially if there is any aggression involved. You can always contact a qualified behaviourist to help your dog, however, a dog such as this can learn to cope with other dogs when out for walks, but the chances of it accepting another dog in the home are very low. 
  • Some dogs will be happy with other dogs when out for a walk, however will not accept another dog into their home – this is more relevant in some breeds rather than others.
  • If you have an existing dog which is of the fighting breeds, or a cross of same, these dogs do much better as only dogs – if you are not sure, then rather get the help of a qualified behaviourist to discuss the possible match. Here is a link to our Compatibility Chart which will give you more knowledge to make an educated decision.
  • If you are getting a dog because you feel your dog is lonely, do ensure that it is getting sufficient physical, mental and sociable stimulation first of all. If not, do not expect the dogs to entertain themselves – you could possible end up with ‘double trouble’.
  • If you are getting another dog due to one dog dying and the existing dog being lonely, rather work on helping it to cope and get over the grief, before considering another dog. Here is a link to an article to help a dog that is not coping after losing its friend.
  • If there are any behaviour problems occurring, even if not serious one’s, it is far better to resolve same before thinking about adopting, as dogs often mimic one another’s behaviour, and you could end up with two dogs exhibiting the unacceptable behaviour. A common problem that often occurs when a second dog is adopted is resource guarding – of food, toys and objects and food – contact a behaviourist to resolve first and foremost. This new knowledge will allow you to ensure that you can train the new dog to avoid problems where resource guarding is concerned as well.
  • Ensure that the dog to be adopted is both dog and people friendly to avoid problems.
  • Consider the sex of the dogs. Your ideal match is one female and one male. Two males can get on well together, however the breeds of each have to be taken into account. Your very worst match, and one to be avoided at all costs, is having 2 females. The chances of problems arising is very real, especially around the 8 – 24 month period.
  • Consider the exercise requirements of both dogs. You don’t want two high energy dogs together, neither do you want a couch potato and a very active dog. Consider also if you have both the time, and energy, to take 2 dogs for walks daily and also if you can control them.
  • Think about the grooming aspects – if you are already spending time grooming your existing dog often, then perhaps a breed that requires less daily brushing would be a better fit.
  • If the existing dog does have any behaviour concerns, even one as small as jumping up against people, you would have to do the work to change this behaviour. The majority of behaviour problems found in shelter dogs can be easily changed, however there is no magic wand to wave – you have to do the work involved, and there is always the possibility that your existing dog may mimic same.
  • Think also of the breed from a point of view of how easily they can be trained – some breed are much harder to train than other, and you need to make sure your dog skills are sufficient.
  • If you already have a young puppy, rather wait until it is about 6 to 7 months of age before bringing in another dog. This will allow you the time to really bond and train the behaviour you want – one dog is always easier to train than two at the same time. Additionally, if you do bring in another puppy close in age to your existing pup, they do tend to bond to one another more than to the owner. Additionally, one pup tends to become more confident and the other less so, and this can end up at extremes. 
    If your existing dog has any physical challenges, or is a Golden Oldie, do speak to your vet to get their opinion as to whether getting another dog is an option.

After you have chosen your new dog, do get your existing dog to meet same, and always on neutral territory – this reduces the possibility of any resource guarding in the home. In order to help you have a success when you do take the new dog home, here is a link to an article that gives you the step by step procedure to follow – Introducing and new dog to a resident dog